EP2448907A2 - Nouveaux esters et leur utilisation - Google Patents

Nouveaux esters et leur utilisation

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Publication number
EP2448907A2
EP2448907A2 EP10730355A EP10730355A EP2448907A2 EP 2448907 A2 EP2448907 A2 EP 2448907A2 EP 10730355 A EP10730355 A EP 10730355A EP 10730355 A EP10730355 A EP 10730355A EP 2448907 A2 EP2448907 A2 EP 2448907A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid ester
inci
alkyl radical
esters
octyl
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP10730355A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Rolf Kawa
Stefan BRÜNING
Stefanie Maurer
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Cognis IP Management GmbH
Original Assignee
Cognis IP Management GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE102009031280A external-priority patent/DE102009031280A1/de
Application filed by Cognis IP Management GmbH filed Critical Cognis IP Management GmbH
Priority to EP10730355A priority Critical patent/EP2448907A2/fr
Publication of EP2448907A2 publication Critical patent/EP2448907A2/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208—Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P31/00—Antiinfectives, i.e. antibiotics, antiseptics, chemotherapeutics
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
    • C07C69/00—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic or haloformic acids
    • C07C69/02—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen
    • C07C69/22—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen having three or more carbon atoms in the acid moiety
    • C07C69/24—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen having three or more carbon atoms in the acid moiety esterified with monohydroxylic compounds
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
    • C07C69/00—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic or haloformic acids
    • C07C69/02—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen
    • C07C69/22—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen having three or more carbon atoms in the acid moiety
    • C07C69/24—Esters of acyclic saturated monocarboxylic acids having the carboxyl group bound to an acyclic carbon atom or to hydrogen having three or more carbon atoms in the acid moiety esterified with monohydroxylic compounds
    • C07C69/26—Synthetic waxes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/06—Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite
    • A61K47/08—Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite containing oxygen, e.g. ethers, acetals, ketones, quinones, aldehydes, peroxides
    • A61K47/14—Esters of carboxylic acids, e.g. fatty acid monoglycerides, medium-chain triglycerides, parabens or PEG fatty acid esters

Definitions

  • the invention relates to esters and their use in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations and to processes for their preparation.
  • Preparations used to cleanse and care for human skin and hair usually contain a number of surfactants, especially oil and water.
  • surfactants especially oil and water.
  • hydrocarbons, ester oils and vegetable and animal oils / fats / waxes are used as oil bodies / emollients.
  • ester oils in cosmetics has long been known. Because of their importance, new processes are continuously being developed for their production.
  • esters should be compatible in particular with crystalline UV filters, pigments, antiperspirant salts and silicones, and the esters should also be stable to oxidation in particular for preparations of decorative cosmetics (for example make-up) the so-called "non-transfer" property of interest
  • compatibility of the esters with preparations containing wash-active substances is of interest.
  • silicone oils used in the prior art are disadvantageous, inter alia, because of their bioaccumulation, In which case it was of particular interest to provide substances make it possible to reduce the so-called "whitening effect" in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations or avoid.
  • WO 2006/097235 describes esters of 2-propylheptanol with linear or branched carboxylic acids
  • WO 2006/097235 describes the ester of 2-propylheptanol with 2-propylheptanoic acid
  • R 1 is a linear alkyl radical having 7 to 9 C atoms and R 2 is a linear alkyl radical having 9 to 10 C atoms, or
  • Ri is a linear alkyl radical having 8 to 9 C atoms and R 2 is a linear alkyl radical having 8 C atoms, or
  • Ri is a linear alkyl radical having 7 to 9 C atoms and R 2 is a linear alkyl radical having 7 atoms, or
  • R 1 is an alkyl radical having 7 or 8 C atoms and R 2 is an alkyl radical having 9 C atoms, where R 1 is a linear alkyl radical, R 2 is a branched alkyl radical or if R 1 is a branched alkyl radical, R 2 represents a linear alkyl radical or
  • R 1 is an alkyl radical having 8 C atoms and R 2 is an alkyl radical having 8 C atoms, wherein when Ri is a linear alkyl radical, R 2 is a branched alkyl radical represents or when Rj represents a branched alkyl radical, R 2 represents a linear alkyl radical, or
  • n-Octyl-i-octanoic acid ester n-decyl-i-octanoic acid ester, n-decyl-i-nonanoic acid ester, i-nonyl-n-decanoic acid ester, n-heptyl-n-dodecanoic acid ester, i-nonyl-i-octanoic acid ester.
  • the radicals R) and / or R 2 may be saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl radicals.
  • R j and / or R 2 represent a saturated alkyl radical.
  • the radical Rj may be branched or unbranched (linear). Examples of linear radicals Ri are n-heptyl, n-octyl and n-nonyl.
  • Branched radicals Ri with 7 C atoms are called i-heptyl radicals.
  • i-heptyl radicals are methylhexyl (1-methylhexyl, 2-methylhexyl, 3-methylhexyl, 4-methylhexyl, 5-methylhexyl), ethylpentyl (1 Ethyl-pentyl, 2-ethyl-pentyl, 3-ethyl-pentyl or 4-ethyl-pentyl), propyl-butyl- (1-propyl-butyl, 2-propyl-butyl, 3-propyl-butyl -), dimethyl pentyl (such as 1,1-dimethyl-pentyl, 1,2-dimethyl-pentyl, 1,3-dimethyl-pentyl, 1, 4-dimethyl-pentyl, 2,2- Dimethyl-pentyl, 2,3-dimethyl-pentyl, 2,4-dimethyl-p
  • Branched radicals Ri with 8 C atoms are called i-octyl radicals.
  • i-octyl radicals are methylheptyl (1-methylheptyl, 2-methylheptyl, 3-methylheptyl, 4-methylheptyl, 5-methylheptyl, 6-methylheptyl) Ethylhexyl (1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 3-ethylhexyl or 4-ethylhexyl), propylpentyl (1-propylpentyl, 2-propyl) pentyl, 3-propyl-pentyl), butyl-butyl (such as 1-butyl-butyl, 2-butyl-butyl or 3-butyl-butyl), dimethyl-hexyl (such as 1,1-dimethyl -hexyl, 1, 2-dimethyl-hexyl, 1,3-dimethyl-hexy
  • Branched radicals Ri with 9 C atoms are called i-nonyl radicals.
  • i-nonyl radicals are methyloctyl (1-methyl-octyl, 2-methyl-octyl, 3-methyl-octyl, 4-methyl-octyl, 5-methyl-octyl, 6-methyl-octyl) , 7-methyl-octyl), ethyl-heptyl- (1-ethyl-heptl-, 2-ethyl-heptl, 3-ethyl-heptl, 4-ethyl-heptl, 5-ethyl-heptl or 6-ethyl-heptl -), propyl-hexyl- (1-propyl-hexyl, 2-propyl-hexyl, 3-propyl-hexyl, 4-propyl-hexyl, 5-propyl-hexyl), butyl-pentyl (
  • the radical Rj may be branched or unbranched (linear). Examples of linear radicals R 2 are n-octyl, n-nonyl and n-decyl.
  • Branched radicals R 2 having 8 C atoms are referred to as i-octyl radicals.
  • i-octyl radicals are methylheptyl (1-methylheptyl, 2-methylheptyl, 3-methylheptyl, 4-methylheptyl, 5-methylheptyl, 6-methylheptyl) Ethylhexyl (1-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 3-ethylhexyl or 4-ethylhexyl), propylpentyl (1-propylpentyl, 2-propyl) pentyl, 3-propyl-pentyl), butyl-butyl (such as 1-butyl-butyl, 2-butyl-butyl or 3-butyl-butyl), dimethyl-hexyl (such as 1, 1-dimethyl -hexyl, 1, 2-dimethyl-hexyl, 1,3-dimethyl-
  • Branched radicals R 2 with 9 C atoms are referred to as i-nonyl radicals.
  • i-nonyl radicals are methyloctyl (1-methyl-octyl, 2-methyl-octyl, 3-methyl-octyl, 4-methyl octyl, 5-methyl-octyl, 6-methyl-octyl, 7-methyl-octyl), ethyl-heptyl (1-ethyl-heptl, 2-ethyl-heptl, 3-ethyl-heptl, 4- Ethyl-heptl, 5-ethyl-heptl or 6-ethyl-heptl-), propyl-hexyl- (1-propyl-hexyl, 2-propyl-hexyl, 3-propyl-hexyl, 4-propyl-hexyl- , 5-propylhexyl), butylpentyl (such
  • Branched radicals R 2 having 10 C atoms are referred to as i-decyl radicals.
  • i-decyl radicals are methyl nonyl (1-methyl-octyl, 2-methyl-octyl, 3-methyl-octyl, 4-methyl-octyl, 5-methyl-octyl, 6-methyl-octyl).
  • the radicals R 1 and / or R 2 are preferably saturated alkyl radicals.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention relates to esters selected from the group consisting of n-nonyl-n-octanoic acid esters, n-nonyl-n-nonanoic acid esters, n-nonyl-n-decanoic acid esters, n-decyl-n-octanoic acid esters, n-decyl-n Nonanoic acid ester, n-decyl-n-decanoic acid ester.
  • An embodiment of the invention (esters of group (2)) relates to esters of general formula (I) in which Ri is a linear alkyl radical having 8 to 9 C atoms and R 2 is a linear alkyl radical having 8 C atoms.
  • radicals R 1 and / or R 2 are preferably saturated alkyl radicals.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention relates to esters selected from the group consisting of n-octyl-n-nonanoic acid ester and n-octyl-n-decanoic acid ester.
  • the radicals R 1 and / or R 2 are preferably saturated alkyl radicals.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention relates to esters selected from the group consisting of n-heptyl-n-octanoic acid esters, n-heptyl-n-nonanoic acid esters, n-heptyl-n-decanoic acid esters.
  • Esters in which both the Ri and R 2 are a linear moiety are particularly useful in sensory-demanding formulations where lightness, "non-greasy skin feel", softness, spreading, absorption, spreadability, oiliness are important.
  • the radicals R 1 and / or R 2 are preferably saturated alkyl radicals.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention relates to esters selected from the group consisting of n-nonyl-i-octanoic acid esters, i-nonyl-n-octanoic acid esters, n-nonyl-i-nonanoic acid esters, i-nonyl-n-nonanoic acid esters.
  • esters selected from the group consisting of n-nonyl-2-ethylhexanoic acid ester, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl-n-octanoic acid ester, n-nonyl-3,5,5-
  • Trimethylhexanoate 3, 5, 5-trimethylhexyl-n-nonanoic acid ester.
  • the radicals R [and / or R 2 are saturated alkyl radicals.
  • a preferred embodiment of the invention relates to esters selected from the group consisting of n-octyl-i-nonanoic acid ester and i-octyl-n-nonanoic acid ester. Particular preference is given to esters selected from the group consisting of n-octyl-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid ester and 2-ethylhexyl-n-nonanoic acid ester.
  • esters of the general formula (I) selected from n-octyl-i-octanoic acid ester, n-decyl-i-octanoic acid ester, n-decyl-i-nonanoic acid ester, i-nonyl-n-decanoic acid ester, n-heptyl n-dodecanoic acid ester, i-nonyl-i-octanoic acid ester.
  • esters selected from the group consisting of n-octyl-2-ethylhexanoic acid ester, n-decyl-2-ethylhexanoic acid ester, n-decyl-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid ester, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl-n- Decanoic acid ester, n-heptyl-n-dodecanoic acid ester, 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl-2-ethylhexanoic acid ester.
  • esters according to the invention are particularly well suited for cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical formulations, in particular for formulations in which a "light" skin feel is important.
  • the esters can be incorporated very well into various formulations.They have a sensory profile similar to that Depending on the chain length and branching, liquid substances or mixtures of substances are obtained, which are suitable as oil bodies or bodying agents which give bodies in emulsions,
  • the esters show a high stability against oxidation and hydrolysis. Due to their good dissolving power for UV photoprotective agents they are particularly suitable as solubilizers, in particular for UV photoprotective filters and as dispersants for solids (powder). According to the invention, a single ester can be used or any mixture of different esters.
  • Another object of the invention is a process for the preparation of esters of general formula (I) according to the invention, wherein reacting a mixture containing the corresponding acid and the corresponding alcohol. In a preferred Embodiment of the invention is reacted, the mixture containing the corresponding acid and the corresponding alcohol with the addition of an esterification catalyst.
  • the mixture containing the corresponding acid and the corresponding alcohol is heated, the resulting water is continuously removed and the crude product is then distilled.
  • the process can be carried out with the addition of an esterification catalyst, for example acid-catalytically or base-catalyzed.
  • the process is carried out without the addition of solvents, preferably with educts which are as anhydrous as possible.
  • a tin catalyst is used. Suitable tin catalysts, for example tin oxalate (z. B.
  • Fascat ® 2001 tin oxide
  • SnO, Fascat ® 2000 tin IV catalysts
  • dibutyltin Fascat ® 4200 Dibutlyzinnoxid
  • dibutyl tin laurate are (Fascat ® 4202) or tin oxide (SnO), formerly marketed by Atof ⁇ na and currently by Arkema.
  • the esterification at temperatures between 100 - 300 0 C, in particular 200 - 25O 0 C Maschinenmin.
  • At least one enzyme is used as the catalyst.
  • Suitable enzymes are any of the enzymes or enzyme mixtures known to those skilled in the art, which are capable of catalyzing the esterification of alcohol and acid, by way of example its called lipases, acyltransferases and esterases.
  • the enzymatically catalyzed esterification is usually carried out at temperatures of 20 to 100 ° C, preferably 40 to 80 ° C.
  • the esters according to the invention can also be prepared by reacting an alkyl ester of the corresponding acid (eg methyl ester or butyrate) and the corresponding alcohol with addition of a transesterification catalyst.
  • an alkyl ester of the corresponding acid eg methyl ester or butyrate
  • the mixture containing the alkyl ester of the corresponding acid and the corresponding alcohol is heated with the addition of the esterification catalyst, the resulting water is removed continuously and the crude product is then distilled.
  • the process is carried out without addition of solvents, preferably with educts which are as anhydrous as possible.
  • the esterification is carried out at temperatures between 100 - 300 0 C, in particular 200 - 250 0 C.
  • Transesterification catalysts which can be used are all transesterification catalysts known to the person skilled in the art, preferably sodium methylate or tetraalkyl titanate is used as the transesterification catalyst.
  • at least one enzyme can also be used. Suitable enzymes are any of the enzymes or enzyme mixtures known to those skilled in the art, which are capable of catalyzing the transesterification of alcohol and of acid methyl ester, by way of example its called lipases, acyltransferases and esterases.
  • the enzymatically catalyzed esterification is usually carried out at temperatures of 20 to 100 ° C, preferably 40 to 80 ° C.
  • the invention comprises both individual esters and also mixtures of different esters.
  • esters according to the invention allow the preparation of stable cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations, in particular emulsions having a particularly mild skin feel.
  • esters according to claim 1 are suitable in particular as oil particles and / or as solubilizers and / or as dispersants in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of the esters according to claim 1 for the preparation of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • Another object of the invention is in particular the use of the esters according to claim 1 in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations for wetting or impregnation or coating of utility and / or hygiene towels, which are used for body cleansing and / or personal care.
  • Another object of the present invention are cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing 0.1 to 95 wt .-% of an ester according to claim 1.
  • Another object of the present invention are cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing
  • Another object of the present invention are cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing
  • n-heptyl-n-octanoic acid ester n-heptyl-n-octanoic acid ester, n-heptyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-heptyl-n-decanoic acid ester, n-nonyl-i-octanoic acid ester (in particular n-nonyl-2-ethylhexanoic acid ester), i-nonyl-n-octanoic acid ester (in particular 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl-n-octanoic acid ester), n-nonyl-i-nonanoic acid ester (in particular n-nonyl-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid ester), i-nonyl-n-nonanoic acid ester (in particular 3,5, 5-trimethylhexyl-n-nonanoic acid ester), n-
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably contain from 0.1 to 95, in particular from 0.2 to 80,% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 70, preferably from 0.75 to 60, in particular from 1 to 50,% by weight, preferably 1 - 40 wt .-% of at least one ester (a).
  • Another object of the invention are preparations containing cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations
  • the preparations according to the invention preferably contain at least 0.1, in particular at least 0.5, in particular at least 0.75, preferably at least 1, preferably at least 5% by weight of one or more esters according to claim 1.
  • All% by weight data relate to% by weight, based on the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparation.
  • the preparations contain at least one ester selected from the group consisting of n-nonyl-n-octanoic acid esters, n-nonyl-n-nonanoic acid esters, n-nonyl-n-decanoic acid esters, n-decyl-n-octanoic acid esters, n-nonyl Decyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-decyl-n-decanoic acid ester, n-octyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-octyl-n-decanoic acid ester.
  • ester selected from the group consisting of n-nonyl-n-octanoic acid esters, n-nonyl-n-nonanoic acid esters, n-nonyl-n-decanoic acid esters, n-decyl-n-octa
  • n-heptyl-n-octanoic acid ester n-heptyl-n-octanoic acid ester, n-heptyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-heptyl-n-decanoic acid ester, n-nonyl-i-octanoic acid ester (especially n-nonyl-2-ethylhexanoic acid ester), i-nonyl-n-octanoic acid ester (in particular 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl-n-octanoic acid ester), n-nonyl-i-nonanoic acid ester (in particular n-nonyl-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid ester), i-nonyl-n-nonanoic acid ester (in particular 3,5, 5-trimethylhexyl-n-nonanoic acid ester), n-o
  • the preparations according to the invention, and the esters according to the invention are suitable as a base in all cosmetic products for personal care and cleaning such as body oil, baby oil, body milk, creams, lotions, sprayable emulsions, sunscreens, antiperspirants, liquid and bar soaps etc. are incorporated , They can also be used in surfactant-containing formulations such as foam and shower baths, hair shampoos and conditioners.
  • the cosmetic formulations contain a number of other auxiliaries and additives, such as surfactants, other oil, emulsifiers, pearlescent, consistency, thickening, superfatting, stabilizers, polymers, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV sun protection factors , Antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanner, tyrosinase inhibitors (depigmenting agents), fillers, hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes, etc., which are listed below by way of example.
  • auxiliaries and additives such as surfactants, other oil, emulsifiers, pearlescent, consistency, thickening, superfatting, stabilizers, polymers, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV sun protection factors , Antioxidants, deodorants, anti
  • the preparations according to the invention contain at least one surface-active substance.
  • the compositions of the present invention contain the surfactant (s) in an amount of 0 to 80% by weight, especially 0 to 40% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably
  • composition In principle, any substance which lowers the surface tension between the aqueous phase and the non-aqueous phase is suitable as surface-active substance.
  • Surfactant substances include emulsifiers and surfactants.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains more than one surface-active substance.
  • the skilled artisan will employ conventional systems (such as emulsifier and co-emulsifier) depending on the other components.
  • a suitable emulsifier is in principle any surface-active substance, but in particular substances with an HLB value of 1 to 20 according to the Griffin scale.
  • Each emulsifier is assigned a so-called HLB value (a dimensionless number between 1 and 20, Griffin scale) indicating whether a preferred water or oil solubility is present.
  • Numbers below 9 are preferably oil-soluble, hydrophobic emulsifiers, numbers over 1 1 water-soluble, hydrophilic emulsifiers.
  • the HLB value says something about the balance of size and strength of the hydrophilic and lipophilic groups of an emulsifier.
  • the Griffin scale is described in WC Griffin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 1 (1949) 311; WC Griffin, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 5 (1954) 249.
  • the HLB value of an emulsifier can also be calculated from increments, the HLB increments for the various hydrophilic and hydrophobic groups that make up a molecule, tables (eg BHP Fiedler, Encyclopedia of adjuvants for pharmacy, cosmetics and adjacent areas , Editio Cantor Verlag, Aulendorf, 4th edition 1996) or the manufacturer's information can be found.
  • the solubility of the emulsifier in the two phases practically determines the type of emulsion. If the emulsifier is better soluble in water, an O / W emulsion is obtained. On the other hand, if the emulsifier has a better solubility in the oil phase, a W / O emulsion is formed under otherwise identical production conditions.
  • the group of nonionic emulsifiers include, for example:
  • Alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and their ethoxylated analogs.
  • polyol and in particular polyglycerol esters such as. Polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates, Polyglycerinpolyricinoleat, polyglyceryl-4-laurates, Polyglycerindiisostearat or Polyglycerindimerat. Also suitable are mixtures of compounds of several of these classes of substances, such as polyglyceryl-4 diisostearates / polyhydroxystearates / sebacates
  • partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C 6 -C 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside , Butylglucoside, laurylglucoside) as well as polyglucosides (eg cellulose), or mixed esters, as well as sucrose polystearates (commercially available as Emulgade® SUCRO, Cognis GmbH).
  • alkyl glucosides eg methyl glucoside , Butylglucoside, laurylglucoside
  • polyglucosides eg cellulose
  • sucrose polystearates commercially available as Emulgade® SUCRO, Cognis GmbH.
  • the addition products of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide to fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or to castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose mean Alkoxyl michsgrad the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. Depending on the degree of ethoxylation, these are W / O or O / W emulsifiers.
  • C] fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • particularly useful and mild emulsifiers are polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates and mixtures thereof which, for example, under the trademarks "Dehymuls ® PGPH” (W / O-emulsifier) or “Eumulgin ® VL 75" (mixture with Coco Glucosides in a weight ratio of 1: 1, O / W-emulsifier) or Dehymuls ® SBL (W / O emulsifier) are sold by Cognis Germany GmbH.
  • the polyol component of these emulsifiers can be derived from substances which have at least two, preferably from 3 to 12 and in particular from 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and from 2 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • Suitable lipophilic W / O emulsifiers are, in principle, emulsifiers having an HLB value of 1 to 8, which are summarized in numerous tables and known to the person skilled in the art. Some of these emulsifiers are listed, for example, in Kirk-Othmer, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, 3rd Ed., 1979, Volume 8, page 913.
  • W / O emulsifiers are partial esters of polyols, especially of C 4 -C 6 polyols, such as partial esters of pentaerythritol or sugar esters, eg. B.
  • emulsifiers are addition products of from 1 to 30, preferably from 5 to 10, mol of ethylene oxide with the stated sorbitan esters.
  • at least one emulsifier from the group of nonionic O / W emulsifiers (HLB value: 8-18) and / or solubilizers.
  • HLB value 7-18
  • solubilizers are, for example, the already mentioned in the introduction ethylene oxide adducts with a correspondingly high degree of ethoxylation, z. B. 10 - 20 ethylene oxide units for O / W emulsifiers and 20 - 40 ethylene oxide units for so-called solubilizers.
  • O / W emulsifiers according to the invention are ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20 and PEG-20 stearate.
  • the solubilizers are preferably suitable Eumulgin ® HRE 40 (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil), Eumulgin ® HRE 60 (INCI: PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil), Eumulgin ® L (INCI: PPG-l-PEG-9 Laurylglycolether) and Eumulgin ® SML 20 (INCI: polysorbate-20).
  • Nonionic emulsifiers from the group of alkyl oligoglycosides are particularly skin-friendly and therefore preferably suitable as O / W emulsifiers.
  • C 8 -C 22 -Alkylmono- and - oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 6 to 24, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the glycoside radical both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of preferably approximately 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products.
  • Products which are available under the name Plantacare ® or Plantaren® a glucosidic bond Cs-Ci 6 alkyl group included in an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization is 1 to the second
  • the glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as nonionic emulsifiers.
  • According to the invention advantageously be used is a mixture of lauryl glucoside, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerine and water which is commercially available under the name Eumulgin ® VL 75 miles.
  • emulsifiers are substances such as lecithins and phospholipids.
  • lecithins include the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and derivatives of l, 2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood Mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally expected to be the fats.
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
  • silicone emulsifiers may be included. These can be selected, for example, from the group of alkylmethicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:
  • X and Y are independently selected from the group H (hydrogen) and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 0-200, q represents a number from 1-40, and r represents a number from 1-100.
  • silicone emulsifiers which are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols which have been sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade names AXIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183 are sold.
  • a further example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously in the context of the present invention is the cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone (cetyl dimethicone copolyol) sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name ABIL® EM 90.
  • a further example of surface-active substances to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol sold by Evonik Goldschmidt under the trade name ABIL®EM 97 and ABIL® WE 09.
  • silicone emulsifier with the INCI name Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG / PG-18-18 Dimethicone ", which is obtainable, for example, under the trade name Dow Corning® 5225 C Formulation Aid.
  • Another advantageous silicone emulsifier is octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside from Wacker.
  • a water-in-silicone oil emulsion according to the invention it is possible to use all known emulsifiers used for this emulsion type.
  • Particularly preferred water-in-silicone emulsifiers according to the invention are cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicones and lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 methicones [e.g. ABIL® EM 90 Evonik Goldschmidt), DC5200 Formulation Aid (Dow Corning)] and any mixtures of both emulsifiers.
  • a suitable anionic O / W emulsifier is, for example, the product Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate available under the INCI name (trade name Eumulgin® Prisma, Cognis GmbH).
  • the preparations according to the invention contain, as surface-active compounds, at least one surfactant.
  • Surfactants may be anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • surfactant-containing cosmetic preparations such as shower gels, foam baths, shampoos, etc., preferably at least one anionic surfactant is included.
  • nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol ethers, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yloligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (in particular vegetable products Wheat base), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one --COO - or --SO - group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called
  • Betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxamethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8 -C 8 - are alkyl or acyl group in the molecule at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO H group and are capable of forming inner salts .
  • suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids (commercially available, for example, under the trade name Dehyton®DC), N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N - Alkyl sarcosines, 2-Alkylaminopropion Acid and Alkylaminoessigklaroy each having about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, aminoethylaminopropionat the Kokosacyl- and the Ci 2 i 8 acyl sarcosine. Also suitable are derivatives of N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, such as N-lauryl-beta-iminopropionates, commercially available under the trade name Deriphat® 160 C. Also suitable are amphoacetates, such as cocoamphoacetates (eg Dehyton® MC) or cocoamphodiacetates (such as Dehyton® DC).
  • Anionic surfactants are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, citrate or phosphate group and a lipophilic radical. Skin-compatible anionic surfactants are the skilled person in large numbers known and available commercially.
  • alkyl sulfates in the form of their alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salts
  • alkyl ether sulfates in the form of their alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salts
  • alkyl ether carboxylates acyl isethionates
  • acylsarcosinates acyltaurines having linear alkyl or acyl groups having 12 to 18 carbon atoms
  • sulfosuccinates and acylglutamates in the form of their alkali metal or ammonium salts.
  • Particularly suitable anionic surfactants are glyceryl stearate citrates (such as, for example, commercially available under the trade names Imwitor®370, Imwitor® 372P, Axol®C, 62 or Dracorin®CE 614035) or glyceryl stearate lactate compounds.
  • An example of a suitable alkyl sulphate is sodium cetearyl sulphate (trade name Lanette® E)
  • an example of a suitable phosphates is Potassium Cetyl Phosphate (trade name Amphisol® K).
  • An example of a suitable acylglutamate is sodium stearoyl glutamate (trade name eg Eumulgin® SG).
  • Another example of a suitable anionic surfactant is sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate (trade name Plantapon® LGC).
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds can be used in particular as cationic surfactants.
  • ammonium halides in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
  • Suitable pseudo cationic surfactants are, for example, stearylaminopropyl dimethyamine (commercially available under the trade name Dehyquart® S18 or Incromine® SB or TegoAmide®S18).
  • the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds such as the sold under the trademark Stepantex ® dialkyl ammonium methosulfates and Methylhydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkylammoniumm ethosulfate and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart ® series, can be used as cationic surfactants.
  • the term "esterquats" is generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts.
  • cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates. Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (trade name Dehyquart® C4046), distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (trade name Dehyquart®F75), dicocoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (trade name Dehyquart® L80), Behentrimonium Chloride (trade name Varisoft® BT), Distearyldimonium Chloride (trade name Varisoft® TA 100), Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride (trade name Varisoft® PATC).
  • Wax component b-2 Wax component b-2
  • the preparations according to the invention contain at least one wax component.
  • the compositions according to the invention contain the wax component (s) in an amount of from 0 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 10 Wt .-% based on the total weight of the composition.
  • wax is usually understood to mean all natural or artificially produced substances and mixtures having the following properties: they are of solid to brittle hard consistency, coarse to fine-crystalline, translucent to hazy and melt above 30 ° C. without decomposition. They are already slightly above the melting point low viscosity and non-stringy and show a strong temperature-dependent consistency and solubility.
  • Usable according to the invention is a wax component or a mixture of wax components which melt at 30 C or above.
  • Fats and fat-like substances with a waxy consistency can also be used as waxes according to the invention, as long as they have the required melting point.
  • These include u.a. Fats (triglycerides), mono- and diglycerides, natural and synthetic waxes, fatty and wax alcohols, fatty acids, esters of fatty alcohols and fatty acids and fatty acid amides or any mixtures of these substances.
  • Fats are triacylglycerols, ie the triple esters of fatty acids with glycerol. Preferably, they contain saturated, unbranched and unsubstituted fatty acid residues. These may also be mixed esters, ie triple esters of glycerol with different fatty acids.
  • Usable according to the invention and particularly suitable as bodying agents are so-called hardened fats and oils which are obtained by partial hydrogenation. Herbal hardened fats and oils are preferred, e.g.
  • hardened castor oil peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, corn oil, olive oil, sesame oil, cocoa butter, shea butter and coconut oil.
  • Suitable include the triple esters of glycerol with C 12-C60 fatty acids and in particular C12-C36 fatty acids.
  • These include hardened castor oil, a triple ester of glycerol and a hydroxystearic acid, which is commercially available, for example, under the name Cutina HR.
  • glycerol tristearate eg Syncrowax HRC
  • glycerol tripalmitate eg Syncrowax HGLC
  • the melting point of the wax component or of the mixture is at 30 ° C. or above.
  • Mono and diglycerides or mixtures of these partial glycerides can be used according to the invention as wax components.
  • the glyceride mixtures which can be used according to the invention include the products marketed by Cognis GmbH & Co. KG Novata AB and Novata B (mixture of C12-C18 mono-, di- and triglycerides) and Cutina® HVG (Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides) or Cutina® GMS (glyceryl stearate).
  • the fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention as wax component include the C 12 -C 50 -fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohols can be obtained from natural fats, oils and waxes, such as myristyl alcohol, 1-pentadecanol, cetyl alcohol, 1-heptadecanol, stearyl alcohol, 1-nonadecanol, arachidyl alcohol, 1-heeneicosanol, behenyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol or myricyl alcohol.
  • Preferred in accordance with the invention are saturated unbranched fatty alcohols.
  • unsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols can be used according to the invention as a wax component, as long as they have the required melting point.
  • Fettalkoholschnitte as used in the reduction of naturally occurring fats and oils such.
  • it can also synthetic alcohols, eg.
  • As the linear, even-numbered fatty alcohols of the Ziegler synthesis (Alfole) or the partially branched alcohols from the oxo synthesis (Dobanols) can be used.
  • C14-C22 fatty alcohols which are particularly preferably suitable according to the invention are C14-C22 fatty alcohols which are obtainable, for example, from Cognis Deutschland GmbH under the name Lanette 16 (C 16 -alcohol), Lanette 14 (C 14 -alcohol), Lanette O (C 16 / C 18 -alcohol) and Lanette 22 (C 18 / C22 alcohol).
  • Fatty alcohols give the compositions a drier feel on the skin than triglycerides and are therefore preferred over the latter.
  • wax components it is also possible to use C14-C40 fatty acids or mixtures thereof.
  • usable natural waxes include the mineral waxes, such as.
  • waxes such as ceresin and ozokerite or the petrochemical waxes such.
  • petrolatum paraffin waxes and microwaxes.
  • wax component and chemically modified waxes especially the hard waxes, such as.
  • Montanesterwachse Sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes used.
  • the synthetic waxes which can be used according to the invention include, for example, waxy polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. Vegetable waxes are preferred according to the invention.
  • the wax component can also be selected from the group of wax esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids, dicarboxylic acids, tricarboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (for example 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols, and also from the group of the lactides of long-chain hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • esters examples include the C16-C40 alkyl stearates, C20-C40 alkyl stearates (eg Kester wax K82H), C20-C40 dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C18-C38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates or C20-C40 alkyl erucates.
  • the preparations according to the invention comprise at least one polymer.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain the polymer (s) in an amount of 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 18% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-% based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the preparations according to the invention comprise the polymer (s) in an amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 2% by weight. based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as.
  • a quaternized hydroxyethylcellulose obtainable under the name Polymer JR 400 ® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, for example Luviquat ® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized, collagen polypeptides, for example lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat® ® L / Grunau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such.
  • Dihalogenalkylen such as dibromobutane with Bisdialkylamines
  • Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic acid copolymers.
  • Particularly suitable anionic polymers are those with the INCI name Carbomer, such as the Carbopol types 980, 980,981,1382,2984,5984 and the products available under the trade names Rheocare®C plus and Rheocare®400.
  • anionic polymers are those with the INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (trade names eg Pemulen®TR, Pemulen® TR 2, Carbopol®Ultrez), acrylates copolymer (trade names eg Rheocare TTA, TTN, TTN-2) , Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer (trade names eg Cosmedia®ATC), Sodium Polyacrylate (trade names eg Cosmedia® ATH, Cosmedia®SP), Polyacrylamides (trade names eg Sepigel® 305 or Sepigel® 501).
  • Preferred anionic polymers are polyacrylic acid homo- and copolymers.
  • silicone elastomer gums e.g. Silicone elastomer blends, e.g. Mixtures with the INCI names Cycolpentasiloxane (and) dimethiconol (and) dimethicone crosspolymer (trade name Dow Corning®DC 9027), mixtures with the INCI name isodecyl neopentanoate (and) dimethicone / bis-isobutyl PPG-20 crosspolymer (trade name Dow Corning®DC EL 8051 IN), mixtures with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) C 12-14 Pareth-12) (trade name Dow Corning®DC 9509) and mixtures with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica (trade name Dow Corning® DC 9701 Cosmetic Powder).
  • silicone elastomer gums e.g. Siliconelastomer blends, e.g.
  • polysaccharides in particular xanthan gum, guar gum, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, as well as tare gum, carrageenan, sclerotium gum and natural cellulose.
  • xanthan gum guar gum
  • agar agar agar
  • alginates and tyloses as well as tare gum, carrageenan, sclerotium gum and natural cellulose.
  • tare gum carrageenan, sclerotium gum and natural cellulose.
  • Corporal remedies such as creams, body oils, lotions and milks, typically contain a number of other oil bodies and emollients that help to further optimize sensory properties.
  • the oil bodies (esters according to the invention plus other oil bodies) are usually present in a total amount of 0.1-80, in particular 0.5 to 70, preferably 1 to 60, in particular 1 to 50 wt.%, In particular 1 to 40 wt. , preferably 5 to 25 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 15 wt .-%.
  • the other oil bodies are usually contained in an amount of 0, 1 to 40 wt .-%
  • esters of C 8 -C 38 -alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimer triol ), triglycerides based on C 6 -C] 0 fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C 6 -C 8 fatty acids, esters of C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C 2 -C 2 dicarboxylic acids with polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C 6 -C 22 -
  • B. Dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guerbetcarbonate based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C 6 -C 22 alcohols (eg Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as.
  • B. Dicaprylylether (Cetiol® OE), Ringöffhungs occur of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols and Hydrocarbons or mixtures thereof.
  • esters of 2-propylheptanol with n-octanoic acid such as, for example, commercially available under the trade name Cetiol®SenSoft (Cognis GmbH).
  • hydrocarbons such as undecane and tridecane.
  • alkanes such as the mixtures with the INCI name Conocnut / Palm / Palm Kernel OiI Alkanes (trade name Vegelight 1214 from Biosynthesis).
  • esters according to the invention are particularly suitable for solubilizing oil-soluble UV light protection filters.
  • An object of the invention relates to preparations containing at least one ester according to claim 1 and at least one UV light protection filter, preferably an oil-soluble UV light protection filter.
  • An object of the invention relates to preparations containing at least one ester selected from the group consisting of n-nonyl-n-octanoic acid ester, n-nonyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-nonyl-n-decanoic acid ester, n-decyl-n-octanoic acid ester, n -Decyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-decyl-n-decanoic acid ester, n-octyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-octyl-n-decanoic acid ester.
  • n-heptyl-n-octanoic acid ester n-heptyl-n-octanoic acid ester, n-heptyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-heptyl-n-decanoic acid ester, n-nonyl-i-octanoic acid ester (especially n-nonyl-2-ethylhexanoic acid ester), i-nonyl-n-octanoic acid ester (in particular 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl-n-octanoic acid ester), n-nonyl-i-nonanoic acid ester (in particular n-nonyl-3,5,5-trimethylhexanoic acid ester), i-nonyl-n-nonanoic acid ester (in particular 3,5, 5-trimethylhexyl-n-nonanoic acid ester), n-o
  • liquid or crystalline organic substances which are capable of ultraviolet rays are suitable as UV light protection filters at room temperature to absorb and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg heat again.
  • UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Typical oil-soluble UV-B filters or broad-spectrum UV A / B filters are, for example:
  • y 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
  • Esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
  • y esters of salicylic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
  • Triazine derivatives such as, for example, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2 ⁇ -ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and 2,4,6-tris [p- (2- ethylhexyl-oxycarbonyl) anilino] -l, 3,5-triazine (Uvinul T 150) as described in EP 0818450 A1 or 4,4 '- [(6- [4- ((1,1-dimethylethyl) amino] -carbonyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl) diimino] bis (benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester) (Uvasorb® HEB);
  • Suitable water-soluble UV filters are:
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor e.g. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) -sulfonic acid and its salts.
  • the preparations contain at least one oil-soluble UV light protection filter and at least one water-soluble UV light protection filter.
  • UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as, for example, 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propan-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1, 3-dione and also enamine compounds as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF) and benzoic acid, 2- [4- (Diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl], hexyl ester (Uvinul® A plus).
  • benzoylmethane such as, for example, 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propan-1, 3-dione, 4-tert-butyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (
  • UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures.
  • Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with esters cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and / or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester.
  • benzoylmethane for example 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocry
  • UV light protection filters are those according to Annex VII of the Commission Directive (in the version of Commission Directive 2005/9 / EC of 28 January 2005 amending Council Directive 76/768 / EEC, concerning cosmetic purposes, for the purposes of adapting Annexes VII thereof to technical progress) substances, which are explicitly referred to here.
  • the preparations according to the invention may also contain insoluble photoprotective pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts.
  • suitable metal oxides are in particular zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • salts silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and also for decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
  • the pigments may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape.
  • the pigments can also be surface treated, i. hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, e.g. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T, Eusolex® T-2000, Eusolex® T-Aqua, Eusolex® AVO, Eusolex® T-ECO, Eusolex® T-OLEO and Eusolex® T-S (Merck).
  • Typical examples are zinc oxides, e.g.
  • Zinc Oxide neutral Zinc Oxide NDM (Symrise) or Z-Cote® (BASF) or SUNZnO-AS and SUNZnO-NAS (Sunjun Chemical Co. Ltd.).
  • Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones.
  • sunscreens so-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used.
  • micronized zinc oxide is used.
  • UV photoprotective filters are the review by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW Journal 122, 8/1996, pp 543-548 and Parf.Kosm. Volume 80, No. 3/1999, pp. 10 to 16.
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates into the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg, carotene, carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (eg Dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl
  • amino acids eg glycine, histidine, ty
  • zinc and its derivatives eg ZnO, ZnSO4
  • selenium and its derivatives eg selenium methionine
  • stilbenes and their derivatives eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide
  • inventively suitable derivatives salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids
  • the preparations contain at least one UV photoprotective filter selected from the group consisting of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazines, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoates, 3- (4'-trimethylammonium) benzylidenebornan-2-one methylsulfate, 3, 3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethine) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxobicyclo-) 2.2.
  • a UV photoprotective filter selected from the group consisting of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-3, butyl methoxydibenzo
  • UV photoprotective filters are commercially available, for example, under the following trade names:
  • NeoHeliopan®MBC 4-methylbenzylidene camphor; manufacturer: Symrise; NeoHeliopan® BB (INCI: Benzophenone-3, manufacturer: Symrise); Parsol® 1789 (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Manufacturer: Hoffmann-La Roche (Givaudan); Tinosorb® S (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazines); Tinosorb® M (INCI: Methylene Bisbenzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol): Manufacturer: Ciba Specialty Chemicals Uvasorb® HEB (INCI: diethylhexyl butamido triazone, manufacturer: 3 V Inc.), Uvinul® T 150 (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone, manufacturer: BASF AG), Uvinul® A plus (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate:
  • the preparations according to the invention may contain the UV light protection filters in amounts of 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 2.5 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 15% by weight, based on the preparation.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropylcellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and bentonites such.
  • a suitable thickener is, for example, the product available under the trade name Cosmedia® Gel CC with the INCI name Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite and Propylene carbonates.
  • biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ⁇ -glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as B. Prunusex Eclipse, Bambaranussex Exercise and vitamin complexes to understand.
  • Deodorizing agents / antiperspirants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors are caused by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, forming unpleasant-smelling degradation products.
  • suitable deodorising agents include germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
  • insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1, 2-diol or 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid ethyl ester), which under the name ® Insect Repellent 3535 by Merck KGaA is sold, as well as Butylacetylaminopropionate in question.
  • a self-tanner dihydroxyacetone or erythrulose is suitable.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol, chlorphenesin, caprylylglycol, ethylhexylglycerols or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the further classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.
  • Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, resins and balsams. Furthermore, animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum and synthetic fragrance compounds of the ester type, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons come into question.
  • Suitable pearlescent or pearlescent compounds are, for example: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which in total have at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearyl ether; Stearyl citrates, cyclodextrin, fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, Ringöfmungs consist of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon
  • superfatting agents substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers.
  • a suitable superfatting agent is, for example, the mixture of cocoglucosides and glyceryl oleate (commercially available as Lamesoft® PO65 from Cognis GmbH).
  • Suitable fillers are substances which, for example, improve the sensory or cosmetic properties of a preparation and which, for example, produce or intensify a velvety or silky feel (so-called skin-sensory modifier).
  • Suitable fillers are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, aluminum starch octenyl succinates, sodium octenyl succinate, distarch phosphate), pigments that do not primarily act as UV filters or dyes (such as boron nitride) and / or Aerosil ® (CAS- no. 7631-86-9), and / or talc, as well as, for example, polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA example Cosmedia V8 / V12), silica (eg.
  • Cosmedia ® SILC stearalkonium hectorite
  • Cosmedia® gel CC stearalkonium hectorite
  • HDI / trimethylol hexyl lactone crosspolymer as contained in the commercially available Cosmedia CUSHION product
  • metal salts of fatty acids such as.
  • metal salts of fatty acids such as.
  • magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.
  • Hydrotropes such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols contemplated herein preferably have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols may contain other functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen.
  • the preparations according to the invention and the esters according to the invention are particularly suitable in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations for wetting or impregnating or coating utility and hygiene towels which are used for body cleansing and / or body care.
  • Tissues, papers, wipes, fleece products, sponges, puffs, plasters and bandages, which are used in the field of hygiene and care, are to be mentioned by way of example as utility and hygiene wipes.
  • These may include wet wipes for baby hygiene and baby care, cleansing wipes, facial cleansing wipes, skin wipes, wipes with anti-aging agents, wipes with sunscreen formulations and insect repellents, as well as wipes for decorative cosmetics or for after-sun treatment, toilet wipes, antiperspirant wipes. Wipes, diapers, handkerchiefs, wet wipes, hygiene products and self-tanning wipes.
  • n-decanol and 1 mole of n-decanoic acid and 0.22 g of 0.22 g of Fascat®2001 (Sn oxalates) are heated at a temperature of 240 ° C for 3 hours on a water separator.
  • the product is distilled over a 30 cm column (153-168 ° C at 0.8 mbar).
  • the product is a colorless, odorless oil.
  • n-nonyl-n-octanoic acid esters n-nonyl-n-nonanoic acid esters, n-nonyl-n-decanoic acid esters, n-decyl-n-octanoic acid esters, n-nonyl Decyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-decyl-n-decanoic acid ester, n-octyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-octyl-n-decanoic acid ester, n-heptyl-n-octanoic acid ester, n-heptyl-n-nonanoic acid ester, n-heptylic acid n-decanoic acid ester,
  • Table 3 OAV Body Care Emulsions
  • Table 4 W / O Body Care Emulsions
  • AMP-95 INCI: Aminomethyl Propanol, Dow Chemical Co; Abil ® EM 90; INCI: cetyl dimethicone copolyol; Tego Cosmetics (Goldschmidt); Allianz® OPT; INCI: Acrylates / C 12-22 alkyl methacrylate copolymer; Rohm and Haas; Amphisol ® K; INCI: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate; Hoffmann La Roche; Admul® WOL 1403, INCI: Polyricinoleate of polyglycerol, Quest; Antaron V ® 220; INCI: PVP / eicosene copolymer; GAF General Aniline Firm Corp.
  • IPS-Global Antaron V ® 216; INCI: PVP / Hexadecene Copolymer: GAF General Aniline Firm Corp. (IPS-Global); Arlacel ® 83; INCI: Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Uniqema (ICI Surfacants); Arlacel P 135 ®, INCI: PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Uniqema (ICI surfacants); Bentone ® 38, INCI: Quaternium-18 Hectorite, Rheox (Elementis Specialties); Carbopol ® 980, INCI: Carbomer, Goodrich; Carbopol ® 2984, INCI: Carbomer, Noveon, Inc .; Carbopol ® ETD 2001, INCI: Carbomer, Noveon, Inc .; Carbopol ® Ultrez 10, INCI: carbomer; Noveon, Inc .; Cegesoft ® C 17, Myristyl Lac

Abstract

L'invention concerne des esters de formule générale (I) R1-C(=O)-O-R2 (1) dans laquelle R1 représente un radical alkyle linéaire comportant 7 à 9 atomes de carbone et R2 représente un radical alkyle linéaire comportant 9 à 10 atomes de carbone, ou (2) dans laquelle R1 représente un radical alkyle linéaire comportant 8 à 9 atomes de carbone et R2 représente un radical alkyle linéaire comportant 8 atomes de carbone, ou (3) dans laquelle R1 représente un radical alkyle linéaire comportant 7 à 9 atomes de carbone et R2 représente un radical alkyle linéaire comportant 7 atomes, ou (4) dans laquelle R1 représente un radical alkyle comportant 7 ou 8 atomes de carbone et R2 un radical alkyle comportant 9 atomes de carbone, si R1 représente un radical alkyle linéaire, R2 représente un radical alkyle ramifié ou si R1 représente un radical alkyle ramifié, R2 représente un radical alkyle linéaire ou (5) dans laquelle R1 représente un radical alkyle comportant 8 atomes de carbone et R2 représente un radical alkyle comportant 8 atomes de carbone, si R1 représente un radical alkyle linéaire, R2 représente un radical alkyle ramifié ou si R1 représente un radical alkyle ramifié, R2 représente un radical alkyle linéaire, ou des esters d'acide n-octyl-i-octanique, esters d'acide n-décyl-i-octanique, esters d'acide n-décyl-i-nonanique, esters d'acide i-nonyl-n-décanique, esters d'acide n-heptyl-n-dodécanique, esters d'acide i-nonyl-i-octanique. L'invention concerne en outre des préparations cosmétiques et/ou pharmaceutiques qui contiennent au moins un de ces esters, ainsi que des procédés pour la production desdits esters.
EP10730355A 2009-06-30 2010-06-19 Nouveaux esters et leur utilisation Ceased EP2448907A2 (fr)

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DE102009031280A DE102009031280A1 (de) 2009-06-30 2009-06-30 Neue Ester und ihre Verwendung
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PCT/EP2010/003713 WO2011000489A2 (fr) 2009-06-30 2010-06-19 Nouveaux esters et leur utilisation
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US20120100197A1 (en) 2012-04-26
CN102471224B (zh) 2015-09-30
JP5767212B2 (ja) 2015-08-19
KR20120110160A (ko) 2012-10-09
JP2012531472A (ja) 2012-12-10
CN102471224A (zh) 2012-05-23
WO2011000489A2 (fr) 2011-01-06
US9072917B2 (en) 2015-07-07
BRPI1016067A2 (pt) 2019-09-24

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