EP0020676B1 - Collar for garment - Google Patents

Abstract

In a piece formed of an outer face of the collar (15) and of an inserted part (1) a flexion area is formed having two pleats (I, II); these two pleats are joined together by seams (16, 17). The formation of these pleats is readily achieved by the presence of the inserted portion (1); in the flexion area, the inserted portion (1) which is generally stuck to the outer face of the collar (15) has non-reinforced bands (6, 7) in the area of the pleats (I, II) and a band for the flexion. The bands (6, 8) may also be replaced by incisions or perforations. The piece thus formed may be sewn, turned over and quilted with the lower part of the collar (20) as a one-piece collar. Despite the appearance of higher labour and material cost with the respect to a one-piece collar, the two-piece collar is a label of quality for the garment.

Description

The invention relates to a collar for a piece of clothing, in particular for a shirt or a blouse, with an upper collar, a collar and an intermediate fold line, which is composed of an outer fabric having an outer collar and an underside of the collar and an insert, at least the outer fabric being made of made of a piece of textile material and a break strip corresponding to the break line is provided in the insert.

It is known to produce collars for garments as a two-piece collar, an upper collar and a collar being manufactured separately and then sewn together. The lower edge of the upper collar and the upper edge of the collar can be provided with a different curvature, which gives the upper collar and the collar a special but desired shape when worn, which means that the upper collar and the collar are close together on the neck and eject Adjust collar tips.

Because of the expense of producing a two-piece collar, considerable efforts have been made to reduce this manufacturing effort. This led to the development of the known one-piece collar, in which, in particular in connection with the development of inserts connected to the outer fabric by means of thermoplastic adhesives, the outer fabric, i.e. the outside and underside of the collar and the insert for the manufacture of the upper collar and the collar each consist of a single piece of textile material. Although the manufacturing effort was noticeably reduced as a result, the preferred shape of the two-piece collar, in particular the shape of the collar tips, could not be achieved. As a result, the one-piece collar has a relatively easily identifiable difference in quality with respect to the two-piece collar produced with a loose or adhesive insert, which has an unfavorable effect on pricing.

In a known one-piece collar (GB-A-767185), a fold is arranged in the insert at the point at which the fold line of the collar comes to rest. Nevertheless, the impression that it is a one-piece collar is not changed.

In a further known collar (US-A-1787113), the fold is surrounded on both sides by side gussets and raised to prevent fraying through. At the point of upheaval, six layers of outer fabric and six layers of insert material are sewn together. With this arrangement, it is not possible to achieve the wrap that is curved for a normal-fitting collar without additional means for the side folds that are also to be wrought with regard to the curved wrap line, which is reflected in a higher cost.

It is further known (GB-A-757 898) to replace a two-piece collar to be worn on both sides by a one-piece collar which is also to be worn on both sides. In order to determine the course of the break line in the desired curved shape in the latter, a slot is provided in the insert part. The impression of a two-piece collar is lost.

Furthermore, a collar insert is known (US-A-2 186 387), which has a soft, easily foldable band at the point where the fold line of the collar lies and for a simpler compared to a two-piece collar, but not the appearance of the Two-piece collar-reaching one-piece collar is used.

Furthermore, a one-piece collar is known (US-A-4 040 125) which is worn as an open and closed collar and accordingly has two slotted strips for the definition of the wrapping line. This collar also lacks the appearance of a two-piece collar.

The invention has for its object a collar of the type described above, i.e. a one-piece collar, so that it has the appearance and properties of the two-piece collar.

This object is achieved according to the invention in that the insert and the outside of the collar on one side of the fold line have a first fold directed against the upper collar and a second fold directed opposite the collar, the folds being held together by at least one seam and the course the folds are each determined by a break strip of the insert.

It is thereby achieved that for the collar according to the invention, practically no greater manufacturing outlay as with the one-piece collar and only a slight additional requirement for material for the insert and the outer fabric is required.

• Fig. 1 Eine Ansicht einer teilweise dargestellten Einlage für einen Kragen,
• Fig. 2 eine Ansicht des Oberstoffs einer teilweise dargestellten Kragen-Aussenseite,
• Fig. 3-5 eine räumliche Darstellung der Herstellung eines Kragens, wobei
• Fig. 3 den Oberstoff einer ungefalteten Kragen- Aussenseite und einer damit verklebten, teilweise versteiften Einlage,
• Fig. 4 die Bildung der ersten Falte im Oberstoff der Kragen-Aussenseite und in der Einlage,
• Fig. 5 den gewendeten Kragen nach Bildung der zweiten Falte und dem Zusammennähen mit dem Oberstoff einer Kragen-Unterseite zeigt,
• Fig. 6 eine Ansicht des Oberstoffes einer teilweise dargestellten Kragen-Unterseite,
• Fig. 7 eine räumliche Darstellung des Falten-oder Umbruchbereichs einer Einlage mit einer beschnittenen Falte,
• Fig. 8 eine Ansicht einer teilweise dargestellten Einlage mit einer Perforation im Falten- oder Umbruchbereich,
• Fig. 9 eine räumliche Darstellung des Falten-oder Umbruchbereichs des Oberstoffs einer Kragen-Aussenseite und einer damit verklebten Einlage ähnlich Fig. 5, jedoch mit einer Perforation der Einlage in einer Falte, und
• Fig. 10 eine Darstellung des Falten- oder Umbruchbereichs wie in Fig. 9, jedoch mit einer beschnittenen Falte.

The invention is shown in the drawing in some exemplary embodiments and described below. Show it:

• 1 is a view of a partially shown insert for a collar,
• 2 is a view of the outer fabric of a partially shown collar outside,
• Fig. 3-5 is a spatial representation of the manufacture of a collar, wherein
• 3 the outer fabric of an unfolded collar outside and a partially stiffened insert glued to it,
• 4 shows the formation of the first fold in the outer fabric of the outside of the collar and in the insert,
• 5 shows the turned collar after formation of the second fold and sewing together with the outer fabric of a collar underside,
• 6 is a view of the outer fabric of a partially shown collar underside,
• 7 is a spatial representation of the fold or wrapping area of an insert with a trimmed fold,
• 8 is a view of a partially shown insert with a perforation in the fold or fold area,
• FIG. 9 shows a spatial representation of the fold or wrapping area of the outer fabric of a collar outside and an insert glued to it, similar to FIG. 5, but with a perforation of the insert in a fold, and
• Fig. 10 is an illustration of the fold or wrap area as in Fig. 9, but with a trimmed fold.

For the production of the collar according to the invention, an insert 1 is used which contains differently stiffened parts and unstiffened, i.e. has soft parts. The insert 1 shown in FIG. 1 has a stiffened area 2 shown as a cross-hatched area, while the unstiffened soft areas are provided without hatching; these are seam allowances 3, 4, 5 and three interruption strips 6, 7, 8, which extend almost over the entire length of the insert 1. The strips 6, 7, 8 form places where there is a fold each when the collar is formed is coming. The strip 8 represents the break, i.e. the fold between the externally visible upper collar 9 and the inner collar 10.

The insert 1 is connected to the collar outside 15 shown in Fig. 2, e.g. glued. The contour of the insert 1, unless it coincides with that of the collar outside 15, is shown in dashed lines.

The formation of the collar, which has the appearance of a two-piece collar, is explained with reference to FIGS. 3-5. FIG. 3 shows a section through the collar outside 15, which is glued to the insert 1. With the area covered by the middle strip 6, a first fold I is formed, see FIG. 4, in which the collar outside 15 lies on the inside, and the Fold I is sewn together by a seam 16. For a better representation, the fold I - and also the folds shown in FIG. 5 - is drawn as a bent part; in reality the two parts of the collar 15 lie on top of each other and the fold I and the other folds form relatively sharp edges.

5, the part forming the collar 10 is now folded at the strip 7, so that a fold 11 is created which is sewn together with the two legs of the fold I by a seam 17.

Due to the formation of the folds I and 11 and their fixation by the two seams 16, 17, the preparations for the formation of a one-piece collar appearing as a two-piece collar are ended. The collar 15 thus shaped is now sewn together with the outer fabric of a collar underside 20 shown in FIG. 6. Since a part consisting of three layers and the two folds I and 11 is formed with the collar outside 15, the smooth collar underside 20 can have a correspondingly smaller width. The collar underside 20 is now pre-sewn with a collar 18 with a collar 18 like a normal one-piece collar and then the collar is turned over; the outside of the collar 15 and the underside of the collar 20 are then on the outside and the seam 18 is on the inside, see FIG. 5. If necessary, the edge of the upper collar 9 can be provided with a further seam 19. The seam allowances 11, 12 provided on the edges of the collar 10 are made in the manner indicated in Fig. 5 with the garment, e.g. with a shirt or blouse sewn together. Now the break can be formed by folding the upper collar 9 along the strip 8 relative to the collar 10.

The collar described has a considerably lower workload than the two-piece collar. The collar consists of only three parts and can therefore be made like a one-piece collar if the folds I and II are formed, so there is no seam crimp in the lower collar along the fold. A jump occurs due to different lengths of the strips 6, 7, 8, i.e. a shape that can otherwise only be achieved with two-piece collars with different curvatures of the upper collar and collar.

The insert 1 can be made as desired, e.g. with stiffened print or glue on an additional insert. The strips 6, 7 can also be punched. The strip 8 forming the break can optionally also be stiffened or punched.

Further simplifications in the manufacture of the collar are shown in FIGS. 7-10.

7 shows the fold or wrapping area of the insert 1; the fold I is, however, provided with a perforation 25 forming the break strip, see FIG. 8. The position of the fold I is determined by the perforation 25, see FIG. 9, and at the same time the formation of the fold or fold area between the upper collar 9 and the collar 10 relieved.

Instead of the perforation 25, a continuous cut can also form the break strip at the same location on the insert 1.

The perforation 25 can also be applied to an insert in which the stiffening of the insert is achieved by corresponding stiffening parts 26, 27. For the production of the collar according to the invention it is of no importance in which way the insert 1 is produced.

If the fold or fold area of the collar is formed after the insert 1 has been glued to the outside of the collar 15, the perforation 25 can also be used here in the insert 1 to reduce the application of the folds, see FIG. 9 . An even greater reduction in application is achieved according to FIG. 10; here the fold 1 is trimmed instead of the perforation 25 and the edge of the fold I is removed.

As already mentioned, the collar according to FIG. 5 requires a little more textile material for the formation of the fold or wrapping area both for the insert 1 and for the outer fabric of the collar outside 15 than for the simple one-piece collar.

When the folds I, II are formed, it is possible to vary the design of the insert 1 in almost any way and to provide them with stiffening parts or additional stiffening parts and with narrow or wide incisions in the region of the folds I, II. Thus, the unstiffened strips 6, 7 shown in FIG. 1, provided for the formation of the folds I, II, can be replaced by two incisions or also by a single cut. In the latter case, the folds I, II lie on the edges of this incision. The actual break line corresponding to the strip 8 can, for. B. be formed by the edge of an additional stiffening part as in Fig. 8. An additional stiffening part can also be provided only in the collar. Finally, when using special sewing machines, there is no need for special training of the insert with recesses, unstiffened areas or other sewing aids; loose inserts that cannot be glued to the outer fabric can then be processed.

Claims (4)

1. A collar for an article of clothing, such as a shirt or blouse, including a turn down collar portion (9) and a neck band portion (10) separated by a collar fold line, which collar is formed of outer material comprising a collar upperside (15) and a collar underside (20) and of an interlining (1), at least the outer material being made of one piece of textile material and an interrupting strip (8) corresponding to the collar fold line being provided in the interlining (1), characterised in that the interlining (1) and the collar upperside (15) having on one side of the collar fold line a first fold line (I) directed towards the turn down collar portion (9) and a second fold (II) oppositely directed towards the neck band portion (10), the folds (I, II) being secured by at least one seam (16, 17) and the path of the folds (I, II) being defined by an interrupting strip (6, 7) in the interlining (1).

2. A collar according to claim 1, wherein the first fold (I) is perforated or cut.

3. A collar according to claim 1, wherein the interrupting strips (6, 7) of the folds (I, II) are soft, unstiffened or punched strips in the interlining (1).

4. A collar according to claim 3, comprising an interlining (1) having an interrupting strip (8) for the definition of the path of the collar fold line, characterised in that near the interrupting strip (8) defining the collar fold line the interlining (1) has two interrupting strips (6, 7) in spaced relationship, of which the interrupting strip (6) adjacent the interrupting strip (8) defining the collar fold line defines the path of the first fold (I) and the further interrupting strip (7) defines the path of the second fold (II).

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