EP0020676B1 - Kragen für ein kleidungsstück - Google Patents
Kragen für ein kleidungsstück Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0020676B1 EP0020676B1 EP80900023A EP80900023A EP0020676B1 EP 0020676 B1 EP0020676 B1 EP 0020676B1 EP 80900023 A EP80900023 A EP 80900023A EP 80900023 A EP80900023 A EP 80900023A EP 0020676 B1 EP0020676 B1 EP 0020676B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- collar
- fold
- piece
- insert
- interlining
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 abstract description 9
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 15
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 8
- 206010040954 Skin wrinkling Diseases 0.000 description 4
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000018109 developmental process Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003292 glue Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000012447 hatching Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001169 thermoplastic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004416 thermosoftening plastic Substances 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B5/00—Fold-line formings for collars or cuffs
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B3/00—Collars
Definitions
- the invention relates to a collar for a piece of clothing, in particular for a shirt or a blouse, with an upper collar, a collar and an intermediate fold line, which is composed of an outer fabric having an outer collar and an underside of the collar and an insert, at least the outer fabric being made of made of a piece of textile material and a break strip corresponding to the break line is provided in the insert.
- the outer fabric i.e. the outside and underside of the collar and the insert for the manufacture of the upper collar and the collar each consist of a single piece of textile material.
- the manufacturing effort was noticeably reduced as a result, the preferred shape of the two-piece collar, in particular the shape of the collar tips, could not be achieved.
- the one-piece collar has a relatively easily identifiable difference in quality with respect to the two-piece collar produced with a loose or adhesive insert, which has an unfavorable effect on pricing.
- a collar insert is known (US-A-2 186 387), which has a soft, easily foldable band at the point where the fold line of the collar lies and for a simpler compared to a two-piece collar, but not the appearance of the Two-piece collar-reaching one-piece collar is used.
- a one-piece collar is known (US-A-4 040 125) which is worn as an open and closed collar and accordingly has two slotted strips for the definition of the wrapping line. This collar also lacks the appearance of a two-piece collar.
- the invention has for its object a collar of the type described above, i.e. a one-piece collar, so that it has the appearance and properties of the two-piece collar.
- the insert and the outside of the collar on one side of the fold line have a first fold directed against the upper collar and a second fold directed opposite the collar, the folds being held together by at least one seam and the course the folds are each determined by a break strip of the insert.
- an insert 1 which contains differently stiffened parts and unstiffened, i.e. has soft parts.
- the insert 1 shown in FIG. 1 has a stiffened area 2 shown as a cross-hatched area, while the unstiffened soft areas are provided without hatching; these are seam allowances 3, 4, 5 and three interruption strips 6, 7, 8, which extend almost over the entire length of the insert 1.
- the strips 6, 7, 8 form places where there is a fold each when the collar is formed is coming.
- the strip 8 represents the break, i.e. the fold between the externally visible upper collar 9 and the inner collar 10.
- the insert 1 is connected to the collar outside 15 shown in Fig. 2, e.g. glued.
- FIG. 3 shows a section through the collar outside 15, which is glued to the insert 1.
- a first fold I is formed, see FIG. 4, in which the collar outside 15 lies on the inside, and the Fold I is sewn together by a seam 16.
- the fold I - and also the folds shown in FIG. 5 - is drawn as a bent part; in reality the two parts of the collar 15 lie on top of each other and the fold I and the other folds form relatively sharp edges.
- the collar 15 thus shaped is now sewn together with the outer fabric of a collar underside 20 shown in FIG. 6. Since a part consisting of three layers and the two folds I and 11 is formed with the collar outside 15, the smooth collar underside 20 can have a correspondingly smaller width.
- the collar underside 20 is now pre-sewn with a collar 18 with a collar 18 like a normal one-piece collar and then the collar is turned over; the outside of the collar 15 and the underside of the collar 20 are then on the outside and the seam 18 is on the inside, see FIG. 5.
- the edge of the upper collar 9 can be provided with a further seam 19.
- the seam allowances 11, 12 provided on the edges of the collar 10 are made in the manner indicated in Fig. 5 with the garment, e.g. with a shirt or blouse sewn together. Now the break can be formed by folding the upper collar 9 along the strip 8 relative to the collar 10.
- the collar described has a considerably lower workload than the two-piece collar.
- the collar consists of only three parts and can therefore be made like a one-piece collar if the folds I and II are formed, so there is no seam crimp in the lower collar along the fold.
- a jump occurs due to different lengths of the strips 6, 7, 8, i.e. a shape that can otherwise only be achieved with two-piece collars with different curvatures of the upper collar and collar.
- the insert 1 can be made as desired, e.g. with stiffened print or glue on an additional insert.
- the strips 6, 7 can also be punched.
- the strip 8 forming the break can optionally also be stiffened or punched.
- FIGS. 7-10 Further simplifications in the manufacture of the collar are shown in FIGS. 7-10.
- FIG. 7 shows the fold or wrapping area of the insert 1; the fold I is, however, provided with a perforation 25 forming the break strip, see FIG. 8.
- the position of the fold I is determined by the perforation 25, see FIG. 9, and at the same time the formation of the fold or fold area between the upper collar 9 and the collar 10 relieved.
- a continuous cut can also form the break strip at the same location on the insert 1.
- the perforation 25 can also be applied to an insert in which the stiffening of the insert is achieved by corresponding stiffening parts 26, 27.
- the stiffening of the insert is achieved by corresponding stiffening parts 26, 27.
- the perforation 25 can also be used here in the insert 1 to reduce the application of the folds, see FIG. 9 .
- An even greater reduction in application is achieved according to FIG. 10; here the fold 1 is trimmed instead of the perforation 25 and the edge of the fold I is removed.
- the collar according to FIG. 5 requires a little more textile material for the formation of the fold or wrapping area both for the insert 1 and for the outer fabric of the collar outside 15 than for the simple one-piece collar.
- the folds I, II When the folds I, II are formed, it is possible to vary the design of the insert 1 in almost any way and to provide them with stiffening parts or additional stiffening parts and with narrow or wide incisions in the region of the folds I, II.
- the unstiffened strips 6, 7 shown in FIG. 1, provided for the formation of the folds I, II can be replaced by two incisions or also by a single cut. In the latter case, the folds I, II lie on the edges of this incision.
- the actual break line corresponding to the strip 8 can, for. B. be formed by the edge of an additional stiffening part as in Fig. 8. An additional stiffening part can also be provided only in the collar.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CH13137/78 | 1978-12-22 | ||
CH1313778A CH635496A5 (en) | 1978-12-22 | 1978-12-22 | Collar for a garment |
CH9368/79 | 1979-10-18 | ||
CH936879A CH640709A5 (en) | 1979-10-18 | 1979-10-18 | Collar for a garment |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0020676A1 EP0020676A1 (de) | 1981-01-07 |
EP0020676B1 true EP0020676B1 (de) | 1984-04-18 |
Family
ID=25704714
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP80900023A Expired EP0020676B1 (de) | 1978-12-22 | 1980-07-01 | Kragen für ein kleidungsstück |
Country Status (12)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US4375107A (cs) |
EP (1) | EP0020676B1 (cs) |
JP (1) | JPS55501102A (cs) |
AT (1) | AT387309B (cs) |
CS (1) | CS223976B2 (cs) |
DE (2) | DE2953408C1 (cs) |
GB (1) | GB2051558B (cs) |
NL (1) | NL186891C (cs) |
RO (1) | RO81462B (cs) |
SE (1) | SE446496B (cs) |
SU (1) | SU1075944A3 (cs) |
WO (1) | WO1980001233A1 (cs) |
Families Citing this family (11)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
GB2209924A (en) * | 1987-09-24 | 1989-06-01 | Slimma Menswear Limited | Collar and means for making |
AT412727B (de) | 2003-12-03 | 2005-06-27 | Boehler Edelstahl | Korrosionsbeständige, austenitische stahllegierung |
ES2213495B1 (es) * | 2004-03-10 | 2005-06-16 | Javier Lopez Fernandez | Cuellos de camisas. |
DE602005022086D1 (de) * | 2005-11-29 | 2010-08-12 | Arc Teryx Equipment Inc | Mehrschichtiger Kragen |
FR2902980B1 (fr) * | 2006-06-29 | 2008-10-03 | Lainiere De Picardie Bc | Entoilage comprenant des bandes associees sur une couche support pour former des bandes libres de pliure |
US8024817B2 (en) * | 2008-04-11 | 2011-09-27 | Neil Pryde Limited | Wetsuit, neck opening for wetsuit and method of making same |
US8161574B2 (en) * | 2008-05-16 | 2012-04-24 | Nike, Inc. | Apparel with raised course crease |
RU2377943C1 (ru) * | 2008-07-14 | 2010-01-10 | Государственное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования Амурский государственный университет (ГОУВПО "АмГУ") | Способ изготовления втачного воротника |
USD728895S1 (en) | 2013-10-18 | 2015-05-12 | Ira Levinas | Shirt collar |
CN110122960A (zh) * | 2019-05-18 | 2019-08-16 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | 用于衣领合拢的辅助尺 |
US11433791B2 (en) * | 2020-04-09 | 2022-09-06 | Lear Corporation | Trim assembly for a vehicle seat and method of forming |
Family Cites Families (24)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US1521152A (en) * | 1921-07-02 | 1924-12-30 | Cluett Peabody & Company Inc | Fold-over collar and art of making the same |
FR560132A (fr) * | 1922-12-21 | 1923-09-28 | Loncle Freres | Perfectionnements apportés dans la confection des faux-cols |
AT99100B (de) * | 1924-05-10 | 1925-01-26 | K Roubiczek & Co Fa | Umlege- bzw. Doppelkragen. |
US1851222A (en) * | 1928-01-21 | 1932-03-29 | Turpan Peter | Collar |
US1787113A (en) * | 1928-10-02 | 1930-12-30 | Elsie C Larson | Collar and cuff |
US1994600A (en) * | 1932-03-19 | 1935-03-19 | Louis H Weinstein | Collar |
GB443870A (en) * | 1934-06-13 | 1936-03-09 | Paul Metzger Bauer | Improvements in or relating to washable articles of wearing apparel |
GB443126A (en) * | 1935-01-21 | 1936-02-21 | Charles Adkin Roxby Thornberry | Improvements in the manufacture of collars for personal wear |
US2152094A (en) * | 1938-06-13 | 1939-03-28 | Rubinstein Wilton | Collar |
DE1610543A1 (de) * | 1951-01-28 | 1971-05-06 | Nino Gmbh & Co | Einlage fuer Kragen u.dgl. |
FR1050613A (fr) * | 1952-02-07 | 1954-01-08 | R Gravereaux Ets | Perfectionnements aux cols et manchettes |
GB757898A (en) * | 1953-02-12 | 1956-09-26 | James Victor Crowther | Improvements relating to collars and cuffs for shirts |
GB767185A (en) * | 1954-10-26 | 1957-01-30 | R H & S Rogers Ltd | Improvements in or relating to shirt collars |
GB772123A (en) * | 1955-09-22 | 1957-04-10 | Cluett Peabody & Co Inc | Collars for garments |
FR1132222A (fr) * | 1955-10-11 | 1957-03-06 | Cluett Peabody & Co Inc | Col pour vêtement ou chemise et procédé de fabrication |
FR1422283A (fr) * | 1964-11-10 | 1965-12-24 | Faure Bertrand Ets | Véhicule habitable perfectionné |
DE1956902U (de) * | 1966-07-09 | 1967-03-16 | Nino G M B H & Co | Einlage fuer kragen u. dgl. |
GB1237196A (en) * | 1967-12-15 | 1971-06-30 | Bondina Limited | Folded linings or interlinings |
JPS5153360Y2 (cs) * | 1971-07-01 | 1976-12-20 | ||
JPS5215186Y2 (cs) * | 1971-07-06 | 1977-04-05 | ||
JPS5120319A (ja) * | 1974-08-09 | 1976-02-18 | Daihatsu Motor Co Ltd | Kyanpingukaa |
US4040125A (en) * | 1976-05-20 | 1977-08-09 | Blue Sidney D | Convertible shirt collar |
GB1512859A (en) * | 1976-11-04 | 1978-06-01 | Bondina Ltd | Under-collar stiffeners made from non-woven fabrics |
DE2944453C2 (de) * | 1979-11-03 | 1984-07-12 | Wendler Einlagen Gmbh & Co Kg, 7410 Reutlingen | Kragen für Bekleidungsstücke und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung |
-
1979
- 1979-12-18 DE DE2953408A patent/DE2953408C1/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1979-12-18 WO PCT/CH1979/000162 patent/WO1980001233A1/de not_active Application Discontinuation
- 1979-12-18 US US06/200,502 patent/US4375107A/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1979-12-18 AT AT0906179A patent/AT387309B/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1979-12-18 JP JP50007279A patent/JPS55501102A/ja active Pending
- 1979-12-18 GB GB8026875A patent/GB2051558B/en not_active Expired
- 1979-12-18 DE DE79CH7900162D patent/DE2953408D2/de not_active Expired
- 1979-12-18 NL NLAANVRAGE7920169,A patent/NL186891C/xx not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1979-12-19 CS CS799055A patent/CS223976B2/cs unknown
-
1980
- 1980-07-01 EP EP80900023A patent/EP0020676B1/de not_active Expired
- 1980-08-20 RO RO102010A patent/RO81462B/ro unknown
- 1980-08-21 SU SU802977956A patent/SU1075944A3/ru active
- 1980-08-21 SE SE8005866A patent/SE446496B/sv unknown
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
NL7920169A (nl) | 1980-10-31 |
GB2051558B (en) | 1983-05-18 |
DE2953408C1 (de) | 1993-05-06 |
RO81462A (ro) | 1984-05-12 |
NL186891B (nl) | 1990-11-01 |
US4375107A (en) | 1983-03-01 |
EP0020676A1 (de) | 1981-01-07 |
AT387309B (de) | 1989-01-10 |
GB2051558A (en) | 1981-01-21 |
SE8005866L (sv) | 1980-08-21 |
JPS55501102A (cs) | 1980-12-11 |
ATA906179A (de) | 1988-06-15 |
CS223976B2 (en) | 1983-11-25 |
DE2953408D2 (en) | 1982-02-11 |
WO1980001233A1 (en) | 1980-06-26 |
RO81462B (ro) | 1984-06-30 |
SU1075944A3 (ru) | 1984-02-23 |
NL186891C (nl) | 1991-04-02 |
SE446496B (sv) | 1986-09-22 |
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Legal Events
Date | Code | Title | Description |
---|---|---|---|
PUAI | Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012 |
|
17P | Request for examination filed |
Effective date: 19800818 |
|
AK | Designated contracting states |
Designated state(s): FR |
|
GRAA | (expected) grant |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009210 |
|
AK | Designated contracting states |
Designated state(s): FR |
|
ET | Fr: translation filed | ||
PLBI | Opposition filed |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009260 |
|
26 | Opposition filed |
Opponent name: ETACOL INTERNATIONAL AG Effective date: 19850117 |
|
RDAG | Patent revoked |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009271 |
|
STAA | Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent |
Free format text: STATUS: PATENT REVOKED |
|
PGFP | Annual fee paid to national office [announced via postgrant information from national office to epo] |
Ref country code: FR Payment date: 19901215 Year of fee payment: 12 |
|
27W | Patent revoked |
Effective date: 19901012 |
|
APAH | Appeal reference modified |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSCREFNO |