CN113116767A - Skin refreshing lotion, preparation method thereof and collagenase inhibitor - Google Patents
Skin refreshing lotion, preparation method thereof and collagenase inhibitor Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113116767A CN113116767A CN202010025889.4A CN202010025889A CN113116767A CN 113116767 A CN113116767 A CN 113116767A CN 202010025889 A CN202010025889 A CN 202010025889A CN 113116767 A CN113116767 A CN 113116767A
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- extract
- skin
- addition amount
- collagenase
- collagenase inhibitor
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Abstract
The invention provides skin refreshing lotion, a preparation method thereof and a collagenase inhibitor. The skin-refreshing lotion comprises a collagenase inhibitor and a penetration enhancer; the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is 0.01-10% of the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.01-10%; the collagenase inhibitor comprises a ginseng extract and a chamomile extract, and the addition amount of the ginseng extract is 30-70% and the addition amount of the chamomile extract is 30-70% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor. The skin refreshing lotion disclosed by the invention is mild in formula, and can effectively improve the skin elasticity, so that an anti-aging effect is achieved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to skin refreshing lotion, a preparation method thereof and a collagenase inhibitor, belonging to the field of cosmetics.
Background
Collagen is mainly produced by fibroblasts in the dermis layer, is a main component of the dermis layer, and can maintain the structure of the skin and endow the skin with toughness and elasticity. The collagen content and distribution determine the youth or not of the skin. However, abnormal reduction of collagen content causes thinning of the dermis, skin sagging, loss of elasticity, appearance of wrinkles, and affects the quality of life of people. With the ongoing and intensive research on collagen, researchers have found that collagenase plays an important role in the dynamic balance of skin collagen, and its overexpression and abnormal activation are one of the major causes of skin aging. Therefore, inhibiting the activity of collagenase can block the degradation of collagen of skin, increase the content of collagen, and realize the anti-aging effect.
The main approaches to skin anti-aging and skin care include the following aspects, with respect to factors affecting the collagen content of the skin: (1) increasing collagen synthesis by stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts in the dermis layer; (2) increasing the total amount of collagen in the dermis by stimulating the speed of synthesizing collagen by fibroblasts through active factors; (3) the degradation speed of the collagen is slowed down by inhibiting the catalytic activity of collagenase, a key enzyme for degrading the collagen in the dermis, so that the anti-aging purpose is achieved; (4) through sun protection, the damage of ultraviolet rays in sunlight to collagen in the skin is prevented, and the photoaging of the skin is slowed down; (5) the induced expression of collagenase and abnormal cross-linking of biomacromolecules is slowed down by scavenging excess oxygen free radicals in the skin using antioxidants.
In order to prevent skin from sagging, losing elasticity, wrinkling, etc., and keep skin young, anti-aging products mixed with various components such as hydrolyzed collagen, hyaluronic acid, polypeptide, retinol and its derivatives have been proposed in the prior art. However, if these ingredients are used in large amounts, problems arise in the actual anti-aging effect, the feeling of use, and safety. If the molecular weight of the hydrolyzed collagen is too large, the hydrolyzed collagen is not easy to permeate the skin barrier of the human body to reach the dermis; hyaluronic acid cannot essentially slow down the loss of collagen; the polypeptide and the retinol have certain irritation and safety risks to the skin, and the like.
With the increase of attention of people to skin health, the development of a natural anti-aging agent with safety, stability, obvious effect and high cost performance has become one of the main research directions of the current pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, and has a very good development prospect.
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
In view of the prior art, the hydrolyzed collagen has too high molecular weight and is not easy to reach the dermis layer through the skin barrier of the human body; hyaluronic acid cannot essentially slow down the loss of collagen; the invention provides a skin refreshing lotion which contains collagenase inhibitor and has excellent anti-aging effect.
Further, the present invention provides a collagenase inhibitor capable of inhibiting collagenase activity.
Furthermore, the invention also provides a preparation method of the skin refreshing lotion, which is simple to operate and easy to obtain raw materials.
Means for solving the problems
The invention provides a skin refreshing lotion, which comprises a collagenase inhibitor and a penetration enhancer; the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is 0.01-10% of the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.01-10%;
the collagenase inhibitor comprises a ginseng extract and a chamomile extract, and the addition amount of the ginseng extract is 30-70% and the addition amount of the chamomile extract is 30-70% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor.
The skin refreshing lotion is characterized in that the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the chamomile extract is 1: 0.43-2.2, preferably 1: 0.44-2.18, more preferably 1: 0.45-2.16, further preferably 1: 0.46-2.14, further preferably 1: 0.47-2.12, and further preferably 1: 0.48-2.1.
The skin refreshing lotion comprises one or more of propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate and chitosan.
The skin refreshing lotion further comprises one or a combination of more than two of a humectant, a thickening agent, grease, a pH regulator, a preservative, an emulsifier, a skin conditioner, a solubilizer, a chelating agent, an aromatic, a soothing agent and an antioxidant;
preferably, the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-5%; the addition amount of the grease is 1-10%; the addition amount of the pH regulator is 0-1%; the addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5%; the addition amount of the emulsifier is 0.01-2%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5%; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1%; the adding amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5%; the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0.05-2%.
The skin refreshing lotion comprises one or more of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, ceramide 2, macroalgae extract, oat peptide, fucus extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, beta-glucan, chlorella fermentation product, hydrolyzed collagen, green algae extract, rhodophyta extract, brown algae extract, allantoin, ginkgo mistletoe leaf extract, cogongrass rhizome extract, ethanol, magnesium aspartate, clerodendrum spicatum extract, lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract, Antarctic Pleurotus citrinopileatus extract and cactus extract.
The skin refreshing lotion comprises one or more of bisabolol, ginger root extract, aloe vera extract, centella asiatica extract, evening primrose oil, andrographis paniculata leaf extract and hamamelis virginiana flower water.
The present invention also provides a collagenase inhibitor comprising: the collagenase inhibitor comprises a ginseng extract and a chamomile extract, wherein the ginseng extract is added in an amount of 30-70% and the chamomile extract is added in an amount of 30-70% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor.
The collagenase inhibitor according to the present invention, wherein the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the chamomile extract is 1:0.43 to 2.2, preferably 1:0.44 to 2.18, more preferably 1:0.45 to 2.16, even more preferably 1:0.46 to 2.14, even more preferably 1:0.47 to 2.12, and even more preferably 1:0.48 to 2.1.
The collagenase inhibitor according to the present invention, wherein the collagenase is interstitial collagenase.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the skin-refreshing lotion, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the skin-refreshing lotion.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The skin refreshing lotion disclosed by the invention is mild in formula, and can effectively improve the skin elasticity, so that an anti-aging effect is achieved.
The collagenase inhibitor of the present invention has an excellent inhibitory effect on collagenase activity and has no side effects on the human body.
The preparation method of the skin refreshing lotion is simple to operate, raw materials are easy to obtain, and the skin refreshing lotion can be produced in batches.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the logarithmic mass concentration-collagenase activity inhibition ratios of the ginseng extracts of comparative examples 1 to 5 of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the logarithmic mass concentration-collagenase activity inhibition ratios of the chamomile extracts of comparative examples 6 to 10 according to the invention;
FIG. 3 is a graph showing the log mass concentration of collagenase inhibitors versus the collagenase activity inhibition rate for examples 1-5 of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a graph showing the relationship between the content of ginseng extract and the interaction coefficient in collagenase inhibitors according to examples 1 to 5 of the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a graph showing the comparison of the skin elasticity change rate of examples 1 to 5 of application and comparative examples 1 to 8 of the present invention.
Detailed Description
Various exemplary embodiments, features and aspects of the invention will be described in detail below. The word "exemplary" is used exclusively herein to mean "serving as an example, embodiment, or illustration. Any embodiment described herein as "exemplary" is not necessarily to be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments.
Furthermore, in the following detailed description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a better understanding of the present invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced without some of these specific details. In other instances, methods, means, devices and steps which are well known to those skilled in the art have not been described in detail so as not to obscure the invention.
It should be noted that:
in the present specification, the meaning of "may" or "may" includes both the meaning of performing a certain process and the meaning of not performing a certain process.
In the present specification, the numerical range represented by "numerical value a to numerical value B" means a range including the end point numerical value A, B.
All units used in the present invention are international standard units unless otherwise stated, and numerical values and numerical ranges appearing in the present invention should be understood to include errors allowed in industrial production.
In the present specification, reference to "some particular/preferred embodiments," "other particular/preferred embodiments," "embodiments," and the like, means that a particular element (e.g., feature, property, and/or characteristic) described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment described herein, and may or may not be present in other embodiments. In addition, it is to be understood that the described elements may be combined in any suitable manner in the various embodiments.
<First aspect>
A first aspect of the invention provides a collagenase inhibitor comprising: the collagenase inhibitor comprises a ginseng extract and a chamomile extract, wherein the ginseng extract is added in an amount of 30-70% and the chamomile extract is added in an amount of 30-70% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor.
The inventors of the present invention found that using a combination of a chamomile extract and a ginseng extract, an excellent synergistic effect can be produced, and thus, the activity of collagenase can be inhibited to achieve an anti-aging effect.
Specifically, in the present invention, the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the chamomile extract is 1:0.43 to 2.2, preferably 1:0.44 to 2.18, more preferably 1:0.45 to 2.16, even more preferably 1:0.46 to 2.14, even more preferably 1:0.47 to 2.12, and even more preferably 1:0.48 to 2.1. When the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the chamomile extract is within the above range, a synergistic effect can be further exhibited, and the collagenase activity inhibition effect is excellent.
The method for preparing the collagenase inhibitor of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a method generally used in the art, and specifically may include a step of mixing the components of the collagenase inhibitor. For example, the ginseng extract and the chamomile extract are mixed uniformly by conventional mixing means.
Collagenase
Collagenases belong to one class of Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs). Matrix metalloproteinases are a family of endopeptidases with a zinc ion-dependent biological activity and the ability to degrade the extracellular Matrix (ECM). Collagenase mainly acts to degrade collagen and elastin in dermis, and its Tissue Type Inhibitor (TIMPs) specifically inhibits the activity of collagenase by covalently binding with its highly conserved zinc binding site, co-regulates the metabolism of the matrix, and maintains the structure of the dermis.
The collagenase includes interstitial collagenase (MMP-1), polymorphonuclear collagenase (MMP-8) and collagenase 3 (MMP-13). Among them, interstitial collagenase, also known as collagenase-1, has various functions and can act on different substrates. Interstitial collagenase degrades several matrix molecules, such as aggrecan, multipotent glycans, basement membrane proteoglycans, casein, nidogen, serine protein inhibitors, and mucin-C. Thus, interstitial collagenases play a key role in the physiological repair of the extracellular matrix. The invention is mainly based on the important function of interstitial collagenase in the skin aging process, and inhibits the activity of interstitial collagenase, thereby reducing the inflammatory reaction and wrinkles of the skin, and being used as a way for delaying aging to realize the anti-aging function.
It is to be noted that the object of the collagenase inhibitor of the present invention is to inhibit collagenase activity, for example: inhibit the activity of interstitial collagenase, but not the expression of collagenase.
Ginseng extract
Ginseng (Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer) is a perennial herbaceous plant of Araliaceae, and is one of the most potential medicinal plant resources in Changbai mountain.
Ginseng contains a variety of chemical components, such as: ginsenoside, ginseng polysaccharide, ginseng protein, polypeptide and the like. Wherein Ginsenoside (Ginsenoside) is a steroid compound, and is triterpene saponin with dammarane type and tetracyclic triterpene as main structure in chemical structure. Ginsenoside is one of representative active ingredients in ginseng, and is widely present in plants of the genus panax. The ginseng polysaccharide is another effective active ingredient of ginseng and is a good natural drug effect ingredient. The combined application of the ginseng polysaccharide and the small molecular chemotherapeutic drug can repair and reduce the damage of the chemotherapeutic drug to the human immune system, and play the role of synergy and attenuation.
The Ginseng radix extract can be used as a natural additive for cosmetic production. Ginsenoside has effects of resisting oxidation, preventing ultraviolet, and protecting skin, and is one of physiologically active substances in Ginseng radix. Ginsenoside can also stimulate the activity of skin fibroblasts, promote collagen synthesis, and increase the SOD content and activity in skin within a certain range. The Ginseng radix extract has high ginsenoside content, and can scavenge DPPH (1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine) free radical.
In the invention, the ginseng extract is added in an amount of 30-70% by mass based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor. When the addition amount of the ginseng extract is 30-70%, the collagenase activity can be effectively inhibited. Specifically, the ginseng extract may be added in an amount of 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 55%, 60%, 65%, etc.
Chamomile extract
Chamomile (Matricaria recutita L), also known as chamomile, is an annual herb of the chamomilla genus (Matricaria) of the family Compositae (Compositae). Chamomile is an important medicinal plant and spice raw material, and is mostly used as a medicine by using inflorescence or whole herbs. Chamomile is sweet, fragrant, slightly bitter in taste and rich in bioactive substances.
Essential oil extracted from flos Matricariae Chamomillae contains terpenoids, bisabolol, chamazulene, etc. as main ingredients, and has effects of diminishing inflammation, resisting allergy, relieving spasm, inhibiting bacteria, clearing heat, treating ulcer, etc.; the chamomile is rich in phenolic acid, coumarins and flavonoids, and has the effects of resisting oxidation, protecting liver, resisting vascular proliferation, diminishing inflammation, resisting allergy, resisting virus and the like.
In the invention, the chamomile extract is added in an amount of 30-70% by mass based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor. When the addition amount of the chamomile extract is 30-70%, collagenase activity can be effectively inhibited. Specifically, the added amount of the chamomile extract may be 35%, 40%, 45%, 50%, 55%, 60%, 65%, or the like.
<Second aspect of the invention>
In a second aspect, the invention provides a skin-refreshing lotion comprising a collagenase inhibitor according to the first aspect of the invention and a penetration enhancer; the invention can inhibit the activity of collagenase, particularly the activity of interstitial collagenase by adding a proper amount of collagenase inhibitor, so that the skin refreshing lotion has excellent anti-aging effect and can improve the skin elasticity. In order to promote the absorption of the collagenase inhibitor by the skin, the skin refreshing lotion also uses a penetration enhancer. By using a penetration enhancer, the collagenase inhibitor of the present invention can be exerted to a greater extent.
Wherein, the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is 0.01-10% based on the total mass of the skin-refreshing lotion, such as: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, etc. When the collagenase inhibitor is added in an amount of 0.01-10%, the elasticity of the skin after the collagenase inhibitor is used is increased. When the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is less than 0.01%, the collagenase inhibitor cannot play a role in resisting aging; when the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is more than 10%, the content of the collagenase inhibitor is too high, the cost is too high, and the corresponding anti-aging effect is not obviously improved.
The penetration enhancer is added in an amount of 0.01-10% by mass of the skin-refreshing lotion, for example: 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, etc. When the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is less than 0.01%, the penetration enhancing effect is not significant. When the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is more than 10%, the penetration enhancer cannot further function.
In the present invention, the penetration enhancer includes one or a combination of two or more of propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, and chitosan. The invention preferably uses the combination of propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate, and the propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate have synergistic effect, so that the absorption effect of collagenase inhibitor can be more excellent.
When a combination of propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate is used as the penetration enhancer, the addition amount of propylene glycol is 0.01-5% and the addition amount of bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate is 0.01-5% based on the total mass of the skin-refreshing lotion. When the addition amount of the propylene glycol is 0.01-5% and the addition amount of the bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate is 0.01-5%, the absorption effect of the collagenase inhibitor can be effectively improved. For example: the amount of propylene glycol added is 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2.5%, 3.5%, 4.5%, etc., and the amount of bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate added is 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, 2.5%, 3.5%, 4.5%, etc.
In the invention, the skin refreshing lotion further comprises one or the combination of more than two of a humectant, a thickening agent, grease, a pH regulator, a preservative, an emulsifier, a skin conditioning agent, a solubilizer, a chelating agent, an aromatic, a soothing agent and an antioxidant. The skin refreshing lotion has mild formula composition, and can fully exert the efficacy of the collagenase inhibitor. Specifically, the method comprises the following steps:
the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20% of the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion. When the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%, the humectant can play a role in moisturizing and hydrating. In order to further exert the efficacy of the moisturizer, the amount of the moisturizer of the present invention added is preferably 1 to 18%, 2 to 16%, 3 to 14%, 4 to 13%, 5 to 12%, or the like. When the content of the humectant is less than 0.01%, the moisturizing effect is not obvious; when the content of the humectant is more than 20%, the refreshing lotion has a sticky feeling.
In the invention, the humectant comprises one or a combination of more than two of dipropylene glycol, butanediol, glycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, betaine and trehalose. The combination of a plurality of humectants is used, so that the skin refreshing lotion has excellent moisturizing performance.
Based on the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion, the addition amount of the grease is 1-10%. For example: the addition amount of the oil can be 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, 8%, 9% and the like. When the content of the oil is in the range of 1-10%, not only a hydrophobic film can be formed on the skin surface to prevent the invasion of external harmful substances, but also the evaporation of moisture on the skin surface can be inhibited to prevent the skin from drying and cracking. When the amount of the added oil is less than 1%, invasion of harmful substances cannot be effectively prevented; when the addition amount of the oil is more than 10%, the skin-refreshing lotion is too greasy, and the use feeling is reduced.
In the invention, the grease comprises one or the combination of more than two of cyclopentadimethyl siloxane, oleyl erucate, shea butter, ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclohexasiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, C20-24 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane, C13-14 isoparaffin and C12-15 alcohol benzoate.
The addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-5%, preferably 0.05-4.5%, more preferably 0.1-4%, and even more preferably 0.5-3% of the total mass of the skin-refreshing lotion. When the addition amount of the thickening agent is less than 0.02%, the skin-refreshing lotion has thinner texture; when the addition amount of the thickening agent is more than 5%, the skin-refreshing lotion is too thick and heavy, and the active ingredients of the skin-refreshing lotion are not easy to be absorbed by the skin.
In the invention, the thickening agent comprises one or the combination of more than two of polydimethylsiloxane/cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, xanthan gum, behenyl alcohol, polyacrylamide, PEG-100 stearate, carbomer, acryloyl dimethyl taurate/VP copolymer and hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer.
The addition amount of the emulsifier is 0.01-2%, preferably 0.1-1.8% based on the total mass of the skin-refreshing lotion, such as: 0.3%, 0.4%, 0.5%, 0.7%, 0.8%, 1%, 1.2%, 1.4%, 1.6%, etc. When the dosage of the emulsifier is less than 0.01%, the emulsification is insufficient, so that the system is unstable; when the dosage of the emulsifier is more than 2%, the irritation of the product can be increased, and meanwhile, certain influence can be caused on the stability of the product.
In the invention, the emulsifier comprises one or the combination of more than two of polysorbate-60, sorbitan isostearate, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, laureth-7 and isosteareth-20.
Since the emulsion system of the present invention is a non-water-in-oil system, when propylene glycol and bis-diethoxydiethylene glycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate are used as permeation promoters, their synergistic effect is not affected even if they are not added at the same time.
The addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5% based on the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion. The raw materials of the skin refreshing lotion can be more easily dissolved by adding the solubilizer. Preferably, the solubilizer is added in an amount of 0.05-0.2%, 0.1-0.2%, etc. In the present invention, the solubilizer includes one or two of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, polysorbate-20 and PPG-26-Butaneth-26.
In order to further improve the efficacy of the skin-refreshing lotion, the skin-refreshing lotion further comprises a skin conditioning agent. The generation of wrinkles can also be reduced by the addition of skin conditioning agents. The effective components in the skin conditioner can penetrate into the deep part of skin and be absorbed by skin, thereby improving the state of skin.
The addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0.01-5% of the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion. Preferably, the skin conditioning agent may be added in an amount of 0.1 to 4%, may be 0.5 to 3%, may be 0.8 to 2.5%, or the like. When the addition amount of the skin conditioner is less than 0.01%, the corresponding effect cannot be achieved; when the addition amount of the skin conditioner is more than 5%, the cost is too high.
In the present invention, the skin conditioner includes one or a combination of two or more of phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, ceramide 2, macroalgae extract, oat peptide, fucus extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, beta-glucan, chlorella fermentation product, hydrolyzed collagen, green algae extract, rhodophyta extract, brown algae extract, allantoin, ginkgo mistletoe leaf extract, lalang grass rhizome extract, ethanol, magnesium aspartate, clerodendranthus spicatus extract, lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract, Antarctic clump stalk algae extract, and cactus extract.
In addition, the skin refreshing lotion can also be added with a soothing agent. By adding the allergy relieving agent, the skin can be calmed, so that the skin has certain allergy relieving effect on the injury red swelling of the facial skin, and the skin can be helped to resist inflammation, relieve and promote cell repair.
The addition amount of the soothing agent is 0.01-5% of the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion, and can be 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3% and the like. When the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is less than 0.01 percent, the allergy relieving effect is not obvious; when the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is more than 5%, the further allergy relieving effect cannot be achieved, and the cost is too high.
The allergy relieving agent comprises one or more of bisabolol, ginger root extract, aloe vera extract, centella asiatica extract, evening primrose oil, andrographis paniculata leaf extract, and hamamelis virginiana flower water.
The hamamelis virginiana flower water in the soothing agent belongs to high-concentration plant original dew, has light herbal fragrance, and has the effects of controlling oil, conditioning, astringing, tightening pores, removing stasis and relieving swelling. Can be used for caring skin and soothing skin.
The addition amount of the antioxidant is 0.05-2% of the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion, such as: the antioxidant may be added in an amount of 0.1%, 0.3%, 0.5%, 0.8%, 1.0%, 1.2%, 1.5%, 1.8%, etc. The invention can remove free radicals, protect skin, reduce the damage of ultraviolet rays to skin, promote wound healing, prevent inflammation and prevent skin roughness and chap by adding a proper amount of antioxidant. The antioxidant can be one or more of vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, butylated hydroxytoluene, lycopene, etc.
The addition amount of the pH regulator is 0-1% of the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1%. The pH regulator comprises one or more of aminomethyl propanol, arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, and sodium hydroxide. The chelating agent may be EDTA-2Na and/or EDTA-4Na, etc.
In addition, the addition amount of the preservative in the skin refreshing lotion is 0.01-1.5% based on the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion; the addition amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5%. The preservative can comprise one or the combination of more than two of phenoxyethanol, methyl hydroxybenzoate, propyl hydroxybenzoate, benzoic acid and salts thereof. The aromatic may be a perfume, etc.
The skin refreshing lotion is in a gel shape, can play a role in resisting aging, and has a certain refreshing effect. The skin refreshing lotion can relieve the conditions of darkness, relaxation, no luster and the like of the skin. In addition, the skin refreshing lotion can play a role in moisturizing, tightening and activating the skin, and condition the skin to a good state.
<Third aspect of the invention>
In a third aspect of the invention, a preparation method of the skin-refreshing lotion is provided, and comprises the step of mixing the components of the skin-refreshing lotion.
Specifically, the preparation method of the skin refreshing lotion comprises the following steps:
1. adding thickener, oil, antioxidant, part of emulsifier, part of antiseptic, and part of skin conditioner into oil phase pan, stirring, and heating to 75-85 deg.C for dissolving completely;
2. adding water, humectant, partial penetration enhancer, optional chelating agent, optional pH regulator, and the rest emulsifier into an emulsifying pot, stirring, and heating to 75-85 deg.C for dissolving completely;
3. slowly pumping the oil phase substances in the oil phase pot into an emulsifying pot, stirring, homogenizing, vacuum emulsifying, and keeping the temperature of the emulsifying pot at 75-85 deg.C;
4. cooling to 40-50 deg.C, adding solubilizer, aromatic, collagenase inhibitor, soothing agent, the rest skin conditioner and the rest antiseptic, and stirring;
5. cooling to 30-40 ℃, discharging, and standing for 12-28 hours;
6. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Examples
Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but those skilled in the art will appreciate that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.
It should be noted that different batches of purchased extract will have a corresponding error, typically not exceeding 5%.
The ginseng extracts were purchased from: quzhou City exhibition-macro biotechnology Co., Ltd;
chamomile extracts were purchased from: quzhou City exhibition-macro Biotechnology Ltd.
Comparative examples 1 to 5
Ginseng radix extract is provided as collagenase inhibitor. Dissolving Ginseng radix extract in 5 groups of deionized water with different volumes to obtain 5 groups of test solutions, wherein the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions are 4000 μ g/mL, 3200 μ g/mL, 2400 μ g/mL, 1600 μ g/mL and 800 μ g/mL respectively. The logarithmic mass concentration of the ginseng extract is shown in table 1 below.
Comparative examples 6 to 10
Chamomilla recutita extract is provided as a collagenase inhibitor. Chamomile extracts were dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water in volumes corresponding to comparative examples 1-5 to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions being 4000. mu.g/mL, 3200. mu.g/mL, 2400. mu.g/mL, 1600. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, respectively. The logarithmic mass concentration of the chamomile extract is then as shown in table 1 below.
Examples 1 to 5
Ginseng extract and chamomile extract are provided as collagenase inhibitors. The collagenase inhibitor was obtained by mixing the ginseng extract and the chamomilla extract at a mass ratio of 3:1 (example 1), 2:1 (example 2), 1:1 (example 3), 1:2 (example 4), and 1:3 (example 5).
The collagenase inhibitor of example 1 was dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 2000. mu.g/mL, 1600. mu.g/mL, 1200. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, 400. mu.g/mL, respectively.
The collagenase inhibitors of example 2 were dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 2000. mu.g/mL, 1600. mu.g/mL, 1200. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, 400. mu.g/mL, respectively.
The collagenase inhibitors of example 3 were dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 2000. mu.g/mL, 1600. mu.g/mL, 1200. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, 400. mu.g/mL, respectively.
The collagenase inhibitors of example 4 were dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 2000. mu.g/mL, 1600. mu.g/mL, 1200. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, 400. mu.g/mL, respectively.
The collagenase inhibitors of example 5 were dissolved in 5 groups of deionized water to give 5 groups of test solutions, the concentrations of the 5 groups of test solutions were 2000. mu.g/mL, 1600. mu.g/mL, 1200. mu.g/mL, 800. mu.g/mL, 400. mu.g/mL, respectively.
Wherein, the contents (% by mass) of the ginseng extract and the chamomile extract in the collagenase inhibitor are shown in table 1 below, and the logarithmic mass concentration of the collagenase inhibitor is shown in table 3 below.
TABLE 1
Collagenase activity inhibition assay
Folin phenol reagent under alkaline conditionThe protein can be reduced to blue by phenolic compounds (a mixture of molybdenum blue and tungsten blue), and the protein and the hydrolysate thereof can react due to the amino acid containing phenolic groups (such as tyrosine, tryptophan and the like) in the protein molecule, so that the protease activity can be determined by utilizing the principle. Generally, casein is used as a substrate, the casein is hydrolyzed by collagenase under certain pH value and temperature conditions, the enzymolysis reaction is stopped by trichloroacetic acid after a period of time, the supernatant is taken after the casein precipitate is removed by centrifugation or filtration, and Na is used2CO3Alkalizing, adding Folin phenol reagent, developing, wherein the shade of blue is proportional to the amount of tyrosine in the filtrate, and measuring with spectrophotometer at 650nm wavelength to calculate the activity of collagenase.
In the test, all collagenases used were matrix collagenase (MMP-1), purchased from: shanghai ze leaf Biotech Co., Ltd.
Collagenase activity is measured as the activity of collagenase that catalyzes the production of tyrosine by casein. The method specifically comprises the following steps:
adding 0.25mL of deionized water and 0.25mL (32U/mL) of collagenase into 1 test tube respectively, then adding 0.5mL (1.0% w/v) of a substrate casein solution, immediately mixing the mixture, keeping the temperature in a water bath at 37 ℃ for 10min, then adding 1mL (6.5% w/v) of a trichloroacetic acid solution, mixing the mixture uniformly, standing the mixture for 10min, centrifuging the mixture for 5min at 10000rpm, taking 0.5mL of a supernatant sample in the test tube, adding 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) of a sodium bicarbonate test solution into another test tube respectively, and shaking the test tube uniformly. After 10 minutes, respectively adding 0.5ml of forinophenol test solution (diluted by 2 times by 1mol/L acid concentration of the forinophenol test solution), immediately mixing uniformly, and standing for 30 minutes at room temperature; the supernatant 1 of the experimental group was obtained and the absorbance at a wavelength of 650nm was measured and recorded as A1.
② taking another 1 test tube, respectively adding 0.25mL of deionized water and 0.25mL (32U/mL) of collagenase, then adding 1mL (6.5%, w/v) of trichloroacetic acid solution and immediately mixing, preserving heat in 37 ℃ water bath for 10min, then adding 0.5mL (1.0%, w/v) of substrate casein solution and mixing, standing for 10min, centrifuging at 10000rpm for 5min, taking 0.5mL of supernatant sample in the test tube, respectively adding 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) of sodium bicarbonate test solution into another test tube, and shaking uniformly. After 10 minutes, respectively adding 0.5ml of forinophenol test solution (diluted by 2 times by 1mol/L acid concentration of the forinophenol test solution), immediately mixing uniformly, and standing for 30 minutes at room temperature; control supernatant 2 was obtained and the absorbance measured at 650nm and recorded as A2.
③ respectively adding 0.25mL (32U/mL) of collagenase into 35 test tubes, then respectively adding 0.25mL (1.0%, w/v) of the test solution of the comparative examples 1-10 and the examples 1-5, and mixing uniformly, then adding 0.5mL (1.0%, w/v) of the casein solution of the substrate and immediately mixing uniformly, after preserving heat in a water bath at 37 ℃ for 10min, then adding 1mL (6.5%, w/v) of trichloroacetic acid solution and mixing uniformly, standing for 10min, centrifuging at 10000rpm for 5min, respectively taking 0.5mL of the supernatant sample in 35 test tubes, respectively adding 0.5mL of sodium bicarbonate test solution into another 35 test tubes, respectively adding 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) of sodium bicarbonate test solution, and shaking uniformly. After 10 minutes, respectively adding 0.5ml of forinophenol test solution (diluted by 2 times by 1mol/L acid concentration of the forinophenol test solution), immediately mixing uniformly, and standing for 30 minutes at room temperature; 35 groups of experimental group supernatants 3 were obtained and absorbance was measured at 650nm and recorded as A3.
And fourthly, respectively adding 0.25mL (32U/mL) of collagenase into 35 test tubes, then respectively adding 0.25mL of the test solution of the comparative examples 1-10 and the examples 1-5, uniformly mixing, then adding 1mL (6.5%, w/v) of trichloroacetic acid solution, immediately uniformly mixing, keeping the temperature in a water bath at 37 ℃ for 10min, then adding 0.5mL (1.0%, w/v) of casein solution as a substrate, uniformly mixing, standing for 10min, centrifuging at 10000rpm for 5min, respectively taking 0.5mL of supernatant samples in the 35 test tubes, respectively adding 0.5mL (mass concentration: 10%) of sodium bicarbonate test solution into the other 35 test tubes, and uniformly shaking. After 10 minutes, respectively adding 0.5ml of forinophenol test solution (diluted by 2 times by 1mol/L acid concentration of the forinophenol test solution), immediately mixing uniformly, and standing for 30 minutes at room temperature; 35 control group supernatant 4 was obtained and absorbance was measured at 650nm and recorded as A4.
The inhibition rate is [1- (A3-A4)/(A1-A2) ] x 100%
In the formula: a1 is the absorbance of supernatant 1 of experimental group without adding collagenase inhibitor;
a2 is the absorbance of control supernatant 2 without collagenase inhibitor;
a3 is the absorbance of supernatant 3 of experimental group containing collagenase inhibitor;
a4 is the absorbance of control supernatant 4 containing collagenase inhibitor.
The respective collagenase activity inhibition rates of the ginseng extract (comparative examples 1 to 5) and the chamomile extract (comparative examples 6 to 10) were calculated. Combining the logarithmic mass concentration-collagenase activity inhibition ratio relationship chart (figure 1 and figure 2), and calculating the corresponding mass concentration (IC) when the inhibition ratio of the ginseng extract is 50%50A) Mass concentration (IC) corresponding to 50% inhibition ratio of chamomile extract50B) The results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 2
The collagenase inhibitors of examples 1-5 were then tested for collagenase inhibition. And calculating the mass concentration (IC) of Ginseng radix extract when the combined effect of Ginseng radix extract and flos Matricariae Chamomillae extract generates equivalent inhibition rate (50%) by combining with the relation graph of logarithmic mass concentration-collagenase inhibition rate (figure 3)50a) The mass concentration of the chamomile extract ((IC) when the combined action of the ginseng extract and the chamomile extract produces an equivalent inhibition rate (50%) ((IC)50b) The results are shown in Table 3.
The effect of the combined effect of ginseng extract and chamomile extract can be evaluated by the interaction coefficient γ, and the specific results are shown in table 3.
γ＝IC50a/IC50A+IC50b/IC50B
Wherein, IC50ARepresents the mass concentration corresponding to the inhibition rate of the ginseng extract of 50%;
IC50Brepresents the mass concentration corresponding to the inhibition rate of the chamomile extract of 50%;
IC50athe mass concentration of the ginseng extract is shown when the compound action of the ginseng extract and the chamomile extract generates an equivalent inhibition rate (50%);
IC50bshows the quality of the chamomile extract when the compound action of the ginseng extract and the chamomile extract generates an equivalent inhibition rate (50 percent)And (4) concentration.
Wherein γ ═ 1, indicates that the ginseng extract and the chamomile extract exhibit a simple additive effect; gamma is less than 1, the ginseng extract and the chamomile extract show a synergistic effect, and the smaller the gamma value is, the stronger the synergistic effect is; gamma is more than 1, the ginseng extract and the chamomile extract show antagonistic effect, and the larger the gamma value is, the larger the antagonistic effect is.
TABLE 3
Note: in table 3, example 1 and example 5 are embodied as reference example 1 and reference example 5 in the present invention, which can be compared with examples 2 to 4.
As can be seen from table 3, the collagenase inhibitor of the present invention has an interaction coefficient of less than 1, and the interaction coefficient value thereof may be 0.9 or less, and even 0.8 or less, so that the ginseng extract and the chamomile extract may exhibit excellent synergistic effects.
Application examples 1 to 5
The skin-refreshing lotion is prepared according to the content (mass percentage) of each component in the skin-refreshing lotion formula of the application examples 1-5 in the following table 4 and according to the following production process steps. The production process comprises the following steps:
1. adding phase A into oil phase pan, stirring and heating to 80-85 deg.C for dissolving completely;
2. adding phase B into an emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃ to fully dissolve;
3. slowly pumping the oil phase substances in the oil phase pot into an emulsifying pot, stirring, homogenizing, vacuum emulsifying, and keeping the temperature of the emulsifying pot at 80-85 deg.C;
4. cooling to 42 deg.C, adding phase C and phase D, and stirring;
5. cooling to 37 ℃, discharging, and standing for 24 hours;
6. and (5) after the inspection is qualified, subpackaging, packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Note: the A, B, C, D phases in the process are respectively phase A: hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicone/cetearyldimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, tocopherol acetate, polysorbate-60, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, methylparaben, ceramide 2
Phase B: water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, sorbitan isostearate;
and C phase: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, essence;
phase D: chamomile extract, ginseng extract, clitocybe antarctica extract, hamamelis virginiana water, lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract, clerodendranthus spicatus extract, ethanol, beta-glucan, phenoxyethanol, bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate.
Wherein, polydimethylsiloxane/cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer are thickening agents;
hydrogenated polyisobutene and cyclopentadecyl dimethyl siloxane are grease; tocopheryl acetate is an antioxidant;
polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate are used as emulsifiers;
butanediol, glycerol, sodium hyaluronate and betaine are used as moisturizers;
the chamomile extract and the ginseng extract are whitening cosmetic additives;
propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate are permeation enhancers;
hamamelis virginiana flower water is a soothing sensitizer; PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil is a solubilizer;
methyl hydroxybenzoate and phenoxyethanol are antiseptic; the essence is an aromatic.
TABLE 4
Application of comparative examples 1 to 8
Skin-refreshing lotion was prepared according to the contents (mass percentages) of the components in the skin-refreshing lotion formulations of comparative application examples 1 to 8 in the following table 5 in the same manner as in application examples 1 to 5.
TABLE 5
Skin elasticity test
Method for testing skin elasticity: the test principle is based on the principle of suction and stretching, where a negative pressure is generated on the skin surface to be tested to suck the skin into a specific test probe, and the depth of the skin sucked into the test probe is measured by a non-contact optical test system. The test probe includes a transmitter and receiver of light, the ratio of which (the ratio of transmitted light to received light) is proportional to the depth of skin being absorbed, thus obtaining a time-dependent curve of the length of skin stretched.
Measuring the skin elasticity of the subject by using a probe PVM600 and a skin elasticity measuring instrument MPA580 of German CK company, selecting a parameter R2 as a comparison index (R2: the ratio of the skin rebound quantity without negative pressure to the maximum stretching quantity with negative pressure is closer to 1, the skin elasticity is better) and measuring for 3 times in total, and taking an average value; the improvement of the skin elasticity of the tested area by the product was evaluated by measuring the change in the skin elasticity value R2 before and after use of the product.
The number of subjects was 33, the test period was 8 weeks, and the skin-refreshing lotions according to application examples 1 to 5 and the skin-refreshing lotions according to comparative examples 1 to 8 were selected as test samples, and 13 different areas were divided on the forearm of the subject, and the skin-refreshing lotions according to application examples 1 to 5 and the skin-refreshing lotions according to comparative examples 1 to 8 were applied to the different areas on the inner side of the forearm every morning and evening in an amount of about 2mg/cm2And the smearing position of each test sample is kept unchanged in the test period, and then the test is respectively determinedThe skin elasticity of the test area at the previous and 8 weeks of use, and thus the rate of change of the skin elasticity, is characterized, and the results of the specific rate of change of elasticity (averaged) are shown in table 6 and fig. 5.
TABLE 6
As can be seen from table 6 and fig. 5, the application examples 1 to 5 of the present application have a large rate of change in skin elasticity, i.e., enhanced skin elasticity, and thus, the use of ginseng extract and chamomile extract is effective in improving skin aging.
In the application comparative examples 1 to 8 of the present application, the change rate of skin elasticity is small, and thus, the anti-aging effect is relatively poor in the application comparative examples 1 to 8.
The above examples of the present invention are merely examples for clearly illustrating the present invention and are not intended to limit the embodiments of the present invention. Other variations and modifications will be apparent to persons skilled in the art in light of the above description. And are neither required nor exhaustive of all embodiments. Any modification, equivalent replacement, and improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the claims of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. A skin refreshing lotion is characterized by comprising a collagenase inhibitor and a penetration enhancer; the addition amount of the collagenase inhibitor is 0.01-10% of the total mass of the skin refreshing lotion; the addition amount of the penetration enhancer is 0.01-10%;
the collagenase inhibitor comprises a ginseng extract and a chamomile extract, and the addition amount of the ginseng extract is 30-70% and the addition amount of the chamomile extract is 30-70% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor.
2. A refreshing lotion according to claim 1, characterized in that the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the chamomile extract is 1: 0.43-2.2, preferably 1: 0.44-2.18, more preferably 1: 0.45-2.16, further preferably 1: 0.46-2.14, further preferably 1: 0.47-2.12, and further preferably 1: 0.48-2.1.
3. A skin-refreshing lotion according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the penetration enhancer comprises one or a combination of two or more of propylene glycol, bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate and chitosan.
4. The skin-refreshing lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the skin-refreshing lotion further comprises one or more of a combination of a humectant, a thickener, a grease, a pH regulator, a preservative, an emulsifier, a skin conditioner, a solubilizer, a chelating agent, a fragrance, a soothing agent and an antioxidant;
preferably, the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%; the addition amount of the thickening agent is 0.02-5%; the addition amount of the grease is 1-10%; the addition amount of the pH regulator is 0-1%; the addition amount of the preservative is 0.01-1.5%; the addition amount of the emulsifier is 0.01-2%; the addition amount of the skin conditioner is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the solubilizer is 0.01-0.5%; the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1%; the adding amount of the aromatic is 0.005-0.5%; the addition amount of the allergy relieving agent is 0.01-5%; the addition amount of the antioxidant is 0.05-2%.
5. The skin refreshing lotion according to claim 4, wherein the skin conditioning agent comprises one or a combination of two or more of Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract, ceramide 2, Macrocystis japonica extract, avenin, Fucus vesiculosus extract, hydrolyzed wheat protein, beta-glucan, chlorella fermentation product, hydrolyzed collagen, Chlorella extract, Rhodophyta extract, Brown algae extract, allantoin, Viscum album leaf extract, Imperata rhizome extract, ethanol, magnesium aspartate, Clerodendrum tea extract, Lactobacillus/Glycine fermentation product extract, Pleurotus Antarctica extract, and Opuntia ficus extract.
6. The skin refreshing lotion according to claim 4 or 5, wherein the soothing agent comprises one or more of bisabolol, ginger root extract, aloe vera extract, centella asiatica extract, evening primrose oil, andrographis paniculata leaf extract, and hamamelis virginiana flower water.
7. A collagenase inhibitor comprising: the collagenase inhibitor comprises a ginseng extract and a chamomile extract, wherein the ginseng extract is added in an amount of 30-70% and the chamomile extract is added in an amount of 30-70% based on the total mass of the collagenase inhibitor.
8. The collagenase inhibitor according to claim 7, wherein the mass ratio of the ginseng extract to the chamomile extract is 1:0.43 to 2.2, preferably 1:0.44 to 2.18, more preferably 1:0.45 to 2.16, further preferably 1:0.46 to 2.14, further preferably 1:0.47 to 2.12, and further preferably 1:0.48 to 2.1.
9. Collagenase inhibitor according to claim 7 or 8, characterised in that the collagenase is a interstitial collagenase.
10. A method for preparing a skin refreshing lotion according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the skin refreshing lotion.
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