CN109106677B - Composition with whitening function and application thereof - Google Patents
Composition with whitening function and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN109106677B CN109106677B CN201811158937.6A CN201811158937A CN109106677B CN 109106677 B CN109106677 B CN 109106677B CN 201811158937 A CN201811158937 A CN 201811158937A CN 109106677 B CN109106677 B CN 109106677B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
- A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
- A61K8/988—Honey; Royal jelly, Propolis
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9706—Algae
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
- A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly discloses a composition with a whitening function, which can be applied to whitening cosmetics. The composition with a whitening function comprises: comprises propolis extract, dried orange peel extract and epidermal growth factor, and the weight ratio of the propolis extract to the dried orange peel extract is (1-5): (0.5-3): (0.01-0.5). The natural and non-irritant substance is used as the raw material of the whitening composition, the skin is conditioned and maintained through the synergistic effect of the components, and the whitening composition has the effects of diminishing inflammation, resisting allergy, resisting oxidation, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, regulating the structure of stratum corneum and promoting cell regeneration, so that the effects of whitening the skin, improving the glossiness and the transparency of the skin and improving the dry, dark, yellow and lusterless skin problems of people are achieved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, relates to a compound natural composition, and particularly relates to a composition with a whitening function, which can be applied to whitening cosmetics.
Background
Historically, people have begun to apply various animal and plant formulations to the face or body to keep the skin white and tender by the time of the junior. The fourteen queen Louis France is washed with wine, and the current scientific theory is that the wine contains tartaric acid, so that the skin can be changed chemically. In Asia, people's white pursuit reaches the demented place, namely ' white-one semen-hiding ', and in ancient times, some palaces are beauty-treated to whiten skin by using mercury-containing compounds.
In recent 30 years, with the development of beauty medicine, the demand of consumers for skin whitening cosmetics is increasing, and people are forced to search skin whitening active matters without cytotoxicity, including some traditional cosmetic components such as lactic acid and fruit acid; some new cosmetic components, such as ferulic acid, arbutin, asafetida extract, etc. But the whitening products in the prior art still have the defects of high cytotoxicity, strong side effect, unobvious effect and the like.
Disclosure of Invention
The present invention aims to solve the above problems and provide a safer, more effective and more stable whitening composition based on natural sources.
The purpose of the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a composition with whitening effect comprises propolis extract, pericarpium Citri Tangerinae extract and epidermal growth factor.
The composition with the whitening function comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: the weight ratio of the propolis extract to the dried orange peel extract to the epidermal growth factor is (1-5): (0.5-3): (0.01-0.5).
Whitening is a permanent topic, and the whitening product generally adopts the following components in the design of the traditional idea:
(1) the transfer of melanin in keratinocyte to horny layer and the exfoliation of horny layer are accelerated, for example, the use of fruit acid, salicylic acid, vitamin A acid and the like can promote the metabolism of epidermal cells, accelerate the transfer of melanin in keratinocyte to horny layer and accelerate the exfoliation of horny layer, thereby achieving the effect of whitening. However, the effect on the skin is the largest, and after the cutin is peeled off, the new skin is exposed, is relatively easy to be stimulated by the outside and is sensitive.
(2) Inhibiting tyrosinase activity, and blocking synthesis of dopa and dopaquinone, such as arbutin and kojic acid derivatives.
(3) The melanin can be reduced to colorless form, such as vitamin C, and has effects of remarkably removing acquired melanin deposition, resisting oxidation, and scavenging free radicals.
(4) Inhibiting the transfer of melanin granules to keratinocytes, such as niacinamide, inhibits the transfer of melanin granules through the axon to keratinocytes, thereby reducing melanin in the epidermis.
However, some human skin is dry and dark, and looks little shiny, even has a little yellowish feeling. In fact, the melanin of their skin may not be abundant. Therefore, melanin inhibiting ingredients such as arbutin and niacinamide are far from effective in whitening skin. The skin is mainly characterized in that the stratum corneum is irregularly arranged, and a lot of light enters the skin to generate diffuse reflection, so that direct reflected light is reduced, and the vision is dark. This dull complexion is mainly caused by the breakdown of subcutaneous collagen, which affects the arrangement of the stratum corneum. In order to solve the skin whitening problem, the invention designs a composition with a whitening function by the following thought:
(1) before the whitening products are made, ingredients with anti-inflammatory and anti-allergy effects are considered, and melanin is generated at the same time or after the skin generates inflammation. The propolis extract adopted by the invention has multiple functions of antibiosis, antiphlogosis, itching relieving and the like, and the component can reinforce the skin line and is an important approach for whitening; meanwhile, the propolis extract also has the functions of strong antioxidation and tyrosinase activity inhibition.
(2) The dried orange peel is derived from mature pericarp of citrus reticulata blanco and cultivated varieties of citrus reticulata blanco of Rutaceae, is a traditional Chinese herbal medicine with homology of medicine and food in China, is bitter and pungent in taste, warm in nature, enters lung and spleen channels, and has the effects of regulating qi, strengthening spleen, eliminating dampness and reducing phlegm. The medicinal materials are classified into pericarpium citri reticulatae and pericarpium citri reticulatae, wherein the quality of the pericarpium citri reticulatae is the best, and the pericarpium citri reticulatae is the genuine medicinal material of Xinhui pericarpium citri reticulatae. The dried orange peel is prepared by picking mature fruits, peeling peel, and drying in the sun or at low temperature, wherein the air drying time is usually more than one year. The dried orange peel contains flavonoid compounds, alkaloids, volatile oil, polysaccharide, various chemical components such as trace elements necessary for human bodies and the like, has the effects of oxidation resistance, inflammation resistance, allergy resistance, tumor resistance and the like, and has wide application and utilization prospect in medicine and pharmacology. At present, the dried orange peel is used as a medicine or used in food, but is rarely used in cosmetics. The dried orange peel extract adopted by the invention has the effects of oxidation resistance, inflammation resistance and allergy resistance, and can regulate the structure of the horny layer, improve the activity of desmosome protein and keratin, and enable the surface of the horny layer to become flat and have tension, thereby changing optical reflection and enabling the skin to look transparent and glossy.
(3) The epidermal growth factor adopted by the invention generates physiological signals, stimulates the healthy and benign hyperplasia of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, promotes the synthesis of keratin, various collagens and mucins, enhances the elasticity and smoothness of skin, can resist the generation of wrinkles, influences the arrangement of the horny layer and makes the skin white and glossy.
The composition with the whitening function has the synergistic effect of the three components, can achieve the effects of whitening skin, improving the glossiness and the permeability of the skin, and finally realizes three-dimensional whitening with 'luster, permeability and white skin' as a whole.
The weight percentage content of the flavone in the dried orange peel extract is 70-95%.
The preparation method of the dried orange peel extract comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing and crushing dried orange peel: weighing pericarpium Citri Tangerinae, pulverizing, and sieving;
(2) extraction: adding the dried orange peel crushed in the step (1) into an extraction solvent for soaking, adding citric acid accounting for 0.1-0.5% of the total mass of the dried orange peel and the extraction solvent, simultaneously assisting with ultrasound, heating to 50-60 ℃ for extraction, extracting for 2-3 times (2-3 h each time), filtering, combining filtrates, and concentrating under reduced pressure until the amount of the extraction solvent is 10-20% to obtain a filtrate;
(3) and (3) drying: and (3) freeze-drying the filtrate obtained in the step (2) to obtain the dried orange peel extract.
The extraction solvent is at least one of ethanol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol with the mass fraction of 30-50%.
Preferably, the extraction solvent is a mixture of ethanol and ethylene glycol or ethanol and propylene glycol, and the mass ratio of ethanol to ethylene glycol or ethanol to propylene glycol is 5: 1-2: 1.
preferably, the dried orange peel extract is a Xinhui dried orange peel extract.
The storage year of the dried orange peel is 3-6 years.
The power of the ultrasonic wave is 200-500W.
The material-liquid ratio of the dried orange peel to the extraction solvent is as follows: 1: 10-1: 50.
preferably, the ratio of the dried orange peel to the extraction solvent is: 1: 20-1: 30.
the total flavone content in the dried orange peel extract is extremely high, and the dried orange peel extract plays an important role in resisting inflammation, resisting allergy and relieving skin, and also contains a small amount of alkaloid, volatile oil, polysaccharide and trace elements, and the multi-components have synergistic effect, so that the activity of desmosome protein and keratin can be improved, the surface of a cuticle layer becomes flat and has tension, and the skin is transparent and glossy.
The method for measuring flavone content in pericarpium Citri Tangerinae extract comprises preparing standard curve of flavone content-absorbance (A) with rutin as reference, and finding out corresponding flavone content from the standard curve according to the measured A value, and comprises the following steps:
(1) spectrophotometric establishment of standard samples
Accurately weighing 0.0997g rutin standard sample in a beaker, adding methanol, dissolving in 40 deg.C water bath under slightly heating, cooling to room temperature, placing in a 100ml volumetric flask, adding methanol to scale, and shaking. Accurately weighing 10ml, placing in a 100ml volumetric flask, adding water to dilute to scale, and shaking up to obtain a standard solution of 0.100 mg/ml.
(2) Establishment of a Standard Curve
Accurately measuring standard solutions of 0ml, 0.5ml, 1.0ml, 2.0ml, 3.0ml, 4.0ml and 5.0ml in a 10ml volumetric flask, adding distilled water to a constant volume of 5ml, adding 5% sodium nitrite solution of 0.3ml, shaking up, standing for 6-8 minutes, adding 10% aluminum nitrate solution of 0.3ml, shaking up, standing for 6-8 minutes, adding 1mol/L sodium hydroxide solution of 4ml, adding distilled water to dilute to a scale, shaking up, standing for 20 minutes, measuring the absorbance at 500nm, taking an average value in parallel for 3 times, and drawing a standard curve.
(3) Determination of total flavone content in dried orange peel extract
Weighing 0.1g of dried orange peel extract, metering the volume to a 100ml volumetric flask by using methanol, taking 1.0ml of sample liquid to a 10ml volumetric flask, measuring the absorbance at 500nm according to the method in the step (2), and calculating the content of flavone in the dried orange peel extract according to the standard curve obtained in the step (2).
The composition with the whitening function can also comprise plant extracts.
The plant extract is at least one of green tea extract, chamomile extract, snow lotus extract, aloe extract, purslane extract, mulberry root bark extract, ginseng extract, astragalus extract and seaweed extract.
The composition with the whitening function can also comprise a humectant, a penetration enhancer and an ultraviolet absorbent.
The humectant is at least one of ceramide, hyaluronic acid, allantoin, trehalose, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, alpha-mannitol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, hydroxyethyl carbamide, pentaerythritol, xylitol and sorbitol.
The penetration assisting agent is azone.
The ultraviolet absorbent is at least one of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane, benzophenone and hexyl ethyl methoxycinnamate.
The invention also provides application of the composition with the whitening function in cosmetics, and the composition with the whitening function can be added into the cosmetics as a whitening component, wherein the addition amount of the composition with the whitening function accounts for 0.5-20% of the mass of the cosmetics.
The composition with the whitening function can be used in whitening cosmetics to prepare the whitening cosmetics with stable property and good effect, wherein the addition amount of the composition in a cosmetic formula is 0.5-20% by mass fraction, and preferably the addition amount of the composition in the cosmetic formula is 5-10% by mass fraction.
The formulation of the whitening cosmetic is not particularly limited, and may be a toner, a gel, a lotion, a cream, a mask, a facial cleanser, or the like.
The skin care cosmetic with the whitening composition as a main component comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
a phase material: balance of deionized water
5-15% of humectant
0.1 to 1 percent of thickening agent
1-5% of propolis extract
B phase material: 6 to 20 percent of oily raw material
2 to 10 percent of emulsifier
C phase raw material: 0.5 to 3 percent of dried orange peel extract
3-6% of butanediol or propylene glycol
D phase material: 0.01 to 0.5 percent of epidermal growth factor
0.2 to 0.5 percent of preservative
0.5 to 2 percent of permeation assistant agent
The method comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing the raw materials of each phase according to the weight percentage;
(2) mixing and uniformly stirring the components of the phase A, adding the mixture into a water phase pot, heating to 80-85 ℃, and sterilizing at constant temperature for 25-35 minutes for later use;
(3) adding the components of the phase B into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 70-75 ℃, preserving heat for 15-25 minutes to ensure that the solid oil is completely dissolved, and sterilizing at constant temperature;
(4) under the vacuum stirring state, firstly pumping one fourth to one half of phase A into an emulsifying pot, then pumping all phase B into the emulsifying pot, pumping the rest phase A into the emulsifying pot, and homogenizing for 3-5 minutes at 70-80 ℃;
(5) heating the phase C component to 35-45 ℃ for dissolving, cooling to 36-40 ℃, adding into an emulsifying pot, and stirring uniformly;
(6) and when the temperature in the emulsifying pot is reduced to 30-35 ℃, sequentially adding the D-phase components, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
The oil raw material is one or a combination of more of squalane, polydimethylsiloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, glyceryl monostearate, isopropyl myristate, liquid paraffin, cetostearyl alcohol, beeswax, olive oil, shea butter, isopropyl myristate, isohexadecane, isododecane, jojoba oil and wheat germ oil.
The emulsifier is one or more of ceteareth, glucoside, steareth and PEG hydrogenated castor oil.
The thickener is at least one of carbomer, acrylate copolymer, xanthan gum, cellulose, xanthan gum and gelatin.
The preservative is one or more of phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, parabens, DMDM hydantoin and imidazolidinyl urea.
The invention has the advantages that:
1. the skin whitening composition adopts the components with the skin whitening function, and under the reasonable and optimized proportion, the skin is conditioned and maintained through the synergistic effect of the components, so that the effects of diminishing inflammation, resisting allergy, strong antioxidation, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, regulating and controlling the structure of stratum corneum and promoting cell regeneration are achieved, the effects of whitening the skin, improving the skin glossiness and the permeability are achieved, and the skin problems of dry and dark skin and yellow and lusterless skin of people are improved.
2. The composition disclosed by the invention does not contain chemically synthesized substances, has no toxic or side effect, is nonirritant to skin, stable in property, safe and reliable; the product has high stability and long-lasting effect when being mixed with other raw materials in cosmetics.
The following examples are given by way of illustration of whitening cosmetics, but are not limited thereto, and the whitening cosmetics comprising propolis extract, dried orange peel extract and epidermal growth factor proposed in the present invention are all applicable to the present invention.
The present invention is further illustrated by the following examples.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described with reference to the following examples.
Example 1: preparation of dried orange peel extract
The preparation method of the dried orange peel extract comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing and crushing Xinhui dried orange peel: weighing 1g of Xinhui dried orange peel, crushing and sieving;
(2) extraction: adding the dried orange peel crushed in the step (1) into 20ml of 50% by mass of an extraction solvent for soaking, wherein the extraction solvent consists of ethanol and ethylene glycol, and the mass ratio of the ethanol to the ethylene glycol is 3: 1, adding 0.1g of citric acid, simultaneously adding ultrasound, heating to 55 ℃ for extraction, extracting for 3 times, each time for 2 hours, filtering, combining filtrates, and concentrating under reduced pressure until the amount of an extraction solvent is 10% to obtain a filtrate;
(3) and (3) drying: and (3) freeze-drying the filtrate obtained in the step (2) to obtain a light yellow tangerine peel extract.
The method for measuring flavone content in pericarpium Citri Tangerinae extract comprises preparing standard curve of flavone content-absorbance (A) with rutin as reference, and finding out corresponding flavone content from the standard curve according to the measured A value, wherein the flavone content in the pericarpium Citri Tangerinae extract is 83.2%.
Example 2: preparation of dried orange peel extract
The preparation method of the dried orange peel extract comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing and crushing Xinhui dried orange peel: weighing 1g of Xinhui dried orange peel, crushing and sieving;
(2) extraction: adding the dried orange peel crushed in the step (1) into 30ml of extraction solvent with the mass fraction of 50%, and soaking, wherein the extraction solvent consists of ethanol and propylene glycol, and the mass ratio of the extraction solvent to the propylene glycol is 5: 1, adding 0.1g of citric acid, simultaneously adding ultrasound, heating to 60 ℃ for extraction, extracting for 3 times, each time for 3 hours, filtering, combining filtrates, and concentrating under reduced pressure until the amount of an extraction solvent is 15% to obtain a filtrate;
(3) and (3) drying: and (3) freeze-drying the filtrate obtained in the step (2) to obtain a light yellow tangerine peel extract.
The method for measuring flavone content in pericarpium Citri Tangerinae extract comprises preparing standard curve of flavone content-absorbance (A) with rutin as reference, and finding out corresponding flavone content from the standard curve according to the measured A value, wherein the flavone content in the pericarpium Citri Tangerinae extract is 90.6%.
Example 3: preparation of dried orange peel extract
The preparation method of the dried orange peel extract comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing and crushing Xinhui dried orange peel: weighing 1g of Xinhui dried orange peel, crushing and sieving;
(2) extraction: adding the dried orange peel crushed in the step (1) into 25ml of 40% by mass of an extraction solvent for soaking, wherein the extraction solvent consists of ethanol and propylene glycol, and the mass ratio of the ethanol to the propylene glycol is 3: 1, adding 0.08g of citric acid, simultaneously adding ultrasound, heating to 60 ℃ for extraction, extracting for 3 times, each time for 3 hours, filtering, combining filtrates, and concentrating under reduced pressure until the amount of an extraction solvent is 10% to obtain a filtrate;
(3) and (3) drying: and (3) freeze-drying the filtrate obtained in the step (2) to obtain a light yellow tangerine peel extract.
The method for measuring flavone content in pericarpium Citri Tangerinae extract comprises preparing standard curve of flavone content-absorbance (A) with rutin as reference, and finding out corresponding flavone content from the standard curve according to the measured A value, wherein the flavone content in the pericarpium Citri Tangerinae extract is 86.9%.
Example 4: whitening emulsion formula
The formulations of example 4 and comparative examples 1 to 4 are shown in the above table, the formulations of comparative examples 1 to 3 are shown in the above table, and do not contain propolis extract, dried orange peel extract or epidermal growth factor, respectively, and comparative example 4 does not contain propolis extract, dried orange peel extract and epidermal growth factor, and contains arbutin, a whitening agent. The preparation methods of example 4 and comparative examples 1 to 4 include the following steps:
(1) weighing the raw materials of each phase according to the weight percentage;
(2) mixing the components of phase A, stirring, adding into water phase pot, heating to 80 deg.C, sterilizing at constant temperature for 30 min;
(3) adding the components of the phase B into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, preserving heat for 20 minutes to ensure that the solid oil is completely dissolved, and sterilizing at constant temperature;
(4) under the state of vacuum stirring at 150-;
(5) heating the phase C component to 35-45 ℃ for dissolving, cooling to 36-40 ℃, adding into an emulsifying pot, and stirring uniformly;
(6) and when the temperature in the emulsifying pot is reduced to 30-35 ℃, sequentially adding the D-phase components, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
Example 5: formula of whitening mask
The preparation method comprises the following steps: (1) dissolving the phase A and a part of deionized water at 50-60 ℃ in advance, and cooling to room temperature;
(2) stirring the phase C and the rest deionized water on a magnetic stirrer for 30min, controlling the temperature at 25 ℃ and fully dissolving the phase C and the rest deionized water in the water;
(3) adding the phase C into the phase A at room temperature under continuous stirring, stirring for 10-15 minutes, then sequentially adding the components in the phase B, stirring for 10-15 minutes, and finally adding the phase D and stirring uniformly to obtain a mask stock solution;
(4) and (3) sterilizing for 10-15 minutes at 20-25 ℃ by adopting plasma.
Example 6: formula of whitening essence
The preparation method comprises the following steps: (1) dissolving the phase A and a part of deionized water at 50-60 ℃, adding the phase D under continuous stirring, adjusting the viscosity of the phase A, and cooling to room temperature;
(2) mixing the components of phase C, stirring, adding into water phase pot, heating to 80 deg.C, sterilizing at constant temperature for 30 min;
(3) adding the components of the phase B into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃, preserving heat for 20 minutes to ensure that the solid oil is completely dissolved, and sterilizing at constant temperature;
(4) under the condition of vacuum stirring at 150-200 rpm, firstly pumping half of phase C into an emulsifying pot, then pumping all phase B into the emulsifying pot, pumping the rest phase C into the emulsifying pot, homogenizing at 75 ℃ for 5 minutes, cooling and reducing the stirring speed, then adding the mixed material in the step (1), and uniformly stirring;
(5) and when the temperature in the emulsifying pot is reduced to 30-35 ℃, sequentially adding the E-phase components, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
Example 7: whitening and moisturizing gel formula
The preparation method comprises the following steps: dissolving the phase A at 50-60 ℃, cooling to room temperature, adding the phase B into the phase A under continuous stirring, and finally adding the phase C.
Test example 1: oxidation resistance test
The test substance: the whitening emulsions prepared in example 4 and comparative examples 1 to 4;
the contents of the experimenter are as follows: adding 4.0mL (0.02 mg/mL) of an absolute ethyl alcohol solution of DPPH and 2.0mL (3mg/mL) of each sample of absolute ethyl alcohol dilution in sequence into a 10mL colorimetric tube, adding absolute ethyl alcohol to the scale, and immediately mixing, namely measuring the light absorption value (A) at the wavelength of 517nm by using a 1cm cuvette, wherein the light absorption value is marked as AiMeasuring light absorption value after being stored at room temperature in dark place for 30min, and recording as AjThe control test is a DPPH-only ethanol solution, and the absorbance is recorded as Ac. The radical clearance (K) was calculated as follows: k (%) - (1- (a)i-Aj)/Ac]100%. The free radical clearance is detected, the average value of three measurements is taken, and the test results are shown in the following table:
| sample (I) | K(％) |
| Example 4 | 85.6 |
| Comparative example 1 | 42.8 |
| Comparative example 2 | 37.4 |
| Comparative example 3 | 78.3 |
| Comparative example 4 | 15.2 |
As can be seen from the above table, the composition with whitening function of the present invention has the highest radical scavenging rate in example 4, and the absence of each component in the composition causes the radical scavenging rate to decrease.
Test example 2: skin irritation/Corrosion test
The test substance: example 4 and comparative examples 1 to 4;
experimental animals: selecting 50 healthy rabbits with the weight of 80-220g and half female and half male;
the contents of the experimenter are as follows: the hair on the two sides of the spine of the rabbit is cut off in about 24 hours before the test, the epidermis is not damaged, and the hair-removed area is 3cm multiplied by 3 cm. Taking 0.5g each of the whitening cosmetics, directly applying on skin, covering with two layers of gauze (2.5 cm × 2.5 cm) and a layer of cellophane, fixing with adhesive tape, and using the other side of skin as control. Removing whitening cosmetics after 4h application, washing off residual test substances by clear water, observing local skin reaction of the tested part after 1, 24, 48 and 72h of removing the test substances, scoring skin reaction according to skin irritation/corrosion test of technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition), performing comprehensive evaluation by using the average value of the scores of the tested animals, and observing toxic and side effects except irritation.
And (3) test results: the highest integral mean value of each observation time point in the test is less than 0.5, and the test is nonirritating, namely, the skin irritation test result is as follows: has no irritation. Therefore, the whitening emulsion provided by the invention is mild to skin, and is non-toxic and non-irritant.
Test example 3: test for melanin inhibiting Properties
50 female volunteers aged 18-50 years were randomly divided into five groups of 10 individuals each. The test subjects cleaned the inner side of the arms and scrubbed clean with wet gauze (deionized water), the water temperature was room temperature, after cleaning, measurement marks were made on the inner sides of the forearms of both hands of the test subjects, the test areas were spaced at 1cm intervals, each test area was 4cm x 4cm, no cosmetic product was used 2-3 days before the test site, the whitening lotions of example 4 and comparative examples 1-4 were used on the inner sides of the forearms, respectively, the test subjects used once a day for 30 days, and no other product was used during the test period. Under the conditions of the ambient temperature of 25 +/-1 ℃ and the humidity of 50 +/-5%, the melanin content of the inner skin of the forearm of the user is measured by a MEXAMETER MX 16 skin pigment analyzer 1 day before the user uses the whitening emulsion and 30 days after the continuous use, each area is measured in parallel for five times to obtain an average value, and then the whitening effect of the product is evaluated. The results of the melanin inhibition results obtained are given in the following table:
| sample (I) | Melanin inhibition ratio (%) |
| Example 4 | 67 |
| Comparative example 1 | 32 |
| Comparative example 2 | 45 |
| Comparative example 3 | 54 |
| Comparative example 4 | 37 |
Test example 4: performance testing of whitening emulsions
50 female volunteers aged 18-50 years and having dark yellow and lusterless faces were randomly divided into five groups of 10 persons each, face of trial part was arbitrarily selected as 1 experimental group and 4 control groups, and the whitening emulsions of example 4 and control examples 1-4 were used after cleaning the skin in the morning and evening every day for 30 days. The total score of the using effect of each item is 5, and 5 is the highest score, so that the score is better and very satisfactory; 4, the classification is very good; 3 is acceptable; 2, the classification is not good and cannot be accepted; 1 score is very poor and completely intolerable. The results are shown in the following table:
| example 4 | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Comparative example 3 | Comparative example 4 | |
| Whitening property | 4.8 | 3.2 | 3.5 | 3.9 | 3.5 |
| Degree of irritation | 4.6 | 4.0 | 4.1 | 4.3 | 3.6 |
| Moisture retention | 4.5 | 4.0 | 4.0 | 4.2 | 3.4 |
| Gloss of skin | 4.3 | 3.6 | 3.2 | 3.0 | 2.1 |
| Sense of skin permeability | 4.6 | 3.5 | 3.2 | 3.1 | 2.8 |
As can be seen from the above table, example 4, which is a composition having a whitening function according to the present invention, not only has excellent whitening and moisturizing properties, but also imparts excellent gloss and a transparent feeling to the skin, which is significantly superior to those of comparative examples 1 to 3; arbutin, a whitening agent used in comparative example 4, had a certain whitening effect on the skin, but was significantly less effective than the whitening emulsion of example 4, and had little effect on improving skin glossiness and transparency.
Claims (9)
1. The composition with the whitening function is characterized by comprising a propolis extract, a dried orange peel extract and an epidermal growth factor, wherein the weight ratio of the propolis extract to the dried orange peel extract to the epidermal growth factor is (1-5): (0.5-3): (0.01-0.5), wherein the weight percentage of the flavone in the dried orange peel extract is 70-95%.
2. The composition with whitening function according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the preparation method of the dried orange peel extract comprises the following steps:
(1) weighing and crushing dried orange peel: weighing pericarpium Citri Tangerinae, pulverizing, and sieving;
(2) extraction: adding the dried orange peel crushed in the step (1) into an extraction solvent for soaking, adding citric acid accounting for 0.1-0.5% of the total mass of the dried orange peel and the extraction solvent, simultaneously assisting with ultrasound, heating to 50-60 ℃ for extraction, extracting for 2-3 times (2-3 h each time), filtering, combining filtrates, and concentrating under reduced pressure until the amount of the extraction solvent is 10-20% to obtain a filtrate;
(3) and (3) drying: and (3) freeze-drying the filtrate obtained in the step (2) to obtain the dried orange peel extract.
3. The composition with whitening function according to claim 1 or 2, which is characterized in that: the pericarpium Citri Tangerinae extract is pericarpium Citri Tangerinae extract of Xinhui province.
4. The composition with whitening function according to claim 2, which is characterized in that: the extraction solvent is a mixture of ethanol and glycol or ethanol and propylene glycol, and the mass ratio of ethanol to glycol or ethanol to propylene glycol is 5: 1-2: 1.
5. the composition with whitening function according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the composition with the whitening function also comprises a humectant, a penetration enhancer and an ultraviolet absorbent;
the humectant is at least one of ceramide, hyaluronic acid, allantoin, trehalose, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, alpha-mannitol, glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, hydroxyethyl carbamide, pentaerythritol, xylitol and sorbitol;
the penetration assisting agent is azone;
the ultraviolet absorbent is at least one of 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane, benzophenone and hexyl ethyl methoxycinnamate.
6. The composition with whitening function according to claim 1, which is characterized in that: the composition with the whitening function also comprises a plant extract.
7. The composition with whitening function according to claim 6, which is characterized in that: the plant extract is at least one of green tea extract, chamomile extract, snow lotus extract, aloe extract, purslane extract, mulberry root bark extract, ginseng extract, astragalus extract and seaweed extract.
8. The composition with the whitening function according to claim 1, wherein the composition with the whitening function is used in a whitening cosmetic, and the addition amount of the composition in a formula of the whitening cosmetic is 0.5-20% by mass.
9. The composition with whitening function according to claim 8, wherein the whitening cosmetic is in the form of a toner, a gel, a lotion, a cream, a mask or a facial cleanser.
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| CN110251429A (en) * | 2019-06-10 | 2019-09-20 | 江门职业技术学院 | Application of the dried orange peel extracts in oil-control cosmetic |
| CN110251427A (en) * | 2019-06-10 | 2019-09-20 | 江门职业技术学院 | A kind of plant multiple-effect composition and its application |
| CN111419747A (en) * | 2020-04-18 | 2020-07-17 | 北温草生物科技(上海)有限公司 | Chinese herbal medicine composition for whitening and brightening skin |
| CN111700836A (en) * | 2020-07-24 | 2020-09-25 | 嘉文丽（福建）化妆品有限公司 | Composition capable of improving skin color and whitening skin and skin care product containing composition |
| CN112587456B (en) * | 2020-12-25 | 2023-04-07 | 上海林清轩生物科技有限公司 | Repairing and whitening composition and preparation method thereof |
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