CN109610082A - 一种针织罗马布的制备方法 - Google Patents
一种针织罗马布的制备方法 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN109610082A CN109610082A CN201811525869.2A CN201811525869A CN109610082A CN 109610082 A CN109610082 A CN 109610082A CN 201811525869 A CN201811525869 A CN 201811525869A CN 109610082 A CN109610082 A CN 109610082A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- preparation
- cloth
- added
- yarn
- sizing
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 61
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 18
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 238000005253 cladding Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 108090000790 Enzymes Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 102000004190 Enzymes Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 33
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000009954 braiding Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000010792 warming Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 6
- PMZURENOXWZQFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Sulfate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O PMZURENOXWZQFD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000004321 preservation Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000003491 array Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000013527 degreasing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000314 lubricant Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000985 reactive dye Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000017550 sodium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052938 sodium sulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000011152 sodium sulphate Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000005457 optimization Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000032258 transport Effects 0.000 claims 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 abstract description 6
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 7
- 229940088598 enzyme Drugs 0.000 description 5
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 description 3
- 108010059892 Cellulase Proteins 0.000 description 2
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229940106157 cellulase Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 238000000855 fermentation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000004151 fermentation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000003993 interaction Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000004806 packaging method and process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 description 2
- XADCESSVHJOZHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Meperidine Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1C1(C(=O)OCC)CCN(C)CC1 XADCESSVHJOZHK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004364 calculation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007598 dipping method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007689 inspection Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011056 performance test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012805 post-processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007781 pre-processing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000002203 pretreatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010998 test method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B1/00—Applying liquids, gases or vapours onto textile materials to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing or impregnating
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/50—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with hydrogen peroxide or peroxides of metals; with persulfuric, permanganic, pernitric, percarbonic acids or their salts
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/38—Polyurethanes
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
本发明涉及一种针织罗马布的制备方法，包括：以全棉强捻40s精梳纱结合2075涤包氨包覆丝为原料进行织造，然后开幅、预汽蒸、预定型、练漂、酵素洗、染色、后整理、烘干、定型、成品，得到针织罗马布。本发明通过纱线捻度及捻向的合理选择，配合涤包氨包覆丝组合，通过合适的染整工艺，生产出来的针织罗马布克重适宜，布面挺弹，精致，是制作高级时装的素材。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于针织面料领域，特别涉及一种针织罗马布的制备方法。
背景技术
罗马布作为针织面料的一个品种，在实际生产中应用广泛。它具有纵向，横向的伸缩性，表面布纹细致，结合了双罗文组织和平纹组织的特点，厚实有弹性，布面不易鼓包。
专利CN108049011A公开了一种罗马布的制备方法，包括：(1)纱线预处理；(2)蒸汽定型；(3)采用大圆机将锦纶和氨纶编织成坯布；(4)坯布前处理；(5)染色；(6)固色处理；(7)后整理；(8)检验，打卷包装，得到罗马布。但是该专利中采用了锦纶和氨纶纱线，且在染整工艺中采用了两次练碱和固色处理，步骤繁杂，且由于多次使用碱液，易使纤维变形，导致最后的成品布收缩性差、稳定性差，从而影响罗马布质量。
专利CN107956029A公开了一种罗马布的生产工艺，包括：纱线预处理、蒸汽定型、编织成布、染色、后处理、检验和包装；其中，纱线预处理过程中，将纱线在碱液中浸泡一段时间后取出清洗干净，在浸泡池中加入水镁石粉末，将清洗后的纱线加入浸泡池中。但是该专利中采用了锦纶和氨纶纱线，且在染整工艺中采用了碱液浸泡并加入水镁石粉末，易使纤维变形，导致最后的成品布收缩性差、稳定性差，从而影响罗马布质量。
发明内容
本发明所要解决的技术问题是提供一种针织罗马布的制备方法，克服了现有工艺制得的罗马布面抗起球起毛性、收缩性及稳定性差的缺陷。
本发明的一种针织罗马布的制备方法，包括：
以全棉强捻40s精梳纱结合2075涤包氨包覆丝为原料进行织造，然后开幅、预汽蒸、预定型、练漂、酵素洗、染色、后整理、烘干、定型、成品，得到针织罗马布。
所述全棉强捻40s精梳纱的捻向为Z捻和S捻，捻度为1750T.P.M，在织造前进行预先汽蒸定型。
所述织造的纱线排列为：第一、二路编织双罗文组织；用强捻40s精梳纱Z捻，第三路上针盘编织，下针筒不编织；用2075涤包氨包覆丝，第四路下针筒编织，上盘针不编织；用强捻40s精梳纱S捻，四路组成一个完整的罗马布组织。
所述预汽蒸的工艺条件为：将织造后的毛坯布于蒸箱中100℃饱和蒸汽中连续汽蒸60min，汽蒸后的毛坯布门幅160cm。
所述预定型的工艺条件为：将汽蒸后的毛坯布于定型机上190℃定型30sec，出布门幅170cm，毛坯克重300g/m2。
所述练漂的工艺条件为：在练漂浴中加入除油剂DS-114 1.5g/l，精炼剂HK-10311g/l，整合剂S-540 0.5g/l，H2O2 4g/l，NaOH 1.5g/l，于98℃练漂45min。
所述酵素洗的工艺条件为：加入纤维素酶K-9 1.5％owf，50℃运行40sec，然后升温至80℃保温10min进行灭活。
所述染色的工艺条件为：染涤工艺：室温加入分散匀染剂DA 0.5g/l，HAC 0.5g/l，调PH值至4-4.5，升温至80℃加入分散染料，运行10min，按1℃/min速率升温至128℃，保温30min，按1.5℃/min速率降温至80℃，排液，水洗，还原清洗，水洗；染棉工艺：室温加入工艺优化剂AB-55 0.5g/l，润滑剂C 1g/l，运行5min，20min线性加入活性染料，运行5min，30min线性加入元明粉，运行5min，30min，30％递增加入纯碱，运行10min，按0.5℃/min速率升温至60℃，保温45min，排液，水洗，中和，皂洗，水洗，然后烘干。
所述定型的工艺条件：加入有机硅柔软剂SF-1 40g/l，轧余率80％，然后于160℃定型45sec。
所述针织罗马布的成品克重290g/m2，成品门幅165cm。
本发明中由于采用强捻纱为原料，故需预先对纱线进行汽蒸定型以保持纱线捻度，同时利于编织。
本发明采用的纱线组合，主要是通过Z捻，S捻两种相反的捻度纱线在同一面料上，起到相互抵消扭力，使得面料扭度为零，同时加入包覆丝，稳定布面的尺寸稳定性并获得一定的弹性。生产出来的面料，布纹清晰，紧密，无纬斜，挺弹，垂感佳。
本发明编织后的毛坯布的门幅达230cm，而成品门幅只有165cm，为了避免收缩不匀，在预定工序前增加一道预汽蒸工序，促使布面均匀收缩，控制毛坯布门幅小于成品门幅；然后预定型以获得均匀的染色效果和成品规格。
有益效果
(1)本发明在纱线织造前后进行了两次蒸汽定型，且对坯布进行了酵素洗，本发明通过纱线捻度及捻向的合理选择，配合涤包氨包覆丝组合，通过合适的染整工艺，生产出来的针织罗马布克重适宜，布面挺弹，精致，是制作高级时装的素材。
(2)本发明制得的罗马布表面干净无毛羽，布纹清晰，微弹，抗起毛起球性能好，缩水率，尺寸稳定性都符合针织外衣要求，同时由于Z.S捻纱线的相互作用，扭度，纬斜均很好，克重适宜制作时装，极具高档感。
附图说明
图1为本发明的针织罗马布的照片。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例，进一步阐述本发明。应理解，这些实施例仅用于说明本发明而不用于限制本发明的范围。此外应理解，在阅读了本发明讲授的内容之后，本领域技术人员可以对本发明作各种改动或修改，这些等价形式同样落于本申请所附权利要求书所限定的范围。
实施例1
本实施例提供一种针织罗马布的制备方法，包括：
原料选用全棉强捻40s精梳纱(山东宏杰公司)，Z捻，S捻，捻度为1750T.P.M，2075涤包氨包覆丝(宁波德威公司)。织造机选用德国德乐公司生产的I3P284机型，规格34"*24G*2976N，进纱路数为96F。
织造工艺：
纱线排列：第一、二路编织双罗文组织，用40s精梳强捻纱(Z捻)，第三路上针盘编织(下针筒不编织)，用2075涤轮包覆丝，第四路下针筒编织(上盘针不编织)，用40s精梳强捻纱(S捻)，四路组成一个完整的罗马布组织。
染整工艺：
工艺路线：开幅----预汽蒸----预定型----练漂----酵素洗----染色----后整理----烘干----定型----成品。
预汽蒸工艺：将编织后的毛坯布于蒸箱中100℃饱和蒸汽中连续汽蒸60min，汽蒸后的毛坯布门幅160cm。
预定型工艺：将汽蒸后的毛坯布于定型机上190℃定型30sec，出布门幅170cm，毛坯克重300g/m2。
练漂工艺：在练漂浴中加入除油剂DS-114(广东德美化工有限公司)1.5g/l，精炼剂HK-1031(宁波华科助剂有限公司)1g/l，整合剂S-540(宁波华科助剂有限公司)0.5g/l，H2O2 4g/l，NaOH 1.5g/l，于98℃练漂45min。
酵素洗工艺：加入纤维素酶K-9(宁波波雅塔贸易有限公司)1.5％owf，50℃运行40sec，然后升温至80℃保温10min进行灭活。
染色工艺：染涤工艺：室温加入分散匀染剂DA(宁波波雅塔贸易有限公司)0.5g/l，HAC 0.5g/l，调PH值至4-4.5，升温至80℃加入分散染料，运行10min，按1℃/min速率升温至128℃，保温30min，按1.5℃/min速率降温至80℃，排液，水洗，还原清洗，水洗；染棉工艺：室温加入工艺优化剂AB-55(亨斯迈公司)0.5g/l，润滑剂C(亨斯迈公司)1g/l，运行5min，加入活性染料(20min线性加入)，运行5min，加入元明粉(30min线性加入)，运行5min，30min，加入纯碱(30％递增加入)，运行10min，按0.5℃/min速率升温至60℃，保温45min，排液，水洗，中和，皂洗，水洗，然后烘干。
定型工艺：加入有机硅柔软剂SF-1(宁波联化有限公司)40g/l，轧余率80％，然后在定型机上160℃定型45sec，成品克重290g/m2，成品门幅165cm。
缩水率测试：将本实施制得的针织罗马布洗涤，分别测量洗涤前后的经向和纬向尺寸，计算经向、纬向缩水率在正负3％以内，说明尺寸稳定性良好。
抗起毛起球性能测试：按照GB/T 4802.1-2008《织物起毛起球性能的测定第1部分：圆轨迹法》对处理前后织物进行起毛起球测试，具体评价方法如下：
5级：无变化。
4级：表面轻微起毛和(或)轻微起球。
3级：表面中度起毛和(或)中度起球，不同大小和密度的球覆盖试样的部分表面。
2级：表面明显起毛和(或)起球，不同大小和密度的球覆盖试样的大部分表面。
1级：表面严重起毛和(或)起球，不同大小和密度的球覆盖试样的整个表面。
测试结果表明，经过本发明方法处理得到的织物的抗起毛起球性能可达到5级。
弹性测试：闭目触摸所得面料，以20人为一小组，进行评级，根据不同的手感将面料进行手感评定，具体评价及表示方法如下：
◎非常柔软，富有弹性。
○柔软，有较好弹性。
▽较柔软，还具有动物纤维或其织物的部分弹性。
×手感明显干涩，基本没有弹性。
测试结果如表1所示，可知本实施例制得的织物的手感柔软舒适，有较好弹性。
表1弹性测试结果
扭斜性测试：按照GB/T 23319.2-2009《洗涤后扭斜的测定第2部分：机织物和针织物》，计算处理前后织物的扭曲率为1.5％，属于优等品级别，证明面料扭度，纬斜均很好。
综上可知，本实施例制得的针织罗马布，表面干净无毛羽，布纹清晰，微弹，抗起毛起球性能好，缩水率，尺寸稳定性都符合针织外衣要求，同时由于Z.S捻纱线的相互作用，扭度，纬斜均很好，290g/m2克重适宜制作时装，极具高档感。
Claims (10)
1.一种针织罗马布的制备方法，包括：
以全棉强捻40s精梳纱结合2075涤包氨包覆丝为原料进行织造，然后开幅、预汽蒸、预定型、练漂、酵素洗、染色、后整理、烘干、定型、成品，得到针织罗马布。
2.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述全棉强捻40s精梳纱的捻向为Z捻和S捻，捻度为1750T.P.M，在织造前进行预先汽蒸定型。
3.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述织造的纱线排列为：第一、二路编织双罗文组织；用强捻40s精梳纱Z捻，第三路上针盘编织，下针筒不编织；用2075涤包氨包覆丝，第四路下针筒编织，上盘针不编织；用强捻40s精梳纱S捻，四路组成一个完整的罗马布组织。
4.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述预汽蒸的工艺条件为：将织造后的毛坯布于蒸箱中100℃饱和蒸汽中连续汽蒸60min，汽蒸后的毛坯布门幅160cm。
5.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述预定型的工艺条件为：将汽蒸后的毛坯布于定型机上190℃定型30sec，出布门幅170cm，毛坯克重300g/m2。
6.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述练漂的工艺条件为：在练漂浴中加入除油剂DS-114 1.5g/l，精炼剂HK-1031 1g/l，整合剂S-540 0.5g/l，H2O2 4g/l，NaOH1.5g/l，于98℃练漂45min。
7.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述酵素洗的工艺条件为：加入纤维素酶K-9 1.5％owf，50℃运行40sec，然后升温至80℃保温10min进行灭活。
8.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述染色的工艺条件为：染涤工艺：室温加入分散匀染剂DA 0.5g/l，HAC 0.5g/l，调PH值至4-4.5，升温至80℃加入分散染料，运行10min，按1℃/min速率升温至128℃，保温30min，按1.5℃/min速率降温至80℃，排液，水洗，还原清洗，水洗；染棉工艺：室温加入工艺优化剂AB-55 0.5g/l，润滑剂C 1g/l，运行5min，20min线性加入活性染料，运行5min，30min线性加入元明粉，运行5min，30min，30％递增加入纯碱，运行10min，按0.5℃/min速率升温至60℃，保温45min，排液，水洗，中和，皂洗，水洗，然后烘干。
9.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述定型的工艺条件：加入有机硅柔软剂SF-1 40g/l，轧余率80％，然后于160℃定型45sec。
10.根据权利要求1所述的制备方法，其特征在于：所述针织罗马布的成品克重290g/m2，成品门幅165cm。
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811525869.2A CN109610082A (zh) | 2018-12-13 | 2018-12-13 | 一种针织罗马布的制备方法 |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811525869.2A CN109610082A (zh) | 2018-12-13 | 2018-12-13 | 一种针织罗马布的制备方法 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN109610082A true CN109610082A (zh) | 2019-04-12 |
Family
ID=66008531
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201811525869.2A Pending CN109610082A (zh) | 2018-12-13 | 2018-12-13 | 一种针织罗马布的制备方法 |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN109610082A (zh) |
Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN110172839A (zh) * | 2019-06-28 | 2019-08-27 | 广州市晟宏衬布有限公司 | 一种新型高弹性衬布的制作方法 |
| CN111411442A (zh) * | 2020-04-01 | 2020-07-14 | 无锡市红博面料馆有限公司 | 一种罗马布及其制作方法 |
| CN112746420A (zh) * | 2020-12-04 | 2021-05-04 | 湖北际华针织有限公司 | 一种针织涤棉夹层双面布抗起毛起球4级的染整工艺 |
| CN112593335B (zh) * | 2020-12-17 | 2024-03-01 | 上海三枪（集团）有限公司 | 一种长绒棉紧捻纱聚酯纤维交织面料 |
Citations (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2000129560A (ja) * | 1998-10-23 | 2000-05-09 | Unitika Ltd | 長短複合紡績糸使用編物の製造方法 |
| CN1310254A (zh) * | 2000-02-24 | 2001-08-29 | 上海针织九厂 | 强捻纱仿麻纬编织物的生产方法 |
| CN103361868A (zh) * | 2013-06-26 | 2013-10-23 | 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 | 一种强拉伸回复性的氨纶罗马布及其制备方法 |
| CN106968046A (zh) * | 2017-03-09 | 2017-07-21 | 江苏金辰针纺织有限公司 | 一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料 |
| CN108049011A (zh) * | 2017-12-19 | 2018-05-18 | 绍兴柯桥杰坝针纺科技有限公司 | 一种罗马布的制备方法 |
| CN108570753A (zh) * | 2018-04-24 | 2018-09-25 | 绍兴锦强针纺有限公司 | 一种罗马布及其制备方法 |
| CN208133736U (zh) * | 2018-02-06 | 2018-11-23 | 绍兴市博洋针纺有限公司 | 一种新型高弹性罗马布 |
| CN108914349A (zh) * | 2018-09-06 | 2018-11-30 | 特步(中国)有限公司 | 一种罗马布及其制作方法 |
-
2018
- 2018-12-13 CN CN201811525869.2A patent/CN109610082A/zh active Pending
Patent Citations (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2000129560A (ja) * | 1998-10-23 | 2000-05-09 | Unitika Ltd | 長短複合紡績糸使用編物の製造方法 |
| CN1310254A (zh) * | 2000-02-24 | 2001-08-29 | 上海针织九厂 | 强捻纱仿麻纬编织物的生产方法 |
| CN103361868A (zh) * | 2013-06-26 | 2013-10-23 | 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 | 一种强拉伸回复性的氨纶罗马布及其制备方法 |
| CN106968046A (zh) * | 2017-03-09 | 2017-07-21 | 江苏金辰针纺织有限公司 | 一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料 |
| CN108049011A (zh) * | 2017-12-19 | 2018-05-18 | 绍兴柯桥杰坝针纺科技有限公司 | 一种罗马布的制备方法 |
| CN208133736U (zh) * | 2018-02-06 | 2018-11-23 | 绍兴市博洋针纺有限公司 | 一种新型高弹性罗马布 |
| CN108570753A (zh) * | 2018-04-24 | 2018-09-25 | 绍兴锦强针纺有限公司 | 一种罗马布及其制备方法 |
| CN108914349A (zh) * | 2018-09-06 | 2018-11-30 | 特步(中国)有限公司 | 一种罗马布及其制作方法 |
Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN110172839A (zh) * | 2019-06-28 | 2019-08-27 | 广州市晟宏衬布有限公司 | 一种新型高弹性衬布的制作方法 |
| CN111411442A (zh) * | 2020-04-01 | 2020-07-14 | 无锡市红博面料馆有限公司 | 一种罗马布及其制作方法 |
| CN112746420A (zh) * | 2020-12-04 | 2021-05-04 | 湖北际华针织有限公司 | 一种针织涤棉夹层双面布抗起毛起球4级的染整工艺 |
| CN112593335B (zh) * | 2020-12-17 | 2024-03-01 | 上海三枪（集团）有限公司 | 一种长绒棉紧捻纱聚酯纤维交织面料 |
Similar Documents
| Publication | Publication Date | Title |
|---|---|---|
| CN109610082A (zh) | 一种针织罗马布的制备方法 | |
| CN102943341B (zh) | 吸湿快干抗菌面料及其制备方法 | |
| CN103361868B (zh) | 一种强拉伸回复性的氨纶罗马布及其制备方法 | |
| CN102767083B (zh) | 一种免烫服装面料的加工方法 | |
| CN108411473B (zh) | 一种改进的变色立体面料及其制作方法 | |
| CN104790092B (zh) | 一种丝毛织物及其制备方法 | |
| CN103382596B (zh) | 一种多色彩节仿麻织物的制备方法 | |
| CN102534934A (zh) | 一种棉乔其提花面料及其加工工艺 | |
| CN106435920A (zh) | 多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织的大提花家纺面料的制备方法 | |
| CN103654002A (zh) | 一种月亮弯交织毛毯制造工艺 | |
| CN102071523A (zh) | 一种弱捻纱针织面料的加工方法 | |
| CN106087215B (zh) | 一种仿毛呢彩色针织面料及其制备方法 | |
| CN104762740A (zh) | 一种绢丝棉混纺色织丝光针织面料的生产工艺 | |
| CN107022836A (zh) | 一种经编纯棉超柔面料的制备工艺 | |
| CN105274702A (zh) | 一种汉麻棉与莱维尔纤维纱组合面料的加工方法 | |
| CN109487472A (zh) | 一种全棉高支强捻针织双面布的制备方法 | |
| CN106987976A (zh) | 一种弹性保暖机织面料的织造方法 | |
| CN103469457A (zh) | 一种用于t恤衫中的高档针织面料的制备方法 | |
| CN105919167A (zh) | 一种高强防勒痕透气袜的生产工艺 | |
| CN107663695A (zh) | 一种高强聚乙烯黏胶仿色织格子面料的生产工艺 | |
| CN108301162A (zh) | 一种绢丝棉混纺色织丝光针织面料的生产工艺 | |
| CN214115841U (zh) | 一种纬纱采用舒弹丝混纺纱的牛仔面料 | |
| CN108797139A (zh) | 一种高导湿透气仿棉经编运动面料及其生产工艺 | |
| CN111519315B (zh) | 一种纵向摺纹织物及其制作方法 | |
| CN114164672A (zh) | 一种新型面料及其制备工艺 |
Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| RJ01 | Rejection of invention patent application after publication | ||
| RJ01 | Rejection of invention patent application after publication |
Application publication date: 20190412 |