Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
  • D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
  • A41D27/02—Linings
  • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces

Definitions

• This invention relates to an elastic insert Process for their preparation and their use.
• Deposits have been in use for many years Clothing industry, especially to strengthen the Front of clothing or to reinforce Collars and cuffs used. These deposits exist from a carrier used as a woven, knitted or nonwoven can be formed, and usually from one thermoplastic adhesive in the form of a grid is applied, this adhesive with an adhesive the outer fabric of the clothing.
• Such deposits have the task of making the garment to shape and stabilize according to shape. Since they are with the Are glued, they influence the character of the finished garment in a decisive way.
• the optics, Dimensional stability, softness, comfort and the Care properties when cleaning and hanging laundry crucial to the type and structure of the used Deposit from.
• Particularly important properties of the Clothing is the look, the handle and that Care behavior of the finished item of clothing.
• the garments must also keep up with the changing fashion trends correspond. Therefore, the most varied and different outer fabrics used. Accordingly are usually also different types of deposits Reinforcement of these different outer fabrics used.
• Staple fiber yarns made of viscose (CV), cotton (CO), polyester (PES), polyacrylonitrile (PAN) or mixtures thereof are usually used for conventional fabric-based inlays.
• the fineness of the yarns used is usually between 10 and 200 Nm.
• the weight of these inserts is usually in the range from 35 to 140 g / m 2 .
• the tissues produced in this way are either crosslinked by cellulose crosslinking agents or thermally shrink-stabilized. By roughening or sanding one side of the fabric, the densest possible fiber pile is produced on the surface of the insert, thus achieving a high softness and volume as well as a closed nature of the insert. This is crucial for the handle of the finished part.
• the non-roughened fabric side is then coated with an adhesive, preferably hot-melt adhesive, by known methods.
• an adhesive preferably hot-melt adhesive
• Similar inlays are also commonly known as knitted fabrics.
• the staple fiber yarns already mentioned above are shot CV, CO, PES, PAN or mixtures thereof are used.
• the chain is usually formed from fine filament yarns that preferably consist of polyester or polyamide and a Have fineness in the range of 25 dtex to 78 dtex. Also here is the side not coated with hot melt adhesive roughened to give a soft feel and high volume achieve and setback of the coating by the To prevent insert through.
• Nonwovens are also used as carrier materials for inlays.
• the weight of such inserts, which are used for the front fixing of clothing, is usually between 20 and 80 g / m 2 .
• the consolidation takes place thermally by means of calender rolls engraved in a grid.
• the nonwovens are often additionally reinforced with warp and / or weft threads, which can be knitted in. These threads also consist of the fine filament yarns mentioned above or of textured polyester filaments. These nonwovens can be coated with hot melt adhesives.
• the fleece character means that the risk of the coating kicking back through the outer fabric is usually low. However, it is disadvantageous in any case that this type of insert does not have the volume and soft feel of the above-mentioned roughened insert.
• EP-A-0 810 314 proposes another type of rigid insert made from air-textured yarns to add volume and soft feel receive. Similar to what is known from plush finishing, woven and knitted fabrics with loops are used. The Loops are created through the use of air-textured PES yarns. The yarns made after this special Texturing processes are made up of two Thread systems. A soul thread ensures stability. Close the loops made of air-textured PES fancy yarns the product image and ensure a soft grip. The yarns the resulting insoles are not elastic. The loop structure also entangles the Product lines with each other.
• the adhesive can also be used to fix the insert the outer fabric through the insert and / or the outer fabric penetrate.
• the fixing press is used in the Ready-made soiled and the smooth running of the Fixation disrupted by sticking cut pieces, but it also becomes the handle and thus the value of the goods of these items of clothing.
• fixation inserts In order to avoid these disadvantages, a different type of fixation insert has been developed in recent years. These are characterized by the use of false-wire textured polyester filament yarns with a fineness of 20 to 400 dtex as weft threads.
• the warp can be constructed in a similar way to that described above for the known rigid inserts, but it can also be made from textured polyester yarns with a fineness between 25 and about 167 dtex.
• Such an insert is described in DE 93 198 70 U1.
• the woven or knitted backing is in turn coated with hot melt adhesives by known methods. The weight of these inserts is usually between 35 and 120 g / m 2 .
• the properties of the fixation inserts are crucial Dimensions of the properties of the false wire textured Embossed polyester filament yarns.
• These textured false wires Polyester filament yarns are highly elastic because of them very easily with tensile loads in warp and Stretch the weft direction as well as in the diagonal pull. After the end these yarns almost sweep into the tensile load original condition.
• the elasticity in Shot direction is usually 12-25%, but can be can be increased by up to 40%.
• the elasticity is in the warp direction ideally 6-8%. There are also elasticity values up to 15% is known, however, for achieving this high Elasticity value when processing in the Apparel industry requires an increased effort.
• Textured polyester yarns are also used in combination with a fleece used. Such an insert is described in DE 44 08 813 C1. Through a steaming process Elasticity of the nonwoven composite, at least in the warp direction guaranteed. Main task of the reinforcement threads textured polyester yarns or bicomponent filament yarns is to get the desired elasticity generate and at the same time the destruction of the fleece To prevent tensile loads.
• a disadvantage of this type of deposits is that textured polyester filament yarn or Bicomponent filaments cannot be roughened because no filament ends available for filament roughening stand. Therefore, the grip failure of the insert cannot soft feel and the elegance of a rigid, roughened Reach deposit.
• JP-A-7-109647 describes a warp-knitted insert in which Weft threads are embedded, which has an elasticity of 4 to 7%. Such deposits have good properties for the sewing process. The elasticity should not exceed 7%, because otherwise there is insufficient dimensional stability.
• a weft thread is special preferably a voluminous filament yarn and an alternating spinning yarn used, a combination 1: 1 and 1: 2 is preferred, because otherwise a stripe-like Impression can arise.
• JP-A-6-240568 describes an interlining base fabric made of a fabric, the warp and / or Weft threads consist of a polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn; the one Has twist coefficients between 2000 and 8000 and that by scratching with a ruffled body has received pebble grinding. This insert stretches little and leaves therefore sew well without any tendency to wrinkle at the seams.
• the object of this invention is a price to develop competitive elastic insert that the low shrinkage values and good care properties of the Inserts made of false-wire textured PES yarns with the combines the soft feel of a classic roughened insert.
• a method for the production of such Deposit and particularly favorable uses become.
• This invention also describes a method for Production of an elastic insert with the characteristics of Claim 9.
• the insert according to the invention is preferred for reinforcement of clothing, in particular the front part or Reinforcement of collars and cuffs used.
• False-wire textured textiles are preferred as filament yarns Polyester (PES) -, polyamide (PA) - and / or polyacrylic (PAN) - Yarns used.
• PET Polyester
• PA polyamide
• PAN polyacrylic
• False wire textured yarns are in the inlay production already known for a long time.
• the false wire texturing produces highly elastic yarns with high extensibility and large Bausch volume. These yarns can now also be used as in a woven, knitted or knitted fabric with weft insertion be incorporated.
• the inserts produced according to the invention have the same elasticity, but at the same time have the soft, fluffy handle of the classic insert. This is possible by that described in the present invention Equipment process in which the handle of the false filament textured filaments is mechanically destroyed and thus many protruding fibers arise, the optics and Let the handle of a roughened insert be made of fiber yarn.
• the textile support on which the present invention is based can be a woven, knitted or knitted fabric with weft insertion and has a weight of preferably 15 g / m 2 - 125 g / m 2 .
• at least the weft or warp, more preferably warp and weft is made of false-wire textured PES, PA or PAN filament yarns.
• the yarn count of the false wire textured PES, PA and PAN filament yarns is usually between dtex 15 and dtex 440, more preferably between 30 and 180 dtex.
• the raw fabrics thus produced are subjected to a washing and / or shrinking process as usual. Heat and moisture allow the yarns to shrink and achieve maximum elasticity. Then, if necessary, a dyeing process and thermal stabilization are carried out on the stenter. Finally, these products are coated with an adhesive, preferably with a thermoplastic hot melt adhesive or with a reactive coating composition, using the customary coating methods.
• the application can take the form of a grid, the grid being between 1 point / cm 2 and 200 points / cm 2 . Grids between 40 and 150 dots / cm 2 are preferably used.
• Sanding as a finishing effect comes especially from the Manufacture of imitation suede and "peach skin” equipment for use on fabrics and knitwear.
• the Sanding is a variant of roughening and is done on one Emery machine performed.
• the surface of the web is specifically targeted by a Roughened on one or more emery rolls.
• the Goods thus have a velvety character, which is characterized by the use of different types of emery paper can be controlled.
• Roughening can be a common Emery machine, e.g. one made from H.K. Rouette, Lexicon for textile finishing, Laumann-Verlag Dülmen, 1995, pages 1909, 1910.
• the emery paper is preferably made of a flexible Carriers such as paper, latex paper, tissue, foils, fleece or Combination fibers with evenly sprinkled abrasive grain and is spiraled onto the at least one emery roller wound. These rollers can work independently be driven and optionally with or against the goods run grind.
• a flexible Carriers such as paper, latex paper, tissue, foils, fleece or Combination fibers with evenly sprinkled abrasive grain and is spiraled onto the at least one emery roller wound. These rollers can work independently be driven and optionally with or against the goods run grind.
• the grain size is dependent on the amount of granules Area unit determined and can be in the range of 40-1000 being preferred in the goods described according to the invention a grain size in the range of 100-500 was used.
• the Grinding of the granules causes the Fiber ends on the surface of the goods and thus gives it a velor-like character.
• Such a roughened insert is for the person skilled in the art surprising in that filaments have neither fiber ends - as with the staple fiber yarns of the classic interlining articles - still loops - as with polar articles with special Goods construction or with air-textured yarns - for Are available that are sanded or erected can.
• the fiber ends need for a soft and roughened handle are necessary to be generated only by the filaments are torn in many places. To have to many filaments are destroyed in order to make one as possible dense and even pile from protruding fiber ends create.
• the roughening process can be carried out in different ways Stages of the procedure are carried out. Does the find Roughening (emery) cut after coating with the Adhesive instead, so some coating material penetrates into the Threads of the insert and provides an additional Stabilization. Surprisingly, this is also the case if the sanded side of the coated side opposite. The tendency to fray is low because the coating compound, even if it is on the opposite side, for additional stability provides. The individual fibers are through the remnants of the Coating compound partially glued together. moreover not all filaments are completely roughened severed so that sufficient residual strength is available. The inserts produced in this way have a excellent volume and are according to the invention particularly preferred.
• False wire textured yarns are used in addition have a rotation.
• the rotation can be 20 T / m - 1000 T / m amount, but is preferably 100 T / m - 400 T / m.
• the roughening or emery step can also be done before Coating with adhesive or during pretreatment be performed. In this case, care should be taken that there are no thread pullers or thread shifts occur.
• thermoplastic hot melt adhesive is preferably used and applied in a raster form.
• a hot melt adhesive based on (CO) polyamide, (CO) polyester or polyethylene or a mixture of the materials mentioned is particularly preferred.
• the application weight is generally 4 to 30 g / m 2 , preferably 6 to 25 g / m 2 .
• the emery machine is a full roll emery machine.
• slatted-roller emery machines are also known in practice. These slatted rollers wear individual, attached parallel to each other Emery strips and are particularly suitable for dense, voluminous fabrics with natural fibers.
• Another variant is the scraper roughing machine, in which the rollers with a Scratching tape are wrapped and a much denser Can produce fiber pile.
• Binding Cross twill 1/3, this unequal binding creates weft floats, the goods are sanded on the weft side Total weight: approx. 60 g / m 2 Coating: 11 g / m 2 polyamide hot melt adhesive
• Example 2 Fabric for reinforcing collars and cuffs
• Binding Cross twill 1/3, this unequal binding creates weft floats, the goods are sanded on the weft side. total weight approx. 95 g / m 2 coating 25 / m 2 polyethylene hot melt adhesive
• this can Emery process at various points in the Manufacturing chain to be carried out. It is the first time possible with conventional false wire textured yarns Look and grip of a classic roughened insert generate and share these properties with the benefits of to connect elastic inserts.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Details Of Garments (AREA)
• Materials For Medical Uses (AREA)
• Absorbent Articles And Supports Therefor (AREA)
• Shaping By String And By Release Of Stress In Plastics And The Like (AREA)
• Cable Accessories (AREA)
• Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
• Laminated Bodies (AREA)
• Springs (AREA)
• Lining Or Joining Of Plastics Or The Like (AREA)

Priority Applications (17)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Publications (2)

Family

ID=8237442

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (8)

Families Citing this family (2)

Family Cites Families (3)

• 1999
  • 1999-02-03 AT AT99101614T patent/ATE264627T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
  • 1999-02-03 SI SI9930553T patent/SI1025766T1/xx unknown
  • 1999-02-03 EP EP99101614A patent/EP1025766B1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1999-02-03 DK DK99101614T patent/DK1025766T3/da active
  • 1999-02-03 DE DE59909234T patent/DE59909234D1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1999-02-03 ES ES99101614T patent/ES2216359T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1999-02-03 PT PT99101614T patent/PT1025766E/pt unknown
• 2001
  • 2001-02-08 HK HK01100898A patent/HK1030728A1/xx not_active IP Right Cessation

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