US20150045420A1 - Skin care compositions having cyclic diesters and methods thereof - Google Patents

Skin care compositions having cyclic diesters and methods thereof Download PDF

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US20150045420A1
US20150045420A1 US14/455,115 US201414455115A US2015045420A1 US 20150045420 A1 US20150045420 A1 US 20150045420A1 US 201414455115 A US201414455115 A US 201414455115A US 2015045420 A1 US2015045420 A1 US 2015045420A1
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skin care
skin
aqueous solvent
care composition
polar non
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William R. Cahill, JR.
Robert Ray Burch
Jeffrey Jon Horsager
Jessica Linda Reisack
Jennifer Marie Altland
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Chemours Co FC LLC
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EI Du Pont de Nemours and Co
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Publication of US20150045420A1 publication Critical patent/US20150045420A1/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant

Definitions

  • the present invention generally relates to topical skin care compositions having at least one cyclic diester. More specifically, the present invention relates to novel topical skin care compositions having at least one cyclic diester of an alpha hydroxy acid, and at least one polar non-aqueous solvent.
  • Alpha hydroxy acids are known to be useful in skin care compositions for treating various skin conditions, including rhytids (i.e., wrinkles), xeroderma (i.e., dry skin), hyperkeratosis, ichthyosis, and discoloration.
  • AHAs that are short chain carboxylic acids, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, are preferred in cosmetic compositions due to the AHAs ability to penetrate skin.
  • the bioavailability of short chain AHAs stimulates cellular activity in the epidermis and dermis, as well as increases desquamation of the outer layers of the epidermis to help alleviate and treat the skin conditions above.
  • short chain AHAs can aid and stimulate collagen synthesis, which further helps reduce rhytids, while improving skin elasticity and firmness.
  • AHAs are acids, which can lead to skin irritation.
  • AHAs for their acidic properties may be desirable in certain applications, such as for skin peel applications, the acidity of AHAs can have detrimental and undesirable effects for more daily and routine applications.
  • skin care compositions in the field generally have problems sustaining relatively long-term stability, while also allowing sufficient penetration of the active ingredient into the skin. Stability problems can occur based on a variety of environmental factors, including changes in temperature and humidity during processing, shipping, storage, and use, as well as chemical factors within the compositions, including the miscibility or homogeneity of the various components. In this respect, less stable compositions can be more acidic and can potentially become more acidic over time due to masking components becoming diminished or separating out of the compositions, which further exacerbates the irritability of the compositions.
  • the present invention generally relates to novel skin care compositions comprising:
  • the skin care composition comprises less than 1 wt. % of water.
  • the present invention relates to novel skin care compositions comprising:
  • the skin care composition comprises less than 1 wt. % of water.
  • Another embodiment of the present invention relates to a process for producing the novel skin care compositions.
  • FIG. 1 represents the relative skin penetration of two exemplary skin care compositions versus a control of water and a composition not having at least one polar non-aqueous solvent, in which the layers are along the x-axis and the absorbance at 1766 cm-1 is along the y-axis.
  • FIG. 2 represents the relative skin penetration of two exemplary skin care compositions versus a control of water, in which the layers are along the x-axis and the absorbance at 1766 cm-1 is along the y-axis.
  • FIG. 3 represents the relative skin penetration of two exemplary skin care compositions versus a control of water, in which the layers are along the x-axis and the absorbance at 1766 cm-1 is along the y-axis.
  • FIG. 4 represents the relative skin penetration of two exemplary skin care compositions versus three compositions not having at least one polar non-aqueous solvent, in which the layers are along the x-axis and the absorbance at 1766 cm-1 is along the y-axis.
  • the term “about” means within 15% of the reported numerical value; in another embodiment, the term “about” means within 10% of the reported numerical value.
  • skin care composition As used herein, the term “skin care composition,” “cosmetic,” “cosmetic composition,” and similar terms, including plural terms, can be used interchangeably.
  • skin care composition includes compositions that can be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body, including skin, or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, as well as includes compositions intended for use as a component of another cosmetic.
  • skin care composition and other terms above do not exclude soap, and specifically includes topical compositions for application to human skin.
  • weight percentages are based on the total wt. % of the skin care composition, unless otherwise specified. Additionally, all composition percentages are based on totals equal to 100 wt. %, unless otherwise specified.
  • the skin care compositions herein provide an alternative to other compositions having AHAs, while at the same time providing stable compositions having reduced acidity, including in preferred embodiments having low acidity, and good skin penetration.
  • AHAs have increased in the cosmetic industry due to the beneficial effects AHAs have on skin
  • AHAs have on skin
  • a major drawback with using AHAs is the acidic nature of the compounds.
  • glycolic acid and lactic acid which are C 2 and C 3 AHAs respectively, both have pKa values less than 4. See, e.g., W. M. Haynes, CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics 5-94 to 5-95 (94th ed. 2013). This relatively high acidity can cause irritation and discomfort to the user, especially users with sensitive skin.
  • the skin care compositions can have a pH of 5.5 to 8, more preferably 6 to 8, and even more preferably the skin care compositions can have a pH of about 7.
  • the skin care compositions can be formulated with other components to have a lower pH, including a pH of 3 to 8, more preferably 3.5 to 7, and even more preferably 3.8 to 4.2.
  • the skin care compositions can have an acidity of 10 wt. % or less, more preferably 8 wt. % or less, and even more preferably 5 wt. % or less at about 20° C.
  • the acidity of the skin care compositions can be determined by the amount of cyclic ester in the skin care composition that has converted into another form and is not in the cyclic form.
  • the acidity of the skin care compositions can be determined by the amount of cyclic ester that has converted into an acidic, non-cyclic dimer form and the amount of cyclic ester that has converted into the corresponding free form AHAs, as well as any AHAs that may have been added to the compositions.
  • the current skin care compositions also allow cyclic diesters of an alpha hydroxy acid, or mixtures of cyclic diesters, to penetrate skin.
  • the skin care compositions can improve the penetration of at least one cyclic diester of an alpha hydroxy acid through at least one layer of skin by at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, and more preferably at least 50% versus skin care compositions not having at least one polar non-aqueous solvent.
  • the skin care compositions can provide an absorbance of at least 0.15, preferably at least 0.17, more preferably at least 0.2, and even more preferably at least 0.25 for at least one skin layer determined by attenuated total reflectance (ATR)-FTIR spectroscopy at 1766 cm-1.
  • ATR attenuated total reflectance
  • the skin care compositions can provide an absorbance of about 0.15 to about 0.5, preferably about 0.17 to about 0.4, and more preferably about 0.2 to about 0.35 for at least one skin layer determined by attenuated total reflectance (ATR)-FTIR spectroscopy at 1766 cm-1.
  • ATR attenuated total reflectance
  • the cyclic diester that can be used in the invention can be any cyclic diester of any alpha hydroxy acid.
  • the cyclic diester is a C 4 -C 8 diester, which can be formed from the dimerization of two C 2 -C 4 AHAs.
  • the cyclic diester can be a cyclic dimer of two identical AHAs, or a combination of two different AHAs.
  • the cyclic diester can be formed by two glycolic acid molecules resulting in glycolide, two lactic acid molecules to form lactide, or one glycolic acid and one lactic acid molecule.
  • all isomers of the AHAs are encompassed, including all isomers of lactide, such as the D- and L-isomers.
  • the cyclic diester can have the following formula:
  • the cyclic diester can have formula (I) wherein R 1 is hydrogen, methyl, or ethyl; and R 2 is hydrogen, methyl, or ethyl.
  • the cyclic diester can be glycolide or lactide, in which R 1 and R 2 are both hydrogen or methyl, respectively.
  • the skin care compositions of the instant invention can also have mixtures of various cyclic diesters.
  • the skin care compositions can have mixtures of C 4 -C 8 diesters, including but not limited to mixtures of glycolide and lactide.
  • the compositions can comprise 0.1 to 30 wt. % of at least one cyclic diester of an alpha hydroxy acid.
  • the skin care compositions can comprise 0.1 to 20 wt. %, including 0.5 to 10 wt. %, and more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt. %, including 1 to 5 wt. %, of at least one cyclic diester.
  • the skin care compositions can comprise 0.1 to 20 wt. %, including 0.5 to 10 wt. %, and more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt. %, including 1 to 5 wt.
  • the skin care compositions can have about 0.1 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt. %, including 1 to 5 wt. %, of glycolide. In other embodiments having mixtures of cyclic diesters, preferably the skin care compositions can have about 0.1 to 10 wt. %, more preferably 0.5 to 5 wt. %, including 1 to 5 wt. %, of lactide.
  • polar non-aqueous solvents can be used in the instant skin care compositions.
  • at least one polar non-aqueous solvent in the instant skin care compositions should be able to dissolve a cyclic diester of an alpha hydroxy acid to some degree.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can dissolve at least 1 wt. %, more preferably at least 5 wt. %, and even more preferably at least 10 wt. % of the cyclic diester based on the weight of the solvent in the skin care composition.
  • at least one polar non-aqueous solvent can dissolve 1 to 20 wt. %, more preferably 5 to 20 wt. %, and even more preferably 10 to 20 wt. % of the cyclic diester based on the weight of the solvent in the skin care composition.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can be any organic solvent.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can be a polar C 1 -C 15 solvent, more preferably the solvent can be a polar C 1 -C 10 solvent, and even more preferably the solvent can be a polar C 2 -C 10 solvent.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can have a polarity of at least 5, and in certain preferred embodiments, the polar non-aqueous solvent can have a polarity of at least 8, as defined in C. M. Hansen, Hansen Solubility Parameters: A User's Handbook (2nd ed. 2007) (“Hansen”), which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can have a polarity of about 5 to about 20, and more preferably about 8 to about 18, as defined in Hansen.
  • the non-aqueous solvents can have a certain hydrogen bonding potential, as defined in Hansen.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can have a hydrogen bonding potential of at least 5 up to about 25, and more preferably at least 5 up to about 20, as defined in Hansen.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can have a hydrogen bonding potential of at least 5 up to about 20, and a polarity of at least 5 up to about 20, as defined in Hansen.
  • Even more preferred embodiments can have a hydrogen bonding potential of about 6 to about 10, and can have a polarity of about 7 to about 11, as defined in Hansen.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can be substituted or unsubstituted, and can be linear, branched, or cyclic, including bicyclic, aromatic, or both. If the solvent is cyclic, including bicyclic, aromatic, or both, the solvent can have at least one heteroatom in the cyclic structure, including but not limited to oxygen, nitrogen, or combinations thereof. Additionally, while the polar non-aqueous solvent is not limited to having any particular functional group(s), in preferred embodiments, the polar non-aqueous solvent can have at least one carbonyl, ether, alcohol, amide, amine, imine, cyanate, isocyanate, nitrile, isonitrile, and combinations thereof.
  • the skin care compositions can have at least one polar non-aqueous solvent of formula (II):
  • R 3 is hydrogen, oxygen, ether, or ester
  • R 4 is hydrogen or an alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, or alkyl hydroxy group
  • R 5 is nitrogen, an alkyl, hydroxyl ether, ester, amide, or amine
  • R 6 is an alkyl, ether, ester, amide, amine, or combinations thereof
  • x is 0 or 1; with the proviso that if R 5 is nitrogen and forms a nitrile group, then x is 0, and if R 3 is oxygen, then C y and R 3 form a carbonyl
  • R 4 and R 5 can join to form a cyclic or bicyclic structure including an aromatic structure, which can include heteroatoms and can be optionally substituted with at least one R 6 group.
  • R 6 groups can be the same or different.
  • R 3 is oxygen to form a carbonyl with C y , or a C 1 -C 5 alkoxy or aryloxy group
  • R 4 is hydrogen or a C 1 -C 5 alkyl
  • R 5 is nitrogen, a C 1 -C 5 alkyl, a C 1 -C 5 ether, a C 1 -C 5 ester, or an amide; with the proviso that if R 5 is nitrogen and forms a nitrile group, then x is 0.
  • the skin care compositions can have at least one polar non-aqueous solvent of formula (III), formula (IV), or mixtures thereof:
  • R 6 is an alkyl, ether, ester, amide, amine, or combinations thereof; a is 1 to 3; b is 1 to 5; and z is 1 to 3.
  • R 6 is a C 1 -C 5 alkoxy group, C 1 -C 5 aryloxy group, or combinations thereof, and more preferably R 6 is a methoxy, ethoxy, or combinations thereof.
  • b is 1 to 4, and more preferably 1 to 3.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can be polar C 1 -C 10 alcohols, including diols, ketones, esters, ethers, cyclic ethers, amides, nitriles, and mixtures thereof, and specifically includes polar C 1 -C 5 linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted ketones, esters, ethers, amides, nitriles, and mixtures thereof. Additionally, the polar non-aqueous solvent specifically includes polar C 4 -C 10 cyclic ethers, cyclic ketones, and mixtures thereof, which can be substituted or unsubstituted.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can be a mixture of solvents of formula (II), (III), and/or (IV).
  • the non-aqueous solvent can be blends of the polar C 1 -C 5 linear or branched, substituted or unsubstituted ketones, esters, ethers, amides, nitriles, and mixtures thereof, with the polar, substituted or unsubstituted C 4 -C 10 cyclic ethers, cyclic ketones, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of particularly preferred embodiments of the polar non-aqueous solvent can include dimethylacetamide, acetonitrile, ethyl acetate, tetrahydrofuran, dimethylformamide, methyl ethyl ketone, cyclohexanone, isosorbide dimethyl ether (also known as “dimethyl isosorbide”), methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the current skin care compositions can comprise 5 to 30 wt. % of at least one polar non-aqueous solvent, and more preferably can comprise 10 to 30 wt. %, even more preferably 10 to 20 wt. %, of the polar non-aqueous solvent.
  • the skin care composition can comprise 5 to 25 wt. %, and more preferably 7.5 to 15 wt. % of the polar non-aqueous solvent.
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent can include mixtures of solvents, the mixtures having a final weight percent according to the ranges above based on the total weight percentage of the composition.
  • the bases useful in the instant skin care compositions can include bases generally used in cosmetic and skin care compositions.
  • the base can be non-polar, or have a relatively low polarity. More specifically, in preferred embodiments, the base can have a polarity of 5 or less, and more preferably 2.5 or less, as defined in Hansen. In specific embodiments, the base can be non-polar, or have a polarity of 1 or less, as defined in Hansen.
  • the base can generally be hydrophobic and can have a relatively low water content. Specifically, the base can have less than 1 wt. % of water, more preferably less than 0.5 wt. % of water, and in particularly preferred embodiments, the base can have less than 0.1 wt. % of water.
  • the base can be a long chain, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic hydrocarbon, including a cyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon, and mixtures thereof. More specifically, in certain preferred embodiments, the base can comprise at least one straight or branched C 10 or higher long chain alkane, alkene, or alkyne, and preferably comprises at least one C 10 -C 50 straight or branched alkane, alkene, or alkyne. In particularly preferred embodiments, the base can have at least one C 15 -C 40 , more preferably at least one C 25 -C 35 , straight or branched alkane, alkene, or alkyne.
  • the base can comprise at least one cyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon, optionally substituted with at least one straight or branched C 8 or higher, preferably at least one C 8 -C 50 , more preferably at least one C 10 -C 35 straight or branched alkane, alkene, or alkyne.
  • the base can be mixtures of the straight or branched C 10 or higher long chain alkane, alkene, or alkyne, including the preferred C 10 -C 50 , and more preferred C 15 -C 40 , and even more preferred C 25 -C 35 , straight or branched alkane, alkene, or alkyne, with the cyclic aliphatic hydrocarbon, optionally substituted with at least one straight or branched C 8 or higher, preferably at least one C 8 -C 50 , more preferably at least one C 10 -C 35 , straight or branched alkane, alkene, or alkyne.
  • the base can be oleaginous, a wax, or both.
  • the base can have a melting point greater than 25° C., or in alternative embodiments, the base can have a melting point of 25° C. or less.
  • the base can be petroleum jelly, petrolatum, paraffin wax, mineral oil, and combinations thereof.
  • the skin care compositions can comprise 40 to 95 wt. % of at least one base, and more preferably can comprise 45 to 95 wt. %, even more preferably 60 to 95 wt. %, of at least one base. In certain preferred embodiments, the skin care compositions can comprise 80 to 95 wt. % of at least one base.
  • Non-limiting examples can include compounds that improve or eradicate age spots, keratosis, and wrinkles; exfoliates, analgesics; anesthetics; antiacne agents; antibacterials; antiyeast agents; antifungal agents; antiviral agents; antidandruff agents; antidermatitis agents; antipruritic agents; antiemetics; antiinflammatory agents; antihyperkeratolytic agents; moisturizers; antiperspirants; antipsoriatic agents; antiseborrheic agents; hair conditioners and hair treatment agents; antiaging agents; antiasthmatic agents and bronchodilators; sunscreen agents; antihistamine agents; skin lightening agents; depigmenting agents; vitamins; corticosteroids; tanning agents; hormones; retinoids; topical cardiovascular agents, and other dermatologicals.
  • other active components may be present up to about 15 wt. %, preferably up to about 10 wt. %, and more preferably up to about 5 wt. %. More specifically, the instant skin care compositions can have 0 to 15 wt. %, preferably 0 to 10 wt. %, and even more preferably 0 to 5 wt. % of additional active components.
  • the skin care compositions can have water present, in preferred embodiments, the compositions can have less than 1 wt. %, more preferably 0.5 wt. % or less, even more preferably 0.25 wt. % or less, and most preferably 0.1 wt. % or less of water.
  • the skin care compositions can be relatively anhydrous with no water present up to less than 1 wt. %, more preferably less than 0.5 wt. %, even more preferably less than 0.1 wt. %, including residual water.
  • the skin care compositions can have at least one water scavenger, including, but not limited to fumed silica, aluminosilicate, aluminum silicate, including magnesium aluminum silicate, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, and combinations thereof.
  • the water scavenger can be present up to about 15 wt. %, preferably up to about 10 wt. %, and more preferably up to about 5 wt. %.
  • Various surfactants, emulsifiers, gelling agents, stabilizers, plasticizers, rheology agents, and combinations thereof can be added to the instant skin care compositions.
  • at least one surfactant can be added to homogenize the skin care compositions, as well as increase the miscibility between the non-aqueous solvent and base.
  • the surfactants, emulsifiers, gelling agents, stabilizers, plasticizers, rheology agents, and combinations thereof can be present up to about 15 wt. %, and preferably up to about 10 wt. %.
  • the skin care compositions can have AHAs present. While the amount of the AHAs can generally be less than the amount of the cyclic diesters, the instant compositions can have up to about 5 wt. % of AHAs present, more preferably up to about 2.5 wt. % of AHAs present, and even more preferably up to about 1 wt. % of AHAs present. Specifically preferred AHAs can include glycolic acid, lactic acid, or combinations thereof.
  • the AHAs can be added to the compositions in addition to the cyclic diesters, or the AHAs can be produced by the hydrolyzation of the cyclic diesters of the alpha hydroxy acids.
  • the amount of AHAs present should be relatively low and in accordance with the ranges above.
  • inactive compounds such as, but not limited to colorants, fragrances, abrasive compounds, including silica dioxide, polymeric resins, clays, and combinations thereof can be added to the skin care compositions.
  • the inactive compounds may be present up to about 5 wt. %, preferably up to about 2.5 wt. %, and more preferably up to about 1 wt. %.
  • the instant skin care compositions can have 0 to 5 wt. %, preferably 0 to 2.5 wt. %, and even more preferably 0 to 1 wt. % of the inactive compounds.
  • the current skin care compositions can be made in a variety of ways, including in a continuous process or in a batch process.
  • all of the components including the cyclic diester of an alpha hydroxy acid, the polar non-aqueous solvent, and the aliphatic base can be added together at the same time in the amounts previously indicated.
  • certain components can be added together first with other components added subsequently.
  • the skin care compositions can be made by adding at least one cyclic diester of an alpha hydroxy acid, at least one polar non-aqueous solvent, and at least one aliphatic base together to form a substantially homogenous mixture.
  • the substantially homogenous mixture can have less than 5 wt. %, more preferably less than 1 wt. %, even more preferably less than 0.5 wt. %, and most preferably less than 0.1 wt. % of the cyclic diester of an alpha hydroxy acid, the polar non-aqueous solvent, and/or the aliphatic base in a separate phase than the mixture.
  • the components can be heated, including heating the components to make a substantially homogenous mixture.
  • the cyclic diester, polar non-aqueous solvent, and aliphatic base can be heated to the melting point of the aliphatic base.
  • the aliphatic base can be heated to the melting point of the base, and then the aliphatic base can be added to a mixture of the cyclic diester and solvent.
  • the acidity test determined the amount of acid formation in a tested example and was performed by titration.
  • a Mettler Toledo DL58 Titrator apparatus equipped with a Mettler Toledo DM140-SC electrode was used to perform the potentiometric titration to determine the acidity of the tested example.
  • the titrant consisted of 71 wt. % of toluene, 19 wt. % of methanol, and 10 wt. % of 1N tetrabutylammonium hydroxide. The titration was run at room temperature, which means at about 20° C.
  • the acid formation results are reported as the weight percentage of acid from the conversion of glycolide or lactide into the acidic, non-cyclic dimer form and glycolic acid or lactic acid, respectively.
  • the weight percentage of acid is calculated based on the molecular weight of glycolic acid or lactic acid, respectively.
  • the aging test simulates storage stability. Each example tested was split into a room temperature sample (“R.T.”) and an aged sample (“Aged”). The aged samples were placed in a VWR 1410 oven at 54° C. for fourteen (14) days, after which the aged samples were removed from the oven and tested for the amount of acid formation using the Acidity Test. The room temperature samples were tested without oven aging for the amount of acid formation using the Acidity Test.
  • the skin penetration test determined the deposition, penetration, and conversion of the tested cyclic ester into the corresponding alpha hydroxy acids in the outer layers of ex vivo porcine skin by using attenuated total reflectance (ATR)-FTIR spectroscopy and tape stripping. The resulting absorbance reported was determined at 1766 cm-1.
  • the FTIR spectrometer used was a Nicolet 700 FT-IR from Thermo Electron Corporation. Scotch® MagicTM Tape was used for the tape stripping, which is available from 3M, St. Paul, Minn., USA.
  • DMI dimethyl isosorbide, also known as isosorbide dimethyl ether, which is available from Grant Industries Inc., Elmwood Park, N.J., USA.
  • Glycolic Acid is DuPontTM Glypure® glycolic acid, which is available from E. I. Du Pont de Nemours & Co. Inc., Wilmington, Del., USA.
  • Glycolide is a C 4 cyclic diester formed from glycolic acid having a purity of at least 99 wt. %.
  • Lactic Acid is Lactic Acid, which is available from JM Baker, Japan.
  • Lactide is L-Lactide, which is available from TCI Tokyo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd, Tokyo, Japan.
  • Water is deionized water.
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared by adding 85 g of petroleum jelly, 10 g of dimethyl isosorbide, and 5 g of glycolide into a mixing container and heating the components to 50° C.
  • the petroleum jelly started to liquefy, the petroleum jelly, dimethyl isosorbide, and glycolide were mixed together at 50° C. using a Lightnin overhead mixer equipped with a 3-blade tilted paddle until a homogenous mixture was obtained. After a homogenous mixture was formed at 50° C., the heat was removed and mixing continued until the homogenous mixture became too viscous to stir.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, with the exceptions that 1 g of water was added to the petroleum jelly, dimethyl isosorbide, and glycolide, and 84 g of petroleum jelly was used.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, with the exceptions that 5 g of water was added to the petroleum jelly, dimethyl isosorbide, and glycolide, and 80 g of petroleum jelly was used.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, with the exception that 5 g of glycolic acid was used instead of 5 g of glycolide.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 1, with the exception that 5 g of glycolic acid was used instead of 5 g of glycolide.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 2, with the exception that 5 g of glycolic acid was used instead of 5 g of glycolide.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared by adding 66 g of petroleum jelly, 32 g of mineral oil, and 2 g of glycolide into a mixing container and heating the components to 50° C.
  • the petroleum jelly started to liquefy, the petroleum jelly, mineral oil, and glycolide were mixed together at 50° C. using a Lightnin overhead mixer equipped with a 3-blade tilted paddle until a homogenous mixture was obtained. After a homogenous mixture was formed at 50° C., the heat was removed and mixing continued until the homogenous mixture became too viscous to stir.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 6, with the exceptions that 1 g of water was added to the petroleum jelly, mineral oil, and glycolide, and 65 g of petroleum jelly was used.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 6, with the exceptions that 5 g of water was added to the petroleum jelly, mineral oil, and glycolide, and 61 g of petroleum jelly was used.
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 1. The homogenous mixture was then tested for acidity, the results of which are reported in Table 3.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 1.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 2.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 3.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 4.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 5.
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, with the exceptions that 75 g of petroleum jelly and 15 g of glycolide were used instead of 85 g and 5 g, respectively.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 3, with the exception that 15 g of glycolic acid was used instead of 15 g of glycolide.
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 1, with the exception that 5 g of lactide was used instead of 5 g of glycolide. The homogenous mixture was then tested for acidity, the results of which are reported in Table 4.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 1, with the exception that 5 g of lactide was used instead of 5 g of glycolide.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 2, with the exception that 5 g of lactide was used instead of 5 g of glycolide.
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 3, with the exception that 15 g of lactide was used instead of 15 g of glycolide. The homogenous mixture was then tested for acidity, the results of which are reported in Table 4.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as Comparative Example 14, with the exception that 15 g of lactic acid was used instead of 15 g of glycolic acid.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as described in Example 6, with the exceptions that 95 g of petroleum jelly and 0 g of dimethyl isosorbide were used.
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared by adding 90 g of petroleum jelly, 5 g of dimethyl isosorbide, and 5 g of glycolide into a mixing container and heating the components to 50° C.
  • the petroleum jelly started to liquefy, the petroleum jelly, dimethyl isosorbide, and glycolide were mixed together at 50° C. using a Lightnin overhead mixer equipped with a 3-blade tilted paddle until a homogenous mixture was obtained. After a homogenous mixture was formed at 50° C., the heat was removed and mixing continued until the homogenous mixture became too viscous to stir.
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 6, with the exceptions that 85 g of petroleum jelly and 10 g of dimethyl isosorbide were used instead of 90 g and 5 g, respectively.
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 6, with the exceptions that 85 g of petroleum jelly and 10 g of glycolide were used instead of 90 g and 5 g, respectively.
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 6, with the exceptions that 80 g of petroleum jelly, 10 g of dimethyl isosorbide, and 10 g of glycolide were used instead of 90 g, 5 g, and 5 g, respectively.
  • the skin penetration of Examples 6-9 are shown above in Table 5 and illustrated in FIGS. 1-3 .
  • the absorbance for each skin layer was determined at 1766 cm-1, which is a region where glycolide absorbs well, while the non-cyclic dimer and glycolic acid absorb less. Accordingly, a skin layer demonstrating a higher absorbance value at 1766 cm-1 correlates to a higher concentration of glycolide at that skin layer.
  • the skin penetration properties can be determined by measuring the concentration of glycolide at various skin layers.
  • Examples 6 and 7, and Comparative Example 18, each contain 5 wt. % of glycolide. However, Examples 6 and 7, which have 5 wt. % and 10 wt. % of a polar non-aqueous solvent, respectively, show significantly better skin penetration properties versus Comparative Example 18, which does not have a polar non-aqueous solvent. See FIG. 1 . Specifically, Examples 6 and 7 have skin penetration rates that are approximately double that of Comparative Example 18 at the skin surface and in the first several skin layers. Example 7 demonstrates significantly improved skin penetration even in deeper skin layers.
  • Examples 6 and 8 which have 5 wt. % and 10 wt. % of glycolide, respectively, show significantly improved skin penetration properties versus the control when the amount of a polar non-aqueous solvent is controlled at 5 wt. %. See FIG. 2 .
  • the polar non-aqueous solvent is controlled at 10 wt. % in Examples 7 and 9, which have 5 wt. % and 10 wt. % of glycolide, respectively, significantly improved skin penetration properties versus the control are also shown. See FIG. 3 .
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 9. The homogenous mixture was then tested for skin penetration, the results of which are reported in Table 6.
  • a 100 g skin care composition was prepared in the same manner as Example 7. The homogenous mixture was then tested for skin penetration, the results of which are reported in Table 6.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as described in Example 6, with the exceptions that 99 g of petroleum jelly, 1 g of glycolide, and 0 g of dimethyl isosorbide were used.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as described in Comparative Example 6.
  • a 100 g comparative composition was prepared in the same manner as described in Comparative Example 6 with the exception that 2 g of lactide was used instead of 2 g of glycolide.
  • the normalized skin penetration data of Examples 10 and 11 are shown in Table 6 and illustrated in FIG. 4 .
  • the absorbance for each skin layer was determined at 1766 cm-1, which is a region where glycolide absorbs well, while the non-cyclic dimer and glycolic acid absorb less. Accordingly, a skin layer demonstrating a higher absorbance value at 1766 cm-1 correlates to a higher concentration of glycolide at that skin layer.
  • the skin penetration properties can be determined by measuring the concentration of glycolide at various skin layers.
  • Examples 10 and 11 each contain 10 wt. % of a polar non-aqueous solvent, and 10 wt. % and 5 wt. % of glycolide, respectively. Both Examples 10 and 11 have significantly better skin penetration properties versus Comparative Examples 19-21, which do not have a polar non-aqueous solvent. Specifically, when normalized, Examples 10 and 11 demonstrate better skin penetration properties in all the tested skin layers, especially at the skin surface and first several skin layers.

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