CN115487088A - Cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid and application thereof - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid and application thereof Download PDF

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CN115487088A
CN115487088A CN202211238945.8A CN202211238945A CN115487088A CN 115487088 A CN115487088 A CN 115487088A CN 202211238945 A CN202211238945 A CN 202211238945A CN 115487088 A CN115487088 A CN 115487088A
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oleanolic acid
cosmetic composition
lactobacillus
soybean extract
solution
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武改红
王鹏
沙欧
刘芬
张蕾
杨珍
张秀君
王艳
李雪
富利燕
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Tianjin Shangmei Cosmetics Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/99Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

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Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid and application thereof, the cosmetic composition contains a solubilization system of oleanolic acid and lactobacillus soybean extract, the solubilization system can effectively stimulate collagen production, reduce wrinkles and is easy to absorb by skin, and the cosmetic can make oleanolic acid more stable.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid and application thereof.
Background
Oleanolic Acid (OA) is a pentacyclic triterpenoid compound, is a chemical component of a natural product, is widely distributed in the plant world, such as swertia mileensis, glossy privet fruit and other plants, and has wide pharmacological effects of protecting liver, resisting cancer, reducing blood sugar, reducing blood fat and the like. Because of its good safety, oleanolic acid is also gradually applied in the field of skin care cosmetics, such as for cutaneous vasculitis, reduction of skin scar, and anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. However, the main problem of oleanolic acid is poor water solubility, which is basically insoluble in water, and oral oleanolic acid can hardly be absorbed due to poor water solubility (bioavailability is less than 1%). The solubility of oleanolic acid in buffer salt with pH of 1-6 is less than 0.001mg/ml, and the compound belongs to low-solubility high-permeability medicine, namely BSC-II medicine according to classification of biological medicine classification system. For such compounds, solubility and dissolution may be rate limiting steps for their use as pharmaceuticals. Resulting in difficulty in exerting its activity.
In order to improve solubility, although the amount of oleanolic acid dissolved can be increased by using organic solvents on the premise of meeting the technical specifications for cosmetic safety, there is a safety risk in using these solvents at a high addition amount, and the obtained solution formulation is irritating to the skin, so that the feeling of use on the skin is very poor and is hardly acceptable to consumers. Therefore, in order to solve this problem, it is reported that oleanolic acid is prepared into a salt or ester to improve its solubility, for example, CN112190610a discloses a method for preparing liposome carrying oleanolic acid and other plant active ingredients, wherein oleanolic acid is dissolved in phosphate buffer solution with pH of 8.5 to 9.0, however, according to the published literature, the solubility of oleanolic acid in phosphate buffer solution with pH of 9 is only 10 μ g/ml, when oleanolic acid is added in a large amount, most of oleanolic acid exists in a non-dissolved suspended form, and only a very small amount of oleanolic acid is in a dissolved state. Furthermore, oleanolic acid is unstable to acid and alkali, and the alkalescent phosphate buffer solution is not beneficial to the stability of oleanolic acid. CN114796000A discloses an oleanolic acid micro-emulsion composition and its use in preparing cosmetics and skin external preparations, wherein the micro-emulsion is prepared from oleanolic acid, surfactant, cosurfactant, plant essential oil, water, cyclodextrin and water-soluble chitosan derivative. JP2009035512a discloses a skin care preparation in the form of an emulsion for external use, and discloses that a triterpene such as oleanolic acid is esterified and then an organically modified clay mineral is added as an essential component, wherein organically modifying means that a part of an organic compound is firmly or slowly bound together by a covalent bond or an ionic bond to make an external emulsion preparation.
In addition, CN103221028a also discloses a cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid, which is reported to stimulate the synthesis of procollagen, which plays an important role in collagen production, and ceramide and filaggrin, which play an important role in anti-aging, only as oleanolic acid, which is known as a natural functional ingredient for reducing wrinkles, is disclosed. In addition, it has a dual anti-aging system that stimulates the production of collagen and prevents collagen damage by inhibiting the activity of MMP-1, an enzyme that destroys polymer proteins (e.g., produced collagen). As described above, oleanolic acid has an excellent effect of reducing skin wrinkles. Encapsulating oleanolic acid in a nanoemulsion with a size of 100-150nm and further encapsulating oleanolic acid with a polymer emulsifier using natural polysaccharide inulin) can enhance the stability of oleanolic acid, and the encapsulated oleanolic acid can be used in various types of cosmetic preparations. However, when the above-mentioned encapsulated oleanolic acid is incorporated into an emulsion type preparation, the temperature is required to be 50 ℃ or lower, and a low homogenizing and mixing speed is required in order to prevent the capsule from being damaged during the preparation process. In particular, in soluble formulations, there still remain problems associated with the stability and unstable activity of oleanolic acid.
However, for external cosmetic preparations, in addition to ensuring ease of preparation of the preparation, it is also necessary to ensure that the active ingredient is absorbed by the skin layer. The transdermal absorption of the active ingredient in the external preparation comprises three stages of release, penetration and absorption. Release refers to the release of the active ingredient from the matrix and diffusion to the skin or mucosal surface; penetration means that the active ingredient enters into the dermis and subcutaneous tissue through the epidermis to have a therapeutic effect on local tissues; absorption means that the active ingredient passes through the skin or mucous membranes through the blood or lymphatic vessels into the systemic circulation to produce a systemic effect. It is generally accepted that the penetration of the active ingredient through the stratum corneum cells and their intercellular spaces of the intact epidermis is the major route of its absorption, and that the skin's accessory organs occupy a small area of the skin and are not the major route of penetration absorption. Factors that affect transdermal absorption of active ingredients typically include skin condition, the nature of the active ingredient. The nature of the active ingredient is an important factor, and because the skin cell membrane is lipidic, fat-soluble drugs generally penetrate the skin more readily than water-soluble drugs, while interstitial fluid is polar. Therefore, the transdermal absorption of the active ingredients with proper oil and water distribution coefficients, certain lipid solubility and certain water solubility is ideal. Because the external cosmetic mainly acts on the applied skin part and does not need to realize transdermal blood injection to play a role of the whole body, the oleanolic acid cosmetic preparation can better act on the skin by making the oleanolic acid cosmetic preparation exist in a fat-soluble prototype. Although surfactants may be used to increase the solubility of oleanolic acid, surfactants tend to cause the dissolution of skin stratum corneum lipids, the swelling, denaturation of keratin, and the washing away of Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) of skin stratum corneum cells. The long-term use of cosmetics containing surfactants causes skin drying, itching, impaired barrier function of skin epidermis, and external irritants are more likely to enter the inside of skin, even to turn into sensitive muscles directly at last. Therefore, the problem of how to prepare stable oleanolic acid cosmetic preparation which is easy to absorb by skin and has no irritation and high safety by adopting natural plant components still remains to be solved.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention aims to overcome the disadvantages of the prior art and to provide a cosmetic composition comprising oleanolic acid which is effective in stimulating collagen production, reducing wrinkles, is easily absorbed by the skin, and has a soluble or solubilized, stable oleanolic acid cosmetic preparation. Accordingly, an object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid, which is a sparingly soluble compound, having the above excellent effects.
The invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
the invention provides a water-soluble preparation of oleanolic acid, which comprises, by weight, 0.5-2.5 parts of oleanolic acid, 100-200 parts of lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation product and solvent water, wherein the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation product is a solid of fermentation liquor of the soybean extract fermented by lactobacillus.
The invention provides a cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid, which comprises 0.5-2.5 parts by weight of oleanolic acid and 100-200 parts by weight of lactobacillus soybean extract leavening according to the weight part ratio, wherein the lactobacillus soybean extract leavening is solid of leavening liquid of the soybean extract fermented by lactobacillus.
Preferably contains oleanolic acid 1.0, 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2, 2.5 weight parts, preferably contains lactobacillus and soybean extract fermentation product 100, 120, 140, 150, 160, 180, 200 weight parts.
The invention also provides a cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid, which comprises an enhanced solution, wherein the enhanced solution consists of oleanolic acid, lactobacillus soybean extract leavening and water, the concentration of the oleanolic acid is 0.05-0.25% and the concentration of the lactobacillus soybean extract leavening is 10-20% on the basis of the enhanced solution, and the lactobacillus soybean extract leavening is a solid of the fermentation liquor of the soybean extract fermented by lactobacillus.
The concentration of oleanolic acid is preferably 0.1%, 0.12%, 0.15%, 0.18%, 0.2%, 0.22%, 0.25% in g/100ml based on the builder solution. The concentration of lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation product is preferably 12%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 18%, 20%.
The lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation product is fermentation liquor of the soybean extract fermented by lactobacillus or a solid matter thereof, and the solid matter is prepared by concentrating, vacuum drying, spray drying or freeze drying the fermentation liquor.
The soybean extract is soybean water extract containing soybean isoflavone 5-15%, preferably soybean isoflavone 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%, 11%, 12%, 13%, 1%, and preferably soybean isoflavone 8%. The soybean extract of the present invention further comprises soyasaponin.
In the solubilizing solution or water-soluble preparation, the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation product and oleanolic acid form intramolecular or intermolecular hydrogen bond association, and the oleanolic acid exists in the solubilizing solution in a soluble form.
The cosmetic composition does not contain an emulsifier or a surfactant.
The cosmetic composition comprises an oil phase and an aqueous phase, wherein the aqueous phase comprises the solubilizing solution or the water-soluble preparation, and preferably the aqueous phase does not contain an emulsifier or a surfactant or contains less than 0.2% of a surfactant.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises 50-90% by weight of the solubilizing solution or water-soluble preparation based on the cosmetic composition. More preferably 60%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90% of the solubilizing solution or water-soluble formulation described above.
The cosmetic composition is one of moisturizing water, gel, emulsion and cream.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the synergistic solution or the water-soluble preparation, which comprises the steps of adding the oleanolic acid and the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation product in parts by weight into water, and uniformly mixing at the temperature of 30-45 ℃ to prepare the synergistic solution with the concentration. More preferably 35 ℃ and 40 ℃.
The invention also provides a cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid, wherein the cosmetic composition is a cream, the oil phase of the cream comprises octadecanol, squalane and polydimethylsiloxane, and the water phase of the cream comprises polyalcohol, thickener and the solubilizing solution.
The cream comprises 15-30% of oil phase and 70-85% of water phase by total weight of the cream.
Further preferably, the oil phase comprises 2-6% octadecanol, 2-6% squalane and 2-5% polydimethylsiloxane, and the aqueous phase comprises 5-10% polyol, 0.2-1% thickener and 60-75% of the above-mentioned solubilizing solutions, more preferably 68%, 70%, 71%, 72%, 74% solubilizing solutions.
Further preferably, the oil phase comprises 2-6% of stearyl alcohol, 1-3% of cetyl alcohol, 3-6% of cetearyl octanoate, 3-5% of isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, 1-3% of glyceryl caprylate/caprate, 2-6% of squalane and 2-5% of polydimethylsiloxane, and the aqueous phase comprises 5-10% of polyol, 0.2-1% of thickener and 60-75% of the solubilizing solution. The polyalcohol is one or two of glycerin and butanediol, and the thickener is one or more of xanthan gum, sodium hyaluronate and xanthan gum.
The cream of the invention has no visible particles.
The invention also provides an emulsion, wherein the oil phase of the cream comprises octadecanol, jojoba oil, isopropyl palmitate and polydimethylsiloxane, and the water phase comprises polyalcohol, thickening agent and the solubilizing solution as described in any one of claims 1-2.
Based on the total weight of the emulsion, the emulsion comprises 4-10% of oil phase and 90-96% of water phase.
Further preferably, the oil phase comprises 0.5-2.5% octadecanol, 0.5-2.5% squalane and 0.5-2.5% polydimethylsiloxane, and the aqueous phase comprises 5-10% polyol, 0.2-1% thickener and 60-85% of the above solubilizing solutions, more preferably 68%, 70%, 71%, 72%, 74% solubilizing solutions.
The present invention also provides another embodiment:
a water-soluble preparation of oleanolic acid comprises, by weight, 0.5-2.5 parts of oleanolic acid, 100-200 parts of soybean water extract and solvent water.
The invention provides a cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid, which comprises a solubilizing solution, wherein the solubilizing solution comprises 0.5-2.5 parts by weight of oleanolic acid and 100-200 parts by weight of soybean water extract according to the weight part ratio.
Preferably contains oleanolic acid 1.0, 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 2.0, 2.2, 2.5 weight parts, preferably soybean water extract 100, 120, 140, 150, 160, 180, 200 weight parts.
The invention also provides a cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid, which comprises a builder solution, wherein the builder solution consists of oleanolic acid, a soybean water extract and water, and the concentration of the oleanolic acid is 0.05-0.25% and the concentration of the soybean water extract is 10-20% by taking the builder solution as a reference.
The concentration of oleanolic acid is preferably 0.1%, 0.12%, 0.15%, 0.18%, 0.2%, 0.22%, 0.25% in g/100ml based on the builder solution. The concentration of the soybean water extract is preferably 12%, 14%, 15%, 16%, 18%, 20%.
The invention also provides the application of the cosmetic composition in preparing cosmetics for promoting collagen regeneration and reducing wrinkles.
Description of the drawings:
FIG. 1 the effect of different mass concentrations of soy extract/Lactobacillus soy extract fermentation broth on the solubility of oleanolic acid in the solubilization system;
FIG. 2 effect of temperature on solubility of oleanolic acid in solubilizing system;
FIG. 3 is an infrared spectrum of a Lactobacillus soy extract fermentation broth A-oleanolic acid solubilization system;
FIG. 4 is an infrared spectrum of a Lactobacillus soy extract fermentation broth B-oleanolic acid solubilization system;
FIG. 5 is the emulsion droplet morphology of Lactobacillus soyabean extract fermentation broth-oleanolic acid cream under optical microscope.
Example 1
Preparation method of solubilizing system of soybean extract/lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor-oleanolic acid
Preparing a solubilizing solution: weighing excessive insoluble active substance oleanolic acid (purity greater than 98%) powder, placing into 5mL centrifuge tube, adding 4mL ultrapure water or soybean extract solution or lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquid, vortex for 30s, and mixing. Placing in a gas bath constant temperature oscillator, shaking at a certain temperature to dissolve and balance, centrifuging at 10000 Xg for 10min, and filtering the supernatant with 0.22 μm microporous membrane to obtain solubilization solution for loading each insoluble active substance.
Wherein, the preparation of lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor: 10g of the soybean extract was mixed with 100mL of ultrapure water in a 500mL Erlenmeyer flask and sterilized at 121 ℃ for 30min. Respectively absorbing lactobacillus bacterial liquid with OD value of 2.0 (A) and OD value of 3.53 (B), inoculating into the mixed liquid of soybean extract and water in a sterile operation table, and shake-culturing for 48h in a shaking table at 37 ℃ to obtain a soybean extract fermentation product; sterilizing the product at 100 deg.C for 30min, centrifuging at 5000r/min for 25min, and collecting supernatant to obtain lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquid A or B, or further concentrating and drying the fermentation liquid to obtain solid, and adding water to obtain lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquid A or B.
Wherein the soybean extract is water-extracted soybean extract containing 8% soybean isoflavone.
Determination of oleanolic acid solubility in the solubilization system: diluting the solution with corresponding mobile phase by a certain times, mixing uniformly by vortex, and filtering with 0.22 μm microporous membrane to obtain oleanolic acid filtrate. Performing ultrasonic treatment on the filtrate for 2min, performing HPLC analysis according to corresponding chromatographic conditions, and calculating oleanolic acid solubility according to an external standard method.
Chromatographic conditions
A chromatographic column: waters C18 column (100 mm. Times.2.1mm, 1.7 μm); flow rate: 0.2mL/min; sample introduction amount: 2 mu L of the solution; mobile phase: methanol-water (85: 15); column temperature: 30 ℃; detection wavelength: 210nm; the elution time was 20min.
Experiment for influence of mass concentration change of soybean extract/lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor on oleanolic acid solubility
On the basis of the capacity-increasing system experiment, the temperature of a gas bath constant temperature oscillator is fixed at 40 ℃, the rotating speed is 200rpm, and the time is 4 hours, and the influence of the mass concentration change of the soybean extract/lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor on the solubility of oleanolic acid is examined.
As is apparent from table 1 and fig. 1, the water solubility of oleanolic acid was greatly increased by adding the soybean extract/lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation broth as compared with that in ultrapure water, and the water solubility of oleanolic acid was also increased as the mass concentration of the soybean extract/lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation broth was increased. When the mass concentration of the soybean extract/lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor is 150mg/mL, the amplification of the oleanolic acid solubility is large, the oleanolic acid solubility reaches 1-1.5 mg/mL, and the solubilization effect is obvious. Meanwhile, the result shows that the solubilization effect of lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor aligned with oleanolic acid is more obvious compared with the soybean extract, and taking the mass concentration of the soybean extract/lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor as 150mg/mL as an example, the solubilization effect of lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor A is improved by about 30% compared with the soybean extract, and the two are obviously different.
TABLE 1 influence of different mass concentrations of Soybean extract and Lactobacillus Soybean extract fermentation broth on Oleanolic acid solubility
Figure BSA0000285852610000071
EXAMPLE 2 Effect of temperature on Oleanolic acid solubility in solubilization System
The method of example 1 was followed, wherein the rotational speed of the gas bath constant temperature oscillator was set at 200rpm for 4 hours, and the mass concentration of the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation broth was added at the above-mentioned concentration of 150 mg/L. The influence of temperature change on the solubility of oleanolic acid in the solubilization system was examined.
As can be seen from Table 2 and FIG. 2, the effect of the temperature on the oleanolic acid is large, and when the temperature is lower than 40 ℃, the solubilization effect of the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquid on the oleanolic acid is obviously improved along with the increase of the temperature. However, with the continuous increase of temperature, the solubility of oleanolic acid in the solubilization system is greatly reduced, and specific reasons are still to be studied. When the temperature is 40 ℃, the increase of the solubility of the oleanolic acid is large, the concentration of the solubilized oleanolic acid reaches 1.5-1.65 mg/mL, and the solubilization effect is obvious. Therefore, 40 ℃ is selected as the optimal preparation temperature of the oleanolic acid solubilization system.
TABLE 2 Effect of different temperatures on the solubility of oleanolic acid
Figure BSA0000285852610000081
Example 3 characterization of Lactobacillus Soy extract fermentation broth-Oleanolic acid solubilization System
Particle size analysis
Detecting the particle size distribution and PDI of the solubilization substance and the solubilization solution by using a dynamic light scattering particle size analyzer, diluting the samples by using ultrapure water for 5 times at 25 ℃, measuring each group of samples for 3 times, and taking an average value.
The average particle size and PDI thereof in the lactobacillus soy extract broth of example 1 and the lactobacillus soy extract broth-oleanolic acid fortified solution of example 2 are shown in table 3. The particle size and distribution of the soybean extract and the fermentation liquor thereof in water are similar, and compared with the soybean extract/fermentation liquor group, the particle size of the oleanolic acid loaded solubilizing solution is not obviously different and is about 1 nm.
Table 3 particle size and PDI of the loaded soybean extract/fermentation broth-oleanolic acid solubilization system
Figure BSA0000285852610000082
Fourier transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FT-IR) analysis
Weighing 1-2 mg of lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation broth A/B dry powder, oleanolic acid, physical mixture and solubilization powder (solubilization dry product prepared in example 2), grinding and mixing with dried KBr fine powder, making into uniform sheet with a tablet press, and making into sheet with thickness of 4000-400 cm -1 Wavelength range the infrared absorption spectrum is determined.
The measurement results of the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor A group are as follows: the infrared spectrum of the tested sample is shown in figure 3, and the infrared spectrum characteristics of each sample are as follows: oleanolic acid is disclosed in 3435.87, 2939.38, 2869.39, 2578.84, 1691.38, 1543.62, 1066.37cm -1 Having an absorption peak at or near the iso-site. 3435cm, as known from the literature -1 The nearby absorption peak is the stretching vibration peak of oleanolic acid polymer-OH; 2939cm -1 nearby-CH 3-and-CH 2-hydrocarbon stretching vibration absorption peaks; 1691cm in length -1 The nearby is a fatty acid carbonyl stretching vibration peak; 1543cm -1 The vicinity is a saturated alkane hydrocarbon bending vibration peak; 1066cm -1 The vicinity is a stretching vibration peak of the carbon-oxygen single bond of the saturated secondary alcohol. The lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor A is prepared from 3993.59, 3854.81, 3640.96, 2593.00, 2438.64, 2387.66cm -1 Obvious absorption is in place; absorption peaks 3997.84, 3893.04, 2387.66, 2280.031, 1984.05cm -1 (ii) a The infrared characteristic absorption of the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor A is basically consistent, and the solution is increased by 3490.88cm -1 The peak shape is wider, and may be a broad-OH stretching peak, and the physical mixture does not have such a peak, which indicates that the hydroxyl groups in the solution are associated by hydrogen bonds in molecules or between molecules. And no new absorption peak appears in the scanning range, which indicates that no new chemical bond is generated in the solubilization system.
The B group determination result of the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor is as follows: the infrared spectrum of the measured sample is shown in fig. 4, and the infrared spectrum characteristics of each sample are as follows: oleanolic acid is disclosed in 3435.87, 2939.38, 2869.39, 2578.84, 1691.38, 1543.62, 1066.37cm -1 Having an absorption peak at or near the iso-site. 3435cm, as known from the literature -1 The nearby absorption peak is the stretching vibration peak of the oleanolic acid polymer-OH; 2939cm -1 nearby-CH 3-and-CH 2-hydrocarbon stretching vibration absorption peaks; 1691cm in length -1 The nearby is a fatty acid carbonyl stretching vibration peak; 1543cm -1 The vicinity is a saturated alkane hydrocarbon bending vibration peak; 1066cm -1 The neighborhood is a stretching vibration peak of a carbon-oxygen single bond of the saturated secondary alcohol. The lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor B is prepared from 3996.42, 3949.69, 3854.81, 2529.27, 2437.22, 2248.87cm -1 Obvious absorption is in place; absorption peaks 3997.84, 2393.32 and 1899.08cm of the solution -1 (ii) a The infrared characteristic absorption of the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor B is basically consistent, and the solution is increased by 3490.53cm -1 The peak shape is wider, and may be a broad-OH stretching peak, and the physical mixture does not have the peak, which indicates that the solution is increasedHydroxyl groups are associated with intramolecular or intermolecular hydrogen bonding. And no new absorption peak appears in the scanning range, which indicates that no new chemical bond is generated in the solubilizing system.
Therefore, the results show that the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor and oleanolic acid form intramolecular or intermolecular hydrogen bond association in the aqueous solution, so that the solubilization effect is improved.
EXAMPLE 4 preparation of cream preparation containing solubilizing System and evaluation of stability
The raw materials were prepared according to the recipe of table 4, and then the cream was prepared by the following steps:
1) Heating the components of the water phase to 40 ℃, fully mixing and dissolving, and keeping the temperature for later use.
2) Heating the components of the oil phase to 70-80 deg.C, mixing thoroughly and dissolving, homogenizing for 5-10min, and keeping the temperature for use.
3) Stirring the water phase, slowly pouring the oil phase into the water phase, stirring, immediately homogenizing at 4000rpm for 5-10min, and cooling to obtain cream.
Wherein the additive solution was prepared according to the method of example 2, and prepared to contain 150mg of lactobacillus soy ferment (fermentation liquor solid) and 1.5mg of oleanolic acid per 1ml of solution.
TABLE 4 cream formulation recipe
Figure BSA0000285852610000101
Sensory evaluation
And performing sensory evaluation by referring to the current industry standard QB/T1857-2013 skin moistening cream.
Evaluation criteria: poor texture, general texture, better texture and good texture;
poor spreadability, general spreadability +, better spreadability + +, good spreadability + + +;
the feeling of heaviness is strong, the feeling of heaviness is general +, a little sense of heaviness + +, and no sense of heaviness + +;
poor uniformity-generally + with better uniformity + +, good uniformity + + +;
poor, general, better and better moistening sense + + +, good moistening sense + + +;
strong greasy feeling, general greasy feeling, slightly greasy feeling + +, no greasy feeling + + +;
TABLE 5 sensory evaluation results of cream preparation containing lactobacillus and soybean fermented liquid oleanolic acid
Figure BSA0000285852610000111
The result shows that the lactobacillus and soybean extract fermentation liquor-oleanolic acid cream prepared by the invention is yellowish in appearance, fine, smooth, glossy and moderate in hardness, is easy to pick up and apply, is comfortable in skin feel and is easy to absorb.
Microscopic topography viewing
Coating a small amount of the obtained lactobacillus and soybean extract fermentation liquor-oleanolic acid cream on a glass slide, and observing under an optical microscope. FIG. 5 is the emulsion droplet form diagram of Lactobacillus soyabean extract fermentation broth-oleanolic acid cream under optical microscope. The cream added with the lactobacillus megaterium soybean extract fermentation liquor can be found under a microscope that the added oleanolic acid is completely dissolved in the cream, and no precipitate or particulate matters are separated out. The lactobacillus and semen glycines extract fermentation liquid-oleanolic acid cream average particle diameter is 5.08 μm (figure 5-b). Under the condition of adding the same amount of insoluble active substance, the cream without adding lactobacillus and soybean extract fermentation liquor, oleanolic acid powder is not completely dissolved in the system, and a plurality of precipitates or particle groups can be clearly found under a microscope (figure 5-c). The presence of particulate matter was visually observed by applying a small amount of the cream to the back of the hand. The cream added with the lactobacillus and soybean extract fermentation liquor is smeared on the back of the hand, has no granular sensation and can not observe the existence of the granular matters by naked eyes.
Heat resistance
Weighing two 10g samples, placing one sample in a centrifuge tube, placing the other sample in a thermostat at 40 ℃ for 24h, cooling to room temperature, observing whether deterioration, layering and other phenomena exist, judging heat resistance, and recording.
After high-temperature heat-resistant treatment at 40 ℃ for 24h, the cream is not layered and no particles are precipitated, which shows that the cream has good heat resistance.
Cold resistance
Weighing two 10g samples, placing one sample in a centrifuge tube at room temperature, placing the other sample in a refrigerator at-20 ℃ for 24h, observing whether deterioration, layering and other phenomena occur after the sample is placed at room temperature, judging the cold resistance and recording.
After the low-temperature freezing treatment at the temperature of 20 ℃ below zero for 24 hours, the cream has no demixing and no particle precipitation, which shows that the cream has good cold resistance.
Centrifugal stability
Taking 5g of cream, placing in a 10mL centrifuge tube, centrifuging at 3000rpm for 40min, and observing water-oil separation.
After high-speed centrifugal treatment, the cream is not layered, which indicates that the cream has good centrifugal stability.
Therefore, the solubilizing system of the invention can ensure that the insoluble compound oleanolic acid can keep stable without precipitation and delamination under the high-temperature and low-temperature environment of the cream preparation of oleanolic acid.
EXAMPLE 5 cream containing solubilization System
The raw materials were prepared according to the recipe of table 6, and then the cream was prepared by the following steps:
1) Heating the components of the water phase to 40 ℃, fully mixing and dissolving, and keeping the temperature for later use.
2) Heating the components of the oil phase to 70-80 deg.C, mixing thoroughly and dissolving, homogenizing for 5-10min, and keeping the temperature for use.
3) Stirring the water phase, slowly pouring the oil phase into the water phase, stirring, immediately homogenizing at 4000rpm for 5-10min, and cooling to obtain cream.
Wherein the additive solution was prepared according to the method of example 2, and prepared to contain 150mg of lactobacillus soy ferment (fermentation liquor solid) and 1.2mg of oleanolic acid per 1ml of solution.
TABLE 6 cream formulation recipe
Figure BSA0000285852610000121
Example 6 emulsion containing a solubilizing System
The raw materials were prepared according to the recipe of table 7, and then an emulsion was prepared using the following steps:
1) Heating the components of the water phase to 40 ℃, fully mixing and dissolving, and keeping the temperature for later use.
2) Heating the components of the oil phase to 70-80 deg.C, mixing thoroughly and dissolving, homogenizing for 5-10min, and keeping the temperature for use.
3) Stirring the water phase, slowly pouring the oil phase into the water phase, stirring uniformly, immediately homogenizing at 4000rpm for 5-10min to obtain the emulsion.
Wherein the additive solution was prepared according to the method of example 2, and prepared to contain 150mg of lactobacillus soybean fermented product (fermentation liquid solid) and 1.2mg of oleanolic acid per 1ml of the solution.
TABLE 7 emulsion formulation recipe
Figure BSA0000285852610000131
Example 7 emulsion containing solubilizing System
The raw materials were prepared according to the recipe of table 8, and then an emulsion was prepared using the following steps:
1) Heating the components of the water phase to 40 ℃, fully mixing and dissolving, and keeping the temperature for later use.
2) Heating the components of the oil phase to 70-80 deg.C, mixing thoroughly and dissolving, homogenizing for 5-10min, and keeping the temperature for use.
3) Stirring the water phase, slowly pouring the oil phase into the water phase, stirring uniformly, immediately homogenizing at 4000rpm for 5-10min to obtain the emulsion.
Wherein the solubilization solution was prepared according to the method of example 1 to obtain a solution containing 150mg of soybean extract and 1.2mg of oleanolic acid per 1ml of the solution.
TABLE 8 emulsion formulation recipe
Figure BSA0000285852610000141
Example 8 Effect on collagen
Taking the soybean extract-oleanolic acid increasing solution and the lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation liquor-oleanolic acid increasing solution prepared in the example 1, wherein each 1ml of the solution contains 150mg of the soybean extract/lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation product (fermentation liquor solid) and 1mg of oleanolic acid. In 24-well plates according to 10 5 The individual cells were seeded at a density of human fibroblasts and cultured to a confluent volume of about 90%. The cells were cultured in serum-free DMEM medium for 24 hours and then 10 hours, respectively -4 The two booster solutions of example 1 of M were treated in serum-free medium. Then, the cells were exposed to CO 2 The culture was carried out in an incubator for 24 hours. Supernatants from each cell culture were collected and the amount of procollagen in the supernatants was tested using a procollagen type (I) ELISA kit. The values for procollagen I synthesis are expressed as a percentage of the untreated group and the results are shown in Table 9.
TABLE 9 Effect on collagen
Figure BSA0000285852610000142
The above examples are only intended to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention, but not to limit it; those of ordinary skill in the art will understand that: it can be modified from the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments, or some technical features of the technical solutions can be equivalently replaced. And such modifications or substitutions do not depart from the spirit and scope of the corresponding technical solutions, which are defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims (10)

1. The cosmetic composition containing the oleanolic acid is characterized by comprising 0.5-2.5 parts by weight of oleanolic acid and 100-200 parts by weight of lactobacillus soybean extract fermentation product which is a solid of fermentation liquor of the soybean extract fermented by lactobacillus.
2. The cosmetic composition containing the oleanolic acid is characterized by comprising an enhanced solution, wherein the enhanced solution consists of the oleanolic acid, lactobacillus soybean extract leavening and water, the concentration of the oleanolic acid is 0.05-0.25% and the concentration of the lactobacillus soybean extract leavening is 10-20% on the basis of the enhanced solution, and the lactobacillus soybean extract leavening is a solid of a leavening liquid of the soybean extract fermented by lactobacillus.
3. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the lactobacillus soy extract ferment forms an intramolecular or intermolecular hydrogen bonding association with oleanolic acid.
4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that oleanolic acid is present in the solubilising solution in soluble form.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that it does not contain emulsifiers or surfactants.
6. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the soybean extract is an aqueous soybean extract containing 5 to 15% of soybean isoflavones.
7. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the cosmetic composition is one of a moisturizer, a gel, an emulsion and a cream.
8. A cosmetic composition comprising oleanolic acid, wherein said cosmetic composition is a cream, wherein the oil phase of said cream comprises stearyl alcohol, squalane and dimethicone, and wherein the aqueous phase comprises a polyol, a thickener and a solubilizing solution according to any one of claims 1 to 2.
9. Cosmetic composition comprising oleanolic acid, wherein said cosmetic composition is an emulsion, wherein the oil phase of said emulsion comprises stearyl alcohol, jojoba oil, isopropyl palmitate and polydimethylsiloxane, and the aqueous phase comprises a polyol, a thickener and a solubiliser according to any of claims 1 to 2.
10. Use of the cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 9 for the preparation of a cosmetic for promoting collagen regeneration and reducing wrinkles.
CN202211238945.8A 2022-10-17 2022-10-17 Cosmetic composition containing oleanolic acid and application thereof Pending CN115487088A (en)

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