CN111012713A - Whitening composition and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Whitening composition and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111012713A
CN111012713A CN201911416249.XA CN201911416249A CN111012713A CN 111012713 A CN111012713 A CN 111012713A CN 201911416249 A CN201911416249 A CN 201911416249A CN 111012713 A CN111012713 A CN 111012713A
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whitening
whitening composition
peg
care product
skin care
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CN111012713B (en
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崔英云
罗财通
李传茂
张楚标
曾伟丹
张伟杰
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GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICAL PLANT
Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd
Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
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GUANGZHOU BAIYUN LIANJIA FINE CHEMICAL PLANT
Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd
Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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  • Biotechnology (AREA)
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  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a whitening composition and a preparation method and application thereof. The whitening composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: emblic leafflower fruit extract: 0.01-10%, soybean extract: 0.01-20%, aloesin: 0.01% -5%, ascorbic acid ethyl ether: 0.3% -5%, nicotinamide: 0.5 to 20 percent. The whitening composition can play a role in balancing whitening, namely comprehensively considering all links of skin whitening. Specifically, the compound can play a role in each link of melanin generation, melanin reduction, melanin transfer blocking, protease activation receptor-2 channel induction blocking, melanosome phagocytosis by keratinocytes, melanin transfer reduction, melanin entering stratum corneum prevention and the like.

Description

Whitening composition and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to a whitening composition and a preparation method and application thereof, belonging to the field of cosmetics.
Background
Because of the traditional beauty concept of 'one white covering three uglas', the pursuit of whitening by Asian women never stops just like the pursuit of brightness by human beings, blusher is almost a necessary product of each adult female, and is a general powder family of forests such as concealer, foundation, loose powder, makeup powder, pressed powder and the like, and the powder whitening and the powder decoration are too flat. In fact, whitening is just like treating diseases, the symptoms are not treated as the root causes, and only the melanin, the main cause of influencing whitening, is good in conditioning the inherent skin. Melanin is the most dominant determinant. Melanocytes in the skin produce melanin, melanin granules are transferred to keratinocytes through melanocyte dendrites, and the melanin granules transferred to the keratinocytes ascend to the stratum corneum along with epidermal cells, thereby affecting the color of the skin or forming color spots, and finally being excreted along with the shedding of the stratum corneum.
At present, a general skin whitening agent mainly achieves the whitening effect by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase or blocking the synthetic pathway of the tyrosinase for generating melanin, thereby reducing the production of the melanin. The skin whitening agent mainly comprises arbutin, hydroquinone and derivatives thereof, kojic acid and derivatives thereof, ascorbic acid ethyl ether and derivatives thereof, nicotinamide, tranexamic acid, benzenediol and derivatives thereof and the like. However, the above skin whitening agents cannot comprehensively consider various links of skin whitening, such as: from the melanogenesis predisposing factor, the melanogenesis process to the final melanin transport and excretion process.
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
In view of the above prior art, the present invention provides a whitening composition, a preparation method and use thereof. The whitening composition can realize safe whitening, has low irritation, and can achieve the whitening effect by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, resisting oxidation, eliminating free radicals, inhibiting melanin transfer, increasing the metabolism of skin and other mechanisms.
Means for solving the problems
The invention provides a whitening composition, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
emblic leafflower fruit extract: 0.01 to 10 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
soybean extract: 0.01 to 20 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
aloesin: 0.01 to 5 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
ascorbic acid ethyl ether: 0.3 to 5 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
nicotinamide: 0.5 to 20 percent.
According to the whitening composition, the addition amount of the emblic leafflower fruit extract is 0.01-8%, preferably 0.01-5%, and more preferably 0.05-1% in percentage by mass of the whitening composition.
The addition amount of the soybean extract is 0.01-15%, preferably 0.01-10%, and more preferably 0.1-5%.
The addition amount of the aloesin is 0.01-4%, preferably 0.01-3%, and more preferably 0.1-2%.
The addition amount of the ascorbic acid ethyl ether is 0.3-4%, preferably 0.5-3%, and more preferably 1-3%.
The addition amount of the nicotinamide is 0.5-15%, preferably 0.5-10%, and more preferably 1-5%.
Emblic extract is a substance derived from the fruit of emblic (Phyllanthus emblica) which is produced in the tropical southeast Asia. Phyllanthus emblica extract is a chelating agent for iron and copper, and at 1% concentration, it can reduce UV-induced skin pigmentation and possibly inhibit tyrosinase and its expression.
In some embodiments of the invention, the extract of emblic leafflower fruit is obtained from biotechnology limited, Nanjing Zealand. The addition amount of the emblic extract is 0.01-10%, preferably 0.01-8%, more preferably 0.01-5%, and even more preferably 0.05-1% by mass of the whitening composition. If the addition amount of the emblic extract is less than 0.01 percent, the synergistic whitening effect is not obvious; if the amount of the extract of emblic leafflower fruit is more than 10%, the cost is high and the effect of the excess extract of emblic leafflower fruit cannot be further increased.
Soybean extract is a plant ingredient that is currently widely used in facial skin care products to improve skin tone uniformity. Natural soybean contains small molecular protein Bowman-Birk trypsin inhibitor (BBI) and Soybean Trypsin Inhibitor (STI). The action mechanism of soybean extract is different from hydroquinone, kojic acid or guanadine. STI interferes with the pathway of protease-activated receptor-2 (PAR-2), reduces the amount of melanosomes phagocytosed by keratinocytes, reduces the delivery of melanin, and achieves the effect of correcting abnormal pigmentation.
The soybean extract can be obtained by purchasing, or extracting with cold water. Specifically, the preparation method of the soybean extract comprises the following steps: grinding the weighed soybeans into powder, and extracting with cold water twice, wherein the amount of the cold water is 10-15 times for 1 time, 1-3 hours, 8-12 times for 2 times, and 0.5-2.5 hours. Filtering and concentrating the filtrate, then adding HCl to adjust the pH value to 2-3, carrying out water bath at the constant temperature of 60-100 ℃ for 20-40 min, removing the supernatant, adding distilled water and stirring uniformly. Then adding 20-60% of sodium hydroxide, adjusting the pH value to 6-8, then adding 200-300 mL of 70-90% ethanol, and dissolving after water bath for 5-20 min at 70-90 ℃. And (3) filtering, adding HCl into the filtrate to adjust the pH value to 1-2, carrying out water bath at 50-70 ℃ for 20-40 min, standing, removing supernatant, washing twice by using distilled water, washing twice by using 85% ethanol, carrying out suction filtration, and drying under reduced pressure to obtain the soybean extract.
Specifically, in some embodiments of the present application, the soy extract may be prepared by: grinding weighed 100g of soybean into powder, and extracting twice with 12 times of cold water for 2 hours at the 1 st time; the 2 nd time is 10 times, and the time is 1.5 hours. Filtering with non-woven fabrics, concentrating the filtrate to 530mL, adding concentrated HCl to adjust the pH value to 2-3, keeping the temperature in a water bath for 30min, precipitating, removing the supernatant, adding 250mL of distilled water, stirring uniformly, adding 40% sodium hydroxide, adjusting the pH value to 7, adding 250mL of 85% ethanol, carrying out water bath at 80 ℃ for 10min, dissolving, and carrying out suction filtration. Adjusting pH of the filtrate to 1-2 with concentrated HCl, carrying out water bath at 60 ℃ for 30min, standing to remove supernatant, washing with 500mL of distilled water twice, washing with 500mL of 85% ethanol twice, carrying out suction filtration, and drying under reduced pressure to obtain a soybean extract (vacuum drying at 60 ℃).
In some embodiments of the present invention, the added amount of the soybean extract is 0.01% to 20%, preferably 0.01% to 15%, more preferably 0.01% to 10%, even more preferably 0.01% to 8%, and even more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass of the whitening composition. If the addition amount of the soybean extract is less than 0.01%, the effect is not obvious; if the amount of the soybean extract added is more than 20%, the cost is high, and the whitening effect of the extra soybean extract cannot be further increased.
Aloesin is a hydroxy-paraoxone derivative isolated from natural aloe vera that inhibits tyrosinase activity at concentrations that do not produce cytotoxicity and, by inference, competitively inhibits dopa oxidation.
In some embodiments of the present invention, the aloesin is added in an amount of 0.01% to 5%, preferably 0.01% to 4%, more preferably 0.01% to 3%, and even more preferably 0.1% to 2% by mass of the whitening composition. If the addition amount of aloesin is less than 0.01%, the synergistic whitening effect is not obvious; if the amount of aloesin added is more than 5%, the cost is increased accordingly, and the synergistic whitening effect cannot be further increased.
The whitening mechanism of ascorbyl ethyl ether in some embodiments of the invention is mainly characterized by the following aspects:
(1) ascorbic acid is extremely easy to oxidize, is not easy to be really absorbed by skin and has low skin utilization rate. Compared with ascorbic acid, the ascorbic acid ethyl ether can easily penetrate through the stratum corneum to enter the dermis layer, and is decomposed by biological enzyme to play a role of VC after entering the skin, so that the utilization rate of VC is improved, and better freckle removing and whitening effects are achieved.
(2) The ascorbic acid ethyl ether can inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin formation, and reduce melanin to be colorless, thereby effectively lightening spots and whitening skin.
(3) After entering the dermis, the ascorbyl ethyl ether directly participates in the synthesis of collagen to repair the activity of skin cells, so that the collagen is increased, the skin becomes full and elastic, and the skin is fine and smooth.
In some embodiments of the present invention, the ascorbic acid ethyl ether is added in an amount of 0.3% to 5%, preferably 0.3% to 4%, more preferably 0.5% to 3%, and even more preferably 1% to 3% by mass of the whitening composition. If the addition amount of the ascorbic acid ethyl ether is less than 0.3 percent, the effect is not obvious; if the addition amount of the ascorbic acid ethyl ether is more than 5%, the cost is high, and the product is easy to discolor and unstable.
The whitening mechanism of niacinamide in some embodiments of the present invention is mainly embodied by the following aspects:
(1) nicotinamide can accelerate metabolism and promote the exfoliation of melanocytes containing melanin. The nicotinamide has small molecules, can be directly absorbed by cells, can keep the energy balance of the skin, can recover the energy of the cells and accelerate the synthesis of collagen, thereby avoiding the hyperpigmentation of the melanin caused by low oil content and thin cuticle of the skin.
(2) Nicotinamide can act on melanin already produced, reducing its transfer to the surface cells. Since only melanin is transferred to keratinocytes, the skin is blackened. Nicotinamide can be used as the generated melanin, and effectively inhibits the transfer of about 35-40% of the melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes, thereby reducing excessive pigmentation.
(3) Nicotinamide also promotes the synthesis of epidermal proteins and improves skin texture. Nicotinamide can promote the synthesis of epidermal protein and increase skin moisture content.
Thus, niacinamide in some embodiments of the present invention primarily acts to accelerate metabolism, promote the exfoliation of melanocyte-containing keratinocytes, reduce the transfer of melanin to epidermal cells, and promote the synthesis of epidermal proteins.
In some embodiments of the present invention, the amount of niacinamide added is 0.5% to 20%, preferably 0.5% to 15%, more preferably 0.5% to 10%, and even more preferably 1% to 5% by weight of the whitening composition. If the addition amount of nicotinamide is less than 0.5%, the exfoliation of melanin-containing keratinocytes cannot be promoted, and the transfer of melanin to epidermal cells cannot be reduced; if the amount of nicotinamide added is more than 20%, not only the exfoliation of melanin keratinocytes cannot be further improved, but also the stability of the product is affected.
The whitening composition further comprises a humectant which is selected from one or a combination of more than two of ethanol, glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, trehalose, xylitol, glycerol polyether-26, β -glucan, methyl glucitol polyether-20, methyl glucitol polyether-10, erythrulose, biogum glycocoll-1, oat β -glucan, acetyl chitosamine, polyethylene glycol water-soluble grease, water-soluble silicone oil and sodium hyaluronate.
In one embodiment, the polyethylene glycol is selected from one or more of PEG-8, PEG-32, PEG-200, PEG-300, and PEG-400.
In one embodiment, the water-soluble oil is selected from one or more of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, babassu seed oil glyceryl polyether-8 esters, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides, and hydrolyzed jojoba esters.
In one embodiment, the water-soluble silicone oil is selected from one or more of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane, PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane.
In one embodiment, the humectant is selected from a combination of one or more of glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol.
In one embodiment, the humectant is added in an amount of 0.01 to 20%, preferably 8 to 15%.
The whitening composition according to the present invention further comprises a fluid regulator selected from the group consisting of: carbomer, xanthan gum, sclerotium rolfsii gum, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, and sodium polyacrylate.
In one embodiment, the fluid regulator is selected from hydroxyethylcellulose.
In one embodiment, the addition amount of the fluid regulator is 0.01-3%.
The whitening composition according to the present invention further comprises a pH adjusting agent selected from the group consisting of: one or more of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, and arginine.
In one embodiment, the amount of the pH regulator added is 0 to 2%, preferably 0.001 to 2%.
The whitening composition according to the present invention further comprises a preservative selected from the group consisting of: one or more of alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate compounds, p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, methylparaben, sorbitan caprylate, benzoic acid and sodium benzoate.
In one embodiment, the alkyl paraben compound comprises one or more of methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, and isobutyl paraben.
The whitening composition further comprises one or more of a free radical scavenger, a chelating agent, an antioxidant, a film forming agent, a stabilizer, a essence and a pigment, and preferably, the stabilizer is one or more of sodium chloride, magnesium chloride and magnesium sulfate.
In one embodiment, the chelating agent is selected from one or a combination of two of EDTA-2Na, EDTA-4 Na.
The invention also provides an application of the whitening composition in a skin care product.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition is added to the skin care product in an amount of 1% to 30%; preferably, the addition amount is 2% -20%; more preferably, from 3% to 15%; more preferably, it is 3.9% to 13.6%.
According to the use of the present invention, the skin care product comprises one or more of an aqueous type skin care product, a gel type skin care product, an emulsion type skin care product or a cream type skin care product.
In some embodiments, the aqueous-based skin care product comprises: one or more of whitening water, whitening essence and whitening mask; the gel-type skin care product comprises: one or more of whitening essence, whitening gel and whitening gel-shaped sleep mask; the emulsion type skin care product comprises: whitening emulsion; the cream type skin care product includes: a whitening cream.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening composition, which comprises the step of mixing the components of the whitening composition.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The whitening composition disclosed by the invention is prepared by selecting mild and high-safety raw materials, and the interaction between the emblic leafflower fruit extract, the soybean extract, the aloesin, the ascorbic acid ethyl ether and the nicotinamide finally achieves the effects of synergistic whitening and efficient whitening. Compared with a single whitening agent, the whitening agent used in the invention has obviously less dosage under the condition of the same whitening effect.
The whitening composition can play a role in balancing whitening, namely comprehensively considering all links of skin whitening. Specifically, it acts on various links such as a melanin production-inducing factor (inflammation), a melanin production process, a melanin transfer process blocking, a melanin phagocytosis inhibition by keratinocytes, and a melanin entry prevention.
In the invention, the components of the whitening composition are respectively present in each path of skin blackening and are mutually synergistic, so that a better whitening effect can be still realized under the condition of realizing lower single component dosage, and the adverse reaction is lower.
The whitening composition can also obviously improve the brightness and the evenness of skin color of skin, eliminate the problems of dark and dull skin color, spots, roughness and the like, and can make the skin restore the healthy skin color state of white, tender and uniform skin.
Detailed Description
Various exemplary embodiments, features and aspects of the invention will be described in detail below. The word "exemplary" is used exclusively herein to mean "serving as an example, embodiment, or illustration. Any embodiment described herein as "exemplary" is not necessarily to be construed as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments.
Furthermore, in the following detailed description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a better understanding of the present invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced without some of these specific details. In other instances, methods, means, devices and steps which are well known to those skilled in the art have not been described in detail so as not to obscure the invention.
Examples
Embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to examples, but it will be understood by those skilled in the art that the following examples are only illustrative of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples, in which specific conditions are not specified, were conducted under conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available.
Examples 1 to 5
Whitening essences of examples 1 to 5 were prepared according to the contents of the components in table 1 below, based on 100g of the total weight.
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0002351261050000091
The preparation method of the whitening essence of the above embodiments 1 to 5 includes the following steps:
1) heating deionized water, EDTA-2Na, propylene glycol, glycerol, dipropylene glycol and hydroxyethyl cellulose to 80 ℃, stirring for dissolving completely, and keeping the temperature and stirring for 20 minutes;
2) cooling to 40 deg.C under stirring, adding whitening composition fructus Phyllanthi extract, semen glycines extract, Aloe bitter essence, ascorbic acid ethyl ether, nicotinamide and antiseptic, stirring and dissolving completely;
3) and (6) checking to be qualified and discharging.
Comparative examples 1 to 5
According to the contents of the components in the following table 2, the whitening essence of comparative examples 1 to 5 was prepared according to the preparation methods of examples 1 to 5 by total weight of 100 g.
The other components of the whitening essence of comparative examples 1-5 and their specific weights, except for the components in table 2, were prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0002351261050000101
Comparative examples 6 to 15
Whitening essences of comparative examples 6 to 15 were prepared according to the preparation methods of examples 1 to 5 in accordance with the contents of the components in table 3 below by total weight of 100 g.
The other components of the whitening essence of comparative examples 6 to 15 and their specific weights, except for the components in table 3, were the same as in example 1.
TABLE 3
Figure BDA0002351261050000102
Test of whitening Effect
1. Experimental methods
210 subjects with darker facial skin were screened and divided into 21 groups and tested using the whitening creams of examples 1-5 of the present invention, comparative examples 1-15 and a commercially available whitening essence (alleged to contain 2% of a hyaluronic acid) respectively. Before trial use of the product, the facial skin is subjected to melanin and color difference data acquisition and facial image analysis test, the data is used as the background value of the skin, and the product is continuously used for 4 weeks. Data collection was performed at week 1, week 2, and week 4, respectively. The skin color difference test probe and the multifunctional skin test system (CL400 and MPA6, Germany CK) and the skin red melanin tester and test probe (Mexameter MX18, Germany CK company) are used for evaluating the changes of skin brightness (brightness) and skin melanin content before and after the cosmetic (and the cosmetic effective components) is used by a subject, so that the whitening effect of the cosmetic (or the effective components) is determined.
2. Evaluation index
2.1 Melanin content MI value of skin
Based on the principle of spectral absorption (RGB), the content of melanin in the skin is determined by measuring the amount of radiation after illumination of a specific wavelength on the skin of a human body. The measurement range of the instrument is 0-999, and the higher the measurement value is, the higher the melanin content in the skin is.
2.2 skin Brightness L value
The lightness L value is used to characterize white balance, and the larger the L value, the more white the color is, and conversely, the more black the color is.
3. Test results
3.1 skin Melanin content MI value
△MI=Tn-T0
In the formula, Tn-the melanin content of the test area is a time-varying value;
T0-starting value of melanin content of the test area.
T0、TnCharacterizing melanin per unit area; the larger the value, the darker the skin color.
TABLE 4 one month skin melanin MI value test results using test products
Figure BDA0002351261050000131
Figure BDA0002351261050000141
In table 4, n is 0, 1, 2, 4.
As can be seen from Table 1, the subjects used the whitening essence of examples 1-5 in week 4 of the test period, the △ MI value of the skin melanin tended to decrease, and at week 1, week 2 and week 4, △ MI was lower than that of the whitening essence of comparative examples 1-5 and the commercially available whitening essence, and the skin melanin was significantly decreased, and the △ MI value of the whitening essence of the present invention was significantly better than that of comparative examples 1-15. △ MI of examples 1-5 exhibited a synergistic effect compared to △ MI value of comparative examples 1-15.
3.2 skin Brightness L value
△L*=tn-t0
In the formula, tn-the brightness of the test area varies with time;
t0-a starting value of the brightness of the test area.
TABLE 5 statistical results of skin brightness L before and after use of test products
Figure BDA0002351261050000151
Figure BDA0002351261050000161
In table 4, n is 0, 1, 2, 4.
As can be seen from Table 5, the skin brightness value of △ L is increased after the skin whitening essence of the invention is used by the subject within 4 weeks of the test, and the skin brightness values of the skin whitening essence of the invention are obviously different from those of the skin whitening essences of comparative examples 1 to 15 and some commercially available skin whitening essences at 1 week, 2 weeks and 4 weeks.
After 4 weeks of use, the subjects were subjected to a questionnaire for the whitening effect. The effect was evaluated using a 5-point scale, the evaluation values (5-point scale) were averaged and are shown in table 6 below.
TABLE 6
Figure BDA0002351261050000162
As can be seen from the results in table 6 above, the whitening composition of the present invention has better whitening effects than comparative examples 1 to 5 and some commercially available whitening essences.
Patch test
1. Experimental methods
1.1 test materials
The test substance: whitening essence of examples 1 to 5
Negative control: blank control
A spot tester: shanghai sanitation Material works Ltd. +140801
Testing an instrument: quantitative piston gun (Microman M100+ GILSON LCO5239), single channel liquid transfer device (Transferpette +08N33275)
2. Test method
Subject: a total of 30 subjects; the minimum age is 21 years, the maximum age is 35 years; mean age 29 ± 5.4 year old volunteers met the enrollment criteria.
The spot-sticking test method comprises the following steps: selecting a qualified spot tester, placing 0.020-0.025g (essence) of a test object in the spot tester by a closed spot test method, externally applying a medical adhesive tape to the back of the test object, removing the test object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions 0.5, 24 and 48 hours after the spot is removed, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for safety of cosmetics (2015 edition).
3. Basis of examination
The fifth part of the human skin closed patch test skin adverse reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition), and the detection results are shown in Table 5.
The specific reaction degree grading grade is as follows:
0 negative reaction;
1 suspicious reaction: only faint erythema;
2 weak positive reaction (erythema reaction): erythema, infiltration, edema, and possibly papules;
strong positive reaction (herpes reaction): erythema, infiltration, edema, papules, herpes, reaction which may be beyond the test area;
4 very strong positive reaction (fusogenic herpes reaction): erythema, severe infiltration, edema, fusional herpes, and response beyond the test area.
Table 7 closed patch test results for human skin of whitening essence of examples 1 to 5
Figure BDA0002351261050000181
From the above conclusions of table 7 it can be seen that: the result of the human skin closed patch test shows that 0 of 30 persons has positive reaction, and the test object does not cause adverse skin reaction to the batch of test objects according to the regulation in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition). The whitening essence prepared by the whitening composition has low irritation, and the market risks and problems of large irritation and skin allergy of whitening products in the market are solved.
The above description is only for the specific embodiments of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art can easily conceive of the changes or substitutions within the technical scope of the present invention, and all the changes or substitutions should be covered within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention shall be subject to the protection scope of the appended claims.

Claims (10)

1. The whitening composition is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
emblic leafflower fruit extract: 0.01 to 10 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
soybean extract: 0.01 to 20 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
aloesin: 0.01 to 5 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
ascorbic acid ethyl ether: 0.3 to 5 percent of the total weight of the mixture,
nicotinamide: 0.5 to 20 percent.
2. The whitening composition according to claim 1, wherein the emblic leafflower fruit extract is added in an amount of 0.01 to 8%, preferably 0.01 to 5%, more preferably 0.05 to 1% by mass of the whitening composition;
the addition amount of the soybean extract is 0.01-15%, preferably 0.01-10%, and more preferably 0.1-5%;
the adding amount of the aloesin is 0.01-4%, preferably 0.01-3%, and more preferably 0.1-2%;
the addition amount of the ascorbic acid ethyl ether is 0.3-4%, preferably 0.5-3%, and more preferably 1-3%;
the addition amount of the nicotinamide is 0.5-15%, preferably 0.5-10%, and more preferably 1-5%.
3. The whitening composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising a humectant selected from one or a combination of two or more of ethanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, trehalose, xylitol, glyceryl polyether-26, β -dextran, methyl glucitol polyether-20, methyl glucitol polyether-10, erythrulose, biogan-1, oat β -dextran, acetyl chitosamine, polyethylene glycols, water-soluble oils, water-soluble silicone oils, and sodium hyaluronate;
preferably, the polyethylene glycol is selected from one or more of PEG-8, PEG-32, PEG-200, PEG-300 and PEG-400;
preferably, the water-soluble grease is selected from one or more of PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, babassu seed oil glyceryl polyether-8 esters, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides and hydrolyzed jojoba esters;
preferably, the water-soluble silicone oil is selected from one or more of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane and PEG-12 polydimethylsiloxane;
preferably, the humectant is selected from one or more of glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol;
preferably, the addition amount of the humectant is 0.01-20%, and preferably 8-15%.
4. The whitening composition of claim 1, further comprising a fluid regulating agent selected from the group consisting of: carbomer, xanthan gum, sclerotium rolfsii gum, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, and sodium polyacrylate; preferably, the fluid regulator is selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethylcellulose;
preferably, the addition amount of the fluid regulator is 0.01-3%.
5. The whitening composition of claim 1, further comprising a pH adjusting agent selected from the group consisting of: one or more of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, and arginine;
preferably, the addition amount of the pH regulator is 0-2%, and preferably 0.001-2%.
6. The whitening composition of claim 1, further comprising a preservative selected from the group consisting of: one or more of alkyl p-hydroxybenzoate compounds, p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, methylparaben, sorbitan caprylate, benzoic acid and sodium benzoate; preferably one or the combination of more than two of phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin;
preferably, the alkyl paraben compound comprises one or more of methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben and isobutyl paraben.
7. The whitening composition of claim 1, further comprising one or a combination of more than two of a radical scavenger, a chelating agent, an antioxidant, a film former, a stabilizer, a fragrance, and a pigment; preferably, the stabilizer is selected from one or a combination of more than two of sodium chloride, magnesium chloride and magnesium sulfate; preferably, the chelating agent is selected from one or a combination of two of EDTA-2Na and EDTA-4 Na.
8. Use of a whitening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 in a skin care product; the addition amount of the whitening composition in the skin care product is 1% -30%; preferably, the addition amount is 2% -20%; more preferably, from 3% to 15%; more preferably, it is 3.9% to 13.6%.
9. Use according to claim 8, wherein the skin care product is selected from one or more of an aqueous-type skin care product, a gel-type skin care product, an emulsion-type skin care product or a cream-type skin care product; preferably, the water-based skin care product comprises: one or more of whitening water, whitening essence and whitening mask; the gel-type skin care product comprises: one or more of whitening essence, whitening gel and whitening gel-shaped sleep mask; the emulsion type skin care product comprises: whitening emulsion; the cream type skin care product includes: a whitening cream.
10. A method of preparing the whitening composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising the step of mixing the components of the whitening composition.
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CN113425663A (en) * 2021-08-18 2021-09-24 皖西学院 Preparation method of dendrobium flower soybean skin-beautifying mask

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