CN113116766B

CN113116766B - Collagenase inhibitor, sleeping mask containing collagenase inhibitor and preparation method of sleeping mask

Info

Publication number: CN113116766B
Application number: CN201911410629.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 杨登亮; 翟裕诗; 李传茂; 邓慧; 张楚标; 曾伟丹; 张伟杰
Original assignee: GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICAL PLANT; Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd; Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
Current assignee: GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICAL PLANT; Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd; Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
Priority date: 2019-12-31
Filing date: 2019-12-31
Publication date: 2024-03-26
Anticipated expiration: 2039-12-31
Also published as: CN113116766A

Abstract

The invention provides a collagenase inhibitor, a sleeping mask containing the collagenase inhibitor and a preparation method thereof. The collagenase inhibitor comprises: the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor is 51-83% of poria cocos extract and 17-49% of radix sophorae flavescentis extract. The collagenase inhibitor of the present invention has excellent inhibitory effect on collagenase activity and no side effect on human body.

Description

Collagenase inhibitor, sleeping mask containing collagenase inhibitor and preparation method of sleeping mask

Technical Field

The invention relates to a collagenase inhibitor, a sleeping mask containing the collagenase inhibitor and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the field of cosmetics.

Background

Collagen is mainly produced by fibroblasts of the dermis layer, is a main component of the dermis layer, can maintain the structure of the skin, and imparts toughness and elasticity to the skin. The collagen content and distribution determine whether the skin is youthful. However, abnormal decrease of collagen content causes thinning of dermis, slackening of skin, loss of elasticity, occurrence of wrinkles, and influence of life quality of people. With the continued intensive research on collagen, researchers have found that collagenase plays an important role in the dynamic balance of skin collagen, and that its overexpression and abnormal activation are one of the main causes of skin aging. Therefore, inhibiting collagenase activity can block skin collagen degradation, increase collagen content, and realize anti-aging effect.

For factors affecting skin collagen content, the main approaches to skin anti-aging and skin care include the following: (1) Increasing collagen synthesis by stimulating proliferation of dermal fibroblasts; (2) The collagen synthesis speed of the fibroblast is stimulated by the active factors, so that the total amount of the collagen in the dermis layer is increased; (3) The catalytic activity of a key enzyme-collagenase for inhibiting collagen degradation in the dermis is used for slowing down the degradation speed of the collagen, so as to achieve the purpose of resisting aging; (4) The sun protection is adopted to prevent ultraviolet rays in sunlight from damaging collagen in skin and slow down photoaging of the skin; (5) The antioxidant is used for removing excessive oxygen free radicals in the skin, so that the induced expression of collagenase and abnormal cross-linking of biomacromolecules are slowed down.

In the prior art, in order to prevent skin from sagging, losing elasticity, wrinkling and the like, and keep skin youthful, anti-aging products mixed with various components such as hydrolyzed collagen, hyaluronic acid, polypeptide, retinol and derivatives thereof have been proposed. However, if these ingredients are used in large amounts, there are problems in terms of anti-aging effects, skin feel in use, and safety. If the molecular weight of the hydrolyzed collagen is too large, the hydrolyzed collagen is not easy to penetrate through the skin barrier of the human body to reach the dermis layer; hyaluronic acid cannot substantially slow down the loss of collagen; polypeptides and retinol present a certain irritation and safety risk to the skin, etc.

Along with the increase of the attention of people to skin health, the development of the natural anti-aging agent with safety, stability, obvious effect and high cost performance becomes one of the main research directions of the current medicine and cosmetic industry, and has very good development prospect.

Disclosure of Invention

Problems to be solved by the invention

In view of the prior art, the hydrolyzed collagen has excessive molecular weight, and is not easy to penetrate through the skin barrier of the human body to reach the dermis; hyaluronic acid cannot substantially slow down the loss of collagen; the invention firstly provides a collagenase inhibitor and a preparation method thereof, wherein the polypeptide and the retinol have certain irritation to skin, safety risk and the like.

Furthermore, the invention also provides a sleeping mask containing the collagenase inhibitor, and the sleeping mask has excellent anti-aging effect.

Furthermore, the invention also provides a preparation method of the sleeping mask, which is simple to operate and easy to obtain raw materials.

Solution for solving the problem

The present invention provides a collagenase inhibitor comprising: the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor is 51-83% of poria cocos extract and 17-49% of radix sophorae flavescentis extract.

The collagenase inhibitor according to the present invention, wherein the mass ratio of the poria extract to the kuh-seng extract is 1.1 to 4.8:1, preferably 1.3 to 4.6:1, more preferably 1.5 to 4.5:1, still more preferably 1.8 to 4.2:1, still more preferably 1.6 to 4:1, still more preferably 1.4 to 3.8:1.

The collagenase inhibitor according to the present invention, wherein the collagenase is a interstitial collagenase.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the collagenase inhibitor, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the collagenase inhibitor.

The invention also provides a sleeping mask, which comprises the collagenase inhibitor and the penetration enhancer, wherein the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is 0.01-10% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.01-10%.

The sleeping mask disclosed by the invention, wherein the penetration enhancer comprises one or a combination of more than two of propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate and chitosan.

The sleeping mask comprises one or more than two of a humectant, a thickening agent, a pH regulator, grease, an emulsifying agent, a preservative, a skin conditioning agent, a skin whitening agent, a sensitivity-relieving agent, a solubilizer, a chelating agent and a flavoring agent;

Preferably, the humectant is added in an amount of 0.01-20% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-0.8%, the addition amount of the pH regulator is 0.01-1%, the addition amount of the grease is 1-10%, the addition amount of the emulsifying agent is 0.01-2%, the addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5%, the addition amount of the skin conditioning agent is 0.01-5%, the addition amount of the skin whitening agent is 0.01-5%, the addition amount of the sensitivity-relieving agent is 0.01-5%, the addition amount of the solubilizing agent is 0.01-0.5%, the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0.01-1%, and the addition amount of the aromatic agent is 0.005-0.5%.

The sleeping mask comprises one or more than two of pearl powder, trehalose, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-8, hydrolyzed collagen, a giant alga extract, a green alga extract, a red alga phylum alga extract, a brown alga extract, a Fucus vesiculosus extract, palmitoyl oligopeptide, magnesium aspartate, oat peptide, pansy extract and a chlorella fermentation product.

The sleeping mask according to the present invention, wherein the skin whitening agent comprises one or a combination of two or more of nicotinamide, magnolia sieboldii extract, kojic acid and its derivatives, arbutin and its derivatives, vitamin C; and/or the number of the groups of groups,

The sensitivity-relieving agent comprises one or more of Hamamelis virginiana water, centella asiatica extract, ginger root extract, bisabolol and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the sleeping mask, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the sleeping mask.

ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION

The collagenase inhibitor of the present invention has excellent inhibitory effect on collagenase activity and no side effect on human body.

The sleeping mask disclosed by the invention is mild in formula, and can effectively improve skin elasticity, so that an anti-aging effect is achieved.

The preparation method of the sleeping mask is simple to operate, raw materials are easy to obtain, and the sleeping mask can be produced in batches.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the relationship between the logarithmic mass concentration of Poria cocos extract and the inhibition rate of collagenase activity in comparative examples 1 to 5 of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a graph showing the relationship between the logarithmic mass concentration and the collagenase activity inhibition ratio of the kuh-seng root extract of comparative examples 6 to 10 of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a graph showing the relationship between the logarithmic mass concentration of collagenase inhibitor and the inhibition rate of collagenase activity in examples 1 to 5 of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a graph showing the relationship between the content of Poria cocos extract and the interaction coefficient in collagenase inhibitors of examples 1 to 5 according to the present invention.

Fig. 5 shows a comparative graph of skin elasticity change rates of application examples 1 to 5 of the present invention and application comparative examples 1 to 8.

Detailed Description

Various exemplary embodiments, features and aspects of the invention are described in detail below. The word "exemplary" is used herein to mean "serving as an example, embodiment, or illustration. Any embodiment described herein as "exemplary" is not necessarily to be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments.

Furthermore, in the following detailed description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a better illustration of the invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced without some of these specific details. In other instances, well known methods, procedures, means, equipment and steps have not been described in detail so as not to obscure the present invention.

It should be noted that:

in the present specification, the use of the meaning of "can" or "can" includes both the meaning of performing a certain process and the meaning of not performing a certain process.

In the present specification, the numerical range indicated by the term "numerical value a to numerical value B" means a range including the end point numerical value A, B.

Unless otherwise indicated, all units used in the present invention are international standard units, and numerical values, ranges of values, appearing in the present invention should be understood to include errors permitted in industrial production.

Reference throughout this specification to "some specific/preferred embodiments," "other specific/preferred embodiments," "an embodiment," and so forth, means that a particular element (e.g., feature, property, and/or characteristic) described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment described herein, and may or may not be present in other embodiments. In addition, it is to be understood that the elements may be combined in any suitable manner in the various embodiments.

In a first aspect, the present invention provides a collagenase inhibitor comprising: the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor is 51-83% of poria cocos extract and 17-49% of radix sophorae flavescentis extract.

The inventors of the present invention found that using a combination of kuh-seng extract and poria extract can produce excellent synergistic effects, so that collagenase activity can be inhibited to achieve an anti-aging effect.

Specifically, in the present invention, the mass ratio of the poria cocos extract to the kuh-seng extract is 1.1-4.8:1, preferably 1.3-4.6:1, more preferably 1.5-4.5:1, still more preferably 1.8-4.2:1, still more preferably 1.6-4:1, and still more preferably 1.4-3.8:1. When the mass ratio of the poria extract to the kuh-seng extract is in the above range, it is possible to further have a synergistic effect and an excellent effect of inhibiting collagenase activity.

The method for producing the collagenase inhibitor of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a method commonly used in the art, and may specifically include a step of mixing the components of the collagenase inhibitor. For example, the poria extract and the kuh-seng extract are uniformly mixed by adopting a conventional mixing mode.

Collagenase enzyme

Collagenases belong to the class of matrix metalloproteinases (Matrix Metalloproteinase, MMPs). Matrix metalloproteinases are a family of endopeptidases whose biological activity depends on zinc ions and which have the ability to degrade the extracellular Matrix (ECM). The main function of collagenase is to degrade collagen and elastin in dermis, and its tissue type inhibitor (Tissue Inhibitors of Metalloproteinase, TIMPs) specifically inhibits collagenase activity by covalent binding to its highly conserved zinc binding site, and together regulate matrix metabolism, maintaining the structure of dermis.

Collagenases include interstitial collagenase (MMP-1), polymorphonuclear collagenase (MMP-8) and collagenase 3 (MMP-13). Wherein, the interstitial collagenase is also called collagenase-1, has multiple functions and can act on different substrates. The matrix collagenase is capable of degrading several matrix molecules such as aggrecan, multipolycan, decorin, casein, entactin, serine protein inhibitors and mucin-C. Thus, the interstitial collagenase plays a key role in the physiological repair of the extracellular matrix. The invention is mainly based on the important role of the interstitial collagenase in the skin aging process, and can inhibit the activity of the interstitial collagenase, thereby reducing skin inflammatory reaction and wrinkles, and being used as a way for delaying aging so as to realize the anti-aging effect.

The purpose of the collagenase inhibitor of the present invention is to inhibit collagenase activity, for example: inhibiting the activity of interstitial collagenase, but not the expression of collagenase.

Poria cocos extract

Poria is dry sclerotium of Polyporaceae fungus Poria (Poria cocos (Schw.) Wolf), also known as Poria, and Poria, etc., and is mainly produced in Yunnan, anhui, hubei, henan, sichuan, etc., and is a traditional Chinese medicinal material and nutritional health food for prolonging life. Poria cocos is sweet, light and flat in taste; it has the effects of inducing diuresis, removing dampness, invigorating spleen, calming heart and tranquilizing mind.

Pachyman and triterpene compounds are main chemical components of Poria, and further contain steroid components, fatty acid, protein, adenine, amino acid, and inorganic elements such as calcium, magnesium, iron, and potassium. Poria has pharmacological effects in inhibiting tumor, relieving inflammation, regulating immunity, and protecting liver. The Poria extract extracted from Poria has good skin caring effect, and can lighten speckle, restore skin elasticity, and improve skin dryness.

In the present invention, the poria cocos extract is added in an amount of 51-83% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor. When the amount of the Poria cocos extract is 51-83%, collagenase activity can be effectively inhibited.

Kuh-seng root extract

The radix Sophorae Flavescentis is dried root of Sophora flavescens (Sophora flavescens Alt.) of Sophora (Sophora) of Leguminosae (Leguminosae). Radix Sophorae Flavescentis is herb or sub-shrub, is in shrub shape, and is produced in regions of south and north provinces in China, india, japan, korea, russian Siberian, etc. The radix Sophorae Flavescentis can be planted in hillside or sand grass slope shrubs or near field, and has an altitude below 1500 m.

The kuh-seng has the effects of clearing heat, drying dampness and promoting urination. Has been used as bitter stomach-invigorating agent, diuretic and antiinflammatory. The chemical components of the composition mainly comprise alkaloid and flavonoid compounds, and dialkyl chromone, quinone and triterpene saponin. Wherein the alkaloid component mainly contains matrine, sophocarpine, oxymatrine, sophoridine, etc.

The prenylflavonoids in radix Sophorae Flavescentis can reduce melanin production, and has skin whitening effect. Matrine can reduce anaphylaxis medium release, can be used as immunosuppressant, and radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract can promote growth and repair of injured vascular nerve cells, recover subcutaneous capillary cell activity, and make skin compact and smooth.

In the present invention, the amount of the extract of kuh-seng root added is 17-49% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor. When the adding amount of the kuh-seng root extract is 17-49%, the collagenase activity can be effectively inhibited.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a sleeping mask comprising a collagenase inhibitor according to the first aspect of the present invention and a penetration enhancer; the invention can inhibit the activity of collagenase, in particular to the activity of interstitial collagenase by adding a proper content of collagenase inhibitor, so that the sleeping mask has excellent anti-aging effect and can improve skin elasticity. The sleeping mask of the present invention also uses a penetration enhancer in order to promote the absorption of collagenase inhibitors by the skin. The collagenase inhibitors of the present invention can be used to a greater extent by using a permeation enhancer.

Wherein the collagenase inhibitor is added in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total mass of the sleeping mask, for example: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, etc. When the collagenase inhibitor is added in an amount of between 0.01 and 10%, the skin elasticity after the use of the collagenase inhibitor increases. When the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is less than 0.01%, the anti-aging effect cannot be achieved; when the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is more than 10%, the content of the collagenase inhibitor is too high, the cost is too high, and the corresponding anti-aging effect is not obviously improved.

The addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.01-10% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask. When the addition amount of the permeation enhancer is less than 0.01%, the permeation enhancer effect is not obvious. When the addition amount of the permeation enhancer is more than 10%, the permeation enhancer cannot further act.

In the present invention, the permeation enhancer includes one or a combination of two or more of propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate and chitosan. The present invention preferably uses a combination of propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, and the propylene glycol and the bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate have a synergistic effect, which can make the absorption effect of the collagenase inhibitor more excellent.

When a combination of propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate is used as the penetration enhancer, the amount of propylene glycol added is 0.01 to 5% and the amount of bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate added is 0.01 to 5% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask. When the propylene glycol is added in an amount of 0.01 to 5% and the bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate is added in an amount of 0.01 to 5%, the absorption effect of the collagenase inhibitor can be effectively improved. For example: the amount of propylene glycol added was 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2.5%, 3.5%, 4.5%, etc., and the amount of bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate added was 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2.5%, 3.5%, 4.5%.

In the invention, the sleeping mask comprises one or more than two of moisturizer, thickener, pH regulator, grease, emulsifier, preservative, skin conditioner, skin whitening agent, skin soothing agent, solubilizer, chelating agent and aromatic; the sleeping mask disclosed by the invention is mild in formula composition, and the efficacy of the collagenase inhibitor disclosed by the invention can be fully exerted. Specifically:

the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask. When the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%, the moisturizing effect can be achieved. In order to further exert the effect of the humectant, the humectant of the present invention may be preferably added in an amount of 1 to 18%, 3 to 16%, 5 to 15%, 6 to 14%, 7 to 12%, etc. When the content of the humectant is less than 0.01%, the moisturizing effect is not obvious; when the content of the humectant is higher than 20%, the sleeping mask has sticky feel.

In the present invention, the humectant may include one or a combination of two or more of butanediol, glycerol polyacrylate, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, and the like.

The amount of the grease added is 1-10% by weight of the total mass of the sleeping mask, for example: the amount of the oil may be 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, etc. When the content of the oil is in the range of 1-10%, not only a hydrophobic film can be formed on the skin surface to prevent invasion of external harmful substances, but also evaporation of moisture on the skin surface can be suppressed to prevent skin chapping. When the addition amount of the grease is less than 1%, invasion of harmful substances cannot be effectively prevented; when the addition amount of the grease is more than 10%, the sleeping mask is too greasy, and the use feeling is reduced.

In the invention, the grease comprises one or more than two of a compound of polydimethylsiloxane and dimethiconol, ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl polymethylsiloxane, isopropyl myristate, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, cyclopentadimethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, oleyl erucate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, shea butter, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclohexasiloxane and C20-24 alkyl dimethicone.

The addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-0.8% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask. When the addition amount of the thickener is between 0.02 and 0.8 percent, the sleeping mask can have gel texture or cream texture. When the addition amount of the thickener is less than 0.02%, the texture of the sleeping mask is thinner; when the addition amount of the thickener is more than 0.8%, the sleeping mask is too thick, and the active ingredients of the sleeping mask are not easy to be absorbed by skin.

In the invention, the thickener comprises one or more than two of acrylic acid (ester) type/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, xanthan gum, carbomer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer and hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

The amount of the emulsifier added is 0.01-2%, preferably 0.1-1.5% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask. When the using amount of the emulsifier is less than 0.01%, insufficient emulsification is caused, so that the system is unstable; when the dosage of the emulsifier is more than 2%, the irritation of the product can be increased, and meanwhile, the stability of the product can be influenced to a certain extent.

In the present invention, the emulsifier comprises one or a combination of more than two of polyacrylamide, laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffin, sorbitan isostearate, polysiloxane-13, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 polydimethylsiloxane, PEG-12 polymethylsiloxane/PPG-20 crosslinked polymer.

The invention preferably uses the compound of polyacrylamide, laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffin as an emulsifier, can emulsify and stabilize various oil phases, and can make the texture of the sleeping mask excellent and avoid caking.

The emulsifying system of the present invention is a non-water-in-oil system, and therefore, when propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate are used as the permeation enhancer, the synergistic effect is not affected even if they are not added at the same time.

The addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask. By adding the solubilizer, the raw materials of the sleeping mask can be more easily dissolved. Preferably, the amount of the solubilizer added is 0.05-0.2%,0.1-0.2%, etc. In the present invention, the solubilizer comprises one or more than two of polysorbate-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and glyceryl ether-25 PCA isostearate.

The addition amount of the pH regulator is 0.01-1% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask. The pH value of the sleeping mask is more suitable for human skin by adding the pH regulator. Preferably, the pH adjustor of the present invention may be added in an amount of 0.03 to 0.8%, may be 0.06 to 0.5%, may be 0.1 to 0.3%, etc. When the addition amount of the pH adjustor is more than 1% or less than 0.01%, a sleep mask having a proper pH cannot be obtained. In the present invention, the pH adjuster includes one or a combination of two or more of aminomethylpropanol, arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide, and the like, which are safe in composition.

In order to further improve the efficacy of the sleep mask, the sleep mask further comprises the skin conditioner. The skin conditioner is added to calm the skin, so that the facial skin injury red swelling can be relieved to a certain extent, and the generation of wrinkles can be reduced. The effective components in the skin conditioner can penetrate deep into skin and be absorbed by skin, so as to improve skin state.

The addition amount of the skin conditioning agent is 0.01-5% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask. Preferably, the skin conditioning agent may be added in an amount of 0.1 to 4%, 0.5 to 3%, 0.9 to 2%, etc. When the addition amount of the skin conditioning agent is less than 0.01%, the corresponding effect cannot be achieved; when the addition amount of the skin conditioner is more than 5%, the cost is excessively high.

The skin conditioner comprises one or more than two of pearl powder, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-8, hydrolyzed collagen, trehalose, kelp extract, chlorella extract, rhodophyta extract, brown algae extract, fucus vesiculosus extract, palmitoyl oligopeptide, magnesium aspartate, oat peptide, pansy extract and chlorella fermentation product.

The skin conditioner can be added with a small amount of hydrolyzed collagen, and the hydrolyzed collagen can supplement proper collagen in human skin, can act on dermis and delay aging. The hydrolyzed collagen can also improve microcirculation, remove spots and wrinkles, tighten skin and repair fine wrinkles. In addition, hydrolyzed collagen can shrink pores, and can supplement water and preserve moisture.

The chelating agent is added in an amount of 0.01-1% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask. The chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA and/or tetrasodium EDTA.

The sleeping mask of the invention can be added with a small amount of skin whitening agent. The skin whitening agent can play a role in brightening skin color and achieve a certain whitening effect. The addition amount of the skin whitening agent is 0.01-5% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask; for example, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% and the like are possible. When the addition amount of the skin whitening agent is less than 0.01%, the content is too low to achieve the corresponding effect; when the addition amount of the skin whitening agent is more than 5%, the cost is excessively high.

Specifically, the skin whitening agent comprises one or more of nicotinamide, magnolia sieboldii extract, kojic acid and derivatives thereof, arbutin and derivatives thereof, and vitamin C.

The sleeping mask of the invention can be added with a small amount of a sensitivity-relieving agent. The skin can be calmed by adding the sensitivity-soothing agent, so that the face skin injury red swelling is relieved to a certain extent, and the face skin injury red swelling can be helped to resist inflammation, relieve and promote cell repair.

The addition amount of the sensitivity-relieving agent is 0.01-5% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask; for example, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4% and the like are possible. When the addition amount of the allergy-relieving agent is less than 0.01%, the allergy-relieving effect is not obvious. When the addition amount of the sensitivity-relieving agent is more than 5%, the effect of relieving the sensitivity cannot be further achieved, and the cost is too high.

In addition, the sleeping mask of the invention can also contain an antioxidant, a preservative and a fragrance. The addition amount of the antioxidant is 0-2%, the addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5% and the addition amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask. The antioxidant may be one or a combination of two or more of vitamin E, tocopheryl acetate, butylhydroxytoluene, lycopene, ascorbyl ethyl ether, etc. The preservative can be one or a combination of more than two of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, benzoic acid and salts thereof, and propylparaben. The aromatic may be essence, etc.

The sleeping mask can block the contact between facial skin and air, block the evaporation of skin moisture, increase the humidity of horny layer and soften horny layer; the skin temperature is raised to expand capillary pores, which is beneficial for the nutrient components to be absorbed smoothly. In addition, the sleeping mask also contains a penetration enhancer, so that the absorption of the collagenase inhibitor can be further promoted.

< third aspect >

A third aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing the sleep mask of the second aspect, comprising the step of mixing the components of the sleep mask.

Specifically, the preparation method of the sleeping mask comprises the following steps:

1. adding water, humectant, part of penetration enhancer, thickener, chelating agent and part of antiseptic into emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 75-85deg.C;

2. slowly pumping the grease into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 1-5min, and stirring at 75-85deg.C for 10-20min;

3. slowly pumping the emulsifier into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 1-5min, and stirring at 75-85deg.C for 10-20min;

4. cooling to 60-70deg.C, adding pH regulator, homogenizing for 2-8min, and stirring;

5. cooling to 40-50deg.C, adding skin conditioner, skin whitening agent, skin-soothing agent, residual penetration enhancer, collagenase inhibitor, optionally antioxidant, solubilizer, aromatic and residual antiseptic, and stirring;

6. cooling to 30-40deg.C, discharging, and standing for 12-48 hr;

7. and after the inspection is qualified, sub-packaging and packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.

Examples

Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but it will be understood by those skilled in the art that the following examples are only for illustrating the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The specific conditions are not noted in the examples and are carried out according to conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or apparatus used were conventional products commercially available without the manufacturer's attention.

Poria extract was purchased from: nanjing Seebeckae Biochemical industry Co., ltd;

kuh-seng root extract is purchased from: beijing Bei Lilai S Biochemical Co.

Comparative examples 1 to 5

Poria cocos wolf extract is provided as collagenase inhibitor. The poria cocos extracts are dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water with different volumes to obtain 5 groups of test solutions, and the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions are respectively 1200 mug/mL, 960 mug/mL, 720 mug/mL, 480 mug/mL and 240 mug/mL. The logarithmic mass concentration of the poria extract is shown in table 2 and fig. 1 below.

Comparative examples 6 to 10

Radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract is provided as collagenase inhibitor. The kuh-seng extract was dissolved in 5 deionized water groups corresponding to the volumes of comparative examples 1 to 5 to obtain 5 test solutions, and the concentrations of the 5 test solutions were 400. Mu.g/mL, 320. Mu.g/mL, 240. Mu.g/mL, 160. Mu.g/mL, 80. Mu.g/mL, respectively. The logarithmic mass concentration of the kuh-seng extract is shown in table 2 and fig. 2 below.

Examples 1 to 5

Poria extract and radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract are provided as collagenase inhibitor. Mixing Poria extract and radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract at mass ratio of 1:2 (example 1), 1:1 (example 2), 2:1 (example 3), 3:1 (example 4), and 5:1 (example 5) to obtain collagenase inhibitor.

The collagenase inhibitors of example 1 were dissolved in 5 sets of deionized water, respectively, to give 5 sets of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 sets of test solutions being 400 μg/mL, 320 μg/mL, 240 μg/mL, 160 μg/mL, 80 μg/mL, respectively.

The collagenase inhibitors of example 2 were dissolved in 5 deionized water groups, respectively, to give 5 test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 test solutions being 400. Mu.g/mL, 320. Mu.g/mL, 240. Mu.g/mL, 160. Mu.g/mL, 80. Mu.g/mL, respectively.

The collagenase inhibitors of example 3 were dissolved in 5 sets of deionized water, respectively, to give 5 sets of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 sets of test solutions being 640 μg/mL, 480 μg/mL, 320 μg/mL, 160 μg/mL, 80 μg/mL, respectively.

The collagenase inhibitors of example 4 were dissolved in 5 sets of deionized water, respectively, to give 5 sets of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 sets of test solutions being 640 μg/mL, 480 μg/mL, 320 μg/mL, 160 μg/mL, 80 μg/mL, respectively.

The collagenase inhibitors of example 5 were dissolved in 5 sets of deionized water, respectively, to give 5 sets of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 sets of test solutions being 640 μg/mL, 480 μg/mL, 320 μg/mL, 160 μg/mL, 80 μg/mL, respectively.

Wherein, the content (mass%) of the Poria cocos extract and the radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract in the collagenase inhibitor is shown in the following table 1, and the logarithmic mass concentration of the collagenase inhibitor is shown in the following table 3.

TABLE 1

Assay for inhibition of collagenase Activity

The Fu Lin Fen reagent can be reduced to blue by phenol compound (molybdenum blue and tungsten blue mixture) under alkaline condition, and the protein and its hydrolysate can be reacted due to amino acid containing phenol group (such as tyrosine, tryptophan, etc.) in protein molecule, so that the principle can be used for measuring protease activity. In general, casein is used as substrate, under the condition of a certain pH value and temperature, the casein is hydrolyzed by collagenase, after a period of time, the enzymolysis reaction is stopped by trichloroacetic acid, after the casein precipitate is removed by centrifugation or filtration, the supernatant is taken, and Na is used ₂ CO ₃ Alkalizing, adding Fu Lin Fen reagent to develop color, and measuring the blue color in proportion to the tyrosine amount of the product in the filtrate at 650nm wavelength by a spectrophotometer to calculate the activity of collagenase.

In the test, collagenase was used as matrix collagenase (MMP-1), purchased from: shanghai ze Biotechnology Co., ltd.

Collagenase activity is measured as collagenase activity that catalyzes the production of tyrosine from casein. The method comprises the following steps:

(1) taking 1 test tube, adding deionized water 0.25mL and collagenase 0.25mL (32U/mL) respectively, then adding substrate casein solution 0.5mL (1.0% w/v) and immediately mixing uniformly, carrying out water bath heat preservation for 10min at 37 ℃, then adding trichloroacetic acid solution 1mL (6.5% w/v) and mixing uniformly, standing for 10min, centrifuging at 10000rpm for 5min, taking supernatant sample 0.5mL in the test tube in another test tube, adding sodium bicarbonate test solution 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) respectively, and shaking uniformly. After 10 minutes, 0.5ml of Fu Lin Fen test solution (diluted 2 times of Fu Lin Fen test solution with 1mol/L acid concentration) is added respectively, and the mixture is immediately mixed and left at room temperature for 30 minutes; the supernatant 1 of the test group was obtained, and absorbance was measured at a wavelength of 650nm and designated as A1.

(2) Taking 1 test tube, adding deionized water 0.25mL and collagenase 0.25mL (32U/mL) respectively, then adding trichloroacetic acid solution 1mL (6.5%, w/v) and immediately mixing uniformly, carrying out water bath heat preservation for 10min at 37 ℃, then adding substrate casein solution 0.5mL (1.0%, w/v) and mixing uniformly, standing for 10min, centrifuging at 10000rpm for 5min, taking supernatant sample 0.5mL in the test tube into another test tube, adding sodium bicarbonate test solution 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) respectively, and shaking uniformly. After 10 minutes, 0.5ml of Fu Lin Fen test solution (diluted 2 times of Fu Lin Fen test solution with 1mol/L acid concentration) is added respectively, and the mixture is immediately mixed and left at room temperature for 30 minutes; control supernatant 2 was obtained, and absorbance was measured at a wavelength of 650nm and designated as A2.

(3) 0.25mL (32U/mL) of collagenase is added into 35 test tubes respectively, then 0.25mL of the test solutions of comparative examples 1-10 and examples 1-5 are added respectively and mixed evenly, then 0.5mL (1.0 percent, w/v) of substrate casein solution is added and mixed evenly immediately, after water bath heat preservation is carried out for 10min at 37 ℃, 1mL (6.5 percent, w/v) of trichloroacetic acid solution is added and mixed evenly, after standing for 10min, centrifugation is carried out for 5min at 10000rpm, 0.5mL of supernatant fluid sample in 35 test tubes is taken into 35 other test tubes respectively, and 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10 percent) of sodium bicarbonate test solution is added respectively and mixed evenly. After 10 minutes, 0.5ml of Fu Lin Fen test solution (diluted 2 times of Fu Lin Fen test solution with 1mol/L acid concentration) is added respectively, and the mixture is immediately mixed and left at room temperature for 30 minutes; 35 experimental group supernatants 3 were obtained, each absorbance was measured at a wavelength of 650nm and designated A3.

(4) 0.25mL (32U/mL) of collagenase is added into 35 test tubes respectively, then 0.25mL of the test solutions of comparative examples 1-10 and examples 1-5 are added respectively and mixed evenly, then 1mL (6.5%, w/v) of trichloroacetic acid solution is added and mixed evenly immediately, after water bath heat preservation is carried out for 10min at 37 ℃, 0.5mL (1.0%, w/v) of substrate casein solution is added and mixed evenly, after 10min standing, centrifugation is carried out for 5min at 10000rpm, 0.5mL of supernatant fluid samples in 35 test tubes are taken into 35 other test tubes respectively, and 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) of sodium bicarbonate test solution is added respectively and shaken evenly. After 10 minutes, 0.5ml of Fu Lin Fen test solution (diluted 2 times of Fu Lin Fen test solution with 1mol/L acid concentration) is added respectively, and the mixture is immediately mixed and left at room temperature for 30 minutes; 35 control supernatants 4 were obtained, each absorbance detected at a wavelength of 650nm, designated A4.

Inhibition ratio = [1- (A3-A4)/(A1-A2) ] ×100%

Wherein: a1 is absorbance of supernatant 1 of the experimental group without collagenase inhibitor;

a2 is absorbance of supernatant 2 of control group without collagenase inhibitor;

a3 is absorbance of supernatant 3 of the experimental group containing collagenase inhibitor;

a4 is absorbance of supernatant 4 of control group containing collagenase inhibitor.

The inhibition ratios of collagenase activities by the respective poria cocos extracts (comparative examples 1 to 5) and the kuh-seng extracts (comparative examples 6 to 10) were calculated. And combining the logarithmic mass concentration-collagenase activity inhibition ratio relationship graph (fig. 1 and 2), and converting to obtain the corresponding mass concentration (IC) when the inhibition ratio of Poria extract is 50% _50A ) And the mass concentration (IC) corresponding to 50% inhibition rate of radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract _50B ) The results are shown in Table 2.

TABLE 2

The collagenase activity inhibition rate of the collagenase inhibitors of examples 1 to 5 was then measured. Combining with a relation chart (figure 3) of logarithmic mass concentration and collagenase activity inhibition ratio, and calculating to obtain equivalent inhibition ratio (50%) of Poria extract and radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract by conversionDegree (IC) _50a ) When the equivalent inhibition rate (50%) is generated by the compound action of the poria cocos extract and the kuh-seng extract, the mass concentration ((IC) of the kuh-seng extract _50b ) The results are shown in Table 3.

The effect of the complex action of the Poria cocos extract and the radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract can be evaluated by the interaction coefficient gamma, and the specific results are shown in Table 3.

γ＝IC _50a /IC _50A +IC _50b /IC _50B

Wherein the IC _50A Representing the corresponding mass concentration when the inhibition rate of the poria cocos extract is 50%;

IC _50B representing the corresponding mass concentration when the inhibition rate of the kuh-seng root extract is 50%;

IC _50a indicating the mass concentration of the poria extract when the equivalent inhibition rate (50%) is generated by the compound action of the poria extract and the kuh-seng root extract;

IC _50b indicating the mass concentration of the kuh-seng root extract when the equivalent inhibition rate (50%) is generated by the compound action of the tuckahoe extract and the kuh-seng root extract.

Wherein γ=1, representing that the poria extract and the sophorae radix extract exhibit a simple additive effect; gamma < 1 is the synergistic effect of Poria extract and radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract, and the smaller the gamma value is, the stronger the synergistic effect is; gamma > 1 is the antagonistic effect of Poria extract and radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract, and the larger the gamma value is, the larger the antagonistic effect is.

TABLE 3 Table 3

Note that: in Table 3, examples 1-2 and 5 are presented in the present invention as reference examples 1-2 and 5, which can be contrasted with examples 2-3.

As can be seen from table 3, the collagenase inhibitors of the present invention have an interaction coefficient of less than 1, and may have an interaction coefficient of less than 0.8, and even less than 0.7, so that the Poria cocos extract and the radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract may exhibit excellent synergistic effects.

Application examples 1 to 5

According to the contents (mass percentages) of the respective components in the formulations of the sleep masks of application examples 1 to 5 in the following table 4, the sleep masks were prepared according to the following production process steps. The production process comprises the following steps:

1. adding phase A into emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 80-85deg.C;

2. slowly pumping phase B into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 2min, and stirring at 80-85deg.C for 15min;

3. Slowly pumping the phase C into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 2min, and stirring at 80-85deg.C for 15min;

4. cooling to 65deg.C, adding phase D, homogenizing for 4min, and stirring;

5. cooling to 45deg.C, adding E, F phase, and stirring;

6. cooling to 37 ℃, discharging, and standing for 24 hours;

Note that: the A, B, C, D, E, F phases in the process are A phases respectively: water, glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate, acrylic acid (esters) and C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, EDTA disodium and hydroxybenzoate;

and B phase: a complex of polydimethylsiloxane and dimethiconol, octyl polymethylsiloxane, ethylhexyl palmitate;

and C phase: a complex of polyacrylamide and laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffin;

and D phase: aminomethyl propanol;

e phase: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and essence;

and F phase: poria extract, radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract, trehalose, hamamelis mollis flower water, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, nicotinamide, cymbopogon macrocephalus extract, margarita powder, phenoxyethanol, and bis-diethoxy diglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester.

Glycerin, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate are humectants; PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is a solubiliser;

The compound of the polydimethylsiloxane and the dimethiconol, octyl polymethylsiloxane and ethylhexyl palmitate are grease;

the complex of polyacrylamide and laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffin is an emulsifier;

aminomethylpropanol is a pH adjuster; nicotinamide is a skin whitening agent;

acrylic acid (esters)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer is a thickener;

the kelp extract, pearl powder and trehalose are skin conditioners;

dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and witch hazel flower water are allergy relieving agents; disodium EDTA is a chelator;

propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate are permeation promoters;

phenoxyethanol and methylparaben are used as preservatives; the essence is aromatic;

poria extract and radix Sophorae Flavescentis extract are collagenase inhibitor.

The manufacturer of the composite of polyacrylamide and laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffin is Sepick under the trademark Sepigel 305.

The manufacturer of the complex of polydimethylsiloxane and dimethiconol is the silicone oil from Dow Corning under the trademark of the Ximerter PMX-1403.

Comparative examples 1 to 8 were used

According to the contents (mass percentages) of the respective components in the sleep mask formulations of application comparative examples 1 to 8 in the following table 5, sleep masks were prepared in the same manner as in application examples 1 to 5.

TABLE 4 Table 4

TABLE 5

Skin elasticity test

Skin elasticity test method: the test principle is based on suction and stretching, and the suction pressure generated on the surface of the tested skin sucks the skin into a specific test probe, and the depth of the skin sucked into the test probe is measured by a non-contact optical test system. The test probe includes a light emitter and a light receiver, and the ratio of light (the ratio of emitted light to received light) is proportional to the depth of skin drawn into the probe, thus obtaining a plot of the length of skin stretched versus time.

Measuring skin elasticity of a subject by using a probe PVM600 of German CK company and a skin elasticity measuring instrument MPA580, selecting a parameter R2 as a comparison index (R2: the ratio of the skin rebound amount without negative pressure to the maximum stretching amount with negative pressure is closer to 1, the better the skin elasticity is), measuring 3 times in total, and taking an average value; the improvement of skin elasticity in the test area by the product was evaluated by measuring the change in skin elasticity value R2 before and after use of the product.

The number of subjects was 33, the test period was 8 weeks, the sleep masks of application examples 1 to 5 and the sleep masks of application comparative examples 1 to 8 were selected as test samples, 13 different areas were divided in the forearm of the subjects, the sleep masks of application examples 1 to 5 and the sleep masks of application comparative examples 1 to 8 were applied to different areas on the inner side of the forearm in the morning and evening every day, and the application amount was about 2mg/cm ² The application position of each test sample in the test period was kept unchanged, and the skin elasticity of the test area before the test and 8 weeks of use was measured, so as to characterize the change rate of the skin elasticity, and the results of specific elasticity change rate (averaged) are shown in table 6 and fig. 5.

TABLE 6

As can be seen from table 6 and fig. 5, the application examples 1 to 5 of the present application have a large rate of change in elasticity, i.e., skin elasticity is enhanced, and therefore, the use of the poria extract and the sophorae radix extract can effectively improve skin aging.

In the application comparative examples 1 to 8 of the present application, the skin elasticity change rate is small, and thus the anti-aging effect of the application comparative examples 1 to 8 is relatively poor.

The above examples of the present invention are merely illustrative of the present invention and are not intended to limit the embodiments of the present invention. Other variations or modifications of the above teachings will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art. It is not necessary here nor is it exhaustive of all embodiments. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. which come within the spirit and principles of the invention are desired to be protected by the following claims.

Claims

1. The sleeping mask is characterized by comprising a collagenase inhibitor and a penetration enhancer, wherein the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is 0.01-10% based on the total mass of the sleeping mask; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.01-10%;

the collagenase inhibitor consists of 51-83% of poria cocos extract and 17-49% of radix sophorae flavescentis extract by total mass of the collagenase inhibitor;

the mass ratio of the poria cocos extract to the kuh-seng root extract is 3-4.8:1;

the penetration enhancer comprises propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate.

2. The sleep mask as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that, the mass ratio of the poria extract to the kuh-seng extract is 3-4.6:1.

3. The sleep mask as claimed in claim 2, characterized in that, the mass ratio of the poria extract to the kuh-seng extract is 3-4.5:1.

4. The sleep mask as claimed in claim 3, characterized in that, the mass ratio of the poria cocos extract to the kuh-seng extract is 3-4.2:1.

5. The sleep mask as claimed in claim 4, characterized in that, the mass ratio of the poria extract to the kuh-seng extract is 3-4:1.

6. The sleep mask as claimed in any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that, the collagenase is interstitial collagenase.

7. The sleep mask as claimed in any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that, the preparation method of collagenase inhibitor includes the step of mixing the components of collagenase inhibitor.

8. The sleep mask according to any one of claims 1-5, wherein the sleep mask comprises one or a combination of two or more of moisturizers, thickeners, pH modifiers, oils, emulsifiers, preservatives, skin conditioners, skin whiteners, skin-soothing agents, solubilizers, chelating agents, fragrances.

9. The sleep mask as claimed in claim 8, characterized in that, based on the total mass of the sleep mask, the humectant is added in an amount of 0.01-20%; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-0.8%, the addition amount of the pH regulator is 0.01-1%, the addition amount of the grease is 1-10%, the addition amount of the emulsifying agent is 0.01-2%, the addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5%, the addition amount of the skin conditioning agent is 0.01-5%, the addition amount of the skin whitening agent is 0.01-5%, the addition amount of the sensitivity-relieving agent is 0.01-5%, the addition amount of the solubilizing agent is 0.01-0.5%, the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0.01-1%, and the addition amount of the aromatic agent is 0.005-0.5%.

10. The sleep mask as claimed in claim 8, characterized in that, the skin conditioning agent comprises one or more than two of pearl powder, trehalose, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-8, hydrolyzed collagen, giant algae extract, green algae extract, red algae extract, brown algae extract, fucus vesiculosus extract, palmitoyl oligopeptide, magnesium aspartate, oat peptide, pansy extract, chlorella fermentation product.

11. The sleep mask as claimed in claim 8, characterized in that, the skin whitening agent comprises one or more of nicotinamide, magnolia sieboldii extract, kojic acid, arbutin, and vitamin C; and/or the number of the groups of groups,

12. A method of preparing a sleeping mask according to any one of claims 1-11, comprising the step of mixing the components of the sleeping mask.