CN111743798A

CN111743798A - Multi-effect anti-aging skin care product and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111743798A
Application number: CN202010633519.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 王雪梅; 李奥丽; 张梦蝶; 吴恙; 高先亭; 候玉洁; 许静; 姜文姬; 陆嘉婧
Original assignee: Hefei Kadier Biotechnology Co ltd; Anhui University
Current assignee: Hefei Kadier Biotechnology Co ltd; Anhui University
Priority date: 2020-07-02
Filing date: 2020-07-02
Publication date: 2020-10-09
Anticipated expiration: 2040-07-02
Also published as: CN111743798B

Abstract

The invention relates to a multi-effect anti-aging skin care product and a preparation method thereof, belonging to the technical field of cosmetics, wherein a composition for a multi-effect anti-aging product comprises an inonotus obliquus extract; aiming at the measure of effectively delaying senescence, the invention selects functional raw materials from different angles, scientifically mixes a plurality of active ingredients with the effects of moisturizing, whitening, resisting oxidation, resisting saccharification, resisting inflammation and pulling and tightening according to the synergistic principle to prepare the real multi-effect anti-aging skin-moistening cream, tests the sensory and physicochemical indexes of the product, researches the effects of whitening, resisting oxidation, resisting saccharification and the like, and comprehensively evaluates the product performance through the trial of a volunteer and the test of a skin tester.

Description

Multi-effect anti-aging skin care product and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a multi-effect anti-aging skin care product and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The outermost tissue of the human body is the skin, and the face is the most visible and exposed part of the human body and is also the most easily-aged part. Especially with age, the skin slowly begins to age, a process that is hidden and gradual and is an inevitable natural law of the organism. With age, the skin shows the following appearance: (1) the skin is loose and thin, and is often dry, scaly and glossy; (2) the elasticity and the firmness are reduced; (3) wrinkles are formed and gradually increased and deepened; (4) the skin sensitivity increases and the pigment also increases.

The basis for the above-mentioned extrinsic manifestations of skin aging is the intrinsic aging-increasing changes in the physiological and biochemical tissue structure of the skin.

The epidermis thins with age, with the thickness of the epidermis decreasing by about one third from 20 to 80 years of age. The epidermis becomes thin, the content of natural moisturizing factors in the intercellular substance of the epidermis is reduced, the skin hydration is reduced, and the skin is dry and loses luster. With age, melanin in the exposed areas of face, arm, forearm, etc. tends to increase, often causing senile pigment spots; lipid peroxide lipid free radicals formed by lipid over-oxidation are also one of the causes of senile plaque formation.

The dermis is rich in connective tissue, the major component being macromolecular fibrillar proteins. Wherein collagen accounts for about 70% of the dry weight of skin proteins, mainly type I and type III collagen, elastin only 1% -3%, and the balance mucins and structural glycoproteins. A structural glycoprotein named fibronectin is a protein active substance widely existing in human bodies, and is a main non-collagenous glycoprotein in an intercellular matrix and a basement membrane of skin, plays a central role in cell adhesion, can regulate cell polarity, differentiation and growth, widely participates in processes of skin cell migration, adhesion, proliferation, hemostasis, tissue repair and the like, and mobilizes an immune cell system to remove harmful substances at damaged tissues.

Changes in the composition of collagen are important in skin aging, with increasing age increasing the ratio of type III collagen to type I collagen; secondly, the collagen forms cross-links with each other via collagen bonds. Collagen is crosslinked in two forms: one is the cross-linking between amino acids (primarily histidine-alanine cross-links in aging); another type is crosslinking by non-enzymatic saccharification (also known as Maillard reaction). The crosslinked collagen fibers are recombined into stable fiber bundles, which make the structure firm and lack elasticity, and form wrinkles.

Elastin is the most predominant fibrous protein that maintains skin elasticity, and its decreased content or denaturation is a significant cause of decreased skin elasticity and wrinkle formation. With the age, the vertical elastin fiber network structure in the papillary layer disappears in a fragment shape and the distribution density is reduced under the degradation effect of elastase. Normally, elastase is inhibited by elastase inhibitors. With age, elastase inhibitor levels decrease and elastin breakdown increases. Degradation of elastin content is more pronounced in aged skin caused by light acceleration.

The number of blood vessels in the dermis decreases with age and skin aging, plus arteriosclerosis, thickening of the vessel wall, narrowing of the lumen, and affecting the blood circulation. In addition, because the skin atrophy and thinning, the connective tissue degeneration in the dermis and the supporting force to blood vessels in the skin are reduced, the skin of the old can have the phenomena of telangiectasia and small varicose veins. With the age, the number of sweat glands is reduced, sebaceous glands are atrophied, the function is degraded, the secretion of sweat and sebum is reduced, and the secretion components are changed; the keratinocyte matrix content is also reduced; when the skin is aged, the content of the hyaluronic acid is reduced due to the degradation of the hyaluronic acid; these phenomena together lead to a decrease in the water retention capacity of the skin, a gradual decline in the water barrier function of the skin, and an increase in the rate of transepidermal water loss, TEWL.

The causes of skin aging are mainly divided into two types, one is endogenous aging, i.e. the process of natural aging (physiological aging) which occurs from molecules, cells to tissues and organs or even the whole body under the control of genes; another is extrinsic aging, including photoaging and aging due to environmental and lifestyle factors.

How to more effectively delay skin aging is highly valued and concerned by experts and scholars in the anti-aging science, biology, medicine, cosmetology and other related subject fields, and more skin anti-aging products with remarkable effects are researched and developed, and become the most active field and the hottest topic of the current society. Currently, important countermeasures for anti-aging include the following:

1. enhancing skin proliferation and metabolism. The essence of aging is the decline of tissue cell function. Therefore, promotion of cellular activity, i.e., proliferative metabolic capacity, and thus delay of skin aging is a key basic strategy.

2. Reconstituting the extracellular matrix of the skin. The extracellular matrix of skin tissue, mainly connective tissue such as collagen, elastin, mucopolysaccharides and structural glycoproteins, also includes lipids and certain natural moisturizing factors, which maintain the barrier function and hydration of the skin. The restructuring of extracellular matrix structures, which tend to be youthful in both quality and quantity, is also one of the important strategies for skin aging resistance.

3. Is resistant to ultraviolet radiation. Of the many external factors that promote skin aging, photoaging caused by ultraviolet rays is the most important factor. Therefore, ultraviolet resistance and sun protection are important measures for resisting and preventing aging of the skin.

4. And (4) oxidation resistance. Antioxidant refers to the damaging effect of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generated against ions and low-energy radiation on skin lipids, proteins, and biological membranes. At present, the effects of counteracting and eliminating free radicals and preventing the damage of the free radicals are often achieved by antioxidants. Antioxidants can be broadly divided into two categories: one is non-enzyme antioxidant, commonly used are vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin C, selenium and selenium compound, etc.; the other is enzyme antioxidant, and the most widely used is superoxide dismutase (SOD), and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-PX), Catalase (CAT), glutathione reductase (GSSG-R), coenzyme Q10, etc.

5. Resisting saccharification. The glycation reaction of the skin means that excessive sugar is released in blood throughout the day due to too slow metabolism of the skin, and the excessive sugar is attached to collagen, so that the collagen is broken or disordered, the skin becomes rough, and wrinkles appear. For this purpose, active ingredients which are effective in slowing down the glycation of the skin can be added to the product.

6. And (3) resisting crosslinking. Crosslinking of collagen or elastic fibers in the dermis is one of the important causes of aging manifestations such as skin shrinkage and elasticity loss. Many metal ions are a kind of crosslinking agent, and therefore a crosslinking reaction is suppressed by complexing the metal ions using citrate, sodium tartrate, EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), or the like.

7. And (3) degradation resistance. The degradation has the consequence of accelerating the breakdown of the skin structure and the ageing process. Degradation resistance refers to resistance to the degradation of the skin extracellular matrix by various hydrolytic enzymes. Such as against the degradation of collagenases, elastases, hyaluronidases, etc. to their substrates collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid, respectively.

8. Resisting allergic inflammation. Among the environmental factors, in addition to the photo-aging caused by ultraviolet rays, air pollution caused by carbon dioxide, smoking, and exhaust gas discharged from automobiles is the most important. Skin damage caused by environmental pollution is common but not easy to detect, and is often manifested as skin allergic inflammation reaction. Repeated allergies lead to skin aging. Therefore, anti-allergic inflammation is also one of the important strategies for skin anti-aging.

The first is to rebuild the self-protection barrier of the skin, including ultraviolet protection, cleaning, nutrition and necessary nursing, to help the skin rebuild the protection barrier; secondly, effective substances with anti-allergic effect are used.

Therefore, in order to effectively delay skin aging, measures that can be taken in the anti-aging cosmetic composition are: supplying water and oil to maintain water and oil balance, repairing skin barrier function, inhibiting excessive free radical generation, promoting cell metabolism, supplying skin collagen and elastin, preventing and repairing ultraviolet injury, inhibiting tyrosinase activity and melanin generation, inhibiting non-enzymatic glycosylation reaction, enhancing cell activity, and promoting blood circulation.

Although the skin care products declared to have the anti-aging effect on the market are full of eyes, the action mechanisms of the skin care products are different, most of the products only start from a certain mechanism, and some functional components are added in a targeted manner or are not added enough, so that the skin care products cannot achieve a comprehensive and effective anti-aging effect.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims at the problems, selects functional raw materials from different angles aiming at the measure of effectively delaying senility, scientifically combines a plurality of active ingredients with the functions of moisturizing, whitening, antioxidation, anti-saccharification, anti-inflammation, pulling and tightening according to the synergistic principle, provides an application of inonotus obliquus extract in preparing a multi-effect skin anti-aging product, the multi-effect skin anti-aging product containing the inonotus obliquus extract and a preparation method of the product, and the scheme is as follows:

the invention provides a use of an inonotus obliquus extract in preparation of a multi-effect skin anti-aging product, which is characterized in that the inonotus obliquus extract is an inonotus obliquus alcohol extract, and each liter of the extract contains 100g of raw medicinal materials by the dosage of the raw medicinal materials.

In another aspect of the present invention, a multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is provided, which is characterized by comprising a phase a raw material, a phase B raw material and a phase C raw material, wherein:

the C-phase raw material comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 8.0-12.0 parts of inonotus obliquus extract and 0.18-0.22 part of triethanolamine; the weight percentage of the phase C raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 8.18-12.22%, preferably 10.2%; the inonotus obliquus extract is inonotus obliquus alcohol extract, and each liter of extract contains 100g of raw medicinal materials by the dosage of the raw medicinal materials;

the phase A raw material comprises 4-5 parts by weight of dimethyl siloxane, 2-3 parts by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 5-6 parts by weight of hydrogenated polyisobutene, 3-4 parts by weight of cyclopenta dimethyl siloxane, 1.8-2.2 parts by weight of polydimethylsiloxane and C16-18 alkyl dimethyl siloxane cross-linked polymer, 4.5-5.5 parts by weight of emulsifier and 0.015-0.025 part by weight of 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol; the emulsifier is selected from a compound of glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol and sodium stearoyl lactylate; the weight percentage of the phase A raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 20.315-25.725%, preferably 23.02%;

the phase B raw material comprises 4-6 parts by weight of glycerol, 1.5-2.5 parts by weight of betaine, 0.04-0.06 part by weight of carbomer 20200.18, 0.5-3.5 parts by weight of ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid and 2.5-3.5 parts by weight of propylene glycol; the weight percentage of the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 8.22-12.28%, and the optimal weight percentage is 10.25%.

Preferably, the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product also comprises a phase D raw material, wherein the phase D raw material comprises 0.08-0.12 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 0.4-0.6 part by weight of panthenol, 0.4-0.6 part by weight of vitamin C ethyl ether, 0.4-0.6 part by weight of vitamin E acetate, 0.4-0.6 part by weight of nicotinamide and 18-22 parts by weight of water; the weight percentage of the phase D raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 19.68-24.52%, and is preferably 22.1%.

Preferably, the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product also comprises an E phase raw material, wherein the E phase raw material comprises 1.8 to 2.2 weight parts of six-component refined fibronectin, 0.9 to 1.1 weight parts of transdermal fibronectin, 1.8 to 2.2 weight parts of polysaccharide firming agent and 1 weight part of PCG; the weight percentage of the phase E raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 5.4-6.6%, and the preferred weight percentage is 6%.

The multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 20.315-25.725% of phase A raw material, 8.22-12.28% of phase B raw material, 8.18-12.22% of phase C raw material, 19.68-24.52% of phase D raw material, 5.4-6.6% of phase E raw material and the balance of water;

the phase A raw material contains dimethyl siloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated polyisobutene, cyclopenta dimethyl siloxane, dimethyl siloxane and C16-18 alkyl dimethyl siloxane cross-linked polymer, emulsifier and 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol;

the phase B material contains glycerol, betaine, carbomer 2020, disodium edetate, and propylene glycol;

the C phase material contains Inonotus obliquus extract and triethanolamine; the inonotus obliquus extract is inonotus obliquus alcohol extract, and each liter of extract contains 100g of raw material D phase raw materials including sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, vitamin C ethyl ether, vitamin E acetate, nicotinamide and water according to the dosage of the raw material;

the phase E material contains LIUWEIZAO, transdermal fibronectin, polysaccharide skin firming agent, and PCG.

Preferably, the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product consists of the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 23.02% of phase A raw material, 10.25% of phase B raw material, 10.2% of phase C raw material, 22.1% of phase D raw material and 6% of phase E raw material, and the balance being water.

In another aspect of the present invention, a method for preparing any of the above multi-effect anti-aging skin care products is provided, which is characterized by comprising the following steps:

(1) mixing the phase A raw materials, heating, stirring and melting to obtain an oil phase mixture A; dispersing carbomer 2020 in the B phase raw material in water, adding into other B phase raw materials, and stirring in 75-80 deg.C water bath for 25-30min to dissolve solid substance to obtain mixture B;

(2) mixing the raw materials of the inonotus obliquus extract and triethanolamine of the composition for the multi-effect anti-aging product to obtain a mixture C;

(3) adding the mixture B and the mixture C into the mixture A according to the percentage ratio, quickly stirring and emulsifying for 25-30min at 75-80 ℃, then starting to reduce the temperature at a reduced speed, and stopping stirring when the temperature is continuously reduced to 30-35 ℃.

Preferably, the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product further comprises the phase D raw material and the phase E raw material;

mixing the D-phase raw materials to obtain a mixture D; mixing the E-phase raw materials to obtain a mixture E

And (3) slowing down and cooling, adding the mixture D and the mixture E when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, uniformly stirring, and stopping stirring when the temperature is continuously reduced to 30-35 ℃.

The skin care product of the invention is an oil-in-water emulsified system, preferably using a mild Biobase S emulsifier (glyceryl stearate/cetearyl alcohol/sodium stearoyl lactylate) with glyceryl stearate 50-70%, cetearyl alcohol 20-30%, sodium stearoyl lactylate 5-15%. Biobase S emulsifiers contain ingredients similar to skin, sodium stearoyl lactylate is chemically a swelling agent that mimics the high HLB of skin, such as cholesterol sulfate and phospholipids, while cetostearyl alcohol and glyceryl stearate mimic the hydrophobic free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. Due to the combination of the components in a proper proportion, the skin cuticle reconstruction function is realized, the moisture retention and water resistance of the skin are improved, and the product has excellent use feeling. The Biobase S emulsifier is extremely effective, the using amount is 25 to 50 percent lower than that of the traditional emulsifying system, and a product stable at 45 ℃ can be prepared by using 2 to 5 percent of the using amount under the condition of not using a thickening agent; easy formulation, mild property and no irritation.

The product of the invention takes inonotus obliquus alcohol extract produced from Duck mountain of Heilongjiang province as a main functional component, and is compounded with functional components of Liuwei Zhen Bai, polysaccharide firming agent, transdermal fibronectin, panthenol, nicotinamide, vitamin C ethyl ether, vitamin E acetic ester, sodium hyaluronate and the like so as to enhance the effects of moisturizing, antioxidation, whitening, anti-inflammation, anti-saccharification and the like.

Inonotus obliquus is also called Inonotus obliquus and Inonotus obliquus, and is a dual-purpose fungus for food and medicine growing on the birch. The inonotus obliquus is used as a medicinal fungus for treating diseases in Russian folks, has no toxic or side effect, and has the effects of remarkably reducing the contents of cholesterol and blood fat in serum and liver, inhibiting platelet aggregation, softening blood vessels, increasing the oxygen carrying capacity of blood, regulating the normal secretion of hormones, improving the secretion of endogenous estrogen, improving sleep, loosening the bowel to relieve constipation, decomposing fat, reducing cholesterol storage and relieving anxiety and depression. The inonotus obliquus can also effectively eliminate free radicals in vivo, protect cells, prolong the division passage of passage cells, prolong the service life of the cells, promote metabolism and effectively delay aging. The product of the invention is selectively added with inonotus obliquus alcohol extract produced from Duck mountain, which is screened from three kinds of inonotus obliquus produced in different places through experimental tests, and the inonotus obliquus alcohol extract has light color, has very good inhibition effect on DPPH, free radicals and tyrosinase, and has better inhibition effect on non-enzymatic glycosylation early-stage saccharification products and advanced glycosylation final products.

The six ingredients whitening is guided by the concept of 'integration, syndrome differentiation and synthesis' of traditional Chinese medicine, integrates the six ingredients (6 extracts of reed, licorice root, angelica root, salvia root, dogwood fruit and wolfberry root), is prepared by scientific processing according to the principle of 'monarch, minister, assistant and guide' formula and by synergistic compatibility, proposes a brand-new 'clearing, activating and nourishing, whitening concept, clears away heat and toxic material (resists inflammation, resists oxidation, properly inhibits melanin synthesis), activates blood circulation to dissipate blood stasis (improves microcirculation blood flow of skin, improves pigmentation and stasis state), invigorates and nourishes (improves skin glossiness and improves skin whiteness), and realizes' scientific, healthy and comprehensive 'whitening'.

The polysaccharide firming agent (GLYCOLIFT) is a water-soluble transparent, non-sticky, light yellow liquid, is a straight-chain polysaccharide extracted from brown algae, and comprises biological carbohydrate gum-4 40-75%, alpha-glucan oligosaccharide 5-15%, and sodium alginate 1-2%. The polysaccharide firming agent contains a sugar film protective agent, can effectively prevent pollutants and UV from damaging the skin, contains alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, can promote the reproduction of skin saprophytic flora, inhibits the competitiveness of pathogenic flora to protect flora balancing the skin, promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria and inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria. The mixture of polysaccharides is capable of obtaining an optimum tightening effect without any sticky feeling, with an instant skin smoothing effect and an appreciable tightening effect.

Transdermal fibronectin (Chimeric FN) is a small molecular chemical fibronectin with high activity and high permeability, which is prepared by intercepting the core active region of natural fibronectin by using a recombinant DNA technology, integrating a biological transdermal peptide technology and recombining. Chimeric FN is used as a substrate for cell growth, and can accelerate cell migration, so that the morphological structure of cells is good, the metabolic rate is enhanced, and the cell growth is accelerated; can connect various structural proteins on the cell surface and in the skin, firmly stabilize the fragile skin tissue; strengthening the stratum corneum, improving the hydration rate of the skin and improving the capability of the stratum corneum to resist external stimulation; mobilize the immune cells to phagocytize and remove subcutaneous harmful substances, resist bacteria and diminish inflammation, and enhance the immune function of the skin; can promote the formation of endogenous natural fibronectin, effectively regulate the transfer and metabolic processes of melanin, inhibit excessive concentrated accumulation of melanin, help the melanin to be uniformly distributed on the epidermal layer and inhibit the formation of various color spots.

The skin care effect of panthenol is characterized in that the panthenol is deeply permeated into a moisturizer, stimulates the growth of epithelial cells, promotes wound healing and has an anti-inflammatory effect; sodium hyaluronate is called as an ideal humectant, and can keep moisture for a long time to make the skin tender and smooth; in addition, hyaluronic acid can promote the absorption of other active ingredients and nutrients, improve the nutrition metabolism of the skin, provide a good environment for the synthesis of dermal collagen and elastic fibers, reduce the trace of aging wrinkles and prevent aging.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

1) according to the invention, through deeply analyzing the reasons for aging, various functional components such as Chinese herbal medicine extract, a biotechnology preparation, vitamin derivatives and the like are reasonably compounded, so that the effects of effectively eliminating free radicals, inhibiting non-enzymatic glycosylation reaction, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, reducing skin darkness, color spots and senile plaques, deeply moisturizing, repairing skin barriers, resisting bacteria and diminishing inflammation, supplementing nutrition, enhancing skin immunity, stimulating cells to generate substances such as collagen, hyaluronic acid and small molecular peptides, promoting cell metabolism, and coping with aging by multiple mechanisms with multiple dimensions, multiple links and multiple targets are achieved, and the purposes of skin tightening and aging delaying are achieved.

2) The added active ingredients, namely hyaluronic acid, panthenol, nicotinamide and fibronectin have the effects of enhancing the moisturizing of the product and repairing skin barriers; the Liuwei Zhenbai, the vitamin C ethyl ether, the vitamin E acetate and the inonotus obliquus alcohol extract can clear excessive free radicals, inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin generation, and reduce dark spots, color spots and age pigment; the nicotinamide can repair damaged stratum corneum lipid barrier, improve skin resistance, has strong water-locking and moisturizing effects, and can improve dark yellow skin; the inonotus obliquus alcohol extract has certain inhibiting effect on non-enzymatic glycosylation early saccharification products and advanced saccharification final products, so that the product has the anti-saccharification effect. Fibronectin mobilizes immune cells to phagocytize and remove subcutaneous harmful substances, resists bacteria and inflammation, enhances the immune function of skin, stimulates cells to produce nutrient substances (collagen, hyaluronic acid, small molecular peptides and the like), and promotes cell metabolism; mobilize the nutrient components of other parts of the body to nourish cells, clear the microenvironment of cells, and the like. The biological carbohydrate gum-4 enables the product to have the effects of quickly lifting and firming the skin in a short period of time and effectively blocking pollutants and UV damage to the skin.

3) The skin care product is an oil-in-water type emulsification system, helps to rebuild the function of the skin cuticle, improves the moisture retention and water resistance of the skin, has excellent use feeling, is easy to paint, smooth and not sticky, is easy to be absorbed by the skin, is mild and has no stimulation.

Drawings

Fig. 1 shows photographs of cheeks of a volunteer taken by a facial image analyzer Visia CR before and after one month using the skin care product of the present invention, in which (a1), (a2) are taken before and after the use of the front face, (b1), (b2) are taken before and after the use of the left face, (c1), and (c2) are taken before and after the use of the right face.

Detailed Description

The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, which are not intended to be limiting.

The experimental methods in the following examples are all conventional methods unless otherwise specified, and experimental data are typical representative of the results of the protocols and are used to exemplarily show the effects achieved by the technical protocols of the present invention.

Experimental raw materials and sources thereof:

the Biobase S emulsifier in the phase A is produced by a manufacturer of Kelaien chemical industry (China) Co., Ltd., a product number of 317059 and is prepared by compounding glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol and sodium stearoyl lactylate, wherein the glyceryl stearate accounts for 50-70% of the total mass of the emulsifier, the cetearyl alcohol accounts for 20-30% of the total mass of the emulsifier, and the sodium stearoyl lactylate accounts for 5-15% of the total mass of the emulsifier.

Hydrogenated polyisobutene (Cas #:68937-10-0) in phase A, manufactured by Nippon fat Co., Ltd; polydimethylsiloxane (Cas #:63148-62-9), the manufacturer is Dow chemical (Zhang Home) investment Co., Ltd; caprylic/capric triglyceride (Cas #:73398-61-5), manufacturer is French Dibo company; cyclopenta-polydimethylsiloxane (Cas #:541-02-6), manufacturer is Korea KCC group; polydimethylsiloxane and C16-18 alkyl polydimethylsiloxane crosspolymer, trade name: velvesil DM Silicone (Cas #:756876-51-4), manufacturer is MomentivePerformance Materials Japan LLC; 2, 6-di-tert-butyl-4-methylphenol (Cas #: 128-37-0).

Betaine (Cas #:107-43-7) in phase B, and the manufacturer is DuPont (China) group Co., Ltd; carbomer 2020(Cas #:176429-87-1) was produced by Luborun (USA).

The inonotus obliquus ethanol extract in the C phase is obtained by extracting inonotus obliquus in the Heilongjiang Duyashan, and the extraction method comprises the following steps: accurately weighing 10g of crushed and dried inonotus obliquus, filling the inonotus obliquus into a non-woven fabric filter bag, placing the non-woven fabric filter bag into a Soxhlet extractor, adding 95mL of 95% ethanol water solution, heating and refluxing for extraction for 3h in a water bath at the temperature of more than 95 ℃, cooling to room temperature, and then fixing the volume of an extracting solution to a 100mL volumetric flask to obtain the inonotus obliquus alcohol extracting solution with the original medicinal material content of 100 g/L.

Sodium hyaluronate in phase D, Cas # 9067-32-7, available from Shandong Huaxi Biotech, Inc.; panthenol Cas #:81-13-0, vitamin C ethyl ether Cas #:86404-04-8, vitamin E acetate Cas #:7695-91-2, and nicotinamide Cas #:98-92-0, all purchased from Beijing Beili Rice Biotech GmbH.

The Liuwei Zhenbai in the phase E is purchased from vast Sen Fine chemical Co., Guangzhou, with the product number of NW-01-1069, and is prepared by compounding butanediol, a reed extract, a licorice extract, an angelica extract, a salvia miltiorrhiza root extract, a dogwood fruit extract and a wolfberry root extract, and the components are composed of the following components in percentage by mass: 75-85% of butanediol, 3-6% of reed extract, 2-4% of licorice extract, 1-2% of angelica extract, 1-2% of salvia miltiorrhiza root extract, 1-2% of dogwood fruit extract and 1-2% of lycium barbarum root extract.

Transdermal fibronectin in phase E was produced by Shenzhen Meierjian Biotech Limited at a concentration of 500. mu.g/mL.

The polysaccharide firming agent in the phase E is produced by French Leibeya company, the product number is 300-GLYCLF1, and the polysaccharide firming agent is formed by compounding biological sugar gum-4, 1,3 propylene glycol, alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, sodium alginate and phenoxyethanol, and the components are formed by the following weight percentage: biological carbohydrate gum-445-70%, 1, 3-propanediol 5-15%, alpha-glucan oligosaccharide 5-15%, sodium alginate 1-2%, and phenoxyethanol 1.5%.

PCG in phase E was a mixture of 1, 2-octanediol and 2-phenoxyethanol available from Biochemical industries, Inc. of Nanjing Bye, Cat. No. 150003.

The skin care products in table 1 were prepared as follows:

(1) placing the phase A raw material in a water bath kettle at 75-80 deg.C, stirring for 25-30min to melt the solid substance to obtain mixture A; dispersing carbomer 2020 in phase B in water, adding other materials in phase B, and stirring at 75-80 deg.C for 25-30min to dissolve solid substance to obtain mixture B; and respectively mixing and stirring the raw materials of the phase C, the phase D and the phase E uniformly to obtain a mixture C, a mixture D and a mixture E.

(2) Adding the mixture B and the mixture C into the mixture A, quickly stirring and emulsifying at 75-80 ℃ for 25-30min, then starting to reduce the temperature at a reduced speed, adding the mixture D and the mixture E when the temperature is reduced to 40-45 ℃, uniformly stirring, continuously reducing the temperature to 30-35 ℃, stopping stirring, and discharging to obtain the multi-effect anti-aging skin cream.

In the preparation process forThe sum of the total proportion of all the phases is 100 percentAppropriate amounts of distilled water were added simultaneously with the addition of each phase.

6 experimental samples of S1 to S6 in Table 1 were prepared according to the above procedures, and the specific components and proportions are as shown in Table 1:

TABLE 1

Product performance test

1 organoleptic evaluation

A small amount of samples are taken and placed at room temperature and under direct sunlight, whether the paste is fine and smooth and whether the color is uniform and consistent is visually observed, and whether the smell is pure is identified by olfaction.

2 pH value (pH) test

3g of each sample was weighed and dispersed uniformly at 40. + -. 1 ℃ with 30mL of distilled water. The pH of the aqueous solution was measured at room temperature using a calibrated pH meter.

3 stability test

And respectively placing the sample in a freezing chamber of a refrigerator at the temperature of-10 ℃ and a constant-temperature oven at the temperature of 45 ℃ for 24 hours, taking out the sample, and observing whether the sample has an oil-water separation phenomenon or not after the room temperature is recovered.

4 in vitro efficacy test

The inonotus obliquus ethanol extract is respectively diluted to 10.0, 5.0, 1.0 and 0.1g/L step by step to be used as a solution to be detected.

Weighing 0.5g each of S1-S6 and control D1(DHC multi-element anti-aging cream) and D2 (Eurya anti-aging emulsion), dispersing with distilled water, and metering to 10mL volumetric flasks respectively to obtain solutions to be tested.

4.1 measurement of DPPH.radical scavenging Rate

Adding 3mL of DPPH solution with the amount concentration of the solution to be detected and the substance of 0.2mmol/L into the same test tube with a plug, shaking up, standing in the dark for 30min, and measuring the absorbance A of the mixed solution at 517nm with an ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer_iSimultaneously, the absorbance A of a mixture of 3mL of a solvent and 3mL of a DPPH solution was measured₀And absorbance A obtained by mixing 3mL of solution to be detected with 3mL of absolute ethanol_jThe clearance P is calculated according to equation (1):

P＝[1-(A_i-A_j)/A₀]×100％(1)

4.2 inhibition of tyrosinase

Phosphate Buffer Solution (PBS) with pH of 6.8, 1 g/L-tyrosinase solution and 0.07g/L tyrosinase solution are prepared respectively. Taking 4 test tubes, respectively marking the test tubes as A, B, C, D, wherein 0.5mL of L-tyrosinase solution, 2mL of buffer solution and 2.0mL of tyrosinase solution are added into the A, and 2.5mL of buffer solution and 2.0mL of tyrosinase solution are added into the B; adding 1.5mL of buffer solution, 0.5mL of solution to be detected, 0.5mL of L-tyrosine solution and 2.0mL of tyrosinase solution into the solution C; and D, adding 2.0mL of buffer solution, 0.5mL of solution to be detected and 2.0mL of tyrosinase solution. After shaking up each tube, it was placed in a 37 ℃ water bath for 30min and immediately the absorbance (A) was measured at 475nm with VC as a positive control. Calculation of tyrosinase inhibition I according to formula (2)₁：

I₁＝[1-(C-D)/(A-B)]×100％ (2)

A, B, C, D in formula (2) is the absorbance value of the test sample at 475 nm.

4.3 non-enzymatic glycosylation experiments

Establishment of a reaction system for inhibiting the non-enzymatic glycation of protein:

bovine serum albumin and glucose were dissolved under sterile conditions. Both were dissolved in PBS buffer containing 8mmol/L EDTA, 100U/mL penicillin and 100U/mL streptomycin at 0.1mol/L, pH ═ 7.4, and the final concentrations of bovine serum albumin solution and glucose solution in the system were 20g/L and 400mmol/L, respectively, while setting controls: (1) a complete saccharification reaction system without adding a solution to be detected; (2) bovine serum albumin as a control system; (3) a saccharification system with the liquid to be detected but without bovine serum albumin; (4) adding a saccharification system without adding glucose into the solution to be detected. Drug group: (5) adding the complete saccharification reaction system of the solution to be detected. Incubated in a constant temperature drying oven at 37 ℃ in the dark.

Determination of inhibition of early glycation products (Amadori products):

the reaction system is incubated for 20 days under the condition of keeping out of the light, and then is taken out to test the inhibition effect of the Amadori product. First, 200. mu.L of each reaction solution was placed in a stoppered test tube, 8mL of 0.1g/L NBT solution (prepared from sodium carbonate-sodium bicarbonate buffer solution of 0.1mol/L, pH ═ 10.8) was added thereto, the two were mixed well and placed in a 37 ℃ constant temperature drying oven to react, after 15min, the reaction solution was taken out, 0.4mL of 15% acetic acid was added thereto and the reaction was stopped by a cold water bath, and after about 30min, the absorbance A at 530nm of each reaction solution was measured by an ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometer. The inhibition ratio I of the Amadori product is calculated according to the following formula₂。

I₂＝[1-(A_{Medicine 5}-A_{To 3}-A_{To 4})/(A_{To 1}-A_{To 2})]×100％ (3)

Determination of the inhibitory action on advanced glycation end products (AGEs products):

after the reaction system is incubated for 40 days in the dark, the inhibition of advanced saccharification end product is tested by a fluorescence spectrophotometerThe preparation method comprises the following steps. The fluorescence intensity F of each reaction mixture was measured at an excitation wavelength of 370nm, an emission wavelength of 440nm, and a slit at 5 nm. The inhibition rate I of AGEs products is calculated according to the following formula₃。

I₃＝[1-(F_{Medicine 5}-F_{To 3}-F_{To 4})/(F_{To 1}-F_{To 2})]×100％ (4)

5 human body test

5.1 selection of test personnel

According to the product test requirements, the experimental study subjects are 30 healthy women of 35-60 years old (except for gestational lactation period). No other clinical experiments were participated in within one month prior to the experiment; and no history of active allergy; those without skin diseases such as inflammation; and selecting the skin with obvious aging phenomena such as fine lines, color spots and the like according to the experimental requirements.

5.2 test arrangement

The test protocol was as follows:

1. after cleaning the skin, a proper amount of sample is taken and wiped on the facial skin, and the patient lies in a room for 15 min.

2. The elasticity index R2 of cheek skin before and after each use was measured using a skin elasticity tester Cutometer dual MPA580, and 3 measurements were averaged. The R2 value is the ratio of the amount of skin rebound in the absence of negative pressure to the maximum amount of stretch in the presence of negative pressure. The closer the value of R2 is to 1, the better the skin elasticity is.

3. The Skin gloss measurement Probe Probe Skin-gloss meter GL200 was used to measure the lightness L of cheek Skin before and after each application, and the color shifted to white as the L value was larger, and to black on the contrary. The measurements were averaged 3 times.

4. The moisture of the cheek skin before and after each use was measured using a skin moisture measuring Probe Corneometer CM825 and 10 measurements were averaged.

5. The smoothness of spots, pores and wrinkles at the cheek parts before and after use is analyzed and compared by using a Visia CR facial analyzer to record the left, right and right photos of the volunteers before and after use.

Second, performance test results

Test results of 1. Betulae Alsinoides alcohol extract

TABLE 2 Inonotus obliquus alcoholic extract (IOE) DPPH & free radical clearance (P) and IC₅₀Value of

The DPPH free radical in ethanol solution is dark purple red, has maximum absorption at 517nm, and the absorbance is in linear relation with the concentration. When an antioxidant is added thereto, the antioxidant binds to the lone pair of DPPH.free radical electrons and is reduced to yellow DPPH-H molecules to discolor, the degree of discoloration being quantitatively related to the number of electrons received. Therefore, the ability of the antioxidant to scavenge DPPH.free radicals can be evaluated from the change in absorbance. Table 2 shows the DPPH-free radical clearance P and semi-inhibition concentration IC of Inonotus obliquus (Inonotus obliquus) in the production area of Duck mountain and the positive control (VC)₅₀The value is obtained. As can be seen from the data in the table, the IC thereof₅₀A value of 0.28 g/L; when the content of the raw medicinal materials is 3g/L, the P value exceeds 90 percent. The alcohol extract has better effect of eliminating DPPH free radicals.

Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis. Tyrosinase can catalyze dopa to be converted into dopaquinone in a phosphoric acid solution with the pH value of 6.8, and then melanin is generated through a series of reactions, and the generation amount of the melanin is in direct proportion to the activity of the enzyme. The melanin material has a maximum absorption at 475 nm. The raw material with tyrosinase inhibiting effect can reduce conversion of dopa into dopaquinone, thereby reducing absorbance. Therefore, the activity of the enzyme in the system can be detected according to the change degree of the absorbance. Table 3 shows the tyrosinase inhibition rate (I) of Inonotus obliquus (Fr.) Pilat alcoholic extract and positive control (VC) produced in Duck mountain₁) And half inhibition concentration IC₅₀The value is obtained. As can be seen from the data in the table, the IC thereof₅₀0.73 g/L; at a content of 5g/L, the inhibition ratio I₁Has reached 90%. The alcohol extract has better inhibition effect on tyrosinase.

TABLE 3 inhibition of tyrosinase by Inonotus Obliquus (IOE) alcoholic extract (I)₁) And IC₅₀Value of

TABLE 4 Inonotus obliquus alcohol extract (IOE) inhibition of Amadori product (I)₂)

TABLE 5 inhibition of AGEs production by Inonotus Obliquus Extract (IOE) (I)₃) And IC₅₀Value of

Under the condition of no enzyme catalysis, protein and glucose react in vivo to form early-stage saccharification products such as Schiff base and Amadori products, and further undergo the processes of oxidation, rearrangement, crosslinking and the like to form irreversible non-enzymatic glycosylation advanced saccharification end products AGEs. AGEs are further cross-linked with biological macromolecules such as proteins, nucleic acids, lipids and the like in tissues in vivo and are irreversible, and finally, the functions of AGEs are damaged. When AGEs are combined with collagen or elastin in human skin, skin can be prone to aging such as skin relaxation and loss of elasticity. And the anti-saccharification effect of the active ingredients can be evaluated by adopting in-vitro non-enzymatic saccharification reaction and measuring the inhibition rate of the sample on Amadori products and AGEs products. Inonotus obliquus alcohol extract and Amadori product inhibition rate I of positive control aminoguanidine sulfate₂And inhibition of AGEs products I₃See tables 4 and 5. From the data in the table it can be seen that: the inhibiting rate I of the inonotus obliquus product is 5g/L of the inonotus obliquus alcohol extract₂22.6 percent; inhibition ratio I of AGEs products₃83.9% IC₅₀It was 0.51 g/L. The result shows that the inonotus obliquus alcohol extract has certain inhibiting effect on early products of non-enzymatic saccharification and has better inhibiting effect on final products of advanced saccharification.

2 results of the inventive product

The product of the invention has uniform and fine paste and stable property; the color is light brown; has slight smell of Chinese herbal medicine; the pH value is 6.55-6.67; standing at-10 deg.C and 45 deg.C for 24h to recover room temperature without oil-water separation; the sensory and physicochemical indexes meet the requirements of national skin-moistening cream industry standard QB/T1857-.

3 evaluation of efficacy

In order to compare the contribution of each active ingredient to the inventive product, 6 anti-aging skin cream S1 to S6 in table 1 prepared by gradually adding different active ingredients were subjected to experimental study. Table 6 lists the in vitro efficacy test results of the 6 anti-aging skin creams and the controls D1 and D2 diluted 20 times. The efficacy test comprises DPPH-free radical clearance rate P and tyrosinase inhibition rate I₁Amadori product inhibition rate I for non-enzymatic glycosylation reaction₂And inhibition of AGEs products I₃。

Table 6 efficacy test results for six anti-aging skin cream and control

Six anti-aging skin-moistening creams S1-S6 have DPPH-free radical clearance rate P and tyrosinase inhibition rate I₁The results are shown in Table 6, which shows that the DPPH free radical scavenging rate and tyrosinase inhibition rate of the product gradually increase with the addition of the active ingredient, but the increase is different. Wherein the P value of S2 is increased from 16.7% to 57.0% compared with the base formula S1, and I₁The value is increased from 5.6% to 14.6%, which shows that the functional components (especially vitamin C ethyl ether and vitamin E acetate) added with vitamins have good antioxidation and can also inhibit the activity of tyrosinase; p, I of S3₁The values are respectively increased to 81.3 percent and 27.9 percent, which are increased by 24.3 percent and 13.3 percent compared with S2, thus the addition of the inonotus obliquus alcohol extract can obviously improve the DPPH clearance of the product and also increase the inhibition of tyrosinase activity; p, I of S4₁The values are 89.7 percent and 45.0 percent, which are increased by 8.4 percent and 17.1 percent compared with S3, which shows that the six ingredients have certain antioxidation and better tyrosine inhibitionThe efficacy of the enzyme activity; p, I of S5 after addition of fibronectin₁The values are respectively 92.3% and 52.5%, and are slightly increased compared with S4; both S6 with further addition of the polysaccharide firming agent were not significantly improved, 93.4% and 52.9%, respectively. P, I of controls D1 and D2₁The values were 18.4%, 9.4% and 31.2%, 6.5%, respectively, only between S1 and S2.

Inhibition rate I of six anti-aging skin-moistening creams S1-S6 and reference products D1 and D2 on Amadori product in non-enzymatic saccharification reaction₂And AGEs product inhibition ratio I₃The results are also shown in Table 6. It can be found that the inhibition rate of the product on Amadori products and AGEs products is gradually increased along with the increase of the active ingredients, and the inhibition effect of the product is the best in S6 sample. As can be seen from the amplification after adding each active ingredient, the ethanol extract of Inonotus obliquus which has the largest contribution to the inhibition rate of Amadori products and AGEs products is Inonotus obliquus, and the S3 added with the ethanol extract is respectively increased by 14.0 percent compared with the S2 not added (I)₂) And 25.1% (I)₃) So that the compound has better anti-saccharification effect; the addition of other functional components can also increase the inhibition rate of the product on Amadori products and AGEs products, but the effect of the product is obvious without the inonotus obliquus alcohol extract. I of control group D1₂25.0%, similar to S3; i is₃28.1%, between S1 and S2. I of D2₂35.4%, similar to S5; i is₃46.9%, between S2 and S3.

As can be seen from the table: the product S6 has a DPPH clearance rate of 93.4 percent, a tyrosinase inhibition rate of 52.9 percent, and inhibition rates of Amadori products and AGEs products in non-enzymatic glycosylation reaction of 40.5 percent and 83.9 percent respectively, and the measured indexes are far higher than those of a control sample.

4. Human body test result

4.1 skin tester test example results

The average values of the changes in the values of elasticity, lightness and moisture content of the cheek skin before and after 1 month of the use of S6 (product of the invention) in 30 volunteers are shown in table 7. As can be seen from the data in the table, the values of skin elasticity, glossiness and moisture content are increased after the product is used. Wherein the elasticity value R2 is increased by 0.06, the skin color brightness L is increased by 8.5, and the water content is increased by 10.6%. The product of the invention can improve the complexion, increase the moisture content and elasticity of the skin in a short time.

TABLE 7 variation of skin elasticity, gloss, moisture content values

4.2 example wrinkle improvement in cheek skin of volunteers

Fig. 1 shows photographs of cheeks of a female volunteer with an age of 45 years dry skin taken by a facial image analyzer Visia CR before and after one month using the product of the present invention (product S6), before use (a1) and after use (a2) on the front face, before use (b1) on the left face, after use (b2) on the right face, before use (c1) and after use (c2) on the right face. As can be seen by comparing the skin conditions of the face before and after the product is used, after 1 month, fine lines of the cheek skin of the volunteer basically disappear, deep wrinkles are obviously reduced, the brightness of the skin is obviously improved, pores are reduced, and the reddened skin is also obviously improved.

Other parallel embodiments

Based on the above tests, the invention properly expands the proportion of each component, as shown in table 8, and the product performance tests as described above are carried out on the obtained product, and the obtained results are not significantly different from the results of the product of S6.

TABLE 8

Claims

1. The application of the inonotus obliquus extract in preparing multi-effect skin anti-aging products is characterized in that the inonotus obliquus extract is inonotus obliquus alcohol extract, and each liter of the extract contains 100g of raw medicinal materials in terms of the raw medicinal material dosage.

2. A multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is characterized by comprising a phase A raw material, a phase B raw material and a phase C raw material, wherein:

the phase B raw material comprises 4-6 parts by weight of glycerol, 1.5-2.5 parts by weight of betaine, 0.04-0.06 part by weight of carbomer 20200.18, 0.5-3.5 parts by weight of ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid and 2.5-3.5 parts by weight of propylene glycol; the weight percentage of the phase B raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 8.22-12.28%, and preferably 10.25%.

3. The multi-effect anti-aging skin care product according to claim 2, further comprising a phase D raw material, wherein the phase D raw material comprises 0.08-0.12 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate, 0.4-0.6 part by weight of panthenol, 0.4-0.6 part by weight of vitamin C ethyl ether, 0.4-0.6 part by weight of vitamin E acetate, 0.4-0.6 part by weight of nicotinamide, and 18-22 parts by weight of water; the weight percentage of the phase D raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 19.68-24.52%, and is preferably 22.1%.

4. The multi-effect anti-aging skin care product according to claim 2, further comprising an E phase raw material, wherein the E phase raw material comprises 1.8 to 2.2 parts by weight of Liuwei Zhen Bai, 0.9 to 1.1 parts by weight of transdermal fibronectin, 1.8 to 2.2 parts by weight of polysaccharide firming agent and 1 part by weight of PCG; the weight percentage of the phase E raw material in the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is 5.4-6.6%, and the preferred weight percentage is 6%.

5. The multi-effect anti-aging skin care product is characterized by comprising the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 20.315-25.725% of phase A raw material, 8.22-12.28% of phase B raw material, 8.18-12.22% of phase C raw material, 19.68-24.52% of phase D raw material, 5.4-6.6% of phase E raw material and the balance of water;

the C phase material contains Inonotus obliquus extract and triethanolamine; the inonotus obliquus extract is inonotus obliquus alcohol extract, and each liter of extract contains 100g of raw medicinal materials by the dosage of the raw medicinal materials;

the phase D raw material comprises sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, vitamin C ethyl ether, vitamin E acetate, nicotinamide and water;

6. The multi-effect anti-aging skin care product according to claim 5, characterized by consisting of the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 23.02% of phase A raw material, 10.25% of phase B raw material, 10.2% of phase C raw material, 22.1% of phase D raw material and 6% of phase E raw material, and the balance being water.

7. The method for preparing the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product of any one of claims 2 to 6, comprising the steps of:

8. The preparation method according to claim 7, wherein the multi-effect anti-aging skin care product further comprises the D-phase raw material and the E-phase raw material;

mixing the D-phase raw materials to obtain a mixture D; mixing the E-phase raw materials to obtain a mixture E;