CN113116768A

CN113116768A - Water dew and collagenase inhibitor and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN113116768A
Application number: CN202010026145.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 杨登亮; 李华真; 李传茂; 张楚标; 曾伟丹; 张伟杰
Original assignee: GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICAL FACTORY; Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd; Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
Current assignee: GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICAL FACTORY; Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd; Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
Priority date: 2020-01-10
Filing date: 2020-01-10
Publication date: 2021-07-16

Abstract

The invention provides a water dew and collagenase inhibitor and a preparation method thereof. The water dew comprises a collagenase inhibitor and a penetration enhancer, wherein the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is 0.01-10% of the total mass of the water dew; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.01-10%; the collagenase inhibitor comprises a poria cocos extract and a ginseng extract, wherein the poria cocos extract is added in an amount of 10-45% and the ginseng extract is added in an amount of 55-90% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor. The water lotion disclosed by the invention is mild in formula and capable of effectively improving the skin elasticity, so that an anti-aging effect is achieved.

Description

Water dew and collagenase inhibitor and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to a water dew and collagenase inhibitor and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the field of cosmetics.

Background

Collagen is mainly produced by fibroblasts in the dermis layer, is a main component of the dermis layer, and can maintain the structure of the skin and endow the skin with toughness and elasticity. The collagen content and distribution determine the youth or not of the skin. However, abnormal reduction of collagen content causes thinning of the dermis, skin sagging, loss of elasticity, appearance of wrinkles, and affects the quality of life of people. With the ongoing and intensive research on collagen, researchers have found that collagenase plays an important role in the dynamic balance of skin collagen, and its overexpression and abnormal activation are one of the major causes of skin aging. Therefore, inhibiting the activity of collagenase can block the degradation of collagen of skin, increase the content of collagen, and realize the anti-aging effect.

The main approaches to skin anti-aging and skin care include the following aspects, with respect to factors affecting the collagen content of the skin: (1) increasing collagen synthesis by stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts in the dermis layer; (2) increasing the total amount of collagen in the dermis by stimulating the speed of synthesizing collagen by fibroblasts through active factors; (3) the degradation speed of the collagen is slowed down by inhibiting the catalytic activity of collagenase, a key enzyme for degrading the collagen in the dermis, so that the anti-aging purpose is achieved; (4) through sun protection, the damage of ultraviolet rays in sunlight to collagen in the skin is prevented, and the photoaging of the skin is slowed down; (5) the induced expression of collagenase and abnormal cross-linking of biomacromolecules is slowed down by scavenging excess oxygen free radicals in the skin using antioxidants.

In order to prevent skin from sagging, losing elasticity, forming wrinkles, etc., and to keep skin young, anti-aging lotions containing various components such as hydrolyzed collagen, hyaluronic acid, polypeptide, retinol and its derivatives have been proposed in the prior art. However, if these ingredients are used in large amounts, problems arise in the actual anti-aging effect, the feeling of use, and safety. If the molecular weight of the hydrolyzed collagen is too large, the hydrolyzed collagen is not easy to permeate the skin barrier of the human body to reach the dermis; hyaluronic acid cannot essentially slow down the loss of collagen; the polypeptide and the retinol have certain irritation and safety risks to the skin, and the like.

With the increase of attention of people to skin health, the development of a natural anti-aging agent with safety, stability, obvious effect and high cost performance has become one of the main research directions of the current pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, and has a very good development prospect.

Disclosure of Invention

Problems to be solved by the invention

In view of the prior art, the hydrolyzed collagen has too high molecular weight and is not easy to reach the dermis layer through the skin barrier of the human body; hyaluronic acid cannot essentially slow down the loss of collagen; the invention provides a water dew, which contains collagenase inhibitor and has excellent anti-aging effect.

Further, the present invention provides a collagenase inhibitor capable of inhibiting collagenase activity.

Furthermore, the invention also provides a preparation method of the collagenase inhibitor, which is simple to operate and easy to obtain raw materials.

Means for solving the problems

The invention provides a water dew, which comprises a collagenase inhibitor and a penetration enhancer, wherein the adding amount of the collagenase inhibitor is 0.01-10% of the total mass of the water dew; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.01-10%;

the collagenase inhibitor comprises a poria cocos extract and a ginseng extract, wherein the poria cocos extract is added in an amount of 10-45% and the ginseng extract is added in an amount of 55-90% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor.

The water lotion comprises the poria cocos extract and the ginseng extract in a mass ratio of 1: 1.3-9, preferably 1: 1.5-8.8, more preferably 1: 1.8-8.5, even more preferably 1: 2-8.2, even more preferably 1: 2.2-8, and even more preferably 1: 2.5-7.

The water dew comprises one or more of propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate and chitosan.

The water lotion comprises a water lotion, a water lotion and a skin conditioner, wherein the water lotion further comprises one or a combination of more than two of a humectant, a thickener, a pH regulator, an emulsifier, grease, a preservative, a fragrance, a soothing agent, an antioxidant and a chelating agent;

preferably, the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-1.8%; the addition amount of the pH regulator is 0.01-1%; the addition amount of the emulsifier is 0.01-2%; the addition amount of the grease is 1-8%; the addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0.01-5%; the adding amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5%; the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0-2%; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1%.

The water lotion comprises hydrolyzed collagen, oat peptide, ceramide 3, fucus extract, chlorella fermentation product, green algae extract, brown algae extract, allantoin, mistletoe ginkgo leaf extract, cogongrass rhizome extract, serine, ceramide 2, giant kelp extract, lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract, beta-glucan and cactus extract, or a combination of more than two of the hydrolyzed collagen, the oat peptide, the ceramide 3, the fucus extract, the chlorella fermentation product, the green algae extract, the brown algae extract, the allantoin, the mistletoe ginkgo leaf extract, the cogongrass rhizome extract, the serine, the ceramide 2, the giant kelp extract, the.

The water lotion comprises Hamamelis virginiana water, a centella asiatica extract, a ginger root extract, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and stearyl glycyrrhetinate, wherein the soothing agent comprises one or a combination of more than two of the Hamamelis virginiana water, the centella asiatica extract and the ginger root extract.

The present invention also provides a collagenase inhibitor comprising: the collagenase inhibitor comprises a poria cocos extract and a ginseng extract, wherein the adding amount of the poria cocos extract is 10-45% and the adding amount of the ginseng extract is 55-90% of the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor.

The collagenase inhibitor according to the present invention, wherein the mass ratio of the poria cocos extract to the ginseng extract is 1:1.3 to 9, preferably 1:1.5 to 8.8, more preferably 1:1.8 to 8.5, further preferably 1:2 to 8.2, further preferably 1:2.2 to 8, and further preferably 1:2.5 to 7.

The collagenase inhibitor according to the present invention, wherein the collagenase is interstitial collagenase.

The present invention also provides a method for preparing the collagenase inhibitor according to the present invention, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the collagenase inhibitor.

ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION

The water lotion disclosed by the invention is mild in formula and capable of effectively improving the skin elasticity, so that an anti-aging effect is achieved.

The collagenase inhibitor of the present invention has an excellent inhibitory effect on collagenase activity and has no side effects on the human body.

The preparation method of the collagenase inhibitor has the advantages of simple operation, easily obtained raw materials and batch production.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the logarithmic mass concentration-collagenase activity inhibition ratios of the Poria cocos extracts of comparative examples 1 to 5 of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the logarithmic mass concentration-collagenase activity inhibition ratios of the ginseng extracts of comparative examples 6 to 10 of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a graph showing the log mass concentration of collagenase inhibitors versus the collagenase activity inhibition rate for examples 1-5 of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a graph showing the relationship between the content of Poria cocos extract in collagenase inhibitors according to examples 1 to 5 of the present invention and the interaction coefficient.

FIG. 5 is a graph showing the comparison of the skin elasticity change rate of examples 1 to 5 of application and comparative examples 1 to 8 of the present invention.

Detailed Description

Various exemplary embodiments, features and aspects of the invention will be described in detail below. The word "exemplary" is used exclusively herein to mean "serving as an example, embodiment, or illustration. Any embodiment described herein as "exemplary" is not necessarily to be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments.

Furthermore, in the following detailed description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a better understanding of the present invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced without some of these specific details. In other instances, methods, means, devices and steps which are well known to those skilled in the art have not been described in detail so as not to obscure the invention.

It should be noted that:

in the present specification, the meaning of "may" or "may" includes both the meaning of performing a certain process and the meaning of not performing a certain process.

In the present specification, the numerical range represented by "numerical value a to numerical value B" means a range including the end point numerical value A, B.

All units used in the present invention are international standard units unless otherwise stated, and numerical values and numerical ranges appearing in the present invention should be understood to include errors allowed in industrial production.

In the present specification, reference to "some particular/preferred embodiments," "other particular/preferred embodiments," "embodiments," and the like, means that a particular element (e.g., feature, property, and/or characteristic) described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment described herein, and may or may not be present in other embodiments. In addition, it is to be understood that the described elements may be combined in any suitable manner in the various embodiments.

According to the first aspect of the invention, the collagenase inhibitor comprises a poria cocos extract and a ginseng extract, wherein the poria cocos extract is added in an amount of 10-45% and the ginseng extract is added in an amount of 55-90% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor.

The inventors of the present invention found that using a combination of ginseng extract and poria extract can produce an excellent synergistic effect, and thus can inhibit collagenase activity to achieve an anti-aging effect.

Specifically, in the present invention, the mass ratio of the poria cocos extract to the ginseng extract is 1: 1.3-9, preferably 1: 1.5-8.8, more preferably 1: 1.8-8.5, further preferably 1: 2-8.2, further preferably 1: 2.2-8, and further preferably 1: 2.5-7. When the mass ratio of the poria cocos extract to the ginseng extract is within the above range, a synergistic effect can be further obtained, and the collagenase activity inhibition effect is excellent.

The method for preparing the collagenase inhibitor of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a method generally used in the art, and specifically may include a step of mixing the components of the collagenase inhibitor. For example, the Poria extract and Ginseng radix extract are mixed by conventional mixing method.

Collagenase

Collagenases belong to one class of Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs). Matrix metalloproteinases are a family of endopeptidases with a zinc ion-dependent biological activity and the ability to degrade the extracellular Matrix (ECM). Collagenase mainly acts to degrade collagen and elastin in dermis, and its Tissue Type Inhibitor (TIMPs) specifically inhibits the activity of collagenase by covalently binding with its highly conserved zinc binding site, co-regulates the metabolism of the matrix, and maintains the structure of the dermis.

The collagenase includes interstitial collagenase (MMP-1), polymorphonuclear collagenase (MMP-8) and collagenase 3 (MMP-13). Among them, interstitial collagenase, also known as collagenase-1, has various functions and can act on different substrates. Interstitial collagenase degrades several matrix molecules, such as aggrecan, multipotent glycans, basement membrane proteoglycans, casein, nidogen, serine protein inhibitors, and mucin-C. Thus, interstitial collagenases play a key role in the physiological repair of the extracellular matrix. The invention is mainly based on the important function of interstitial collagenase in the skin aging process, and inhibits the activity of interstitial collagenase, thereby reducing the inflammatory reaction and wrinkles of the skin, and being used as a way for delaying aging to realize the anti-aging function.

It is to be noted that the object of the collagenase inhibitor of the present invention is to inhibit collagenase activity, for example: inhibit the activity of interstitial collagenase, but not the expression of collagenase.

Poria extract

Poria is dry sclerotium of Poria cocos (Schw.) Wolf (a fungus of Polyporaceae), also called Fuling, Poria cocos, Pink tuckahoe, etc., mainly produced in Yunnan, Anhui, Hubei, Henan, Sichuan, etc., and is a traditional Chinese medicinal material and a nutritional health-care life-prolonging food in China. Poria cocos is sweet, light and mild in nature and flavor; it has effects of invigorating heart, spleen, stomach and kidney, inducing diuresis, eliminating dampness, invigorating spleen, calming heart and tranquilizing mind.

Pachyman and triterpenes are the main chemical components of Poria, and in addition, Poria also contains steroid components, fatty acid, protein, adenine, amino acid and inorganic elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron and potassium. Poria has pharmacological effects in inhibiting tumor, relieving inflammation, regulating immunity, and protecting liver. The Poria extract extracted from Poria has good skin caring effect, and can reduce speckle, restore skin elasticity, and improve skin dryness.

In the invention, the poria cocos extract is added in an amount of 10-45% by mass of the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor. When the addition amount of the poria cocos extract is 10-45%, collagenase activity can be effectively inhibited. Specifically, the poria cocos extract may be added in an amount of 12%, 15%, 18%, 20%, 22%, 25%, 28%, 30%, 32%, 35%, 40%, etc.

Ginseng extract

Ginseng (Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer) is a perennial herbaceous plant of Araliaceae, and is one of the most potential medicinal plant resources in Changbai mountain.

Ginseng contains a variety of chemical components, such as: ginsenoside, ginseng polysaccharide, ginseng protein, polypeptide and the like. Wherein Ginsenoside (Ginsenoside) is a steroid compound, and is triterpene saponin with dammarane type and tetracyclic triterpene as main structure in chemical structure. Ginsenoside is one of representative active ingredients in ginseng, and is widely present in plants of the genus panax. The ginseng polysaccharide is another effective active ingredient of ginseng and is a good natural drug effect ingredient. The combined application of the ginseng polysaccharide and the small molecular chemotherapeutic drug can repair and reduce the damage of the chemotherapeutic drug to the human immune system, and play the role of synergy and attenuation.

The Ginseng radix extract can be used as a natural additive for cosmetic production. Ginsenoside has effects of resisting oxidation, preventing ultraviolet, and protecting skin, and is one of physiologically active substances in Ginseng radix. Ginsenoside can also stimulate the activity of skin fibroblasts, promote collagen synthesis, and increase the SOD content and activity in skin within a certain range. The Ginseng radix extract has high ginsenoside content, and can scavenge DPPH (1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine) free radical.

In the invention, the ginseng extract is added in an amount of 55-90% by mass based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor. When the amount of the ginseng extract is 55-90%, the collagenase activity can be effectively inhibited. Specifically, the ginseng extract may be added in an amount of 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 78%, 80%, 82%, 85%, 88%, etc.

A second aspect of the invention provides a water lotion comprising a collagenase inhibitor according to the first aspect of the invention and a penetration enhancer; the invention can inhibit the activity of collagenase, particularly the activity of interstitial collagenase by adding a proper amount of collagenase inhibitor, so that the water lotion has excellent anti-aging effect and can improve the skin elasticity. In order to promote the absorption of collagenase inhibitors by the skin, the water aqua according to the invention also uses penetration enhancers. By using a penetration enhancer, the collagenase inhibitor of the present invention can be exerted to a greater extent.

Wherein, the adding amount of the collagenase inhibitor is 0.01-10% based on the total mass of the water dew, such as: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, etc. When the collagenase inhibitor is added in an amount of 0.01-10%, the elasticity of the skin after the collagenase inhibitor is used is increased. When the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is less than 0.01%, the collagenase inhibitor cannot play a role in resisting aging; when the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is more than 10%, the content of the collagenase inhibitor is too high, the cost is too high, and the corresponding anti-aging effect is not obviously improved.

The addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.01-10% of the total mass of the water dew, such as: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, etc. When the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is less than 0.01%, the penetration enhancing effect is not significant. When the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is more than 10%, the penetration enhancer cannot further function.

In the present invention, the penetration enhancer includes one or a combination of two or more of propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, and chitosan. The invention preferably uses the combination of propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, and the propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate have synergistic effect, so that the absorption effect of collagenase inhibitor can be more excellent.

When a combination of propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate is used as a permeation enhancer, the amount of propylene glycol added is 0.01 to 5% and the amount of bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate added is 0.01 to 5% based on the total mass of the water dew. When the addition amount of the propylene glycol is 0.01-5% and the addition amount of the bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate is 0.01-5%, the absorption effect of the collagenase inhibitor can be effectively improved. For example: the amount of propylene glycol added is 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2.5%, 3.5%, 4.5%, etc., and the amount of bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate added is 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2.5%, 3.5%, 4.5%, etc.

In the invention, the water lotion also comprises one or the combination of more than two of humectant, thickener, pH regulator, emulsifier, grease, preservative, skin conditioner, aromatic, soothing agent, antioxidant and chelating agent; the water dew has mild formula composition, and can fully exert the efficacy of the collagenase inhibitor. Specifically, the method comprises the following steps:

the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% by the total mass of the water lotion, and the humectant can play a role in moisturizing. In order to further exert the efficacy of the humectant, the humectant can be added in an amount of 1-18%, 2-16%, 3-14%, 4-15%, 5-14%, 6-13%, or 7-12%. When the content of the humectant is less than 0.01%, the moisturizing effect is not obvious; when the content of the humectant is more than 20%, the moisture lotion has a sticky feeling.

In the invention, the humectant comprises one or a combination of more than two of glycerin, dipropylene glycol, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, butanediol, xylitol, betaine, glycerin polyacrylate, mannose and trehalose. The moisture lotion disclosed by the invention has more excellent moisture-keeping and moisturizing effects by using the combination of various humectants.

The thickener is added in an amount of 0.02 to 1.8% based on the total mass of the water lotion, and for example, the thickener may be added in an amount of 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.6%, 0.8%, 1.0%, 1.2%, 1.5%, or the like. When the addition amount of the thickener is between 0.02 and 1.8 percent, the low-viscosity feeling and excellent use feeling are achieved, the dispersibility is good, and the absorption is fast. When the addition amount of the thickener is less than 0.02%, the water lotion has thin texture and no sticky feeling; when the thickener is added in an amount of more than 1.8%, the moisture is too thick and heavy, which may increase the burden on the skin.

The thickening agent comprises one or the combination of more than two of carbomer, xanthan gum, sclerotium rolfsii, behenyl alcohol, acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer and a compound of sorbitan isostearate, isohexadecane and polysorbate-60.

The invention uses hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and composite thickening agent such as sorbitan isostearate, a composite of isohexadecane and polysorbate-60, and the like, and can improve the stability of the water dew.

The addition amount of the pH regulator is 0.01-1% of the total mass of the water dew. The pH value of the water dew is more suitable for human skin by adding the pH regulator. Preferably, the amount of the pH adjuster of the present invention added may be 0.03 to 0.8%, 0.06 to 0.5%, 0.1 to 0.3%, or the like. When the amount of the pH regulator added is more than 1% or less than 0.01%, water dew with a proper pH value cannot be obtained. The pH regulator comprises one or more of aminomethyl propanol, arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate and sodium hydroxide.

In the present invention, the emulsifier is added in an amount of 0.01 to 2% based on the total mass of the water lotion, for example: may be 0.1 to 1.5%, may be 0.5 to 1.2%, etc. When the dosage of the emulsifier is less than 0.01%, the emulsification is insufficient, so that the system is unstable; when the dosage of the emulsifier is more than 2 percent, certain influence can be caused on the stability of the product.

In the present invention, the emulsifier includes one or a combination of two or more of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, laureth-7, isosteareth-20.

Since the emulsion system of the present invention is a non-water-in-oil system, when propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiethylene glycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate are used as permeation promoters, their synergistic effect is not affected even if they are not added at the same time.

In the invention, the addition amount of the grease is 1-8% by the total mass of the water dew. For example, the amount of the oil or fat added may be 1.5%, 2%, 2.5%, 3%, 3.5%, 4%, 4.5%, 5%, 6%, 7%, or the like. By adding oil and fat into the water lotion, evaporation of water on the surface of skin can be reduced, and skin chapping can be prevented. In addition, by adding oil or fat, a hydrophobic film can be formed on the skin surface to prevent the invasion of harmful substances from the outside. When the content of the oil is less than 1%, evaporation of moisture on the skin surface cannot be reduced, and intrusion of harmful substances cannot be effectively prevented; when the content of the oil is more than 8%, the water is too greasy, and the use feeling is reduced.

In the invention, the grease comprises one or the combination of more than two of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclomethicone, a compound of dimethicone and dimethiconol, oleyl erucate, shea butter, ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclohexasiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, C20-24 alkyl dimethicone, C13-14 isoparaffin and C12-15 alcohol benzoate.

In order to further improve the efficacy of the water lotion of the present application, the water lotion of the present invention further comprises the skin conditioner. The skin conditioner is added to calm the skin, so that the facial skin can be relieved from injury and redness and swelling, and wrinkles can be reduced. In addition, the moisture lotion can improve the skin oil-out condition, is not greasy in texture and can adjust the water-oil balance.

The addition amount of the skin conditioning agent is 0.01-5% of the total mass of the water lotion. Preferably, the skin conditioning agent may be added in an amount of 0.1 to 4.5%, may be 0.3 to 4%, may be 0.5 to 3%, and the like. When the addition amount of the skin conditioner is less than 0.01%, the corresponding effect cannot be achieved; when the skin conditioning agent is added in an amount of more than 5%, the cost is too high.

In the present invention, the skin conditioner comprises one or a combination of two or more of hydrolyzed collagen, avenin, ceramide 3, fucus extract, chlorella fermentation product, chlorella extract, brown algae extract, allantoin, ginkgo mistletoe leaf extract, lalang grass rhizome extract, serine, ceramide 2, kelp extract, lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract, beta-glucan, and cactus extract.

The water lotion of the invention can also be added with a small amount of soothing agent. By adding the allergy relieving agent, the skin can be calmed, so that the skin has certain allergy relieving effect on the injury red swelling of the facial skin, and the skin can be helped to resist inflammation, relieve and promote cell repair.

The addition amount of the soothing and sensitizing agent is 0.01-5% of the total mass of the water lotion; for example, it may be 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, etc. When the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is less than 0.01 percent, the allergy relieving effect is not obvious. When the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is more than 5%, the further allergy relieving effect cannot be achieved, and the cost is too high.

The soothing agent comprises Hamamelis virginiana flower water, herba Centellae extract, rhizoma Zingiberis recens extract, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, and stearyl glycyrrhetinate.

The addition amount of the antioxidant is 0-2% of the total mass of the water dew. The invention can prevent the oily components of oil, wax, hydrocarbon and the like of the cosmetics from contacting with oxygen in the air to generate oxidation, generate peroxide, aldehyde, acid and the like, and lead the cosmetics to discolor, rancidity, quality reduction and the like by using the antioxidant. The antioxidant comprises one or more of vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxytoluene, lycopene, and ascorbic acid ethyl ether.

The water lotion of the present invention may be appropriately added with a chelating agent. The addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1% of the total mass of the water dew. The chelating agent may be disodium EDTA and/or tetrasodium EDTA and the like.

In addition, the water dew of the invention also contains a preservative and a flavoring agent. The preservative in the water dew is added in an amount of 0.01-1.5% and the aromatic is added in an amount of 0.005-0.5% based on the total mass of the water dew. The preservative can comprise one or the combination of more than two of phenoxyethanol, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, benzoic acid and salts thereof. The aromatic may be a perfume, etc.

The moisture lotion disclosed by the invention not only can play a role in resisting aging, but also has the effects of moisturizing and locking water, can prevent moisture loss and creates a moisturizing barrier for skin. Meanwhile, the water lotion of the invention has the effects of repairing and protecting the skin and activating the function of the skin.

A third aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing the water dew of the second aspect, comprising a step of mixing the components of the water dew.

Specifically, the preparation method of the water dew comprises the following steps:

1. adding water, optional chelating agent, part of skin conditioner, humectant, part of penetration enhancer, part of thickener, and emulsifier into a stirring pot, stirring, and heating to 80-85 deg.C;

2. cooling to 55-65 deg.C, adding oil, pH regulator, the rest thickener, optionally antioxidant, and part of antiseptic, and stirring;

3. cooling to 40-50 deg.C, adding collagenase inhibitor, rest skin conditioner, soothing agent, rest antiseptic, aromatic, and rest penetration enhancer, and stirring;

4. cooling to 30-40 deg.C, discharging after qualified inspection, and standing for 12-24 hr;

5. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.

Examples

Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but those skilled in the art will appreciate that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.

The poria extract was purchased from: nanjing Sibaike Biochemical industries, Inc.;

the ginseng extracts were purchased from: science and technology research and development ltd, zhen (guangdong).

Comparative examples 1 to 5

Poria extract is provided as collagenase inhibitor. The tuckahoe extract is dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water with different volumes to obtain 5 groups of test solutions, and the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions are 1200 mu g/mL, 960 mu g/mL, 720 mu g/mL, 480 mu g/mL and 240 mu g/mL respectively. The logarithmic mass concentration of the poria cocos wolf extract is shown in table 2 and fig. 1 below.

Comparative examples 6 to 10

Ginseng radix extract is provided as collagenase inhibitor. The ginseng extract was dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water in volumes corresponding to comparative examples 1-5 to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 4000. mu.g/mL, 3200. mu.g/mL, 2400. mu.g/mL, 1600. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, respectively. The log mass concentration of the ginseng extract is shown in table 2 and fig. 2 below.

Examples 1 to 5

Poria extract and Ginseng radix extract are provided as collagenase inhibitors. The collagenase inhibitor is obtained by mixing the poria cocos extract and the ginseng extract in a mass ratio of 1:10 (example 1), 1:5 (example 2), 1:3 (example 3), 1:1 (example 4) and 2:1 (example 5).

The collagenase inhibitor of example 1 was dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 2000. mu.g/mL, 1600. mu.g/mL, 1200. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, 400. mu.g/mL, respectively.

The collagenase inhibitors of example 2 were dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 2000. mu.g/mL, 1600. mu.g/mL, 1200. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, 400. mu.g/mL, respectively.

The collagenase inhibitors of example 3 were dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 2000. mu.g/mL, 1600. mu.g/mL, 1200. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, 400. mu.g/mL, respectively.

The collagenase inhibitors of example 4 were dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 1000. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, 600. mu.g/mL, 400. mu.g/mL, 200. mu.g/mL, respectively.

The collagenase inhibitors of example 5 were dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 1000. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, 600. mu.g/mL, 400. mu.g/mL, 200. mu.g/mL, respectively.

Wherein, the contents (% by mass) of the poria cocos extract and the ginseng radix extract in the collagenase inhibitor are shown in table 1 below, and the logarithmic mass concentration of the collagenase inhibitor is shown in table 3 below.

TABLE 1

Collagenase activity inhibition assay

The forskolin phenol reagent can be reduced by phenolic compounds to be blue (a mixture of molybdenum blue and tungsten blue) under alkaline conditions, and because the protein molecules contain amino acid containing phenolic groups (such as tyrosine, tryptophan and the like), the protein and the hydrolysate thereof can be subjected to the reaction, so that the protease activity can be measured by utilizing the principle. Casein is generally used as a substrate, and is hydrolyzed by collagenase under certain pH value and temperature conditions, and is used for a period of timeStopping the enzymolysis reaction with chloroacetic acid, centrifuging or filtering to remove casein precipitate, collecting supernatant, and adding Na₂CO₃Alkalizing, adding Folin phenol reagent, developing, wherein the shade of blue is proportional to the amount of tyrosine in the filtrate, and measuring with spectrophotometer at 650nm wavelength to calculate the activity of collagenase.

In the test, all collagenases used were matrix collagenase (MMP-1), purchased from: shanghai ze leaf Biotech Co., Ltd.

Collagenase activity is measured as the activity of collagenase that catalyzes the production of tyrosine by casein. The method specifically comprises the following steps:

adding 0.25mL of deionized water and 0.25mL (32U/mL) of collagenase into 1 test tube respectively, then adding 0.5mL (1.0% w/v) of a substrate casein solution, immediately mixing the mixture, keeping the temperature in a water bath at 37 ℃ for 10min, then adding 1mL (6.5% w/v) of a trichloroacetic acid solution, mixing the mixture uniformly, standing the mixture for 10min, centrifuging the mixture for 5min at 10000rpm, taking 0.5mL of a supernatant sample in the test tube, adding 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) of a sodium bicarbonate test solution into another test tube respectively, and shaking the test tube uniformly. After 10 minutes, respectively adding 0.5ml of forinophenol test solution (diluted by 2 times by 1mol/L acid concentration of the forinophenol test solution), immediately mixing uniformly, and standing for 30 minutes at room temperature; the supernatant 1 of the experimental group was obtained and the absorbance at a wavelength of 650nm was measured and recorded as A1.

② taking another 1 test tube, respectively adding 0.25mL of deionized water and 0.25mL (32U/mL) of collagenase, then adding 1mL (6.5%, w/v) of trichloroacetic acid solution and immediately mixing, preserving heat in 37 ℃ water bath for 10min, then adding 0.5mL (1.0%, w/v) of substrate casein solution and mixing, standing for 10min, centrifuging at 10000rpm for 5min, taking 0.5mL of supernatant sample in the test tube, respectively adding 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) of sodium bicarbonate test solution into another test tube, and shaking uniformly. After 10 minutes, respectively adding 0.5ml of forinophenol test solution (diluted by 2 times by 1mol/L acid concentration of the forinophenol test solution), immediately mixing uniformly, and standing for 30 minutes at room temperature; control supernatant 2 was obtained and the absorbance measured at 650nm and recorded as A2.

③ respectively adding 0.25mL (32U/mL) of collagenase into 35 test tubes, then respectively adding 0.25mL (1.0%, w/v) of the test solution of the comparative examples 1-10 and the examples 1-5, and mixing uniformly, then adding 0.5mL (1.0%, w/v) of the casein solution of the substrate and immediately mixing uniformly, after preserving heat in a water bath at 37 ℃ for 10min, then adding 1mL (6.5%, w/v) of trichloroacetic acid solution and mixing uniformly, standing for 10min, centrifuging at 10000rpm for 5min, respectively taking 0.5mL of the supernatant sample in 35 test tubes, respectively adding 0.5mL of sodium bicarbonate test solution into another 35 test tubes, respectively adding 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) of sodium bicarbonate test solution, and shaking uniformly. After 10 minutes, respectively adding 0.5ml of forinophenol test solution (diluted by 2 times by 1mol/L acid concentration of the forinophenol test solution), immediately mixing uniformly, and standing for 30 minutes at room temperature; 35 groups of experimental group supernatants 3 were obtained and absorbance was measured at 650nm and recorded as A3.

And fourthly, respectively adding 0.25mL (32U/mL) of collagenase into 35 test tubes, then respectively adding 0.25mL of the test solution of the comparative examples 1-10 and the examples 1-5, uniformly mixing, then adding 1mL (6.5%, w/v) of trichloroacetic acid solution, immediately uniformly mixing, keeping the temperature in a water bath at 37 ℃ for 10min, then adding 0.5mL (1.0%, w/v) of casein solution as a substrate, uniformly mixing, standing for 10min, centrifuging at 10000rpm for 5min, respectively taking 0.5mL of supernatant samples in the 35 test tubes, respectively adding 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) of sodium bicarbonate test solution into the other 35 test tubes, and uniformly shaking. After 10 minutes, respectively adding 0.5ml of forinophenol test solution (diluted by 2 times by 1mol/L acid concentration of the forinophenol test solution), immediately mixing uniformly, and standing for 30 minutes at room temperature; 35 control group supernatant 4 was obtained and absorbance was measured at 650nm and recorded as A4.

The inhibition rate is [1- (A3-A4)/(A1-A2) ] x 100%

In the formula: a1 is the absorbance of supernatant 1 of experimental group without adding collagenase inhibitor;

a2 is the absorbance of control supernatant 2 without collagenase inhibitor;

a3 is the absorbance of supernatant 3 of experimental group containing collagenase inhibitor;

a4 is the absorbance of control supernatant 4 containing collagenase inhibitor.

The respective collagenase activity inhibition rates of the poria cocos extracts (comparative examples 1 to 5) and the ginseng extracts (comparative examples 6 to 10) were calculated. Combining the logarithmic mass concentration-collagenase activity inhibition ratio relationship chart (figure 1 and figure 2), and calculating the corresponding mass concentration (IC) when the inhibition ratio of Poria extract is 50%_50A) Mass concentration (IC) corresponding to 50% inhibition rate of Ginseng radix extract_50B) The results are shown in Table 2.

TABLE 2

The collagenase inhibitors of examples 1-5 were then tested for collagenase inhibition. And calculating the mass concentration (IC) of Poria extract when the combined action of Poria extract and Ginseng radix extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50%) by combining the logarithmic mass concentration-collagenase inhibition rate relationship diagram_50a) Mass concentration (IC) of the ginseng extract when the combined action of the poria extract and the ginseng extract produces an equivalent inhibition rate (50%)_50b) The results are shown in Table 3.

The effect of the combined action of the poria extract and the ginseng extract can be evaluated by the interaction coefficient γ, and the specific results are shown in table 3.

γ＝IC_50a/IC_50A+IC_50b/IC_50B

Wherein, IC_50ARepresents the mass concentration corresponding to the inhibition rate of 50% of the tuckahoe extract;

IC_50Brepresents the mass concentration corresponding to the inhibition rate of the ginseng extract of 50%;

IC_50arepresents the mass concentration of the tuckahoe extract when the compound action of the tuckahoe extract and the ginseng extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50 percent);

IC_50brepresents the mass concentration of the ginseng extract when the combined action of the tuckahoe extract and the ginseng extract generates an equivalent inhibition rate (50%).

Wherein γ ═ 1, indicates that the poria extract and ginseng extract exhibit a simple additive effect; gamma is less than 1, the tuckahoe extract and the ginseng extract show a synergistic effect, and the smaller the gamma value is, the stronger the synergistic effect is; gamma > 1 shows antagonistic effect of Poria extract and Ginseng radix extract, and the larger the gamma value is, the larger the antagonistic effect is.

TABLE 3

Note: in Table 3, examples 1,4 to 5 are embodied in the present invention as reference examples 1,4 to 5, which can be compared with examples 2 to 3.

As can be seen from table 3, the collagenase inhibitor of the present invention has an interaction coefficient of less than 1, and the interaction coefficient value thereof may be 0.9 or less, and even 0.8 or less, so that the poria cocos extract and the ginseng radix extract may exhibit excellent synergistic effects.

Application examples 1 to 5

The water dew was prepared according to the following production process steps and the contents (mass percentages) of the components in the water dew formulations of application examples 1 to 5 in the following table 4. The production process comprises the following steps:

1. adding the phase A raw material into a stirring pot, stirring and heating to 83 ℃;

2. cooling to 60 ℃, adding B, C phase and stirring evenly;

3. cooling to 42 deg.C, adding phase D, and stirring;

4. cooling to 37 ℃, discharging after the inspection is qualified, and standing for 24 hours;

Note: the A, B, C, D phases in the process are respectively

Phase A: water, EDTA disodium, allantoin, mannose, butanediol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, panthenol, betaine, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceramide 2;

phase B: a compound of polydimethylsiloxane and dimethiconol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclomethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, tocopheryl acetate, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and a compound of sorbitan isostearate and isohexadecane and polysorbate-60, methylparaben;

and C phase: aminomethyl propanol;

phase D: ginseng extract, tuckahoe extract, lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract, serine, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, kelp extract, phenoxyethanol, essence and bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic ester.

In the formula, mannose, butanediol, glycerol, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol and betaine are used as humectants;

xanthan gum, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and sorbitan isostearate and a complex of isohexadecane and polysorbate-60 are thickeners;

the compound of polydimethylsiloxane and dimethiconol, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclomethicone and cyclohexasiloxane are grease;

PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate is an emulsifier; aminomethyl propanol is a pH adjusting agent;

serine, ceramide 2, lactobacillus/semen glycines fermented product extract, Macrocystis extract, and allantoin are skin conditioner;

disodium EDTA is a chelating agent; tocopheryl acetate is an antioxidant;

propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate are permeation enhancers;

the Ginseng radix extract and Poria extract are collagenase inhibitors; dipotassium glycyrrhizinate is a soothing agent;

phenoxyethanol and methyl hydroxybenzoate as antiseptic; the essence is an aromatic.

In the invention, the hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sorbitan isostearate, isohexadecane and polysorbate-60 compound are prepared by the following manufacturers: sabick Corp.

Composite of polydimethylsiloxane and dimethiconol, manufacturer: dao corning, usa, trade mark: PMX-1403 silicone oil.

Application of comparative examples 1 to 8

Moisture lotions were prepared in accordance with the contents (mass percentages) of the respective components in the moisture lotion formulations of comparative application examples 1 to 8 in the following table 5 in the same manner as in application examples 1 to 5.

TABLE 4

TABLE 5

Skin elasticity test

Method for testing skin elasticity: the test principle is based on the principle of suction and stretching, where a negative pressure is generated on the skin surface to be tested to suck the skin into a specific test probe, and the depth of the skin sucked into the test probe is measured by a non-contact optical test system. The test probe includes a transmitter and receiver of light, the ratio of which (the ratio of transmitted light to received light) is proportional to the depth of skin being absorbed, thus obtaining a time-dependent curve of the length of skin stretched.

Measuring the skin elasticity of the subject by using a probe PVM600 and a skin elasticity measuring instrument MPA580 of German CK company, selecting a parameter R2 as a comparison index (R2: the ratio of the skin rebound quantity without negative pressure to the maximum stretching quantity with negative pressure is closer to 1, the skin elasticity is better) and measuring for 3 times in total, and taking an average value; the improvement of the skin elasticity of the tested area by the product was evaluated by measuring the change in the skin elasticity value R2 before and after use of the product.

The number of subjects was 33, the test period was 8 weeks, the test samples were obtained by dividing the water extracts of practical examples 1 to 5 and the water extracts of practical examples 1 to 8 into 13 different areas on the forearm of the subject, and applying the water extracts of practical examples 1 to 5 and the water extracts of practical examples 1 to 8 to the different areas on the inner side of the forearm every morning and evening in an amount of about 2mg/cm²And testedThe application position of each test sample was kept constant during the period, and then the skin elasticity of the test area before the experiment and at 8 weeks of use was measured, respectively, to thereby characterize the change rate of the skin elasticity, and the results of the specific change rate of elasticity (averaged) are shown in table 6 and fig. 5.

TABLE 6

As can be seen from table 6 and fig. 5, the application examples 1 to 5 of the present application have a large change rate of skin elasticity, i.e., enhanced skin elasticity, and thus, the use of the poria cocos extract and the ginseng radix extract is effective in improving skin aging.

In the application comparative examples 1 to 8 of the present application, the skin elasticity change rate was small, and thus, the anti-aging effect was relatively poor in the application comparative examples 1 to 8.

The above examples of the present invention are merely examples for clearly illustrating the present invention and are not intended to limit the embodiments of the present invention. Other variations and modifications will be apparent to persons skilled in the art in light of the above description. And are neither required nor exhaustive of all embodiments. Any modification, equivalent replacement, and improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the claims of the present invention.

Claims

1. The water dew is characterized by comprising a collagenase inhibitor and a penetration enhancer, wherein the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is 0.01-10% of the total mass of the water dew; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.01-10%;

2. The water lotion according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the poria cocos extract to the ginseng extract is 1: 1.3-9, preferably 1: 1.5-8.8, more preferably 1: 1.8-8.5, further preferably 1: 2-8.2, further preferably 1: 2.2-8, and further preferably 1: 2.5-7.

3. The water lotion of claim 1 or 2, wherein the penetration enhancer comprises one or a combination of two or more of propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiethylene glycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, and chitosan.

4. The water lotion according to any one of claims 1-3, further comprising one or a combination of two or more of a humectant, a thickener, a pH adjuster, an emulsifier, a grease, a preservative, a skin conditioner, a fragrance, a soothing agent, an antioxidant, and a chelating agent;

5. The water lotion of claim 4, wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises one or a combination of two or more of hydrolyzed collagen, avenin, ceramide 3, fucus extract, chlorella fermentation product, chlorella extract, brown algae extract, allantoin, ginkgo mistletoe leaf extract, cogongrass rhizome extract, serine, ceramide 2, kelp extract, lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract, beta-glucan, and cactus extract.

6. The water lotion according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the soothing agent comprises one or a combination of two or more of Hamamelis virginiana water, centella asiatica extract, ginger root extract, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, and stearyl glycyrrhetinate.

7. A collagenase inhibitor comprising: the collagenase inhibitor comprises a poria cocos extract and a ginseng extract, wherein the adding amount of the poria cocos extract is 10-45% and the adding amount of the ginseng extract is 55-90% of the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor.

8. The collagenase inhibitor according to claim 7, wherein the mass ratio of the poria cocos extract to the ginseng extract is 1:1.3 to 9, preferably 1:1.5 to 8.8, more preferably 1:1.8 to 8.5, further preferably 1:2 to 8.2, further preferably 1:2.2 to 8, and further preferably 1:2.5 to 7.

9. Collagenase inhibitor according to claim 7 or 8, characterised in that the collagenase is a interstitial collagenase.

10. A method of preparing a collagenase inhibitor according to any one of claims 7-9, comprising the step of mixing the components of the collagenase inhibitor.