CN113116755A - Skin care composition for promoting penetration and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents
Skin care composition for promoting penetration and preparation method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN113116755A CN113116755A CN202110586209.0A CN202110586209A CN113116755A CN 113116755 A CN113116755 A CN 113116755A CN 202110586209 A CN202110586209 A CN 202110586209A CN 113116755 A CN113116755 A CN 113116755A
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- 239000002504 physiological saline solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000004040 pyrrolidinones Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940031439 squalene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N squalene Natural products CC(=CCCC(=CCCC(=CCCC=C(/C)CCC=C(/C)CC=C(C)C)C)C)C TUHBEKDERLKLEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000037072 sun protection Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
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Abstract
The application discloses a penetration-promoting skin care composition, which comprises the following components in parts by weight: 40-90 parts of water-soluble components, 0.1-15 parts of penetration enhancer, 0.1-3 parts of emulsifier and 0.1-40 parts of oil-soluble components; the penetration enhancer comprises peony seed oil, and the skin care composition is a micron-sized dispersion with the average particle size of 0.01-1 mu m at 25 ℃. According to the permeation-promoting skin care composition, the peony seed oil is used as a permeation-promoting agent, so that on one hand, the peony seed oil has a very good skin care effect and is mutually synergistic with functional components, the skin care effect of cosmetics is improved, and the skin burden is reduced; on the other hand, the peony seed oil can promote the permeation of other functional components, remarkably improve the permeation capability of the functional components, enable the functional raw materials to reach target positions, and simultaneously facilitate the improvement of the effective utilization rate of functional substances, thereby achieving the effects of comprehensively and effectively whitening, relieving, delaying senescence and the like.
Description
Technical Field
The application belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a penetration-promoting skin care composition and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
The skin care products have different action mechanisms on skin layers according to different efficacies. Wherein, the moisturizing is mainly acted on the horny layer of the skin, the whitening is mainly acted on the epidermal layer, and the anti-aging is mainly acted on the epidermal layer and the dermal layer of the skin. However, although some functional substances are added to the skin care product, the added functional substances cannot reach the main skin action part due to the defects of large molecular weight, poor permeability and the like, so that the skin care efficiency is reduced.
Therefore, in the prior art, some penetration enhancers are often added into skin care products to improve the permeability of various components in the skin care products, and common penetration enhancers include ethanol, azone, dimethyl sulfoxide, pyrrolidone derivatives and the like, but the penetration enhancers have great damage to the skin. The prior art does not provide a penetration enhancer which is mild, high in safety and skin-care, and can improve the effective utilization rate of cosmetics.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the above problems, the present application aims to provide a penetration-promoting skin care composition, which comprises the following components by weight:
40-90 parts of water-soluble components, 0.1-15 parts of penetration enhancer, 0.1-3 parts of emulsifier and 0.1-40 parts of oil-soluble components;
the penetration enhancer comprises peony seed oil;
the skin care composition is a micron-sized dispersion with a particle size of 0.01-1 μm at 25 ℃.
The peony seed oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acid with the content of more than 92%, wherein the alpha-linolenic acid accounts for more than 38%, and the peony seed oil contains various nutrient components such as abundant vitamin E, vitamin A, phytosterol, squalene, paeoniflorin, paeonol, potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron and zinc, has a very good conditioning effect on skin, and has the effects of moisturizing, relieving, bacteriostasis, antioxidation, whitening, freckle removal, anti-aging, sun protection and the like. In the skin care composition provided by the application, the peony seed oil has the effect, and can also have a good permeation promoting effect on other components such as aqueous effect components, vegetable oil and the like, and the permeation promoting effect is further improved after the peony seed oil is matched with a specific preparation method and particle size distribution.
Further, the mass portion of the peony seed oil is 0.5-12.
Preferably, the penetration enhancer comprises 1-10 parts of peony seed oil; more preferably, 5-10 parts of peony seed oil is included.
Further, the water-soluble ingredients comprise water-based efficacy components, and the water-based efficacy components are selected from one or more of VC ethyl ether, peony root extract, ginseng root extract, smilax china root extract, tremella polysaccharide, panthenol, nicotinamide and acetyl hexapeptide-8.
Further, the water-soluble ingredients include humectants, preservatives, and thickeners;
the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate and arginine;
the preservative is selected from one or two of p-hydroxyacetophenone and hexanediol;
the thickening agent is one or two of carbomer and xanthan gum.
Further, the oil-soluble component comprises vegetable oil selected from one or more of coconut oil, oat kernel oil, rice bran oil, argan, rose hip oil, jojoba oil, prinsepia utilis royle oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, camellia seed oil, sweet almond seed oil, spanish sage oil, elderberry oil, olive oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, evening primrose oil and shea butter.
Further, the oil-soluble ingredients include antioxidants and emollients;
the antioxidant is vitamin E;
the emollient is one or more selected from caprylic/capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, isohexadecane, squalane, and ceramide-3.
Further, the emulsifier is selected from one or more of polyglycerol-10 stearate, sucrose stearate and hydrogenated lecithin.
Further, the skin care composition comprises the following components in parts by weight:
40-70 parts of water;
penetration enhancer: 0.1-15 parts of peony seed oil;
aqueous functional components: 0.1-3 parts of VC ethyl ether, 0-2 parts of peony root extract, 0-2 parts of ginseng root extract, 0-2 parts of smilax china root extract, 0-2 parts of panthenol, 0-5 parts of nicotinamide and-80-0.1 part of acetyl hexapeptide;
vegetable oil: 0.1-5 parts of oat kernel oil, 0-5 parts of jojoba oil, 0-5 parts of prinsepia utilis royle oil, 0-5 parts of sea-buckthorn seed oil, 0-5 parts of camellia seed oil, 0-5 parts of sweet almond seed oil, 0-5 parts of olive oil, 0-10 parts of linseed oil, 0-10 parts of rice bran oil, 0-10 parts of evening primrose oil and 0-10 parts of shea butter;
emulsifier: 0-3 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate and 0.1-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin;
and (3) an emollient: 0-5 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 0-5 parts of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0-5 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 0-5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 0-5 parts of squalane and-30-1 parts of ceramide;
antioxidant: 0-10 parts of vitamin E;
thickening agent: 0-1 part of carbomer and 0-1 part of xanthan gum;
preservative: 0-1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0-1 part of hexanediol;
humectant: 0-1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0-1 part of arginine, 1-5 parts of glycerol and 1-5 parts of butanediol.
In another aspect, the present application also provides the use of the above penetration enhancing skin care composition in the preparation of a skin repair cosmetic.
Preferably, the cosmetic is in the form of, but not limited to, aqueous solution, emulsion, cream, gel, essence, etc.
In another aspect, the present application also provides a method for preparing the penetration enhancing skin care composition, which comprises:
the method comprises the following steps: mixing water soluble components at 60-80 deg.C, and stirring to obtain mixture A;
step two: mixing oil soluble component and emulsifier at 60-80 deg.C, and stirring to obtain mixture B;
step three: slowly adding the mixture A into the mixture B under the conditions that the heating temperature is 60-80 ℃ and the stirring speed is 500-10000 rpm to obtain a mixture C, and carrying out high-speed shearing emulsification on the mixture C under the conditions of 7000-10000rpm for 3-10min to prepare a micron-sized dispersion, namely obtaining the skin care composition.
Benefits that can be produced by the present application include, but are not limited to:
according to the permeation-promoting skin care composition, the adopted component raw materials are very safe and mild skin care raw materials, and the peony seed oil is adopted as the permeation-promoting agent, so that on one hand, the peony seed oil has a very good skin care effect and is mutually synergistic with functional components, the skin care effect of the cosmetic is improved, and the skin burden is reduced; on the other hand, the peony seed oil can promote the permeation of other functional components, remarkably improve the permeation capability of the functional components, enable the functional raw materials to reach target positions, and simultaneously facilitate the improvement of the effective utilization rate of functional substances, thereby achieving the effects of comprehensively and effectively whitening, relieving, delaying senescence and the like. Meanwhile, the skin care composition provided by the application is simple to use, smooth in skin feel, safe, free of irritation, simple and effective in preparation process, free of pollution to the environment and good in application prospect.
Drawings
The accompanying drawings, which are included to provide a further understanding of the application and are incorporated in and constitute a part of this application, illustrate embodiment(s) of the application and together with the description serve to explain the application and not to limit the application. In the drawings:
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the results of testing the skin care composition obtained in example 1 in the chick embryo allantoic membrane test.
Detailed Description
In order to more clearly explain the overall concept of the present application, the following detailed description is given by way of example. It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the following examples are illustrative of the invention only and should not be taken as limiting the scope of the invention.
Unless otherwise specified, the raw materials for the respective components in the following examples are commercially available.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a skin care composition, which comprises the following components in parts by weight:
55 parts of water;
penetration enhancer: 5 parts of peony seed oil;
aqueous functional components: 1 part of VC ethyl ether, 2 parts of peony root extract, 2 parts of ginseng root extract, 2 parts of smilax glaber root extract, 1 part of panthenol, 5 parts of nicotinamide and 80.1 parts of acetyl hexapeptide;
vegetable oil: 1 part of oat kernel oil, 1 part of jojoba oil, 1 part of prinsepia utilis royle oil, 1 part of sea-buckthorn seed oil, 1 part of camellia seed oil, 1 part of rice bran oil, 1 part of evening primrose oil and 2 parts of shea butter;
emulsifier: 2 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate and 1 part of hydrogenated lecithin;
and (3) an emollient: 1 part of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1 part of ethylhexyl palmitate, 1 part of isononyl isononanoate, 1 part of polydimethylsiloxane, 1 part of squalane and 30.1 parts of ceramide;
antioxidant: 0.1 part of vitamin E;
thickening agent: carbomer 0.1 part and xanthan gum 0.1 part;
preservative: 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.5 part of hexanediol;
humectant: 0.1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.1 part of arginine, 4 parts of glycerol and 5 parts of butanediol.
The preparation method of the skin care composition comprises the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps: weighing water, glycerol, butanediol, VC ethyl ether, a peony root extract, a ginseng root extract, a smilax glaber root extract, panthenol, nicotinamide, acetyl hexapeptide-8, carbomer, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, hexanediol, sodium hyaluronate and arginine respectively according to the mass parts, mixing, heating to 70 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixture A;
step two: respectively weighing caprylic/capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, squalane, oat kernel oil, jojoba oil, prinsepia utilis royle oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, camellia seed oil, sweet almond seed oil, olive oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, evening primrose oil, shea butter, ceramide-3, vitamin E, polyglycerol-10 stearate, hydrogenated lecithin and peony seed oil according to the mass parts, mixing, heating to 70 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain a mixture B;
step three: slowly adding the mixture A obtained in the step one into the mixture B obtained in the step two under the conditions that the heating temperature is 80 ℃ and the stirring speed is 600rpm to obtain a mixture C, and carrying out high-speed shearing emulsification on the mixture C under the condition of 10000rpm for 3min to prepare micron-sized dispersion, namely the skin care composition.
The skin care composition prepared by the method has a particle size of 0.01-1 micrometer measured at 25 deg.C.
Examples 2 to 5
Examples 2-5 provided skin care composition components and methods similar to example 1, except that the added parts by mass of the peony seed oil were different, wherein the added parts by mass of the peony seed oil in examples 2-5 were 1 part, 3 parts, 7 parts and 10 parts, respectively.
Example 6
Example 6 provides a skin care composition having about the same component content and method of manufacture as example 1 except that the composition is prepared using blend C as the final product, i.e., not made into a micro-sized dispersion.
Comparative example 1
Comparative example 1 is about the same as the skin care composition provided in example 1 and the method of preparing the same, except that 5 parts of peony seed oil was removed without the addition of a penetration enhancer.
Comparative example 2
Comparative example 2 is the same as the skin care composition provided in example 1 and the method of making the same, except that 5 parts of peony seed oil is removed and 6 parts of hydrogenated lecithin is used, i.e., 5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin is used instead of 5 parts of peony seed oil.
Skin care compositions prepared in the examples and comparative examples above were tested for penetration enhancement using Franz vertical diffusion cells as follows:
(1) adding a receiving solution into a receiving pool: adding 7.0mL of receiving solution (normal saline) into a receiving pool by using a pipette, and placing a matched magnetic stirrer into the receiving pool;
(2) fixing the skin between a supply chamber and a receiving chamber of a Franz diffusion cell, wherein the stratum corneum of the skin faces the supply chamber, and the side of the dermis faces the receiving cell; after the skin is fixed, 1mL of physiological saline is added into the sampling tube by a pipette according to the liquid height of the sampling tube (specifically, the aim is to exhaust air), so that the dermal layer of the skin is in close contact with the receiving liquid, and the accurate volume of the receiving liquid is recorded;
(3) fixing the Franz diffusion cell in a constant temperature water bath box, starting an electromagnetic stirrer to stir at the speed of 300rpm/min, keeping the constant temperature water bath at 36.5 ℃, and ensuring that a water bath interlayer has no bubbles;
(4) after the water bath temperature was constant, the sample was added to the skin surface in the supply chamber with an effective permeation area S of about 2.2cm2Accurately sucking skin care product samples with the fixed volume of 300 mu l by using a positive pressure pipettor, uniformly coating the skin care product samples on the surface of the skin in a supply chamber, wherein small chambers of diffusion cells corresponding to different samples are distributed in a cross way; each time point for each sample was repeated with 3 independent pigskin patches as 3 replicates;
(5) taking down the pigskin at 8h, sampling in a receiving pool by using a needle tube, and calculating the percent of the penetration amount of 8h by adopting the following calculation formula:
Q=Pt/Po×100%
in the formula, PtFor the content of sample in the receiving cell, PoIs the theoretical amount of sample in the feed cell.
The results of the percent penetration of each skin care composition for 8 hours measured using the above method are shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
Examples of the invention | Percent penetration of 8h |
Example 1 | 22.80% |
Example 2 | 15.56% |
Example 3 | 17.35% |
Example 4 | 24.09% |
Example 5 | 25.16% |
Example 6 | 13.21% |
Comparative example 1 | 10.02% |
Comparative example 2 | 10.98% |
As can be seen from the data in table 1, the effect of increasing the amount of the hydrogenated lecithin in comparative example 2 to increase the permeation was not ideal, compared to comparative example 1 in which no permeation enhancer was used, but the skin care compositions provided in examples 1 to 5 had significantly increased permeation amounts. And comparing the results of examples 1 and 6, it can be seen that the micron-sized dispersion prepared by high shear is more beneficial to assist the peony seed oil in enhancing the penetration-promoting ability.
Efficacy experiments:
and (3) testing the irritation of the product:
using example 1 as an example, the product safety of the skin care composition was tested using the chick embryo allantoic membrane test, and the results are shown in fig. 1. As can be seen from the results shown in FIG. 1, the chick allantoic membranes using the skin care composition provided in example 1 showed no hemolysis at 0s, 150s, and 300s, indicating that the sample was non-irritating.
Taking example 1 as an example, the skin care composition was tested for safety using a patch test and the results are shown in table 2.
TABLE 2
As can be seen from the results shown in table 2, 30 persons tested using the skin care composition provided in example 1 showed no abnormal reaction, indicating that the skin care composition has high safety.
Skin barrier repair effect test:
clinical tests of skin barrier repair effects were performed for example 1 and comparative example 1, respectively, wherein the test methods were as follows:
according to the principle of volunteers, 20-55 years old volunteers are selected to be 60 persons in total, and are divided into two groups in parallel, wherein 30 persons in each group are tested, and the groups are respectively a comparative example group and an example group. After each day of cleansing, the subjects used the corresponding test products once in the morning and once in the evening according to the daily skin care procedure, wherein the skin care product provided in comparative example 1 was used in the comparative example group and the skin care product provided in example 1 was used in the example group.
Wherein, a skin surface moisture profile tester (CM825, CK) is adopted to collect the value of the skin moisture content (MMV) of the subject; collecting a skin dehydration TEWL (moisture retention) value of a subject by adopting a moisture loss tester (TM300, CK); the skin gloss of the test was tested using a Glossimeter GL 200; testing the erythema index EI by using Mexameter MX 18; testing the skin elasticity R2 by using a Cutomer; and testing the content of the collagen by using an intradermal spectrophotometer.
Before testing, a subject cleans the face with clear water, sits still for 40min in a constant temperature and humidity environment (the temperature is 22 +/-2 ℃, and the relative humidity is 50% +/-10% RH), and then tests with the instrument to obtain initial data. After 28 days of continuous use of the product, the subject was again allowed to cleanse their face with clear water, sat still in a constant temperature and humidity environment (temperature 22 ℃. + -. 2 ℃ C., relative humidity 50%. + -. 10% RH) for 40min, and the above-mentioned instrument was used for testing to obtain test data, and the difference between the test data and the initial data was compared, and the results are shown in Table 3.
TABLE 3
Comparative example 1 | Example 1 | |
Stratum corneum moisture content (MMV) | +15.15 | +50.53 |
Transdermal water loss TEWL | -15.20 | -21.15 |
Degree of gloss | +7.65 | +16.29 |
Erythema index EI | -7.08 | -20.45 |
Skin elasticity R2 | +5.33 | +11.19 |
Increasing collagen content | +0.43 | +1.63 |
As can be seen from the results in table 3, the efficacy effect of example 1 is significantly better than that of comparative example 1 when only 5 parts of peony seed oil is added, which indicates that the skin care composition provided in example 1 effectively improves the effective utilization rate of the skin care product and achieves very good efficacy.
Meanwhile, after the skin care composition provided by the application is quarantined by a health quarantine department, the microorganism indexes are as follows:
the total number of bacterial colonies is determined by referring to the 2015 edition of technical Specification for cosmetic safety, and is not detected;
coliform bacteria are determined according to 2015 edition of technical Specification for cosmetic safety, and are not detected;
pathogenic bacteria are detected according to the 2015 edition of technical standards for safety of cosmetics, and are not detected;
the above results fully demonstrate the safety of the present invention.
The above description is only an example of the present application and is not intended to limit the present application. Various modifications and changes may occur to those skilled in the art. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present application should be included in the scope of the claims of the present application.
Claims (10)
1. The penetration-promoting skin care composition is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:
40-90 parts of water-soluble components, 0.1-15 parts of penetration enhancer, 0.1-3 parts of emulsifier and 0.1-40 parts of oil-soluble components;
the penetration enhancer comprises peony seed oil;
the skin care composition is a micron-sized dispersion with a particle size of 0.01-1 μm at 25 ℃.
2. The penetration-enhancing skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the peony seed oil is 0.5-12 parts by weight.
3. The penetration enhancing skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the water soluble ingredients comprise an aqueous efficacy component selected from one or more of VC ethyl ether, peony root extract, ginseng root extract, tremella polysaccharide, smilax glauca root extract, panthenol, niacinamide, acetyl hexapeptide-8.
4. The penetration-enhancing skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the water-soluble ingredients comprise a humectant, a preservative, and a thickener;
the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate and arginine;
the preservative is selected from one or two of p-hydroxyacetophenone and hexanediol;
the thickening agent is one or two of carbomer and xanthan gum.
5. The penetration enhancing skin care composition of claim 1, wherein said oil soluble ingredients comprise a vegetable oil selected from one or more of coconut oil, oat kernel oil, rice bran oil, argan oil, rose hip oil, jojoba oil, prinsepia utilis royle oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, camellia seed oil, sweet almond seed oil, spanish sage oil, elderberry oil, olive oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, evening primrose oil, shea butter.
6. The penetration enhancing skin care composition of claim 1, wherein the oil soluble ingredients comprise antioxidants and emollients;
the antioxidant is vitamin E;
the emollient is one or more selected from caprylic/capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, polydimethylsiloxane, isohexadecane, squalane, and ceramide-3.
7. The penetration-enhancing skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifier is selected from one or more of polyglyceryl-10 stearate, sucrose stearate, and hydrogenated lecithin.
8. The penetration-enhancing skin care composition according to claim 1, wherein the skin care composition comprises, in parts by weight:
40-70 parts of water;
penetration enhancer: 0.1-15 parts of peony seed oil;
aqueous functional components: 0.1-3 parts of VC ethyl ether, 0-2 parts of peony root extract, 0-2 parts of ginseng root extract, 0-2 parts of smilax china root extract, 0-2 parts of panthenol, 0-5 parts of nicotinamide and-80-0.1 part of acetyl hexapeptide;
vegetable oil: 0.1-5 parts of oat kernel oil, 0-5 parts of jojoba oil, 0-5 parts of prinsepia utilis royle oil, 0-5 parts of sea-buckthorn seed oil, 0-5 parts of camellia seed oil, 0-5 parts of sweet almond seed oil, 0-5 parts of olive oil, 0-10 parts of linseed oil, 0-10 parts of rice bran oil, 0-10 parts of evening primrose oil and 0-10 parts of shea butter;
emulsifier: 0-3 parts of polyglycerol-10 stearate and 0.1-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin;
and (3) an emollient: 0-5 parts of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 0-5 parts of ethylhexyl palmitate, 0-5 parts of isononyl isononanoate, 0-5 parts of polydimethylsiloxane, 0-5 parts of squalane and-30-1 parts of ceramide;
antioxidant: 0-10 parts of vitamin E;
thickening agent: 0-1 part of carbomer and 0-1 part of xanthan gum;
preservative: 0-1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0-1 part of hexanediol;
humectant: 0-1 part of sodium hyaluronate, 0-1 part of arginine, 1-5 parts of glycerol and 1-5 parts of butanediol.
9. Use of a penetration enhancing skin care composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in the preparation of a skin repair cosmetic.
10. A method of preparing a penetration enhancing skin care composition according to any of claims 1-8 comprising:
the method comprises the following steps: mixing water soluble components at 60-80 deg.C, and stirring to obtain mixture A;
step two: mixing oil soluble component and emulsifier at 60-80 deg.C, and stirring to obtain mixture B;
step three: slowly adding the mixture A into the mixture B under the conditions that the heating temperature is 60-80 ℃ and the stirring speed is 500-10000 rpm to obtain a mixture C, and carrying out high-speed shearing emulsification on the mixture C under the conditions of 7000-10000rpm for 3-10min to prepare a micron-sized dispersion, namely obtaining the skin care composition.
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