CN110731923A

CN110731923A - Enhanced moisturizing cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: CN110731923A
Application number: CN201910694214.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 王莎莎; 施天一
Original assignee: Zhejiang Yangshengtang Institute of Natural Medication Co Ltd
Current assignee: Zhejiang Yangshengtang Institute of Natural Medication Co Ltd
Priority date: 2019-07-30
Filing date: 2019-07-30
Publication date: 2020-01-31
Anticipated expiration: 2039-07-30
Also published as: WO2021017913A1; CN110731923B

Abstract

The present invention relates to enhanced moisturizing cosmetic compositions comprising (A) concentrated birch sap at a concentration factor of about 1.05-8 times, preferably about 1.1-4 times, more preferably about 1.2-2 times, (B) or more selected from sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, ceramide, betaine, and polyol.

Description

Enhanced moisturizing cosmetic compositions

Technical Field

Background

The moisture retention ability of the skin and the glossiness, aging degree and occurrence of skin diseases all have definite correlations.

The current accepted moisturizing means are mainly divided into two aspects, , namely enhancing the control of moisture escape by enhancing the epidermal barrier function and water-locking capacity of the skin, and increasing the water supply capacity of the epidermal cells in vivo by activating the expression of aquaporins in the dermis layer of the skin.

At present, the most common moisturizing component on the market is sodium hyaluronate, which can form a breathable water retention film on the surface of skin, can capture water molecules in air and can maintain the moisture content of the surface layer of the skin, but when the moisture content in the air is low, the requirement of consumers for moisturizing products is difficult to meet by adding the sodium hyaluronate singly , therefore, the invention aims to develop moisturizing cosmetic compositions with multiple moisturizing effects

Birch is a deciduous tree of the betulinaceae family, and currently, there are about 100 varieties worldwide, mainly distributed in the northern temperate zone and the cold temperate zone. Wherein, there are about 29 varieties in China, and the varieties are mainly distributed in the northeast, northwest and southwest. Birch trees are mostly grown in remote mountainous areas with less human intervention and no industrial pollution. Birch sap (also called birch sap) is fresh sap obtained by cutting bark or drilling trunk of birch, and is colorless or yellowish, has no precipitate or impurity, and has light birch fragrance. The birch juice contains abundant saccharide, amino acids, vitamins, biotin, cytokinin, trace mineral elements, aromatic oil, betulin, saponin, etc., and has good skin care effects of keeping moisture, resisting inflammation, removing wrinkle, whitening, etc.

Disclosure of Invention

the present invention relates to the use of (a) concentrated birch juice in combination with (B) or more selected from the group consisting of sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, ceramide, betaine, and polyol, wherein the concentration factor of the concentrated birch juice is about 1.05-8 times, preferably about 1.1-4 times, more preferably about 1.2-2 times, in an enhanced moisturizing cosmetic composition.

In another aspect, the present invention relates to enhanced moisturizing cosmetic compositions comprising (a) concentrated birch sap at a concentration of about 1.05-8 times, preferably about 1.1-4 times, more preferably about 1.2-2 times, and (B) or more selected from sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, ceramide, betaine, and a polyol.

The enhanced moisturizing cosmetic composition can promote the expression of related genes or proteins such as cutin transglutaminase TGM1 related to an epidermal barrier, epidermal tight junction protein, silk fibroin FLG related to the water-holding capacity of skin, aquaporin AQP3 related to the water-absorbing capacity of skin, and the like, promote the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal and dermal cells, reduce the loss of percutaneous water, and has relatively comprehensive skin moisturizing effect.

The moisturizing cosmetic composition does not comprise any added water, but does not exclude moisture inherently comprised in the components.

In a preferred embodiment, the moisturizing cosmetic composition does not contain a chelating agent such as EDTA salt, sodium polyphosphate, sodium metaphosphate, gluconic acid, or the like.

Birch juices contemplated in the present invention are derived from Betula genus of betulinaceae family, and may be derived from four varieties of white birch (Betula alba), Betula luminifera (Betula pubescens), Betula Pendula (Betula Pendula) and Betula asiatica (Betula platyphylla). The birch juice is colorless, transparent, precipitate-free and impurity-free juice which is obtained by manually drilling and collecting at the base of a trunk of the birch between thawing and early spring leaf emergence and has birch faint scent and rich nutrition. The birch juice is commercially available and used as is, for example, from greater Khingan than wild berry development, Inc.

The concentrated birch sap of component (a) used in the present invention is obtained by concentrating the above-mentioned commercially available products. Concentration methods are known in the art, such as heat concentration, low temperature vacuum concentration, membrane concentration, and the like. In the present invention, it is preferable to perform concentration by a low temperature freeze concentration or membrane concentration process, for example, a commercially available birch juice stock solution is introduced into a low temperature drying apparatus, cooled to-40 ℃ to-70 ℃, and vacuum-concentrated to 0.1 to 30Pa at a low temperature to obtain concentrated birch juice with a concentration factor of 1.05 to 8.

The present inventors found that concentrated birch sap at a concentration factor of 1.05-8 times, preferably 1.1-4 times, especially 1.2-2 times, significantly improves the moisturizing efficacy of cosmetic compositions comprising component (B) sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, ceramide, betaine and/or polyol, compared to the unconcentrated birch sap stock solution. This indicates that the combination of concentrated birch juice with sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, ceramide, betaine, and/or polyol produces a synergistic or synergistic effect.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have also found that the accelerating effect of the concentrated birch sap on the moisturizing efficacy of component (B) is not simply linear with respect to its degree of concentration, but rather shows a tendency to increase first and then decrease as the concentration factor increases. Therefore, it is critical to control the concentration of the birch sap, and in the present invention, the concentration of the birch sap is controlled to be about 1.05 to 8 times, preferably about 1.1 to 4 times, and more preferably about 1.2 to 2 times.

The content of the concentrated birch sap of the component (a) is about 18 to 98% by weight, preferably 20 to 95% by weight, more preferably 22 to 92% by weight, most preferably 30 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the moisturizing cosmetic composition.

Examples of the sodium hyaluronate in the component (B) include, but are not limited to, or more of large molecular weight sodium hyaluronate (1800-.

Examples of the polyhydric alcohol in the component (B) include, but are not limited to, or more of glycerin, diglycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol-8, polyethylene glycol-32, xylitol, sorbitol, erythritol and the like.

Allantoin, ceramide and betaine in component (B) are also all known ingredients in the art and are commercially available.

The content of the component (B) is about 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 6% by weight, most preferably about 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the moisturizing cosmetic composition.

The moisturizing cosmetic composition may optionally include, in addition to the components (a) and (B), ingredients commonly used in component (C) moisturizing cosmetics, examples of which include, but are not limited to, vehicles, active ingredients, surfactants, and adjuvants, and the like. These ingredients are known in the art, and the type and amount of component (C) can be selected by those skilled in the art as desired, for example, the content of component (C) is usually 0 to 80% based on the total weight of the moisturizing cosmetic composition.

The vehicle is one known in the art, such as diluents, dispersants, carriers, and the like, examples of which include, but are not limited to, ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, and the like. The amount of said vehicle in said cosmetic composition is known in the art, and is for example generally comprised between 0.5 and 20% of the total weight of component (C).

The active ingredients are those known in the art, examples of which include, but are not limited to, for example, emollients, other humectants, and the like.

Examples of such emollients include, but are not limited to, olive oil, macadamia nut oil, sweet almond oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, corn oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, meadowfoam seed oil, safflower seed oil, rosa canina oil, argan oil, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, palm kernel oil, squalane, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isohexadecane, isododecane, diethylhexyl carbonate, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, hydrogenated polydecene, tris (ethylhexanoate), cetyl ethylhexanoate, bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, oleyl erucate myristate, octyldodecanol, dimethicone, octylmethicone, cetyl dimethicone, cyclopentadecyl dimethicone, and the like, examples of solid emollients include, but are not limited to, stearyl alcohol, cetyl stearyl alcohol, shark alcohol, behenyl wax, cetearyl wax.

Examples of such other humectants include, but are not limited to, or more of methyl gluceth-10, methyl gluceth-20, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, glyceryl polyether-7, glyceryl polyether-26, glyceryl glucoside, PPG-10 methyl gluceth, PPG-20 methyl gluceth, PEG/PPG/polytetramethylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin, sucrose, trehalose, rhamnose, mannose, raffinose, glyceryl polyether-5 lactate, sodium polyglutamate, hydrolyzed Sclerotinia sclerotiorum, pullulan, Tremella polysaccharides, lima bean seed polysaccharides, etc. the content of such moisturizers in such cosmetic compositions is known in the art, for example, it is typically 1-30% by weight of the total weight of component (C).

Examples of such adjuvants include, but are not limited to, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, and the like.

Examples of such emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-80, methylgluco-sesquistearate, PEG-20 methylgluco-sesquistearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-butanoeth-26, PEG-4 polyglyceryl-2 stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, steareth-2, steareth-21, PPG-13-decyltetraeth-24, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, coco glucoside, ceteareth-25, PEG-40 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylgluco distearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, sucrose % of the various cosmetic components generally known in the art (e.g. 0.32% of the total weight of such emulsifiers, e.g. the cosmetic components are included in the cosmetic composition.

Examples of the thickener include, but are not limited to, kinds or more of high molecular polymers such as carbomers, acrylates and derivatives thereof, xanthan gum, arabic gum, polyethylene glycol-14M, polyethylene glycol-90M, succinoglycan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, and the like, and the content of the thickener in the cosmetic composition is known in the art, and for example, it is usually 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the component (C).

Examples of such preservatives include, but are not limited to, or more of methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol, bis (hydroxymethyl) imidazolidinyl urea, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, chlorphenesin, sodium dehydroacetate, caprylhydroxamic acid, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, capryl glycol, caprylic glyceride, glyceryl deca carbonate, sorbitan caprylate, ethylhexylglycerin, moutan root extract, and the like, the content of such preservatives in the cosmetic composition is known in the art, for example, it is typically 0.01 to 2% by weight of the total component (B).

The moisturizing cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be prepared by any suitable method known in the art. For example, it is prepared using a dissolving tank, an emulsifying pot, a disperser, a transfer pump, etc., which are commonly used in the cosmetic field. The preparation method comprises putting water soluble substance into water phase dissolving kettle, putting oil soluble substance into oil phase dissolving kettle, heating the two kettles to about 80 deg.C, wherein the raw material easy to agglomerate can be pre-dispersed with disperser. After the dissolution is finished, the oil phase and the water phase are conveyed into an emulsifying pot, and homogenized and emulsified for about 5-15 minutes. After emulsification is finished, the temperature of the material body is reduced to normal temperature, optional essence, preservative and the like are added, and the pH of the product is adjusted according to needs. After the relevant detection indexes are qualified, the products can be filled and delivered.

The preparation method can be deleted or adjusted according to the requirements of dosage forms. The moisturizing cosmetic composition can be prepared into various dosage forms such as cream, milky lotion, essence, etc., as required.

Examples

The invention is described in further detail below at with reference to examples, however, it should be understood that these examples and comparative examples are intended only to illustrate the invention specifically and should not be construed as limiting in any way the scope of the appended claims.

Example 1: preparation of compositions A, A1, B, B1, B2, B3, B4, C, C1, C2, D, D1, D2, E, E1, E2, F, F1, F2 and J

The specific formula of each composition is as follows:

note: the data in the tables represent the weight% of the ingredients, based on the total weight of the composition, as follows

The above compositions were prepared as follows:

1. inputting fresh birch juice stock solution purchased from Daxingan Ling surpassing wild berry development Limited company into low-temperature drying equipment, cooling to-65 deg.C, vacuumizing to 0.1Pa, and concentrating to 1.2 times, 4 times, and 9 times;

2. mixing the raw materials No. 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 to obtain the corresponding composition.

Example 2: effect of compositions A, A1, B, B1, B2, B3, B4, C, C1, C2, D, D1, D2, E, E1, E2, F, F1, F2 on Gene expression of transglutaminase TGM1, epidermal tight junction protein (ZO-1 and CLDN1), Silk fibroin FLG and aquaporin AQP3

An experimental instrument: a fluorescent quantitative PCR instrument (Roche), a super clean bench (Sujing), a carbon dioxide incubator (Binder), a microplate reader (BIO-TEK) and a micro oscillator.

Experimental reagents and consumables: human primary keratinocytes, a 6-well plate, a keratinocyte culture solution, an RNA extraction kit, a reverse transcription kit, Trizol lysate and the like.

The fibroblast-based gene expression analysis procedure was as follows:

(1) inoculation: cells were seeded into 6-well plates at a seeding density of 5E 5/well at 37 ℃ and 5% CO₂Incubating in an incubator overnight;

(2) administration: when the cell plating rate in the 6-hole plate reaches about 60%, adding the test substances of each group, and arranging 6 multiple holes in each group;

(3) collecting a sample: at 37 ℃ and 5% CO₂After 24 hours in the incubator, discarding the culture solution, adding 1mL of Trizol into each hole, blowing and beating the lysed cells, and collecting samples;

(4) and (3) PCR detection: extracting RNA, carrying out reverse transcription to cDNA, and carrying out fluorescent quantitative PCR detection;

(5) and (3) analysis: by using 2^-△△CTThe method carries out result calculation and adopts a T-Test method for statistical analysis.

The test results are shown in the following table.

The above results show that the other compositions all increase the gene expression levels of cutin transglutaminase associated with skin barrier (TGM1), epidermal tight junction protein Z0-1 and CLDN, silk fibroin associated with skin water locking ability (FLG), and aquaporin associated with skin water absorption ability (AQP3) in keratinocytes to a certain extent as compared to blank control J, indicating that the compositions comprising birch juice, concentrated birch juice, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, glycerol, ceramide, allantoin or betaine all have a moisturizing effect of , however, the combination of the 1.2-fold concentrated birch juice with sodium hyaluronate, glycerol, ceramide, allantoin or betaine, respectively, compared to the results of compositions B2, C2, D2, E2, F2 and compositions a1, B, C, D, E, F, respectively, clearly shows that the gene expression levels of each protein are very significantly increased, which is sufficient to indicate that the synergistic effect of the birch juice with the other components, particularly synergistic effect of the compositions, the concentrated compositions B585-fold, B585-9-fold, B-5-9-fold, preferably the concentrated moisturizing effect of the compositions comprising betulin, B635-9, B-598, preferably the concentrated moisturizing effect of the cosmetic composition, B-5, B-598, preferably the concentrated betulin, C-9, and the concentrated moisturizing effect of the composition B2, C2, D-9, preferably the composition of the.

Example 3: effects of compositions B1, B2 and C1, C2 on protein expression of transglutaminase TGM1, epidermal tight junction protein (ZO-1 and CLDN1), filaggrin FLG and aquaporin AQP3

In this example, the effect of the above compositions B1, B2 and C1, C2 on the expression of senescence-associated proteins was further tested and compared at .

An experimental instrument: super clean bench (Sujing), plate washing machine (BIO-RAD), enzyme labeling instrument (BIO-TEK), carbon dioxide incubator (Binder)

Experimental reagents and consumables: human primary keratinocytes, a 12-hole plate, a keratinocyte culture solution, ELISA detection kits with different indexes and the like.

The test procedure was as follows:

(1) inoculating at the inoculation density of 2E 5/well in 12-well culture plate, culturing at 37 deg.C in 5% CO2 incubator, and changing culture medium every two days for times;

(2) administration: when the cell fusion reaches more than 60 percent again, adding the test substances of different groups, and arranging 6 compound holes in each group;

(3) collecting a sample: at 37 ℃ and 5% CO₂After 48 hours in the incubator, discarding the culture solution, adding 1mL of Trizol into each hole, blowing and beating the lysed cells, and collecting the samples;

(4) and (3) detection: performing index measurement according to a measurement method of the ELISA kit;

(5) and (3) analysis: and carrying out statistical analysis by adopting a T-Test method.

The test results are shown in the following table.

Sample (I)	TGM1	ZO-1	CLDN1	FLG	AQP3
						B1	3.85±0.34	3.71±0.32	4.06±0.33	3.89±0.29	3.23±0.28
B2	6.74±0.55	6.07±0.52	7.98±0.81	7.74±0.63	6.05±0.60
						C1	4.17±0.65	4.07±0.38	4.58±0.42	3.75±0.38	3.12±0.29
C2	7.03±0.71	6.57±0.59	7.75±0.73	7.93±0.71	6.62±0.67

The above results show that the compositions B2 and C2 containing 1.2 times of concentrated birch juice and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, or glycerin significantly improved the gene expression level of each protein compared to the compositions B1 and C1 containing raw birch juice and hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, or glycerin, which indicates that the synergistic effect of concentrated birch juice on moisturizing ingredients such as hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate or glycerin is significantly improved compared to raw birch juice, which is unexpected.

Example 4: preparation of compositions G, G1, G2 and J1

G: hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate

G1: birch juice stock solution and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate

G2: 1.2 times of concentrated birch juice and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate

J1: blank control

	Composition (I)	G	G1	G2	J1
						1	Birch sap	——	92.3	——	——
2	Concentrated birch juice 1.2 times	——	——	92.3	——
						3	Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate	0.5	0.5	0.5	——
4	Allantoin	——	——	——	——
						5	Water (W)	92.3	——	——	92.8
6	Hydroxy phenyl methyl ester	0.15	0.15	0.15	0.15
						7	Xanthan gum	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1
8	Glycerol	3.5	3.5	3.5	3.5
						9	Dipropylene glycol	3	3	3	3
10	Arginine	0.1	0.1	0.1	0.1
						11	Phenoxyethanol	0.3	0.3	0.3	0.3
12	Octylene glycol	0.05	0.05	0.05	0.05

The above compositions were prepared as follows:

1. the raw materials 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11 and 12 are put into an emulsifying pot, the temperature is raised to 80 ℃ while stirring, and the temperature is kept for 10 minutes.

2. The temperature is reduced to 45 ℃ while stirring.

3. Add raw materials 10 and stir for 10 minutes.

4. Discharging after the inspection is qualified.

Example 5: effect of compositions G, G1, G2 and J1 on skin moisturizing Effect

The measurement was carried out using a skin surface water content measuring instrument of Corneometer (Courage & Khazaka, Germany). about 0.02 g of each composition sample was dropped into a previously marked square area on the arm of the volunteer times each morning and evening, and the sample was evenly spread in the area.the moisture content of the skin epidermis (unit: a.u.) was measured with the instrument before (reference) and for 14 days of use for the sample, and the measurement was averaged three times per areas.

Note: indicates significance compared to composition G (hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate group), P value less than 0.05;

indicated very significant compared to composition G (hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate group), P value was less than 0.01.

The above results show that after 14 days of continuous use, compositions G, G1 and G2 both significantly increased the moisture content of the epidermis of the skin of the subject compared to the blank control group J1. And compared with the composition G only containing the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, the compositions G1 and G2 containing the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate and the birch juice or the concentrated birch juice can obviously improve the moisturizing performance of the skin. In particular, composition G2 was able to very significantly increase the moisture content of the epidermis of the skin of the subject.

Example 6: moisture mask

The formula of the moisturizing facial mask is as follows:

serial number	Composition (I)	By weight%
			1	Concentrated birch juice 1.5 times	90.75
2	Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate	0.05
			3	Polyglutamic acid sodium salt	0.05
4	Hyaluronic acid sodium salt	0.05
			5	Allantoin	0.1
6	Xanthan gum	0.1
			7	Hydroxy phenyl methyl ester	0.2
8	Panthenol	0.3
			9	Betaine	2
10	Glycerol	2
			11	Dipropylene glycol	4
12	Carbomer	0.2
			13	Octylene glycol	0.1
14	Tromethamine	0.1

The above moisturizing mask composition was prepared as follows:

1. the raw material 6 is uniformly dispersed by the raw material 10.

2. The raw material 1 is put into an emulsifying pot, the raw material 12 is scattered while stirring, and the raw materials 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 are put into the emulsifying pot after the raw material 12 is completely swelled.

3. Heating to 80 ℃ while stirring, homogenizing at high speed for 5 minutes, and keeping the temperature for 10 minutes.

4. The temperature is reduced to 40 ℃ while stirring, and the raw materials 13 and 14 are added.

5. Stirred for 10 minutes.

6. Discharging after the inspection is qualified.

After 20 subjects used the moisturizing mask of the above formula for 2 weeks, the use was subjectively evaluated. The results showed that 20 subjects all reflected a significant improvement in skin dryness and a significant increase in moisture content after use. Of these, 18 reflected that the skin became smoother and more tender after application, and continued application significantly improved the skin barrier and reduced skin problems.

Example 7: moisturizing emulsion

The formula of the moisturizing emulsion is as follows:

serial number	Composition (I)	By weight%
			1	4 times concentrated birch juice	84
2	Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate	0.05
			3	Hyaluronic acid sodium salt	0.05
4	Allantoin	0.1
			5	Xanthan gum	0.1
6	Hydroxy phenyl methyl ester	0.2
			7	Polysorbate-60	0.3
8	PEG-60 hydrogenated Castor oil	0.5
			9	Betaine	1
10	Dipropylene glycol	4
			11	Glycerol	5
12	Carbomer	0.2
			13	Phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate	1
14	Squalane	2
			15	Tromethamine	0.1
16	PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer	1
			17	Phenoxyethanol	0.4

The above moisturizing emulsion composition was prepared as follows:

1. the raw material 5 is uniformly dispersed with the raw material 10.

4. Adding the raw materials 13 and 14, homogenizing at high speed for 5 minutes, and keeping the temperature for 10 minutes.

5. The temperature is reduced to 60 ℃ while stirring, and the raw material 15 is added.

6. Cooling to 50 deg.C, adding raw materials 16 and 17, and slowly homogenizing for 3 min.

7. The temperature was reduced to 40 ℃ while stirring.

8. Discharging after the inspection is qualified.

Example 8: moisturizing cream

The formula of the moisturizing cream is as follows:

serial number	Composition (I)	By weight%
			1	2 times concentrated birch juice	62.2
2	Polyglutamic acid sodium salt	0.1
			3	Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate	0.1
4	Xanthan gum	0.2
			5	Allantoin	0.2
6	Hydroxy phenyl methyl ester	0.2
			7	Hydrogenated lecithin	0.5
8	Panthenol	0.5
			9	Betaine	3
10	Butanediol	4
			11	Glycerol	6
12	Carbomer	0.2
			13	Propyl hydroxybenzoate	0.1
14	Phytosterol/octyldodecanol lauroyl glutamate	1
			15	Microcrystalline wax	1
16	C10-18 fatty acid triglycerides	2
			17	Cetearyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol	2
18	Cetostearyl alcohol	2
			19	PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate	3
20	Caprylic/capric triglyceride	4
			21	Cocoanol-caprylate/caprate	5
22	Polydimethylsiloxane	2
			23	Tromethamine	0.2
24	Phenoxyethanol	0.5

The moisturizing cream composition is prepared as follows:

1. the raw material 4 and the raw material 11 are uniformly dispersed.

2. The raw material 7 was dissolved in the raw material 10 by heating.

3. Adding the raw material 1 into a water phase pot, scattering the raw material 12 while stirring, adding the raw materials 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 after the raw material No. 12 is completely swelled, and heating to 80 ℃.

4. The raw materials 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 and 22 are put into an oil phase pot, and the temperature is raised to 80 ℃.

5. Pumping the raw materials in the water phase pot into an emulsifying pot, and homogenizing at high speed for 5 minutes.

6. Pumping the raw materials in the oil phase pot into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing at high speed for 5 minutes, and keeping the temperature for 10 minutes.

7. Cooling to 50 deg.C while stirring, adding raw materials 23 and 24, and slowly homogenizing for 3 min.

8. The temperature was reduced to 40 ℃ while stirring.

9. Discharging after the inspection is qualified.

In this example, the skin moisture content of 20 volunteers was tested using a Corneometer (Courage & Khazaka, germany). The test method is as follows:

a sample of each composition, about 0.02 g, was dropped into a previously marked square area on the arm of the volunteer times a day, morning and evening, and the sample was spread evenly over the area the moisture content of the skin epidermis (unit: a.u.) was measured before (baseline) and 14 days of use with the instrument and the average was taken by repeating the test three times every areas.

The test results show that the average moisture content of the skin of 20 subjects is improved by 158%, indicating that the cream has extremely remarkable moisturizing performance.

Example 9: moisturizing cleanser

The formula of the moisturizing facial cleanser is as follows:

serial number	Composition (I)	By weight%
			1	3 times concentrated birch juice	40.59
2	Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate	0.01
			3	Polyethylene glycol-14M	0.1
4	Acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer	0.5
			5	Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate	5
6	Sodium lauroyl glutamate	22
			7	Glycerol	25
8	Stearic acid	0.5
			9	Lauric acid	3.5
10	PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate and 1, 3-propylene glycol	1
			11	Citric acid	0.3
12	Sodium dihydrogen phosphate	1
			13	Phenoxyethanol	0.5

The moisturizing cleanser composition is prepared as follows:

1. the raw materials 2 and 3 are uniformly dispersed by the raw material 7.

2. Adding the raw material 1 into an emulsifying pot, scattering the raw material 4 while stirring, adding the raw material 2, the raw material 3 and the raw material 7 after the raw material 4 is completely swelled, heating to 80 ℃ while stirring, and homogenizing at high speed for 5 minutes.

3. And (3) adding the raw materials 5 and 6, and stirring at a constant temperature until the material body becomes clear and transparent.

4. Adding the raw materials 8 and 9, and stirring for 20 minutes under the condition of heat preservation.

5. The raw materials 10, 11, 12 and 13 were charged and the temperature was maintained for 10 minutes.

6. The temperature was reduced to 40 ℃ while stirring.

7. Discharging after the inspection is qualified.

After 20 subjects used the moisturizing facial cleanser with the above formula for 2 weeks, the use of the facial cleanser was subjectively evaluated. The results showed that 19 people showed no tightness and dryness of the skin after washing.

Example 10: moisture-preserving essence

The formula of the moisturizing essence is as follows:

the moisturizing essence composition is prepared as follows:

1. the raw material 3 and the raw material 11 are uniformly dispersed.

2. Adding the raw material 1 into an emulsifying pot, scattering the raw material 14 and the raw material 15 while stirring, adding the raw materials 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and the raw material 13 after the raw material 14 and the raw material 15 are completely swelled, heating to 80 ℃ while stirring, homogenizing at a high speed for 5 minutes, and keeping the temperature for 10 minutes.

3. Cooling to 50 deg.C while stirring, adding raw materials 16, 17 and 18, and homogenizing at high speed for 5 min.

4. The temperature is reduced to 50 ℃ while stirring, and the raw materials 19 and 20 are added.

5. The temperature was reduced to 40 ℃ while stirring.

6. Discharging after the inspection is qualified.

After 20 subjects used the moisturizing essence with the formula for 2 weeks, the use condition was subjectively evaluated. Results 19 people reflected a significant improvement in skin dryness and a significant increase in moisture content. Of these, 17 people showed that the skin became smoother, tender, and elastic, and the dry wrinkles on the face and eyes were significantly improved.

The technical solutions of the above-described embodiments are preferred embodiments of the present invention, and several modifications and changes can be made without departing from the principle of the present invention, and these modifications and changes should also be considered as being within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

Use of (a) concentrated birch sap in combination with (B) or more selected from sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, ceramide, betaine and polyol in a moisturizing cosmetic composition, wherein the concentration of the concentrated birch sap is 1.05-8 times, preferably 1.1-4 times, more preferably 1.2-2 times.
2. The use according to claim 1, wherein the moisturizing cosmetic composition does not comprise any added water.
moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising (A) concentrated birch juice with a concentration factor of 1.05-8 times, preferably 1.1-4 times, more preferably 1.2-2 times, and (B) or more selected from sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, ceramide, betaine and polyol.
4. The moisturizing cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein the content of the component (A), the concentrated birch sap, is 18 to 98% by weight, preferably 20 to 95% by weight, more preferably 22 to 92% by weight, most preferably 30 to 90% by weight, based on the total weight of the moisturizing cosmetic composition.
5. The moisturizing cosmetic composition of claim 3 or 4, wherein the component (B) is present in an amount of 0.005 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 6% by weight, most preferably about 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the moisturizing cosmetic composition.
6. The moisturizing cosmetic composition of any of claims 3-5, wherein the moisturizing cosmetic composition does not comprise any added water.