WO2005055757A1 - Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou - Google Patents

Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2005055757A1
WO2005055757A1 PCT/EP2004/013994 EP2004013994W WO2005055757A1 WO 2005055757 A1 WO2005055757 A1 WO 2005055757A1 EP 2004013994 W EP2004013994 W EP 2004013994W WO 2005055757 A1 WO2005055757 A1 WO 2005055757A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
jewelry
opening
piece
jewelery
tool
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2004/013994
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Manfred Essich
Original Assignee
W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh filed Critical W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh
Priority to JP2006543473A priority Critical patent/JP2007513658A/ja
Priority to DE502004004054T priority patent/DE502004004054D1/de
Priority to EP04803658A priority patent/EP1706007B1/fr
Priority to US10/582,210 priority patent/US20070151293A1/en
Publication of WO2005055757A1 publication Critical patent/WO2005055757A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/043—Setting-tools

Definitions

  • Piece of jewelry with a piece of jewelry and a method and a tool for producing such a piece of jewelry Description
  • the invention relates to a piece of jewelry, in the body of which an opening is arranged in which a jewelery element, in particular a gem or gem, is received, a support for the jewelery element being formed in the opening of the body of the jewelery receiving a jewelry element the insertion depth of the jewelry element into the opening of the body of the jewelry piece is defined and through which a lower edge of the jewelry element is at least selectively supported, the jewelry piece having a holding element running at least over part of the circumference of the opening, and a method for producing such jewelry - Piece, in particular a ring, in the body of which an opening is arranged in which a decorative element, in particular a precious or gem, is received, the opening made in the body of the piece of jewelry according to a first step of the method, has a diameter which is smaller than the diameter of the jewelry element to be introduced into the opening, in a subsequent step an upper region of the opening having a diameter which is equal to or larger than the diameter of the jewelry element is so that between the upper area of the opening with the diameter
  • Jewelry is that the jewelry element is usually only arranged on the surface of the body of the jewelry, so that the jewelry element accommodated in the body of the jewelry has no spatial effect and is usually perceived only as a flat ornamentation.
  • the body of the piece of jewelry on its side opposite the opening has a groove which surrounds the opening in an annular manner and which cooperates with corresponding projections of the press plate.
  • the faceting punch is then subjected to a pressing force and then cold-deformed the material of the body of the jewelry piece surrounding the opening such that this material is subjected to a force directed toward the jewelry element received in the opening. This material is thus displaced towards the jewelry element and forms a holding element for the jewelry piece.
  • the piece of jewelry according to the invention in that the holding element is subjected to a rubbing of the body of the piece of jewelry in the edge region of the opening and then solidified of the material which has been removed from the edge region of the body surrounding the opening, and that the holding element acts on an upper edge of the jewelry element at least selectively, and that the edge region of the body of the jewelry piece surrounding the opening is at least partially chamfered.
  • the holding element is designed to extend essentially over the entire circumference of the opening. Such a measure has the advantage that it forms a particularly secure mounting of the jewelry element in the opening of the body of the jewelry piece.
  • the method according to the invention provides that the material removal in the edge region of the opening is carried out by applying friction to the opening and that a holding element for the decorative element is formed from the material removed in this way, so that an upper edge of the decorative element is at least selectively formed by the holding element designed in this way acted upon and thus the jewelry element is fixed in position in the opening.
  • an advantageous further development of the method according to the invention provides that the holding element is designed to run all around the entire circumference of the opening of the piece of jewelry.
  • Such an embodiment of the method has the advantage that a particularly secure mounting of the decorative element in the opening is achieved.
  • a further advantageous development of the method according to the invention provides that an anti-rotation device, in particular a stone seat for at least one corner of the decorative element, is formed in the opening.
  • a tool which is particularly suitable for producing the piece of jewelry according to the invention is characterized in that it is a cylindrical or has conical tool body, at the front area of which at least one friction element is arranged, which has a friction surface that extends obliquely to the outer surface of the tool body, the tool body having a receiving opening for the decorative element.
  • the measures according to the invention advantageously create a piece of jewelry, a particularly advantageous method for its production and a tool which is particularly suitable for carrying out the method, the piece of jewelry according to the invention being distinguished by the fact that even when one is not only superficially in the opening of the Body of the piece of jewelry introduced jewelry element is securely held in the opening.
  • Another advantage of the "recessed" type of barrel of the jewelry element made possible by the measures according to the invention is that the surface of the piece of jewelry can be processed (ground, polished, polished, etc.) without any problems, without that being accommodated in the opening of the piece of jewelry Jewelry element is damaged or hinders a processing operation.
  • Another advantage of the measures according to the invention is that the removal of the material of the body of the piece of jewelry in the edge region of the opening by means of the reaming tool and the resulting improved optical presence of the jewelry element received in the opening.
  • Another advantage is that the method described is not limited to a specific shape of the decorative element. Rather, the method according to the invention allows jewelry elements with a multiplicity of different cut shapes to be securely inserted into an essentially circular opening.
  • Figure 1 an embodiment of a piece of jewelry
  • FIG. 2 a top view of the exemplary embodiment in FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 3 a section along the line III-III of FIG. 1,
  • Figure 5 an embodiment of a tool particularly suitable for performing the method.
  • a ring 1 ' which has a body 2, in the case of the ring 1' a ring rail, in the surface 3 of which there is at least one opening 4, in a jewelry element 5, which has a diameter D, is used.
  • the opening 4 is - as can be seen in particular from FIGS. 3 and 4a-4e - a through hole, although it is also possible to design the opening 4 as a blind hole.
  • the piece of jewelry 1 is not designed as a ring 1 ', but as a pendant, as an ear piece, as a link in a chain, etc. or as a piece of jewelry for a watch, for a watch band, etc.
  • the term "piece of jewelry” is therefore to be understood in its broadest meaning and includes not only finished pieces of jewelry, but also parts of such objects.
  • the decorative element 5 is preferably a gemstone, but it is also possible to use a decorative stone or a corresponding decorative element for this. Accordingly, the term “decorative element” is also to be understood in its broadest meaning.
  • the jewelery element 5 is not only superficially arranged in the body 2 of the jewelery 1, but the jewelery element 5 is - as can be seen from FIG. 3 - spaced from the surface 3 of the body 2 of the jewelery 1, that is to say "sunk”.
  • the opening 4 of the body 2 of the jewelry item 1 is configured as shown in FIGS. 4a-4e:
  • the opening 4 which in the case shown here is designed as a through hole, is introduced into the body 2 of the piece of jewelry 1, it being provided that the diameter d of the opening 4 is as it is a comparison of Figures 4a and 4b easily results - less than the diameter D of the decorative element 5.
  • an upper region 4 'of the opening 4 of the body 2 of the piece of jewelry 1 - z. B. by boring or milling - enlarged to a diameter d ', which is at least the same, but preferably slightly larger than the diameter D of the decorative element 5, so that - as described further below (see FIG. 4d) - the decorative element 5 can be introduced into the upper region 4 'of the opening 4.
  • a lower region 4 "of the opening 4 is retained unchanged, it therefore still has a diameter d, so that a transition region 6 is formed between the second region 4" with the diameter d and the first region 4 'with the diameter d'. It is preferred that this transition area 6 is conical. In principle, a step-like transition area would also be possible.
  • the transition region 6 now forms - as can best be seen from FIG. 4d - a support 7 for the jewelry element 5 inserted into the opening 4, so that the jewelry element 5 can no longer be inserted into the opening 4 as a result.
  • the depth of the arrangement of the transition region 6 in the opening 4 in the body 2 of the piece of jewelry 1 is therefore dependent on the desired insertion depth of the jewelry element 5 into the opening 4.
  • the support 7 thus supports - depending on the shape of the jewelry element 5 - at least at certain points, but preferably all around, a lower edge 5 'of the jewelry element 5 and thus secures the jewelry element 5 in the opening 4 from below.
  • a stone seat 8 is introduced into the transition area 6, which acts as an anti-rotation device for the decorative element 5 in one of the subsequent work steps.
  • a holding element 10 that is, a socket for the jewelry element 5 in the body 2 of the piece of jewelry 1 - as can be seen from Figures 4d and 4e - is formed, which fixes the position of the jewelry element 5 upwards by this holding element 10 acts on an upper edge 5 "of the jewelery element 5.
  • the material of the body 2 of the jewelery is combined in one by a suitable tool W, preferably by the tool W shown in FIG. 5 and described below edge area 11 surrounding opening 4 is subjected to friction.
  • This material removal is advantageously carried out by a rubbing process so that the material of the body 2 removed from the edge region 11 is removed by the rubbing movement and then transported to the decorative element 5 and solidified there again.
  • the holding element 10 is formed by the material removed from the edge region 11 and solidified again in the immediate vicinity of the decorative element 5, through which the decorative element 5 in the opening 4 is at least selectively fixed in position.
  • the holding element 10 is designed to be essentially or completely circumferential over the entire circumference of the opening 4. Then, a particularly secure hold of the decorative element 5 in the opening 4 is advantageously achieved.
  • a setting of the jewelry element 5 in the opening 4 of the body 2 of the jewelry item 1 is achieved in a simple manner, which guarantees that the jewelry element 5 is reliably held in the opening 4.
  • the material removal described above achieves a conical configuration of the edge region 11 of the opening 4.
  • this has the effect that the decorative element 5 - even though it is accommodated deep in the opening 4 - has an optically present effect.
  • the tool W shown in Figure 4d only schematically and in cross section is shown in more detail.
  • the tool W has a tool body W1 which has an interior space W2 in which - as can be seen from FIG. 4d - the decorative element 5 can be received.
  • the tool W On its front W, the tool W has a friction surface W5, which is preferably subdivided into a plurality of segments W3, and is preferably designed to run obliquely to the outer surface of the tool body W1.
  • a shaft W6 attached to the tool body W1 allows the tool W to be driven in rotation.
  • the tool W presented is not only suitable for carrying out the method described above. It is also advantageously suitable for gripping round stones according to conventional techniques, since such jewelry elements can thus be rubbed in deeper than usual, the quality of this rubbing process being improved compared to conventional tools by making the rub-in rim more precise than usual and wider, which also then leads to an improved opfik, can be trained.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un bijou, dans le corps (2) duquel est ménagée une ouverture (4) recevant un élément décoratif (5), notamment une pierre précieuse. Un support (7) pour l'élément décoratif (5) est formé dans l'ouverture (4), recevant l'élément décoratif (5), du corps (2) du bijou (1). La profondeur de pénétration de l'élément décoratif (5) dans l'ouverture (4) du corps (2) du bijou (1) est définie par l'intermédiaire de ce support (7). Un bord inférieur (5') de l'élément décoratif (5) est soutenu au moins ponctuellement par ledit support (7). Le bijou (1) présente un élément de retenue (10) s'étendant au moins sur une partie de la périphérie de l'ouverture (4). Selon l'invention, l'élément de retenue (10) est formé par abrasion du corps (2) du bijou (1) dans la zone marginale (11) de l'ouverture (4) puis par compactage du matériau retiré de la zone marginale (11), entourant l'ouverture (4), du corps (2). En outre, l'élément de retenue (10) exerce une contrainte au moins ponctuelle sur un bord supérieur (5'') de l'élément décoratif (5). La zone marginale (11), entourant l'ouverture (4), du corps (2) du bijou (1) est au moins partiellement biseautée.
PCT/EP2004/013994 2003-12-12 2004-12-09 Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou WO2005055757A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2006543473A JP2007513658A (ja) 2003-12-12 2004-12-09 装飾要素を持つ宝石品並びにそのような宝石品を製造するための方法及び工具
DE502004004054T DE502004004054D1 (de) 2003-12-12 2004-12-09 Schmuckstück mit einem schmuckelement sowie ein verfahren und ein werkzeug zur herstellung eines derartigen schmuckstücks
EP04803658A EP1706007B1 (fr) 2003-12-12 2004-12-09 Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou
US10/582,210 US20070151293A1 (en) 2003-12-12 2004-12-09 Article of jewellery with an element of ornamentation and a method and a tool for manufacturing such an article of jewellery

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10359824.3 2003-12-12
DE10359824A DE10359824A1 (de) 2003-12-12 2003-12-12 Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren und ein Werkzeug zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2005055757A1 true WO2005055757A1 (fr) 2005-06-23

Family

ID=34672932

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2004/013994 WO2005055757A1 (fr) 2003-12-12 2004-12-09 Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US20070151293A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1706007B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2007513658A (fr)
AT (1) ATE363845T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE10359824A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2005055757A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102008034986B4 (de) * 2008-07-25 2013-01-03 Rohrbacher Gmbh Uhrlünette und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung
WO2012107209A1 (fr) 2011-02-08 2012-08-16 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Bijou avec élément décoratif et procédé de fabrication d'un tel bijou
DE102011010665A1 (de) 2011-02-08 2012-08-09 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks
DE202011002509U1 (de) 2011-02-08 2011-10-21 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement
CN102845943B (zh) * 2012-08-29 2015-06-10 恒信玺利实业股份有限公司 一种宝石装饰物的镶嵌方法
CH707581B1 (fr) * 2013-02-08 2020-01-15 Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior Sa Pièce pour l'horlogerie et procédé de fabrication d'une telle pièce.
USD798185S1 (en) * 2015-07-10 2017-09-26 Yongbo Mai Ring
CN111427252A (zh) * 2020-03-26 2020-07-17 深圳市帕玛精品制造有限公司 手表装饰物的镶嵌方法

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA1012785A (en) * 1975-01-14 1977-06-28 Adolf H. Hess Ball-type stone mount
GB2084855A (en) * 1980-10-09 1982-04-21 Nathan Brothers Ltd Setting gems
EP0367923A2 (fr) * 1988-11-11 1990-05-16 Gebr. Niessing GmbH & Co. Procédé de sertissage de pierres précieuses notamment de brillants
EP1048241A1 (fr) * 1999-04-21 2000-11-02 Clerc S.A. Procédé de sertissage à grains de pierres molles dans une pièce en métal dur.
CH692018A5 (it) * 1997-05-30 2002-01-15 Hayko Kalfayan Procedimento per incastonare un diamante in una montatura di acciaio inossidabile ed incastonatura realizzata con il procedimento.
FR2855947A1 (fr) * 2003-06-11 2004-12-17 Lyon Serti Procede de sertissage d'une pierre dans un element de metal

Family Cites Families (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE208008C (fr) *
US795109A (en) * 1904-10-25 1905-07-18 George William Dover Gem-setting.
US2261958A (en) * 1940-12-03 1941-11-11 Lucien S Burri Article of jewelry
US4566294B1 (en) * 1984-02-02 1994-08-09 Jan Brzozowski Method for the mounting of gems and resulting product
JPS6347712U (fr) * 1986-09-13 1988-03-31
FR2620911B1 (fr) * 1987-09-30 1990-01-05 Favre Diamants Joaillerie Henr Support de sertissage pour pierre precieuse, fine, ornementale, plus specialement diamant; chaton comportant une telle pierre et un tel support de sertissage; procede et outil de faconnage d'un tel support; appareil de faconnage comportant un tel outil; installation de sertissage comportant un tel appareil
US5218839A (en) * 1992-08-25 1993-06-15 Unigem International Jewelry setting
US5475910A (en) * 1993-09-28 1995-12-19 Yamamoto; Katsumi Jewel setting method
WO2000057743A2 (fr) * 1999-03-26 2000-10-05 Laser Optronic Technologies (Proprietary) Limited Monture de pierres précieuses

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA1012785A (en) * 1975-01-14 1977-06-28 Adolf H. Hess Ball-type stone mount
GB2084855A (en) * 1980-10-09 1982-04-21 Nathan Brothers Ltd Setting gems
EP0367923A2 (fr) * 1988-11-11 1990-05-16 Gebr. Niessing GmbH & Co. Procédé de sertissage de pierres précieuses notamment de brillants
CH692018A5 (it) * 1997-05-30 2002-01-15 Hayko Kalfayan Procedimento per incastonare un diamante in una montatura di acciaio inossidabile ed incastonatura realizzata con il procedimento.
EP1048241A1 (fr) * 1999-04-21 2000-11-02 Clerc S.A. Procédé de sertissage à grains de pierres molles dans une pièce en métal dur.
FR2855947A1 (fr) * 2003-06-11 2004-12-17 Lyon Serti Procede de sertissage d'une pierre dans un element de metal

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE10359824A1 (de) 2005-07-21
JP2007513658A (ja) 2007-05-31
EP1706007B1 (fr) 2007-06-06
DE502004004054D1 (de) 2007-07-19
US20070151293A1 (en) 2007-07-05
ATE363845T1 (de) 2007-06-15
EP1706007A1 (fr) 2006-10-04

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP0562141B1 (fr) Sertissage de pierres précieuses
DE102014016677B4 (de) Schließe und Herstellverfahren
WO2005055757A1 (fr) Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou
DE102011009323A1 (de) Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Schmuckringes
DE202017103793U1 (de) Fassung für einen geschliffenen Schmuckstein
EP1410728A2 (fr) Anneau rotatif
EP0221248B1 (fr) Procédé et dispositif pour sertir des pierres précieuses
DE102018129155B4 (de) Verfahren zum Erzeugen eines Schmuckstückes
DE20319725U1 (de) Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Werkzeug zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks
DE102008034986B4 (de) Uhrlünette und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung
DE102017114113A1 (de) Fassung für einen geschliffenen Schmuckstein
DE102009035852B4 (de) Perlschließe
DE19704661A1 (de) Edelsteinfassung für Schmuckstücke und Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung
DE10345860B4 (de) Modell eines Gießverfahrens
WO2020178439A1 (fr) Dispositif de fixation d'une ébauche dentaire à une machine d'usinage
DE102007020416A1 (de) Durch Formschluss zusammengehaltener Ring
DE19959848C2 (de) Ringörmiges Schmuckstück und Verfahren zu dessen Herstellung
AT413826B (de) Schmuckstein
DE102021100152A1 (de) Elastisches Schmuckstück
EP1029994A2 (fr) Rail d'ancrage pour le bâtiment avec ancrages fixés sur le rail par des collerettes obtenues par râclage
AT411204B (de) Vollkugelschmuckstück
DE2531724C3 (de) Schmucksteinfassung
EP4133963A1 (fr) Fermeture à anneau élastique et fabrication d'une fermeture à anneau élastique
CH719937A2 (de) Schmuckring.
DE102011010665A1 (de) Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
AK Designated states

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): AE AG AL AM AT AU AZ BA BB BG BR BW BY BZ CA CH CN CO CR CU CZ DK DM DZ EC EE EG ES FI GB GD GE GH GM HR HU ID IL IN IS JP KE KG KP KR KZ LC LK LR LS LT LU LV MA MD MG MK MN MW MX MZ NA NI NO NZ OM PG PH PL PT RO RU SC SD SE SG SK SL SY TJ TM TN TR TT TZ UA UG US UZ VC VN YU ZA ZM ZW

AL Designated countries for regional patents

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): GM KE LS MW MZ NA SD SL SZ TZ UG ZM ZW AM AZ BY KG KZ MD RU TJ TM AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HU IE IS IT LT LU MC NL PL PT RO SE SI SK TR BF BJ CF CG CI CM GA GN GQ GW ML MR NE SN TD TG

121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application
DPEN Request for preliminary examination filed prior to expiration of 19th month from priority date (pct application filed from 20040101)
WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 10582210

Country of ref document: US

WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 2006543473

Country of ref document: JP

WWE Wipo information: entry into national phase

Ref document number: 2004803658

Country of ref document: EP

WWP Wipo information: published in national office

Ref document number: 2004803658

Country of ref document: EP

WWG Wipo information: grant in national office

Ref document number: 2004803658

Country of ref document: EP

WWP Wipo information: published in national office

Ref document number: 10582210

Country of ref document: US