CN106968046A - 一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料 - Google Patents

一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料 Download PDF

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CN106968046A
CN106968046A CN201710137044.2A CN201710137044A CN106968046A CN 106968046 A CN106968046 A CN 106968046A CN 201710137044 A CN201710137044 A CN 201710137044A CN 106968046 A CN106968046 A CN 106968046A
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cool feeling
cotton
yarn
uvioresistant
fabric
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殷金华
金雪
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JIANGSU GOLDEN MORNING KNITTING CO Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其为采用捻度超过2200捻/m的冰棉纱与混纺纱交织而成双面珠地网眼结构,所述混纺纱为具有凉感和抗紫外功能的

Description

一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料 【技术领域】
[0001] 本发明涉及一种面料,特别是涉及一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料。 【背景技术】
[0002] 目前,关于凉爽纤维的素材因应环保的议题,在市场上大量推广。市场上凉感面料 品种繁多,主要是化纤类凉感面料,如涤纶、尼龙等,原理基本是纤维通过物理或化学改性、 或者将以上两种方式结合。物理改性主要为在化纤纺丝过程中添加纳米级矿石粉,如 Flycool·®、X-cool®、Wincool®等。化学改性主要通过亲水改性,结合异形截面等物理 改性,使面料具有迅速吸收汗液、扩散体热,加速汗水排散与降低体温之作用,持久保持织 物凉爽与舒适之功能,如Supercool®、Coo〗max®'等。物理和化学改进相结合的,如金辉 的爽丽M®(Pliyscool®)、远东的TopCool+®等。使用化纤类织物开发凉感功能的产品 已较普遍,但由于棉类织物毛羽较多,热量不易散发,使得很难产生凉感功能,因此使用棉 类织物开发凉感功能的产品相对较少,导致凉感类面料价格居高不下,应用范围和使用人 群受到限制。
[0003] 因此,有必要提供一种新的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料来解决上述问题。 【发明内容】
[0004] 本发明的主要目的在于提供一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,具有速干、凉感、抗紫外 多重功能,且经济性好。
[0005] 本发明通过如下技术方案实现上述目的:一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其为采用 捻度超过2200捻/m的冰棉纱与混纺纱交织而成双面珠地网眼结构,所述混纺纱为具有凉感 和抗紫外功能的Pentas®ot涤纶与亚麻采用环锭纺方式形成的混纺纱,所述冰棉纱在编织 成坯布前经过两次蒸洗过程,所述冰棉纱与所述混纺纱在定型过程中添加有凉感助剂,所 述冰棉纱采用S捻与Z捻的搭配方式来平衡扭力。
[0006] 进一步的,所述Pentas®cx涤纟仑克重为18.45tex,所述混纺纱中的所述Pentas®a 涤纶与所述亚麻的混纺比为80/20。
[0007] 进一步的,所述Pentas®cx涤纶采用的是日本东丽TORAY公司生产的Pentas(S)Cx涤 纶。
[0008] 进一步的,所述冰棉纱的克重16.9tex,所述冰棉纱采用的是瑞士SP0ERRY公司生 产的ICE COTTON®纱线。
[0009] 进一步的,所述棉针织面料经过以下加工方法制造而成,
[0010] 1)编织工艺,其包括设计组织结构、织针排列方式、三角排列图、编织图,确定穿纱 方式,所述蒸洗,最后编织成还布;
[0011] 2)染整工艺,其包括前处理、染色以及定型。
[0012] 进一步的,在所述编织工艺中,所述棉针织面料中贴近皮肤面的一面为所述冰棉 纱。
[0013] 进一步的,在所述前处理过程中,将所述坯布分别依次经过氧漂、一次酸洗以及水 洗工艺处理。
[0014] 进一步的,在所述染色过程中,将经过所述前处理后的坯布依次进行酵素洗工艺 和二次酸洗工艺。
[0015] 进一步的,所述酵素洗工艺包括染涤工序和染棉工序;所述染涤工序使用的溶液 中含有分散染料2.0 % (owf)、分散均染剂I. Og/L以及Na2S〇43. Og/L;所述染棉工序中使用的 溶液中含有冰醋酸(85%)0.28/1、纤柔酶1.(^/1、活性染料2.2%(〇#)、他25〇45(^/1、 Na2C〇3l5g/L,控制浴比为1:10,温度为60°C,酵素洗时间为30min;整个染色过程中,温度上 升速率控制在I.OtVmin以下。
[0016] 进一步的,所述凉感助剂为冰感硅油柔软剂或者木糖醇微胶囊。
[0017] 与现有技术相比,本发明一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料及其控制方法的有益效果在 于:在原料选择上、加工工艺以及编织结构上开发了新的凉感抗紫外棉织类面料,是一款速 干、凉感、抗紫外的多功能于一体的功能性面料;具体的,
[0018] 1)在原料上,一方面采用含Pentas®{x:涤纶的混纺纱保证了织物功能持久、耐水洗 和耐熨烫,提高了夏季户外运动装的穿着耐久性,另一方面结合冰棉纱,进一步的提高了面 料的凉感功能,且综合了冰棉纱的强捻度和Pentas^tr^纶的高柔软度,提高了面料的肌肤 贴附感;
[0019] 2)在加工工艺上,在编织成坯布前,将冰棉纱经过两次蒸洗,防止了编织过程中退 捻发生,保证了冰棉纱的强捻度,进而保证了面料的凉感功能;采用酵素洗工艺,减少了面 料布面毛羽,提高了光洁度;将涤纶染色和棉纤维染色分开进行,使得面料色泽更亮,色度 更高且色度耐持久性强;
[0020] 3)将两种纱线设计成双珠地网眼结构,然后在定型中加入冰感的柔软剂,提高了 面料的穿着舒适感。 【具体实施方式】
[0021] 实施例:
[0022] 本实施例为凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其为采用捻度超过2200捻/m的冰棉纱与混纺 纱交织而成双面珠地网眼结构,所述混纺纱为具有凉感和抗紫外功能的Pentas⑩ot涤纶与 亚麻采用环锭纺方式形成的混纺纱,所述棉针织面料中的所述冰棉纱采用S捻与Z捻的搭配 方式来平衡扭力。
[0023] 所述_P__enta_s.®0!;涤给克重为I8.45tex,所述Pentas® α涤给与所述亚麻的混纺比 为80/20,所述冰棉纱的克重16.9tex。所述Pentas⑥α涤纶是日本东丽TORAY公司生产的 Pentas®a涤纶,所述冰棉纱是瑞士 spoerry公司生产的ICE COTTCM®纱线。
[0024] 所述冰棉纱的原理为采取精选长绒棉花,通过特殊纺纱方式以较高的捻度进行加 捻,让棉纱光滑少毛羽,同时使纱线或布料的棉纱里面没有空气包形成的机会,不会产生茸 茸的温暖感。
[0025] 所述PemasQkx涤纶的原料纤维截面为扁平多叶状,比普通产品约四倍的速度快 速吸水,扩散性提高约30 %。同时Pentas®a涤纶是一种在原有的吸水扩散功能基础上又综 合追求各种适合夏季舒爽功能的素材,具有各种应对高温季节、强烈阳光的特性,拥有柔软 手感,即使在炎热的季节也能让穿着者感到凉爽舒适的功能性涤纶纤维。Pentas®a纤维的 特点有吸湿速干、防透/防紫外线、持续凉爽性、手感柔软。
[0026] 所述棉针织面料经过以下加工方法制造而成:
[0027] 1)编织工艺,其包括以下步骤:
[0028] A设计组织结构:为使面料具有舒适性和凉感功能,并降低成本,选用双面组织结 构,其中贴近皮肤面的为所述冰棉纱;
[0029] B设计织针排列方式;
[0030] C设计三角排列图;
[0031] D设计编织图;
[0032] E确定穿纱方式;
[0033] F蒸洗:由于所述冰棉纱为高捻纱,为了防止编织过程中出现退捻问题,将所述冰 棉纱先蒸洗两次。
[0034] G编织成布:选用双面圆炜机将所述冰棉纱与含Pentas®a.涤纶的所述混纺纱编织 成坯布,所述双面圆炜机的针数为28针。
[0035] 2)染整工艺:在染整过程中采用丝光处理或一般的酵素洗加工,使布面更光洁、凉 感效果更佳,同时在染缸内适当添加亲水性柔软剂,可提高穿着舒适性,具体的包括以下步 骤:
[0036] H前处理:将所述坯布分别依次经过氧漂、一次酸洗以及水洗工艺处理,所述氧漂 工艺处理中使用的氧漂溶液中含有精炼剂2.5g/L、精炼乳化剂I. Og/L、烧碱4.5g/L、双氧水 H2〇24g/L、去油纱剂0.6g/L,控制浴比为1:10,温度为95°C,漂洗时间为40min;所述一次酸洗 工艺使用的酸洗溶液中含有冰醋酸(85%) 0.5g/L,控制浴比为1:10,温度为60°C,酸洗时间 为IOmin;所述水洗工艺用的水洗溶液中含有除氧酶0. lg/L,控制浴比为1:10,温度为30°C, 水洗时间为20min。
[0037] I染色:由于丝光处理工艺价格较高,且对于克重较轻的布种在丝光过程中易受力 不均造成左中右克重不一,因此,在染色工艺中,本实施例采用酵素洗工艺,将经过前处理 后的所述坯布依次进行酵素洗工艺和二次酸洗工艺,所述酵素洗工艺包括染涤工序和染棉 工序;所述酵素洗工艺中染涤工序使用的溶液中含有分散染料2.0% (owf)、分散均染剂 I. 〇g/L以及Na2S〇43. Og/L。所述染棉工序中使用的溶液中含有冰醋酸(85%) 0.2g/L、纤柔酶 1.0g/L、活性染料2.2% (owf)、Na2S〇450g/L、Na2C0315g/L,控制浴比为 1:10,温度为60°C,酵 素洗时间为30min;所述二次酸洗工艺中使用的酸洗溶液中含有冰醋酸(85%)0.5g/L,控制 浴比为1:10,温度为25°C,酸洗时间为IOmin。整个染色过程中,温度上升速率控制在1.0°C/ min以下,以保证面料的上色率和匀染性,同时为了保证面料色牢度,碱类固色剂应分多批 加入,并加强水洗,减少浮色。
[0038] J定型:由于所述冰棉纱捻度较高,织物手感偏硬,因此为了保证面料穿着舒适性, 在定型过程中加入凉感助剂,如冰感硅油柔软剂或者木糖醇微胶囊,一方面增加面料的凉 感和柔性,克服了强捻纱的偏硬手感;另一方面又保证了面料的吸湿性,定型温度为140°C, 速度为20m/min。
[0039] 为了进一步验证本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料的性能优势,对本实施例的面料 进行了性能检测,其基本性能如表1-4所示。
[0040] 本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料的基本性能如表1所示。
[0041] 表1凉感抗紫外棉针织面料的基本性能
[0042]
Figure CN106968046AD00061
[0043] 注:抗起毛起球测试采用GB/T4802.1-2008 (圆轨迹法)。
[0044] 本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料的吸湿速干性能如表2所示。
[0045] 表2吸湿速干性能
Figure CN106968046AD00062
[0047]目前纺织品的抗紫外能力测试主要是抗紫外线防护指数UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor),其UPF是一种倍数观念,例如人受阳光照射,皮肤因而产生红斑的时 间如果是lOmin,穿上UPF20的衣服,产生红斑的时间可以延长为20倍,达200min。
[0048] 本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料的抗紫外线功能试验采用GB/T 18830-2009测试 标准,测试结果见表3所示。
[0049] 表3抗紫外线测试结果
Figure CN106968046AD00063
[0051] 本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料(记作面料1)与对比样(记作面料2)就凉感性能 测试(测试温度34.8±0.3°C,RH27±3%)的测试结果见表4所示。
[0052] 表4凉感测试面料温度变化
[0053]
Figure CN106968046AD00064
[0054]
Figure CN106968046AD00071
[0055] 本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,吸湿速干性测试:芯吸高度130mm (FZ/T 01071-2008)、滴水扩散时间1.4S和蒸发速率0.27 ®B/T21655.1-2008)吸湿速干功能佳,满足了消 费者夏季吸汗速干的功能需求。同时该面料经测试抗紫外:T (UVA)平均值1. 11,UPF值>50 (GB/T 18830-2009)抗UV效果佳,且凉感测试面料与同规格常规面料比,凉感温差可达2-3 °C,满足了抗紫外线、凉感的穿着舒适性。通过对多种功能的综合运用,给夏季户外运动者 带来了舒爽的穿着体验。
[0056] 本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料在原料选择上、加工工艺以及编织结构上开发了 新的凉感抗紫外棉织类面料,是一款速干、凉感、抗紫外的多功能于一体的功能性面料;具 体的,
[0057] 1)在原料上,一方面采用Pentas®a涤纶保证了织物功能持久、耐水洗和耐熨烫, 提高了夏季户外运动装的穿着耐久性,另一方面结合冰棉纱,进一步的提高了面料的凉感 功能,且综合了冰棉纱的强捻度和Pentes®a涤纶的高柔软度,提高了面料的肌肤贴附感;
[0058] 2)在加工工艺上,在编织成坯布前,将冰棉纱经过两次蒸洗,防止了编织过程中退 捻发生,保证了冰棉纱的强捻度,进而保证了面料的凉感功能;采用酵素洗工艺,减少了面 料布面毛羽,提高了光洁度;将涤纶染色和棉纤维染色分开进行,使得面料色泽更亮,色度 更高且色度耐持久性强;
[0059] 3)将两种纱线设计成双珠地网眼结构,然后在定型中加入冰感的柔软剂,提高了 面料的穿着舒适感。
[0060] 以上所述的仅是本发明的一些实施方式。对于本领域的普通技术人员来说,在不 脱离本发明创造构思的前提下,还可以做出若干变形和改进,这些都属于本发明的保护范 围。

Claims (10)

1. 一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其特征在于:其为采用捻度超过2200捻/m的冰棉纱与混纺纱交织而成双面珠地网眼结构,所述混纺纱为具有凉感和抗紫外功能的Pentas⑨α涤纶与亚麻采用环锭纺方式形成的混纺纱,所述冰棉纱在编织成坯布前经过两次蒸洗过程,所述冰棉纱与所述混纺纱在定型过程中添加有凉感助剂,所述冰棉纱采用S捻与Z捻的搭配方式来平衡扭力。
2. 如权利要求1所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其特征在于:所述Pentas®«涤纶克重为18.45tex,所述混纺纱中的所述Pentas®(X洚纟仑与所述亚麻的混纺比为80/20。
3. 如权利要求1所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其特征在于:所述Pentas®〇L涤纶采用的是日本东丽TORAY公司生产的Pentas⑩Gi涤给。
4. 如权利要求1所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其特征在于:所述冰棉纱的克重16.9tex,所述冰棉纱采用的是瑞士 SP0ERRY公司生产的ICECOTTON®纱线。
5. 如权利要求1所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其特征在于:所述棉针织面料经过以下加工方法制造而成, 1) 编织工艺,其包括设计组织结构、织针排列方式、三角排列图、编织图,确定穿纱方式,所述蒸洗,最后编织成还布; 2) 染整工艺,其包括前处理、染色以及定型。
6. 如权利要求5所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其特征在于:在所述编织工艺中,所述棉针织面料中贴近皮肤面的一面为所述冰棉纱。
7. 如权利要求5所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其特征在于:在所述前处理过程中,将所述坯布分别依次经过氧漂、一次酸洗以及水洗工艺处理。
8. 如权利要求7所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其特征在于:在所述染色过程中,将经过所述前处理后的坯布依次进行酵素洗工艺和二次酸洗工艺。
9. 如权利要求8所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其特征在于:所述酵素洗工艺包括染涤工序和染棉工序;所述染涤工序使用的溶液中含有分散染料2.0% (owf)、分散均染剂I .Og/L以及Na2SO4 3.0g/L;所述染棉工序中使用的溶液中含有冰醋酸(85%)0.2g/L、纤柔酶1.(^/1、活性染料2.2%(〇¥幻、恥23〇4 5(^/1、恥20)3158/1,控制浴比为1:10,温度为60°(:,酵素洗时间为30min;整个染色过程中,温度上升速率控制在I.(TC/min以下。
10. 如权利要求1所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料,其特征在于:所述凉感助剂为冰感硅油柔软剂或者木糖醇微胶囊。
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