WO2018041115A1 - 一种具有运动追随性的面料 - Google Patents

一种具有运动追随性的面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018041115A1
WO2018041115A1 PCT/CN2017/099560 CN2017099560W WO2018041115A1 WO 2018041115 A1 WO2018041115 A1 WO 2018041115A1 CN 2017099560 W CN2017099560 W CN 2017099560W WO 2018041115 A1 WO2018041115 A1 WO 2018041115A1
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Prior art keywords
fabric
yarn
elastic yarn
elastic
longitudinal direction
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PCT/CN2017/099560
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
程龙
施一娇
铃木英俊
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东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
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Priority claimed from CN201610793505.7A external-priority patent/CN107782615A/zh
Priority claimed from CN201610777976.9A external-priority patent/CN107794641A/zh
Application filed by 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 filed Critical 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
Priority to US16/328,901 priority Critical patent/US20190242039A1/en
Priority to CN201780042405.3A priority patent/CN109415856B/zh
Priority to EP17845417.9A priority patent/EP3508630B1/en
Priority to JP2019511743A priority patent/JP2019528385A/ja
Priority to KR1020197005473A priority patent/KR20190040217A/ko
Publication of WO2018041115A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018041115A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D04B21/207—Wearing apparel or garment blanks
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a fabric having motion followability, and more particularly to a warp knit fabric formed of a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn.
  • the elastic fabric formed of polyurethane fiber has good motion followability under low speed and constant speed conditions, but it will not recover in time after stretching under high speed and rapid acceleration conditions.
  • different weaves also have different binding forces on the fabric, and this binding force also affects the stretch performance of the fabric, which in turn affects the sport followability.
  • an elastic warp knitted fabric is disclosed in the Chinese patent document CN202323318U, which is formed by three combs, the table comb is woven into a loop by 20D nylon, and the latter two combs are respectively knitted by 40D, 70D spandex weft woven fabric, and the obtained fabric is Excellent flexibility and softness, and good wearing comfort.
  • Chinese Patent Publication No. CN205077227U discloses a novel warp-knitted body fabric which is woven by three combs, in particular, the front comb is made of chemical fiber filaments and weaved by a flat tissue; the middle comb is made of spandex for flattening and heavy menstruation. The tissue is alternately woven; the back comb is woven with spandex in the reverse direction, and the resulting fabric has different body shaping effects on different parts of the body.
  • an elastic warp knitted fabric is disclosed.
  • the elastic yarn is formed into a looped structure which is filled with flat, heavy or satin, and the non-elastic yarn is made of warp or 5-needle satin.
  • the meshing angle of the mesh is from 20 degrees to 70 degrees, and the obtained fabric has excellent warp and weft elongation balance and elongation recovery, and has a good fit, and is not easy to produce patterning when worn, and has excellent sports followability, which can contribute to improvement. Sports function.
  • the fabric with motion followability of the present invention is a warp knitted fabric composed of a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn, wherein an angle between an extension line of the elastic yarn and a longitudinal direction of the coil is 0° to 10°, The angle between the extension line of the inelastic yarn and the longitudinal direction of the coil is 5° to 85°.
  • the fabric with motion-following property of the present invention can effectively suppress the pressure rise caused by the elongation stress and the pressure drop caused by the delayed recovery, particularly in the conditions of high speed and rapid acceleration, and can maintain wearing comfort and prevent muscles. vibration. Further, the fabric of the present invention is less prone to problems such as cracking and tearing even when used for a long period of time, and has a long-lasting elastic effect.
  • the fabric of the present invention can be used to make garments suitable for athletes, etc., and is particularly suitable for making tight-fitting sportswear for top athletes to wear under high speed and rapid acceleration conditions.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic view showing the woven structure of an elastic yarn in the fabric of the present invention, wherein 1 represents the coil trunk of the elastic yarn, 2 represents the elongation line of the elastic yarn, and ⁇ represents the angle between the extension line of the elastic yarn and the wales. .
  • Figure 2 is a schematic view showing the knitting structure of the inelastic yarn in the fabric of the present invention, wherein 3 represents the coil trunk of the inelastic yarn, 4 represents the extension line of the inelastic yarn, and ⁇ represents the extension line and the longitudinal direction of the inelastic yarn. The angle between the two.
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing the structure of the tubular device of the present invention.
  • Figure 4 is a schematic view showing the structure of the cylindrical device during the test. 9 of them indicates the relaxed area of the tubular fabric.
  • the fabric with motion followability of the present invention is a warp knitted fabric composed of a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn, wherein an angle between an extension line of the elastic yarn and a longitudinal direction of the coil is 0° to 10°, The angle between the extension line of the inelastic yarn and the longitudinal direction of the coil is 5° to 85°.
  • the elastic yarn and the inelastic yarn in the fabric is a key factor determining the performance of the fabric.
  • it is characterized by the angle formed between the extension line of the coil and the longitudinal direction. The specific angle is observed by SEM or digital microscope.
  • the structure of the elastic yarn in the fabric is composed of two parts: a coil trunk and an extension line, wherein the trunk main portions are sequentially connected in the longitudinal direction, and the stretchability can be maximized in the longitudinal direction.
  • the stretchability of the extension line portion it is required that the stretchability of the extension line portion be contributed as much as possible in the longitudinal direction of the coil, that is, the projection amount of the extension line of the elastic yarn in the longitudinal direction of the coil.
  • the stretchability of the extension line is almost entirely contributed to the longitudinal direction of the coil; and when the angle is greater than 10°, the elastic yarn is applied.
  • the extension line of the line is orthogonally decomposed and has obvious components when projected in the horizontal direction. That is to say, the scalability of the extension line is not concentrated to the longitudinal direction, which is not conducive to improving the motion followability. Therefore, in order to achieve motion follow-up
  • the angle between the extension line of the elastic yarn and the wale direction is required to be 0 to 10, preferably 2 to 9 .
  • the structure of the inelastic yarn in the fabric is also composed of the coil trunk and the extension line.
  • the coil trunk of the inelastic yarn is also distributed in the longitudinal direction, that is, in the direction of telescopic movement, and the coil trunk of the inelastic yarn coincides with the coil trunk of the elastic yarn.
  • the inelastic yarn itself has almost no stretchability, so it can only provide a space for expansion by the shape of its coil structure to become an elastic yarn; on the other hand, since the strength of the inelastic yarn is higher than that of the elastic yarn,
  • the non-elastic yarn coil plays a certain "reinforcing" effect on the elastic yarn coil, which can increase the strength of the fabric.
  • the extension line of the inelastic yarn not only ensures the smooth connection between the coils, but also plays a certain role in limiting the stretchability of the elastic yarn, which will affect the movement followability of the fabric.
  • the extension line of the inelastic yarn must be evenly distributed, which requires that the extension of the inelastic yarn in the fabric must be consistent, that is, the extension of all inelastic yarns and the longitudinal The angles of the lines are the same.
  • the present invention requires an angle between the extension line of the inelastic yarn and the longitudinal direction. It is 5 to 85, preferably 7 to 65.
  • the elastic yarn mentioned in the present invention is not particularly limited and may be a polyurethane fiber (also known as spandex, abbreviated as PU), or a one-component polyester elastic fiber or a two-component side-by-side polyester elastic fiber. It can be a high-elastic false twist processing yarn.
  • the use of the elastic yarn not only suppresses the increase in the pressing force caused by the elongation stress during elongation, but also suppresses the pressure drop caused by the delayed recovery of the fabric recovery, which requires
  • the fabric obtains a large elongation, the corresponding tensile stress is small; at the same time, the fabric is required to have a good instantaneous recovery and a high recovery rate.
  • the fabric is required to maintain its original size and elasticity after repeated reciprocating stretching.
  • the elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably a polyurethane fiber which has low stress and high elongation property and which recovers promptly after elongation, has high recovery force retention ratio, and is excellent in durability, and more preferably is a soft elastic spandex.
  • the soft elastic spandex refers to a polyurethane fiber obtained by reacting a polyether diol having a side chain, a diisocyanate compound, and two or more kinds of diamine compounds, wherein the diamine compound contains ethylenediamine and The molar ratio of the branched aliphatic diamine compound having 3 to 5 carbon atoms is from 98:2 to 82:18.
  • spandex available on the market, such as those produced by INVISTA.
  • the soft elastic spandex used in the present invention has superior soft elastic properties and a soft elastic index of 0.75 to 1.
  • the soft elastic index refers to the ratio of the elongation stress at 100% elongation to the recovery stress at 100% elongation to 100%.
  • the soft elastic index indicates that the soft elastic spandex has a high recovery force retention rate, which is advantageous for improving the elastic recovery of the fabric and reducing the incidence of delayed recovery, thereby improving the performance of the fabric.
  • a fabric composed of 100% elastic yarn has the best sports followability, but such a fabric may have problems such as cracking and tearing due to insufficient strength.
  • the invention considers the use of non-elastic yarn, that is, "hard yarn" for reinforcement. The higher the content of non-elastic yarn, the strength and performance indexes such as cracking and tearing.
  • the content of the elastic yarn in the present invention is preferably 50 to 90% by weight.
  • the elastic yarn referred to in the present invention preferably has a distribution density of 30 to 200 w/inch.
  • the non-elastic yarn referred to in the present invention preferably has an elongation of 5 to 50%. Since the yarn is bent and looped, a certain amount of drafting is required. In the knitting process, if the elongation is less than 5%, the yarn is easily broken, and the knitting requirement may not be satisfied. When the elongation is more than 50%, the yarn is easily stretched during the weaving process, and there is a possibility that the yarn feeding is not smooth and the passability is poor.
  • the fiber raw material of the inelastic yarn satisfying the above elongation range may be a natural fiber such as cotton or wool, or may be a synthetic fiber such as viscose or modal, or a synthetic fiber such as nylon or polyester.
  • nylon and polyester are preferable.
  • the nylon here includes ordinary nylon and modified nylon (such as hygroscopic groups, etc.), and polyester includes ordinary polyester and modified polyester (such as having cationic dyeable groups).
  • the thickness of the yarn also affects the weight of the fabric. If the weight is too large, the fabric is too thick, and the pressure on the human body is relatively large, and the friction with the skin surface is relatively large, which is not conducive to obtaining a good sport following effect, and also affects wearing comfort. If the fabric weight is too small, the fabric is too light and thin, and the anti-transparent performance is not ideal enough to meet the general requirements. Therefore, it is necessary to make a reasonable choice of the fineness of the yarn used.
  • the inelastic yarn used in the present invention preferably has a fineness of 10 to 100 denier (abbreviated as D), more preferably 10 to 50 D; and the elastic yarn has a fineness of preferably 30 to 300 D, more preferably 70 to 140 D.
  • D denier
  • the inelastic yarn is selected as a relatively fine yarn as much as possible, and the elastic yarn is selected as a relatively thick yarn as much as possible. Therefore, it is preferable that the fineness of the elastic yarn is 1 to 10 times, more preferably 1 to 5 times, the fineness of the inelastic yarn.
  • the invention adopts a warp knitting structure for knitting, and the number of combs is preferably 2 or 3, the number of combs is too large, and the fabric is too thick, which may affect the acquisition of the following effect of the movement.
  • the fabric is divided into four layers from the front of the process to the opposite side of the process, which are the front combed coil surface, the rear combed coil surface, the rear combed extension surface, and the front comb extension.
  • the line surface, the structure in which the four layers are sleeved and connected to each other, has better structural compactness and stability than the single-face weft-knitted fabric or the woven fabric, and can ensure the stable performance of the following performance.
  • the elastic yarn is located in the back comb so that both the coil surface and the extension line surface are located in the inner layer to prevent it from being worn and to improve the durability.
  • the fabric is divided into six layers from the front of the process to the reverse side of the process, which are the front combed coil surface, the middle comb coil surface, the rear combed coil surface, and the rear comb extension.
  • the front and middle combs adopt a one-by-one threading method and a reverse yarn, so that the fabric can be prevented from being too thick on the one hand, and the fabric structure can be more stable on the other hand.
  • the present invention is produced by conventional scouring and dyeing finishing of the knitted fabric obtained by knitting, and the specific processing conditions are not particularly limited.
  • water-absorbing soft resin can be considered.
  • the water-absorbent soft resin refers to a resin finishing agent having a hydrophilic group and having a lubricating effect, and may be directly used as a commercially available product, or may be synthesized according to a technique known in the art, and the amount thereof is adjusted according to the fiber component of the fabric, preferably 5 to 30 g/L, more preferably 10 to 20 g/L.
  • the elastic fabric is made into a cylindrical shape having a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 5 cm, and the reciprocating motion is simulated under the condition of 50% elongation and 3 times/sec stretching, and it is found that the movement is delayed due to the movement.
  • the tubular fabric is deformed into the inner recess, and the deformed tubular edge of the fabric forms a closed area with the vertical position, that is, the deformed area generated by the delayed recovery.
  • the relaxation area formed by the depression of the contour portion of the fabric in the present invention is preferably 2 cm 2 or less, and more preferably 1.5 cm 2 or less.
  • the garment pressure in the middle portion of the thigh is measured to be 1.5 to 2.0 kPa at rest, and the recovery stress of the fabric at the corresponding portion is 1.5 to 3.0 N.
  • the wearing comfort can be ensured, and the vibration of the thigh muscle can be effectively suppressed.
  • the tear strength of the fabric of the present invention is 9.8 N or more; under the JIS L 1096:2010 A test condition, the burst strength of the fabric of the present invention is measured as More than 290kPa.
  • the clothes made of the fabric are not easily torn during the multiple wearing, taking off and using, and are not easily broken.
  • 3 randomly select 12 coils at the top, bottom, left and right positions of the sample, 3 coils at each position, and measure the coil extension and reference of different positions (elastic yarn or inelastic yarn) by the protractor.
  • the angle between the lines (or parallel lines of the reference line), the average value is the angle between the extension line (of the elastic yarn or the inelastic yarn) and the longitudinal direction of the coil.
  • Test equipment Demesia type repeated fatigue testing machine DC-210 type (made by Daiei Scientific Seiki Co., Ltd.)
  • Tube-like and mounting of the sample cloth The pre-treated sample cloth is bonded and fixed in a longitudinal direction by a tape or the like to form a cylindrical shape.
  • a cylindrical test tool having an effective diameter of 10 cm and a height effective size of 5 cm was obtained. Then install it as a whole on the repeated fatigue testing machine.
  • the fabric should be smooth and free from slack, and there should be no accidental stretching, that is, the fabric should not be tensioned, so as not to affect the later test results. ;
  • test set the maximum elongation of the fabric is 50%, the test process is specifically low speed (1 time / second) ⁇ medium speed (2 times / second) ⁇ high speed (3 times / second) ⁇ medium speed (2 times / Second) ⁇ low speed (1 time / sec), and tested for 1 minute at each telescopic speed.
  • the entire test process uses high-speed cameras for shooting and recording.
  • the high-speed camera used here refers to a camera with a frame rate of 100 to 1000 fps.
  • the slack area generated under high speed (3 times/second) is an evaluation index of the sport followability of the present invention.
  • the image taken when the above-mentioned fabric was returned to the initial position state after being subjected to the telescopic test for 1 minute under high speed (3 times/second) was selected and printed.
  • the area (in cm 2 ) of the above-described deformed portion was measured on a printing paper using an area meter or other image processing tool.
  • the relaxation area under low speed (1 time/second) and medium speed (2 times/second) can be measured according to the same test method, and the data measured under each speed condition can be compared and analyzed to evaluate the fabric.
  • Motion followability at various speeds Further, the relationship between the relaxed area and the corresponding stretching speed can be made according to the data, and the progress of the movement of the fabric can be examined and determined by observing the trend of the curve;
  • Test N number and deviation value 5 sample cloths were tested according to the above steps 1 to 5, and the average value was taken as the test result of the relaxation area of the present invention when the data was valid. Among them, whether the data is valid or not is determined by the coefficient of variation of the data.
  • Sample cloth horizontal 100mm ⁇ longitudinal 150mm, 6 pieces (3 pieces are used to test elongation and 3 pieces are used to test recovery stress);
  • step d Stretching at a tensile speed of 10 cm / min to 80% of the elongation obtained in step c, after standing for 1 minute, return to the original position at the same speed, and left for 3 minutes;
  • step d After repeating the operation of step d for 5 times, the data automatically recorded by the device is plotted as the relationship between the elongation stress and the elongation, and the recovery stress corresponding to the 25% elongation is read, according to the above Methods Three samples were tested and averaged as the test results of the recovery stress of the present invention.
  • the test was carried out in accordance with the Japanese Industrial Standard JISL1096:2010D method. The larger the value, the higher the tear strength of the fabric and the less likely to tear.
  • test was carried out in accordance with Japanese Industrial Standard JIS L1096:2010 A.
  • Refining caustic soda 2g / L, scouring agent 2g / L, 95 ° C ⁇ 20min, bath ratio 1:20; dyeing: 95 ° C ⁇ 30min, reduction cleaning: 80 ° C ⁇ 20min.
  • scouring caustic soda 2g / L, scouring agent 2g / L, 95 ° C ⁇ 20min, bath ratio 1:20; dyeing: 120 ° C ⁇ 60min, reduction cleaning: 80 ° C ⁇ 20min.
  • the 280D soft elastic spandex bare wire (manufactured by TORAY OPELONTEX Co., Ltd.) was used as the back carding yarn, and the woven fabric of the present invention was the same as in Example 2, and the fabric of the present invention was obtained.
  • the fabric of the present invention was obtained by weaving on a HKS4 high-speed tricot warp knitting machine (machine number E32, machine width 136 inches), and the rest was the same as in Example 1. See Table 1 for details.
  • a 140D soft elastic spandex bare wire (manufactured by TORAY OPELONTEX Co., Ltd.) was used as the back carding yarn, and the rest of the same as in Example 2, the fabric of the present invention was obtained, as shown in Table 1.
  • the fabric of the present invention was obtained by weaving on an RSE4 raschel warp knitting machine (machine No. E28, machine width 136 inches), and the rest was the same as in Example 1. See Table 1 for details.
  • the fabric was woven on an RSE4 raschel warp knitting machine (machine number E32, machine width 136 inches), and the rest was the same as in Example 5 to obtain a fabric. See Table 1 for details.
  • the fabric was woven on a HKS4 high-speed tricot warp knitting machine (machine No. E28, machine width 136 inches), and the rest was the same as in Example 4 to obtain a fabric. See Table 1 for details.
  • 40D-34f-nylon FDY was selected as the front carding yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber Co., Ltd.), 100D ordinary spandex bare wire (manufactured by Huafeng Company) as the back carding yarn, and the front comb was spanned by 2 stitches and the back comb was spanned.
  • the fabric was obtained by weaving a 2-needle flat/warp flat structure, and the rest was the same as in Example 1, and the fabric was obtained. See Table 1 for details.
  • Example 3 the fabric having a spandex distribution density of 28 w/inch has a smaller relaxation area and a more sporty follow-up than a fabric having a spandex distribution density of 74 w/inch. Excellent.
  • Example 4 In Example 4 and Example 6, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the non-elastic yarn (nylon) extending line and the longitudinal direction have an angle of 14° between the fabric and the inelastic yarn (nylon) extension line and the longitudinal direction. Compared with the fabric with an angle of 7°, the former has a small slack area and is more excellent in sport followability.
  • Comparative Example 2 and Example 4 show that under the same conditions, the angle between the extension line of the nylon yarn and the longitudinal direction is 4° (less than 5°), and the stretch line and the longitudinal direction of the nylon yarn. Compared with fabrics with an angle of 14°, the former has a much larger slack area and a lower sport followability.
  • Example 3 Comparing Example 3 with Example 1, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the angle between the spandex extension line and the longitudinal direction is 12° (over 10°) and the angle between the nylon yarn extension line and the longitudinal direction is 4°. (The fabric is less than 5°), and the angle between the spandex extension line and the longitudinal direction is 9° and the angle between the nylon extension line and the longitudinal direction is 14°.
  • the former has a much larger relaxation area and the movement follows. Poor sex.

Abstract

一种具有运动追随性的面料，该面料是由非弹性纱线和弹性纱线构成的经编物，其中弹性纱线的延展线（2）与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角（α）为0 。～10 。，非弹性纱线的延展线（4）与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角（β）为5 。～85 。。特别是在高速伸缩运动条件下，对伸长应力造成的着压上升以及延迟回复造成的着压低下能够有效抑制，并且能够维持穿着舒适性和防止肌肉振动。

Description

一种具有运动追随性的面料 技术领域
本发明涉及一种具有运动追随性的面料,具体涉及一种由非弹性纱线和弹性纱线形成的经编针织物。
背景技术
由聚氨酯纤维形成的弹性面料，在低速且定速的条件下具有较好的运动追随性，但在高速和急加速条件下会出现拉伸后回复不及时的现象。而且，不同的编织组织也会对面料产生不同的约束力，这种约束力也会影响到面料的伸缩性能的发挥，进而影响到运动追随性。
目前，市面上的大部分经编弹性面料，往往只适合低速且定速条件下的运动。如中国专利文献CN202323318U中公开了一种弹性经编针织面料，采用三把梳编织形成，表梳采用20D锦纶编织成圈，后两把梳分别采用40D、70D氨纶衬纬组织编织，所得面料的弹性及柔软性较为优越，穿着舒适性佳。
又如，中国专利文献CN205077227U中公开了一种新型经编塑身面料，利用三把梳编织而成，具体为前梳采用化纤长丝经平组织编织；中梳采用氨纶以经平组织和重经组织交替编织；后梳采用氨纶以反向经平组织编织，所得面料对身体的不同部位具有不同的塑身效果。
再如，中国专利文献CN102648313A中公开了一种弹性经编织物，弹性纱线采用满穿经平、重经或经缎等成圈组织；非弹性纱线采用经绒或5针经缎组织，且其网眼倾斜角度为20度～70度，所得面料具有优异的经纬向伸长平衡性以及伸长回复性，合身感良好，穿着时不易产生花纹走样，运动追随性优异，能够有助于提高运动功能。
众所周知，顶尖技术的运动员在运动过程中，会出现高速、急变速的运动状态，然而，这些文献中均没有对弹性面料在高速和急加速条件下的运动追随性提出相关的解决方案。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种具有优异的运动追随性的弹性面料，特别适合进行高速和急加速状态的运动。
本发明的技术解决方案是:
本发明的具有运动追随性的面料，为由非弹性纱线和弹性纱线构成的经编物，其中弹性纱线的延展线与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角为0°～10°，非弹性纱线的延展线与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角为5°～85°。
本发明的具有运动追随性的面料，特别是在高速和急加速运动条件下，可以有效抑制伸长应力造成的着压上升，以及延迟回复造成的着压下降，能够维持穿着舒适性和防止肌肉振动。另外，本发明的面料即便长期使用也不易发生破裂、撕裂等问题，而且具有持久的弹性效果。本发明的面料可用于制作适合运动员的服装等，特别适合用于制作面向顶尖运动员在高速和急加速运动条件下穿着使用的紧身竞技服。
附图说明
图1是本发明面料中弹性纱线的编织结构示意图，其中1表示弹性纱线的线圈主干，2表示弹性纱线的延展线，α表示弹性纱线的延展线与纵行之间的夹角。
图2是本发明面料中非弹性纱线的编织结构示意图，其中3表示非弹性纱线的线圈主干，4表示非弹性纱线的延展线，β表示非弹性纱线的延展线与纵行之间的夹角。
图3是本发明的筒状器具的结构示意图。其中5表示筒状面料；6表示环状内框；7表示环状外框；8表示固定螺丝。
图4是测试过程中的筒状器具的结构示意图。其中9表示筒状面料的松弛面积。
具体实施方式
本发明的具有运动追随性的面料，为由非弹性纱线和弹性纱线构成的经编物，其中弹性纱线的延展线与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角为0°～10°，非弹性纱线的延展线与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角为5°～85°。
考虑到弹性纱线和非弹性纱线在面料中的具体结构特征，是决定面料的运动追随性能的关键因素。对于前记具体结构特征，在本发明中是通过线圈延展线与纵向之间所形成的夹角角度来表征的。具体角度大小通过SEM电镜或者数码显微镜观察得出。
弹性纱线在面料中的结构由线圈主干和延展线两部分构成，其中线圈主干部分沿纵向依次连接，其伸缩性在纵行方向上可以发挥到最大。为了使延展线部分的伸缩性发挥到最佳状态，就要求延展线部分的伸缩性要尽可能全部贡献在线圈纵行方向，也就是说弹性纱线的延展线在线圈纵行方向上的投影量越大越好，即 延展线与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角越小越好，最小趋于0°时，延展线的伸缩性几乎全部贡献在线圈纵行方向；而当夹角大于10°时，对弹性纱线的延展线进行正交分解，在横列方向投影时有明显的分量，也就是说延展线的伸缩性并未能集中发挥到纵行方向，不利于提高运动追随性，因此，为了实现运动追随性效果的最大化，本发明中要求弹性纱线的延展线与纵行方向之间的夹角为0°～10°，优选2°～9°。
非弹性纱线在面料中的结构同样也是由线圈主干和延展线两部分构成。非弹性纱线的线圈主干同样分布在纵行方向，即伸缩运动方向，非弹性纱线的线圈主干与弹性纱线的线圈主干重合。一方面，非弹性纱线自身几乎没有伸缩性可言，所以只能通过其线圈结构的形变为弹性纱线提供伸缩空间；另一方面，由于非弹性纱线的强力要高于弹性纱线，非弹性纱线线圈对弹性纱线线圈起到一定的“加固”作用，可提高面料的强度。
非弹性纱线的延展线，除了可以保证线圈之间相互连接顺利成布之外，还会对弹性纱线的伸缩性起到一定的限制作用，即会影响到面料的运动追随性。对面料整体而言，其运动追随性、强度等性能必须均匀分布，这就要求非弹性纱线的延展线在面料中的结构必须是一致的，即所有非弹性纱线的延展线与线圈纵行所呈角度是一致的。当非弹性纱线的延展线与线圈纵行之间的夹角小于5°时，延展线分布偏向于线圈纵行方向，横向线圈之间的联系相对较少，难以保证顺利编织成布；当非弹性纱线延展线与纵行方向之间的夹角为86°～90°时，非弹性纱线的延展线基本与线圈纵行垂直，对于与伸缩运动方向平行的弹性纱线而言，其性能的发挥受到了极大的制约，不利于运动追随性能的达成，因此，为了实现运动追随性的最大化，本发明中要求非弹性纱线的延展线与纵行方向之间的夹角为5°～85°，优选7°～65°。
本发明中所提及的弹性纱线没有特别限定，可以是聚氨酯纤维(又称氨纶，简称PU)，也可以是单组分聚酯系弹性纤维或者双组分并列型聚酯弹性纤维，还可以是高弹假捻加工纱等。从运动追随性面料设计的初衷考虑，希望通过弹性纱线的使用，不但能够抑制伸长时伸长应力造成的着压上升，而且能够抑制面料回复时延迟回复造成的着压下降，这就要求面料在获得较大的伸长量时，对应的拉伸应力要小；同时要求面料要具有较好的瞬间回复性和较高的回复力保持率。此外，从耐穿性方面考虑，要求面料经多次往复伸缩后，仍能保持原有的尺寸和弹 性。因此，本发明所用弹性纤维优选具有低应力高伸长特性且伸长后回复及时、回复力保持率高、耐久性好的聚氨酯纤维，更优选为柔软弹性氨纶。所谓柔软弹性氨纶，是指聚氨酯纤维为由带有侧链的聚醚二醇、二异氰酸酯化合物与两种以上二胺化合物进行反应后得到的聚氨酯纤维，其中二胺化合物中含有的乙二胺与碳原子数3～5的分支状脂肪族二胺化合物的摩尔比为98：2～82：18。市场上现有的氨纶种类较多，例如英威达公司生产的
Figure PCTCN2017099560-appb-000001
氨纶、晓星公司推出的
Figure PCTCN2017099560-appb-000002
氨纶、华峰氨纶公司生产的千禧氨纶等。与上述氨纶相比，本发明所用柔软弹性氨纶具有优越的柔软弹性性能，其柔软弹性指数为0.75～1。柔软弹性指数是指100％伸长时的伸长应力与伸长到300％后回复到100％时的回复应力的比值。柔软弹性指数表明了柔软弹性氨纶具有较高的回复力保持率，有利于提升面料的弹性回复性，减少延迟回复现象的发生率，从而提高面料的运动追随性能。
本发明中，弹性纱线的含量越高，弹性纱线发挥的效果越充分、显著，面料的运动追随性也就越好。理论上来说，100％弹性纱线构成的面料，其运动追随性是最好的，但是这样的面料有可能会因强度不够，容易产生破裂、撕裂等问题。为确保面料破裂、撕裂等强度性能达标，本发明中考虑采用非弹性纱线即“硬纱”进行补强，非弹性纱线的含量越高，其破裂、撕裂等强度性能指标也就越高，但相对而言，弹性纱线的含量也就越低，非弹性纱线对弹性纱线性能的发挥就越容易产生抑制作用，有可能得不到较好的运动追随效果，这就需要在运动追随性和强度性能之间寻求平衡点，在保证强度的前提下，实现运动追随性效果的最大化，因此，本发明中弹性纱线的含量优选为50～90重量％。
考虑到弹性纱线在面料中分布密度过小的话，面料的伸缩应力也就会过小，拉伸过程中，克服伸缩应力所做的功也就相对变小，虽然变得容易拉伸，但也存在着压不足的问题，对肌肉振动的抑制效果变差的趋势，并且回复应力变小，高速和急加速下的及时回复性能也存在变差的趋势。反之，弹性纱线的分布密度过大的话，面料的伸缩应力、回复应力也就过大，虽然在高速和急速下的及时回复性有显著的提升，但拉伸过程中，克服伸缩应力做的功也就相对变大，有可能出现不易拉伸的现象，相应地着压过大的话对人体造成的压迫感就会过强，穿着舒适性有变差的趋势。因此，本发明所提及的弹性纱线的分布密度优选为30～200w/inch。
本发明中所提及的非弹性纱线，优选具有5～50％的伸长率。由于纱线弯曲、成圈需要一定的牵伸量，在编织过程中，伸长率小于5％的话，纱线容易断，有可能满足不了编织要求。而伸长率大于50％的话，在编织过程中，纱线容易被过牵伸，有可能出现送纱不顺利，编成通过性较差的现象。满足上述伸长率范围的非弹性纱线的纤维原料可以是棉、毛等天然纤维，也可以是粘胶、莫代尔等人造纤维，还可以是尼龙、涤纶等合成纤维。从编织的高效性、成本等方面考虑，优选尼龙、涤纶等化纤长丝。这里的尼龙包括普通尼龙和改性尼龙(如具有吸湿性基团等)，涤纶则包括普通涤纶和改性涤纶(如具有阳离子可染基团等)。
纱线的粗细除了对非弹性纱线和弹性纱线的含量有影响外，还会影响到面料的克重。如果克重过大，面料过于厚实，对于人体的服装压较大、与皮肤表面的摩擦力等也相对较大，不利于得到较好的运动追随效果，另外，也会影响到穿着舒适性。如果面料克重过小，面料过于轻薄，防透等性能不够理想，满足不了一般服用要求。因此，需要对所用纱线的纤度进行合理的选择。本发明所用非弹性纱线的纤度优选10～100旦尼尔(简称D)，更优选10～50D；弹性纱线的纤度优选30～300D，更优选70～140D。从面料克重等方面考虑，非弹性纱线尽可能选择相对较细的纱线，弹性纱线尽可能选择相对较粗的纱线。因此，优选弹性纱线的纤度是非弹性纱线纤度的1～10倍，进一步优选为1～5倍。
本发明采用经编组织进行编织，梳栉数优选2把或3把，梳栉数过多，面料过于厚重，有可能会影响到运动追随效果的获得。以2把梳编织形成的面料为例，面料从工艺正面到工艺反面共分4个层次结构，分别是前梳的线圈面、后梳的线圈面、后梳的延展线面、前梳的延展线面，这种4层相互串套、连接形成的结构，与单面纬编织物或者机织物相比，具有较好的结构致密性和稳定性，能够保证运动追随性能的稳定发挥。在编成时，优选弹性纱线位于后梳，使其线圈面和延展线面均位于内层，防止其被磨损，提高耐穿性。再以3把梳编织形成的面料为例，面料从工艺正面到工艺反面共分6个层次结构，分别是前梳的线圈面、中梳的线圈面、后梳的线圈面、后梳的延展线面、中梳的延展线面、前梳的延展线面。对于3把梳编织形成的面料，优选前梳和中梳采用1穿1空的穿纱方式且反向垫纱，这样一方面可以防止面料过厚，另一方面也能保证面料结构更加稳定。
本发明由对编织得到的针织坯布进行常规的精练、染色后整理加工制得，具体的加工条件没有特别的限制。其中后整理加工时，可考虑采用吸水柔软树脂， 以进一步赋予面料柔软舒适的手感和良好的吸水性能。这里的吸水柔软树脂是指带有亲水基团且具有润滑功效的树脂整理剂，可直接使用市售品，也可按照本领域的公知技术合成，其用量根据面料纤维成分进行调节，优选为5～30g/L，进一步优选为10～20g/L。
考虑到在实际穿着时，往复运动过程中面料会发生延迟回复现象。为了还原这一现象，本发明中将弹性面料制成直径10cm、高度5cm的筒状，在50％伸长范围内、3回/秒伸缩条件下模拟往复运动，发现在运动过程中由于延迟回复，筒状面料向内部凹陷变形，而变形后的面料筒状边缘与竖直位置构成一封闭的面积，即为延迟回复产生的形变面积。为了获得优越的运动追随性效果，本发明中面料轮廓部位凹陷形成的松弛面积优选在2cm2以下，进一步优选在1.5cm2以下。
优选，在穿着由本发明面料制得的服装时，测得静止状态下大腿中间部位衣服压为1.5～2.0kPa，相应部位的面料的回复应力为1.5～3.0N。在上述范围内可以保证穿着的舒适性，并且能够有效抑制大腿肌肉的振动。
优选，在JIS L 1096：2010 D法测试条件下，测得本发明面料的撕裂强力为9.8N以上；在JIS L 1096：2010 A法测试条件下，测得本发明面料的胀破强度为290kPa以上。在上述范围内，可以保证由该面料制成的衣服在多次穿、脱及使用过程中，不易撕坏，也不易发生破裂。
下面通过实施例及比较例来更详尽地说明本发明。其中实施例所涉及的性能指标由以下方法测得。
(1)延展线与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角
①剪取150mm×150mm大小的样品，利用SEM电镜或数码显微镜在放大20倍的倍率下对样品进行观察；
②在任一纵行上选取两个(弹性纱线或者非弹性纱线的)线圈，以两者在纵向上间隔25～50个线圈为宜。在选定的两个线圈的线圈主干的最高点上分别作标记点，连接这两个标记点，所得到的直线即为线圈纵行方向的参考线，以该参考线作为测量线圈延展线角度的基准线；
③在样品的上、下、左、右四个位置上随机选择12个线圈，每个位置上3个线圈，利用量角器测量不同位置(弹性纱线或者非弹性纱线的)线圈延展线与基准线(或基准线平行线)之间的夹角大小，取平均值即为(弹性纱线或者非弹性纱线的)延展线与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角。
(2)松弛面积
意义：面料在特定的速度和伸长条件下进行往复伸缩运动过程中，因延迟回复发生形变部分的面积大小。该数值越小，表示面料的运动追随性越好。具体方法如下：
测试设备：德墨西亚式反复疲劳试验机DC-210型(大荣科学精器制作所制)
①取样：在面料的任意部位，横向量取350mm长度作标记线、纵向量取120mm长度作标记线，沿标记线进行裁剪，得到长350mm×宽120mm的长方形片状样，按照同样的方法共取样5块；
②样布的前处理：将样布的上下边部夹持到反复疲劳试验机的上下夹口上并进行固定，然后设定预伸长率80％，进行10回往复预伸缩处理，使得面料中屈曲的纱线得以伸直；
③样布的筒状化及安装：将经过前处理的样布沿长度方向利用胶带等粘结固定使其形成筒状。准备一对分别由内框和外框组合形成的环状固定器具，将筒状样布套在环状内框外侧，然后将环状外框套在筒状样布的外侧，用螺丝等固定牢固，得到直径有效尺寸为10cm、高度有效尺寸为5cm的筒状测试用具。再将其整体安装到反复疲劳试验机上，整个安装、固定过程中必须保证面料平整不发生松弛，另外也不能出现意外拉伸，即不能使面料处于张紧的状态，以免对后期测试结果造成影响；
④测试：设定面料的最大伸长率为50％，测试过程具体为低速(1回/秒)→中速(2回/秒)→高速(3回/秒)→中速(2回/秒)→低速(1回/秒)，并且在各伸缩速度下分别测试1分钟。整个测试过程利用高速摄像机进行拍摄、录像，这里所用的高速相机是指帧率为100～1000fps的相机；
⑤定量：高速(3回/秒)条件下产生的松弛面积为本发明运动追随性的评价指标。将上述面料在高速(3回/秒)条件下经伸缩测试1分钟后回复到初始位置状态时所拍摄的图像挑选出来并打印。利用面积仪或其它图像处理工具在打印纸上测量出上述形变部分的面积(单位cm2)。另外，可以按照同样的测试方法分别测量出低速(1回/秒)、中速(2回/秒)条件下的松弛面积，对各速度条件下测得的数据进行比较、分析，评价面料在各速度条件下的运动追随性。更进一步地，可以根据这些数据作成松弛面积与对应伸缩速度的关系曲线，通过观察曲线变化趋势，考察和判定面料的运动追随性的优劣；
⑥测试N数及偏差值：5块样布均按照上述步骤①～⑤进行测试，在数据有效的情况下取其平均值，作为本发明的松弛面积的测试结果。其中，数据是否有效通过数据的变动系数来判定。一组数据的变动系数由标准偏差值与该组数据的平均值作商得到，即变动系数＝标准偏差值/平均值，一组测试数据的变动系数低于0.1，视为有效数据，否则重新进行测试。
(3)衣服压
意义：表示服装对人体的接触压。该数值越小，表示服装对人体部位的压力越小，越不利于对肌肉振动的抑制。利用日本AMI公司制的Pressure Converter-5S3037-5S衣服压测试仪器，将长500mm×宽100mm的样布的长度方向两端各预留50mm后缝制成筒状试样，缝制后筒状试样的周长为400mm,然后将筒状试样平整地套在假人大腿中间部位,使其圆周向伸长达到500mm(使其对应的着用伸长率达到25％)，测试3回，取平均值。
(4)回复应力
意义：表示面料经拉伸后，力图回复到初始位置时的应力大小。该数值越大，表示面料回复性越好。测试方法：
a.样布：横向100mm×纵向150mm，6块(其中3块用于测试伸长率，3块用于测试回复应力)；
b.使用装有自动记录装置的电子万能拉伸试验机(美特斯工业系统(中国)有限公司制、型号CMT6103)，设置夹幅2.54cm、夹距7.6cm,施以29mN(3g)初始负荷；
c.以拉伸速度10cm/min拉伸至10N，读取出此时对应的伸长量，进而求得其伸长率。以3块同方向样布测得的平均值作为最终的伸长率；
d.以拉伸速度10cm/min拉伸至步骤c中所得伸长率的80％，放置1分钟后，以同等速度返回到原来的位置，放置3分钟；
e.重复5回步骤d的操作后，设备自动记录的数据绘制成伸长应力与伸长率相对应的关系曲线，读取回复至25％伸长率时所对应的回复应力，按照上面的方法对3块样布进行测试，取平均值，作为本发明的回复应力的测试结果。
(5)撕裂强力
按照日本工业标准JISL1096：2010D法进行测试。该数值越大，表示面料撕裂强力越高，越不容易发生撕裂现象。
(6)胀破强度
按照日本工业标准JISL1096：2010 A法进行测试。该数值越大，表示面料撕裂强力越高，越不容易出现破裂现象。
实施例1
在RSE4拉舍尔经编机(机号E32，机宽136英寸)上，选用40D-34f-尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维有限公司制)作为前梳纱线，100D普通氨纶裸丝(华峰公司制)作为后梳纱线，前梳横跨2针、后梳横跨1针的经平/编链组织，且前后梳均为满穿进行编织制得坯布，再经精练、染色后整理加工制得本发明的面料，具体参见表1。
其中精练：烧碱2g/L，精练剂2g/L，95℃×20min，浴比1：20；染色：95℃×30min，还原清洗：80℃×20min。
实施例2
在HKS4高速特里科经编机(机号E32，机宽136英寸)上，选用20D-12f-阳离子可染涤纶FDY(简称CD-PET、东丽合成纤维有限公司制)作为前梳纱线，140D普通氨纶裸丝(晓星公司制)作为后梳纱线，前梳横跨1～2针、后梳横跨1针的缺垫/编链组织，且前后梳均为满穿进行编织制得坯布，再经精练、染色后整理加工制得本发明的面料，具体参见表1。
其中，精练：烧碱2g/L，精练剂2g/L，95℃×20min，浴比1：20；染色：120℃×60min，还原清洗：80℃×20min。
实施例3
选用280D柔软弹性氨纶裸丝(TORAY OPELONTEX公司制)作为后梳纱线、1穿1空配置，其余同实施例2，制得本发明的面料，具体参见表1。
实施例4
在HKS4高速特里科经编机(机号E32，机宽136英寸)上进行编织，其余同实施例1，制得本发明的面料，具体参见表1。
实施例5
选用140D柔软弹性氨纶裸丝(TORAY OPELONTEX公司制)作为后梳纱线，其余同实施例2，制得本发明的面料，具体参见表1。
实施例6
在RSE4拉舍尔经编机(机号E28，机宽136英寸)上进行编织，其余同实施例1，制得本发明的面料，具体参见表1。
比较例1
在RSE4拉舍尔经编机(机号E32，机宽136英寸)上进行编织，其余同实施例5，制得面料，具体参见表1。
比较例2
在HKS4高速特里科经编机(机号E28，机宽136英寸)上进行编织，其余同实施例4，制得面料，具体参见表1。
比较例3
选用40D-34f-尼龙FDY作为前梳纱线(东丽合成纤维有限公司制)，100D普通氨纶裸丝(华峰公司制)作为后梳纱线，前梳横跨2针、后梳横跨2针的经平/经平组织进行编织制得坯布，其余同实施例1，制得面料，具体参见表1。
表1
Figure PCTCN2017099560-appb-000003
根据上表，
(1)实施例1与实施例4可知，同等条件下，氨纶延展线与纵向之间夹角为9°的面料和氨纶延展线与纵向之间夹角为2°的面料相比，后者的松弛面积小，运动追随性更为优异。
(2)实施例2与实施例5可知，同等条件下，采用普通氨纶的面料与采用柔软弹性氨纶的面料相比，后者的松弛面积小，运动追随性更为优异。
(3)实施例3与实施例5可知，同等条件下，氨纶分布密度为28w/inch的面料与氨纶分布密度为74w/inch的面料相比，后者的松弛面积小，运动追随性更为优异。
(4)实施例4与实施例6可知，同等条件下，非弹性纱线(尼龙)延展线与纵向之间的夹角为14°的面料和非弹性纱线(尼龙)延展线与纵向之间的夹角为7°的面料相比，前者松弛面积小，运动追随性更为优异。
(5)比较例1与实施例5可知，同等条件下，氨纶延展线与纵向之间的夹角为11°(超过10°)的面料和氨纶延展线与纵向之间的夹角为5°的面料相比，前者的松弛面积大得多，运动追随性较差。
(6)比较例2与实施例4可知，同等条件下，尼龙纱线的延展线与纵向之间的夹角为4°(小于5°)的面料和尼龙纱线的延展线与纵向之间的夹角为14°的面料相比，前者的松弛面积大得多，运动追随性较差。
(7)比较例3与实施例1可知，同等条件下，氨纶延展线与纵向之间的夹角为12°(超过10°)且尼龙纱线延展线与纵向之间的夹角为4°(小于5°)的面料，和氨纶延展线与纵向之间的夹角为9°且尼龙延展线与纵向之间的夹角为14°的面料相比，前者松弛面积大得多，运动追随性较差。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种具有运动追随性的面料，其特征是：所述面料是由非弹性纱线和弹性纱线构成的经编物，所述弹性纱线的延展线与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角为0°～10°，所述非弹性纱线的延展线与线圈纵行方向之间的夹角为5°～85°。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的具有运动追随性的面料，其特征是：所述弹性纱线为聚氨酯纤维。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的具有运动追随性的面料，其特征是：所述聚氨酯纤维为由带有侧链的聚醚二醇、二异氰酸酯化合物与两种以上二胺化合物进行反应后得到，其中所述二胺化合物中含有的乙二胺与碳原子数3～5的分支状脂肪族二胺化合物的摩尔比为98：2～82：18。
  4. 根据权利要求1或2所述的具有运动追随性的面料，其特征在是：所述弹性纱线的含量为50～90重量％。
  5. 根据权利要求1或2所述的具有运动追随性的面料，其特征是：所述弹性纱线的密度分布范围为30～200w/inch。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的具有运动追随性的面料，其特征是：所述非弹性纱线为具有5～50％伸长率的化纤长丝。
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的具有运动追随性的面料，其特征是：所述非弹性纱线的纤度为10～100旦尼尔。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的具有运动追随性的面料，其特征是：所述面料制成直径10cm、高度5cm的筒状后，在50％伸长范围内、3回/秒伸缩条件下，面料轮廓部位凹陷形成的松弛面积在2cm2以下。
  9. 根据权利要求1所述的具有运动追随性的面料，其特征是：在穿着由所述面料制得的服装时，测得静止状态下大腿中间部位衣服压为1.5～2.0kPa，相应部位的所述面料的回复应力为1.5～3.0N。
  10. 根据权利要求1所述的具有运动追随性的面料，其特征是：在JIS L 1096：2010 D法测试条件下，测得所述面料的撕裂强力为9.8N以上；在JIS L 1096：2010 A法测试条件下，测得所述面料的胀破强度为290kPa以上。
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