EP0834609A1 - Gewebe zur Herstellung von Bekleidung sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes - Google Patents

Gewebe zur Herstellung von Bekleidung sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0834609A1
EP0834609A1 EP97890178A EP97890178A EP0834609A1 EP 0834609 A1 EP0834609 A1 EP 0834609A1 EP 97890178 A EP97890178 A EP 97890178A EP 97890178 A EP97890178 A EP 97890178A EP 0834609 A1 EP0834609 A1 EP 0834609A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
threads
thread
different
cotton
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP97890178A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Albert Thurner
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Tiroler Loden GmbH
Original Assignee
Tiroler Loden GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Tiroler Loden GmbH filed Critical Tiroler Loden GmbH
Publication of EP0834609A1 publication Critical patent/EP0834609A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T428/00—Stock material or miscellaneous articles
    • Y10T428/24—Structurally defined web or sheet [e.g., overall dimension, etc.]
    • Y10T428/24149—Honeycomb-like
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3179—Woven fabric is characterized by a particular or differential weave other than fabric in which the strand denier or warp/weft pick count is specified
    • Y10T442/3195—Three-dimensional weave [e.g., x-y-z planes, multi-planar warps and/or wefts, etc.]
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3179—Woven fabric is characterized by a particular or differential weave other than fabric in which the strand denier or warp/weft pick count is specified
    • Y10T442/322—Warp differs from weft
    • Y10T442/3228—Materials differ
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3179—Woven fabric is characterized by a particular or differential weave other than fabric in which the strand denier or warp/weft pick count is specified
    • Y10T442/322—Warp differs from weft
    • Y10T442/3228—Materials differ
    • Y10T442/3236—Including inorganic strand material
    • Y10T442/3244—Including natural strand material [e.g., cotton, wool, etc.]
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3472—Woven fabric including an additional woven fabric layer
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3472—Woven fabric including an additional woven fabric layer
    • Y10T442/3528—Three or more fabric layers
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/60—Nonwoven fabric [i.e., nonwoven strand or fiber material]
    • Y10T442/69—Autogenously bonded nonwoven fabric

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a fabric for the production of clothing, from at least two different threads. and a method for producing such a fabric.
  • Double fabrics or so-called double fabrics are known.
  • one side of the Double fabrics e.g. made of a smooth fabric for the side facing the body or a rough fabric to prevent the fabric from slipping when used as a blanket or a waterproof fabric for those facing away from the body and the weather exposed side of a garment and the like.
  • the same effect can be achieved by two different materials, which are connected by sewing, gluing or the like are achieved.
  • the visible sewing thread disturbs the appearance of the when sewing Fabric and beyond, this connection is easy if the sewing thread is damaged solvable.
  • Gluing in turn has a negative effect on the properties of the fabric, whereby this can lose softness.
  • An adhesive can be used when using the fabric for an item of clothing can also adversely affect air permeability.
  • the object of the invention is to create a fabric for the production of clothing at least two different threads, which on one side essentially through the one thread certain properties and on the other hand essentially the has properties determined by the other thread (s) while avoiding the disadvantages mentioned above.
  • the fabric should be optically from at least one side in the essentially like a single variety, i.e. just look like a thread.
  • the object of the invention is achieved in that the fabric from an upper fabric and a lower fabric. whereby the upper fabric consists exclusively of one thread and the lower fabric is formed exclusively from the other thread or threads and the upper fabric with the lower fabric by hanging individual ones in places Threads of the lower fabric on threads of the. the side of the Upper tissue is connected. Both the upper fabric and the lower fabric look like a single fabric with all its properties. The connection of the Upper fabric made with the lower fabric without additional aids.
  • the object of the invention is also achieved in that the top of the fabric predominantly from one thread and the underside of the fabric predominantly from the other thread or the other threads is formed.
  • This type of fabric has the same Advantages like a fabric according to the previous paragraph. Since the two sides of the Fabric consist mainly of the different threads, are also Properties of both sides of the fabric according to the threads used differently.
  • the top of the fabric preferably at least 99.3% from one thread and the underside of the fabric 90%, preferably 99.3% from the other thread or threads. This will when looking at the two sides of the fabric, the visual impression conveys that it is two different. superimposed fabrics.
  • the respective Transfer the properties of the materials used to the respective side of the fabric will. This allows different fabric properties on the front and the Back of the fabric can be achieved.
  • this can also serve as a lining material, so that for the production of Garments do not have to have their own lining material sewn in.
  • one thread consists essentially of wool and the other thread or the other threads essentially of cotton.
  • the fabric side made of wool is thus advantageously for the outside of the fabric and the fabric side made of cotton for those side of the fabric facing the body.
  • any other are also Materials such as Silk or synthetic fiber for the smooth side of the fabric and various Combinations possible.
  • loden if the upper fabric formed by the wool thread or the top of the tissue is a loden or loden-like tissue.
  • Loden consists of 100% Virgin wool and is particularly tearproof and cold-protecting. Loden garments guarantee optimal comfort. because by structuring this type of substance Heat exchange takes place and breathability is given.
  • Such a fabric works from outside like a loden or loden-like substance, with the side facing the body the advantages of smooth cotton come into play. Thereby, if possible no hairs of the woolen fabric penetrate the side of the cotton fabric.
  • the lower fabric or the underside of the fabric is denser than the upper fabric or the top of the fabric. it is also prevented that e.g. the coarse threads of wool Upper fabric or the top of the fabric by e.g. consisting of cotton threads Can penetrate the lower fabric or the underside of the fabric and thus the smooth structure of the cotton fabric.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a method for Production of the fabric according to the invention, which is quick and special economic production allowed.
  • the task of producing a fabric which consists of an upper fabric and an associated sub-fabric as described above. thereby. that the fabric in a single weaving process from at least two different ones Threads is produced.
  • This allows a secure connection of the upper fabric with the Lower fabric during the weaving process without the use of additional funds be accomplished and thus avoid slipping of the two tissues.
  • the properties of the lower fabric are matched to the fact that the If the loden fabric is flexed, the length of the fabric will not be waved or arched evokes.
  • the woolen fabric gets the characteristic felted quality through the flexing Structure. while the cotton fabric only shrinks by a certain degree experiences.
  • the ratio of the number of one thread used in weaving is advantageous different from the number of the other thread or threads, preferably 2: 1. This allows the density and related properties of the upper fabric and of the lower tissue can be influenced in a targeted manner.
  • the task of producing a fabric is solved one thread and its underside predominantly from the other thread or the other Threads. in that the fabric is produced in a single weaving process, the warp threads exclusively through the one thread and the weft threads exclusively are formed by the other thread or the other threads.
  • Weaving technique By clever choice of Weaving technique, the optical effect of a double fabric can be achieved. although only there is a single fabric consisting of at least two different threads.
  • Fig. 1 shows the cross section of a fabric, in which by a corresponding Weaving technique the optical design of the fabric with two different Goods pages made of two different fabrics and therefore different Goods character is possible.
  • the cut threads represent the warp threads K and the crosswise extending threads represent the weft threads S.
  • Fig. La is the construction of a fabric according to the invention, which consists of an upper fabric and a related lower fabric.
  • FIG. 1b-1e the sketch shows the pushing together of the warp threads K and weft threads S and the measures so that two separate layers of fabric can be seen. that are connected to each other only at certain points.
  • the symbols according to FIG. 1b mean the binding technique for the upper fabric.
  • the symbols according to FIG. 1c represent the weaving technique for the lower fabric.
  • the symbols according to FIG. 1d indicate the crossing points between the top warp threads and the weft threads.
  • the top warp thread must generally be lifted over the weft thread so that two separate fabric layers are created.
  • the symbols " X" according to FIG. 1e indicate some points of intersection between the lower warp thread and the upper weft thread. Here the lower warp thread is lifted over the upper weft thread, so that a woven connection between the upper fabric and the lower fabric is created.
  • the weaver (cartridge) specification is a representation of the pattern in the weave. This includes the respective positions of the warp threads and the weft threads during the weaving process. 1f applies to 24 x 24 threads. This binding part is repeated according to the size of the fabric to be woven.
  • the positions of the warp threads K1 to K24 are shown on the upper, horizontal part of the regulation. According to this regulation, the warp threads are alternately formed by a wool thread 1 for the upper fabric and two cotton threads 2 for the lower fabric. The weft threads are drawn in between the warp threads during the weaving process.
  • the weft threads S1-S24 are shown on the left, vertical side of the regulation.
  • the weft threads consisting of wool threads 1 come to lie above the weft threads consisting of cotton threads 2. According to the invention, each wool thread 1 and a certain number of cotton threads 2 are lifted with each “ weft” of a cotton thread 2. This results in the separation of the two tissues. ie the upper fabric consisting of the wool threads 1 is formed on one side and the lower fabric consisting of the cotton threads 2 on the other side of the fabric according to the invention and connected to one another at individual points “ X”. In the regulation shown, this connection between the fabrics is made at diagonally arranged points " X". In addition to such a diagonal binding, the connection points can also be arranged differently.
  • a variant would be, for example, a so-called atlas-shaped binding of the lower tissue to the upper tissue.
  • the fabric according to the invention is subjected to a milling process after weaving, as a result of which the fabric undergoes shrinkage and the side of the wool fabric is given the characteristic appearance of a loden. Because of the smooth structure of the cotton, the cotton fabric cannot have a loden-like appearance. When walking, make sure that the two fabrics do not shrink differently, otherwise the fabric would bulge or wrinkle, which could make further processing of the fabric difficult or impossible. The connection between the wool fabric and the cotton fabric is not visible from the side of the wool fabric.
  • the fabric according to the invention appears from the side of the wool fabric like a conventional loden, although according to the invention a second fabric, in this case a cotton fabric, is connected to the loden.
  • the diagonally arranged connection points can be recognized as a diagonal structure.
  • the cotton fabric for example, can significantly increase the wearing properties of the loden, since the cotton fabric is smoother than loden and therefore more comfortable to wear.
  • the properties can be further influenced by appropriate selection of the thickness and number of wool and cotton threads. For example, the density of the cotton fabric can be increased so that no threads or thread parts of the loden can penetrate the cotton fabric and thus can impair the smooth structure.
  • Fig. 1g shows the section A-A of Fig. 1a, at a location on the fabric where the Upper fabric O is connected to the lower fabric U, so that the connection points on the The top of the goods are not visible.
  • Hiebei are those built from cotton threads 2
  • the connection between the upper fabric O and the lower fabric U, which is accomplished by the weft S11 and the warp K9 is from the Underside of goods visible.
  • FIGS. 1a and 1f show representations similar to FIGS. 1a and 1f, but for a Tissue. in which the weft of the upper fabric is connected to the lower fabric in this way is that the thread of the upper fabric remains visible in the lower fabric.
  • FIG. 2c shows a section through the tissue according to FIG. 2a along the section line B-B,
  • the twelfth weft thread S12 consisting of a cotton thread 2 is according to FIG 2a with the eighth warp thread K8 consisting of a wool thread 1 connected according to the sketch, so that the connection is not visible, as this through the weft thread S11 is covered.
  • FIG. 3a shows the regulation for the weaver for a fabric according to the invention from at least two different threads 1, 2, the upper side of which consists predominantly of one thread 1 and the underside of which is predominantly formed from the other thread 2 or the other threads. It is a repeat of 6 x 6 threads.
  • This binding part is repeated according to the size of the fabric to be woven.
  • all warp threads K1 to K6 consist of one material, here cotton 2 and all Weft threads S1 to S6 from the other material, here wool 1.
  • the binding technique produces the effect that on the top of the fabric at least 90%, preferably 99.3% of the wool threads 1 and on the underside of the fabric at least 90%, preferably 99.3% of the cotton threads 2 come to rest.
  • FIG. 3b shows a cross section through a fabric according to FIG. 3a, the warp threads K1 to K6 are made of one material, in this case of cotton threads 2, while all Weft threads S1 to S6 are constructed from wool threads 1.
  • binding techniques shown only show examples for realizing a fabric of the invention. Of course, others are also within the scope of the invention Binding techniques conceivable.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
EP97890178A 1996-09-18 1997-09-09 Gewebe zur Herstellung von Bekleidung sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes Withdrawn EP0834609A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT1651/96 1996-09-18
AT0165196A AT404142B (de) 1996-09-18 1996-09-18 Gewebe zur herstellung von bekleidung sowie verfahren zur herstellung eines solchen gewebes

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0834609A1 true EP0834609A1 (de) 1998-04-08

Family

ID=3518028

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP97890178A Withdrawn EP0834609A1 (de) 1996-09-18 1997-09-09 Gewebe zur Herstellung von Bekleidung sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US6110850A (ja)
EP (1) EP0834609A1 (ja)
JP (1) JPH10121347A (ja)
AT (1) AT404142B (ja)

Families Citing this family (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR100788295B1 (ko) * 2007-03-09 2007-12-27 주움텍스타일 주식회사 연마기재 및 연마포
CN102031619A (zh) * 2010-12-14 2011-04-27 仲柏俭 一种工业用仿皮面料
CN102041596A (zh) * 2010-12-14 2011-05-04 仲柏俭 一种牛仔面料
FR3030583B1 (fr) * 2014-12-23 2017-06-16 Europrotect France Sa Textile pour la fabrication de vetements de protection contre le feu
FI20206371A1 (en) * 2020-12-23 2022-06-24 Valmet Technologies Inc Industrial textile
IT202100009923A1 (it) * 2021-04-20 2022-10-20 Fabrica Tessuti S R L Processo per la realizzazione di un tessuto per cappotti e tessuto cosi' ottenuto

Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA1076928A (en) * 1978-03-06 1980-05-06 Bruce E. Bartels Fabic
EP0144530A2 (de) * 1983-08-17 1985-06-19 Hermann Wangner GmbH & Co. KG Bespannung für Papiermaschinen
US5052448A (en) * 1989-02-10 1991-10-01 Huyck Corporation Self stitching multilayer papermaking fabric
US5219004A (en) * 1992-02-06 1993-06-15 Lindsay Wire, Inc. Multi-ply papermaking fabric with binder warps
DE9315978U1 (de) * 1993-10-20 1994-04-21 Trevira GmbH & Co KG, 60528 Frankfurt Lichtabsorbierendes dekoratives Textilmaterial

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3705345A1 (de) * 1987-02-19 1988-09-01 Oberdorfer Fa F Verbundgewebe als bespannung fuer den blattbildungsteil einer papiermaschine
FI81624C (fi) * 1988-12-08 1990-11-12 Tamfelt Oy Ab Pappersmaskinduk.
DE4301501A1 (de) * 1993-01-21 1994-07-28 Grohe Kg Hans Schieber für eine Wandstange

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CA1076928A (en) * 1978-03-06 1980-05-06 Bruce E. Bartels Fabic
EP0144530A2 (de) * 1983-08-17 1985-06-19 Hermann Wangner GmbH & Co. KG Bespannung für Papiermaschinen
US5052448A (en) * 1989-02-10 1991-10-01 Huyck Corporation Self stitching multilayer papermaking fabric
US5219004A (en) * 1992-02-06 1993-06-15 Lindsay Wire, Inc. Multi-ply papermaking fabric with binder warps
DE9315978U1 (de) * 1993-10-20 1994-04-21 Trevira GmbH & Co KG, 60528 Frankfurt Lichtabsorbierendes dekoratives Textilmaterial

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPH10121347A (ja) 1998-05-12
US6110850A (en) 2000-08-29
AT404142B (de) 1998-08-25
ATA165196A (de) 1998-01-15

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