EP3583261B1 - Système de couture et procédé de couture pour la production de points de couture - Google Patents

Système de couture et procédé de couture pour la production de points de couture Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3583261B1
EP3583261B1 EP18709257.2A EP18709257A EP3583261B1 EP 3583261 B1 EP3583261 B1 EP 3583261B1 EP 18709257 A EP18709257 A EP 18709257A EP 3583261 B1 EP3583261 B1 EP 3583261B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
seam
sewing
clamping device
pressure bar
thread
Prior art date
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Application number
EP18709257.2A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3583261A1 (fr
Inventor
Markus Immetsberger
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH
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Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH
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Publication of EP3583261A1 publication Critical patent/EP3583261A1/fr
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B65/00Devices for severing the needle or lower thread
    • D05B65/02Devices for severing the needle or lower thread controlled by the sewing mechanisms

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a sewing system with at least one lockstitch sewing machine for producing at least one seam on a material to be sewn, in particular for producing at least one dart on the material to be sewn, the sewing system being provided with a driven material transport for a specific or determinable feed direction of the material to be sewn relative to stitch forming tools which is provided for producing the at least one seam on the respective material to be sewn, the material transport having a pressure bar with which the material to be sewn can be pressed against a sewing table and the material to be sewn can be moved past the stitch-forming tools to generate a feed movement.
  • a corresponding sewing system is, for example, from WO 01/90467 A2 known.
  • darts are to be worked in by introducing at least one straight or curved seam.
  • the darts usually have the function of changing a contour of the respective item of clothing, for example, to waist a shirt or a blouse.
  • such darts represent an additional sewing process that is usually carried out separately in industrial production, i.e. independently of other sewing processes on the item of clothing.
  • sewing systems specially provided for this purpose which include a lockstitch sewing machine.
  • the items of clothing are therefore brought to the sewing system for the production of darts, processed there accordingly and then transported to a machine for subsequent further processing steps.
  • the material to be sewn is usually introduced manually into the sewing system.
  • the feed of the material to be sewn relative to the stitch-forming tools, in particular to the needle and needle bar and the gripper of the sewing machine of the sewing unit, is generated by a motor and without the need for operator intervention.
  • the material to be sewn is usually advanced to produce a darts straight.
  • the length of the feed movement required can vary.
  • the material to be sewn is often clamped onto a table top by means of a pressure bar, with the pressure bar usually being movable in the XY direction. After the end of the sewing process on the respective material to be sewn, it is picked up by a removal device and taken out of the sewing unit in the feed direction of the sewing process and deposited at a stacking point.
  • a buttonhole sewing machine which is designed as a zigzag sewing machine and the design of which is intended to enable an improved quality of buttonholes.
  • the buttonhole sewing machine has a thread cutting and clamping device for the beginning of the thread, which can be moved in the initial area of the first buttonhole bead synchronously with a presser basket in the direction of the sewing needle in order to avoid the build-up of thread tension in the area of the needle thread end held clamped.
  • a thread cutting and clamping device is provided which is fastened to a presser basket functioning as a sewing foot and has a stationary lower cutter, a pivotable upper cutter and a thread clamping plate resting on the upper cutter.
  • the The thread cutting and clamping device moves synchronously with the presser basket, whereby the thread end clamped on the needle side is kept tension-free and thus covered by the first zigzag stitches of the first buttonhole bead.
  • the end of the thread is then released from the thread cutting and clamping device by a movement of the upper knife and completely covered by the following zigzag stitches.
  • the presser basket is lifted and the thread cutting and clamping device is moved from the waiting position to the cutting position.
  • the needle thread is cut like scissors above the buttonhole and the thread end piece on the needle side is held clamped between the upper knife and the thread clamping plate.
  • the invention is therefore based on the object of creating a possibility for darts to enable a seam start with no stitch formation errors and nevertheless a short thread start, without manual post-processing being required for this.
  • the beginning of the thread cannot be pulled down under the material to be sewn during sewing, and a clean stitch pattern can also be achieved at the beginning of the seam.
  • the seam has a short beginning of the thread, which makes it unnecessary to subsequently shorten the beginning of the thread at the seam.
  • the beginning of the thread is preferably already shortened shortly after sewing and above all during the sewing process that is still being carried out, without the sewing process necessarily having to be interrupted or slowed down for this purpose.
  • the sewing unit has a switchable cutting element that can be moved in and out in an area between the clamping device and the sewing material by at least one switching operation in a feed path of the upper thread on the sewing material in order to cut through the upper thread in this area. Since in this embodiment of the invention the cutting element is only briefly in the area of the sewn material, the risk of damage to the sewn material by the cutting element can be kept as low as possible despite the cutting process in the immediate vicinity of the sewn material.
  • the cutting element can also be just a single blade with preferably only one cutting edge, which comes into contact with the upper thread as a result of being arranged in the feed path of the sewing material.
  • the feed movement of the sewing material - and thus also of the upper thread that has already been sewn - is thus used to shorten the free beginning of the thread already during the creation of the seam, without interrupting the sewing process itself and without performing a cutting movement with the cutting element.
  • this preferred embodiment of the invention no longer requires more time for the execution of the sewing process.
  • the feed movement of the sewing material is also used to generate a relative movement between the cutting element and the upper thread that leads to the cutting of the upper thread.
  • a particularly favorable development of the invention can provide that, in order to produce a dart on a sewn material that is processed later, the needle thread is severed during or after the end of the sewing process for the dart on a previously processed sewn material, the previously processed sewn material from the sewing system is removed, the pressure bar is moved back into its receiving position and the opened clamping device is arranged in such a way that the free end of the upper thread is arranged in the clamping device due to the movement and positioning of the pressure bar, the clamping device is subsequently closed and then with the start of the sewing process for the sewing material now waiting for processing is started with the clamping device still closed.
  • the upper thread can be arranged in the clamping device in a particularly quick and process-reliable manner, without a further process step or additional physical means being required for this.
  • pressure bar should also be understood to mean pressure elements that have a design other than bar-shaped in order to clamp the sewing material or press it against a worktop of the sewing unit.
  • switch-forming tools are to be understood in particular as needles and, if appropriate, the needle bars and grippers that guide them, such as are customary in lockstitch sewing machines in particular for guiding upper and lower threads.
  • the exemplary embodiment shown of a sewing system 1 according to the invention for producing darts has a sewing machine 3 arranged on a worktop 2 .
  • the sewing machine 3 is a lockstitch sewing machine.
  • Such a sewing machine is provided with stitch-forming tools, which are known per se, including above all at least one needle for an upper thread, which is arranged on a needle bar and guided by it, and a rotary hook for a lower thread.
  • stitch-forming tools which are known per se, including above all at least one needle for an upper thread, which is arranged on a needle bar and guided by it, and a rotary hook for a lower thread.
  • the stitch-forming processes using the stitch-forming tools also take place in a conventional manner known per se for lockstitch sewing machines.
  • the sewing machine 3 with its stitch-forming tools is arranged in the area of a longitudinal edge 4 of the worktop 2 and transversely to this longitudinal edge 4 .
  • a feed table 7 is located in the area of this longitudinal edge 4, starting from the corner 6 formed by the longitudinal edge 4 and a transverse edge 5 of the worktop.
  • the feed table 7 is used to receive blanks 9 and then transfer the respective blank 9 to a predetermined position on the worktop 2, from where the blank 9 is then automatically fed to the sewing process.
  • the feed table 7 can be moved toward the worktop 2 and reset again either manually or by a motor.
  • the material transfer 10 has, among other things, the function of an alignment aid for the respective blank in relation to the length of the Blank 9 in a direction transverse to the longitudinal edge 4 during the sewing process.
  • the material transfer has a drive 12 with which an angle 14 of the material transfer running parallel to the longitudinal edge 4 of the worktop 2 can be displaced parallel to this longitudinal edge 4 .
  • this drive 12 is designed as a spindle stepper motor, the rotary drive movement of which leads to a linear displacement movement of the angle 14 by means of a suitable gear, as a result of which different depth arrangements of a blank can be set.
  • This depth of adjustment can at a Control of the sewing unit 1 are preset, whereby the drive executes this input before a sewing process or a series of sewing processes.
  • a needle bar 16 which can be moved up and down by means of a pneumatic drive and whose needles are directed towards corresponding recesses in the worktop 2 which are located directly in front of the horizontal leg 14a of the bracket 14 .
  • the blank 9 can be held in place between the needle bar 16 and the worktop 2 by a downward movement of the needle bar 16 .
  • the feed device 11 is provided for receiving the respective sewn material 9 for the sewing process and for advancing the sewn material 9 during the sewing process.
  • the feed direction 19 can run at least in a rectilinear direction parallel to the level of the essentially flat upper side of the worktop 2 .
  • the feed direction 19 can be moved in an X-Y plane parallel to the upper side of the worktop 2.
  • the feed device 11 of the exemplary embodiment is provided with a pressure bar 18 that can be moved along the feed direction 19, with which the respective material to be sewn 9 is picked up and can be moved relative to the stitch-forming tools.
  • the pressure bar 18 can thus be moved in the feed direction 19 from a first to a second end position, the sewing material being inserted and picked up in the first end position and removed in the second end position.
  • the first end position corresponds to the position of the blank which it has when the feed device 11 takes over the blank from the material take-over 10 before the feed device 11 moves in the feed direction 19 .
  • the second end position corresponds to the position of the feed device 11 or the blank 9, which this / this assumes after the end of the movement of the feed device 11 on the other side of the sewing machine 3, after the intended seam has been introduced into the sewing material 9.
  • a return from the second to the first end position is preferably carried out directly, ie along a distance line between the second and the first end position.
  • a drive can be provided for each of the two feed directions to carry out feed movements of the pressure bar 18, in particular an electric stepping motor in each case. By superimposing the drive movements of the two stepping motors, any predetermined feed movement within the XY plane can be achieved.
  • this drive of the pressure bar 18 is designed as a pneumatic cylinder.
  • a gap for receiving or for the subsequent removal of the sewing material 9 is released between the pressure bar 18 and a counter-plate arranged below it, which is referred to below as the table top.
  • the material to be sewn can be clamped between the table top and the pressure bar 18 by lowering the pressure bar 18 .
  • the top of the worktop 2 serves as such a tabletop.
  • the pressure bar 18 In its first end position, the pressure bar 18 is located - seen in the feed direction - at least with the section provided for receiving the sewing material, essentially in front of the sewing machine 3 and its stitch formation tools, so that the respective sewing material 9 is in front of the stitch formation tools in a predetermined manner before the start of the sewing process can be arranged and clamped. During the sewing process, the pressure bar 18 moves in the direction of the second end position and in doing so guides the sewing material 9 with it and the stitch-forming tools for seam formation. In the second end position, the pressure bar 18 is located behind the sewing machine and its stitch-forming tools together with the material to be sewn.
  • a clamping device 25 is attached to the pressure bar 18 and can be moved together with the pressure bar 18 during the feed movement.
  • the clamping device 25 is arranged on the pressure bar 18 in such a way that, in relation to the X-direction of the possible feed movements, the clamping device 25 is at least approximately at the height of the sewing foot 28 located.
  • the clamping device 25 has a clamping element 26 with a flat clamping surface which can be pressed against a counter-clamping element 27 .
  • the clamping element 25 can be automatically pressed against the counter-clamping element 27 and lifted again by a drive assigned to it alone, for example an electric motor or a pneumatic drive. By means of this movement, the free thread beginning 30a of the upper thread 30 guided through the needle 29 can be pressed by the clamping element 26 against the counter-clamping element 27 .
  • the sewing unit with a
  • Cutting device 33 for shortening the beginning of the thread 30a of the upper thread 30 is provided.
  • the cutting device 33 has a cutting element 34 in the form of a blade, the cutting edge 35 of which runs essentially transversely to the X feed direction.
  • the cutting edge 35 is in this case formed on that side edge of the blade which, in relation to the X feed direction, represents the rear side edge of the blade.
  • the cutting element 34 is also provided with an associated drive, with which the cutting element 34 can be inserted and removed essentially transversely to the X feed direction and parallel to the Y feed direction in the vicinity of the needle.
  • the seam course to be created in 3 is indicated by the line 20, the sewing material 9 is placed on the feed table 7 and transferred to the material takeover 10 by means of the feed table 7.
  • the sewing material 9 can, for example, be a blank for a women's blouse.
  • the pressure bar 18 and the sewing foot 28 are at the top and the feed table 7 is extended.
  • the sewing material 9 is held in place by means of the material takeover 10 and the feed table 7 moves back to its starting position by means of a drive movement of its drive.
  • the sewing process can begin.
  • the pressure bar 18 is pressed downwards against the table top and the sewing material 9 by means of a pneumatic cylinder.
  • the XY drive of the pressure bar 18 then positions it at "seam start".
  • the free end 30a of the needle thread 30 lies above the counter-clamping element 27 of the pressure bar 18.
  • the free end 30a was cut during the preceding seam production on another sewing material under the throat plate as close as possible to the needle hole by means of a further cutting element (not shown) arranged below a throat plate.
  • a further cutting element not shown
  • the needle thread end 30a produced in this way should protrude from the needle 29 with such a length that reliable sewing on of the seam that is now to be produced is ensured.
  • the sewing foot 28 is not shown for reasons of clarity.
  • the pressure bar 18 moves the sewing material 9 in the feed direction, in the representation of FIG figure 5 from right to left.
  • the cutting element 34 of the cutting device 33 is actuated, as a result of which it is moved from a waiting position to a cutting position. This movement is effected by a feed movement from the waiting to the separating position, which is aligned essentially parallel to the Y-direction and perpendicular to the X-direction of the feed movement of the pressure bar 18 .
  • the movement of the cutting element 34 from its one end position to the other takes place after at least the first stitch of the sewing and stitch-forming process and before the last stitch of the seam-forming process has been carried out without interruption.
  • the cutting element 34 is moved with its cutting edge 35 into an area between the clamping device 25 and the sewing material 9 . Due to the progressive feed movement of the sewing material 9, the tensioned end area of the upper thread 30 is guided to the blade and against the cutting edge 35 pressed, which leads to the cutting of the upper thread 30 close to the first puncture point of the needle 29 and close to the sewing foot 28. In this way, a short initial piece of upper thread 30 remaining on sewing material 9 has been produced.
  • the cutting element is pulled back into its waiting position immediately after the upper thread 30 has been severed.
  • This retraction takes place automatically and is caused by the control of the sewing unit, for example as a function of a specific number of stitches after the cutting element 34 has been transferred to the separating position.
  • the clamping device 25 remains closed during the retraction of the cutting element 34 and thus continues to hold the severed thread end during the further sewing process. Since the clamping device 25 is attached to the pressure bar 18, the clamping device 25, together with the pressure bar 18, also carries out its feed movement. As a result, the clamping device 25 is also guided past a suction device 37 in the course of the feed movement.
  • the controller causes the clamping device 25 to open by pivoting the clamping element 26 and, with a pulse of suction air, the suction device 37 sucks off the severed thread remnant 30b that previously covered the free end 30a of the illustrated upper thread.
  • the seam is now sewn to completion.
  • the material to be sewn 9 can then be removed automatically or manually and the pressure bar 18 can be moved back to its starting position to receive a new cut/sewn material 9 .
  • the sewing process can then be repeated one or more times in the same way, each time with a new blank/sewing material 9 .

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Claims (14)

  1. Installation de couture (1) avec au moins une machine à coudre à double piqûre (3) pour produire
    van d'au moins une couture sur un article à coudre (9), en particulier pour la production d'une couture de qualité supérieure.
    au moins un dispositif de prélèvement sur le produit à coudre, l'installation de couture étant équipée d'un pied de couture (28) et d'un transport entraîné de la matière à coudre pour une direction d'avance déterminée ou déterminable (19) de l'article à coudre par rapport aux outils de formation de points qui est
    pour la réalisation d'au moins une couture sur le produit à coudre (9) respectif,
    le transport de l'article à coudre présentant une barre de pression (18) avec laquelle l'article à coudre est pressé contre un plateau de table. (2) drOckbar et la matière proche pour produire une
    d'avance peut être déplacé devant les outils de formation de points,
    caractérisé en ce que
    un dispositif de serrage (25) est disposé sur la barre de pression (18) et peut être déplacé en même temps que la barre de pression (18) lors de son mouvement d'avance, le dispositif de serrage (25) étant destiné à serrer un début de fil (25). (30a) du fil supérieur (30) et l'installation de couture présente un élément de coupe (34) qui, au moins temporairement, immédiatement après le début de la production de la couture, est placé dans un état de repos.
    Zone située entre le dispositif de serrage (25) et le joint de soudure (28), afin de de couper le fil supérieur entre le dispositif de serrage et le pied-de-biche.
  2. Installation de couture selon au moins une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que
    caractérisé en ce que le dispositif de serrage (25) est pourvu d'un élément d'entraînement et peut être actionné séparément de la barre de pression (18).
  3. Installation de couture selon au moins l'une des deux revendications précédentes,
    caractérisé en ce qu'un élément de serrage (26) du dispositif de serrage (25) peut pivoter autour d'un axe de pivotement pour le serrage du début du fil du fil supérieur (30).
  4. Installation de couture selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que l'axe de pivotement
    est orientée au moins sensiblement parallèlement à la direction d'avance X de la barre de pression (18).
  5. Installation de suture selon la revendication 3 ou 4, caractérisée par un agencement du
    de serrage (26), par laquelle l'élément de serrage (26) le fil à la barre de pression, en particulier sur un élément de serrage opposé (27) de la barre de pression (18), fixé.
  6. Installation de couture selon au moins l'une des revendications
    précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'élément de coupe (34) peut être commuté pour passer d'une position de coupe à une position de coupe.
    Le système d'information de l'entreprise permet de passer d'une position d'attente à une position de séparation et inversement.
  7. Installation de couture selon au moins une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que
    caractérisé en ce que l'élément de coupe (34) peut être déplacé essentiellement transversalement à la direction d'avance X de la barre de pression (18) pour arriver dans une position de séparation.
  8. Installation de couture selon au moins l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'élément de coupe (34) est une lame unique qui est placée au moins temporairement dans le trajet d'avance de l'élément de coupe (34) entre le dispositif de serrage (25) et l'élément de coupe (34). et le matériau de couture (9).
  9. Procédé pour la production d'un peigne sur un produit proche (9) au moyen d'une Machine de réception à double point noué avec un pied de biche (28), dans laquelle le produit à coudre (9) est placé dans une installation de couture (1). est introduite, au moyen d'un transport de proximité entraîné avec une direction d'avance déterminée ou déterminable du matériau de couture (9) par rapport aux outils de formation de points, qui sont utilisés pour réaliser au moins une couture sur le (9) est prévu, le produit à coudre (9) étant alors transporté à l'aide d'une machine à coudre. la barre de pression (18) sur un plateau de table (2) de l'installation de couture et les au moins une couture pour la réalisation de l'arrachage est réalisée dans le produit à coudre (9) de telle manière que que la barre de pression (18) pousse l'article à coudre dans une direction d'avancement (19), de préférence dans une direction d'avance variable, aux outils de formation de points de la machine à coudre double piqûre,
    caractérisé en ce que
    au moment du début de la formation de la couture, le début du fil du fil supérieur (30) est fixé au moyen d'une barre de pression (18) reliée à la barre de pression (18) et qui est fixée au fil supérieur (30).
    est serré en même temps que ce dispositif de serrage mobile (25), et immédiatement après le rapprochement du fil supérieur et du fil inférieur de la matière à coudre, un élément de coupe (34) se trouve dans une position de séparation, afin de séparer le fil supérieur (30) entre le dispositif de serrage (25) et le fil inférieur (30). pied de biche (28) de séparer, alors que
    le processus de couture est effectué et poursuivi sans interruption.
  10. Procédé selon la revendication 9, caractérisé en ce que l'élément coupant (34) est déplacé, après le début de la formation de la couture et en même temps que celle-ci, dans une position de séparation dans le trajet d'avance de la zone de fil libre, non cousue, entre le dispositif de serrage (25) et le produit à coudre, afin de raccourcir la zone de fil non cousue par séparation.
  11. Procédé selon l'une au moins des revendications 9 ou 10 précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le fil supérieur (30) guidé par une aiguille est déjà pincé par le dispositif de pincement (25) au début de l'opération de formation de points.
  12. Procédé selon au moins l'une des revendications 9 à 11 précédentes, caractérisé en ce que la barre de pression (18) est mobile dans un plan X-Y, la direction X étant la direction principale de déplacement de la barre de pression lors de la production de séparations, et l'élément de coupe (34) étant amené dans sa position de séparation par un déplacement essentiellement dans la direction Y.
  13. Procédé selon au moins l'une des revendications 9 à 12 précédentes, caractérisé en ce que, par le mouvement d'avance de l'article cousu (9), la section du fil supérieur (30) entre le dispositif de serrage (25) et le pied de biche (28) est guidée contre l'élément de coupe (34) et est ainsi séparée en raison du mouvement d'avance.
  14. Procédé selon au moins l'une des revendications précédentes 9 à 13, caractérisé en ce que, pour la production d'un fil de coupe sur un second article cousu, le fil supérieur (30) est utilisé pendant la fin du processus de couture de la production précédente d'un fil de coupe sur un premier article cousu.
    le dispositif de serrage ouvert (25) est disposé de telle sorte que l'extrémité libre du fil supérieur est placée dans le dispositif de serrage, le dispositif de serrage (25) est fermé et ensuite, avec le début du processus de couture, le fil supérieur est coupé dans le dispositif de serrage, la barre de pression (18) est ramenée dans sa position de réception et le dispositif de serrage ouvert (25) est disposé de telle sorte que l'extrémité libre du fil supérieur est placée dans le dispositif de serrage.
    le processus de couture pour le premier article à coudre est commencé alors que le dispositif de serrage (25) est toujours fermé.
EP18709257.2A 2017-02-16 2018-02-15 Système de couture et procédé de couture pour la production de points de couture Active EP3583261B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102017001537 2017-02-16
PCT/EP2018/000062 WO2018149547A1 (fr) 2017-02-16 2018-02-15 Système de couture et procédé de couture permettant de produire des pinces

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EP3583261A1 EP3583261A1 (fr) 2019-12-25
EP3583261B1 true EP3583261B1 (fr) 2022-12-07

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EP (1) EP3583261B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN110892104B (fr)
DE (1) DE102018001176A1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2939938T3 (fr)
PT (1) PT3583261T (fr)
WO (1) WO2018149547A1 (fr)

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CN203625648U (zh) * 2013-11-26 2014-06-04 新杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 一种具有动力切线装置的缝纫机起缝装置
CN203593868U (zh) * 2013-11-26 2014-05-14 新杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 一种具有独立夹线装置的缝纫机起缝装置
CN204097705U (zh) * 2014-10-24 2015-01-14 黄广全 一种电脑平缝机防鸟巢装置的带割线刀平压脚
CN104805605B (zh) * 2015-05-12 2018-07-10 浙江杜马缝纫机股份有限公司 平缝机的剪线机构
CN205275900U (zh) * 2015-12-29 2016-06-01 杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 一种缝纫机去鸟巢快速换刀带刀压脚

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DE102018001176A1 (de) 2018-08-16
EP3583261A1 (fr) 2019-12-25
ES2939938T3 (es) 2023-04-28
PT3583261T (pt) 2023-03-13
CN110892104A (zh) 2020-03-17
CN110892104B (zh) 2022-11-11

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