CN108653092B

CN108653092B - Cosmetic composition with synergistic whitening effect

Info

Publication number: CN108653092B
Application number: CN201810730272.5A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 闫继鹏; 李雪竹; 章志强
Original assignee: Shanghai New Cogi Cosmetic Co ltd
Current assignee: Shanghai New Cogi Cosmetic Co ltd
Priority date: 2018-07-05
Filing date: 2018-07-05
Publication date: 2020-06-05
Anticipated expiration: 2038-07-05
Also published as: CN108653092A

Abstract

The invention discloses a cosmetic composition with a synergistic whitening effect, which comprises 1.0-3.0% of nicotinamide, 1.0-4.0% of whitening compound, 0.5-1.5% of citrus peel extract, 0.1-0.5% of arbutin and 91.0-97.4% of cosmetic auxiliary material matrix; the components can avoid the phenomenon that the skin obtains negative feedback signals due to the sudden enhancement of signals of a certain whitening node, such as the reduction of melanin, the need of mass production of melanin, and the like. The invention also discloses a cosmetic with a synergistic whitening effect. According to the invention, raw materials with synergistic effect are selected at each whitening node, so that the tyrosinase activity can be inhibited, the melanin transfer can be inhibited, the skin color can be lightened, and simultaneously, each node in a whitening path can perform synergistic effect together, and finally, the safe, effective and stable whitening effect is achieved.

Description

Cosmetic composition with synergistic whitening effect

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a cosmetic composition with a synergistic whitening effect.

Background

East asian women were beautiful with white from ancient times, and many methods such as milk bath and the like were used for whitening. Even many toxic substances, such as the early lead and mercury facings, were used until the last century. Many whitening agents have been developed and selected since the recent years.

Currently, one of the most effective skin lightening actives is hydroquinone. However, hydroquinone, which has a small molecular weight, destroys melanocytes and may induce inflammation. Therefore, hydroquinone is subject to strict regulations in most countries of the world and is prohibited from being used as a cosmetic ingredient.

Rhododendrol was once the whitening active of a famous cosmetic company in japan. However, the latter suffers from the problem of over-whitening. The company then specifically apologizes to the customer for this issue.

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring medium chain fatty acid which is an important skin lightening agent with tyrosinase inhibiting effect. However, there are some technical and formulation problems in application. First, azelaic acid must be effective at high concentrations where it does not dissolve, making the formulated cosmetic of poor quality, especially very thick systems difficult to spread. Secondly, azelaic acid has a higher melting point and is generally more difficult to formulate.

L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives and licorice extract are easy to discolor, and its stability is not a little problem, and special attention is required for use.

Moreover, in order to make a short-term profit, some illegal merchants add glucocorticoid to cosmetics such as facial masks, which can produce whitening and firming effects in a short term, but have very serious consequences on human skin after long-term use.

With the development of modern science and technology, people know skin color systems more and more deeply. The shade of skin color is regulated by various factors, but still depends mainly on the content and distribution of melanin. Melanin is produced by melanocytes, one of the important constituent cells of the skin, which are dendritic processes through which intracellular melanin is transported into stratum corneum cells, in the ratio of 1: 36 and keratinocyte are formed into an epidermal unit, the epidermal unit exists in an epidermal basal layer, and melanocytes determine skin color depth by synthesizing melanin and can absorb ultraviolet rays so as to prevent the body from being damaged by the ultraviolet rays. The specific melanin formation process is as follows: when ultraviolet rays irradiate the skin, keratinocytes are stimulated to generate inflammatory secretion factors, histamine and the like, DNA is damaged and free radicals are generated, melanocytes are stimulated to differentiate and accelerate by the inflammatory factors, the free radicals and the like, the activity of internal tyrosinase is increased, tyrosine is converted into dopa under the catalytic action of tyrosinase and further converted into dopaquinone, the dopaquinone is converted into melanin through the reaction of the free radicals, and melanosomes are transmitted to the keratinocytes through dendrites, so that pigmentation of pigments in the skin is finally caused.

Recently, many companies have developed some whitening compositions, and more indeed some products with simply superimposed effects, which are difficult to achieve. How to develop a whitening scheme which is efficient, safe and stable and has synergy becomes a difficult point in the cosmetic industry at present.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to overcome the technical defects, the first object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition with a synergistic whitening effect, which not only can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and inhibit the phagocytic transfer of melanin, thereby achieving the whitening effect, but also can act synergistically in other aspects, so that the synergistic whitening effect can be achieved, and simultaneously, the synergistic whitening effect can be balanced without causing negative feedback phenomenon.

In order to solve the problems, the invention is realized according to the following technical scheme:

a cosmetic composition with a synergistic whitening effect comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

wherein the whitening complex comprises water, butylene glycol, arbutin, citric acid, sodium sulfite, acetyl tyrosine, strawberry saxifrage extract, peony root extract, aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate, scutellaria root extract, glutathione, hydrolyzed cherry plum.

Nicotinamide has outstanding effects in inhibiting melanosome transfer and accelerating damaged DNA repair. When the content of niacinamide in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is less than 1%, the overall whitening effect is much weakened by the test; when the nicotinamide content is more than 3%, the cytotoxicity is too high through in vitro cell tests. Therefore, the content of nicotinamide is 1-3%.

In the whitening compound, arbutin and scutellaria root extracts can absorb ultraviolet rays; radix Scutellariae extract and radix moutan extract can inhibit inflammatory factor activity; arbutin can inhibit tyrosinase activity; the extract of herba Saxifragae, radix Scutellariae extract, and ascorbic acid phosphate aminopropanol can inhibit natural oxidative polymerization of melanin and reduce melanin formation; the extract of herba Saxifragae can repair DNA damage caused by ultraviolet; glutathione can promote the synthesis of pheomelanin but not eumelanin; acetyl tyrosine is able to compete with tyrosine for tyrosinase; the aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate and citric acid can promote cell proliferation and keratinocyte renewal; hydrolyzed cherry plum can inhibit melanin from being engulfed by keratinocyte. Through research and experimental analysis on the mechanism, in the cosmetic composition, when the dosage of the whitening compound is less than 1%, the whitening effect of the cosmetic composition is not obvious; when the whitening complex is used in an amount higher than 4%, the heat-resistant and light-resistant stability of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is deteriorated. Thus, the selective amount of whitening compound is 1-4%.

The citrus peel extract in the cosmetic composition of the invention has the effect of making the skin smoother and more bright in cooperation with other components, and the total flavone content and the type are a standard for the quality. The citrus peel extract in the cosmetic composition adopts a carbon dioxide supercritical extraction technology, the content of the total flavone of the citrus peel extract extracted by the technology can be more than 2.5 percent, is obviously higher than that extracted by other modes, and has the advantages of environmental friendliness and energy conservation. In the test of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, when the content of the citrus peel extract is less than 0.5%, the effect thereof is slight; when the content of the citrus peel extract is more than 1.5%, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is easily discolored under light and heat resistance at 45 ℃. Therefore, the content of the citrus peel extract is 0.5-1.5%.

Arbutin has the ability to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the process of melanin production, and also has the effect of absorbing ultraviolet rays. Because arbutin has similarity with tyrosine in structure, the arbutin can compete with tyrosine to bind tyrosinase in the process of synthesizing melanin by tyrosine, thereby reducing the effect of tyrosinase on synthesizing melanin. In the test of the cosmetic composition of the present invention, when the content of arbutin is less than 0.1%, it exerts little whitening effect; when the arbutin content is more than 0.5%, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is apt to turn red during storage. Therefore, the content of arbutin is 0.1-0.5%.

Further, the paint comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

further, the whitening compound comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

46.3-50.0% of water, 40.0-50.0% of butanediol, 0.3-0.8% of arbutin, 0.3-0.6% of citric acid, 0.4-0.6% of sodium sulfite, 0.1-0.3% of acetyltyrosine, 0.01-0.3% of strawberry saxifrage extract, 0.01-0.2% of peony root extract, 0.001-0.1% of aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate ester, 0.01-0.1% of scutellaria root extract, 0.001-0.1% of glutathione and 0.01-0.6% of hydrolyzed cherry plum.

Further, the cosmetic auxiliary material matrix comprises one or more of a humectant, a chelating agent, an emollient, a skin conditioner, a solubilizer, an essence, a preservative and water.

Further, the nicotinamide is a cosmetic raw material with the nicotinic acid content of less than 100 PPM.

Furthermore, the citrus peel extract adopts a carbon dioxide supercritical extraction technology, and the total flavone content of the citrus peel extract is more than 2.5%.

Further, the arbutin is a cosmetic grade raw material with the content of more than 98 percent.

In order to overcome the above technical disadvantages, a second object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic having a synergistic whitening effect.

a cosmetic with a synergistic whitening effect is prepared from the cosmetic composition with the synergistic whitening effect.

Further, the cosmetic is skin cream, skin lotion, skin gel, skin essence or skin lotion.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

(1) the invention provides a cosmetic composition with a synergistic whitening effect, which comprises 1.0-3.0% of nicotinamide, 1.0-4.0% of whitening compound, 0.5-1.5% of citrus peel extract, 0.1-0.5% of arbutin and 91.0-97.4% of cosmetic auxiliary material matrix; the components can avoid the phenomenon that the skin obtains negative feedback signals due to the sudden enhancement of signals of a certain whitening node, such as the reduction of melanin, the need of mass production of melanin, and the like. The cosmetic composition disclosed by the invention can not only realize synergistic action on a plurality of whitening key points so as to highlight the whitening effect, but also can be controlled on the node of the whole whitening chain so as to enable the human skin system to harmoniously reduce the generation and transmission of melanin, thereby achieving the effects of whitening and brightening the skin.

(2) The cosmetic with the synergistic whitening effect has a remarkable whitening and skin brightening effect.

Detailed Description

The preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, and it will be understood that they are described herein for the purpose of illustration and explanation and not limitation.

The invention discloses a cosmetic composition with a synergistic whitening effect, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

wherein the whitening complex comprises water, butylene glycol, arbutin, citric acid, sodium sulfite, acetyl tyrosine, herba Saxifragae extract, peony root extract, aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate, Scutellariae radix extract, glutathione, and hydrolyzed Prunus cerasifera.

Various test instruments and reagents are all commercial products and can be purchased through commercial approaches; wherein, the nicotinamide is a cosmetic raw material with nicotinic acid content less than 100 PPM; the total flavone content of the citrus peel extract is more than 2.5%; the arbutin is a cosmetic grade material with the content of more than 98 percent.

Examples 1 to 3

The cosmetic compositions having the synergistic whitening effect of examples 1 to 3 were prepared into whitening essences, and the raw material composition ratios thereof are shown in table 1.

Table 1 whitening essence lotion compositions of examples 1 to 3

Wherein the components of the whitening complex are shown in table 2.

Table 2 components of whitening complexes

Component name	Content (wt.)
		Water (W)	48.9930g
Butanediol	48.7511g
		Arbutin	0.4750g
Citric acid	0.4750g
		Sodium sulfite	0.4750g
Acetyl tyrosine	0.1425g
		Strawberry saxifrage extract	0.1188g
Peony root extract	0.0855g
		Aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate ester	0.04725g
Scutellaria root extract	0.0428g
		Glutathione	0.0048g
Hydrolyzed cherry plum	0.3890g

The cosmetic compositions having the synergistic whitening effects of examples 1 to 3, prepared as whitening essence lotions, were prepared by the method comprising the steps of:

1) compounding the raw material components as shown in table 1;

2) putting deionized water into a production pot, adding xanthan gum and hyaluronic acid pre-dispersed by 1.3-butanediol and glycerol, then adding EDTA-2NA and allantoin, heating to 85 ℃, keeping the temperature and stirring for 20 minutes, starting cooling water, cooling to 45 ℃, adding arbutin, nicotinamide, whitening compound, citrus peel extract, solubilizer, essence and preservative, stirring for 20 minutes, cooling to room temperature, and discharging after inspection is qualified.

Wherein the whitening composition is formulated according to table 2.

Example 4

The raw material components of the cosmetic composition having a synergistic whitening effect of example 4 were as shown in table 3 to prepare a whitening emulsion.

Table 3 whitening emulsion components of example 4

Composition (I)	Example 4
		Nicotinamide	2g
Whitening compound	3g
		Citrus peel extract	1g
Arbutin	0.5g
		Carbomer	0.2g
Glycerol	2g
		EDTA-2NA	0.03g
Allantoin	0.2g
		1, 3-butanediol	4g
Chinese gum	0.2g
		Steareth-2	0.6g
Steareth-21	1.0g
		Hexadecanol and octadecanol	1.2g
Caprylic/capric triglyceride	4g
		Myristic acid isopropyl ester	3g
Polydimethylsiloxane	2g
		Triethanolamine	0.2g
Essence	0.05g
		Preservative	0.05g
Deionized water	74.77g

The cosmetic composition having the synergistic whitening effect of example 4, which is prepared as a whitening emulsion, is prepared by a method comprising the steps of:

1) the raw material components were prepared as shown in table 3;

2) adding deionized water into a water pot, adding carbomer under rapid stirring, stirring for swelling, adding xanthan gum, 1.3-butanediol, EDTA-2NA and allantoin with dispersed glycerol, heating to 85 deg.C, maintaining the temperature, and stirring for 20 min;

3) putting steareth-2, steareth-21, cetostearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate and polydimethylsiloxane into an oil pan, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring for 20 minutes under heat preservation;

4) pumping the raw materials of a water pot and an oil pot into an emulsifying pot, homogenizing at high speed for 10 minutes, preserving heat, stirring for 20 minutes, cooling to 45 ℃, adding the arbutin, nicotinamide, whitening compound, orange peel extract, essence and preservative dissolved by triethanolamine and deionized water, stirring for 20 minutes, cooling to room temperature, inspecting and discharging after the materials are qualified.

Wherein the whitening composition is formulated according to table 2.

Comparative examples 1 to 5

The whitening essence lotion was prepared from the cosmetic compositions having synergistic whitening effects of comparative examples 1 to 5, and the raw material composition ratios thereof are shown in table 4.

TABLE 4 whitening essence lotion compositions of comparative examples 1 to 5

The preparation method of the whitening essence lotion prepared from the cosmetic compositions having the synergistic whitening effects of comparative examples 1 to 5 was the same as in example 1.

Comparative examples 6 to 15

The whitening emulsions prepared from the cosmetic compositions of comparative examples 6 to 15 having a synergistic whitening effect were prepared, and the raw material composition ratios thereof are shown in tables 5 and 6.

TABLE 5 whitening emulsion Components of control examples 6-11

TABLE 6 whitening emulsion Components of comparative examples 12-15

The whitening emulsion prepared from the cosmetic compositions of comparative examples 6 to 15 having a synergistic whitening effect was prepared in the same manner as in example 4.

Safety test

1. The number of tested persons: 30 persons in total, 3 men and 27 women; minimum age: 25 years, maximum age: age 45 years old; mean age 35 ± 10 years volunteer enrollment criteria;

2. the test method comprises the following steps: examples 1-4 were tested for patch. Selecting a qualified spot tester, placing about 0.020-0.025 mL of a tested object into the spot tester by using a closed spot test method, externally applying a medical adhesive tape to the back of the tested object, removing the tested object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions 0.5, 24 and 48 hours after the spot is removed, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

3. The evaluation criteria are shown in Table 7.

TABLE 7 evaluation criteria

Through determination, the result of the skin closed patch test on human body shows that 0 cases of 30 persons in comparison table 7 have positive reaction, and the test object does not cause adverse skin reaction to the batch of test subjects according to the regulation in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

Stability test

1. Stability test samples: example 3, example 4 product;

2. the test method comprises the following steps: the internal control standard (illumination for 1 month and high and low temperature test for 3 months) is higher than the national standard and the industrial standard;

3. the test results are shown in tables 8 and 9.

Table 8 example 3 product test results

Table 9 example 4 product test results

The results in tables 8 and 9 show that: the cosmetic composition with the synergistic whitening effect has good stability in product application.

Examples of Effect test

1. The tester: 170 healthy women (25-45 years old) divided into 17 groups of 10 persons each, each group using the same formula;

2. test area: face (left face blank, right face control sample or example sample; wherein the blanks of examples 1-3, 1-4 are control 5; and the blanks of examples 4, 6-14 are control 15);

3. use of: twice a day in the morning and evening for 4 weeks;

4. testing an instrument: delfin skincolorlatch (finland);

5. the effect indexes are as follows: the change in color brightness (Δ L) and the ITA degree were measured, and the L value (brightness) and the ITA degree (color individual type angle) were mainly used as indices in the present invention. The test results are shown in table 11.

(1) Equation: Δ L ═ L (after 1 month of the test on the control or example products) -L (before the start of the test)]- [ L (after 1 month of the test on the blank product) -L (before the start of the test)]；

(2) The ITA degree (representing the overall change in chromaticity, the larger the ITA degree value, the lighter the skin color) is, as shown in Table 10.

TABLE 10 ITA degree

ITA degree range	Skin color classification
		55–90	Very shallow Very light
41–54	Light shallow
		28–40	Intermediate, etc
10–27	Tanned tanning
		-30–9	Brown color of Brown
-90–-29	-29Dark color of Dark color

Average values for each group (average value for each group is 28);

average values for each group.

TABLE 11 test results

As can be seen from table 11, the cosmetic composition with synergistic whitening effect of the present invention has relatively significant whitening and brightening effects through the synergistic effect between the components, and the whitening effect is more significant than that of the comparative example containing only one, two or three components in combination.

The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the present invention in any way, so that any modification, equivalent change and modification made to the above embodiment according to the technical spirit of the present invention are within the scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. The cosmetic composition with the synergistic whitening effect is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

1.0-3.0% of nicotinamide;

1.0-4.0% of whitening compound;

0.5-1.5% of citrus peel extract; the citrus peel extract adopts a carbon dioxide supercritical extraction technology, and the total flavone content of the citrus peel extract is more than 2.5%;

0.1 to 0.5 percent of arbutin;

91.0-97.4% of cosmetic auxiliary material matrix;

wherein the whitening compound comprises 46.3-50.0% of water, 40.0-50.0% of butanediol, 0.3-0.8% of arbutin, 0.3-0.6% of citric acid, 0.4-0.6% of sodium sulfite, 0.1-0.3% of acetyl tyrosine, 0.01-0.3% of strawberry saxifraga stolonifera extract, 0.01-0.2% of peony root extract, 0.001-0.1% of aminopropanol ascorbic acid phosphate, 0.01-0.1% of scutellaria root extract, 0.001-0.1% of glutathione and 0.01-0.6% of hydrolyzed cherry plum.

2. The cosmetic composition with the synergistic whitening effect according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

3. the cosmetic composition having a synergistic whitening effect according to claim 1, characterized in that: the cosmetic auxiliary material matrix is selected from one or more of humectant, chelating agent, emollient, skin conditioner, solubilizer, essence, antiseptic and water.

4. The cosmetic composition having a synergistic whitening effect according to claim 1, characterized in that: the nicotinamide is a cosmetic raw material with nicotinic acid content less than 100 PPM.

5. The cosmetic composition having a synergistic whitening effect according to claim 1, characterized in that: the arbutin is a cosmetic grade raw material with the content of more than 98 percent.

6. A cosmetic having a synergistic whitening effect, characterized in that: the cosmetic is prepared from the cosmetic composition having the synergistic whitening effect according to any one of claims 1 to 5.

7. The cosmetic with a synergistic whitening effect according to claim 6, characterized in that: the cosmetic is skin cream, skin lotion, skin gel, skin essence or skin lotion.