CN109501426A - 3d立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法 - Google Patents

3d立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法 Download PDF

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CN109501426A
CN109501426A CN201811245831.XA CN201811245831A CN109501426A CN 109501426 A CN109501426 A CN 109501426A CN 201811245831 A CN201811245831 A CN 201811245831A CN 109501426 A CN109501426 A CN 109501426A
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fabric
desizing
vertical bar
production method
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CN109501426B (zh
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吴志辉
何诗传
张桂忠
黎翊
蔡华锌
黄洪青
周辉雨
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JINJIANG WANXINGLONG DYEING AND FINISHING CO Ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,属于纺织染整技术领域。所述3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法的制作方法包括坯布织造→检验→配布→退浆→溢流染色→真空吸水→泼水定型→中检→3D发泡→复合TPU黑膜。通过本发明的坯布织造工艺使面料呈现竖条纹的同时,纬向可以保持很好的弹性和回复性,再通过退浆、染色、真空吸水、泼水定型后可以使面料呈现微皱感,3D发泡使面料局部具有3D立体效果,最后再通过复合TPU黑膜,不仅可以使3D图案更均匀,还可以赋予面料优异的防水防风效果。

Description

3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法
技术领域
本发明属于纺织染整技术领域,具体涉及一种3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法。
背景技术
早期人们通过植绒工艺,可以在面料背面形成立体感,但是植绒工艺易掉毛,而且甲醛易超标,此外因硬度不足面料的立体感会较差。现有的具有立体感的化纤面料是通过大提花织造设备织造出立体感图案,或通过压花压褶设备高压而形成立体感图案,而采用以上两种工艺制作的面料存在以下不足:第一:织造立体感大提花面料的起订量大,生产周期较长,不利于企业发展生存;第二:压花与压褶制作立体感面料,由于压花过程需要高温进行,高温压花会造成布面发亮,导致面料档次不高;第三:大提花立体面料与压花压褶面料的立体效果仍不够理想。现有的泡泡皱立体面料虽然具有较好的立体感,但是其防水防风效果不佳。
因此开发一种立体感强且防水防风效果好的优质泡泡皱面料,已成为本领域亟待解决的技术难题。
发明内容
本发明的目的是克服现有技术的不足而提供一种3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,用该方法制得的3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料具有很强的立体感,且具有良好的防水性和耐摩擦性。
本发明采用如下技术方案:
3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,包括如下步骤:
步骤一、坯布织造、检验;
步骤二、配布;
步骤三、退浆:坯布退卷后,经长车退浆,温度90-97℃,车速25-35M/min,轧车压力1.5-2.5kg,退浆液包括按照水量计的如下组分:片碱35-45g/L、退浆剂10-15g/L、去油乳化剂8-12g/L、渗透剂2-8g/L,退浆完成后测试退浆效果;
步骤四、溢流染色:按照织物质量计,将3.5%-4%的分散大黑(染料力份200%)、1%-2%的分散红(染料力份100%)、0.5%-1%的分散兰(染料力份100%)、6%-7%的匀染剂和 0.5%-0.8%的冰醋酸充分搅匀,浴比1:10,将退浆后的坯布进入染缸进行染色;染色后取样对色,对色后进行还原洗;
步骤五、真空吸水;
步骤六、泼水定型:按照水量计,将泼水剂25-35g/L、亲水柔软剂2-7g/L、冰醋酸0.05-0.15g/L用水稀释混合均匀,置于料槽,将真空吸水后的坯布经料槽润湿后经轧车充分挤压,压力2-3kg,经烘箱干燥、经冷却辊冷却;后测试防水效果,比较手感。
步骤七、中检:检验经泼水定型后的面料是否有瑕疵,将无瑕疵的面料送至下一个工序;
步骤八、3D发泡:将水性发泡胶印在面料上形成花纹,经高温烘干,水性发泡胶收缩形成立体形状;
步骤九、复合TPU黑膜:50℃~60℃,将水性热熔胶通过热熔胶机刮涂在TPU黑膜上,经大轮将步骤八所得面料和TPU黑膜贴合,放置10-15h后,即得所述3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料。
更进一步地,步骤一所述坯布织造包括织物设计、整经、上浆、并经、穿综打筘和织布,其中坯布由两种经纱和一种纬纱织造而成,所述两种经纱为:75D涤纶半光低弹和75D涤纶仿T400,所述纬纱为75D涤纶仿T400。
更进一步地,步骤一所述上浆时使用的浆料为聚乙烯醇PVA2088。
更进一步地,步骤三所述退浆剂为申请人配制的Z-9退浆剂,所述去油乳化剂为申请人配制的Z-22去油乳化剂,所述渗透剂为得宝JFC-31渗透剂。
更进一步地,步骤三所述退浆完成后测试退浆效果具体为:按照织物质量计,用质量浓度为3%的阳离子翠蓝(染料力份100%)染液浸泡退浆后的面料5min,取出坯布查看布面效果是否均匀。
更进一步地,步骤四中所述染色时的升温曲线为:3.5-4.5℃/min升温至75-85℃,1.5-2.5 ℃/min升温至105-115℃,0.5-1.5℃/min升温至130-140℃,恒温55-65min进行染色。
更进一步地,步骤四中所述还原洗具体为:将对色后的面料用还原液进行还原洗,进行还原洗时按照3-5℃/min的升温速率升温至80-90℃,再恒温20min;按照质量百分比计,所述还原液包括2%-3%的保险粉、0.2%-0.8%的烧碱,余量为水。还原洗可以赋予织物良好的色牢度。
更进一步地,步骤六所述干燥时的工艺参数为:温度*速度*风量*超喂为170℃ *30M/min*1000m3/h*4%。
更进一步地,步骤八所述水性发泡胶为聚氨脂发泡胶,厂家创博化工、水性发泡胶的涂印量为40克/平方米,所述高温烘干时的温度为165-175℃。
更进一步地,步骤九所述水性热熔胶为PES热熔胶,厂家建阳化工,粘接强度为2.0-2.51g/25mm,洗后粘度更好。水性热熔胶的刮涂量为6克/平方米。
本发明与现有技术相比,具有以下有益效果:
通过本发明的坯布织造工艺使面料呈现竖条纹的同时,纬向可以保持很好的弹性和回复性,再通过退浆、染色、真空吸水、泼水定型后可以使面料呈现微皱感,3D发泡使面料局部具有3D立体效果,最后再通过复合TPU黑膜,不仅可以使3D图案更均匀,还可以赋予面料优异的防水防风效果。
附图说明
图1是本发明的组织结构图。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体实施方式对本发明作进一步详细说明,但本领域技术人员将会理解,下列实施例仅用于说明本发明,而不应视为限定本发明的范围。
生产坯布的经纱有2种,甲纱是:75D涤纶半光低弹,乙纱是:75D涤纶仿T400,纬纱1种,为75D涤纶仿T400。
本发明所述退浆剂优选退浆剂Z-9包括按照质量百分比计的如下组分:仲烷基磺酸钠5%、异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚(9EO)8%、聚丙烯酸钠30%、余量为去离子水。制作工艺如下:在反应釜中投入计量好的去离子水,升温至85-90℃,投入仲烷基磺酸钠和异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚,搅拌溶解后,保温30min,开启冷却水冷却至40℃,加入聚丙烯酸钠,搅拌30min,过滤,包装。
本发明所述去油乳化剂优选去油乳化剂Z-22包括按照质量百分比计的如下组分:脂肪酸甲酯乙氧基化物磺酸盐12%、脂肪酸甲酯乙氧基化物20%、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚(9EO)8%、马来酸-丙烯酸共聚物15%,余量为去离子水。制作工艺如下:在反应釜中投入计量好的去离子水,升温至80℃,投入脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚、脂肪酸甲酯乙氧基化物磺酸盐、脂肪酸甲酯乙氧基化物,搅拌溶解后,保温30min,开启冷却水冷却至40℃,加入马来酸-丙烯酸共聚物,搅拌30min,过滤,包装。
实施例1
3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,包括如下步骤:
步骤一、坯布织造:织物设计:
a.织物设计:先设计出3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的工艺表格,首先算出盘头的总条数 140×208÷2.54≈11456条(计算公式经纱密度×全幅÷2.54),然后算出上机纬密是99× (1-3%)≈96条(坯布纬密×(1-织缩)),若上机幅宽按226CM,那么筘号是11456÷226 ÷3=16.9羽,坯布工艺即如表1所示,组织结构图如图1所示。
b.整经:先预算出要织1000米坯布所需要的纱个数和用纱量,那么需整经长度1000×(1+10%(损耗))=1100米,每个需要整经的个数11456÷8(按8个盘头并经)=1432个,经纱用纱量:如坯布工艺上甲纱每米需要纱量是71.6g,经纱甲纱总用纱量71.6g×1100米=76760g=76.76kg。坯布工艺上乙纱每米需要纱量是23.8g,经纱甲纱总用纱量23.8g×1100 米=26180g=26.18kg。因经纱甲乙纱的比例是12:3=3:1,共8个盘头,那么甲纱是6个盘头,即1.2.3.4.5.6盘头是甲纱盘头,乙纱是2个盘头,即7.8盘头是乙纱盘头,按每个盘头1432 根整完8个盘头后。
c.上浆:使用涤纶浆料PVA2088将8个盘头浆完(注意经纱的张力要均匀);
d.并经:使用并经机将8个盘头并成一个盘头(注意经纱的张力要均匀),在并经时甲乙纱的比例按12甲4乙排列进行并经,即1.2.3.4.5.6盘头循环2次即12根,然后7.8盘头循环2次即4根;
e.穿综打筘:如工艺穿综按1.2.3.4.5.6顺穿,注意穿综时甲乙纱也要按12甲4乙,不能穿错,打筘按3根每筘11456÷3=3919筘;
f.织布:
先将穿综打筘好的盘头拉到喷水织机上机;
输纹版,将工艺单上纹版图输入织机内;
调机,就是调整机台上机数据,如喷水角、上机纬密等;
织布,所有前道工序都没问题了,即可织布;
g.坯布检验:将织出来的坯布进行检验,看有没有断经、脱纬、纬档等现象;
步骤二、配布:依据《染整工程管制明细卡》指定的布种、批号、数量排布;
步骤三、退浆:坯布退卷后,经长车退浆,温度95℃,车速30M/min,轧车压力2kg,退浆液包括按照水量计的如下组分:天泉片碱40g/L、退浆剂Z-9 12g/L、去油乳化剂Z-2210g/L、渗透剂5g/L,注意布面不可折痕,松紧边,退浆完成后测试退浆效果:按照织物质量计,用质量浓度为3%的阳离子翠蓝(染料力份100%)染液浸泡退浆后的面料5min,取出坯布查看布面效果是否均匀;
步骤四、溢流染色:按照织物质量计,将3.7%的分散大黑(染料力份200%)、1.5%的分散红(染料力份100%)、0.8%的分散兰(染料力份100%)、6.5%的匀染剂和0.6%的冰醋酸充分搅匀,浴比1:10,将退浆后的坯布进入染缸进行染色,染色时的升温曲线为:4℃/min 升温至80℃,2℃/min升温至110℃,1℃/min升温至135℃,恒温60min,染色后取样对色,对色后进行还原洗,进行还原洗时按照4℃/min的升温速率升温至85℃,恒温20min;按照质量百分比计,所述还原液包括2.5%的保险粉、0.5%的烧碱,余量为水。还原洗可以赋予织物良好的色牢度。
步骤五、真空吸水;
步骤六、泼水定型:按照水量计,将泼水剂30g/L、亲水柔软剂5g/L、冰醋酸0.1g/L用水稀释混合均匀,配100L置于料槽,将真空吸水后的坯布经料槽润湿后经轧车充分挤压,压力2.5kg,经烘箱干燥(温度*速度*风量*超喂为170℃*30M/min*1000m3/h*4%)、经冷却辊冷却;后测试防水效果,比较手感。
步骤七、中检:检验经泼水定型后的面料是否有瑕疵(如断经、脱纬、纬档、有无染色点等),将无瑕疵的面料送至下一个工序;
步骤八、3D发泡:在烫金机上装上花辊,常温下通过运转花辊将水性发泡胶印在面料上,瞬间可形成花纹,再经过170℃的高温烘箱高温烘干,水性发泡胶收缩形成立体形状;
步骤九、复合TPU黑膜:在55℃下,将水性热熔胶通过热熔胶机刮涂在TPU黑膜上,经大轮将步骤八所得面料和TPU黑膜贴合,放置12h后,即得所述3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料。
坯布平方米重75G/㎡,经密140T,纬密99T,坯布幅宽208cm,成品平方米重130G/㎡,经密190T,纬密114T,成品幅宽(针内)145cm。
实施例2
3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,包括如下步骤:
步骤一、坯布织造:织物设计:
a.织物设计:先设计出3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的工艺表格,首先算出盘头的总条数 140×208÷2.54≈11456条(计算公式经纱密度×全幅÷2.54),然后算出上机纬密是99× (1-3%)≈96条(坯布纬密×(1-织缩)),若上机幅宽按226CM,那么筘号是11456÷226 ÷3=16.9羽,坯布工艺即如表1所示,组织结构图如图1所示。
b.整经:先预算出要织1000米坯布所需要的纱个数和用纱量,那么需整经长度1000× (1+10%(损耗))=1100米,每个需要整经的个数11456÷8(按8个盘头并经)=1432个,经纱用纱量:如坯布工艺上甲纱每米需要纱量是71.6g,经纱甲纱总用纱量71.6g×1100米=76760g=76.76kg。坯布工艺上乙纱每米需要纱量是23.8g,经纱甲纱总用纱量23.8g×1100 米=26180g=26.18kg。因经纱甲乙纱的比例是12:3=3:1,共8个盘头,那么甲纱是6个盘头,即1.2.3.4.5.6盘头是甲纱盘头,乙纱是2个盘头,即7.8盘头是乙纱盘头,按每个盘头1432 根整完8个盘头后。
c.上浆:使用涤纶浆料PVA2088将8个盘头浆完(注意经纱的张力要均匀);
d.并经:使用并经机将8个盘头并成一个盘头(注意经纱的张力要均匀),在并经时甲乙纱的比例按12甲4乙排列进行并经,即1.2.3.4.5.6盘头循环2次即12根,然后7.8盘头循环2次即4根;
e.穿综打筘:如工艺穿综按1.2.3.4.5.6顺穿,注意穿综时甲乙纱也要按12甲4乙,不能穿错,打筘按3根每筘11456÷3=3919筘;
f.织布:
先将穿综打筘好的盘头拉到喷水织机上机;
输纹版,将工艺单上纹版图输入织机内;
调机,就是调整机台上机数据,如喷水角、上机纬密等;
织布,所有前道工序都没问题了,即可织布;
g.坯布检验:将织出来的坯布进行检验,看有没有断经、脱纬、纬档等现象;
步骤二、配布:依据《染整工程管制明细卡》指定的布种、批号、数量排布;
步骤三、退浆:坯布退卷后,经长车退浆,温度90℃,车速25M/min,轧车压力2.5kg,退浆液包括按照水量计的如下组分:天泉片碱35g/L、退浆剂Z-9 10g/L、去油乳化剂Z-228g/L、渗透剂2g/L,注意布面不可折痕,松紧边,退浆完成后测试退浆效果:按照织物质量计,用质量浓度为3%的阳离子翠蓝(染料力份100%)染液浸泡退浆后的面料5min,取出坯布查看布面效果是否均匀;
步骤四、溢流染色:按照织物质量计,将3.5%的分散大黑(染料力份200%)、1%的分散红(染料力份100%)、0.5%的分散兰(染料力份100%)、6%的匀染剂和0.5%的冰醋酸充分搅匀,浴比1:10,将退浆后的坯布进入染缸进行染色,染色时的升温曲线为:3.5℃/min升温至75℃,1.5℃/min升温至105℃,0.5℃/min升温至130℃,恒温65min,染色后取样对色,对色后进行还原洗,进行还原洗时按照3℃/min的升温速率升温至80℃,恒温20min;按照质量百分比计,所述还原液包括2%的保险粉、0.2%的烧碱,余量为水。还原洗可以赋予织物良好的色牢度。
步骤五、真空吸水;
步骤六、泼水定型:按照水量计,将泼水剂25g/L、亲水柔软剂2g/L、冰醋酸0.05g/L用水稀释混合均匀,配100L置于料槽,将真空吸水后的坯布经料槽润湿后经轧车充分挤压,压力2kg,经烘箱干燥(温度*速度*风量*超喂为170℃*30M/min*1000m3/h*4%)、经冷却辊冷却;后测试防水效果,比较手感。
步骤七、中检:检验经泼水定型后的面料是否有瑕疵(如断经、脱纬、纬档、有无染色点等),将无瑕疵的面料送至下一个工序;
步骤八、3D发泡:在烫金机上装上花辊,常温下通过运转花辊将水性发泡胶印在面料上,瞬间可形成花纹,再经过165℃的高温烘箱高温烘干,水性发泡胶收缩形成立体形状;
步骤九、复合TPU黑膜:在50℃℃下,将水性热熔胶通过热熔胶机刮涂在TPU黑膜上,经大轮将步骤八所得面料和TPU黑膜贴合,放置10h后,即得所述3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料。
实施例3
3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,包括如下步骤:
步骤一、坯布织造:织物设计:
a.织物设计:先设计出3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的工艺表格,首先算出盘头的总条数140×208÷2.54≈11456条(计算公式经纱密度×全幅÷2.54),然后算出上机纬密是99× (1-3%)≈96条(坯布纬密×(1-织缩)),若上机幅宽按226CM,那么筘号是11456÷226 ÷3=16.9羽,坯布工艺即如表1所示,组织结构图如图1所示。
b.整经:先预算出要织1000米坯布所需要的纱个数和用纱量,那么需整经长度1000× (1+10%(损耗))=1100米,每个需要整经的个数11456÷8(按8个盘头并经)=1432个,经纱用纱量:如坯布工艺上甲纱每米需要纱量是71.6g,经纱甲纱总用纱量71.6g×1100米=76760g=76.76kg。坯布工艺上乙纱每米需要纱量是23.8g,经纱甲纱总用纱量23.8g×1100 米=26180g=26.18kg。因经纱甲乙纱的比例是12:3=3:1,共8个盘头,那么甲纱是6个盘头,即1.2.3.4.5.6盘头是甲纱盘头,乙纱是2个盘头,即7.8盘头是乙纱盘头,按每个盘头1432 根整完8个盘头后。
c.上浆:使用涤纶浆料PVA2088将8个盘头浆完(注意经纱的张力要均匀);
d.并经:使用并经机将8个盘头并成一个盘头(注意经纱的张力要均匀),在并经时甲乙纱的比例按12甲4乙排列进行并经,即1.2.3.4.5.6盘头循环2次即12根,然后7.8盘头循环2次即4根;
e.穿综打筘:如工艺穿综按1.2.3.4.5.6顺穿,注意穿综时甲乙纱也要按12甲4乙,不能穿错,打筘按3根每筘11456÷3=3919筘;
f.织布:
先将穿综打筘好的盘头拉到喷水织机上机;
输纹版,将工艺单上纹版图输入织机内;
调机,就是调整机台上机数据,如喷水角、上机纬密等;
织布,所有前道工序都没问题了,即可织布;
g.坯布检验:将织出来的坯布进行检验,看有没有断经、脱纬、纬档等现象;
步骤二、配布:依据《染整工程管制明细卡》指定的布种、批号、数量排布;
步骤三、退浆:坯布退卷后,经长车退浆,温度97℃,车速35M/min,轧车压力1.5kg,退浆液包括按照水量计的如下组分:天泉片碱45g/L、退浆剂Z-9 15g/L、去油乳化剂Z-2212g/L、渗透剂8g/L,注意布面不可折痕,松紧边,退浆完成后测试退浆效果:按照织物质量计,用质量浓度为3%的阳离子翠蓝(染料力份100%)染液浸泡退浆后的面料5min,取出坯布查看布面效果是否均匀;
步骤四、溢流染色:按照织物质量计,将4%的分散大黑(染料力份200%)、2%的分散红(染料力份100%)、1%的分散兰(染料力份100%)、7%的匀染剂和0.8%的冰醋酸充分搅匀,浴比1:10,将退浆后的坯布进入染缸进行染色,染色时的升温曲线为:4.5℃/min升温至85℃,2.5℃/min升温至115℃,1.5℃/min升温至140℃,恒温55min,染色后取样对色,对色后进行还原洗,进行还原洗时按照5℃/min的升温速率升温至90℃,恒温20min;按照质量百分比计,所述还原液包括3%的保险粉、0.8%的烧碱,余量为水。还原洗可以赋予织物良好的色牢度。
步骤五、真空吸水;
步骤六、泼水定型:按照水量计,将泼水剂35g/L、亲水柔软剂7g/L、冰醋酸0.15g/L用水稀释混合均匀,配100L置于料槽,将真空吸水后的坯布经料槽润湿后经轧车充分挤压,压力3kg,经烘箱干燥(温度*速度*风量*超喂为170℃*30M/min*1000m3/h*4%)、经冷却辊冷却;后测试防水效果,比较手感。
步骤七、中检:检验经泼水定型后的面料是否有瑕疵(如断经、脱纬、纬档、有无染色点等),将无瑕疵的面料送至下一个工序;
步骤八、3D发泡:在烫金机上装上花辊,常温下通过运转花辊将水性发泡胶印在面料上,瞬间可形成花纹,再经过175℃的高温烘箱高温烘干,水性发泡胶收缩形成立体形状;
步骤九、复合TPU黑膜:在60℃下,将水性热熔胶通过热熔胶机刮涂在TPU黑膜上,经大轮将步骤八所得面料和TPU黑膜贴合,放置15h后,即得所述3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料。
表1坯布工艺表
表2实施例1所得3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的性能测试
最后应说明的是:以上所述仅为本发明的优选实施例而已,并不用于限制本发明,尽管参照前述实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明,对于本领域的技术人员来说,其依然可以对前述各实施例所记载的技术方案进行修改,或者对其中部分技术特征进行等同替换。凡在本发明的精神和原则之内,所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (9)

1.3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,其特征在于,包括如下步骤:
步骤一、坯布织造、检验;
步骤二、配布;
步骤三、退浆:坯布退卷后,经长车退浆,温度90-97℃,车速25-35M/min,轧车压力1.5-2.5kg,退浆液包括按照水量计的如下组分:片碱35-45g/L、退浆剂10-15g/L、去油乳化剂8-12g/L、渗透剂2-8g/L,退浆完成后测试退浆效果;
步骤四、溢流染色:按照织物质量计,将3.5%-4%的分散大黑、1%-2%的分散红、0.5%-1%的分散兰、6%-7%的匀染剂和0.5%-0.8%的冰醋酸充分搅匀,浴比1:10,将退浆后的坯布进入染缸进行染色;染色后取样对色,对色后进行还原洗;
步骤五、真空吸水;
步骤六、泼水定型:按照水量计,将泼水剂25-35g/L、亲水柔软剂2-7g/L、冰醋酸0.05-0.15g/L用水稀释混合均匀,置于料槽,将真空吸水后的坯布经料槽润湿后经充分挤压,压力2-3kg,经干燥、冷却;
步骤七、中检:检验经泼水定型后的面料是否有瑕疵,将无瑕疵的面料送至下一个工序;
步骤八、3D发泡:将水性发泡胶印在面料上形成花纹,经高温烘干,水性发泡胶收缩形成立体形状;
步骤九、复合TPU黑膜:50℃~60℃,将水性热熔胶刮涂在TPU黑膜上,将步骤八所得面料和TPU黑膜贴合,放置10-15h后,即得所述3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,其特征在于,步骤一所述坯布织造包括织物设计、整经、上浆、并经、穿综打筘和织布,其中坯布由两种经纱和一种纬纱织造而成,所述两种经纱为:75D涤纶半光低弹和75D涤纶仿T400,所述纬纱为75D涤纶仿T400。
3.根据权利要求2所述的3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,其特征在于,步骤一所述上浆时使用的浆料为聚乙烯醇PVA2088。
4.根据权利要求1所述的3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,其特征在于,步骤三所述退浆完成后测试退浆效果具体为:用质量浓度为3%的阳离子翠蓝染液浸泡退浆后的面料5min,取出坯布查看布面效果是否均匀。
5.根据权利要求1所述的3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,其特征在于,步骤四中所述染色时的升温曲线为:3.5-4.5℃/min升温至75-85℃,1.5-2.5℃/min升温至105-115℃,0.5-1.5℃/min升温至130-140℃,恒温55-65min进行染色。
6.根据权利要求1所述的3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,其特征在于,步骤四中所述还原洗具体为:将对色后的面料用还原液进行还原洗,进行还原洗时按照3-5℃/min的升温速率升温至80-90℃,再恒温20min;按照质量百分比计,所述还原液包括2%-3%的保险粉、0.2%-0.8%的烧碱,余量为水。
7.根据权利要求1所述的3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,其特征在于,步骤六所述干燥时的工艺参数为:温度*速度*风量*超喂为170℃*30M/min*1000m3/h*4%。
8.根据权利要求1所述的3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,其特征在于,步骤八所述水性发泡胶为水性聚氨脂发泡胶,水性发泡胶的涂印量为40克/平方米,所述高温烘干时的温度为165-175℃。
9.根据权利要求1所述的3D立体竖条泡泡皱纬弹面料的制作方法,其特征在于,步骤九所述的水性热熔胶为PES热熔胶,水性热熔胶的刮涂量为6克/平方米。
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