CN108653093B

CN108653093B - Cosmetic composition with whitening and skin brightening effects

Info

Publication number: CN108653093B
Application number: CN201810731674.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 闫继鹏; 李雪竹; 章志强
Original assignee: SHANGHAI NEW COGI COSMETIC Co Ltd
Current assignee: SHANGHAI NEW COGI COSMETIC Co Ltd
Priority date: 2018-07-05
Filing date: 2018-07-05
Publication date: 2020-03-24
Anticipated expiration: 2038-07-05
Also published as: CN108653093A

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a cosmetic composition with whitening and skin brightening effects. The composition comprises nicotinamide 1-3%, whitening complex 1-4%, citrus peel extract 0.5-1.5%, arbutin 0.1-0.5%, oligopeptide-41-10 PPM, etc. Wherein the whitening complex comprises water, butanediol, arbutin, citric acid, sodium sulfite, acetyltyrosine, herba Saxifragae extract, peony root extract, aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate, Scutellariae radix extract, glutathione, and hydrolyzed Prunus cerasifera. The invention is characterized in that raw materials with synergistic effect are selected at each whitening node, which can inhibit tyrosinase activity, inhibit melanin transfer, brighten skin color, and simultaneously realize the synergistic effect of each node in a whitening path, thereby finally achieving safe, effective and stable whitening effect.

Description

Cosmetic composition with whitening and skin brightening effects

Technical Field

The invention relates to a cosmetic, belongs to the technical field of daily skin care products, and particularly relates to a cosmetic composition with whitening and skin brightening effects.

Background

Since ancient times, our east asian women were beautiful with white, and many methods were used for whitening. Such as milk baths, etc. Even many toxic substances, such as the early lead and mercury facings, were used until the last century.

Many whitening agents have been developed and selected since the recent years. At present, one of the most effective skin lightening actives is hydroquinone, but hydroquinone has a small molecular weight, destroys melanocytes, and may induce inflammation. Therefore, hydroquinone is subject to strict regulations in most countries of the world and is prohibited from being used as a cosmetic ingredient.

Rhododendrol was once the whitening active of a famous cosmetic company in japan. However, the latter suffers from the problem of over-whitening. The company then specifically apologizes to the customer for this issue.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring medium chain fatty acid. It is an important skin whitening agent and has tyrosinase inhibiting effect. There are some technical and formulation problems in application. First, azelaic acid must be effective at high concentrations. At high concentrations azelaic acid does not dissolve, making the formulated cosmetic of poor quality, especially very thick systems difficult to spread. Secondly, azelaic acid has a higher melting point and is generally more difficult to formulate.

L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives and licorice extract are easy to discolor, and its stability is not a little problem, and special attention is required for use.

At present, in order to make a short-term profit, some illegal merchants add glucocorticoid to cosmetics such as facial masks. The whitening and firming effect can be generated in a short time, but the long-term use of the whitening and firming agent has very serious consequences on the skin of a human.

With the development of modern science and technology, people know skin color systems more and more deeply. The shade of skin color is regulated by various factors, but still depends mainly on the content and distribution of melanin. Melanin is produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes, one of the important constituent cells of the skin, are dendritic processes through which melanin formed within the cell is transported into the cells of the stratum corneum. It is prepared by the following steps of 1: 36 and keratinocyte are formed into an epidermal unit, the epidermal unit exists in an epidermal basal layer, and melanocytes determine skin color depth by synthesizing melanin and can absorb ultraviolet rays so as to prevent the body from being damaged by the ultraviolet rays. The specific melanin formation process is as follows: when ultraviolet rays irradiate the skin, keratinocytes are stimulated to produce inflammatory factors, histamine, and the like, and at the same time, DNA is damaged and free radicals are generated. Melanocytes are stimulated by inflammatory factors, free radicals, etc. to differentiate and accelerate. The activity of internal tyrosinase is increased, tyrosine is converted into dopa under the catalytic action of tyrosinase, and is further converted into dopaquinone, and the dopaquinone is converted into melanin through free radical reaction. Melanosomes are delivered to keratinocytes via dendrites. Eventually resulting in pigmentation of the pigment in the skin.

Recently, many companies have developed some whitening compositions, and more indeed some products with simply superimposed effects, which are difficult to achieve.

How to develop an efficient, safe and stable skin care product scheme with whitening and skin brightening effects becomes a difficult point in the existing cosmetic industry.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to make up for the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition with a synergistic whitening effect, which can play a key role in tyrosinase inhibition and melanin transfer and can also play a synergistic role in other aspects, so that the remarkable whitening effect can be achieved, and the synergistic effect can be balanced without causing negative feedback phenomenon.

The invention adopts the following technical scheme:

a cosmetic composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

preferably, the cosmetic composition selects the auxiliary material matrix to be composed of one or more of the following components by mass percent:

the cosmetic composition adopts nicotinamide as high purity material, and has nicotinic acid content of less than 100 PPM. It has outstanding effects in inhibiting melanosome transfer and accelerating the repair of damaged DNA. When the niacinamide content is less than 1% in the cosmetic composition, the overall whitening effect is much weakened by the test. When the nicotinamide content is more than 3%, the cytotoxicity is too high through in vitro cell tests. Therefore, 1 to 3 percent of the total weight is selected.

The whitening compound used in the composition is water, butanediol, arbutin, citric acid, sodium sulfite, acetyl tyrosine, herba Saxifragae extract, peony root extract, aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate, Scutellariae radix extract, glutathione, and hydrolyzed Prunus cerasifera. Wherein the ratio of each component is about: 40-50% of water, 40-50% of butanediol, 0.3-0.8% of arbutin, 0.3-0.6% of citric acid, 0.4-0.6% of sodium sulfite, 0.1-0.3% of acetyl tyrosine, 0.01-0.3% of strawberry saxifrage extract, 0.01-0.2% of peony root extract, 0.001-0.1% of aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate, 0.01-0.1% of scutellaria root extract, 0.001-0.1% of glutathione and 0.01-0.6% of hydrolyzed prunus cerasifera.

In the whitening composition:

UV-absorbing arbutin, radix Scutellariae extract;

inhibiting inflammatory factor activity-Scutellariae radix extract, and peony root extract;

inhibition of tyrosinase activity-arbutin;

inhibiting melanin natural oxidative polymerization and reducing melanin formation-strawberry Saxifraga stolonifera extract, Scutellariae radix extract, and aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate;

repairing DNA damage caused by ultraviolet-strawberry Saxifraga stolonifera extract;

promoting the synthesis of brown melanin instead of the real melanin, namely glutathione;

competes with tyrosine for the tyrosinase, acetyltyrosine;

promoting cell proliferation and keratinocyte renewal-aminopropanol ascorbyl phosphate, citric acid;

inhibiting melanin from being engulfed by keratinocytes-hydrolysis of prunus cerasifera.

Through research and experimental analysis on the mechanism, in the cosmetic composition, when the dosage of the whitening compound is less than 1%, the whitening effect of the cosmetic composition is not obvious. When the whitening complex is used in an amount higher than 4%, the heat-resistant and light-resistant stability of the cosmetic composition is deteriorated. The amount is therefore chosen to be 1-4%.

The citrus peel extract in the cosmetic composition has the function of cooperating with other components to make the skin more smooth and bright. The total flavone amount and kind are one standard of the quality. The citrus peel extract adopted in the cosmetic composition adopts a carbon dioxide supercritical extraction technology, and the content of the total flavone of the citrus peel extract extracted by the technology is more than 2.5 percent and is obviously higher than that extracted by other methods. And has the advantages of environmental protection and energy saving. In the test of the cosmetic composition, when the content of the citrus peel extract is less than 0.2%, the effect is small, and when the content is more than 1.5%, the cosmetic composition is easily discolored under light and heat resistance at 45 ℃, so 0.5-1.5% is selected.

The cosmetic composition adopts arbutin as cosmetic grade material with content of over 98%, and has effects of inhibiting tyrosinase activity as key enzyme in melanin production process, and absorbing ultraviolet. Because arbutin has similarity with tyrosine in structure, the arbutin can compete with tyrosine to bind tyrosinase in the process of synthesizing melanin by tyrosine, thereby reducing the effect of tyrosinase on synthesizing melanin. When the content of arbutin in the cosmetic composition is lower than 0.1%, the whitening effect is very small; when the content is more than 0.8%, the cosmetic composition is apt to turn red during storage. Therefore, 0.1-0.5% is selected.

Oligopeptide-4, a plant-based biotechnological raw material, selected in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a multifunctional protein that can protect skin cells from radiation-induced Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9), and inflammation and photoaging caused by tumor necrosis factor (TNFa). In addition, she can reduce superficial melanin content, helping to evenly lighten skin color.

The solvent in the cosmetic composition of the invention is deionized water;

humectants in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, glycerin, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, sorbitol, and hexylglycerin, trehalose, betaine, sodium hyaluronate, saccharide isomers, urea, allantoin, panthenol, glycerin acrylate/acrylic acid copolymers, dextran, and combinations thereof;

thickeners in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, xanthan gum, carbomers, cellulose and its modifications, gellan gum, polyacrylamide, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacrylate-13, acrylamide/acrylamide copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, and combinations thereof;

emulsifiers in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, hydrogenated lecithin, cetostearyl olivetoleate, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polysorbates, alkyl glucosides, sucrose fatty acid esters, sodium stearyl glutamate, polyglyceryl fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol stearates, fatty alcohol polyethers, polyethylene glycol polysiloxanes, and combinations thereof;

emollients in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, vegetable fats, animal fats, synthetic fats, mineral fats and combinations thereof; ultraviolet light absorbers include, but are not limited to, BHT, TINOGARD TT, VE, sunscreens, and combinations thereof; skin conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, soothing agents, anti-allergy agents, and combinations thereof;

chelating agents in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, EDTA-2NA, EDTA-4NA, and combinations thereof; preservatives include, but are not limited to, phenoxyethanol, parabens, organic acids, imidazolidinyl ureas, and combinations thereof.

Due to the adoption of the technical scheme, the cosmetic composition can avoid the phenomenon that the skin obtains a negative feedback signal (melanin is reduced, and melanin needs to be produced in large quantity) because the signal of a certain whitening node is suddenly enhanced. The whitening effect can be highlighted through the synergistic effect on a plurality of whitening key points, and the control can be performed on the nodes of the whole whitening chain, so that the generation and transmission of melanin are harmoniously reduced in the skin system of a human body, and the whitening and skin brightening effects are achieved. Experiments prove that the composition has an outstanding synergistic effect on whitening.

Detailed Description

The present invention is illustrated by the following examples, which are provided for the purpose of further illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Other insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the present invention can be made without departing from the scope of the present invention. Unless otherwise specified, the following percentages (%) are mass percentages.

The invention can absorb ultraviolet rays, inhibit inflammatory factors, repair damaged DNA, remove free radicals, inhibit tyrosinase, reduce melanin, and inhibit the melanin from being phagocytized and transferred, thereby achieving the purpose of whitening. The invention not only can play an important role in the aspects of tyrosinase inhibition and melanin transfer, but also can play a synergistic role in other aspects, thereby not only achieving the prominent whitening effect, but also balancing the cooperation without causing negative feedback phenomenon.

Examples 1 to 3

A cosmetic composition with skin whitening and brightening effects is prepared into a face cream, and the content of the raw material components, the raw material components of a reference example and the blank example is shown in the following table 1.

TABLE 1 examples 1 to 3, comparative examples 1 to 5 and blank examples (% by mass)

The preparation process of the cosmetic composition into the face cream can be expressed as follows:

1. adding deionized water, DETA-2NA, butanediol, allantoin and sodium stearyl glutamate into a water phase pot, stirring and heating to 75-80 deg.C, stirring and dispersing uniformly to obtain phase A;

2. adding monoglyceride, cetostearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, and shea butter into oil phase pan, stirring and heating to 75-80 deg.C, stirring and dissolving uniformly to obtain phase B;

3. pumping A, B into an emulsifying pot at the same time, homogenizing and emulsifying for 6 min, adding xanthan gum and polyacrylate-13 (and) polyisobutylene (and) polysorbate-20 with glycerol dispersed, homogenizing for 6 min, keeping the temperature for 20 min, and cooling;

4. dissolving nicotinamide and arbutin with appropriate amount of sterilized water;

5. when the temperature of the material in the pot is reduced to below 40 ℃, adding essence, solubilizer, preservative, whitening compound, citrus peel extract, dissolved nicotinamide, oligopeptide-4 and arbutin into an emulsifying pot, and uniformly stirring;

the ingredient 9-whitening compound is shown in the following table 2.

Table 2 raw material component formula of whitening compound

1. The tester: 80 healthy women (25-45 years old) divided into 8 groups of 10 persons each; each group used the same formulation.

2. Test area: face (left face blank, right face control sample or example sample);

3. use of: twice a day in the morning and evening for 4 weeks

4. Testing an instrument: delfin SkinColorCatch (Finland)

5. The effect indexes are as follows: measuring the change in color lightness (. DELTA.L)^*) ITA degree, L in the present invention^*The values (brightness), ITA degrees (color individual type angle), are mainly used as indices.

Equation (1): Δ L^*＝[L^*(after 1 month of test on the control or example products) -L^*(before starting the test)]-[L^*(blank product after 1 month of testing) -L^*(before starting the test)]；

(2): ITA degree (representing the overall change of chromaticity, the larger the ITA degree value is, the lighter the skin color is.)

ITA degree range	Skin color classification
		55–90	Very shallow Very light
41–54	Light shallow
		28–40	Intermediate, etc
10–27	Tanned tanning
		-30–9	Brown color of Brown
-90–-29	-29Dark color of Dark color

5. The test results are shown in table 3 below:

the results in table 3 show that the whitening composition of the present invention has more significant whitening and skin color lightening effects through the synergistic effect of the components, and the effects are more obvious than those of a single whitening component.

Example 4

A whitening composition prepared into cream comprises the raw material components, the raw material components of the comparative example and the blank example, wherein the contents are shown in the following table 4.

TABLE 4 whitening cream of example 4, comparative examples 5 to 14 and blank example (unit: mass%)

The preparation process of the composition (cream) is the same as that described above.

The ingredient formula and content of the 16-whitening compound are shown in table 5.

Table 5 raw material component formulation of whitening complex

Effect test example (whitening evaluation)

1. The tester: 77 healthy women (25-45 years old) were divided into 11 groups of 7 persons each, each group using the same formula.

3. use of: twice a day in the morning and evening for 4 weeks;

4. testing an instrument: DelfinSkinColorCatch (finland);

5. the effect indexes are as follows: the change in color brightness (Δ L) and the ITA degree were measured, and the L value (brightness) and the ITA degree (color individual type angle) were mainly used as indices in the present invention.

6. The test results are shown in table 6 below:

the results in table 6 show that the composition of the present invention has more significant whitening and skin color brightening effects through the synergistic effect of the components, and the whitening effect is more obvious than that of the combination of two, three or four components.

Safety test

1. The number of tested persons: 30 persons in total, 3 men and 27 women; minimum age: 24 years old, maximum age: 45

The year of age; mean age 35.73 ± 7.15 years volunteer enrollment criteria.

2. The test method comprises the following steps: examples 1-4 were tested for patch. Selecting a qualified spot tester, placing about 0.020-0.025 mL of a tested object into the spot tester by using a closed spot test method, externally applying a medical adhesive tape to the back of the tested object, removing the tested object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions 0.5, 24 and 48 hours after the spot is removed, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

3. The evaluation criteria are as follows in table 7:

TABLE 7 grading Standard of adverse skin reactions

The results in table 7 show: the result of the human skin closed patch test shows that 0 of 30 persons has positive reaction, and the test object does not cause adverse skin reaction to the batch of test objects according to the regulation in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

Stability test

1. Stability test samples: example 3 product.

2. The test method comprises the following steps: the internal control standard (illumination for 1 month and high and low temperature test for 3 months) is higher than the national standard and the industrial standard.

3. The test results are shown in Table 8 below

The results in table 8 show: the composition has good stability in product application.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the present invention in any way, so that any simple modification, equivalent change and modification made to the above embodiment according to the technical spirit of the present invention are within the scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. The cosmetic composition with the effects of whitening and brightening the skin is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

1-3% of nicotinamide;

1-4% of whitening compound, wherein the whitening compound comprises 40-50% of water, 40-50% of butanediol, 0.3-0.8% of arbutin, 0.3-0.6% of citric acid, 0.4-0.6% of sodium sulfite, 0.1-0.3% of acetyl tyrosine, 0.01-0.3% of strawberry saxifrage extract, 0.01-0.2% of peony root extract, 0.001-0.1% of aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate, 0.01-0.1% of scutellaria root extract, 0.001-0.1% of glutathione and 0.01-0.6% of hydrolyzed cherry plum;

the sum of the contents of the raw material components is 100 percent.

2. The cosmetic composition with whitening and skin-lightening effects according to claim 1, wherein: the composition selects an auxiliary material matrix to be composed of one or more of the following components:

3. the cosmetic composition having whitening and skin-lightening effects according to claim 2, characterized in that: the composition selects an auxiliary material matrix which comprises the following components:

4. the cosmetic composition with whitening and skin-lightening effects according to claim 1, wherein: the adopted niacinamide is a cosmetic raw material with the nicotinic acid content of less than 100 PPM.

5. The cosmetic composition with whitening and skin-lightening effects according to claim 1, wherein: the citrus peel extract adopts a carbon dioxide supercritical extraction technology;

the arbutin is a cosmetic grade raw material with the content of over 98 percent;

the oligopeptide-4 is a product of high-purity protein transient expression based on plants.

6. The cosmetic composition with whitening and skin-lightening effects according to claim 3, wherein: the humectant is selected from: glycerin, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, sorbitol, and one or more of hexylglycerin, trehalose, betaine, sodium hyaluronate, saccharide isomerate, urea, allantoin, panthenol, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, dextran, and combinations thereof;

the thickening agent is selected from: xanthan gum, carbomer, cellulose and modified substances thereof, gellan gum, polyacrylamide, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacrylate-13, acrylamide/acrylamide copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer and one or more of compositions thereof;

the emulsifier is selected from: one or more of cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, methylgluco sesquistearate, PEG-20 methylgluco sesquistearate, hydrogenated lecithin, cetostearyl olivate, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polysorbates, alkyl glucosides, sucrose fatty acid esters, sodium stearyl glutamate, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol stearates, fatty alcohol polyethers, polyethylene glycol polysiloxanes, and combinations thereof;

the emollient is selected from: one or more of vegetable oil and fat, animal oil and fat, synthetic oil and fat, mineral oil and fat and their composition;

the ultraviolet absorber is selected from: one or more of BHT, TINOGARD TT, VE, sunscreen, and combinations thereof;

the skin conditioning agent is selected from: one or more of a soothing agent, an anti-allergy agent, and combinations thereof;

the chelating agent is selected from: one or more of EDTA-2NA, EDTA-4NA, and combinations thereof;

the preservative is selected from: one or more of phenoxyethanol, parabens, organic acids, imidazolidinyl ureas and combinations thereof.

7. A cosmetic for whitening and brightening skin color, which is characterized in that: the cosmetic comprising a cosmetic composition of claim 1.

8. The cosmetic according to claim 7, characterized in that: the cosmetic is skin cream, skin lotion, skin gel, skin essence or skin lotion.