JP5591449B2 - 毛髪処理剤用の酸化剤含有組成物 - Google Patents
毛髪処理剤用の酸化剤含有組成物 Download PDFInfo
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- JP5591449B2 JP5591449B2 JP2008019780A JP2008019780A JP5591449B2 JP 5591449 B2 JP5591449 B2 JP 5591449B2 JP 2008019780 A JP2008019780 A JP 2008019780A JP 2008019780 A JP2008019780 A JP 2008019780A JP 5591449 B2 JP5591449 B2 JP 5591449B2
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- Prior art keywords
- hair
- agent
- trehalose
- pullulan
- red
- Prior art date
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- SZEMGTQCPRNXEG-UHFFFAOYSA-M trimethyl(octadecyl)azanium;bromide Chemical compound [Br-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C SZEMGTQCPRNXEG-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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Description
<過酸化水素の安定化に及ぼすプルランの影響>
過酸化水素の安定化に及ぼすプルランの影響を調べる試験を以下のように行った。
表1に示す配合処方より染毛処理剤の第1剤(以下、「染毛第1剤」という。)と、表2に示す配合処方により10種類の染毛処理剤の第2剤(以下、「染毛第2剤」という。)とを調製した。この染毛第2剤を調製後、50℃の恒温槽で4週間保存した。なお、プルランは平均分子量200,000ダルトンのもの(株式会社林原生物化学研究所販売、化粧品用)を使用した。また、α,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体として、国際公開WO 2004/071472号明細書の実施例5に記載された方法に準じて、試薬級マルトテトラオースに、特開平7−143876号公報に開示された非還元性糖質生成酵素を作用させ、さらにβ−アミラーゼを作用させて未反応のマルトテトラオースを分解した後、アルカリ金属型強酸性カチオン交換樹脂を用いて精製した、純度98.1%のα−マルトシルα,α−トレハロースを使用した。なお、以下の実験及び実施例における各配合成分の配合量は何れも%で示し、過酸化水素、アンモニア水、チオグリコール酸アンモニウムは、各々、その水溶液の配合量で示す。
染毛第2剤中の過酸化水素量を測定し、製造直後の過酸化水素量を100とした相対値を求め、過酸化水素残存率(%)として表2に示す。さらに、パネラーとして白髪の人100名をランダムに、10名ずつ10のグループに分け、染毛処理試験を行った。すなわち、上記染毛第1剤と10種類の染毛第2剤の何れか1種を混合比(質量比)1:1.5で、ノズル付きの容器に入れて混合して染毛処理剤の標品を調製した。この10種類の染毛処理剤の(標品1乃至標品10)の何れか1種を吐出させた泡100gを、それぞれ10名のパネラーの毛髪全体に塗布し、30分間放置した後、軽く水洗、シャンプーすることにより毛髪の染色を行った。染毛処理後、下記の6項目について、下記の基準で評価し、各評価項目について、10名中最も多くのパネラーが評価した評価基準を、その項目の評価として表2に併せて示す。なお、何れの標品を使用した場合にも、10名中8名以上のパネラーが同一の評価基準と評価した。
<評価基準>
<塗布性(塗りやすさ、髪へのなじみやすさ)>
◎:毛髪の上に泡を押し当てるだけで根元までしっかり剤がなじむ
○:手グシで簡単に剤を根元までなじませることができる
△:毛量の多い後頭部の根元等、場所によって剤がなじみにくい場合がある
×:なじみが悪く、根元などを塗り残す
<コンディショニング効果>
◎:染毛後,髪のきしみがなく,極めて滑らかな仕上りが得られる
○:染毛後,髪のきみしがほとんどなく,滑らかな仕上りが得られる
×:染毛後,髪のきしみ,ごわつきが少しある
<染色性>
◎:極めて濃く染色できる
○:濃く染色できる
△:薄くしか染色されない
×:染色されない
<染色の均一性>
◎:染色ムラがなく極めて均一に染色できる
○:ほとんど染色ムラがなく均一に染色できる
△:若干の染色ムラがある
×:染色ムラが大きい
<毛髪のつや>
◎:非常につやがある
○:つやがある
△:あまりつやがない
×:つやがほとんどない
<毛髪の感触>
◎:非常になめらかでしっとり感がある
○:なめらかでしっとり感がある
△:少しなめらかさに欠けている
×:ぱさついて、なめらかさが感じられない
<過酸化水素の安定化に及ぼすα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体の影響>
過酸化水素の安定化に及ぼすα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体の影響を調べる試験を以下のように行った。
実験1と同様に、表1に示す配合処方より染毛第1剤を調製した。また、表3に示す配合処方により9種類の染毛第2剤を調製後、50℃の恒温槽で4週間保存した。なお、プルラン及びα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体は、実験1で使用したものを使用した。
実験1と同様に、染毛第2剤中の過酸化水素量を測定し、製造直後の過酸化水素量を100とした相対値を求め過酸化水素残存率(%)として表3に示す。さらに、パネラーとして白髪の人90名をランダムに、10名ずつ9のグループに分け、染毛処理試験を行った。すなわち、上記染毛第1剤と9種類の染毛第2剤の何れか1種を混合比(質量比)1:1.5で、ノズル付きの容器に入れて混合して染毛処理剤の標品を調製した。この9種類の染毛処理剤の標品(標品1乃至9)の何れか1種を吐出させた泡100gを、それぞれ10名のパネラーの毛髪全体に塗布し、30分間放置した後、軽く水洗、シャンプーすることにより毛髪の染色を行った。染毛処理後、実験1と同じ評価項目について、実験1と同じ基準により評価して、その結果を表3に併せて示す。
<過酸化水素の安定化に及ぼすα,α−トレハロースの影響>
過酸化水素の安定化に及ぼすα,α−トレハロースの影響を調べる試験を以下のように行った。
実験1と同様に、表1に示す配合処方より染毛第1剤を調製した。また、表4に示す配合処方により9種類の染毛第2剤を調製後、50℃の恒温槽で4週間保存した。なお、プルランは、実験1で使用したものと同じものを使用した。また、α,α−トレハロースは市販の化粧品用トレハロース(株式会社林原生物化学研究所販売)を使用した。
実験1と同様に、染毛第2剤中の過酸化水素量を測定し、製造直後の過酸化水素量を100とした相対値を求め過酸化水素残存率(%)として表4に示す。さらに、パネラーとして白髪の人90名をランダムに、10名ずつ9のグループに分け、染毛処理試験を行った。すなわち、上記染毛第1剤と9種類の染毛第2剤の何れか1種とを混合比(質量比)1:1.5で、ノズル付きの容器に入れて混合し、染毛処理剤の標品を調製した。この9種類の染毛処理剤の標品(標品1乃至9)の何れか1種を吐出させた泡100gを、それぞれ10名のパネラーの毛髪全体に塗布し、30分間放置した後、軽く水洗、シャンプーすることにより毛髪の染色を行った。染毛処理後、実験1と同じ評価項目について、実験1と同じ基準により評価して、その結果を表4に併せて示す。
表5に示す配合処方に基づき、染毛第1剤と染毛第2剤を調製し、実験1と同じ方法で染毛処理剤を調製した(実施例1)。対照として、α,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質及び/又はプルランを含まない表5に示す配合処方の染毛処理剤を調製した(比較例1乃至3)。各々の処方の染毛処理剤を用いて、実験1と同様に、それぞれ白髪の10名のパネラーの毛髪を処理し、実験1と同じ評価項目について、同じ評価方法で評価して、その結果を表5に併せて示す。さらに、下記に示す方法により、これらの染毛処理剤を切除した毛髪の束(以下、「毛束」という。)に塗布した際の、平均摩擦係数及び摩擦係数変動を求め、プルラン及びα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質無添加の染毛処理剤(比較例3)を塗布したときの測定値を100とした相対値を求めて表5に併せて示す。なお、本実施例では、プルランは、平均分子量約200,000ダルトン(株式会社林原生物化学研究所販売、化粧品用)を使用した。また、α,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質は、固形分換算で、α−マルトシルα,α−トレハロースを約53%、これ以外のα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体を約12%、マルチトール、マルトトリイトール、マルトテトライトールなどのマルトオリゴ糖の糖アルコールを合計で約35%含有するシラップ(株式会社林原生物化学研究所販売、商品名「トルナーレ」)を使用した。また、染毛第2剤は、実験1と同一条件で2ヶ月間保存したものを使用した。
<平均摩擦係数及び摩擦係数変動の測定方法>
ヒトの毛束を、表5に示す配合の実施例1或いは比較例1乃至3の染毛処理剤で、パネラーの毛髪と同様に処理した。この毛束を、テンシロン万能試験機(株式会社エー・アンド・ディ販売、型番「RTC−1325A」)を使用して、毛束上で毛根方向から毛先方向へ接触子を一定の速度(30mm/分)で牽引したときの荷重を測定して、平均摩擦係数及び摩擦係数変動を計算した。荷重は、毛束を、接触子と接触させる面を、90度ずつ時計回りに回転させて、4面について測定した。測定は、室温20℃、湿度65%の環境下で行った。接触子は底面3cm×3cm、質量約27gのものを使用し、毛束との接触面(底面)には、人工皮革(出光テクノファイン株式会社販売、製品名「サプラーレ」)を両面テープで貼り付けて使用した。
実施例1の染毛第2剤のα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質5%配合に代えてα,α−トレハロース3%、或いは、α,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質1%とα,α−トレハロース4%となるように配合した以外は同一の組成の2種類の染毛処理剤を調製した。これらの染毛処理剤は、何れも過酸化水素の分解が抑制され、染色性及び使用感に優れている。
実施例1の染毛第1剤に、α,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質を5%及び/又はプルランを0.3%配合した以外は同一の組成の3種類の染毛処理剤を調製した。これらの染毛処理剤は、染毛第1剤にα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質及びプルランを配合していないもの(実施例1)に比して、何れも染色性及び使用感に優れている。
表6に示す配合処方に基づき、毛髪の脱色・脱染用処理剤の第1剤(以下、「脱色第1剤」という。)と第2剤(以下、「脱色第2剤」という。)(実施例4及び比較例4乃至6)とを調製した。この脱色第1剤と脱色第2剤を混合比(質量比)1:1.5で、ノズル付きの容器に入れて混合して毛髪の脱色・脱染用処理剤の標品を調製した。この脱色・脱染用処理剤の何れか1種を吐出させた泡100gを、それぞれ、黒髪の10名のパネラーの毛髪全体に塗布し、30分間放置した後、軽く水洗、シャンプーすることにより毛髪の脱色を行った。塗布性、コンディショニング効果、毛髪のつや及び毛髪の感触については、実験1と同じ評価方法で、泡立ち、泡持ち、脱色性、脱色の均一性については下記に示す評価基準で評価して、その結果を表6に併せて示す。なお、プルラン及びα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質は実施例1と同じものを使用した。脱色第2剤は、実験1と同じ条件で2ヶ月間保存したものを使用した。
<泡立ち>
◎:極めて均一できめ細かい泡
○:均一できめ細かい泡
△:不均一できめが粗い泡
×:泡になりきれず、水分が混じる
<泡持ち>
◎:非常に持続性が長く、放置時まで泡が持続する
○:十分な持続性を有し、塗布後もしばらく泡が持続する
△:塗布する上で問題のない持続性を有するが、塗布した後すぐに泡が消える
×:吐出後すぐに泡が消え、塗布中に液ダレを生じることがある
<脱色性>
◎:極めてよく脱色できる
○:よく脱色できる
△:少しか脱色されない
×:脱色されない
<脱色の均一性>
◎:脱色ムラがなく極めて均一に染色できる
○:ほとんど脱色ムラがなく均一に染色できる
△:若干の脱色ムラがある
×:脱色ムラが大きい
実施例4の脱色第2剤のα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質4%に代えてα,α−トレハロース2%、或いは、α,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質1%とα,α−トレハロース0.5%とを配合した以外は同一の組成の2種類の脱色・脱染用処理剤を調製した。これらの脱色・脱染用処理剤は、何れも過酸化水素の分解が抑制され、脱色・脱染性及び使用感に優れている。
表7に示す配合処方に基づき、パーマネントウェーブ用処理剤の第1剤(以下、「パーマネント第1剤」という。)と第2剤(以下、「パーマネント第2剤」という。)(実施例6及び比較例7乃至9)とを調製した。このパーマネント第1剤とパーマネント第2剤を使用し、常法により、それぞれ10名のパネラーの毛髪にパーマネント処理を施した。これらのパーマネント第1剤及び第2剤の塗布性、パーマネントウェーブ用処理剤処理後のコンディショニング効果、毛髪のつや、毛髪の感触については実験1と同じ評価方法で評価し、パーマネント効果は下記評価基準で評価して、その結果を表7に併せて示す。なお、プルラン及びα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質は実施例1と同じものを使用した。パーマネント第2剤は、実験1と同じ条件で2ヶ月間保存したものを使用した。また、パーマネント第1剤とパーマネント第2剤の塗布性の評価結果は、両者を使用したときの評価に差がなかったので、一つの欄にまとめて示した。
<パーマネント効果(ウェーブ形成又は縮毛及び癖毛の矯正)>
◎:極めて強い効果がある
○:強い効果がある
△:弱い効果しかない
×:効果がない
実施例6のパーマネント第2剤のα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質2%に代えてα,α−トレハロース2%、或いは、α,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質0.5%とα,α−トレハロース0.5%とを配合した以外は同一の組成の2種類のパーマネントウェーブ用処理剤を調製した。これらのパーマネントウェーブ用処理剤は、何れも過酸化水素の分解が抑制され、パーマネントウェーブ形成又は縮毛及び癖毛の矯正効果に優れている。
実施例6のパーマネントウェーブ第1剤にα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質2%及び/又はプルラン1.0%を配合した以外は同一の組成の3種類のパーマネントウェーブ用処理剤を調製した。これらのパーマネントウェーブ用処理剤は、パーマネントウェーブ第1剤にα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体含有糖質及びプルランを配合していない処理剤(実施例6)に較べて、何れも過酸化水素の分解が抑制され、パーマネントウェーブ形成又は縮毛及び癖毛の矯正効果に優れている。
Claims (3)
- 酸化剤を0.01質量%乃至15質量%、平均分子量が5,000〜1,000,000ダルトンのプルラン(但し、他の多糖類を含まない)を0.01質量%乃至5質量%、α,α−トレハロース及び/又はα,α−トレハロースの糖質誘導体(但し、還元性糖質を含まない)を合計で5.0質量%乃至15質量%、及び、水を50質量%乃至98質量%含有することを特徴とする、染毛処理又は毛髪脱色・脱染処理用の酸化剤含有組成物。
- さらに、糖アルコール類、カチオン性高分子化合物及び界面活性剤から選ばれる何れか1種又は2種以上の化合物を含有する請求項1に記載の酸化剤含有組成物。
- 糖アルコール類が、エリスリトール、キシリトール、ソルビトール、マルチトール、マルトトリイトール、及びマルトテトライトールから選ばれる何れか1種又は2種以上である請求項2に記載の酸化剤含有組成物。
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