CN111743798B

CN111743798B - Multi-effect anti-aging skin care product and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111743798B
Application number: CN202010633519.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 王雪梅; 李奥丽; 张梦蝶; 吴恙; 高先亭; 候玉洁; 许静; 姜文姬; 陆嘉婧
Original assignee: Hefei Kadier Biotechnology Co ltd; Anhui University
Current assignee: Hefei Kadier Biotechnology Co ltd; Anhui University
Priority date: 2020-07-02
Filing date: 2020-07-02
Publication date: 2023-11-07
Anticipated expiration: 2040-07-02
Also published as: CN111743798A

Abstract

The invention relates to a multi-effect anti-aging skin care product and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics, wherein the composition for the multi-effect anti-aging product comprises inonotus obliquus extract, and the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product comprises the composition for the multi-effect anti-aging product; aiming at the measure of effectively delaying aging, the invention selects the efficacy raw materials from different angles, scientifically combines a plurality of active ingredients with moisturizing, whitening, antioxidation, anti-saccharification, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging effects according to the synergy principle, prepares the real multi-effect anti-aging skin cream, tests the sensory and physicochemical indexes of the product, researches the effects of whitening, antioxidation, anti-saccharification and the like, and carries out more comprehensive evaluation on the performance of the product through the trial of volunteers and the test of a skin tester.

Description

Multi-effect anti-aging skin care product and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a multi-effect anti-aging skin care product and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The outermost tissues of the human body are the skin, while the face is the most intuitive and most exposed part of the human body, and is also the part most susceptible to aging. In particular, the skin slowly begins to age with age, and this change is a hidden, progressive process, which is an inevitable natural law of the organism. With age, the skin appears to behave externally as follows: (1) Skin is loose and thin, often appears dry, scaling and losing luster; (2) the elasticity and the firmness are reduced; (3) wrinkles are formed and gradually increased and deepened; (4) skin sensitivity increases and pigments increase.

The external appearance of the skin aging is based on the internal aging changes of physiological and biochemical tissue structures of the skin.

The epidermis becomes thinner with age, and the thickness of the epidermis decreases by about one third from 20 to 80 years old. The epidermis becomes thinner, the content of natural moisturizing factors in the intercellular substance decreases, and the skin hydration decreases, resulting in dry and shiny skin. With age, melanin at sunlight exposure parts such as face, arm and forearm extension face tends to increase, and senile pigment spots often appear; lipid peroxidation forms lipid free radicals, which are also one of the causes of senile plaque formation.

The dermis is rich in connective tissue and contains macromolecular fibrous proteins as the main component. Wherein, the collagen accounts for about 70% of the dry weight of skin protein, mainly comprises type I and type III collagen, the elastin accounts for only 1% -3%, and the rest is mucin and structural glycoprotein. A structural glycoprotein named as fibronectin is a protein active substance widely existing in human body, and is mainly non-collagenous glycoprotein in intercellular matrix and basement membrane of skin, plays a central role in cell adhesion, can regulate cell polarity, differentiation and growth, is widely involved in the processes of skin cell migration, adhesion, proliferation, hemostasis, tissue repair and the like, and mobilizes immune cell systems to remove harmful substances at damaged tissues.

Changes in the composition of collagen are important in skin aging, and as age increases, the ratio of type III collagen to type I collagen increases; secondly, collagen forms cross-links with each other through collagen bonds. Collagen cross-linking takes two forms: one is cross-linking between amino acids (mainly histidinyl-alanine cross-links in aging); the other is cross-linking by non-enzymatic saccharification (also known as Maillard reaction). The crosslinked collagen fibers are recombined into stable fiber bundles, so that the structure becomes firm, the elasticity is lacked, and wrinkles are formed.

Elastin is the predominant fibrous protein that maintains skin elasticity, and its reduced content or denaturation is an important cause of skin elasticity reduction and wrinkle formation. With the age, under the action of elastase degradation, the vertical elastin fiber network structure in the nipple layer disappears, takes the shape of broken segments, and the distribution density is reduced. Normally, elastase is inhibited by an elastase inhibitor. With age, elastase inhibitor levels decrease and elastolytic degradation increases. Degradation of elastin content is more pronounced in aged skin caused by photo-acceleration.

The number of blood vessels in the dermis decreases with age and skin aging, and arteriosclerosis, thickening of the vessel wall, narrowing of the lumen and influence of blood circulation. In addition, since skin atrophy becomes thin, intradermal connective tissue is denatured, and supporting force to blood vessels in the skin is reduced, telangiectasia and varicose veins are seen in the skin of the aged. With age, sweat gland number is reduced, sebaceous gland is atrophic, function is degenerated, sweat and sebum secretion amount is reduced, and secretion composition is changed; the content of the keratinocyte matrix is also reduced; when the skin is aged, the content of hyaluronic acid is reduced due to degradation of hyaluronidase; together, these phenomena lead to a decrease in skin water retention, gradual deterioration of the skin's moisture barrier function, and an increase in the trans-dermal water loss rate TEWL.

The causes of skin aging are mainly divided into two types, one is endogenous aging, namely, the natural aging (physiological aging) process which occurs from molecules, cells to tissue organs and even the whole organism under the control of genes; the other is extrinsic aging, including photoaging and aging caused by environmental and lifestyle factors.

How to delay skin aging more effectively is highly paid attention to by expert scholars in the fields of anti-aging science, biology, medicine, cosmetology and other relevant disciplines, and research and development of skin anti-aging products with more remarkable effects becomes the most active field and the most hot topic of the society. Currently, important countermeasures for anti-aging include the following:

1. enhancing the proliferation and metabolism of skin. The essence of aging is the decline in tissue cell function. Thus, promotion of cellular activity, i.e., proliferative metabolism, and thus delay of aging of the skin is a key basic countermeasure.

2. Rebuilding the extracellular matrix of the skin. The extracellular matrix of skin tissue, mainly connective tissues such as collagen, elastin, mucopolysaccharide and structural glycoproteins, also includes lipids and certain natural moisturizing factors, which maintain the barrier function and hydration of the skin. Rebuilding the extracellular matrix structure, which is a constitution when it tends to be youthful in both quality and quantity, is also one of important countermeasures for skin aging.

3. Ultraviolet radiation resistant. Among the many external factors that promote skin aging, photoaging caused by ultraviolet light is the most dominant factor. Therefore, anti-ultraviolet and sun-screening are important measures for resisting skin aging.

4. Oxidation resistance. Antioxidant refers to the damaging effects of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generated by anti-ionic and low energy radiation on skin lipids, proteins, biofilms. At present, the actions of resisting and eliminating free radicals and preventing the damage of the free radicals are often realized through antioxidants. Antioxidants can be broadly divided into two categories: one type of non-enzyme antioxidant is commonly used vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin C, selenium compounds and the like; the other is enzyme antioxidant, and the most widely used is superoxide dismutase (SOD), and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-PX), catalase (CAT), glutathione reductase (GSSG-R), coenzyme Q10, etc.

5. Anti-saccharification. The saccharification reaction of the skin means that excessive sugar is released in blood all the day due to too slow metabolism of the skin, and the excessive sugar can be attached to collagen, so that the collagen is broken or disturbed, and the skin is rough and wrinkled. For this purpose, an active ingredient capable of reducing skin glycation can be added to the product.

6. And (3) crosslinking resistance. Crosslinking of collagen or elastic fibers in the dermis is one of the important causes of aging manifestations such as skin shrinkage and reduced elasticity. Many metal ions are a crosslinking agent, and therefore, citrate, sodium tartrate, EDTA (ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid) or the like is used to inhibit the crosslinking reaction by complexing the metal ions.

7. And (3) degradation resistance. The degradation has the consequence of causing structural damage to the skin and accelerated aging. By anti-degradation is meant against degradation of the skin extracellular matrix by various hydrolases. Such as against degradation of its substrates collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid by collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase, respectively.

8. Anti-allergic inflammation. In addition to light aging caused by ultraviolet light, the most important of the environmental factors is air pollution caused by carbon dioxide, smoke and exhaust gas discharged from automobiles. Skin damage caused by environmental pollution is common but not easily perceived and often appears as skin allergic inflammatory reactions. Repeated allergies, leading to skin aging. Thus, anti-allergic inflammation is also one of the important countermeasures for skin aging.

The good strategy for resisting allergic inflammation of the skin caused by harmful environment is to rebuild the self-protection barrier of the skin, including ultraviolet prevention, cleaning, nutrition and necessary nursing, and help the skin rebuild the protection barrier; secondly, an effective substance with antiallergic effect is used.

Thus, in order to effectively delay skin aging, measures that can be taken in anti-aging cosmetic formulations are: supplementing water and oil components, maintaining water and oil balance, repairing skin barrier function, inhibiting excessive free radical generation, promoting cell metabolism, supplementing skin collagen and elastin, preventing and repairing ultraviolet injury, inhibiting tyrosinase activity and melanin generation, inhibiting non-enzymatic glycosylation reaction, enhancing cell activity, promoting blood circulation, etc.

Although the skin care products with anti-aging effect are declared to be in full view in the market, the action mechanisms are different, and most products only start from a certain mechanism, and certain functional components are purposefully added or the functional components are not fully added, so that the comprehensive and effective anti-aging effect cannot be achieved.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the problems, the invention aims at effectively delaying aging, selects effective raw materials from different angles, scientifically combines a plurality of active ingredients with moisturizing, whitening, antioxidation, anti-saccharification, anti-inflammatory and tension-inducing effects according to a synergistic principle, provides an application of the inonotus obliquus extract in preparing a multi-effect skin anti-aging product, and provides a multi-effect skin anti-aging product containing the inonotus obliquus extract and a preparation method of the product, wherein the scheme is as follows:

according to the first aspect of the invention, the application of the inonotus obliquus extract in preparing a multi-effect skin anti-aging product is provided, and the inonotus obliquus extract is an inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract, and each liter of extract contains 100g of raw medicinal materials according to the consumption of the raw medicinal materials.

In another aspect, the invention provides a multi-effect anti-aging skin care product, which is characterized by comprising a phase A raw material, a phase B raw material and a phase C raw material, wherein:

the C-phase raw materials comprise the following raw materials in parts by weight: 8.0-12.0 parts of inonotus obliquus extract and 0.18-0.22 part of triethanolamine; the weight percentage of the C phase raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 8.18-12.22%, preferably 10.2%; the inonotus obliquus extract is inonotus Kong Junchun extract, and each liter of extract contains 100g of raw materials according to the consumption of the raw materials;

the phase A raw material comprises 4-5 parts by weight of dimethyl siloxane, 2-3 parts by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 5-6 parts by weight of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 3-4 parts by weight of cyclopenta-dimethyl siloxane, 1.8-2.2 parts by weight of polydimethylsiloxane and C16-18 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, 4.5-5.5 parts by weight of emulsifier and 0.015-0.025 part by weight of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; the emulsifier is selected from glycerol stearate, cetostearyl alcohol and a compound of sodium stearoyl lactylate; the weight percentage of the A phase raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 20.315-25.725%, preferably 23.02%;

the phase B raw material comprises 4-6 parts by weight of glycerin, 1.5-2.5 parts by weight of betaine, 20200.18-0.22 part by weight of carbomer, 0.04-0.06 part by weight of disodium edetate and 2.5-3.5 parts by weight of propylene glycol; the weight percentage of the anti-aging skin care product is 8.22-12.28%, preferably 10.25%.

Preferably, the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product further comprises a D-phase raw material, wherein the D-phase raw material comprises 0.08-0.12 weight part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.4-0.6 weight part of panthenol, 0.4-0.6 weight part of vitamin C ethyl ether, 0.4-0.6 weight part of vitamin E acetate, 0.4-0.6 weight part of nicotinamide and 18-22 weight parts of water; the weight percentage of the D phase raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 19.68-24.52%, preferably 22.1%.

Preferably, the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product further comprises an E-phase raw material, wherein the E-phase raw material comprises 1.8-2.2 parts by weight of six-ingredient white, 0.9-1.1 parts by weight of transdermal fibronectin, 1.8-2.2 parts by weight of polysaccharide skin tightening agent and 1 part by weight of PCG; the weight percentage of the E phase raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 5.4 to 6.6 percent, preferably 6 percent.

A multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 20.315-25.725% of A phase raw material, 8.22-12.28% of B phase raw material, 8.18-12.22% of C phase raw material, 19.68-24.52% of D phase raw material, 5.4-6.6% of E phase raw material and the balance of water;

the phase A raw material contains dimethyl siloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclopenta-dimethyl siloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, C16-18 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, emulsifying agent, 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol;

the B phase raw material contains glycerin, betaine, carbomer 2020, disodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate and propylene glycol;

the C phase material contains Inonotus obliquus extract and triethanolamine; the inonotus obliquus extract is inonotus Kong Junchun extract, and each liter of extract contains 100g of raw material D phase raw materials including sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, vitamin C ethyl ether, vitamin E acetate, nicotinamide and water according to the consumption amount of the raw material;

the E phase material contains six ingredients, namely whitening skin-tightening agent, transdermal fibronectin and polysaccharide skin tightening agent and PCG.

Preferably, the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is composed of the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 23.02% of phase A material, 10.25% of phase B material, 10.2% of phase C material, 22.1% of phase D material and 6% of phase E material, the balance being water.

In still another aspect, the invention provides a method for preparing any of the multiple-effect anti-aging skin care products, which is characterized by comprising the following steps:

(1) Mixing the phase A raw materials, and then heating, stirring and melting to obtain an oil phase mixture A; the carbomer 2020 in the B phase raw material is added into the other B phase raw material after being dispersed uniformly in water, and then is placed into a water bath kettle with the temperature of 75-80 ℃ to be stirred for 25-30min, so that solid matters are dissolved, and a mixture B is obtained;

(2) Mixing the inonotus obliquus extract and triethanolamine which are raw materials of the composition for the multi-effect anti-aging product to obtain a mixture C;

(3) And (3) adding the mixture B and the mixture C into the mixture A according to the percentage ratio, rapidly stirring and emulsifying for 25-30min at 75-80 ℃, then starting to reduce the temperature, and stopping stirring when the temperature is continuously reduced to 30-35 ℃.

Preferably, the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product further comprises the D-phase raw material and the E-phase raw material;

in the step (2), mixing the D-phase raw materials to obtain a mixture D; mixing the E-phase raw materials to obtain a mixture E

In the step (3), the mixture D and the mixture E are added when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃ and reduced, the mixture D and the mixture E are stirred uniformly, and the stirring is stopped when the temperature is reduced to 30-35 ℃.

The skin care product of the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsion system, preferably using a mild Biobase S emulsifier (glyceryl stearate/cetostearyl alcohol/sodium stearoyl lactylate), wherein the glyceryl stearate is 50-70%, cetostearyl alcohol is 20-30%, sodium stearoyl lactylate is 5-15%. The bio base S emulsifier contains ingredients similar to skin, sodium stearoyl lactylate is chemically a swelling agent that mimics the high HLB in skin, such as cholesterol sulfate and phospholipids, while cetyl stearyl alcohol and glycerol stearate mimic the hydrophobic free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides. Because the components are combined in proper proportion, the skin cuticle reconstruction function is realized, the moisture retention and water resistance of the skin are improved, and the product can be endowed with excellent use feeling. The Biobase S emulsifier is extremely effective, and the usage amount is 25% to 50% lower than that of the traditional emulsifying system, and the product stable at 45 ℃ can be prepared by using only 2% to 5% of the usage amount without using a thickening agent; easy formulation, mild and no irritation.

The product of the invention takes the inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract produced from double duck mountain of Heilongjiang province as main efficacy components, and is compounded with six functional components such as whitening, polysaccharide tightening agent, transdermal fibronectin, panthenol, nicotinamide, vitamin C ethyl ether, vitamin E acetate, sodium hyaluronate and the like, so as to enhance the effects of moisturizing, antioxidation, whitening, anti-inflammatory, anti-saccharification and the like.

Inonotus obliquus is also called Inonotus obliquus, and is a fungus used as both food and medicine for growing on white birch. Inonotus obliquus is used as a medicinal fungus for treating diseases in Russian folk, has no toxic or side effect, and has the effects of remarkably reducing the content of cholesterol and blood fat in serum and liver, inhibiting platelet aggregation, softening blood vessels, increasing the oxygen carrying capacity of blood, regulating normal secretion of hormones, improving secretion of endogenous estrogen, improving sleep, relaxing bowel, decomposing fat, reducing cholesterol reserves, and relieving anxiety and depression. Inonotus obliquus can also effectively remove free radicals in vivo, protect cells, prolong the division algebra of passage cells, prolong the service life of cells and promote metabolism, thereby effectively delaying aging. The inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract produced from the double duck mountain is selected from three inonotus obliquus in different production areas through experimental tests, the inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract has light color, has good inhibition effect on DPPH free radicals and tyrosinase, and has good inhibition effect on non-enzymatic glycosylation early saccharification products and advanced saccharification end products.

The six-taste whitening skin-whitening cream is prepared by taking the integral, dialectical and comprehensive ideas of traditional Chinese medicine as guidance, collecting six herbs (6 extracts of reed, licorice root, angelica root, red sage root, dogwood fruit and wolfberry root), and according to the formula principles of monarch, minister, assistant and guide, and the formula of the traditional Chinese medicine, carrying out synergistic compatibility and scientific processing, and providing a brand new whitening concept of clearing, activating and supplementing, whitening, clearing heat and detoxicating (anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and moderately inhibiting melanin synthesis), activating blood and dissolving stasis (improving skin microcirculation blood flow, improving pigmentation and stasis state), and nourishing (improving skin glossiness and improving skin brightness) and realizing 'scientific, healthy and comprehensive whitening'.

The polysaccharide tightening agent (GLYCOLIFT) is a water-soluble transparent non-sticky pale yellow liquid, is a linear polysaccharide extracted from brown algae, and comprises 40-75% of biogel-4, 5-15% of alpha-glucan oligosaccharide and 1-2% of sodium alginate. The polysaccharide tightening agent contains a sugar film protective agent, can effectively block pollutants and UV from damaging skin, and the alpha-glucan oligosaccharide contained in the polysaccharide tightening agent can promote the reproduction of skin saprophytic bacteria, inhibit the competition of pathogenic bacteria to protect bacteria which balance the skin, promote the growth of beneficial bacteria and inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria. The polysaccharide mixture can obtain optimal skin tightening effect without generating any sticky feeling, and has instant skin smoothing effect and perceived tightening effect.

The transdermal fibronectin (Chimeric FN) is a high-activity and high-permeability small-molecule fibronectin formed by intercepting the core active region of natural fibronectin by utilizing a recombinant DNA technology, merging with a biological transdermal peptide technology and recombining. Chimeric FN as a cell growth matrix can accelerate cell migration, so that the cell has good morphological structure, enhanced metabolic rate and accelerated cell growth; can connect various cell surfaces and structural proteins in skin, firmly stabilize fragile skin tissues; strengthening the stratum corneum, improving the hydration rate of the skin and improving the capability of the stratum corneum to resist external stimulus; regulating immunocyte phagocytosis to remove subcutaneous harmful substances, resisting bacteria, diminishing inflammation, and enhancing skin immunity; can promote endogenous natural fibronectin formation, effectively regulate melanin transfer and metabolism, inhibit melanin excessive concentrated accumulation, help melanin to be uniformly distributed on epidermis layer, and inhibit formation of various color spots.

The nursing effect of the panthenol on the skin is represented by a deeply penetrating humectant, stimulates the growth of epithelial cells, promotes wound healing and plays a role in diminishing inflammation; sodium hyaluronate is called the most ideal humectant, which can permanently moisturize and make skin tender and smooth; in addition, the hyaluronic acid can promote the absorption of other active ingredients and nutrient substances, improve the nutrient metabolism of skin, provide good environment for the synthesis of dermis collagen and elastic fiber, reduce the trace of aging wrinkles and prevent aging.

The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:

1) The product reasonably compounds various functional components such as Chinese herbal medicine extract, biotechnology preparation, vitamin derivatives and the like by deeply analyzing the causes of aging, and achieves the purposes of compacting skin and delaying aging by effectively removing free radicals, inhibiting non-enzymatic glycosylation reaction, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, reducing skin darkness, color spots and senile plaques, deeply moisturizing, repairing skin barriers, resisting bacteria and diminishing inflammation, supplementing nutrition, enhancing skin immunity, stimulating cells to produce substances such as collagen, hyaluronic acid and small molecular peptides, promoting cell metabolism, and coping with various mechanisms of aging in a multi-dimensional, multi-link and multi-target manner.

2) Among the added active ingredients, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, nicotinamide and fibronectin have the effects of enhancing the moisturizing effect of the product and repairing skin barriers; the extract of six-taste zhen bai, vitamin C ethyl ether, vitamin E acetate and inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun can remove excessive free radicals, inhibit tyrosinase activity, inhibit melanin generation, and reduce darkness, color spots and senile plaques; the nicotinamide can repair damaged stratum corneum lipid barrier, improve skin resistance, has extremely strong water locking and moisturizing effects, and can improve skin darkness and yellow; the inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract has a certain inhibition effect on non-enzymatic glycosylation early saccharification products and advanced saccharification end products, so that the product has the anti-saccharification effect. Fibronectin mobilizes immune cells to phagocytose and remove subcutaneous harmful substances, has antibacterial and antiinflammatory effects, and is effective in improving skin immunity, stimulating cells to produce nutrients (collagen, hyaluronic acid, small molecule peptide, etc.), and promoting cell metabolism; regulating the nutrient components of other parts of the body to nourish cells, clean the microenvironment of the cells, and the like. The biological sugar gum-4 ensures that the product has the effects of quickly pulling up skin in a short period and effectively blocking pollutants and UV damage to the skin.

3) The skin care product is an oil-in-water type emulsion system, helps to reconstruct the function of skin cuticle, improves the moisture retention and water resistance of skin, has excellent use feeling, is easy to smear, smooth and non-sticky, is easy to absorb by skin, and is mild and has no stimulation.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a photograph of cheeks taken by a volunteer using the skin care product of the present invention using a facial image analyzer Visia CR before and after one month, wherein (a 1) and (a 2) are before and after the use of the front face, (b 1) and (b 2) are before and after the use of the left face, and (c 1) and (c 2) are before and after the use of the right face.

Detailed Description

The invention is further illustrated, but is not limited, by the following examples.

The experimental methods in the following examples, unless otherwise specified, are all conventional methods, and experimental data are typical representative of the results of the protocol, for exemplary purposes of illustrating the effects achieved by the technical solutions of the present invention.

Experimental raw materials and sources thereof:

the Biobase S emulsifier in the phase A is prepared from glyceryl stearate, cetostearyl alcohol and sodium stearoyl lactylate by the manufacturer of Kelaien chemical (China) company, and the product number 317059, wherein the glyceryl stearate accounts for 50-70% of the total mass of the emulsifier, the cetostearyl alcohol accounts for 20-30% of the total mass of the emulsifier, and the sodium stearoyl lactylate accounts for 5-15% of the total mass of the emulsifier.

Hydrogenated polyisobutene in phase A (Cas#: 68937-10-0), manufacturer is Japanese oil Co., ltd; polydimethylsiloxane (Cas#: 63148-62-9), manufacturer is a Dow chemical (Zhang Jiang) investment Limited company; caprylic/capric triglyceride (Cas#: 73398-61-5), manufacturer is Dibo Corp; cyclopentadimethicone (Cas#: 541-02-6), manufacturer is Korean KCC group; polydimethylsiloxane and C16-18 alkyl dimethicone crosspolymer, trade name: velvesil DM Silicone (Cas#: 756876-51-4), manufacturer Momentive Performance Materials Japan LLC;2, 6-Di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol (Cas#: 128-37-0).

Betaine in phase B (Cas#: 107-43-7), manufacturer is DuPont (China) group Co., ltd; the card 2020 (Cas#: 176429-87-1) manufacturer is Libo (U.S.) corporation.

The inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract in the phase C is obtained by extracting inonotus obliquus in the place of production of double duck mountain in Heilongjiang river, and the extraction method comprises the following steps: accurately weighing 10g of crushed and dried inonotus obliquus, loading into a non-woven fabric filter bag, placing into a Soxhlet extractor, adding 95mL of 95% ethanol water solution, heating and refluxing for extraction for 3 hours in a water bath with the temperature of more than 95 ℃, cooling to room temperature, and then fixing the volume of the extract into a 100mL volumetric flask to obtain the inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract with the raw material content of 100 g/L.

Sodium hyaluronate Cas # 9067-32-7 in phase D, available from shandong Hua Xi biotechnology, inc; panthenol Cas#:81-13-0, vitamin C ethyl ether Cas#:86404-04-8, vitamin E acetate Cas#:7695-91-2, nicotinamide Cas#:98-92-0, all purchased from Beijing Bei Lilai Sibiosciences Inc.

Six ingredients in the E phase are purchased from Guangzhou vast Sen Fine chemical Co., ltd., product No. NW-01-1069, and are formed by compounding butanediol, reed extract, licorice extract, chinese angelica extract, red sage root extract, dogwood fruit extract and medlar root extract, and the ingredients comprise the following components in percentage by mass: 75-85% of butanediol, 3-6% of reed extract, 2-4% of licorice extract, 1-2% of angelica extract, 1-2% of root of red-rooted salvia extract, 1-2% of dogwood fruit extract and 1-2% of medlar root extract.

The transdermal fibronectin in the E phase is produced by Shenzhen Mei Jian Biotechnology Co., ltd, and the concentration is 500. Mu.g/mL.

The polysaccharide skin tightening agent in the E phase is produced by French Laiyya company, and the product number is 300-GLYCLF1, and is formed by compounding biological glycogelatin-4, 1,3 propylene glycol, alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, sodium alginate and phenoxyethanol, wherein the components comprise the following components in percentage by mass: 4-70% of biological sugar gum, 5-15% of 1,3 propylene glycol, 5-15% of alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, 1-2% of sodium alginate and 1.5% of phenoxyethanol.

PCG in E phase is a mixture of 1, 2-octanediol and 2-phenoxyethanol available from Nanjing Seebeck Biochemical industries, inc., cat# 150003.

The skin care products in table 1 were prepared as follows:

(1) Placing the phase A raw material into a water bath kettle with the temperature of 75-80 ℃ and stirring for 25-30min to melt solid matters to obtain a mixture A; adding other materials of phase B after pre-dispersing carbomer 2020 in water, and stirring in 75-80deg.C water bath for 25-30min to dissolve solid to obtain mixture B; and respectively mixing and stirring the raw materials of the phase C, the phase D and the phase E uniformly to obtain a mixture C, a mixture D and a mixture E.

(2) Adding the mixture B and the mixture C into the mixture A, rapidly stirring and emulsifying at 75-80 ℃ for 25-30min, then starting to reduce the temperature, adding the mixture D and the mixture E when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, uniformly stirring, stopping stirring when the temperature is reduced to 30-35 ℃, and discharging to obtain the multi-effect anti-aging skin cream.

In order to make during the preparation processThe sum of the total proportions of the phases is 100%Adding a proper amount of distilled water at the same time of adding each phase.

The 6 experimental samples of S1 to S6 in table 1 were prepared according to the above procedure, and the specific components and proportions are as in table 1:

TABLE 1

1. Product performance test

1 sensory Property evaluation

A small amount of sample is taken and placed at room temperature and under non-sunlight direct irradiation to visually observe whether the paste is fine and smooth, whether the color is uniform and consistent, and whether the smell is pure is identified by smell.

2 pH value (pH) test

3g of each sample was weighed and uniformly dispersed with 30mL of distilled water at 40.+ -. 1 ℃. The pH of the aqueous solution was measured at room temperature using a calibrated pH meter.

3 stability test

And respectively placing the sample in a freezer of a refrigerator at the temperature of minus 10 ℃ and a constant temperature oven at the temperature of 45 ℃ for 24 hours, taking out the sample, and observing whether the oil-water separation phenomenon occurs on the sample after the sample is recovered to the room temperature.

4 in vitro efficacy test

Inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract is diluted to 10.0, 5.0, 1.0 and 0.1g/L respectively as the liquid to be tested.

0.5g of each of S1 to S6 and a reference substance D1 (DHC-type multiple anti-aging cream) and D2 (Europea-type anti-aging emulsion) are weighed, dispersed by distilled water, and then the volume is respectively fixed in a 10mL volumetric flask to obtain each liquid to be measured.

4.1 test of DPPH radical scavenger

Taking the aboveAdding 3mL of DPPH solution with the concentration of 0.2mmol/L of the solution to be measured and the substance into the same test tube with a plug, shaking uniformly, placing for 30min in a dark place, and measuring absorbance A of the mixed solution at 517nm by using an ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer _i Simultaneously measuring absorbance A after mixing 3mL of solvent with 3mL of DPPH solution ₀ And absorbance A after 3mL of the liquid to be measured is mixed with 3mL of absolute ethyl alcohol _j The clearance P is calculated according to formula (1):

P＝[1-(A _i -A _j )/A ₀ ]×100％(1)

4.2 experiments on tyrosinase inhibition rate

Phosphate Buffer (PBS) at pH=6.8, 1 g/L-tyrosine solution, and 0.07g/L tyrosinase solution were prepared, respectively. Taking 4 test tubes, respectively marking the test tubes as A, B, C, D, wherein 0.5mL of L-tyrosine solution, 2mL of buffer solution and 2.0mL of tyrosinase solution are added into A, and 2.5mL of buffer solution and 2.0mL of tyrosinase solution are added into B; adding 1.5mL of buffer solution, 0.5mL of to-be-detected solution, 0.5mL of L-tyrosine solution and 2.0mL of tyrosinase solution into the solution C; to D, 2.0mL of buffer and 0.5mL of test solution and 2.0mL of tyrosinase solution were added. After shaking up each tube, the absorbance (A) was measured immediately at 475nm after incubation in a 37℃water bath for 30min, and VC was used as positive control. Calculating tyrosinase inhibition rate I according to formula (2) ₁ ：

I ₁ ＝[1-(C-D)/(A-B)]×100％ (2)

A, B, C, D in the formula (2) is the absorbance value of the test sample at 475 nm.

4.3 non-enzymatic glycosylation experiments

Establishment of a protein non-enzymatic saccharification inhibition reaction system:

under aseptic conditions, bovine serum albumin and glucose were dissolved. Both were dissolved in PBS buffer containing 8mmol/L EDTA, 100U/mL penicillin and 100U/mL streptomycin, 0.1mol/L, pH =7.4, and the final concentrations of bovine serum albumin solution and glucose solution in the system were 20g/L and 400mmol/L, respectively, while the control group was set: (1) a complete saccharification reaction system without adding a liquid to be tested; (2) bovine serum albumin as a control system; (3) A saccharification system in which the test solution is added but no bovine serum albumin is added; and (4) adding a saccharification system without adding glucose into the liquid to be tested. Drug group: and (5) adding the complete saccharification reaction system of the liquid to be tested. The mixture is placed in a constant temperature drying oven at 37 ℃ for light-proof incubation.

Determination of early saccharification product (Amadori product) inhibition:

the reaction system is incubated for 20 days under the condition of avoiding light, and then taken out for testing the Amadori product inhibition effect. Firstly, 200 mu L of each reaction solution is taken and placed in a test tube with a plug, 8mL of 0.1g/L NBT solution (0.1 mol/L, pH =10.8 sodium carbonate-sodium bicarbonate buffer solution is added, the two solutions are fully mixed and placed in a constant temperature drying box at 37 ℃ for reaction, the mixture is taken out after 15min, 0.4mL of 15% acetic acid is added, the reaction is stopped by using a cold water bath, and after about 30min, the absorbance A of each reaction solution at 530nm is tested by using an ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer. Calculating the inhibition rate I of Amadori product according to the following formula ₂ 。

I ₂ ＝[1-(A _{Medicine 5} -A _{Pair 3} -A _{Pair 4} )/(A _{Pair 1} -A _{Pair 2} )]×100％ (3)

Determination of inhibition of advanced glycation end products (AGEs products):

after 40 days of incubation of the reaction system in the dark, the inhibition of the advanced glycation end products was tested by fluorescence spectrophotometry. The fluorescence intensity F of each group of reaction solutions was measured under conditions of excitation wavelength of 370nm, emission wavelength of 440nm, and slit at 5 nm. Calculating the inhibition rate I of AGEs products according to the following formula ₃ 。

I ₃ ＝[1-(F _{Medicine 5} -F _{Pair 3} -F _{Pair 4} )/(F _{Pair 1} -F _{Pair 2} )]×100％ (4)

5 human body test

5.1 selection of testers

According to the product test requirements, the experimental study subjects are 30 healthy women (except for the gestation lactation period) aged 35-60 years. No other clinical trials were taken in the month prior to the trial; and no active allergy history; the skin diseases such as inflammation and the like are not healed; and the aging phenomena such as obvious fine lines and color spots on the skin are selected according to the experimental requirements.

5.2 test arrangement

The test protocol was as follows:

1. after cleaning the skin, a proper amount of sample is taken and is rubbed on the facial skin, and the patient lies in the room for 15min.

2. The skin elasticity index R2 of the cheek skin before and after each use was measured 3 times and averaged using the skin elasticity meter Cutometer dual MPA 580. The R2 value is the ratio of the rebound amount of the skin without negative pressure to the maximum stretching amount with negative pressure. The closer the R2 value is to 1, the better the skin elasticity is.

3. The Skin gloss measurement Probe Skin-Glossometer GL200 was used to measure the L-value of the Skin brightness of the cheek before and after each use, the greater the L-value, the more white the color, and vice versa. The measurements were averaged 3 times.

4. The skin moisture measurement probe Probe Corneometer CM825 was used to measure moisture of the cheek skin before and after each use, and the average was taken 10 times.

5. The left, right, and front photographs of the volunteer before and after use were recorded using a visual CR facial analyzer, and the spots, pores, and wrinkle smoothness of the cheek parts before and after use were analyzed and compared.

2. Results of Performance test

Test results of 1 Inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract

TABLE 2 clearance of Inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract (IOE) to DPPH-free radical (P) and IC ₅₀ Value of

The DPPH radical ethanol solution has dark purple red, has maximum absorption at 517nm, and the absorbance is in linear relation with the concentration. When an antioxidant is added thereto, the antioxidant can bind to the lone pair electrons of DPPH-free radicals and be reduced to a yellow DPPH-H molecule to fade, the degree of fade being quantitatively dependent on the number of electrons received. Therefore, the DPPH radical scavenging ability of the antioxidant can be evaluated based on the change in absorbance. Table 2 shows Inonotus obliquus with a double duck mountain in its originKong Junchun extract and positive control (VC) concentration IC for scavenging P and half inhibition rate of DPPH free radical ₅₀ Values. From the data in the table, the IC thereof can be seen ₅₀ A value of 0.28g/L; when the content of the raw medicinal materials is 3g/L, the P value of the raw medicinal materials exceeds 90 percent. The alcohol extract has better scavenging effect on DPPH and free radicals.

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis. Tyrosinase catalyzes the conversion of dopa to dopaquinone in a phosphate solution at pH 6.8, and then undergoes a series of reactions to produce melanin in a quantity proportional to the activity of the enzyme. The melanin material has a maximum absorption at 475 nm. The addition of a material having tyrosinase inhibiting action can reduce the conversion of dopa to dopaquinone, thereby reducing absorbance. Therefore, the activity of the enzyme in the system can be detected according to the absorbance change degree. Table 3 shows the inhibition ratio (I) of Inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract and positive control (VC) on tyrosinase ₁ ) Semi-inhibition rate concentration IC ₅₀ Values. From the data in the table, the IC thereof can be seen ₅₀ 0.73g/L; at a content of 5g/L, the inhibition rate I ₁ 90% has been reached. The alcohol extract has good inhibition effect on tyrosinase.

TABLE 3 inhibition of tyrosinase by Inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract (IOE) (I ₁ ) IC (integrated circuit) ₅₀ Value of

TABLE 4 inhibition of Amadori products by Inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract (IOE) (I ₂ )

TABLE 5 inhibition of Inonotus Obliquus Extract (IOE) on AGEs products (I) ₃ ) IC (integrated circuit) ₅₀ Value of

Under the condition of no enzyme catalysis, the protein and the glucose react in vivo to form early saccharification products such as Schiff alkali, amadori products and the like, and then the advanced saccharification end products AGEs of irreversible non-enzymatic glycosylation are formed through the processes of oxidization, rearrangement, crosslinking and the like. AGEs are further crosslinked and irreversible with biological macromolecules such as proteins, nucleic acids, lipids and the like in-vivo tissues, and finally the functions of AGEs are damaged. When AGEs bind collagen or elastin in human skin, they cause aging phenomena such as skin sagging, loss of elasticity, etc. And by adopting in-vitro non-enzymatic saccharification reaction, the anti-saccharification effect of the active ingredient can be evaluated by measuring the inhibition rate of the sample on Amadori products and AGEs products. Inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract and positive control aminoguanidine sulfate inhibition rate I on Amadori product ₂ And inhibition rate I of AGEs products ₃ See tables 4 and 5. From the data in the table, it can be seen that: inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract has inhibition rate I to Amadori product at 5g/L ₂ 22.6%; inhibition rate I of AGEs products ₃ 83.9% IC ₅₀ 0.51g/L. The Inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract has a certain inhibition effect on non-enzymatic saccharification early products and a good inhibition effect on advanced saccharification end products.

2 results of inventive product testing

The paste of the product is uniform and fine, and has stable property; the color is light brown; slightly has the smell of Chinese herbal medicines; the pH is in the range of 6.55-6.67; standing at-10deg.C and 45deg.C for 24 hr to recover room temperature without oil-water separation; the sensory and physical and chemical indexes meet the requirements of national skin cream industry standard QB/T1857-2013.

3 evaluation of efficacy

In order to compare the contributions of the active ingredients to the inventive product, experimental studies were made on 6 anti-aging skin lotions S1 to S6 in table 1 prepared by gradually adding different active ingredients. Table 6 lists the results of in vitro efficacy tests after 20-fold dilution of 6 anti-aging skin cream and controls D1, D2. Efficacy test includes DPPH radical clearance P and tyrosinase inhibition I ₁ Amadori product inhibition of non-enzymatic glycosylation reaction I ₂ And inhibition rate I of AGEs products ₃ 。

Table 6 results of efficacy test of six anti-aging skin lotions and controls

Six anti-aging skin cream S1 to S6 have a DPPH radical scavenging rate P and a tyrosinase inhibition rate I ₁ The test results are shown in Table 6, and it is found from the table that the DPPH radical scavenging rate and tyrosinase inhibition rate of the product are gradually increased with the increase of the added active ingredient, but the increase is different. Wherein the P value of S2 is increased from 16.7% to 57.0% compared with the P value of the matrix formula S1, I ₁ The value is increased from 5.6% to 14.6%, which shows that the addition of the vitamin functional components (especially vitamin C ethyl ether and vitamin E acetate) has good antioxidation and can also inhibit the tyrosinase activity; p, I of S3 ₁ The values are respectively increased to 81.3 percent and 27.9 percent, and are increased by 24.3 percent and 13.3 percent compared with S2, so that the addition of the inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract can obviously improve the DPPH clearance rate of the product and also increase the inhibition of tyrosinase activity; p, I of S4 ₁ The values are 89.7 percent and 45.0 percent, and the ratio of the S3 is increased by 8.4 percent and 17.1 percent, which indicates that the six ingredients have a certain antioxidation effect and better effect of inhibiting tyrosinase activity; p, I of S5 after addition of fibronectin ₁ The values are 92.3 percent and 52.5 percent respectively, and the value is slightly increased compared with the value of S4; s6 of the additional polysaccharide skin tightening agent is not obviously improved, and is 93.4 percent and 52.9 percent respectively. P, I for controls D1 and D2 ₁ The values are 18.4%, 9.4% and 31.2%, 6.5%, respectively, only between S1 and S2.

Six anti-aging skin-moistening creams S1 to S6 and control products D1 and D2 have inhibition rate I on Amadori product of non-enzymatic saccharification reaction ₂ And AGEs product inhibition Rate I ₃ The results are still shown in Table 6. It can be found that the inhibition rate of Amadori product and AGEs product is gradually increased along with the increase of active ingredients, and the inhibition rate of S6 sample is adoptedThe preparation effect is best. As can be seen from the amplification after adding the active ingredients, the inhibition rate of Amadori product and AGEs product is the extract of Inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun with the maximum contribution, and the S3 added with the extract of the Amadori product and AGEs product is respectively increased by 14.0% compared with the S2 which is not added with the extract of the Amadori product and AGEs product ₂ ) And 25.1% (I) ₃ ) Indicating that the anti-glycation agent has better anti-glycation effect; the addition of other functional components can increase the inhibition rate of the product to Amadori products and AGEs products, but the effects of the inonotus obliquus Kong Junchun extract are not obvious. I of control group D1 ₂ 25.0%, similar to S3; i ₃ 28.1%, between S1 and S2. I of D2 ₂ 35.4%, similar to S5; i ₃ 46.9%, between S2 and S3.

As can be seen from the table: the DPPH clearance rate of the product S6 is 93.4%, the tyrosinase inhibition rate is 52.9%, the Amadori product and AGEs product of the non-enzymatic glycosylation reaction are respectively inhibited by 40.5% and 83.9%, and the indexes are far higher than those of a control sample.

4. Test results for human body trial

4.1 skin tester test example results

The average of the changes in elasticity, radiance, and moisture content values of the cheek skin before and after 1 month using S6 (product of the present invention) for 30 volunteers is shown in table 7. As can be seen from the data in the table, after the product is used, the skin elasticity, the glossiness and the moisture content value are all increased to a certain extent. Wherein the elasticity value R2 is increased by 0.06, the skin color brightness L is increased by 8.5, and the moisture content is increased by 10.6%. The product can improve the skin color, increase the moisture content of the skin and the skin elasticity in a short period.

TABLE 7 skin elasticity, gloss, moisture content numerical variation

4.2 example cases of wrinkle improvement in the cheek skin of volunteers

Fig. 1 is a photograph of cheeks taken by a female volunteer of 45 years old dry skin using the inventive product (S6 product) before and after one month using a facial image analyzer visual CR, before (a 1) and after (a 2) use of the front face, before (b 1) use of the left face, after (b 2) use, before (c 1) use of the right face, and after (c 2) use, respectively. As can be seen from comparison of the skin conditions of the face before and after the product is used, after the product is used for 1 month, the fine lines of the cheek skin of the volunteer are basically disappeared, the deep wrinkles have obvious fading phenomenon, the brightness of the skin is obviously improved, the pores are reduced, and the reddish skin is also obviously improved.

Other parallel embodiments

The invention is based on the above test, the proportion of each component is properly expanded, as shown in table 8, and the obtained product is subjected to the product performance test as described above, and the obtained result is not significantly different from the result of the S6 product.

TABLE 8

Claims

1. A multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is characterized by comprising a phase A raw material, a phase B raw material and a phase C raw material, wherein:

the C-phase raw materials comprise the following raw materials in parts by weight: 8.0-12.0 parts of inonotus obliquus extract and 0.18-0.22 part of triethanolamine; the weight percentage of the C phase raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 8.18 to 12.22 percent; the inonotus obliquus extract is inonotus Kong Junchun extract, and each liter of extract contains 100g of raw materials according to the consumption of the raw materials;

the phase A raw material comprises 4-5 parts by weight of dimethyl siloxane, 2-3 parts by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 5-6 parts by weight of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 3-4 parts by weight of cyclopenta-dimethyl siloxane, 1.8-2.2 parts by weight of polydimethylsiloxane and C16-18 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer, 4.5-5.5 parts by weight of emulsifier and 0.015-0.025 part by weight of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; the emulsifier is selected from glycerol stearate, cetostearyl alcohol and a compound of sodium stearoyl lactylate; the weight percentage of the A phase raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 20.315-25.725%;

the phase B raw material comprises 4-6 parts by weight of glycerin, 1.5-2.5 parts by weight of betaine, 0.18-0.22 part by weight of carbomer 2020, 0.04-0.06 part by weight of disodium edetate and 2.5-3.5 parts by weight of propylene glycol;

the weight percentage of the B phase raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 8.22 to 12.28 percent;

the composition also comprises a D-phase raw material, wherein the D-phase raw material comprises 0.08-0.12 weight part of sodium hyaluronate, 0.4-0.6 weight part of panthenol, 0.4-0.6 weight part of vitamin C ethyl ether, 0.4-0.6 weight part of vitamin E acetate, 0.4-0.6 weight part of nicotinamide and 18-22 weight parts of water;

the weight percentage of the D phase raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 19.68-24.52%;

the skin-tightening agent also comprises an E-phase raw material, wherein the E-phase raw material comprises 1.8-2.2 parts by weight of six-ingredient zhen bai, 0.9-1.1 parts by weight of transdermal fibronectin, 1.8-2.2 parts by weight of polysaccharide skin-tightening agent and 1 part by weight of PCG; the weight percentage of the E phase raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 5.4 to 6.6 percent;

the components of the polysaccharide skin tightening agent are as follows:

biological sugar gum-4-70%, 1,3 propylene glycol 5-15%, alpha-glucan oligosaccharide 5-15%, sodium alginate 1-2%, phenoxyethanol 1.5%;

the six white components comprise the following components in percentage by mass:

75-85% of butanediol, 3-6% of reed extract, 2-4% of licorice extract, 1-2% of angelica extract, 1-2% of root of red-rooted salvia extract, 1-2% of dogwood fruit extract and 1-2% of medlar root extract.

2. The multi-effect anti-aging skin care product according to claim 1, which is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 23.02% of phase A material, 10.25% of phase B material, 10.2% of phase C material, 22.1% of phase D material and 6% of phase E material, the balance being water.

3. The method for preparing the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product according to any one of claims 1 to 2, which is characterized by comprising the following steps:

(2) Mixing the raw material inonotus obliquus extract with triethanolamine to obtain a mixture C; mixing the D-phase raw materials to obtain a mixture D; mixing the E-phase raw materials to obtain a mixture E;

(3) Adding the mixture B and the mixture C into the mixture A according to the percentage ratio, rapidly stirring and emulsifying for 25-30min at 75-80 ℃, then starting to reduce the temperature, adding the mixture D and the mixture E when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, uniformly stirring, continuously reducing the temperature to 30-35 ℃, and stopping stirring.