EP1706007B1 - Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou - Google Patents

Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1706007B1
EP1706007B1 EP04803658A EP04803658A EP1706007B1 EP 1706007 B1 EP1706007 B1 EP 1706007B1 EP 04803658 A EP04803658 A EP 04803658A EP 04803658 A EP04803658 A EP 04803658A EP 1706007 B1 EP1706007 B1 EP 1706007B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
opening
ornamentation
jewelry
diameter
jewellery
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP04803658A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP1706007A1 (fr
Inventor
Manfred Essich
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
W D'Or Brillantschmuck GmbH
Original Assignee
W D'Or Brillantschmuck GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by W D'Or Brillantschmuck GmbH filed Critical W D'Or Brillantschmuck GmbH
Publication of EP1706007A1 publication Critical patent/EP1706007A1/fr
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Publication of EP1706007B1 publication Critical patent/EP1706007B1/fr
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/043—Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a piece of jewelry, in the body of an opening is arranged, in which a jewelry element, in particular a precious or gemstone, is received, wherein in a jewelry element receiving opening of the body of the piece of jewelry a support for the jewelry element is formed by a the lower portion of the opening has a diameter smaller than the diameter of the jewelery element, wherein the support defines the depth of insertion of the jewelery element into the opening of the body of the jewel such that the jewelery element is spaced from the surface of the body, and by which a lower edge of the decorative element is at least selectively supported, wherein a transition region is formed between an upper region and the lower region of the opening is, which forms the support for the jewelry element, and wherein the jewelry has a running at least over a portion of the circumference of the opening holding member, and a method for producing a piece of jewelry, in particular a ring, in the body of which an opening is arranged, in the jewelery element, in particular a precious or gemstone, is received, wherein the introduced into the
  • Jewels in which an ornamental element, in particular a gemstone, is received in an opening are known.
  • a disadvantage of the known jewelery pieces is that the jewelery element is usually arranged only on the surface of the body of the jewel, so that the jewelry element received in the body of the jewel unfolds no spatial effect and is usually perceived only as areal ornamentation.
  • the body of the piece of jewelry on its side opposite the opening side has an opening annularly surrounding groove which cooperates with corresponding projections of the press plate.
  • the faceting die is then acted upon by a pressing force and then cold-deformed in such a way the material surrounding the opening of the body of the jewel, so that this material is acted upon with a force directed towards the jewelery element received in the opening. This material is displaced towards the jewelry element and forms a holding element for the piece of jewelry.
  • the disadvantage occurs that the piece of jewelry must be fixed by a gluing process in the opening.
  • This approach has the disadvantage that the decorative element used can be damaged by the adhesive used, in particular in the case of a gemstone, or, in the case of a "gentle bonding", is held only insecurely in the opening of the body, which is disadvantageous in particular. if a more expensive gemstone is used as a decorative element.
  • the CH 692018 A shows a piece of jewelry, in the body of an opening is arranged, in which a decorative element is added. It is provided that the jewelry element is received with its lower tip in a hole in the body of the piece of jewelry, and its upper edge through Grating is attached.
  • This known piece of jewelry also has the disadvantage that the decorative element is "embedded in concrete" in the opening, so that an improved optical Presents the jewelry element is not given.
  • EP 1 048 241 describes the grasping of a jewelery element not sunk in an opening, the grasping of this jewelery element in such a way that the material of the body is pushed over the jewelery element.
  • the FR 2 855 947 in turn writes a not submerged arranged in an opening jewelry element.
  • EP 0 367 923 describes a method of grasping gemstones in which the gemstone is pressed under pressure into a bore whose diameter is slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the gemstone to be grasped, whereby after driving in the outer margins of the gemstone into the borehole the surface level of the frame metal is rubbed from above metal material over the outer edge portions of the stone to be grasped.
  • the holding element is formed by a Reibbeetzschung the body of the jewelry in the edge region of the opening by a rotating tool and then solidifying the material which has been removed from the surrounding the opening edge region of the body in that the holding element acts at least punctually on an upper edge of the jewelery element, and in that the edge region of the body of the body surrounding the opening Piece of jewelery is conical and extends from the holding element, starting chamfered to the surface of the body towards, so that the opening in the upper region has a diameter which is greater than the diameter of the jewelry element.
  • the holding element is designed to extend substantially over the entire circumference of the opening. Such a measure has the advantage that in this way a particularly secure mounting of the jewelery element is formed in the opening of the body of the jewel.
  • the inventive method provides that the removal of material in the edge region of the opening by a Reibbeetzung of the same is carried out by a rotating tool, and that from the thus ablated and later re-solidified material, a holding element for the decorative element is formed, so that by the thus formed holding element an upper edge of the ornamental element is at least punctiform acted upon and in such a way that the decorative element is conically fixed in the opening, and that this frictional engagement surrounding a peripheral edge portion is conical, so that this conically shaped edge portion of the holding element, starting from the surface of the body increases and the diameter the upper portion of the opening is increased.
  • an advantageous development of the method according to the invention provides that the holding element is formed circumferentially over substantially the entire circumference of the opening of the piece of jewelry.
  • Such an embodiment of the method has the advantage that in this way a particularly secure mounting of the jewelry element is achieved in the opening.
  • the measures according to the invention a piece of jewelry and a particularly advantageous method to its advantageous manner Made creation, wherein the piece of jewelry according to the invention is characterized in that even in a not only superficially introduced into the opening of the body of the piece of jewelry a secure hold of the same is given in the opening.
  • a further advantage of the "sunken" Fassart Schmukkiatas enabled by the inventive measures is that the surface of the piece of jewelry can be easily edited (polished, polished, lapidated, etc.) can be without the jewelry element received in the opening of the piece of jewelry is damaged or hindering a processing operation.
  • Another advantage of the measures according to the invention is that given by the removal of the material of the body of the jewelry in the edge region of the opening by means of the rotating tool and the resulting improved optical presence of the received in the opening jewelry element. Furthermore, it is also advantageous that the method described is not limited to a particular shape of the jewelry element. Rather, the method according to the invention makes it possible to safely insert jewelry elements with a multiplicity of different cut shapes into a substantially circular opening.
  • Figure 1 is now fragmentary a piece of jewelry 1, in the case shown here, a ring 1 ', which has a body 2, in the case of the ring 1' has a ring rail, in whose or their surface 3 at least one opening 4 is present, in a jewelry element 5, which has a diameter D, is inserted.
  • the opening 4 is in the case shown here - as is apparent in particular from Figures 3 and 4a-4e - a through hole, but it is also possible to form the opening 4 as a blind hole.
  • the piece of jewelry 1 is not configured as a ring 1 ', but as a pendant, ear jewelry, as a link of a chain, etc. or as a decorative element for a clock, for a watch band, etc.
  • the term "piece of jewelry” is therefore to be understood in its broadest sense and includes not only finished jewelry, but also parts of such objects.
  • the jewelry element 5 is preferably a gem, but it is also possible to use a gem or a corresponding decorative element for this purpose. Consequently, the term “ornamental element” is also to be understood in its broadest meaning.
  • the jewelery element 5 is not only superficially arranged in the body 2 of the jewel 1 in the described piece of jewelry 1, but the jewelry element 5 is - as can be seen from the figure 3 - from the surface 3 of the body. 2 the jewel 1 spaced, so "sunk” arranged.
  • the opening 4 of the body 2 of the jewel 1 is configured as shown in FIGS. 4a-4e:
  • a lower region 4 "of the opening 4 is maintained unchanged, it thus continues to have a diameter d, so that a transition region 6 is formed between the second region 4" with the diameter d and the first region 4 'with the diameter d'. It is preferred that this transition region 6 is conical. In principle, a stepped transition region would also be possible.
  • the transition region 6 now forms - as best seen in Figure 4d - a support 7 for the inserted into the opening 4 jewelry element 5, so that the jewelry element 5 can not be introduced thereby deeper into the opening 4.
  • the depth of the arrangement of the transition region 6 in the opening 4 in the body 2 of the jewel 1 is therefore dependent on the desired insertion depth of the jewelry element 5 in the opening 4.
  • the support 7 thus supports - depending on the shape of the jewelry element 5 - at least selectively, but preferably circumferentially, a lower edge 5 'of the jewelry element 5 and thus secures the jewelry element 5 in the opening 4 from below.
  • a stone seat 8 is introduced, which acts as a rotation for the jewelry element 5 in one of the subsequent steps.
  • a stone seat 8 is introduced, which acts as a rotation for the jewelry element 5 in one of the subsequent steps.
  • - depending on the shape of the jewelry element 5 and the implementation of the subsequent steps - can be dispensed with this stone seat 8.
  • the opening 4 is configured as described above and the jewelry element 5 is inserted into the opening 4 and on through the Transition region 6 trained support 7 was placed, is now a holding element 10, so a socket for the jewelry element 5 in the body 2 of the piece of jewelry 1 - as shown in Figures 4d and 4e - formed, which causes a positional fixation of the jewelry element 5 upwards by this holding element 10 acts on an upper edge 5 "of the jewelery element 5.
  • the material of the body 2 of the jewel is produced by a suitable tool W, preferably by the tool W shown in Fig. 5 and described below the opening 4 surrounding edge portion 11 reibbeetzschlagt.
  • the holding element 10 is formed by the material removed from the edge region 11 and solidified again in the immediate vicinity of the schmukkelement 5, through which the decorative element 5 in the opening 4 is at least selectively fixed in position. It is preferred that the holding element 10 is formed substantially or completely over the entire circumference of the opening 4 circumferentially. Then, a special secure hold of the jewelry element 5 in the opening 4 is achieved in an advantageous manner. In this way, in conjunction with the support 7 in a simple manner, a version of the jewelry element 5 in the opening 4 of the body 2 of the jewelry 1 reaches, which guarantees that the jewelry element 5 is held reliably in the opening 4.
  • a conical configuration of the edge region 11 of the opening 4 is achieved by the material removal described above. This has in an advantageous manner the effect that the jewelry element 5 - although it is deeply received in the opening 4 - optically present acts.
  • FIG. 5 now shows in more detail the tool W shown only diagrammatically in cross-section in FIG. 4d.
  • the tool W has a tool body W1, which has an interior W2, in which - as shown in Figure 4d - the jewelry element 5 can be accommodated.
  • the tool W On its front side W ', the tool W has a friction surface W5-preferably subdivided into a plurality of segments W3 -which is preferably designed to run obliquely to the outer surface of the tool body W1.
  • a shaft W6 attaching to the tool body W1 permits a rotary drive of the tool W.
  • the presented tool W is not only suitable for carrying out the method described above.

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  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (5)

  1. Bijou, dans le corps (2) duquel est disposée une ouverture (4) où est logé un élément décoratif (5), notamment une pierre précieuse ou décorative, où un appui (7) pour l'élément décoratif (5) est formé dans l'ouverture (4) du corps (2) du bijou (1) recevant l'élément décoratif (5), une zone inférieure (4'') de l'ouverture (4) présentant un diamètre (d) inférieur au diamètre (D) de l'élément décoratif (5), où la profondeur d'insertion de l'élément décoratif (5) dans l'ouverture (4) du corps (2) du bijou (1) est définie par l'appui (7) de telle manière que l'élément décoratif (5) soit disposé à intervalle de la surface (3) du corps (2), et un bord inférieur (5') de l'élément décoratif (5) est au moins ponctuellement soutenu par l'appui (7), où une zone de transition (6) est ménagée entre une zone supérieure (4') et la zone inférieure (4") de l'ouverture (4), laquelle forme l'appui (7) pour l'élément décoratif (5), et où le bijou (1) comporte un élément de maintien (10) s'étendant sur au moins une partie de la circonférence de l'ouverture (4), caractérisé en ce que l'élément de maintien (10) est formé par usinage par friction du corps (2) du bijou (1) dans la zone du bord (11) de l'ouverture (4) au moyen d'un outil rotatif (W) et par solidification consécutive du matériau enlevé de la zone du bord (11) du corps (2) entourant l'ouverture (4), en ce que l'élément de maintien (10) est appliqué au moins ponctuellement contre un bord supérieur (5") de l'élément décoratif (5), et en ce que la zone du bord (11) du corps (2) du bijou (1) entourant l'ouverture (4) est de forme conique et s'étend en pente ascendante de l'élément de maintien (10) à la surface (3) du corps (2), si bien que l'ouverture (4) présente dans la zone supérieure (4') un diamètre (d') supérieur au diamètre (D) de l'élément décoratif (5).
  2. Bijou selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que l'élément de maintien (10) est réalisé entourant sensiblement toute la circonférence de l'ouverture (4).
  3. Bijou selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le bijou est réalisé comme bague (1'), pendeloque, partie d'un maillon d'une chaîne, boucle d'oreille, partie d'une montre ou d'un bracelet-montre.
  4. Procédé de fabrication d'un bijou (1), en particulier d'une bague (1'), dans le corps (2) duquel est disposée une ouverture (4) où est logé un élément décoratif (5), notamment une pierre précieuse ou décorative, où l'ouverture (4) réalisée dans le corps (2) du bijou (1) présente après une première étape du procédé un diamètre (d) inférieur au diamètre (D) de l'élément décoratif (5) à insérer dans l'ouverture (4), où, dans une étape suivante, une zone supérieure (4') de l'ouverture (4) est réalisée avec un diamètre (d') supérieur ou égal au diamètre (D) de l'élément décoratif (5), de manière que soit formée une zone de transition (6) servant d'appui (7) pour l'élément décoratif (5) entre la zone supérieure (4') de l'ouverture (4) de diamètre (d') et une zone inférieure (4") de l'ouverture (4) de diamètre inférieur (d), et que l'élément décoratif (5) soit inséré dans l'ouverture (4) et positionné sur l'appui (7) de telle manière que l'élément décoratif (5) soit disposé à intervalle de la surface (3) du corps (2), où, dans une étape suivante, le matériau du corps (2) du bijou (1) est enlevé dans une zone de bord (11) entourant l'ouverture (4), le matériau enlevé étant ajouté à l'élément décoratif (5) logé dans l'ouverture (4) du corps (2), caractérisé en ce que l'enlèvement de matériau dans la zone de bord (11) de l'ouverture (4) est obtenu par usinage par friction de celle-ci au moyen d'un outil rotatif (W), en ce qu'un élément de maintien (10) pour l'élément décoratif (5) est réalisé avec le matériau ainsi enlevé puis re-solidifié, l'élément de maintien (10) réalisé étant ainsi appliqué au moins ponctuellement contre un bord supérieur (5") de l'élément décoratif (5) et la position de l'élément décoratif (5) fixée dans l'ouverture (4), et en ce que cet usinage par friction crée une zone de bord (11) conique entourant l'ouverture (4), si bien que ladite zone de bord (11) conique s'étend en pente ascendante de l'élément de maintien (10) à la surface (3) du corps (2), et que le diamètre (d') de la zone supérieure (4') de l'ouverture (4) est agrandi.
  5. Procédé selon la revendication 4, caractérisé en ce que l'élément de maintien (10) est réalisé entourant sensiblement toute la circonférence de l'ouverture (4).
EP04803658A 2003-12-12 2004-12-09 Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou Active EP1706007B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10359824A DE10359824A1 (de) 2003-12-12 2003-12-12 Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren und ein Werkzeug zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks
PCT/EP2004/013994 WO2005055757A1 (fr) 2003-12-12 2004-12-09 Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1706007A1 EP1706007A1 (fr) 2006-10-04
EP1706007B1 true EP1706007B1 (fr) 2007-06-06

Family

ID=34672932

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP04803658A Active EP1706007B1 (fr) 2003-12-12 2004-12-09 Bijou comportant un element decoratif et procede et outil pour produire un tel bijou

Country Status (6)

Country Link
US (1) US20070151293A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1706007B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2007513658A (fr)
AT (1) ATE363845T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE10359824A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2005055757A1 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE202011002509U1 (de) 2011-02-08 2011-10-21 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement
DE102011010665A1 (de) 2011-02-08 2012-08-09 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks
WO2012107209A1 (fr) 2011-02-08 2012-08-16 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Bijou avec élément décoratif et procédé de fabrication d'un tel bijou

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102008034986B4 (de) * 2008-07-25 2013-01-03 Rohrbacher Gmbh Uhrlünette und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung
CN102845943B (zh) * 2012-08-29 2015-06-10 恒信玺利实业股份有限公司 一种宝石装饰物的镶嵌方法
CH707581B1 (fr) * 2013-02-08 2020-01-15 Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior Sa Pièce pour l'horlogerie et procédé de fabrication d'une telle pièce.
USD798185S1 (en) * 2015-07-10 2017-09-26 Yongbo Mai Ring
CN111427252A (zh) * 2020-03-26 2020-07-17 深圳市帕玛精品制造有限公司 手表装饰物的镶嵌方法

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DE208008C (fr) *
US795109A (en) * 1904-10-25 1905-07-18 George William Dover Gem-setting.
US2261958A (en) * 1940-12-03 1941-11-11 Lucien S Burri Article of jewelry
CA1012785A (en) * 1975-01-14 1977-06-28 Adolf H. Hess Ball-type stone mount
GB2084855B (en) * 1980-10-09 1983-07-06 Nathan Brothers Ltd Setting gems
US4566294B1 (en) * 1984-02-02 1994-08-09 Jan Brzozowski Method for the mounting of gems and resulting product
JPS6347712U (fr) * 1986-09-13 1988-03-31
FR2620911B1 (fr) * 1987-09-30 1990-01-05 Favre Diamants Joaillerie Henr Support de sertissage pour pierre precieuse, fine, ornementale, plus specialement diamant; chaton comportant une telle pierre et un tel support de sertissage; procede et outil de faconnage d'un tel support; appareil de faconnage comportant un tel outil; installation de sertissage comportant un tel appareil
DE3838317A1 (de) * 1988-11-11 1990-07-05 Niessing Geb Verfahren und vorrichtung zum fassen von edelsteinen, insbesondere von brillanten
US5218839A (en) * 1992-08-25 1993-06-15 Unigem International Jewelry setting
US5475910A (en) * 1993-09-28 1995-12-19 Yamamoto; Katsumi Jewel setting method
CH692018A5 (it) * 1997-05-30 2002-01-15 Hayko Kalfayan Procedimento per incastonare un diamante in una montatura di acciaio inossidabile ed incastonatura realizzata con il procedimento.
WO2000057743A2 (fr) * 1999-03-26 2000-10-05 Laser Optronic Technologies (Proprietary) Limited Monture de pierres précieuses
FR2792508B1 (fr) * 1999-04-21 2001-07-27 Clerc Sa Procede de sertissage a grains de pierres molles dans une piece en metal dur
FR2855947B1 (fr) * 2003-06-11 2005-07-22 Lyon Serti Procede de sertissage d'une pierre dans un element de metal

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE202011002509U1 (de) 2011-02-08 2011-10-21 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement
DE102011010665A1 (de) 2011-02-08 2012-08-09 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks
WO2012107209A1 (fr) 2011-02-08 2012-08-16 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Bijou avec élément décoratif et procédé de fabrication d'un tel bijou

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP2007513658A (ja) 2007-05-31
US20070151293A1 (en) 2007-07-05
DE10359824A1 (de) 2005-07-21
ATE363845T1 (de) 2007-06-15
WO2005055757A1 (fr) 2005-06-23
DE502004004054D1 (de) 2007-07-19
EP1706007A1 (fr) 2006-10-04

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