CN115177565B - Whitening and skin brightening composition and application thereof in cosmetics - Google Patents

Whitening and skin brightening composition and application thereof in cosmetics Download PDF

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CN115177565B
CN115177565B CN202210895898.8A CN202210895898A CN115177565B CN 115177565 B CN115177565 B CN 115177565B CN 202210895898 A CN202210895898 A CN 202210895898A CN 115177565 B CN115177565 B CN 115177565B
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whitening
composition
peg
extract
skin
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CN115177565A (en
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许锐林
李楚忠
陈庆生
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Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetic Science and Technology Co Ltd
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Guangzhou Huanya Cosmetic Science and Technology Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a whitening and skin brightening composition and application thereof in cosmetics; according to the invention, three components of the black willow bark extract, the palm leaf extract and the inula flower extract with corresponding effects are screened from a plurality of plant components by researching the skin blackening principle and the whitening action mechanism, and scientific and reasonable compounding proportion, synergy and complementation are obtained through multiple research experiments, so that three key whitening paths of resisting sun oxidative damage, inhibiting tyrosinase activity and transfer and reducing pigmentation are realized, the inhibiting effect is exerted on each aspect of skin blackening, and the purposes of comprehensively, efficiently and safely whitening are realized. The composition is mild and has no stimulation, the tyrosinase inhibition rate and the hydroxyl radical removal rate are respectively above 85% and 82%, and the prepared whitening cream has obvious pigment reduction effect and good whitening and skin brightening effects; can be further prepared into cosmetics such as cosmetic water, lotion, cream, facial mask, spray, essence, facial cleanser, sunscreen cream, etc.

Description

Whitening and skin brightening composition and application thereof in cosmetics
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a whitening and skin brightening composition and application thereof in cosmetics.
Background
With the age, the skin inevitably ages, and has problems of dryness, relaxation, darkness and the like, and external factors such as sunlight irradiation, environmental pollution and the like can aggravate the problems. With the increase of people's consumption level and the enhancement of safety and health consciousness, effective cosmetics, such as cosmetics for whitening, anti-aging, repairing and the like, are increasingly sought after. In the increasingly competitive functional cosmetic market, it is desirable to take up a place to think about how to develop cosmetics that are more powerful, comprehensive and gentle. The traditional whitening products mostly realize whitening by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, but have the advantages of single way, easy repetition and long action time, and the risk of skin irritation when the dosage of the conventional whitening agent is large. In order to achieve the real whitening, it is not enough to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, and it is also considered to avoid oxidative damage caused by sunlight irradiation, eliminate the generated pigment, etc., and only prevention and repair are performed on each way causing skin blackening, the root whitening can be achieved. Therefore, how to develop a product with better, more comprehensive and mild whitening effect is a worth exploring.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a mild and efficient whitening and skin brightening composition which is different from traditional whitening, and achieves comprehensive, efficient and mild whitening effects through carefully selecting and compounding natural plant source extracts from multiple ways of resisting photodamage, inhibiting tyrosinase activity and transfer and reducing pigmentation.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:
in a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a composition comprising the following ingredients: black willow bark extract, palm leaf extract and inula flower extract.
The black willow bark extract is prepared from black willow, contains rich tannins and salicylic acid, belongs to natural salicylic acid, has the same effect as other synthetic acids, and does not generate any side effect, such as: irritation. Has effects of enhancing cell activity, improving cell regeneration, peeling and renewing skin cutin, and reducing skin pigmentation, thereby realizing brightening and whitening effects.
The palmate tree extract is rich in xylose and galactose oligosaccharides in the palmate red alga, and can limit melanin generation by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and the quantity of synthesized melanin; reducing synthesis of protein-anchored complexes essential for melanosomes transport to keratinocytes; inhibit synthesis of stem cell factor, control photoinduced pigmentation, and make skin brighter and finer.
The extract of the inula flower is rich in jasmine flower flavonoids, protects the activity of catalase, helps to recover the content of glutathione in cells, can strengthen the function of endogenous anti-free radical systems of skin, resists photodamage, effectively protects proteins and DNA, reduces inflammation, reduces the quantity of synthesized melanin, and realizes the effects of radically whitening and brightening skin.
In some embodiments of the present invention, the composition comprises, in mass percent: 1-20% of black willow bark extract, 0.1-10% of palmleaf tree extract and 0.1-10% of inula flower extract.
In some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the composition comprises, in mass percent: 1-10% of black willow bark extract, 1-10% of palm leaf extract and 1-10% of inula flower extract.
In some more preferred embodiments of the present invention, the composition comprises, in mass percent: 5-10% of black willow bark extract, 1-5% of palm leaf extract and 1-5% of inula flower extract.
In some embodiments of the present invention, the method for preparing the whitening and skin brightening composition comprises: mixing the black willow bark extract, the palm leaf extract and the plain flower extract uniformly to obtain the composition.
In a second aspect of the invention there is provided the use of a composition according to the first aspect of the invention in the manufacture of a product.
In some embodiments of the invention, the product functions as at least one of (1) to (6):
(1) Whitening;
(2) Brightening skin color;
(3) Inhibiting tyrosinase activity and metastasis;
(4) Reduce pigmentation;
(5) Resist sun light oxidation damage;
(6) The scavenging rate of the hydroxyl free radicals is improved.
In some embodiments of the invention, the product is a cosmetic.
In some embodiments of the invention, the cosmetic product includes, but is not limited to, lotions, emulsions, creams, masks, sprays, essences, facial washes.
In a third aspect of the invention there is provided a product comprising a composition according to the first aspect of the invention.
In some embodiments of the invention, the composition is present in the product in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by mass.
In some preferred embodiments of the invention, the composition is present in the product in an amount of 0.5 to 5% by mass.
In some embodiments of the invention, an adjunct or carrier is also included in the product.
In some embodiments of the invention, the adjunct comprises at least one of a humectant, an emulsifier, an emollient, a preservative, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a thickener, a chelating agent, a solubilizer, a pH adjuster.
In some embodiments of the invention, the moisturizer comprises: at least one of glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, sodium hyaluronate, and 1, 2-hexanediol.
In some embodiments of the invention, the emulsifier comprises: PEG-100 stearate, glycerol stearate, PEG-40 stearate, polysorbate-60, methyl glucose sesquistearate, polysorbate-20, C20-22 alcohol phosphate, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, cetostearyl alcohol polyether-12, steareth-2, steareth-21, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 polymethylsiloxane, lauryl PEG-9 dimethicone ethyl dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, dimethicone PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, cetyl stearyl alcohol oliveate, sorbitan oliveate, PEG-30 dimer hydroxy stearate, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, polyglyceryl-2 dimer hydroxy stearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, cetyl stearyl glucoside, sodium stearyl phosphate, potassium glutamate.
In some embodiments of the invention, the emollient comprises: jojoba seed oil, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclopentadimethicone, shea butter, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, isohexadecane, octylpolymethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, dioctyl carbonate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethyl hexanoate), coconut oil, squalane, olive fruit oil, white pool seed oil, propyl heptanoate, tri (ethyl hexanoate), caprylic/capric triglyceride, isononyl isononanoate.
In some embodiments of the invention, the preservative comprises: at least one of methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate.
In some embodiments of the invention, the antioxidant comprises: at least one of hydroxyacetophenone and tocopheryl acetate.
In some embodiments of the invention, the thickener comprises: at least one of distearyl dimethyl ammonium hectorite, beeswax, ozokerite, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, behenic acid, hectorite, xanthan gum, acacia gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer.
In some embodiments of the invention, the chelating agent comprises: disodium EDTA.
In some embodiments of the invention, the solubilizing agent comprises: at least one of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-butanol polyether-26.
In some embodiments of the invention, the pH adjuster comprises: at least one of aminomethylpropanol, arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, and triethanolamine.
The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:
according to the invention, three components of reasonable black willow bark extract, palm leaf extract and inula flower extract with corresponding effects are screened from a plurality of plant components by researching the skin blackening principle and the whitening action mechanism, and scientific and reasonable compounding proportion, synergy and complementation are obtained through multiple research experiments, so that three key whitening paths of resisting sun oxidative damage, inhibiting tyrosinase activity and transfer and reducing pigmentation are realized, the inhibition effect is exerted on each aspect of skin blackening, and the purposes of comprehensively, efficiently and safely whitening are realized. The composition is mild and has no stimulation, the tyrosinase inhibition rate and the hydroxyl radical removal rate are respectively above 85% and 82%, and the prepared whitening cream has obvious pigment reduction effect and good whitening and skin brightening effects; can be further prepared into cosmetics such as cosmetic water, lotion, cream, facial mask, spray, essence, facial cleanser, sunscreen cream, etc.
Detailed Description
The conception and the technical effects produced by the present invention will be clearly and completely described in conjunction with the embodiments below to fully understand the objects, features and effects of the present invention. It is apparent that the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments, and that other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without inventive effort are within the scope of the present invention based on the embodiments of the present invention.
The raw materials, reagents or apparatus used in the following examples, in which the black willow bark extract is derived from Active peptides, LLC, are available from conventional commercial sources, unless otherwise specified, or may be obtained by a known method; the palmleaf tree extract is from Guangzhou nonia biosciences limited company; the extract of the square flowers is derived from SILAB S.A., but is not limited to the present invention, and the extract of the square flowers such as black willow bark and palm She Shuji may be obtained by purchasing the extract product from a normal raw material supplier, or purchasing the raw material by a conventional commercial route, and then subjecting the raw material to water extraction or alcohol extraction.
Example 1
The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 8% of black willow bark extract, 3% of palm leaf extract, 3% of inula flower extract and the balance of deionized water.
Example 2
The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of black willow bark extract, 5% of palm leaf extract, 5% of inula flower extract and the balance of deionized water.
Example 3
The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10% of black willow bark extract, 1% of palm leaf extract, 1% of inula flower extract and the balance of deionized water.
Example 4
The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of black willow bark extract, 5% of palm leaf extract, 1% of inula flower extract and the balance of deionized water.
Example 5
The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of black willow bark extract, 1% of palm leaf extract, 5% of inula flower extract and the balance of deionized water.
Comparative example 1
And setting a combination form of which the composition proportion is not in a protection range to verify the rationality of the composition proportion. The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.5% of black willow bark extract, 12% of palm leaf extract, 12% of plain flower extract and the balance of deionized water.
Comparative example 2
And setting a combination form of which the composition proportion is not in a protection range to verify the rationality of the composition proportion. The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: the black willow bark extract is 25%, the palm leaf extract is 0.05%, the plain flower extract is 0.05%, and the balance is deionized water.
Comparative example 3
The composition is provided in a combination form that removes a plant component of the composition to verify the rationality of the combination of the composition. The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 3% of palmleaf tree extract, 3% of plain flower extract and the balance of deionized water.
Comparative example 4
The composition is provided in a combination form that removes a plant component of the composition to verify the rationality of the combination of the composition. The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 8% of black willow bark extract, 3% of extract of inula flower and the balance of deionized water.
Comparative example 5
The composition is provided in a combination form that removes a plant component of the composition to verify the rationality of the combination of the composition. The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 8% of black willow bark extract, 3% of palm leaf extract and the balance of deionized water.
Comparative example 6
The composition is provided in a form that retains certain plant components of the composition to verify the rationality of the composition combination. The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: the black willow bark extract is 8%, and the balance is deionized water.
Comparative example 7
The composition is provided in a form that retains certain plant components of the composition to verify the rationality of the composition combination. The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 3% of palm leaf tree extract and the balance of deionized water.
Comparative example 8
The composition is provided in a form that retains certain plant components of the composition to verify the rationality of the composition combination. The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 3% of plain flower extract and the balance of deionized water.
Comparative example 9
The rationality of the composition was verified by replacing any one of the plant components in the composition with the usual whitening plant component (licorice root extract). The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 8% of licorice root extract, 3% of palm leaf tree extract, 3% of plain flower extract and the balance of deionized water.
Comparative example 10
The rationality of the composition was verified by replacing any one of the plant components in the composition with the usual whitening plant component (licorice root extract). The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 8% of black willow bark extract, 3% of licorice root extract, 3% of plain flower extract and the balance of deionized water.
Comparative example 11
The rationality of the composition was verified by replacing any one of the plant components in the composition with the usual whitening plant component (licorice root extract). The composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 8% of black willow bark extract, 3% of palm leaf extract, 3% of licorice root extract and the balance of deionized water.
Example 6
The composition of example 1 was used to prepare a whitening lotion, and the formulation is shown in table 1.
TABLE 1
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Sequentially adding the phase A raw materials into a stirring pot, heating to 60 ℃, homogenizing, stirring and dissolving uniformly;
(2) Heating the raw material of the phase B to 60 ℃ to dissolve and transparent, adding the raw material into a stirring pot to disperse uniformly, and cooling to 40 ℃;
(3) Adding the C-phase raw material into a stirring pot, stirring and dispersing uniformly;
(4) And after uniformly dispersing the D-phase raw materials, adding the D-phase raw materials into a stirring pot, uniformly dispersing, and cooling to below 37 ℃ to obtain the whitening toning lotion.
Example 7
The composition of example 1 was used to prepare a whitening mask, and the formulation is shown in table 2.
TABLE 2
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Sequentially adding the phase A raw materials into a stirring pot, heating to 60 ℃, homogenizing, stirring and dissolving uniformly;
(2) Adding the B-phase raw material into a stirring pot, and homogenizing and dispersing uniformly;
(3) Heating the C-phase raw material to 60 ℃ to dissolve and transparent, adding the C-phase raw material into a stirring pot to disperse uniformly, and cooling to 40 ℃;
(3) Adding the D-phase raw material into a stirring pot, stirring and dispersing uniformly;
(4) And after uniformly dispersing the E-phase raw material, adding the E-phase raw material into a stirring pot, uniformly dispersing, and cooling to below 37 ℃ to obtain the whitening mask.
Example 8
The composition of example 1 was used to prepare a whitening emulsion, and the formulation is shown in table 3.
TABLE 3 Table 3
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Sequentially adding the phase A raw materials into an emulsifying pot, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing, stirring and dissolving uniformly;
(2) Sequentially adding the phase B raw materials into an oil phase pot, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring and dispersing uniformly;
(3) Adding the B-phase raw material into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing and emulsifying, uniformly stirring, and cooling to 60 ℃;
(4) Adding the C-phase raw material into an emulsifying pot, and homogenizing and dispersing uniformly;
(5) Heating the D phase raw material to 60 ℃ to dissolve and transparent, adding the D phase raw material into an emulsifying pot to disperse uniformly, and cooling to 40 ℃;
(6) And after uniformly dispersing the E phase raw material, adding the E phase raw material into a stirring pot, uniformly dispersing, and cooling to below 37 ℃ to obtain the whitening emulsion.
Example 9
The composition of example 1 was used to prepare a whitening cream, and the formulation is shown in table 4.
TABLE 4 Table 4
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) Sequentially adding the phase A raw materials into an emulsifying pot, heating to 80 ℃, homogenizing, stirring and dissolving uniformly;
(2) Sequentially adding the phase B raw materials into an oil phase pot, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring and dispersing uniformly;
(3) Adding the B-phase raw material into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing and emulsifying, uniformly stirring, and cooling to 60 ℃;
(4) Adding the C-phase raw material into an emulsifying pot, and homogenizing and dispersing uniformly;
(5) Heating the D phase raw material to 60 ℃ to dissolve and transparent, adding the D phase raw material into an emulsifying pot to disperse uniformly, and cooling to 40 ℃;
(6) And after uniformly dispersing the E-phase raw material, adding the E-phase raw material into a stirring pot, uniformly dispersing, and cooling to below 37 ℃ to obtain the whitening cream.
Comparative example 12
A blank control cream without the whitening composition of example 1 was prepared, and the proportions of the remaining ingredients and the preparation method were kept consistent with example 9.
Test example 1
Erythrocyte hemolysis assay:
the ocular irritation effect of the samples was evaluated by erythrocyte hemolysis experiments. Taking 500 mu L of 2% erythrocyte suspension and 500 mu L of sample solution with different concentrations (diluted by PBS), mixing physiological saline and 2% erythrocyte suspension in equal volume as a negative group, mixing 1% SDS solution and 2% erythrocyte suspension in equal volume as a positive group, setting three groups in parallel, placing the three groups in a biochemical incubator at 37 ℃ for static culture for 3 hours, taking 10 mu L of supernatant and 90 mu L of physiological saline, and measuring absorbance values at 410, 540 and 575nm in a 96-well plate.
Hemolysis rate= (a Sample set 410nm -A Negative control group 410nm )/(A Positive control group 410nm -A Negative control group 410nm )×100%
Protein Denaturation Index (DI) = (a) Sample group 575nm -A Sample group 540nm )/(A Positive control group 575nm -A Positive control group 540nm )×100%
Determining regression equation according to hemolysis rate drawing, and calculating test sample primerSample mass concentration HC at 50% hemolysis of erythrocyte 50 (mg/L) and DI value at 1% of the sample volume fraction. The L/D value of the sample was calculated from the HC50 value and DI value: l/d=hc 50 /DI. The degree of irritation of the test samples was graded according to the erythrocyte hemolysis assay grading standard of the European alternative validation center (ECVAM). As shown in table 5.
TABLE 5
L/D Grading
﹥100 No irritation
10﹤L/D≤100 Microstimulation
1﹤L/D≤10 Mild irritation
0.1﹤L/D≤1 Moderate irritation
L/D≤0.1 Severe irritation
The results of the erythrocyte hemolysis experiments of the whitening and skin lightening compositions prepared in examples 1 to 5 and the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 11 are shown in Table 6.
TABLE 6
Sample name HC 50 (mg/L) DI(%) L/D Evaluation
Example 1 33901.4 78.45 432.14 No irritation
Example 2 28799.7 76.83 374.85 No irritation
Example 3 18579.0 80.61 230.48 No irritation
Example 4 22662.4 73.18 309.68 No irritation
Example 5 15626.9 83.45 187.26 No irritation
Comparative example 1 21091.7 89.47 235.74 No irritation
Comparative example 2 6168.3 94.36 65.37 Microstimulation
Comparative example 3 8713.0 88.26 98.72 Microstimulation
Comparative example 4 7230.0 85.74 84.32 Microstimulation
Comparative example 5 8449.0 80.96 104.36 No irritation
Comparative example 6 12333.9 78.64 156.84 No irritation
Comparative example 7 5751.0 79.16 72.65 Microstimulation
Comparative example 8 7939.2 87.10 91.15 Microstimulation
Comparative example 9 1290.9 82.38 15.67 Microstimulation
Comparative example 10 5513.2 92.69 59.48 Microstimulation
Comparative example 11 3444.4 93.65 36.78 Microstimulation
As can be seen from the results of the erythrocyte hemolysis experiments in Table 6, the skin whitening and brightening compositions prepared in examples 1 to 5 of the present invention were all non-irritating in irritation scale, while the compositions other than 1, 5 and 6 were non-irritating in comparative examples, and were slightly irritating. Compared with other composition forms, the whitening and skin-brightening composition provided by the invention has the characteristics of mildness and no stimulation.
Test example 2
Inhibition tyrosinase activity assay:
according to the sample adding of Table 7, taking L-tyrosine as a reaction substrate, setting four groups of sample solutions shown in Table 7, respectively adding PBS buffer solution, 0.5 g/L-tyrosine solution and samples with different proportions, respectively setting 3 parallel samples for each sample, placing in a 37 ℃ water bath for 10min, adding 100U/mL tyrosinase solution, uniformly mixing, placing in a 37 ℃ water bath for reaction for 10min, rapidly transferring into a cuvette, and measuring absorbance value A at 475nm 1 、A 2 、A 3 、A 4 . The inhibition of tyrosinase activity by the samples was calculated according to the following formula.
In vitro tyrosinase activity inhibition ratio= (1- (a) 4 -A 3 )/(A 2 -A 1 ))*100%。
TABLE 7
Blank control/mL blank/mL Sample control/mL sample/mL
Sample of -- -- 0.8 0.8
PBS(pH=6.8) 1.8 1.4 1.0 0.6
L-tyrosine 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8
Tyrosinase enzyme -- 0.4 -- 0.4
Total amount of 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.6
The whitening and skin-brightening compositions of examples 1 to 5 and the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 11 were used to determine the inhibition ratio of tyrosinase activity, and the results are shown in Table 8.
TABLE 8
Sample of Tyrosinase inhibition/%
Example 1 94.45
Example 2 90.51
Example 3 92.15
Example 4 88.26
Example 5 85.69
Comparative example 1 72.56
Comparative example 2 79.32
Comparative example 3 67.52
Comparative example 4 54.96
Comparative example 5 63.04
Comparative example 6 43.42
Comparative example 7 53.15
Comparative example 8 62.85
Comparative example 9 70.59
Comparative example 10 76.37
Comparative example 11 80.46
As can be seen from the data in Table 8, the tyrosinase inhibition rate of the whitening and skin-brightening compositions of examples 1 to 5 was above 85%, which indicates that the tyrosinase inhibition rate was very high, whereas the composition of comparative examples, whether the composition was outside the content range of the present invention (comparative examples 1 and 2), or the composition did not contain the components of the present invention (comparative examples 3 to 8) in its entirety, or the composition comprising any plant component of the composition replaced by a conventional whitening component (licorice root extract), was kept at a low level, indicating that the composition of the present invention was scientific and reasonable in its formulation and compounding ratio.
Test example 3
Hydroxyl radical scavenging assay:
the amount of each solution added is shown in Table 9, and 9mmoL/L FeSO is added into the cuvette in sequence 4 9mmoL/L ethanol-salicylic acid, followed by the addition of an appropriate amount of deionized water, and finally 8.8mmoL/L H 2 O 2 Shaking, heating in 37deg.C water bath for 15 min, taking out, and measuring absorbance A 0 。A 0 During measurement, the reference solution is a system without adding hydrogen peroxide.The absorbance A was measured by adding the solutions shown in Table 9 in the above manner and setting three groups in parallel X 、A X0 。A X 、A X0 In the measurement, the reference solution was deionized water.
TABLE 9
The calculation formula is as follows: hydroxyl radical clearance (%) =a 0 -(A X -A X0 )/A 0 *100, wherein is A 0 Absorbance of the blank; a is that X Adding the absorbance value of the sample; a is that X0 To be free of color-developing agent H 2 O 2 Solution background absorbance.
The whitening and skin-brightening compositions of examples 1 to 5 and the compositions of comparative examples 1 to 11 were used to determine the scavenging rate of the hydroxyl radicals, and the results are shown in Table 10.
Table 10
Sample of Hydroxyl radical scavenging/%
Example 1 92.16
Example 2 90.26
Example 3 91.63
Example 4 88.46
Example 5 82.06
Comparative example 1 65.87
Comparative example 2 75.24
Comparative example 3 68.34
Comparative example 4 59.21
Comparative example 5 73.64
Comparative example 6 70.31
Comparative example 7 69.31
Comparative example 8 76.25
Comparative example 9 80.36
Comparative example 10 82.41
Comparative example 11 76.29
As can be seen from the data in Table 10, the compositions of examples 1 to 5 all have a hydroxyl radical scavenging rate of 82% or more, which indicates that the compositions have a good hydroxyl radical scavenging rate, while the comparative examples, except comparative example 10, have a hydroxyl radical scavenging rate substantially less than that of the examples, which indicates that the compositions of examples have synergistic complementation and synergy, and therefore exert better effects in the compositions and ratios of the present invention.
Test example 4
Human whitening test:
to exclude other disturbances, the applicant selected 10 volunteers with healthy skin and no history of skin care allergy, and applied the whitening cream of example 9 on one side and the blank cream of comparative example 12 on the other side with the left and right half-face areas as the tested parts. The medicine is used for 1 time in the morning and at night each day, is continuously used for 4 weeks, and is prevented from being washed by water after being smeared. The skin was examined for melanin content with a skin melanin tester before use and after every 1 week, respectively. The results are shown in Table 11.
TABLE 11
As can be seen from the results in Table 11, the whitening cream of example 9 was more excellent in depigmentation ability, and after four weeks of use, the melanin of the facial skin was generally reduced by about 20, whereas the melanin content of the blank cream of comparative example 12 was fluctuated up and down at the initial value under the same conditions, and the change was not obvious. Illustrating that the whitening and skin-brightening composition prepared in example 1 has a remarkable effect of reducing pigmentation.
In conclusion, the whitening and skin brightening composition provided by the invention has the synergistic effect through scientific and reasonable collocation. The composition has the characteristics of mildness and no stimulation, and the tyrosinase inhibition effect and the hydroxyl radical scavenging effect of the composition are obviously superior to those of a single or incomplete component or a comparison composition without protecting the content range or the replacement component. The whitening effect of the skin is tested by adding the cream into a cream matrix, and the result shows that compared with blank cream, the cream has good capability of reducing pigmentation.
The present invention has been described in detail in the above embodiments, but the present invention is not limited to the above examples, and various changes can be made within the knowledge of those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the present invention. Furthermore, embodiments of the invention and features of the embodiments may be combined with each other without conflict.

Claims (9)

1. A whitening and skin-brightening composition, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 1-10% of black willow bark extract, 1-10% of palm leaf extract and 1-10% of inula flower extract.
2. Use of the composition of claim 1 for the preparation of cosmetics.
3. The use according to claim 2, wherein the cosmetic has at least one of the functions (1) to (4):
(1) Whitening;
(2) Inhibiting tyrosinase activity;
(3) Reduce pigmentation;
(4) The scavenging rate of the hydroxyl free radicals is improved.
4. The use according to claim 3, wherein the cosmetic product comprises, but is not limited to, a lotion, an emulsion, a cream, a mask, a spray, an essence, a facial cleanser.
5. A cosmetic product, characterized in that it comprises the composition of claim 1.
6. The cosmetic according to claim 5, wherein the composition is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 10% by mass in the cosmetic.
7. The cosmetic product according to claim 6, characterized in that it further comprises an auxiliary agent or a carrier.
8. The cosmetic product according to claim 7, wherein the auxiliary agent comprises at least one of a humectant, an emulsifier, an emollient, a preservative, an antioxidant, a fragrance, a thickener, a chelating agent, a solubilizing agent, and a pH adjuster.
9. The cosmetic product according to claim 8, wherein,
the moisturizer comprises: at least one of glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, sodium hyaluronate, and 1, 2-hexanediol;
the emulsifier comprises: at least one of PEG-100 stearate, glycerol stearate, PEG-40 stearate, polysorbate-60, methyl glucose sesquistearate, polysorbate-20, C20-22 alcohol phosphate, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, cetostearyl alcohol polyether-12, steareth-2, steareth-21, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 polymethylsiloxane, lauryl PEG-9 dimethicone ethyl dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, dimethicone PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, cetyl stearyl alcohol olivate, sorbitan olivate, PEG-30 dimer hydroxy stearate, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, polyglyceryl-2 dimer hydroxy stearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, cetyl stearyl glucoside, sodium stearyl stearate, sodium cetyl glutamate;
the emollient comprises: at least one of jojoba seed oil, polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclopentadimethicone, shea butter, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, isohexadecane, octylpolymethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethicone, dioctyl carbonate, pentaerythritol tetra (ethyl hexanoate), coconut oil, squalane, olive fruit oil, white pond flower seed oil, propyl heptyl octoate, tri (ethyl hexanoate), caprylic/capric triglyceride, isononyl isononanoate;
the preservative comprises: at least one of methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, and potassium sorbate;
the antioxidant comprises: at least one of p-hydroxyacetophenone and tocopheryl acetate;
the thickener comprises: at least one of distearyl dimethyl ammonium hectorite, beeswax, ozokerite, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearic acid, behenic acid, hectorite, xanthan gum, acacia gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, sodium polyacrylate, carbomer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer;
the chelating agent comprises: disodium EDTA;
the solubilizer comprises: at least one of PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-butanol polyether-26;
the pH regulator comprises: at least one of aminomethylpropanol, arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, and triethanolamine.
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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108379180A (en) * 2018-05-28 2018-08-10 佛山市芊茹化妆品有限公司 Skin lightening compositions and skin whitener
CN108653093A (en) * 2018-07-05 2018-10-16 上海新高姿化妆品有限公司 A kind of cosmetic composition with whitening skin lightening
CN109528582A (en) * 2018-12-10 2019-03-29 澳宝化妆品(惠州)有限公司 A kind of skin care compositions containing black extract of willow bark

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108379180A (en) * 2018-05-28 2018-08-10 佛山市芊茹化妆品有限公司 Skin lightening compositions and skin whitener
CN108653093A (en) * 2018-07-05 2018-10-16 上海新高姿化妆品有限公司 A kind of cosmetic composition with whitening skin lightening
CN109528582A (en) * 2018-12-10 2019-03-29 澳宝化妆品(惠州)有限公司 A kind of skin care compositions containing black extract of willow bark

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