CN109350579B - Whitening cosmetic additive, whitening skin-refreshing lotion and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Whitening cosmetic additive, whitening skin-refreshing lotion and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN109350579B
CN109350579B CN201811625255.1A CN201811625255A CN109350579B CN 109350579 B CN109350579 B CN 109350579B CN 201811625255 A CN201811625255 A CN 201811625255A CN 109350579 B CN109350579 B CN 109350579B
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extract
whitening
skin
addition amount
refreshing
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CN109350579A (en
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杨登亮
林盛杰
戴嘉彬
刘德海
马静蓉
张伟杰
张楚标
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Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd
Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
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GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICAL PLANT
Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd
Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
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    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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Abstract

The invention provides a whitening cosmetic additive, a whitening skin-refreshing lotion and a preparation method thereof. The whitening cosmetic additive comprises radix Puerariae extract and folium Platycladi extract; wherein the addition amount of the kudzu root extract is 0.5-80% and the addition amount of the cacumen biotae extract is 20-99.5% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive. The additive for whitening cosmetics has excellent inhibition effect on tyrosinase activity and no side effect on human bodies. Furthermore, the formula of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion is mild, and the activity of tyrosinase can be effectively inhibited, so that the whitening effect is achieved.

Description

Whitening cosmetic additive, whitening skin-refreshing lotion and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to a whitening cosmetic additive, a whitening skin-refreshing lotion and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the field of cosmetics.
Background
Facial pigmentation is a skin problem of great concern. Chloasma, freckles and melanin deposits affect the appearance, thereby causing troubles to people. Whitening additives can reduce the deposition of black or reduce the skin color, and chinese women are increasingly pursuing fair skin, so that the demand of whitening cosmetics is continuously increasing.
Most of the existing whitening additives in the prior art are organic compounds, and the substances have irritation to skin, large side effect, increased harm to human bodies and reduced safety factor; in addition, a single plant extract is also adopted as a whitening additive, but the plant extract has a single whitening component, a single action mechanism and an unobvious whitening effect.
Patent application document CN101904809A discloses a whitening composition containing cortex mori extract, chamomile extract, rhodiola rosea extract, grape seed extract, pueraria extract, morus alba extract, arbutin, kojic acid dipalmitate, niacinamide, tetrahydrocurcumin, a humectant and a preservative, which can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase to some extent, thereby blocking melanin transport and inhibiting melanin formation. However, it contains organic compounds kojic acid dipalmitate enzyme and nicotinamide, and is harmful to human body.
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
In view of the problems of poor effect, poor whitening effect and the like of the Chinese herbal medicine whitening and freckle removing preparation in the prior art, the invention firstly provides a whitening cosmetic additive. The additive for whitening cosmetics has excellent inhibition effect on tyrosinase activity and no side effect on human bodies.
Furthermore, the invention also provides a whitening and skin-refreshing lotion which is mild in formula and can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, thereby having the whitening effect.
Furthermore, the invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion, which is simple to operate and easy to obtain raw materials.
Means for solving the problems
The invention provides a whitening cosmetic additive, which comprises a kudzu root extract and a cacumen biotae extract; wherein the addition amount of the kudzu root extract is 0.5-80% and the addition amount of the cacumen biotae extract is 20-99.5% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive.
The whitening cosmetic additive provided by the invention is characterized in that the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the cacumen biotae extract is 1: 0.2 to 75, preferably 1: 0.3 to 70, more preferably 1: 0.5 to 65, and more preferably 1:1 to 60, and more preferably 1:2 to 55, and more preferably 1: 3 to 50.
The invention also provides a whitening skin-refreshing lotion, which comprises the whitening cosmetic additive; the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is 0.01-20% of the total mass of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion.
The whitening skin-refreshing lotion further comprises one or more of a humectant, a thickening agent, grease, an emulsifier, a solubilizer, a skin conditioner, a soothing agent, an antioxidant, a pH regulator, a chelating agent, a preservative and an aromatic;
wherein the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% based on the total mass of the whitening and refreshing lotion; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-5%; the addition amount of the grease is 1-10%; the addition amount of the emulsifier is 0.01-2%; the addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0.05-2%; the addition amount of the pH regulator is 0-1%; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1%; the addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5%; the addition amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5%.
The whitening and refreshing lotion comprises one or more of dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, butanediol, glycerin, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, betaine and trehalose.
The whitening and skin-refreshing lotion comprises one or more of cyclopentadimethyl siloxane, oleyl erucate, shea butter, ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclohexasiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, C20-24 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane, C13-14 isoparaffin and C12-15 alcohol benzoate.
The whitening and skin-refreshing lotion comprises one or more of polysorbate-20, polysorbate-60, sorbitan isostearate, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, laureth-7 and isosteareth-20; and/or
The antioxidant comprises one or more of vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxytoluene, lycopene, and ascorbic acid ethyl ether.
The whitening skin-refreshing lotion comprises one or two of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and PPG-26-butanol polyether-26; and/or
The thickening agent comprises one or more of polydimethylsiloxane/cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, xanthan gum, behenyl alcohol, polyacrylamide, PEG-100 stearate, carbomer, acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer and hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer.
The whitening skin refreshing lotion comprises one or the combination of more than two of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, ceramide 2, macroalgae extract, oat peptide, fucus extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, beta-glucan, chlorella fermentation product, hydrolyzed collagen, green algae extract, rhodophyta extract, brown algae extract, hamamelis virginiana flower water, allantoin, mistletoe ginkgo leaf extract, lalang grass rhizome extract, ethanol, magnesium aspartate and cactus extract; and/or
The soothing agent comprises one or more of bisabolol, ginger root extract, aloe vera extract, centella asiatica extract, purslane extract, evening primrose oil, andrographis paniculata leaf extract, and hamamelis virginiana flower water.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The additive for whitening cosmetics has excellent inhibition effect on tyrosinase activity and no side effect on human bodies.
Furthermore, the formula of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion is mild, and the activity of tyrosinase can be effectively inhibited, so that the whitening effect is achieved.
Furthermore, the preparation method of the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion is simple to operate, easily obtains raw materials, and can be produced in batch.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the relationship between logarithmic mass concentration and tyrosinase inhibition rate of the extract of Pueraria lobata of comparative examples 1 to 5 of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the log mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition efficiency of the cacumen biotae extracts of comparative examples 6 to 10 of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the log mass concentration of a whitening cosmetic additive in the skin refreshing lotion of examples 1-6 of the present invention versus tyrosinase inhibition;
fig. 4 is a graph showing the relationship between the content of pueraria lobata extract and the interaction coefficient in the whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 6 according to the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a graph showing a comparison of the melanin change rates of application examples 1 to 8 and application comparative examples 1 to 2 of the present invention.
Detailed Description
Various exemplary embodiments, features and aspects of the invention will be described in detail below. The word "exemplary" is used exclusively herein to mean "serving as an example, embodiment, or illustration. Any embodiment described herein as "exemplary" is not necessarily to be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments.
Furthermore, in the following detailed description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a better understanding of the present invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced without some of these specific details. In other instances, methods, means, devices and steps which are well known to those skilled in the art have not been described in detail so as not to obscure the invention.
First embodiment
A first embodiment of the present invention provides a whitening cosmetic additive, which includes a pueraria extract and a thuja extract. The whitening cosmetic additive has the effect of inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase.
Radix Puerariae is dried root of Pueraria lobata (wild Ohwi) or Pueraria thomsonii Benth (Pueraria thomsonii Benth) of Leguminosae, which is also known as radix Puerariae. China has 11 kinds of Pueraria plants in total, and the Pueraria starch is mainly cultivated artificially, and the rest is mainly wild. The Chinese pharmacopoeia (1990 edition) contains two Pueraria plants, i.e., Pueraria and Pueraria.
The kudzu root mainly comprises the following components: starch, cellulose, protein and total flavonoids, and further contains small amount of fat, pectin, tannin, alkaloid, etc. The starch of kudzu root contains 11 amino acids and 11 mineral elements, wherein the microelements necessary for human body include Fe, Cu, Zn, Mn, Si, etc. The pueraria flavonid contains isoflavone component, which is the main active component of pueraria.
The kudzu root extract is generally used as an anti-aging cosmetic component, can smooth the face, has the efficacy of removing acne and wrinkles, and has the mechanism related to that kudzu root isoflavones have the functions of resisting oxidation and enhancing the immunity of the organism. The radix Puerariae isoflavone has effects of scavenging oxygen free radicals and resisting lipid peroxidation, and can significantly inhibit erythrocyte hemolysis caused by oxidative damage, and inhibit active oxygen (-OH, O) to microsome2-The product can improve the activity strength of SOD in vivo and regulate the balance of oxygen free radicals and free radical scavenger in vivo, so that radix Puerariae has good anti-aging effect.
Cacumen biotae (Cacumen Platycladi) is abundant in resources, and can be harvested all the year round, preferably harvested in summer and autumn. The collection method is very simple, generally, big branches are cut off, small branch leaves are taken after drying, the small branch leaves are bundled into small bundles, and the small branch leaves are placed in a ventilated place for air drying, but the collection method is not suitable for solarization.
The main components of the cacumen biotae extract are volatile oil, flavone, boots and the like. The cacumen Platycladi volatile oil mainly contains alpha-pinene, cedrol, alpha-thujone, cuminone, caryophyllene, beta-pinene, terpineol acetate, isocaryophyllene, alpha-caryophyllene, etc. The cacumen biotae volatile oil and the alcohol extract have strong inhibition effect on most bacteria and phytopathogen. The cedrol in the volatile oil component has strong anti-lung cancer cell activity and the like.
The flavonoids of cacumen Platycladi include fructus Citri Junoris essence, quercetin, myricetin, kaempferol, hinokiflavone, neocedar biflavone, amentoflavone, etc., wherein the content of quercetin is highest. The hemostatic effect of the cacumen biotae is that quercetin has good capillary fragility resistance and hemostatic effect, and the quercetin has inhibitory effect on platelet aggregation and thrombosis caused by collagen or thrombin.
In addition, cacumen Platycladi tannin also has effects of contracting capillary vessel and promoting blood coagulation, and can be used for stopping bleeding.
The composition of the kudzu root extract and the biota orientalis extract has a synergistic effect, and can further play a role in inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. In the invention, the addition amount of the kudzu root extract is 0.5-80% and the addition amount of the cacumen biotae extract is 80-99.5% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive.
In the invention, the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the cacumen biotae extract is 1: 0.2 to 75, preferably 1: 0.3 to 70, more preferably 1: 0.5 to 65, and more preferably 1:1 to 60, and more preferably 1:2 to 55, and more preferably 1: 3 to 50. When the mass ratio of the pueraria extract to the biota orientalis extract is within the above range, a synergistic effect can be further exhibited, and the tyrosinase activity inhibiting effect is excellent.
Second embodiment
The second embodiment of the invention provides a whitening and skin-refreshing lotion containing the whitening cosmetic additive of the first embodiment, and the whitening cosmetic additive can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase by adding a proper content, so that the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion has an excellent whitening effect.
Wherein the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is 0.01-20% of the total mass of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion. Preferably 0.1 to 15%, for example: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 8%, 10%, 12%, etc. When the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is between 0.01 and 20 percent, the content of melanin in the skin after the whitening skin-refreshing lotion is used is reduced. When the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is less than 0.01%, the reduction amount of melanin content is small, and the whitening effect cannot be achieved; when the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is more than 20%, the content of the whitening cosmetic additive is too high, the cost is too high, and the corresponding whitening effect is not obviously improved.
The whitening skin-refreshing lotion further comprises one or the combination of more than two of a humectant, a thickening agent, grease, an emulsifier, a solubilizer, a skin conditioner, a soothing agent, an antioxidant, a pH regulator, a chelating agent, a preservative and an aromatic. The formula of the whitening and refreshing lotion is mild, so that the effects of the whitening cosmetic additive can be fully exerted. Specifically, the method comprises the following steps:
the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% of the total mass of the whitening and refreshing lotion. When the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%, the humectant can play a role in moisturizing and hydrating. In order to further exert the efficacy of the moisturizer, the amount of the moisturizer of the present invention added is preferably 1 to 18%, 2 to 16%, 3 to 14%, 4 to 13%, 5 to 12%, or the like. When the content of the humectant is less than 0.01%, the moisturizing effect is not obvious; when the content of the humectant is more than 20%, the whitening and refreshing lotion has a sticky feeling.
In the invention, the humectant comprises one or a combination of more than two of dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, betaine and trehalose. The combination of a plurality of humectants is used, so that the whitening and refreshing lotion has excellent moisturizing performance.
The addition amount of the grease is 1-10% of the total mass of the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion. For example: the addition amount of the oil can be 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9% and the like. When the content of the oil is in the range of 1-10%, not only a hydrophobic film can be formed on the skin surface to prevent the invasion of external harmful substances, but also the evaporation of moisture on the skin surface can be inhibited to prevent the skin from drying and cracking. When the amount of the added oil is less than 1%, invasion of harmful substances cannot be effectively prevented; when the addition amount of the grease is more than 10%, the whitening and refreshing lotion is too greasy, and the use feeling is reduced.
In the invention, the grease comprises one or the combination of more than two of cyclopentadimethyl siloxane, oleyl erucate, shea butter, ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclohexasiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, C20-24 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane, C13-14 isoparaffin and C12-15 alcohol benzoate.
The addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-5%, preferably 0.05-4.5%, more preferably 0.1-4%, and even more preferably 0.5-3% of the total mass of the whitening and refreshing lotion. When the addition amount of the thickening agent is less than 0.02%, the whitening and refreshing lotion has thinner texture; when the addition amount of the thickening agent is more than 5%, the whitening and refreshing lotion is too thick and heavy, and the active ingredients of the whitening and refreshing lotion are not easy to be absorbed by skin.
In the invention, the thickening agent comprises one or the combination of more than two of polydimethylsiloxane/cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, xanthan gum, behenyl alcohol, polyacrylamide, PEG-100 stearate, carbomer, acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer and hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer.
The addition amount of the emulsifier is 0.01-2%, preferably 0.1-1.8% based on the total mass of the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion, for example: 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 1%, 1.2%, 1.4%, 1.6%, etc. When the dosage of the emulsifier is less than 0.01%, the emulsification is insufficient, so that the system is unstable; when the dosage of the emulsifier is more than 2%, the irritation of the product can be increased, and meanwhile, certain influence can be caused on the stability of the product.
In the present invention, the emulsifier includes one or a combination of two or more of polysorbate-20, polysorbate-60, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, laureth-7, isosteareth-20.
The addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5% based on the total mass of the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion. By adding the solubilizer, the raw materials of the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion can be dissolved more easily. Preferably, the solubilizer is added in an amount of 0.05-0.2%, 0.1-0.2%, etc. In the present invention, the solubilizer includes one or both of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and PPG-26-Butaneth-26.
In order to further improve the efficacy of the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion, the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion further comprises a skin conditioner. The generation of wrinkles can also be reduced by the addition of skin conditioning agents. The effective components in the skin conditioner can penetrate into the deep part of skin and be absorbed by skin, thereby improving the state of skin.
The addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0.01-5% of the total mass of the whitening and refreshing lotion. Preferably, the skin conditioning agent may be added in an amount of 0.1 to 4%, may be 0.5 to 3%, may be 0.8 to 2.5%, or the like. When the amount of the skin conditioner added is less than 0.01%, the corresponding effect cannot be achieved.
In the present invention, the skin conditioner comprises one or a combination of two or more of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, ceramide 2, macroalgae extract, oat peptide, fucus extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, beta-glucan, chlorella fermentation product, hydrolyzed collagen, green algae extract, rhodophyta extract, brown algae extract, hamamelis water, allantoin, ginkgo mistletoe leaf extract, cogongrass rhizome extract, ethanol, magnesium aspartate, and cactus extract.
Wherein the avenin is a fragment of avenin and a component of avenin. Oat protein has unique function, and the amino acid species balance of oat protein is far superior to other grains. After the oat protein is decomposed, small molecular peptides with high quality can be generated, and the small molecular peptides are easy to be absorbed by skin. The oat peptide has the effects of resisting oxidation, increasing skin activity, delaying skin aging, moisturizing, reducing wrinkles, resisting allergy and the like.
Wherein the hydrolyzed wheat protein contains gliadin (gliadin) and glutenin (glutenin) as amino acids, and cystine (cystine). The hydrolyzed wheat protein has effects of keeping moisture, resisting oxidation, softening and refining skin, and improving wrinkle.
Wherein the kelp extract is derived from kelp. The kelp has high content of natural plant protein through mass propagation of kelp cells. The giant kelp extract has the effects of supplementing cell nutrition and effectively preserving moisture.
The ceramide 2 can be used for improving the sebum membrane and inhibiting the secretion of active sebaceous glands, so that the skin is balanced in water and oil, the self-protection function of the skin is enhanced, and the skin care cream is suitable for the young skin which is greasy and has requirements. The composition has good effects in moisturizing and repairing skin, is an important skin-activating component in horny layer, and can enhance skin barrier and rebuild cells.
In addition, the whitening and refreshing lotion can also be added with a soothing agent. By adding the allergy relieving agent, the skin can be calmed, so that the skin has certain allergy relieving effect on the injury red swelling of the facial skin, and the skin can be helped to resist inflammation, relieve and promote cell repair.
The addition amount of the soothing agent is 0.01-5% of the total mass of the whitening and refreshing lotion, and can be 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3% and the like. When the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is less than 0.01 percent, the allergy relieving effect is not obvious. When the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is more than 5%, the further allergy relieving effect cannot be achieved, and the cost is too high.
The soothing agent comprises one or more of hamamelis virginiana water, ginger root extract, chamomile extract, purslane extract, centella asiatica extract, ginger root extract, bisabolol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.
The hamamelis virginiana flower water in the soothing agent belongs to high-concentration plant original dew, has light herbal fragrance, and has the effects of controlling oil, conditioning, astringing, tightening pores, removing stasis and relieving swelling. Can be used for caring skin and soothing skin.
The addition amount of the antioxidant is 0.05-2% of the total mass of the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion, for example: the antioxidant may be added in an amount of 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.5%, 0.8%, 1.0%, 1.2%, 1.5%, 1.8%, etc. The invention can remove free radicals, protect skin, reduce the damage of ultraviolet rays to skin, promote wound healing, prevent inflammation and prevent skin roughness and chap by adding a proper amount of antioxidant. The antioxidant can be one or more of vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxytoluene, lycopene, etc.
The addition amount of the pH regulator is 0-1% of the total mass of the whitening and skin-refreshing lotion; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1%. The pH regulator comprises one or more of aminomethyl propanol, arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, and sodium hydroxide. The chelating agent may be EDTA-2Na and/or EDTA-4Na, etc.
In addition, the addition amount of the preservative in the whitening and refreshing lotion is 0.01-1.5% based on the total mass of the whitening and refreshing lotion; the addition amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5%. The preservative can comprise one or the combination of more than two of phenoxyethanol, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, benzoic acid and salts thereof. The aromatic may be a perfume, etc.
The whitening and refreshing lotion is in a gel shape, can whiten the skin, and has a certain refreshing effect. The whitening and skin-refreshing lotion can relieve the conditions of darkness, looseness, no luster and the like of the skin. In addition, the whitening and refreshing lotion can play a role in moisturizing, tightening and activating the skin, and condition the skin to a good state.
Third embodiment
The third embodiment of the invention provides a preparation method of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion of the second embodiment, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion.
Specifically, the preparation method of the whitening and refreshing lotion comprises the following steps:
1. adding thickener, oil, antioxidant, part of emulsifier, part of antiseptic, and part of skin conditioner into emulsifying pot, stirring, and heating to 75-85 deg.C for dissolving completely;
2. adding water, humectant, optional chelating agent, optional pH regulator, and the rest emulsifier into water phase pot, stirring, and heating to 75-85 deg.C for dissolving completely;
3. slowly pumping the water phase substances in the water phase pot into an emulsifying pot, stirring, homogenizing, vacuum emulsifying, and keeping the temperature of the emulsifying pot at 75-85 deg.C;
4. cooling to 40-50 deg.C, adding solubilizer, aromatic, whitening cosmetic additive, soothing agent, residual skin conditioner and residual antiseptic, and stirring;
5. cooling to 30-40 ℃, discharging, and standing for 12-28 hours;
6. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Examples
Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but those skilled in the art will appreciate that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.
Comparative examples 1 to 5
Taking radix Puerariae extract as whitening cosmetic additive. The puerariae radix extract was dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffers with different volumes and pH 6.8 to obtain 5 sets of test solutions with different concentrations. The logarithmic mass concentration of the pueraria lobata extract when tested in vitro is shown in table 2 below.
Comparative examples 6 to 10
Folium Platycladi extract is used as whitening cosmetic additive. The cacumen biotae extract was dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having pH 6.8 in volumes corresponding to comparative examples 1 to 5 to obtain 5 sets of test solutions having concentrations corresponding to comparative examples 1 to 5. The logarithmic mass concentrations of the cacumen biotae extract when tested in vitro are shown in table 2 below.
Examples 1 to 6
Taking radix Puerariae extract and folium Platycladi extract as whitening cosmetic additive. The whitening cosmetic additive is obtained by mixing the kudzu root extract and the biota orientalis leaf extract according to the mass ratio of 2:1 (example 1), 1:1 (example 2), 1:2 (example 3), 15:85 (example 4), 5:95 (example 5) and 2:98 (example 6). The whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 5 were dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having a pH of 6.8 corresponding to the volumes of comparative examples 1 to 5, respectively, and the whitening cosmetic additive of example 6 was dissolved in 4 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having a pH of 6.8 corresponding to the volumes of comparative examples 1 to 4, respectively. Examples 1-6 all gave test solutions of 5 (or 4) sets at concentrations corresponding to comparative examples 1-5 (or comparative examples 1-4). Wherein, in the whitening cosmetic additive, the contents (% by mass) of the pueraria extract and the thuja orientalis extract are shown in the following table 1, and when in vitro test is performed, the logarithmic mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive is shown in the following table 3.
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0001927852380000121
In vitro testing
Tyrosinase activity is measured as the tyrosinase activity that catalyzes the production of dopaquinone from L-dopa. The method specifically comprises the following steps:
taking 1 test tube, adding 0.4mL (1.0mg/mL) of substrate L-dopa solution, adding 2.4mL of phosphate buffer solution with pH of 6.8, carrying out water bath at 30 ℃ for 10min, and then adding 0.2mL (250U/mL) of tyrosinase to obtain reaction solution 1.
After taking 1 tube, 0.2mL (250U/mL) of tyrosinase was added, and 2.8mL of a phosphate buffer solution having a pH of 6.8 was added to the tube, thereby obtaining a reaction solution 2.
0.4mL (1.0mg/mL) of the substrate L-dopa solution was added to each of 39 tubes, and then 2.4mL of the test solutions of comparative examples 1 to 10 and examples 1 to 6 was added, and after incubation in a water bath at 30 ℃ for 10 minutes, the amount of tyrosinase was then added in an amount of 0.2mL (250U/mL), to obtain a reaction solution 3.
After 2.4mL of the test solutions of comparative examples 1 to 10 and examples 1 to 6 were added to 39 tubes, respectively, and 0.4mL of phosphate buffer solution having a pH of 6.8 was added, and the mixture was incubated in a 30 ℃ water bath for 10 minutes, an amount of tyrosinase of 0.2mL (250U/mL) was added to obtain a reaction solution 4.
The enzymatic reaction converts L-dopa to the red product dopaquinone, with maximum absorption at 475 nm. Read the absorbance A at 475nm 1min from the start of the mixing475The rate of the enzymatic reaction is defined as A per minute475Is indicated by an increased value of (a). The absorbance A at 475nm of the above reaction solution at 1min from the start of the reaction was measured, and the inhibition of tyrosinase activity was calculated according to the following formulaAnd (4) rate. Wherein, the mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive in the table is the final mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive in the test system.
Inhibition rate ═ 1- (A)3-A4)/(A1-A2)]×100%
In the formula: a. the1Absorbance when only the substrate is contained without adding a whitening cosmetic additive;
A2the absorbance when no whitening cosmetic additive is added and no substrate is added;
A3is the absorbance when the whitening cosmetic additive and the substrate are contained;
A4is the absorbance when the cosmetic additive contains whitening cosmetic additive and no substrate is added.
The inhibition rates of the tyrosinase activities of the pueraria lobata extract (comparative examples 1 to 5) and the thuja orientalis extract (comparative examples 6 to 10) were calculated, respectively. And calculating the corresponding mass concentration (IC) when the inhibition rate of radix Puerariae extract is 50% by combining with the relation graph of logarithmic mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition rate50A) The mass concentration (IC) corresponding to 50% inhibition ratio of cacumen Platycladi extract50B) The results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0001927852380000141
Then, the inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity by the whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 6 was measured. And calculating the mass concentration (IC) of radix Puerariae extract when the combined action of radix Puerariae extract and folium Platycladi extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50%) by combining the logarithmic mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition rate relationship diagram50a) Mass concentration (IC) of cacumen Platycladi extract when radix Puerariae extract and cacumen Platycladi extract act in combination to generate equivalent inhibition rate (50%)50b) The results are shown in Table 3.
The effect of the combined action of the pueraria extract and the biota orientalis extract can be evaluated by the interaction coefficient γ, and the specific results are shown in table 3.
γ=IC50a/IC50A+IC50b/IC50B
Wherein, IC50ARepresents the mass concentration corresponding to the inhibition rate of 50% of the kudzu root extract;
IC50Bthe mass concentration at which the inhibitory rate of the cacumen biotae extract is 50% is shown;
IC50athe mass concentration of the kudzu root extract shows that when the compound action of the kudzu root extract and the biota orientalis extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50%);
IC50brepresents the mass concentration of the cacumen biotae extract when the compound action of the radix puerariae extract and the cacumen biotae extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50%).
Wherein γ ═ 1, indicates that the puerariae extract and the biota orientalis extract exhibit a simple additive effect; gamma is less than 1, the kudzu root extract and the Chinese arborvitae twig extract show synergistic effect, and the smaller the gamma value is, the stronger the synergistic effect is; gamma is more than 1, the kudzu root extract and the cacumen biotae extract show antagonistic effect, and the larger the gamma value is, the larger the antagonistic effect is.
TABLE 3
Figure BDA0001927852380000151
As can be seen from table 3, the interaction coefficient of the whitening cosmetic additive of the present invention is less than 1, and the interaction coefficient value thereof may be 0.8 or less, so that the puerariae radix extract and the biota orientalis leaf extract may exhibit excellent synergistic effect.
Application examples 1 to 8
The whitening skin-refreshing lotion is prepared according to the content (mass percentage) of each component in the formula of the whitening skin-refreshing lotions of the application examples 1 to 8 in the following tables 4 to 5 and according to the following production process steps. The production process comprises the following steps:
the production process comprises the following steps:
1. adding phase A into an emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃ to fully dissolve the phase A;
2. adding phase B into water phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 deg.C for dissolving completely;
3. slowly pumping the B-phase substance in the water phase pot into an emulsifying pot, stirring, homogenizing, vacuum emulsifying, and keeping the temperature of the emulsifying pot at 80-85 deg.C;
4. cooling to 42 deg.C, adding phase C and phase D, and stirring;
5. cooling to 37 ℃, discharging, and standing for 24 hours;
6. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Note: the A, B, C, D phases in the process are respectively,
phase A: dimethicone/cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, cyclopentadimethicone, tocopheryl acetate, polysorbate-60, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, methylparaben, ceramide 2;
phase B: deionized water, butanediol, glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, sorbitan isostearate and polysorbate-20;
and C phase: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, essence;
phase D: radix Puerariae extract, folium Platycladi extract, Macrocystis extract, Hamamelis Virginiana flower water, hydrolyzed wheat protein, oat peptide, ethanol, beta-dextran, and phenoxyethanol.
Wherein, polydimethylsiloxane/cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer are thickening agents;
hydrogenated polyisobutene and cyclopentadecyl dimethyl siloxane are grease; tocopheryl acetate is an antioxidant;
polysorbate-60, sorbitan isostearate, and polysorbate-20 are emulsifier;
butanediol, glycerol, sodium hyaluronate and betaine are used as moisturizers;
ceramide 2, Macrocystis extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, oat peptide, ethanol, and beta-glucan are skin conditioners;
radix Puerariae extract and folium Platycladi extract are whitening cosmetic additives;
hamamelis virginiana flower water is a soothing sensitizer; PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is a solubilizer;
methyl hydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol are antiseptic; the essence is an aromatic;
in the invention, the kudzu root extract is prepared by the following steps: quzhou City exhibition-macro biotechnology Co., Ltd;
cacumen biotae extract, manufacturer: shanghai Hui Wen Biotech, Inc.
TABLE 4
Figure BDA0001927852380000181
Application of comparative examples 1 to 2
Skin-refreshing lotion was prepared according to the contents (mass percentages) of the components in the skin-refreshing lotion formulations of comparative application examples 1 to 2 in the following table 5 in the same manner as in application examples 1 to 8.
TABLE 5
Figure BDA0001927852380000191
Whitening efficacy test
Method for testing skin melanin change rate: the content of melanin in the skin is determined by measuring the reflection of light of a specific wavelength on the skin of a human body. The emitter of the probe emits light with three wavelengths of 568nm, 660nm and 880nm to the skin surface, the receiver measures the light reflected by the skin and measures the amount of light absorbed by the skin, so as to obtain the change rate of skin melanin.
The test of the skin melanin change rate is carried out by using a pigment detector of CK company in Germany, wherein a test probe MX 18 of the skin melanin consists of a light source emitter and a light source receiver, and a spring is additionally arranged to keep the pressure on the skin constant during the detection. The measuring range of the probe is 0-999, and the higher the measuring value is, the higher the content of melanin in the skin can be indicated.
The number of the subjects is 33, the test period is 4 weeks, the whitening skin-refreshing lotion applied in the application examples 1-8 and the skin-refreshing lotion applied in the comparative examples 1-2 are selected in the test, the whitening skin-refreshing lotion is smeared on different areas of the inner side of the forearm every morning and evening, the reflection quantity of the skin of the tested area before the test (Day1) and after the skin is used for 28 days (Day28) after the light with specific wavelength is respectively measured to determine the content of the melanin in the skin, and then the change rate of the melanin is characterized, and the result of the change rate of the specific melanin is shown in figure 5.
As can be seen from fig. 5, the application examples 1 to 8 of the present application have a large change rate of melanin, i.e., a reduced melanin content, and thus, the use of puerariae radix extract and biota orientalis leaf extract as whitening cosmetic additives can effectively whiten the skin.
In addition, in application examples 6 to 8 of the present application, since the content of the pueraria lobata extract was high, the melanin content was less decreased.
In application comparative examples 1-2 of the present application, when a pueraria extract or a thuja extract is used alone as a whitening cosmetic additive, the change rate of melanin content is small, the decrease of melanin content is small, and the whitening effect is poor.
The above examples of the present invention are merely examples for clearly illustrating the present invention and are not intended to limit the embodiments of the present invention. Other variations and modifications will be apparent to persons skilled in the art in light of the above description. And are neither required nor exhaustive of all embodiments. Any modification, equivalent replacement, and improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the claims of the present invention.

Claims (11)

1. The whitening and skin refreshing lotion is characterized by comprising a whitening cosmetic additive, a humectant, a thickener, grease, an emulsifier, a solubilizer, a skin conditioner, a soothing agent and an antioxidant; the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is 0.01-20% of the total mass of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion; the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-5%; the addition amount of the grease is 1-10%; the addition amount of the emulsifier is 0.01-2%; the addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0.05-2%;
the whitening cosmetic additive is radix Puerariae extract and folium Platycladi extract; wherein, the addition amount of the kudzu root extract is 0.5-80% and the addition amount of the cacumen biotae extract is 20-99.5% based on the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive;
the radix Puerariae extract is obtained from Guanzhou City exhibition Biotechnology Co., Ltd; the cacumen biotae extract is purchased from Shanghai Huiwen Biotech, Inc.;
the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the cacumen biotae extract is 1:1 to 50.
2. The whitening skin-refreshing lotion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the cacumen biotae extract is 1:2 to 50.
3. The whitening skin-refreshing lotion as claimed in claim 2, wherein the mass ratio of the kudzu root extract to the cacumen biotae extract is 1: 3 to 50.
4. The whitening skin-refreshing lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising one or more of a combination of pH regulator, chelating agent, preservative and aromatic.
5. The whitening skin-refreshing lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising a pH regulator added in an amount of 0 to 1 percent based on the total mass of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion; adding 0-1% of chelating agent; 0.01-1.5% of preservative is added; adding 0.005-0.5% of aromatic.
6. The whitening skin-refreshing lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the humectant comprises one or a combination of more than two of dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, betaine and trehalose.
7. The whitening skin-refreshing lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil comprises one or a combination of more than two of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, oleyl erucate, shea butter, ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclohexasiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, C20-24 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane, C13-14 isoparaffin, C12-15 alcohol benzoate.
8. The whitening skin-refreshing lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the emulsifier comprises one or a combination of more than two of polysorbate-20, polysorbate-60, sorbitan isostearate, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, laureth-7 and isosteareth-20; and/or
The antioxidant comprises one or more of vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxytoluene, lycopene and ascorbic acid ethyl ether.
9. The whitening skin-refreshing lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the solubilizer comprises one or two of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-butanol polyether-26; and/or
The thickening agent comprises one or more of polydimethylsiloxane/cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, xanthan gum, behenyl alcohol, polyacrylamide, PEG-100 stearate, carbomer, acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer and hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer.
10. The whitening skin-refreshing lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the skin conditioner comprises one or a combination of two or more of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, ceramide 2, macroalgae extract, avenin, fucus extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, beta-glucan, chlorella fermentation product, hydrolyzed collagen, green algae extract, rhodophyta extract, brown algae extract, hamamelis water, allantoin, mistletoe ginkgo leaf extract, lalang grass rhizome extract, ethanol, magnesium aspartate and cactus extract; and/or
The soothing agent comprises one or more of bisabolol, ginger root extract, aloe vera extract, centella asiatica extract, purslane extract, evening primrose oil, andrographis paniculata leaf extract, and hamamelis virginiana flower water.
11. A method for preparing the whitening skin-refreshing lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the whitening skin-refreshing lotion.
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