Detailed Description
Various exemplary embodiments, features and aspects of the invention will be described in detail below. The word "exemplary" is used exclusively herein to mean "serving as an example, embodiment, or illustration. Any embodiment described herein as "exemplary" is not necessarily to be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments.
Furthermore, in the following detailed description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a better understanding of the present invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced without some of these specific details. In other instances, methods, means, devices and steps which are well known to those skilled in the art have not been described in detail so as not to obscure the invention.
First embodiment
A first embodiment of the present invention provides a whitening cosmetic additive, which includes a whitening cosmetic additive; the whitening cosmetic additive comprises licorice extract and mint extract. The whitening cosmetic additive disclosed by the invention can well inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and has an excellent whitening effect when being used in cosmetics, particularly in whitening moisturizing masks.
The licorice extract is a component extracted from licorice and having medicinal value. The Glycyrrhrizae radix extract generally comprises glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhizic acid, liquiritin, glycyrrhizin flavonoid, semaphorin, formononetin, quercetin, etc. Is yellow to brown yellow powder, has effects of scavenging oxygen free radicals, resisting inflammation and allergy, resisting ultraviolet, and improving rough, water-deficient and inflamed skin.
The licorice extract can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and dopachrome tautomerase (TRP-2) and inhibit the polymerization of 5, 6-dihydroxyindole (DHl) to prevent the formation of melanin, thereby whitening skin. However, the effect of inhibiting tyrosinase is poor and the whitening effect is poor when the liquorice extract is used alone.
Herba Menthae (Mentha haplocalyx Briq) is a perennial Mentha herb of Labiatae, and is also named as herba Menthae Rotundifoliae, Sucus mint, Bofolium Nelumbinis, etc. The mint is one of the traditional spice plants which are commonly used and important in China and have wide planting area, the upper part of the mint can be used as a medicine, and the whole plant has strong cool fragrance and is a plant which has wide distribution and strong adaptability and has strong special aromatic odor.
The volatile oil in mint plants is the main chemical component in mint and is the most deeply studied component. Research shows that the main chemical components in oil are alcohol, ketone, ester, terpene hydrocarbon and terpene hydrocarbon. The fresh mint leaves contain about 0.8-1% of volatile oil, and the dry stems and leaves contain about 1.3-2%.
In addition, the mentha plants are widely distributed and have strong ecological adaptability, and the form and chemical components of the mentha plants have more variation, so that the extracted peppermint oil has great component difference. The non-volatile oil of herba Menthae comprises: amino acids, flavonoids, organic acids, fatty acids, and the like. In addition, inorganic elements, vitamins, carotene, ursolic acid, etc. are also included.
The invention uses the combination of the liquorice extract and the mint extract, and the liquorice extract and the mint extract have synergistic effect and can further increase the effect of inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase. In the invention, the addition amount of the liquorice extract is 0.2-70% of the total mass of the whitening cosmetic additive; the addition amount of the mint extract is 30-99.8%.
In the invention, the mass ratio of the licorice extract to the mint extract is 1: 0.3 to 80, preferably 1: 0.5 to 70, more preferably 1:1 to 65, and more preferably 1:2 to 60, and more preferably 1: 2.5 to 57, and more preferably 1: 3 to 50. When the mass ratio of the licorice extract to the mint extract is within the above range, a synergistic effect can be further obtained, and the tyrosinase activity-inhibiting effect is excellent.
Second embodiment
A second embodiment of the present invention provides a whitening and moisturizing mask including the whitening cosmetic additive of the first embodiment. According to the whitening moisturizing facial mask, the whitening cosmetic additive with a proper content is added, so that the activity of tyrosinase can be inhibited, and the whitening moisturizing facial mask has an excellent whitening effect.
Wherein the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is 0.01-10%, preferably 0.1-9% of the total mass of the whitening moisturizing mask, such as: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, etc. When the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is between 0.01 and 10 percent, the content of melanin in the skin using the whitening and moisturizing mask is reduced. When the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is less than 0.01%, the content of melanin is reduced a little, and the whitening effect cannot be achieved; when the addition amount of the whitening cosmetic additive is more than 10%, the content of the whitening cosmetic additive is too high, the cost is too high, and the corresponding whitening effect is not obviously improved.
The whitening and moisturizing mask also comprises a humectant, a thickening agent, a solubilizer, a skin conditioner, a soothing agent, a pH regulator and a chelating agent; the whitening and moisturizing mask disclosed by the invention is mild in formula composition, and the effects of the whitening cosmetic additive can be fully exerted. Specifically, the method comprises the following steps:
the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing mask. When the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%, the humectant can play a role in moisturizing and hydrating. In order to further exert the efficacy of the moisturizer, the amount of the moisturizer of the present invention added may be preferably 1 to 19%, 4 to 18%, 6 to 17%, 8 to 16%, 10 to 15%, or the like. When the content of the humectant is less than 0.01%, the moisturizing effect is not obvious; when the content of the humectant is more than 20%, the whitening and moisturizing mask has a sticky feeling.
In the invention, the humectant comprises one or a combination of more than two of dipropylene glycol, glycerol polyacrylate, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, butanediol, panthenol, glycerol, polyethylene glycol-32, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, trehalose, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer and tremella polysaccharide. The whitening and moisturizing mask disclosed by the invention has excellent moisturizing performance by using a combination of a plurality of humectants.
The addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-0.8% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing mask. When the addition amount of the thickener is between 0.02 and 0.8 percent, the low-viscosity feeling and excellent use feeling are achieved, the dispersibility is good, and the absorption is fast. When the addition amount of the thickening agent is less than 0.02%, the whitening and moisturizing mask is thin in texture and free of any sticky feeling; when the addition amount of the thickener is more than 0.8%, the whitening and moisturizing mask is too thick and heavy, which may increase the burden on the skin.
In the invention, the thickening agent comprises one or more than two of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, acryloyldimethyl taurate ammonium/VP copolymer and cassava starch.
The addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5% based on the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing mask. The solubilizer is used in the whitening and moisturizing mask, so that the skin feel of the mask is smooth. Preferably, the solubilizer is added in an amount of 0.02 to 0.4%, 0.025 to 0.3%, or the like. In the present invention, the solubilizer includes one or more of polysorbate-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, and PPG-26-buteth-26.
The addition amount of the pH regulator is 0.01-1% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing mask. The pH value of the whitening and moisturizing mask is more suitable for human skin by adding the pH regulator. Preferably, the amount of the pH adjustor of the present invention added may be 0.03 to 0.8%, 0.04 to 0.5%, 0.045 to 0.3%, or the like. When the addition amount of the pH regulator is more than 1% or less than 0.01%, the whitening and moisturizing mask with proper pH value cannot be obtained.
In order to further improve the efficacy of the whitening and moisturizing mask, the whitening and moisturizing mask further comprises a skin conditioner. The skin conditioner is added, so that the effects of moisturizing and moisturizing can be further achieved, and the generation of wrinkles can be reduced. In addition, the addition of the skin conditioner can properly reduce the adhesive force of stratum corneum cells, accelerate the renewal of epidermal cells and enhance the repair capability of skin.
The addition amount of the skin conditioning agent is 0.01-5% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing mask, and can be 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3% and the like, for example. When the addition amount of the skin conditioner is less than 0.01%, the content is too low to achieve the corresponding effect.
In the present invention, the skin conditioner includes one or a combination of two or more of a giant kelp extract, ceramide 2, a fucus extract, a chlorella fermentation product, hydrolyzed collagen, a brown algae extract, beta-glucan, allantoin, a lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract, a cogongrass rhizome extract, and a cactus extract.
Wherein the kelp extract is derived from kelp, which is proliferated in large amount by kelp cells and has high content of natural plant protein. Therefore, the kelp extract has the effects of supplementing cell nutrition and effectively preserving moisture.
Among them, allantoin can reduce the adhesion of stratum corneum cells, accelerate epidermal cell renewal, enhance skin repair ability, and has high safety.
Wherein, the beta-glucan is natural plant mucilage glycan, and the component has certain anti-allergy and anti-inflammatory effects and the like. The beta-glucan has good compatibility with most raw materials, has no anaphylactic reaction, and can improve the skin moisturizing capability. In addition, the beta-glucan can also play a role in resisting oxidation and protecting the skin from being damaged by ultraviolet rays, can reduce skin wrinkles and improve the capability of the skin in resisting external damage.
In addition, the whitening and moisturizing mask can be added with a soothing agent. By adding the allergy relieving agent, the skin can be calmed, so that the skin has certain allergy relieving effect on the injury red swelling of the facial skin, and the skin can be helped to resist inflammation, relieve and promote cell repair.
The amount of the soothing agent added is 0-5% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing mask, and can be 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3% and the like, for example. When the addition amount of the sensitizer is more than 5%, the cost is too high.
The soothing agent comprises one or more of Hamamelis virginiana water, flos Matricariae Chamomillae extract, herba Portulacae extract, herba Centellae extract, rhizoma Zingiberis recens extract, bisabolol, and Aloe extract.
The ginger root extract in the soothing agent can enhance the activity of the skin, activate the skin, has the effects of resisting oxidation and aging, can reduce skin allergy, promote immune defense, activate immune active cells, regulate inflammation, reduce skin sensitivity, protect the skin and assist self-repair of the skin.
The whitening and moisturizing mask can be properly added with an antioxidant and a chelating agent. Generally speaking, the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0-2% of the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing mask; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0.01-1%. The antioxidant can be one or more of vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxytoluene, lycopene, etc. The chelating agent may be disodium EDTA and/or tetrasodium EDTA and the like.
The whitening and moisturizing mask disclosed by the invention can be properly added with a preservative and an aromatic. The addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5% based on the total mass of the whitening and moisturizing mask; the amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5%. The preservative can comprise one or the combination of more than two of phenoxyethanol, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, benzoic acid and salts thereof. The aromatic may be a perfume, etc.
Third embodiment
A third embodiment of the present invention provides a method for preparing the whitening and moisturizing mask of the second embodiment, comprising the step of mixing the components of the whitening and moisturizing mask.
Specifically, the preparation method of the whitening and moisturizing mask provided by the invention can comprise the following steps:
1. adding water, humectant, thickener, chelating agent and part of antiseptic into a stirring pot, stirring and heating to 75-85 deg.C;
2. cooling to 60-70 deg.C, adding pH regulator, and stirring;
3. cooling to 40-50 deg.C, adding whitening cosmetic additive, solubilizer, aromatic, skin conditioner, soothing agent, optional antioxidant and the rest antiseptic, and stirring;
4. cooling to 30-40 deg.C, discharging after qualified inspection, and standing for 12-48 hr;
5. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Examples
Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but those skilled in the art will appreciate that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.
Comparative examples 1 to 5
The licorice extract is used as the additive of whitening cosmetics. The licorice extract was dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffers with different volumes and pH 6.8 to obtain 5 sets of test solutions with different concentrations. Wherein, the logarithmic mass concentration of the licorice extract is shown in the following table 2.
Comparative examples 6 to 10
Herba Menthae extract is used as whitening cosmetic additive. The mint extract was dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having a pH of 6.8 at volumes corresponding to comparative examples 1-5 to give 5 sets of test solutions having concentrations corresponding to comparative examples 1-5. Wherein the logarithmic mass concentration of the mint extract is shown in the following table 2.
Examples 1 to 6
Taking Glycyrrhrizae radix extract and herba Menthae extract as whitening cosmetic additive. The whitening cosmetic additive is obtained by mixing the licorice extract and the mint extract in a mass ratio of 2:1 (example 1), 1:1 (example 2), 1:2 (example 3), 15:85 (example 4), 5:95 (example 5) and 2:98 (example 6). The whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 4 were dissolved in 5 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having a pH of 6.8 corresponding to the volumes of comparative examples 1 to 5, respectively, and the whitening cosmetic additives of examples 5 to 6 were dissolved in 4 sets of phosphate buffer solutions having a pH of 6.8 corresponding to the volumes of comparative examples 1 to 4, respectively. Examples 1-6 all gave test solutions of 5 (or 4) sets at concentrations corresponding to comparative examples 1-5 (or comparative examples 1-4). Wherein, in the whitening cosmetic additive, the contents (% by mass) of the licorice extract and the mint extract are shown in the following table 1, and the logarithmic mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive is shown in the following table 3.
TABLE 1
In vitro testing
Tyrosinase activity is measured as the tyrosinase activity that catalyzes the production of dopaquinone from L-dopa. The method specifically comprises the following steps:
taking 1 test tube, adding 0.4mL (1.0mg/mL) of substrate L-dopa solution, adding 2.4mL of phosphate buffer solution with pH of 6.8, carrying out water bath at 30 ℃ for 10min, and then adding 0.2mL (250U/mL) of tyrosinase to obtain reaction solution 1.
After taking 1 tube, 0.2mL (250U/mL) of tyrosinase was added, and 2.8mL of a phosphate buffer solution having a pH of 6.8 was added to the tube, thereby obtaining a reaction solution 2.
0.4mL (1.0mg/mL) of the substrate L-dopa solution was added to each of 38 tubes, and then 2.4mL of the test solutions of comparative examples 1 to 10 and examples 1 to 6 was added, and after incubation in a water bath at 30 ℃ for 10 minutes, the amount of tyrosinase was then added in an amount of 0.2mL (250U/mL), to obtain a reaction solution 3.
Respectively adding 2.4mL of the test solutions of comparative examples 1-10 and examples 1-6 into 38 test tubes, adding 0.4mL of phosphate buffer solution with pH of 6.8, carrying out water bath at 30 ℃ for 10min, and then adding 0.2mL (250U/mL) of tyrosinase to obtain a reaction solution 4;
the enzymatic reaction converts L-dopa to the red product dopaquinone, with maximum absorption at 475 nm. Read the absorbance A at 475nm 1min from the start of the mixing475The rate of the enzymatic reaction is defined as A per minute475Is indicated by an increased value of (a). The absorbance A at 475nm of the reaction solution 1min after the start of the reaction was measured, and the inhibition ratio of tyrosinase activity was calculated according to the following formula. Wherein, the mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive in the table is the final mass concentration of the whitening cosmetic additive in the test system.
Inhibition rate ═ 1- (A)3-A4)/(A1-A2)]×100%
In the formula: a. the1Absorbance when only the substrate is contained without adding a whitening cosmetic additive;
A2the absorbance when no whitening cosmetic additive is added and no substrate is added;
A3is the absorbance when the whitening cosmetic additive and the substrate are contained;
A4is the absorbance when the cosmetic additive contains whitening cosmetic additive and no substrate is added.
The respective tyrosinase activity inhibition rates of the licorice extract (comparative examples 1 to 5) and the mint extract (comparative examples 6 to 10) were calculated. Combining the logarithmic mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition rate relationship diagram, and calculating the corresponding mass concentration (IC) when the Glycyrrhrizae radix extract inhibition rate is 50%50A) The mass concentration (IC) corresponding to 50% inhibition rate of herba Menthae extract50B) The results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2
Then, the inhibition rate of tyrosinase by the whitening cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 6 was measured. And calculating the mass concentration (IC) of Glycyrrhrizae radix extract when the combined action of Glycyrrhrizae radix extract and herba Menthae extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50%) by combining the logarithmic mass concentration-tyrosinase inhibition rate relationship diagram50a) The mass concentration of peppermint extract ((IC) when the combined action of licorice extract and peppermint extract produces an equivalent inhibition rate (50%))50b) The results are shown in Table 3.
The effect of the combined effect of the licorice extract and the mint extract was evaluated by the interaction coefficient γ, and the specific results are shown in table 3.
γ=IC50a/IC50A+IC50b/IC50B
Wherein, IC50ARepresents the mass concentration corresponding to the inhibition ratio of the licorice extract of 50%;
IC50Brepresents the mass concentration corresponding to the inhibition rate of 50% of the mint extract;
IC50athe mass concentration of the licorice extract is expressed when the compound action of the licorice extract and the mint extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50%);
IC50bthe mass concentration of the mint extract is shown when the combined action of the licorice extract and the mint extract produces an equivalent inhibition rate (50%).
Wherein γ ═ 1, meaning that the licorice extract and mint extract exhibit a simple additive effect; gamma is less than 1, the liquorice extract and the mint extract show synergistic effect, and the smaller the gamma value is, the stronger the synergistic effect is; gamma is more than 1, the liquorice extract and the mint extract show antagonistic effect, and the larger the gamma value is, the greater the antagonistic effect is.
TABLE 3
As can be seen from table 3, the interaction coefficient of the whitening cosmetic additive of the present invention is less than 1, and the interaction coefficient value thereof may be 0.6 or less, and may even be 0.5 or less, so that the licorice extract and the mint extract may exhibit excellent synergistic effects.
Application examples 1 to 8
The whitening and moisturizing mask is prepared according to the content (mass percentage) of each component in the formula of the whitening and moisturizing mask of application examples 1-8 in the following tables 4-5 and according to the following production process steps. The production process comprises the following steps:
1. adding A, B and C phase raw materials into a stirring pot, stirring and heating to 82-85 ℃;
2. cooling to 65 deg.C, adding phase D, stirring
3. Cooling to 42 ℃, adding E, F phase and stirring evenly;
4. cooling to 37 ℃, discharging after the inspection is qualified, and standing for 24 hours;
5. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Note: the A, B, C, D, E, F phases in the process are respectively,
phase A: water;
phase B: butanediol, glycerol, xanthan gum, tremella polysaccharide, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium hyaluronate, dipropylene glycol, carbomer, cassava starch and EDTA disodium;
and C phase: methylparaben, glyceryl polyether-26, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, trehalose;
phase D: aminomethyl propanol;
phase E: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, essence;
and (3) phase F: licorice extract, mint extract, ginger root extract, kelp extract, allantoin, beta-glucan and phenoxyethanol.
The liquorice extract and the mint extract used in the formula are whitening cosmetic additives;
butanediol, glycerol, Tremella polysaccharide, sodium hyaluronate, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, trehalose, dipropylene glycol, and glyceryl polyether-26 as humectant;
hydroxyethyl cellulose, tapioca starch, xanthan gum and carbomer are thickening agents;
the giant kelp extract, beta-glucan and allantoin are skin conditioners;
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is a solubilizer; ginger root extract is a soothing agent;
disodium EDTA is a chelating agent; aminomethyl propanol is a pH adjusting agent.
Phenoxyethanol and methyl hydroxybenzoate as antiseptic; the essence is an aromatic.
In the invention, the liquorice extract is prepared by manufacturers and Fuzhou City exhibition Biotechnology Co., Ltd;
mint extract manufacturers, Quzhou Guanzhou City exhibition Biotech Co.
TABLE 4
Application of comparative examples 1 to 2
According to the contents (mass percentages) of the components in the moisturizing mask formula of application comparative examples 1-2 in the following table 5, the moisturizing mask was prepared according to the same method as application examples 1-8.
TABLE 5
Whitening efficacy test
Method for testing skin melanin change rate: the content of melanin in the skin is determined by measuring the reflection of light of a specific wavelength on the skin of a human body. The emitter of the probe emits light with three wavelengths of 568nm, 660nm and 880nm to the skin surface, the receiver measures the light reflected by the skin and measures the amount of light absorbed by the skin, so as to obtain the change rate of skin melanin.
The test of the skin melanin change rate is carried out by using a pigment detector of CK company in Germany, wherein a test probe MX 18 of the skin melanin consists of a light source emitter and a light source receiver, and a spring is additionally arranged to keep the pressure on the skin constant during the detection. The measuring range of the probe is 0-999, and the higher the measuring value is, the higher the content of melanin in the skin can be indicated.
The number of the subjects is 33, the test period is 4 weeks, the whitening moisturizing facial mask of application examples 1-8 and the moisturizing facial mask of application comparative examples 1-2 are selected in the test, the whitening moisturizing facial mask is smeared on different areas of the inner side of the forearm every morning and evening, the reflection quantity of the skin of the tested area before the test (Day1) and after the skin is used for 28 days (Day28) after the light with specific wavelength is respectively measured to determine the content of the melanin in the skin, the change rate of the melanin is further characterized, and the result of the specific melanin change rate is shown in fig. 5.
As can be seen from fig. 5, the change rate of melanin is large, i.e., the melanin content is reduced, in the application examples 1 to 8 of the present application, and thus, the skin can be effectively whitened using the licorice extract and the mint extract as whitening cosmetic additives.
In addition, in application examples 6 to 8 of the present application, since the content of the licorice extract was high, the reduction of melanin content was small.
In application comparative examples 1-2 of the present application, when a licorice extract alone or a mint extract alone was used as a whitening cosmetic additive, the change rate of melanin content was small, the decrease of melanin content was small, and the whitening effect was poor.
The above examples of the present invention are merely examples for clearly illustrating the present invention and are not intended to limit the embodiments of the present invention. Other variations and modifications will be apparent to persons skilled in the art in light of the above description. And are neither required nor exhaustive of all embodiments. Any modification, equivalent replacement, and improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the claims of the present invention.