CN112402342A

CN112402342A - Anti-aging cosmetic additive and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN112402342A
Application number: CN202011392166.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 刘山; 李宁; 邱菊兰; 尹全尹; 向文浩
Original assignee: Guangzhou Bese Clean Cosmetics Manufacturer Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Bese Clean Cosmetics Manufacturer Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-12-01
Filing date: 2020-12-01
Publication date: 2021-02-26

Abstract

The invention relates to an anti-aging cosmetic additive and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics, and comprising the following components in percentage by weight: 15% -30% of giant salamander skin collagen, 3% -10% of idebene, 12% -20% of curcumin, 10% -20% of crocus sativus extract, 6% -10% of glutathione, 54% -10% of palmitoyl tripeptide, 45% -15% of palmitoyl pentapeptide, 11% -8% of oligopeptide, 22% -8% of oligopeptide and 14% -8% of tridecapeptide; the skin-care product contains different effective components and reasonable proportion, and the active components are mutually cooperated, so that the skin aging caused by endogenous factors and exogenous factors can be resisted at the same time, the antioxidant active substances in the components can be fully permeated into the skin, the skin-care product is beneficial to fading wrinkles, color spots and other signs, the fine lines can be smoothed, the skin can be improved, and the effect of resisting the skin aging can be achieved. The additive is mild and safe, can be added into skin care products such as emulsion, skin cream and the like, and has wide application range.

Description

Anti-aging cosmetic additive and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to an anti-aging cosmetic additive and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Skin aging refers to the aging damage of skin function, which reduces the protection ability and regulation ability of skin to human body, so that the skin can not adapt to the change of internal and external environment, and the change of overall appearance conditions such as color, luster, shape, texture, etc. appears. Aged skin appears thin and dry at the epidermis, weak and loose at the junction, and weak, loss of collagen and elastin at the dermis.

Skin aging is classified into intrinsic aging and extrinsic aging. Endogenous aging is genetically controlled aging, and natural aging with age is an extremely complex and unavoidable intrinsic process. Some of the reactions that occur during aging include damage caused by free radicals, collagen destruction, slowed cellular metabolism, abnormal cell formation, reduced fat content, decreased intercellular substance, natural cell death, hormonal dyssecretion, hypoxia, etc., and changes in the skin such as wrinkles, age spots, loss of elasticity, etc.

Exogenous aging is mainly the effect of the environment on the skin, including environmental attack, bad life habits, sun damage, etc. Environmental attack mainly includes pollution, cold, wind and the like, bad living habits mainly include smoking, staying up all night and the like, deficiency of vitamins or other elements is also one of causes of skin damage, and important damage is damage to the skin caused by ultraviolet rays from sunlight penetrating into the skin and promoting generation of free radicals under sunlight exposure. Of the extrinsic aging, photoaging is a significant cause of aging.

In the commercially available anti-aging cosmetics, the anti-aging effect of most cosmetics is achieved by moisturizing, anti-oxidation and free radical scavenging, most cosmetics are resistant to aging caused by endogenous factors, but the skin aging is caused by the combined action of endogenous aging and exogenous aging.

The existing anti-aging cosmetics lack the effect of resisting skin aging caused by endogenous factors and exogenous factors at the same time, and in addition, partial anti-oxidation active substances are not easy to permeate into the skin, so the anti-oxidation effect cannot be fully utilized. There is therefore a need for a cosmetic product which simultaneously counteracts the ageing of the skin caused by endogenous and exogenous factors and which also allows the antioxidant active substances of the components to penetrate sufficiently into the skin.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to overcome the problems in the background art, the invention provides an anti-aging cosmetic additive and a preparation method thereof, which can simultaneously resist skin aging caused by endogenous factors and exogenous factors, and can also enable anti-oxidation active substances in the components to fully permeate into the skin, so that the substances among the components generate synergistic effect and are better absorbed by the skin.

In order to realize the purpose, the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:

the anti-aging cosmetic additive comprises the following components: giant salamander skin collagen, idebene, curcumin, crocus sativus extract, glutathione, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, oligopeptide-1, oligopeptide-2 and tridecapeptide-1.

The cosmetic additive comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 15% -30% of giant salamander skin collagen, 3% -10% of idebene, 12% -20% of curcumin, 10% -20% of crocus sativus extract, 6% -10% of glutathione, 54% -10% of palmitoyl tripeptide, 45% -15% of palmitoyl pentapeptide, 11% -8% of oligopeptide, 22% -8% of oligopeptide and 14% -8% of tridecapeptide.

Further, the crocus sativus extract is obtained by adopting an ethanol extraction mode.

Furthermore, the cosmetic additive is applied to anti-aging cosmetics.

Further, a step of mixing the components of the cosmetic additive.

The action mechanism or the characteristics of the effective components of the invention are as follows:

giant salamander skin collagen mainly contains two different types of collagen, namely acid-soluble collagen (ASC) and pepsin enzymatic soluble collagen (PSC), which are type i collagen and both of which have a relatively complete triple helix structure. Antioxidant experiments show that the collagen extracted from the giant salamander skin by the acid method has better capacity of eliminating DPPH free radicals and hydroxyl free radicals (. OH), IC 50 values are 9.96 and 7.79mg/mL respectively, and the giant salamander skin collagen has an anti-aging effect. In addition, the giant salamander skin collagen also has good water absorption, stable foamability and good emulsibility, and the three points are functional indexes of protein applied to cosmetics. Therefore, the giant salamander skin collagen is a good cosmetic additive. The giant salamander skin collagen has very strong skin permeability, and can not only permeate into the horny layer of the skin, but also permeate into the epidermal layer.

Idebene is ubiquinone antioxidant present in living cell membrane, and can be used in cosmetic formulation, and has effects in scavenging free radicals, inhibiting lipid peroxidation, inhibiting inflammation, inhibiting DNA injury, photoprotecting, and relieving pigmentation. Is involved in the electron transport chain involved in the production of adenosine triphosphate as energy of cells in mitochondria, and is effective for activation of cells; and prevents the formation of reactive oxygen species in mitochondria, thereby protecting the skin.

Extracting pulverized Curcuma rhizome with ethanol or acetone, centrifuging or filtering to separate extractive solution, concentrating, refining, and drying to obtain curcumin. Curcumin is a diketone compound, has effects of reducing blood lipid, resisting tumor, resisting inflammation, promoting bile flow, resisting oxidation, etc., and can be used in cosmetics for delaying skin cell aging and reducing wrinkle.

The crocus extract is obtained by adopting an ethanol extraction mode, and is extracted by adopting an extraction method after the crocus is mixed with ethanol. Many flavonoids and quinoa chalcones found in saffron extracts have antioxidant and free radical scavenging activity, and can scavenge hydroxyl free radicals, DHPP free radicals, superoxide anion free radicals, and singlet oxygen. The crocus sativus extract can simultaneously inhibit the depolymerization of hyaluronidase, and the hyaluronidase is used for temporarily reducing the viscosity of intercellular substance of human body, can promote the active substance to diffuse quickly and facilitate the absorption, is an important diffusant and promotes the absorption of the active substance.

Glutathione is an important antioxidant in the body and can remove free radicals in the human body; because the glutathione is easily oxidized by certain substances, the glutathione can protect sulfydryl in molecules such as a plurality of proteins and enzymes from being oxidized by harmful substances in vivo, thereby ensuring the normal exertion of the physiological functions of the molecules such as the proteins and the enzymes; the content of glutathione in human erythrocytes is large, which has important significance for protecting the sulfhydryl of protein on erythrocyte membrane in reduction state and preventing hemolysis.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 can activate tissue growth factor (TGF-beta) to generate collagen, and simultaneously protect the collagen from being decomposed by matrix metalloproteinase, thereby effectively removing wrinkles and improving skin. In the invention, the palmitoyl tripeptide-5 and the giant salamander skin collagen act synergistically to protect the giant salamander skin collagen from being decomposed by matrix metalloproteinase.

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is a highly specific, biologically active small molecule peptide; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 is used as messenger peptide, can stimulate the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycan in the dermis layer of the skin, reduce fine lines of the skin, effectively improve wrinkles, enhance the tightness and glossiness of the skin, improve the skin color, resist wrinkles and aging, improve the elasticity and moisture of the skin

The oligopeptide-1 and the oligopeptide-2 have the effects of promoting the growth of basal layer tissues, promoting the integral metabolism speed of epidermal and dermal cells, accelerating the repair of skin barriers, improving the repair capacity of skin, improving skin problems such as acne, red blood streak, roughness, darkness and the like, increasing the elasticity of skin and presenting young healthy skin.

The tridecapeptide-1 can promote the generation of new skin cells, reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles; the tridecapeptide-1 can increase the vitality and energy of the skin and brighten the skin color; the tridecapeptide-1 promotes the generation of new skin cells and lightens scars; tridecapeptide-1 promotes cell growth, cell migration, cell survival and increased expression of extracellular matrix.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

1. giant salamander skin collagen mainly contains two different types of collagen, namely acid-soluble collagen (ASC) and pepsin enzymatic soluble collagen (PSC), which are type i collagen and both of which have a relatively complete triple helix structure. Antioxidant experiments show that the collagen extracted from the giant salamander skin by the acid method has better capacity of eliminating DPPH free radicals and hydroxyl free radicals (. OH), and has the function of resisting aging. In addition, the giant salamander skin collagen also has good water absorption, stable foamability and good emulsibility, and the three points are functional indexes of protein applied to cosmetics; curcumin and saffron extract also have strong oxidation resistance. The effective components are scientifically combined, so that the additive can not only eliminate free radicals and resist aging caused by endogenous factors, but also effectively block aging caused by part of exogenous factors.

2. Idebenes contain complex structures similar to quinone groups, saturated hydrocarbons and hydroxyl groups, and are not easily penetrated by the skin; the crocus sativus extract can inhibit depolymerization of hyaluronidase, which is difficult for the idebene to pass through intercellular lipid, and hyaluronidase can temporarily reduce the viscosity of intercellular substance, so that the idebene can be smoothly absorbed.

3. Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 can activate tissue growth factor (TGF-beta) to generate collagen, and simultaneously protect the collagen from being decomposed by matrix metalloproteinase, thereby effectively removing wrinkles and improving skin. In the invention, the palmitoyl tripeptide-5 and the giant salamander skin collagen act synergistically to protect the giant salamander skin collagen from being decomposed by matrix metalloproteinase.

4. According to the invention, through scientific compatibility of the active substances, a synergistic effect is generated, the antioxidant substances are promoted to act on the skin, the effects of fading wrinkles, color spots and other signs, smoothing fine lines and improving the skin are facilitated, and the effect of resisting skin aging is further achieved. The additive is mild and safe, can be added into skin care products such as emulsion, skin cream and the like, and has wide application range.

Detailed Description

In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below to facilitate understanding of the skilled person.

In the following examples, the preparation method of crocus sativus extract was: the crocus sativus sold by Lijiang Benzizang medicinal material development Limited company is extracted according to the conventional method in the field, and is extracted by an extraction method after being mixed with ethanol.

The components of the anti-aging cosmetic additives of examples 1 to 3 were as shown in table 1 in percentage content, and the cosmetic additives were obtained by mixing and stirring the components in the table uniformly.

TABLE 1 EXAMPLES 1-3 additive Components and percent amounts

The components of the anti-aging cosmetic additives of comparative examples 1 to 3 were as shown in Table 2 in percentage content, and the cosmetic additives were obtained by mixing and stirring the components in the table uniformly.

TABLE 2 comparative examples 1-3 additive composition and percent amounts

Evaluation of efficacy

The cosmetic additives prepared in the above examples and comparative examples were added to the same type of emulsion, respectively, and skin use tests were performed, and skin moisture, wrinkles, color spots, and UVA resistance tests were performed in the following manner:

skin moisture measurement and skin elasticity measurement

50 subjects, 30 women and 20 men; age 32-58 years, mean age 39.3 years; the facial skin problems of the subjects have the problems of color spots, wrinkles and dark skin, and the differences of the subjects in terms of age, sex, disease course, symptoms and the like have no statistical significance.

The using method comprises the following steps: after face cleaning is carried out by warm water in the morning and evening, a proper amount of the emulsion prepared in the examples and the comparative examples is smeared on the face skin, and the face is gently tapped until complete absorption.

The water content is measured by a German CK Dermaexpert MC760 skin tester, the skin moisture used for 15 days and 30 days is respectively tested, the same temperature (22 ℃ -25 ℃) and the same air humidity (45% -55%) are ensured as much as possible, the water content change before and after use is compared, and the data of 50 persons are averaged.

The skin elasticity value is measured by a German DJM skin tester, the skin elasticity values of 15 days and 30 days are respectively tested, the same temperature (22-25 ℃) and the same air humidity (45-55%) are ensured as much as possible, the elasticity value change before and after use is compared, and the data of 50 persons are averaged. The test results were as follows:

TABLE 3 moisture measurements of examples and comparative examples

As can be seen from Table 3, although the facial skin moisture content did not change significantly in the 30-day period of the emulsion using the blank (without the anti-aging cosmetic additive), the facial skin moisture content was significantly increased after the emulsion of any of examples 1-3 and was superior to that of comparative examples 1-4.

TABLE 4 measurement of skin elasticity values of examples and comparative examples

As can be seen from Table 4, although the facial skin elasticity values did not change significantly in the 30-day period of the emulsions using the blank (without the anti-aging cosmetic additive), the facial skin moisture content was significantly increased after the emulsions of any of examples 1-3 were used, and was superior to those of comparative examples 1-4.

The skin moisture content and the skin elasticity value are important indexes for measuring skin aging, and can be obtained through the skin moisture and the skin elasticity value, and the giant salamander skin collagen and the crocus sativus extract have the effects of resisting oxidation and removing free radicals; the crocus sativus extract can inhibit the depolymerization of hyaluronidase which is used for temporarily reducing the viscosity of intercellular substance of human body and promoting the diffusion of the idebene to be beneficial to absorption; the palmitoyl tripeptide-5 and the giant salamander skin collagen have synergistic effect, so that the giant salamander skin collagen is protected from being decomposed by matrix metalloproteinase, and the combination substances are scientifically compatible to generate synergistic effect and improve the moisture content and the skin elasticity value of the skin.

UVA resistance test

The cosmetic emulsions prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 4 were each precisely weighed to obtain about 50mg, and uniformly applied to a 5 cm. times.5 cm-roughened polymethyl methacrylate plate (2 mg/cm:). An equal amount of the above sample was also precisely weighed as a non-irradiated blank control.

At 365nm (UVA), the blank control was placed in a light source-free environment; the transmittance was measured using a Labsphere UV2000S spectrometer for analysis. 365nm (UVA), with UVA radiation.

TABLE 5 transmittance of examples and comparative examples to UVA

The transmittance of example and comparative cosmetics to UVA was measured under non-irradiated, uv-irradiated and incandescent light source irradiation conditions, and the results are shown in table 3. As can be seen from table 5, examples 1-3 have low transmittance (< 5%) for uv radiation, and no significant change in transmittance under uv radiation and incandescent light source, indicating strong UVA resistance and stability to light. Comparative examples 1-4 have greater UVA transmission, indicating comparative examples 1-4 have less UVA resistance. The invention can not only resist the aging caused by endogenous factors, but also effectively block the aging caused by part of exogenous factors.

Analysis results of wrinkles and color spots

The using method comprises the following steps: after face cleaning with warm water in the morning and evening, the appropriate amount of the lotion prepared in example 1 was applied to the skin of the face and patted gently until complete absorption.

The VISIA skin tester was used to record wrinkles and blotches on the skin before and after use.

Results from the subject VISIA skin image analysis system showed significant improvement in wrinkles and uv pigmented spots after treatment in the subject, see table 6.

TABLE 6 results of before and after use of VISIA skin tester

As can be seen from table 6, when the emulsion prepared in example 2 is applied to the skin of the face, wrinkles and uv pigmented spots on the face are significantly improved, and the giant salamander skin collagen, idebene, curcumin, crocus sativus extract, glutathione, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, oligopeptide-1, oligopeptide-2 and tridecapeptide-1 are scientifically combined to generate a synergistic effect, so that not only can free radicals be removed, but also the antioxidant substances can be promoted to act on the skin, thereby helping to reduce wrinkles and spots.

Evaluation of therapeutic Effect (doctor evaluation and subjective evaluation of patient)

The doctor evaluation method comprises the following steps: the doctor evaluated the change of the skin of the subject before and after using the emulsion prepared in example 1. According to Fitzpatrick wrinkle grading method: grade I, mild wrinkles (1-3 points); and II, stage: medium wrinkles (4-6 points); grade III: severe wrinkles (score 7-9).

The subjective evaluation method comprises the following steps: the subjects subjectively evaluated the change in skin before and after the use of the emulsion prepared in example 2. According to the satisfaction rate of very satisfactory, satisfied, general and unsatisfactory, or the total of very satisfactory and satisfactory.

TABLE 7 evaluation results of doctors

As can be seen from table 7, after the anti-aging additive emulsion of the present application was used, a total of 46 skin aging problems were improved in the subjects, and the skin aging improvement rate was 92%.

TABLE 8 subjective evaluation results

As can be seen from Table 8, the subjects consciously had fine, smooth and shiny skin before treatment, with satisfaction of 80%.

Through the comparative analysis of the test results and the curative effect evaluation, the invention shows that the synergistic effect is generated by compounding giant salamander skin collagen, idebene, curcumin, crocus extract, glutathione, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, oligopeptide-1, oligopeptide-2 and tridecapeptide-1, so that the aging signs are lightened, fine wrinkles are smoothed, and the skin is improved; promoting cell proliferation and collagen production, and delaying skin aging. The additive is mild and safe, can be added into skin care products such as emulsion, skin cream and the like, and has wide application range.

Finally, it is noted that the above-mentioned preferred embodiments illustrate rather than limit the invention, and that, although the invention has been described in detail with reference to the above-mentioned preferred embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes in form and detail may be made therein without departing from the scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims.

Claims

1. An anti-aging cosmetic additive, characterized by: the cosmetic additive comprises the following components: giant salamander skin collagen, idebene, curcumin, crocus sativus extract, glutathione, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, oligopeptide-1, oligopeptide-2 and tridecapeptide-1.

2. The anti-aging cosmetic additive according to claim 1, wherein: the cosmetic additive comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 15% -30% of giant salamander skin collagen, 3% -10% of idebene, 12% -20% of curcumin, 10% -20% of crocus sativus extract, 6% -10% of glutathione, 54% -10% of palmitoyl tripeptide, 45% -15% of palmitoyl pentapeptide, 11% -8% of oligopeptide, 22% -8% of oligopeptide and 14% -8% of tridecapeptide.

3. An anti-aging cosmetic additive according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: the crocus sativus extract is obtained by adopting an ethanol extraction mode.

4. Use of the cosmetic additive according to any one of claims 1 to 3 in an anti-aging cosmetic.

5. A method for preparing a cosmetic additive according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising: mixing the components of the cosmetic additive.