CN113876622A - Aurora essence lotion and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Aurora essence lotion and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN113876622A
CN113876622A CN202111314516.XA CN202111314516A CN113876622A CN 113876622 A CN113876622 A CN 113876622A CN 202111314516 A CN202111314516 A CN 202111314516A CN 113876622 A CN113876622 A CN 113876622A
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aurora
stirring
skin
ceramide
mixture
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姜敏
邓燕明
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Guangdong Zhongsheng Pharmaceutical Technology Co ltd
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
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  • Biophysics (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of skin care products, in particular to aurora essence water which mainly adopts nano liposome ceramide, compounded with glycerol glucoside, hydrolyzed collagen, tridecapeptide-1 and other components, and also provides a preparation method of the aurora essence water; through reasonable matching of raw materials and a special production process, the ceramide can quickly permeate, is absorbed and utilized by skin, quickly recovers the moisture retention and barrier functions, and makes the product present flowing illusion pearlescence so as to bring novel visual perception to consumers.

Description

Aurora essence lotion and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of skin care products, and particularly relates to aurora essence lotion and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Ceramides, also known as sphingolipids, are lipids present in the skin, play an important role in the formation of the epidermal stratum corneum and are common structural units of sphingolipids. Fatty acids have a structure of acid amide bond at the amino group of sphingosine, and become glycosphingolipids if a sugar is bound thereto, and (neuro) sphingomyelin if phosphorylcholine is bound thereto; ceramides are intermediate metabolites of sphingolipids, and particularly occupy important positions in biosynthesis. Research in recent years shows that when the skin is dry, desquamated and cracked and the barrier function of the skin is obviously reduced, the skin can quickly recover the moisture retention and the barrier function by supplementing ceramide; but ceramide is difficult to dissolve in water and oil and forms recrystallization, so that the ceramide cannot reach effective concentration in a product and cannot play a role, the utilization rate is not high, and the product effect is not ideal.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the above-mentioned drawbacks and disadvantages of the prior art, an object of the present invention is to provide an aurora water concentrate containing ceramide, which can rapidly permeate ceramide, be absorbed and utilized by skin, rapidly restore moisture retention and barrier functions, and form fantastic pearlescence to provide pleasant visual enjoyment.
The stratum corneum of the skin presents a precise brick wall structure, the adhesion between keratinocytes and cells plays a main role by ester bonds between ceramide and cell surface proteins, the adhesion is determined by the quantity of the ceramide and the proteins, the quantity of the ceramide and the proteins is less, the ester bonds between the ceramide and the cell surface proteins are less, the cells are loose and not compact, the skin has poor moisturizing capability, and the skin is dry. The invention adopts the matching of ceramide, glycerol glucoside, tridecapeptide-1 and hydrolyzed collagen wrapped by liposome, accelerates the osmotic absorption of various active substances through the transdermal absorption effect of the tridecapeptide-1, improves the content of the ceramide in intercellular substance, activates the cell activity by the glycerol glucoside, promotes the synthesis of collagen and improves the content of cell surface protein, thereby increasing the ester bond quantity between the ceramide and the protein and restoring the connection between cells, simultaneously, the glycerol glucoside can also activate aquaporin AQP3 to promote the active absorption of water and quickly supplement the skin water, thereby distinguishing the dry and desquamation state of the skin, quickly restoring the tender and moist state and perfectly repairing the skin barrier.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that:
the aurora essence lotion comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure BDA0003343166200000021
preferably, the humectant is one or more of an amino acid humectant, oat glucan, and trehalose.
Preferably, the polyhydric alcohol is one or more of hexanediol, propylene glycol, butanediol and pentanediol.
Preferably, the thickener comprises carrageenan and hydroxyethyl cellulose, both in combination.
Preferably, the solubilizer is CO 40.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the aurora essence lotion, which comprises the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps: and mixing part of polyol and methyl ester, adding the mixture into an oil phase pot, heating to 80-85 ℃, and stirring to dissolve to obtain a mixture A.
Step two: the perfume is first solubilized with a solubilizer.
Step three: and (3) adding deionized water into the water phase pot, dispersing the thickener with the rest polyol, adding, heating to 80-85 ℃, homogenizing for 3-5 minutes, adding the humectant, stirring for dissolving, adding the mixture A dissolved in the step one, stirring and cooling to obtain a mixture AB.
Step four: and (3) adding nano ceramide into the mixture AB obtained in the third step, keeping the temperature, stirring for 5-8 minutes, adding the plant anti-allergic agent and the solubilized essence, stirring, cooling to below 40 ℃, finally adding the tridecapeptide-1, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
Preferably, the third step is carried out by stirring and cooling to 45-50 ℃.
Preferably, in the fourth step, the nano ceramide is added, and the temperature is kept at 45-50 ℃.
Preferably, the stirring speed in the first step, the third step and the fourth step is 300-350 r/min, and the homogenizing speed in the third step is 3000 r/min.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) the invention adopts nano lipidosome ceramide which is easy to permeate and absorb, and is compounded with glycerol glucoside, hydrolyzed collagen and tridecapeptide-1, the absorption of the skin to the ceramide and various nutrient substances is improved through the penetration promoting capability of the tridecapeptide-1, the vitality and the newly-existing metabolic function of cells are strongly activated by the glycerol glucoside which is a natural plant activator, the absorption and the utilization of the ceramide are promoted, the hydrolyzed collagen supplements the nutrients required by the skin, the skin barrier is quickly repaired, the skin desquamation and the skin rhagadia phenomenon are improved, the skin aging is continued, and the skin is comprehensively improved.
(2) The invention adopts a novel synthetic ceramide-3 with a structure similar to that of natural ceramide as a raw material, adopts nano ceramide with a grain size smaller than 30nm developed by a Nano Delivery System (NDS), well solves the problems of solubility and applicability, enables the nano ceramide to be stably wrapped in a nano carrier and to be synergistically acted with natural skin stratum corneum components such as phospholipid, cholesterol, stearic acid and the like, and repairs barriers.
(3) Meanwhile, the invention also utilizes the refraction effect of the ceramide inclusion and the polyalcohol on light, and the product presents flowing illusion pearly luster through reasonable matching of raw materials and a special production process, thereby bringing novel visual perception to consumers.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph of the change in TEWL values of the left face of a volunteer using examples 1-4 for 15 consecutive days;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the change in TEWL values on the right face of a volunteer who used the control for 15 consecutive days.
Detailed Description
To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention is further illustrated by the following examples. It is to be understood that the following examples are only a few, but not all, of the present invention; it should be understood that the embodiments of the present invention are only for illustrating the technical effects of the present invention, and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention.
The aurora essence water provided by the embodiment of the invention comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure BDA0003343166200000041
Figure BDA0003343166200000051
in the embodiment of the invention, the nano ceramide is ceramide-3.
The humectant is one or more of amino acid humectant, oat glucan and trehalose; the polyhydric alcohol is one or more of hexanediol, propylene glycol, butanediol and pentanediol; the thickening agent comprises carrageenan and hydroxyethyl cellulose; the solubilizer is CO 40.
The preparation method of the aurora essence water in the embodiment of the invention comprises the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps: and mixing part of polyol and methyl ester, adding the mixture into an oil phase pot, heating to 80-85 ℃, and stirring to dissolve to obtain a mixture A.
Step two: the perfume is first solubilized with a solubilizer.
Step three: and adding deionized water into the water phase pot, dispersing the thickener with the rest polyol, adding, heating to 80-85 ℃, homogenizing for 3-5 minutes, adding the humectant, stirring for dissolving, adding the mixture A dissolved in the first step, stirring, and cooling to 45-50 ℃ to obtain a mixture AB.
Step four: on the basis of the mixture AB obtained in the third step, adding nano ceramide, keeping the temperature at 45-50 ℃, stirring for 5-8 minutes, adding the plant anti-allergic agent and the solubilized essence, stirring, cooling to below 40 ℃, finally adding the tridecapeptide-1, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
1. The compositions of the essence water in the inventive examples 1 to 6 and the comparative example 1 are shown in the following table 1; of these, example 2 was free of glycerol glucoside, example 3 was free of tridecapeptide-1, example 4 was free of hydrolyzed collagen, and example 1 was free of glycerol glucoside, nanoceramide, and tridecapeptide-1, respectively, relative to example 1.
Figure BDA0003343166200000061
TABLE 1
(1) As shown in table 1, the method for preparing the aurora water of example 5 includes the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps: and mixing part of polyol and methyl ester, adding the mixture into an oil phase pot, heating to 80-85 ℃, and stirring to dissolve to obtain a mixture A.
Step two: the perfume is first solubilized with a solubilizer.
Step three: and (2) adding deionized water into the water phase pot, dispersing the thickener with the rest polyol, adding, heating to 80-85 ℃, homogenizing at 3000 rpm for 3-5 minutes, adding the humectant, stirring for dissolving, adding the mixture A dissolved in the step one, stirring, and cooling to 40 ℃ to obtain a mixture AB.
Step four: on the basis of the mixture AB obtained in the third step, adding nano ceramide, keeping the temperature at 40 ℃, stirring for 5-8 minutes, adding the plant anti-allergic agent and the solubilized essence, stirring, cooling to below 40 ℃, finally adding the tridecapeptide-1, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
When the material body is compared with examples 1 to 4, the material body is turbid, and pearlescence is not obvious.
(2) As shown in table 1, the method for preparing the aurora water of example 6 includes the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps: and mixing part of polyol and methyl ester, adding the mixture into an oil phase pot, heating to 80-85 ℃, and stirring to dissolve to obtain a mixture A.
Step two: the perfume is first solubilized with a solubilizer.
Step three: and adding deionized water into the water phase pot, dispersing the thickener with the rest polyol, adding, heating to 80-85 ℃, homogenizing for 3-5 minutes, adding the humectant, stirring for dissolving, adding the mixture A dissolved in the first step, stirring, and cooling to 52 ℃ to obtain a mixture AB.
Step four: on the basis of the mixture AB obtained in the third step, adding nano ceramide, keeping the temperature at 52 ℃, stirring for 5-8 minutes, adding the plant anti-allergic agent and the solubilized essence, stirring, cooling to below 40 ℃, finally adding the tridecapeptide-1, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
Comparing the material body with the example 1 to the example 4, the pearlescence of the material body disappears.
2. The skin barrier function is one of important physiological functions of the skin, the barrier function is poor, skin moisture is easy to lose, and the skin is dry, transdermal moisture Loss (TEWL) is an important parameter for evaluating the skin barrier function, and the TEWL is a condition that moisture is lost by measuring a Water vapor pressure gradient on the surface of the skin, so that the Water permeation barrier of the skin is reflected. When barrier function is impaired, the TEWL value increases; conversely, TEWL decreases, suggesting barrier repair.
Selecting 20 allergic skin volunteers with mild dermatitis, dividing into 4 groups of 5 persons, using the products prepared in examples 1, 2, 3 and 4 in groups 1, 2, 3 and 4; after cleansing the skin in the morning and evening, the skin was treated with the product of example on the left and the product of comparative example on the right for 15 consecutive days, and the skin moisture TEWL values were measured using a skin moisture loss meter (Tewameter TM300) from the german CK company after the products were used on days 1, 8 and 15, respectively, and the measurements were performed under constant temperature and humidity conditions, and the results are shown in table 2:
Figure BDA0003343166200000081
TABLE 2
Combining the data in table 2 above and referring to fig. 1-2;
as can be seen from FIG. 1, the TEWL level of the skin of the left face was significantly reduced after the left face of the group 1 volunteers was tested on days 8 and 15 after the product prepared in example 1 was continuously applied to the left face; the skin TEWL values were reduced but the effect was not apparent when tested on days 8 and 15 after continuous application of the products from examples 2, 3 and 4 to the left face of volunteers in groups 2, 3 and 4, respectively.
As can be seen from FIG. 2, the TEWL values of the skin were substantially unchanged after the continuous use of the products prepared in the comparative examples on the 8 th and 15 th days in the right face of the volunteers of groups 1, 2, 3 and 4.
In conclusion, the skin repairing liquid is compounded by adopting the nano ceramide, the glycerol glucoside, the tridecapeptide-1 and the hydrolyzed collagen, so that the TEWL value of the skin can be effectively reduced, and the skin repairing liquid has a good skin barrier repairing effect.
Nano ceramide: the skin research result shows that the ceramide is the main component in the skin cuticle lipid, accounts for about 50 percent of the content of the epidermis cuticle lipid, plays a key role in the physiological function of the cuticle, can repair the skin barrier function, plays a role in protecting, moisturizing and moistening the skin, and also has the functions of resisting aging and resisting allergy. The skin care product containing ceramide is used for external use to achieve the purpose of preventing allergic dermatosis and the effect of inhibiting melanin brown spots. The invention takes a novel synthetic ceramide-3 with a structure similar to that of natural ceramide as a raw material, adopts nano ceramide with a grain size smaller than 30nm developed by a nano transmission system (NDS), well solves the problems of solubility and applicability, enables the ceramide to be stably wrapped in a nano carrier and to be synergistically acted with natural skin stratum corneum components such as phospholipid, cholesterol, stearic acid and the like, and repairs barriers.
Glycerol glucoside: the water-soluble multifunctional humectant is a water-soluble multifunctional humectant which is derived from whole plants, is a main active ingredient of the millettia speciosa, is essential for the survival of the millettia speciosa in a long-term drought environment, and enables the millettia speciosa to start to die and survive-it can activate cells in the long-term drought environment (up to 50 years) and endow the millettia with new growth; the glycerol glucoside is a natural cell activator, has strong activation and regeneration capacity, and has the effects of enhancing cell activity and promoting metabolism, activating regenerated skin cells (increasing the cell activity of aged cells by 170%), enhancing the oxidation resistance (SOD) (increasing the content of SOD1 in the aged cells and the production amount of SOD1 is 280% higher than that of untreated cells), accelerating the synthesis of type I collagen precursors in the aged cells (increasing the production amount of collagen in the aged cells by 36%), promoting the expression of aquaporin AQP3 in keratinocytes, increasing skin moisture retention, elasticity, smoothness and skin thickness (in vivo experiments), reducing skin redness, resisting erythra (in vivo experiments), accelerating wound healing, tissue repair and the like.
Tridecapeptide-1: binding to epidermal keratinocytes, opening the skin's channels by regulating the expression of ATP1B1 protein, which are reversible, and allowing biomolecules to enter the skin, the skin barrier being restored with the drop-back of the expression level of ATP1B 1; meanwhile, the tridecapeptide-1 can also carry biomolecules to permeate through the skin through a hair follicle pathway.
Hydrolyzing collagen: is a natural biological product, is rich in various bioactive substances such as amino acids, polypeptides and the like which are necessary for human metabolism, particularly rich in hydroxyproline (> 12%) which is necessary for cartilage, skin and hair metabolism, and is the main material basis of connective tissues.
The embodiments of the present invention are not limited to the above-mentioned embodiments, and any other changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications which do not depart from the spirit and principle of the present invention should be construed as equivalents thereof, and they are included in the scope of the present invention.

Claims (9)

1. An aurora essence lotion, which is characterized in that: the aurora essence water comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
Figure FDA0003343166190000011
2. the aurora water according to claim 1, characterized in that: the humectant is one or more of amino acid humectant, oat glucan and trehalose.
3. The aurora water according to claim 1, characterized in that: the polyhydric alcohol is one or more of hexanediol, propylene glycol, butanediol and pentanediol.
4. The aurora water according to claim 1, characterized in that: the thickener includes carrageenan and hydroxyethyl cellulose.
5. The aurora water according to claim 1, characterized in that: the solubilizer is CO 40.
6. A method for preparing the aurora water according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which comprises the following steps:
the method comprises the following steps: and mixing part of polyol and methyl ester, adding the mixture into an oil phase pot, heating to 80-85 ℃, and stirring to dissolve to obtain a mixture A.
Step two: the perfume is first solubilized with a solubilizer.
Step three: and (3) adding deionized water into the water phase pot, dispersing the thickener with the rest polyol, adding, heating to 80-85 ℃, homogenizing for 3-5 minutes, adding the humectant, stirring for dissolving, adding the mixture A dissolved in the step one, stirring and cooling to obtain a mixture AB.
Step four: and (3) adding nano ceramide into the mixture AB obtained in the third step, keeping the temperature, stirring for 5-8 minutes, adding the plant anti-allergic agent and the solubilized essence, stirring, cooling to below 40 ℃, finally adding the tridecapeptide-1, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
7. The method for preparing aurora water according to claim 6, characterized in that: and step three, stirring and cooling to 45-50 ℃.
8. The method for preparing aurora water according to claim 6, characterized in that: and in the fourth step, adding nano ceramide, and keeping the temperature at 45-50 ℃.
9. The method for preparing aurora water according to claim 6, characterized in that: the stirring speed in the first step, the third step and the fourth step is 300-350 r/min, and the homogenizing speed in the third step is 3000 r/min.
CN202111314516.XA 2021-11-08 2021-11-08 Aurora essence lotion and preparation method thereof Pending CN113876622A (en)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2003064458A2 (en) * 2002-02-01 2003-08-07 Institut Europeen De Biologie Cellulaire Novel peptide derivatives, preparation and therapeutic and cosmetic application thereof
CN101522708A (en) * 2006-10-10 2009-09-02 凯尔杰有限公司 Peptides having activities of epidermal growth factor and its uses
CN108514541A (en) * 2018-05-10 2018-09-11 广州珈源日化用品有限公司 One kind repairing skin barrier Essence containing oligopeptides, ceramide and glycosylglycerol
CN108635275A (en) * 2018-07-27 2018-10-12 北京化工大学 A kind of antioxidant composition and its application in Essence
CN110302107A (en) * 2019-06-14 2019-10-08 广州市白云莱茵化妆品厂 A kind of polypeptide complex repairs Essence and preparation method thereof
CN112402342A (en) * 2020-12-01 2021-02-26 广州雅纯化妆品制造有限公司 Anti-aging cosmetic additive and preparation method thereof

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2003064458A2 (en) * 2002-02-01 2003-08-07 Institut Europeen De Biologie Cellulaire Novel peptide derivatives, preparation and therapeutic and cosmetic application thereof
CN101522708A (en) * 2006-10-10 2009-09-02 凯尔杰有限公司 Peptides having activities of epidermal growth factor and its uses
CN108514541A (en) * 2018-05-10 2018-09-11 广州珈源日化用品有限公司 One kind repairing skin barrier Essence containing oligopeptides, ceramide and glycosylglycerol
CN108635275A (en) * 2018-07-27 2018-10-12 北京化工大学 A kind of antioxidant composition and its application in Essence
CN110302107A (en) * 2019-06-14 2019-10-08 广州市白云莱茵化妆品厂 A kind of polypeptide complex repairs Essence and preparation method thereof
CN112402342A (en) * 2020-12-01 2021-02-26 广州雅纯化妆品制造有限公司 Anti-aging cosmetic additive and preparation method thereof

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