EP0012286A1 - Procédé d'obtention d'effets de relief dans des matières textiles en bandes initialement planes, et pour leur impression partielle - Google Patents

Procédé d'obtention d'effets de relief dans des matières textiles en bandes initialement planes, et pour leur impression partielle Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0012286A1
EP0012286A1 EP79104786A EP79104786A EP0012286A1 EP 0012286 A1 EP0012286 A1 EP 0012286A1 EP 79104786 A EP79104786 A EP 79104786A EP 79104786 A EP79104786 A EP 79104786A EP 0012286 A1 EP0012286 A1 EP 0012286A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
web
fabric
thermal printing
printing paper
pleated
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP79104786A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0012286B1 (fr
Inventor
Kurt Kleber
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE2852346A external-priority patent/DE2852346C2/de
Priority claimed from DE19792928658 external-priority patent/DE2928658A1/de
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP0012286A1 publication Critical patent/EP0012286A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0012286B1 publication Critical patent/EP0012286B1/fr
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0076—Transfer-treating
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C23/00—Making patterns or designs on fabrics
    • D06C23/04—Making patterns or designs on fabrics by shrinking, embossing, moiréing, or crêping
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T156/00—Adhesive bonding and miscellaneous chemical manufacture
    • Y10T156/10—Methods of surface bonding and/or assembly therefor
    • Y10T156/1002—Methods of surface bonding and/or assembly therefor with permanent bending or reshaping or surface deformation of self sustaining lamina
    • Y10T156/1051—Methods of surface bonding and/or assembly therefor with permanent bending or reshaping or surface deformation of self sustaining lamina by folding

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing structured patterns in fabric webs, in which the originally smooth fabric web is first subjected to a mechanical pleating treatment.
  • Such fabrics which may be referred to as "irregularly pleated", are known, as is the way in which they are produced, about which Above mentioned fold patterns, a variety of other possible arrangements of irregular pleats on fabric webs exist and are executed.
  • the use of pleated fabrics of the aforementioned type - depending on the type of pleated fabric used - results in a significantly higher consumption of fabric, which inevitably also affects the cost of the garments made from pleated fabrics.
  • the invention is based on the object of specifying a process for the production of fabric webs which are patterned in the fabric material itself, but can be processed in comparison to pleated fabrics in the production of clothes with reduced fabric consumption and without the difficulties described.
  • the method according to the invention is also intended to enable the partial printing of the fabric web, which is aligned with the fabric structure produced, with a color deviating from its basic color and / or a deviating pattern.
  • this object is achieved according to the invention in that the machine-pleated fabric web is heated and its pleated folds are deformed, whereupon the deformation of the folds is fixed by cooling the fabric web.
  • the structure created in the fabric is thus formed by the pattern of the deformed pleated folds.
  • the deformation of the pleated folds takes place differently, depending on the type of pleated blind, but in any case expediently in such a way that at least a part of the fabric material folded into the pleated folds is deformed back into the plane of the fabric web.
  • the partial printing of the fabric in such a way that the printed areas are aligned with the structural pattern takes place in a further development according to the invention in that a web of thermal printing paper is guided onto the machine-pleated fabric before it is heated and the two webs are then pressed together and simultaneously onto the one for transfer the color and / or the pattern of the thermal printing paper "are heated to the required temperature on the fabric web, and that the web of thermal printing paper is removed again after the pattern has been transferred to the fabric web.
  • the material heated during the transfer printing process is then immediately deformed to to save the heating that would otherwise be necessary for the structuring process.
  • the process according to the invention is preferably carried out for fabrics with flat pleated folds in such a way that the machine-pleated fabric web is stretched in the heated state in such a way that the pleated folds are drawn substantially smoothly, whereupon the fabric web thus tensioned is wound up into a roll and cooled in the rolled-up state. Since the fabric web is cooled in the rolled-up state with the pleats pulled apart, the folds do not pull back into their original position during the subsequent processing, but the fabric remains essentially smooth, but the ones produced during the original pleating process by the action of heat and pressure Folded edges are retained as an edge pattern, which structures the fabric in the desired manner.
  • the process can be carried out in such a way that the machine-pleated fabric web, in the heated state still resulting from the pleating treatment, i.e. is tensioned and rolled up immediately after the pleating treatment.
  • a cooled machine-pleated fabric web in the form of a roll can also be assumed, in that it is continuously unwound and heated from the roll, then stretched and rolled up again.
  • a suitably designed calender with a heatable roller can then be used for the heating and tensioning and the subsequent rolling up of the fabric web, on which a winding device with a controllable winding speed is arranged.
  • the aforementioned calender is used again, which then only has one holder device for the thermal printing paper to be applied to the top of the pleated fabric web and expediently also provided with a winding device for the thermal web paper web to be separated from the web after the printing process.
  • the method according to the invention proceedsed in such a way that the web of fabric previously freed from the top paper web, provided with standing pleats, is unrolled from the roll and a web of thermal printing paper is applied to its free upper side, that the two webs are then pressed together in such a way that the web pleats of the web are partially pressed in and with the pressed-in areas lie flat on the thermal printing paper web, thermal energy being brought to bear on the back of the thermal printing paper web facing away from the fabric web, which are applied to the color and / or the pattern of the thermal printing paper web the areas of the fabric web, and that the thermal printing paper web is then separated from the fabric web.
  • the top paper web is preferably removed from the fabric web before the heat treatment for the purpose of permanently fixing the standing pleats, and during the subsequent roll-up process of the folded fabric web, a smooth, i.e. idler paper web not lying on the flanks of the pleated standing pleats rolled into the roll of web material, the idler paper web being removed during the subsequent printing process before the thermal printing paper web is applied.
  • a rational method of operation in the continuous continuous process is achieved if the fabric web provided with standing pleats and the thermal printing paper web lying thereon are continuously guided onto the peripheral surface of a rotating heated printing roller in such a way that the rear side of the thermal printing paper web bears against the printing roller, and then the abutting webs are pressed against the thermal printing paper web by a web of felt-like material lying on the back of the fabric web provided with the under paper web and wrapping the printing roller over a predetermined angular range and running in this wrapping range with the angular velocity of the printing roller.
  • the heat-resistant felt web rotating in the printing area with the angular speed of the printing roller prevents the web from shifting relative to the thermal printing paper web, so that a clear print image is produced.
  • the above-mentioned change in the width of the printed areas can be adjusted by changing the (relatively low) tension of the felt web.
  • a material made of creped paper is expediently used as the material for the base paper web, which web is stiffer in comparison to the base paper used in pure standing pleating.
  • the creping of the paper ensures that there are no displacements between the felt web and the lower paper web, while the increased stiffness makes it possible to produce the minimal pressure of the web of material on the thermal printing paper, which is necessary for a perfect transfer printing, without any wrinkling.
  • the fabric web provided with standing pleats can be stretched in the longitudinal direction of the web before the thermal printing paper web is applied, so that the standing pleats are slightly pulled apart from the untensioned state.
  • the finished printed web then has lower, flatter waves compared to a printing process without such additional tension.
  • a similar effect can also be produced in that the pleated fabric web is immediately separated from the base paper web after printing and the removal of the thermal printing paper web and is rolled up on a roll while still warm under such longitudinal tension that the wave-like folds remaining in the web are in rolled up smooth.
  • a piece of fabric unrolled from this roll then adopts the wave shape again, but these waves have lower and wider waves compared to a web of material that was rolled up in untensioned condition after printing together with the base paper.
  • the material consumption which is otherwise significantly increased when processing pleated fabrics compared to unpleated fabrics, depending on the depth of the folds, is thus reduced. In the borderline case, i.e. with very flat waves, the material consumption of unpleated fabrics is practically achieved.
  • FIG. 1 shows a fabric web section 10 which is provided in a known manner with flat pleats, ie folds lying laterally offset laterally from one another, which in the manner according to the invention results in an essentially smooth but in the area of the folds 12 and 14 of the original flat pleats parallel fold cards 12 'or 14 1 provided fabric section 10' is further processed, as shown schematically in Figs. 2 and 3.
  • a thermal printing paper section 16 is also shown placed on the fabric web section 10, with those pointing to this thermal printing paper section 16.
  • Arrows a are intended to indicate how the color and / or the pattern of the thermal printing paper can be transferred to the web section 10 by simultaneous action of heat and pressure, only those facing the thermal printing paper 16, but not those lying in the web section 10, which are duplicated folded area of the pleats are printed.
  • the printed areas 18 of the fabric section 10 are illustrated by cross hatching.
  • Fig. 4 schematically shows a calender 20 with a large rotary driving baron steel roller 22, the circumferential surface of which can be heated to a temperature required for carrying out the method according to the invention by means of a heated oil filling.
  • a calender 20 with a large rotary driving baron steel roller 22, the circumferential surface of which can be heated to a temperature required for carrying out the method according to the invention by means of a heated oil filling.
  • On the roller 22 is an endless web 24 of heat-resistant felt, which is guided by deflecting rollers 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 and 36 so that the peripheral surface 38 of the roller 22 over an angle of more than 180 0 loops.
  • the deflection roller 26 is expediently not fixed, but slidably mounted in the calender frame (not shown), so that the pressure is changed by changing the pressure in a compressed air cylinder (also not shown) acting on the axis of rotation of the deflection roller 26. with which the felt web 24 is pressed against the peripheral surface 38 of the roller 22.
  • the flat-pleated fabric web 10 wound up into a supply roll 4o is unwound from this supply roll 40 and guided into the area of the peripheral surface 38 of the roller 22 which is wrapped by the felt web 24. Between the circumferential surface 38 and the fabric web 10, the thermal printing paper 16 unrolled from a roll 42 is also guided.
  • the driven web 22 drives the fabric web 10, the thermal printing paper web 16 and the felt web 24 at a speed corresponding to the circumferential speed of the roller 22 without it being too high Shifts between the individual lanes comes.
  • a transfer print is obtained from the thermal printing paper 16 on the fabric web on the one hand and the fabric web is heated on the other hand.
  • the exiting thermal printing paper is wound on the roll 44 while the printed and heated fabric web is wound up on a roll 46 which is deliberately driven at a higher speed than the peripheral speed of the roller 22, thereby tensioning the heated fabric web so that the pleats fold substantially be smoothed out.
  • the web of material 10 ' is thus wound on the roll 46 without folds.
  • the thermal printing paper 16 can also be omitted.
  • the method described is not limited to machine-made flat pleated blinds, but can also be used in a corresponding manner for webs of fabric provided with so-called standing pleated blinds or irregularly pleated, with an interesting effect particularly in the case of the last-mentioned irregularly pleated fabrics. if they are still printed in the manner described in the trans fer printing process before pulling out the pleats.
  • the method according to the invention can also be carried out in the manner described below. Since the mechanical production of pleated blind and the pleating machines used for this purpose are known, it is sufficient to briefly point out some of the essentials that are essential for the subsequent shaping and printing process.
  • a bottom paper web 112 and a top paper web 114 are placed on the fabric web 110 to be pleated and later to be deformed and printed, in the manner schematically illustrated in FIG. 5, and the then three-layer web 112, 110, 114 is then fed into the pleating machine shown in FIG 6 shown folded form with standing folds.
  • the folds are fixed in a warming cabinet or autoclave, for which the fold of fabric is rolled up beforehand.
  • the top paper 114 is not rolled in, but removed, and instead a smooth (not shown) tracking paper is rolled in to separate the folded layers. This role is then placed upright in the heating or steaming cabinet and held there for the required duration of treatment. After the roll removed again from the heating cabinet has cooled, the standing folds are fixed in the form shown in FIG. 7.
  • the fabric web 110 is unrolled again together with the bottom paper web 112, the idling paper which is then no longer required being removed again.
  • the thermal printing paper 116 (FIG. 8) is applied to the free upper side of the fabric web 110.
  • the underside of the fabric web covered with underpaper 112 rests on a web 118 made of a heat-resistant felt-like material and on the back of the thermal printing paper 116 is exerted such pressure by means of a heated surface 120, which is only schematically indicated in FIG. 8, that the folds of the composite web 110 , 112 deform in the manner illustrated in FIG. 8. It can be seen that strip-shaped areas 122 then lie flat on the thermal printing paper 116 on both sides of the original front edges of the standing folds.
  • the printing pattern of the thermal printing paper is transferred to the areas 122 by the heat transferred from the area 120, for example formed by the peripheral surface of a heated printing roller, to the thermal printing paper.
  • the wave-pleated fabric webs 110 shown schematically in FIGS. 9 and 10 with narrower and deeper or wider and lower corrugated pleated folds are produced.
  • the printed areas 122 extend, as can be seen from these drawing figures, over the rounded top wave crests, while the respective wave bottom lying between them is unprinted.
  • the printed, wave-pleated fabric panels produced in this way represent a fashionably extraordinarily attractive starting product for the production of dresses, skirts, blouses and the like. represents.
  • FIG. 11 schematically illustrates a calender 130 for carrying out the method described above.
  • This calender 130 essentially consists of a large, rotatable steel pressure roller 132, the peripheral surface of which serves as the printing surface 120 is brought to the required temperature by a heated oil filling.
  • the felt web 118 is designed as an endless web which is guided by deflecting rollers 134, 136, 138, 140, 142 and 144 in such a way that it wraps around the peripheral surface 120 of the pressure roller 132 over an angle of more than 180 °.
  • the deflection roller 134 is Expediently not ortsfe ' st, but slidably mounted in the (not shown) printing press frame, so that by changing the pressure in a (also not shown) acting on the axis of rotation of the deflection roller 134 compressed air cylinder, the tension with which the felt web 118' can be changed the peripheral surface 120 of the pressure roller 132 is pressed.
  • the pleated composite web 110, 112 composed of the fabric web 110 and the lower paper web 112 is unrolled from the supply roll 146 and guided into the area of the peripheral surface 120 of the pressure roller 132 wrapped by the felt web 118.
  • the thermal printing paper 116 unrolled from the roll 148 is also guided between the peripheral surface 120 and the web 110, 112. Since the felt web 118 rotates in the encircling area at the same angular speed as the printing roller 132, there is no relative displacement of the thermal printing paper relative to the web 110, 112 in the printing area, so that a clear transfer print is obtained.
  • the emerging thermal printing paper 116 is wound onto the roll 150, while the printed web 110, 112 is wound onto the roll 152.
  • the now printed fabric web cools down on the path lying between the exit from the printing nip and the roll 152, this cooling additionally being able to be promoted by inflating cooling air.
  • the base paper Before rolling onto roll 152, the base paper can still be removed, or it can also be rolled up.
  • the composite web 110, 112 composed of the fabric web 110 and the lower paper web 112 is shown in the drawing as a flat web for reasons of simplification of the illustration. In fact, at the entrance it is the shape shown in FIG. 7 with the sharp-jagged standing pleats, while after the exit from the pressure nip it has the corrugated shape shown in FIGS. 9 and 10, respectively.
  • the roller 146 can be provided with an adjustable brense, so that the web 110, 112 must be pulled off the roller 146 against the braking force, with the standing pleats pulling apart. Winding up on roll 152 under tension such that the wave-pleated printed fabric web is wound smoothly on the roll itself also promotes the formation of wider, shallower wave-pleats.
  • Such webs of fabric with flatter waves have the advantage of lower fabric consumption compared to the fabrics provided with a deeper "wave pleated blind", which in the limit case, i.e. in the case of very flat waves, practically approximates consumption when processing unpleated fabrics.
  • the fashionable effect achieved in garments made of fabrics with deeper corrugations is that when the wearer moves by stretching or relaxing individual sections of fabric, the unprinted sections of fabric appear more or less strongly in the underside of the wave, compared to flatter corrugated fabrics.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
EP79104786A 1978-12-04 1979-11-30 Procédé d'obtention d'effets de relief dans des matières textiles en bandes initialement planes, et pour leur impression partielle Expired EP0012286B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE2852346A DE2852346C2 (de) 1978-12-04 1978-12-04 Verfahren zur Herstellung bedruckter plissierter Stoffbahnen
DE2852346 1978-12-04
DE19792928658 DE2928658A1 (de) 1979-07-16 1979-07-16 Verfahren zur herstellung von stoffbahnen mit einem muster aus dauerfixierten faltenkanten
DE2928658 1979-07-16

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0012286A1 true EP0012286A1 (fr) 1980-06-25
EP0012286B1 EP0012286B1 (fr) 1982-02-17

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EP79104786A Expired EP0012286B1 (fr) 1978-12-04 1979-11-30 Procédé d'obtention d'effets de relief dans des matières textiles en bandes initialement planes, et pour leur impression partielle

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US (1) US4303459A (fr)
EP (1) EP0012286B1 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3118380A1 (de) * 1981-05-09 1982-11-25 Kurt 6842 Bürstadt Kleber "verfahren zur herstellung von dauerfixierten faltenmustern in stoffzuschnitten"
EP0560492A2 (fr) * 1992-03-10 1993-09-15 Lanscot-Arlen Fabrics, Inc. Etoffe à faux plis

Families Citing this family (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4589884A (en) * 1983-03-18 1986-05-20 Milliken Research Corporation Process for heat treating textile substrates to give colored pattern
US4680032A (en) * 1983-03-18 1987-07-14 Milliken Research Corporation Process for heat treating textile substrates to give a colored pattern
KR100471619B1 (ko) * 2003-02-21 2005-03-10 문춘호 주름원단의 제조방법과 이에 의해 제조한 주름원단
KR100962955B1 (ko) 2010-02-05 2010-06-09 이상원 직물인쇄기용 주름형성장치
US9409414B2 (en) 2013-04-04 2016-08-09 Nike, Inc. Vacuum cylinder with recessed portions for holding articles for printing
US9321257B2 (en) 2013-04-04 2016-04-26 Nike, Inc. Cylinder with recessed portions for holding tubular articles for printing
US10156039B2 (en) * 2016-02-09 2018-12-18 Shelley Komarov Garments with two-way pleated elements and methods for manufacturing thereof
GB2566250A (en) * 2017-06-20 2019-03-13 Petit Pli Ltd Garment pleating

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2910884A1 (de) * 1978-03-22 1979-10-04 Roldwest Ltd Verfahren zum bedrucken und plissieren eines stoffes o.dgl.

Family Cites Families (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US228309A (en) * 1880-06-01 brosemann
US235067A (en) * 1880-12-07 brown
US1433025A (en) * 1921-04-21 1922-10-24 Said Tasker Fluting machine
US2851206A (en) * 1954-08-03 1958-09-09 Bancroft & Sons Co J Random pleating of fabric
US3193844A (en) * 1963-11-13 1965-07-13 Jessie W Eng Pleated fabric construction
DE2238854B2 (de) * 1972-08-07 1979-09-20 Stiebel Eltron Gmbh & Co Kg, 3450 Holzminden Elektrisch beheizte Bügelwange
FR2417397A1 (fr) * 1978-02-20 1979-09-14 Kleber Kurt Procede de fabrication de panneaux d'etoffe imprimes sur les aretes des plis

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2910884A1 (de) * 1978-03-22 1979-10-04 Roldwest Ltd Verfahren zum bedrucken und plissieren eines stoffes o.dgl.

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3118380A1 (de) * 1981-05-09 1982-11-25 Kurt 6842 Bürstadt Kleber "verfahren zur herstellung von dauerfixierten faltenmustern in stoffzuschnitten"
US5679438A (en) * 1990-04-23 1997-10-21 Lanscot-Arlen Fabrics, Inc. Fabrics with a new wrinkle and a stitch
EP0560492A2 (fr) * 1992-03-10 1993-09-15 Lanscot-Arlen Fabrics, Inc. Etoffe à faux plis
EP0560492A3 (en) * 1992-03-10 1995-03-01 Lanscot Arlen Fabrics Inc Fabrics with a new wrinkle

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0012286B1 (fr) 1982-02-17
US4303459A (en) 1981-12-01

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