CN112891278B - Whitening composition, preparation method and application - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of skin care products, and particularly discloses a whitening composition, a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the whitening composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.5-5.0% of Chimaphila umbellata leaf extract; 1,2-pentanediol 0.1-3.0%; 0.1 to 4.0 percent of emulsifier; 0.1 to 2.0 percent of thickening agent; 1.0-30.0% of emollient; 5.0 to 20.0 percent of humectant; 3.0-10.0% of skin conditioner; 0.1 to 0.6 percent of pH regulator; 0.1 to 1.0 percent of preservative; 24.4 to 90 percent of water. The invention can promote the transdermal absorption of the eriosema chinense leaf extract and enhance the whitening effect of the eriosema chinense leaf extract by combining the eriosema chinense leaf extract, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-pentanediol. 1,2-pentanediol does not damage the skin itself, thereby avoiding problems such as the irritation of conventional penetration-promoting components is large, or the people with sensitive muscles are not suitable for the like.

Description

Whitening composition, preparation method and application

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of skin care products, in particular to a whitening composition, a preparation method and application.

Background

People in modern society have fast pace of life and great pressure on life, and various problems often occur to skin due to environmental influence, so that the skin needs to be whitened and repaired by means of skin care products. At present, the number of whitening products on the skin care product market is infinite, in order to improve the deep-level whitening purpose of the skin care products, most of the skin care products adopt penetration enhancers such as laurocapram and glyceryl laurate, but the common penetration enhancers can bring extra damage to the skin and cause skin allergy and red swelling. Therefore, it is an urgent problem to develop a whitening composition that reduces damage to the skin and has a remarkable whitening effect.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a whitening composition, a preparation method and application, and aims to solve the problems that the whitening composition on the market has great damage to skin and has poor whitening effect.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

the first object of the present invention is to provide a whitening composition comprising, in mass percent:

0.5-5.0% of Chimaphila umbellata leaf extract;

1,2-pentanediol 0.1-3.0%;

0.1 to 4.0 percent of emulsifier;

0.1 to 2.0 percent of thickening agent;

1.0-30.0% of emollient;

5.0 to 20.0 percent of humectant;

3.0-10.0% of skin conditioner;

0.1 to 0.6 percent of pH regulator;

0.1 to 1.0 percent of preservative;

24.4 to 90 percent of water.

Further, the emulsifier is selected from one or more of steareth-21, hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteareth-20, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-20, caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters.

Further, the thickening agent is selected from one or more of sclerotium rolfsii gum, carbomer, xanthan gum, sodium acrylate copolymer, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, tamarind seed polysaccharide and crinkle carrageenan powder.

Further, the emollient is selected from one or more of cetostearyl alcohol, squalane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclomethicone, octyl methicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isomeric hexadecane, ethylene glycol palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, mineral oil, prinsepia utilis royle oil, octyl dodecanol, aescula Luo Shuangzi fat, olive oil, isopropyl myristate, phenyl methicone, and rice bran oil.

Further, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, diglycerin, butanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, betaine, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, methyl propylene glycol, urea, hydroxyethyl urea, sodium polyglutamate, panthenol and levan.

Further, the skin conditioning agent is selected from one or more of bisabolol, tocopherol, trehalose, beta-glucan, niacinamide, sodium polyaspartate, glycerol glucoside, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, asiaticoside, matrine, purslane extract, carnosine, acetyl chitosamine, sodium polyglutamate, lactobacillus fermentation lysate, and pomegranate fruit extract.

Further, the pH regulator is selected from one or more of triethanolamine, potassium hydroxide, arginine, sodium hydroxide, citric acid and sodium citrate.

Further, the preservative is selected from one or more of methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, hexamidine dihydrochloride and benzyl alcohol.

The second purpose of the invention is to provide the application of the whitening composition in a skin care product, wherein the addition amount of the whitening composition in the skin care product is 0.6-8.0% by mass.

The third object of the present invention is to provide a preparation method of the whitening composition, which comprises the following steps:

adding water, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, sclerotium rolfsii gum, xanthan gum, methylparaben, butanediol, methyl propylene glycol and trehalose into a vacuum emulsifying pot according to the mass percentage, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, fully and uniformly stirring to obtain a phase A raw material, and keeping the phase A raw material at a constant temperature for later use;

adding octyl dodecanol, isomeric hexadecane, bisabolol and rice bran oil into an oil pan, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, fully and uniformly stirring to obtain a B-phase raw material, and keeping the temperature of the B-phase raw material for later use;

pumping the B-phase raw material into a vacuum emulsifying pot containing the A-phase raw material, uniformly mixing and stirring, homogenizing and emulsifying for 5-8 minutes, fully and uniformly stirring, stirring at constant temperature for defoaming for 10 minutes, and cooling to obtain a first mixed solution;

cooling the first mixed solution to below 40 ℃, adding a C-phase raw material prepared from dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, arginine, glycerol glucoside, beta-glucan, chimaphila umbellate leaf extract and/or 1,2-pentanediol according to mass percent, uniformly stirring, and continuously cooling to obtain a second mixed solution;

and cooling the second mixed solution to below 35 ℃, adding a D-phase raw material containing phenoxyethanol, fully and uniformly stirring, discharging, and standing to obtain the whitening composition.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

the whitening composition provided by the invention comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.5-5.0% of Chimaphila umbellata leaf extract; 1,2-pentanediol 0.1-3.0%; 0.1 to 4.0 percent of emulsifier; 0.1 to 2.0 percent of thickening agent; 1.0-30.0% of emollient; 5.0 to 20.0 percent of humectant; 3.0-10.0% of skin conditioner; 0.1 to 0.6 percent of pH regulator; 0.1 to 1.0 percent of preservative; 24.4 to 90 percent of water. The invention reasonably mixes the Chimaphila umbellate leaf extract and 1,2-pentanediol according to a specific proportion to obtain the whitening composition which can be applied to cosmetics, such as whitening essence. The Chimaphila umbellata leaf extract can reduce the activity of tyrosinase in human skin and reduce the formation of melanin, and 1,2-pentanediol can enhance the delivery capacity of other components in a cosmetic formula, thereby enhancing the use effect of the cosmetic. Therefore, under the compound scheme provided by the invention, the eriosema chinense leaf extract, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-pentanediol are combined to promote the transdermal absorption of the eriosema chinense leaf extract and enhance the whitening effect of the eriosema chinense leaf extract. 1,2-pentanediol does not damage the skin itself, thereby avoiding problems of slightly irritating conventional penetration enhancing components, or unsuitability for people with sensitive muscles.

Detailed Description

The invention provides a whitening composition, a preparation method and application. In order that the invention may be more readily understood, reference will now be made to the following more particular description of the invention, examples of which are set forth below. This invention may, however, be embodied in many different forms and should not be construed as limited to the embodiments set forth herein. These embodiments are provided so that this disclosure will be thorough and complete. The various starting materials used in the examples are, unless otherwise indicated, conventional commercial products.

Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. The terminology used in the description of the invention herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the invention. As used herein, the term "and/or" includes any and all combinations of one or more of the associated listed items.

The numerical values set forth in the examples of the present invention are approximations, not necessarily values. All values within the error range may be included without being limited to the specific values disclosed in the embodiments of the present invention where the error or experimental conditions allow.

The numerical ranges disclosed in the examples of the present invention are intended to indicate the relative amounts of the components in the mixture and the ranges of temperatures or other parameters recited in the other method examples.

The invention provides a whitening composition, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

0.5-5.0% of Chimaphila umbellata leaf extract;

1,2-pentanediol 0.1-3.0%;

0.1 to 4.0 percent of emulsifier;

0.1 to 2.0 percent of thickening agent;

1.0-30.0% of emollient;

5.0 to 20.0 percent of humectant;

3.0-10.0% of skin conditioner;

0.1 to 0.6 percent of pH regulator;

0.1 to 1.0 percent of preservative;

24.4 to 90 percent of water.

In this embodiment, the eriosema umbellata leaf extract and 1,2-pentanediol are reasonably mixed according to a specific ratio to obtain the whitening composition, which can be applied to cosmetics, such as whitening essence. The Chimaphila umbellata leaf extract can reduce the activity of the complex aminase in human skin and reduce the formation of melanin. However, the efficacy of the product is limited by the absorbability due to the limited transdermal absorption of the Chimaphila umbellate leaf extract, and the research shows that 1,2-pentanediol can enhance the delivery capacity of other components in the formula of the cosmetic, so that the using effect of the cosmetic is enhanced. Therefore, under the compound scheme provided by the invention, the eriosema chinense leaf extract, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-pentanediol are combined to promote the transdermal absorption of the eriosema chinense leaf extract and enhance the whitening effect of the eriosema chinense leaf extract.

Wherein Chimaphila umbellata, also known as Chimaphila umbellata, is a species of wintergreen family of wintergreen genus, a evergreen herbaceous shrub. The seed leaves are inverted egg-shaped, long wedge-shaped or spoon-shaped and inverted needle-shaped, and coarse sawteeth are arranged on the upper edge of the middle part; the sepals are round and oval, have the length of 1.5-2 mm, have round and blunt front ends, and are easy to identify. Mainly distributed in northern areas of china: jilin, liaoning and Neimeng. The Chimaphila umbellata is a common Chinese medicament, and has peculiar effect on treating a plurality of diseases. An extract of Chimaphila umbellata (CHIMAPHILA UMBELLATA) leaf is a product of Guangzhou Shanghi chemical company Limited, contains arbutin, homoarbutin, isohomoarbutin, ursolic acid, gallic acid, quinic acid, chimaphilanin and nipagin, and has effects of resisting oxidation, inhibiting melanin, and whitening skin.

1,2 pentanediol, sold under the trade name A-leen5, is the product of Minasolve. 1,2-pentanediol is an oleophilic and hydrophilic molecular structure that acts on the intercellular lipid pathway, allowing the lipids between the stratum corneum of the skin to temporarily open up, thereby allowing more of the water soluble components that are not accessible to the skin. The skin can not be damaged, thereby avoiding the problems that the conventional penetration-promoting component has slightly larger irritation or the sensitive muscle group is not suitable, and the like. Can improve the penetration effect of water soluble components into stratum corneum, and enhance the use effect of cosmetic.

Specifically, the emulsifier is selected from one or more of steareth-21, hydrogenated lecithin, glyceryl stearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, ceteareth-20, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-20, caprylic/capric glyceride polyglycerol-10 esters.

Further, the thickener is selected from one or more of SCLEROTIUM rolfsii (SCLEROTIUM ROLFSSII) gum, carbomer, xanthan gum, sodium acrylate copolymer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, TAMARINDUS INDICA (TAMARINDUS INDICA) seed polysaccharide, and Chondrus CRISPUS (Chondrus CRISPUS) powder.

Further, the emollient is selected from one or more of cetostearyl alcohol, squalane, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, polydimethylsiloxane, cyclomethicone, octylmethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isomeric hexadecane, ethylene glycol palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, mineral oil, prinsepia utilis royle (PRINSEPIA UTILIS) oil, octyldodecanol, SHOREA STENOPTERA (SHOREA STENOPTERA) seedfat, olive (OLEA EUROPAEA) fruit oil, isopropyl myristate, phenyl methicone, rice (ORYZA SATIVA) bran oil.

Further, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, diglycerin, butanediol, 1,3-propylene glycol, betaine, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, methyl propylene glycol, urea, hydroxyethyl urea, sodium polyglutamate, panthenol and levan.

Further, the skin conditioning agent is selected from one or more of bisabolol, tocopherol (vitamin E), trehalose, beta-glucan, niacinamide, sodium polyaspartate, glycerol glucoside, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, asiaticoside, matrine, purslane (Portulaca OLERACEA) extract, carnosine, acetyl chitosamine, sodium polyglutamate, lactobacillus fermentation lysate, and pomegranate (PUNICA GRANATUM) fruit extract.

Further, the pH regulator is selected from one or more of triethanolamine, potassium hydroxide, arginine, sodium hydroxide, citric acid and sodium citrate.

Further, the antiseptic is selected from one or more of methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, hexamidine di (isethionic acid) salt, and benzyl alcohol

The whitening composition further includes a solvent including water. Convenient material obtaining and low cost. The addition amount of the solvent is the balance of the total addition amount in percentage by mass of the whitening composition.

The invention reasonably mixes the Chimaphila umbellate leaf extract and 1,2-pentanediol according to a specific proportion to obtain the whitening composition which can be applied to cosmetics, such as whitening essence. The Chimaphila umbellata leaf extract can reduce the activity of tyrosinase in human skin and reduce the formation of melanin, and 1,2-pentanediol can enhance the delivery capacity of other components in a cosmetic formula, thereby enhancing the use effect of the cosmetic. Therefore, under the compound scheme provided by the invention, the eriosemachinense leaf extract, 1,2-pentanediol and 1,2-pentanediol are combined to promote the transdermal absorption of the eriosemachinense leaf extract and enhance the whitening effect of the eriosemachinense leaf extract. 1,2-pentanediol does not damage the skin itself, thereby avoiding the problems of slightly more irritating conventional penetration enhancing components, or unsuitability for people with sensitive muscles, and the like.

The whitening composition provided by the invention can be applied to various product forms of whitening cosmetics, and has the characteristics of simple preparation method, wide application and capability of meeting market demands.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENT (S) OF INVENTION

Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 3, but those skilled in the art will appreciate that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.

According to the content of each component in the following table 1, the whitening essence liquids of the examples 1-3 and the comparative examples 1-3 are prepared according to the total weight parts.

TABLE 1

The preparation methods of the whitening essence solutions in the above examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 3 include the following steps:

s1: adding water, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, sclerotium rolfsii gum, xanthan gum, methylparaben, butanediol, methyl propylene glycol and trehalose into a vacuum emulsifying pot according to the mass percentage, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, fully and uniformly stirring to obtain a phase A raw material, and keeping the phase A raw material at a constant temperature for later use;

s2: adding octyl dodecanol, isomeric hexadecane, bisabolol and rice bran oil into an oil pan, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, fully and uniformly stirring to obtain a B-phase raw material, and keeping the temperature of the B-phase raw material for later use;

s3: pumping the B-phase raw material into a vacuum emulsifying pot containing the A-phase raw material, uniformly mixing and stirring, homogenizing and emulsifying for 5-8 minutes, fully and uniformly stirring, stirring at constant temperature for defoaming for 10 minutes, and cooling to obtain a first mixed solution;

s4: cooling the first mixed solution to below 40 ℃, adding a C-phase raw material prepared from dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, arginine, glycerol glucoside, beta-glucan, an eriosema chinense leaf extract and/or 1,2-pentanediol according to mass percentage, uniformly stirring, and continuously cooling to obtain a second mixed solution;

s5: and cooling the second mixed solution to below 35 ℃, adding a D-phase raw material containing phenoxyethanol, fully and uniformly stirring, discharging, and standing to obtain the whitening composition.

Test example I, physical and chemical index detection

And testing the physicochemical indexes of the prepared whitening essence according to QB/T2660. The results are as follows:

1. appearance: white or yellowish translucent mucus.

2. pH value: 5.5-6.8.

3. Investigation of heat resistance stability: keeping the temperature at (40 +/-1) ℃ for 24h, and ensuring that no obvious character difference exists between the temperature after the temperature is restored to the room temperature and the temperature before the test, so that the product is qualified.

4. And (3) cold resistance stability investigation: keeping the temperature at (5 +/-1) ℃ for 24h, and ensuring that no obvious property difference exists between the product after the product is restored to the room temperature and the product before the test, and the product is qualified.

Test example two, application Performance test

1) And (3) product safety test:

the skin care compositions obtained in examples and comparative examples were subjected to a human patch test according to the method described in technical specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

The experimental population is as follows: total 36, 30 women, 6 men, age 21-59, 6 per group, composite subject volunteer enrollment criteria;

the test method comprises the following steps: the selection area is not more than 50mm ² A suitable spot tester with a depth of about 1mm, and adding about 0.020-0.025ml of the test object into the spot tester by a closed spot test method; the plaque test device is pasted on the curved side of the forearm of a subject, the subject is removed after 24h, the skin reaction is observed for 0.5h, 24h and 48h after the removal respectively, and the result is recorded according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

And (3) test results: the 36 subjects scored 0 at 3 observation time points 0.5h, 24h, 48h after removal of the patch (negative response).

2) And (3) product efficacy test:

test of whitening Effect

(1) Taking the example and comparative example cosmetics;

(2) The test population: 120 testers with average age of 25-35 years; wherein 40 men and 80 women have healthy and non-damaged skin; each example and comparative example had 20 subjects. Selecting the left and right cheekbones of the face of a subject, the left and right cheeks at the intersection of the nose tip and the pupil, and the left and right sides at the intersection of the temple and the mouth corner as test areas;

(3) Firstly, a blank value of an experimental part before the cosmetic is applied is measured by a technician by using a skin melanin tester (Mexa meter MX 18) of Germany CK company, five times are measured at each point, and an average value is taken;

(4) The subjects measured the data of the experimental sites using a skin melanin tester (Mexamete r MX 18) five times per spot, and averaged once a day, morning and night, after one, two, three, and four consecutive weeks using the example and comparative cosmetics;

(5) And (4) counting the average value of the values measured at each time of the experimental part of the subject, and analyzing the change rule of the MI value, thereby determining the whitening efficacy of the cosmetics of the examples and the comparative examples.

Test data: after four weeks (28 days) of use of the product, the statistics are shown in table 2:

TABLE 2

Examples are examples with different ratios of Chimaphila umbellata leaf extract and 1,2-pentanediol added; comparative example 1 was supplemented with 1,2-pentanediol, comparative example 2 was supplemented with Chimaphila umbellate leaf extract, and comparative example 3 was a blank control. As shown in table 2, from the test results, it can be seen that: the melanin value was in a decreasing trend but the decreasing trend was not significant after analysis from the instrumental test data using the comparative example. After the analysis of instrument test data, the reduction of melanin value is obvious after the composition is used for 4 weeks, which shows that the synergistic whitening effect of the eriosema chinense leaf extract and the 1,2-pentanediol product is obvious and is obviously better than that of the eriosema chinense leaf extract or 1,2-pentanediol which is used independently.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and all modifications and equivalents of the present invention, which are made by the present specification and directly/indirectly applied to other related technical fields within the spirit of the present invention are included in the scope of the present invention.

The above description of the embodiments is only intended to facilitate the understanding of the method of the invention and its core idea. It should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, without departing from the principle of the present invention, it is possible to make various improvements and modifications to the present invention, and those improvements and modifications also fall within the scope of the claims of the present invention.

The previous description of the disclosed embodiments is provided to enable any person skilled in the art to make or use the present invention. Various modifications to these embodiments will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, and the generic principles defined herein may be applied to other embodiments without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, the present invention is not intended to be limited to the embodiments shown herein but is to be accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and novel features disclosed herein.

Claims (2)

1. A whitening composition, characterized by comprising, in mass percent:

eriosema umbellata leaf extract: 0.5 to 5.0 percent;

1,2-pentanediol: 0.1 to 3.0 percent;

PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate: 0.6 to 1.8 percent;

sclerotium rolfsii gum: 0.1 to 0.3 percent;

xanthan gum: 0.1 to 0.2 percent;

octyl dodecanol: 0.1-3%;

rice bran oil: 1 to 3 percent;

methyl hydroxybenzoate: 0.01 to 0.2 percent;

trehalose: 1 to 2 percent;

bisabolol: 0.05 to 0.25 percent;

dipotassium glycyrrhizinate: 1 to 2 percent;

glycerol glucoside: 1 to 2 percent;

beta-glucan: 1 to 3 percent;

arginine: 0.01 to 0.08 percent;

phenoxyethanol: 0.4-0.9%;

water: the balance;

the preparation method of the whitening composition comprises the following specific preparation steps:

adding water, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, potassium cetyl phosphate, sclerotium rolfsii gum, xanthan gum, methylparaben, butanediol, methyl propylene glycol and trehalose into a vacuum emulsifying pot according to the mass percentage, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, fully and uniformly stirring to obtain a phase A raw material, and keeping the phase A raw material at a constant temperature for later use;

adding octyl dodecanol, isomeric hexadecane, bisabolol and rice bran oil into an oil pan, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, fully and uniformly stirring to obtain a B-phase raw material, and keeping the temperature of the B-phase raw material for later use;

pumping the phase B raw material into a vacuum emulsifying pot containing the phase A raw material, mixing and stirring uniformly, homogenizing and emulsifying for 5-8 minutes, fully and uniformly stirring, stirring at constant temperature for defoaming for 10 minutes, and cooling to obtain a first mixed solution;

cooling the first mixed solution to below 40 ℃, adding a C-phase raw material prepared from dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, erythritol, arginine, glycerol glucoside, beta-glucan, an eriosema chinense leaf extract and 1,2-pentanediol according to mass percent, uniformly stirring, and continuously cooling to obtain a second mixed solution;

and cooling the second mixed solution to below 35 ℃, adding a D-phase raw material containing phenoxyethanol, fully and uniformly stirring, discharging, and standing to obtain the whitening composition.

2. Use of the whitening composition according to claim 1 in a skin care product, wherein the whitening composition is added in the skin care product in an amount of 0.6-8.0% by mass.