CN107663688A - 一种镂空面料及其制造工艺 - Google Patents

一种镂空面料及其制造工艺 Download PDF

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CN107663688A
CN107663688A CN201710762434.9A CN201710762434A CN107663688A CN 107663688 A CN107663688 A CN 107663688A CN 201710762434 A CN201710762434 A CN 201710762434A CN 107663688 A CN107663688 A CN 107663688A
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cotton
alkali soluble
yarn
silk
hollow
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蔡文言
陈涛
赵红玉
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SUNVIM GROUP CO Ltd
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SUNVIM GROUP CO Ltd
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Priority to CN201710762434.9A priority Critical patent/CN107663688A/zh
Priority to US15/813,125 priority patent/US10626525B2/en
Priority to AU2017261549A priority patent/AU2017261549A1/en
Priority to JP2018006132A priority patent/JP2019044317A/ja
Publication of CN107663688A publication Critical patent/CN107663688A/zh
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种镂空面料及其制造工艺,所述镂空面料是采用棉混纺纱和碱溶涤纶丝按一定规律排列作为经纱；采用棉混纺弹力纱和碱溶涤纶丝按一定规律排列作为纬纱交织而成坯布后，经碱溶去除碱溶涤纶丝得到的。将40支棉混纺纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按10:2的排列比例作为经纱；将40支棉混纺弹力纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按6:2的排列比例作为纬纱；交织而成平纹布；将所述平纹布碱溶去除碱溶涤纶丝得到网孔胚布；将网孔坯布经煮漂、加软烘干步骤得到所述镂空面料。本发明优选的纱线配比、优选的煮漂工艺、优选的精练助剂、以及优选的加软烘干工艺，赋予产品柔软、滑爽、蓬松的手感，吸湿透气的性能，提高了服用性能和舒适度。

Description

一种镂空面料及其制造工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织技术领域，具体涉及一种镂空面料技术。
背景技术
床上用品与人们的生活关系十分密切，现有的床品多数是普通组织组成，外观一致陈旧，四季用床上用品只是颜色和面料厚薄区分，组织没有变化，这种普通的床品散热透气性差。因此根据市场需要开发一种新型组织镂空面料，用作床上用品，布面呈现规律的网孔，易散热透气、易洗快干，尤其适合夏季使用。
发明内容
本发明所要解决的第一个技术问题是：针对现有技术存在的不足，提供一种布面呈现规律的网孔、易散热透气，且柔软蓬松、洗后快干、易打理的镂空面料。
本发明所要解决的第二个技术问题是：针对现有技术存在的不足，提供一种布面呈现规律的网孔、易散热透气，且柔软蓬松、洗后快干、易打理的镂空面料的制备方法。
为解决上述第一个技术问题，本发明的技术方案是：
一种镂空面料，所述镂空面料是采用棉混纺纱和碱溶涤纶丝按一定规律排列作为经纱；采用棉混纺弹力纱和碱溶涤纶丝按一定规律排列作为纬纱交织而成坯布后，经碱溶去除碱溶涤纶丝得到的。
作为改进的一种技术方案，所述棉混纺纱和碱溶涤纶丝按照10:2的排列比例作为经纱，所述棉混纺弹力纱和碱溶涤纶丝按照6:2的排列比例作为纬纱交织而成坯布。
作为改进的一种技术方案，作为经纱的棉混纺纱是由棉与莫代尔混纺成的40支棉混纺纱；作为纬纱的棉混纺弹力纱是由棉、莫代尔与舒弹丝混纺成的40支棉混纺弹力纱；所述碱溶涤纶丝为75D合股碱溶涤纶丝。
作为进一步改进的技术方案，所述40支棉混纺纱中棉与莫代尔的混纺比为65:35；所述40支棉混纺弹力纱中棉、莫代尔与舒弹丝的混纺比为55:35:10。
作为另一种改进的技术方案，作为经纱的棉混纺纱是由棉与涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤混纺成的40支棉混纺纱；作为纬纱的棉混纺弹力纱是由棉、涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤与舒弹丝混纺成的40支棉混纺弹力纱；所述碱溶涤纶丝为75D合股碱溶涤纶丝。
为解决上述第二个技术问题，本发明的技术方案是：
一种镂空面料的制备工艺，包括以下步骤：
(1)将40支棉混纺纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按10:2的排列比例作为经纱；将40支棉混纺弹力纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按6:2的排列比例作为纬纱；交织而成平纹布；
(2)将所述平纹布使用含有36波美度的火碱25～35ml/L的火碱溶液、温度为100～110℃,蒸煮40～60分钟碱溶去除75D合股碱溶涤纶丝得到网孔胚布；
(3)将网孔坯布经煮漂、加软烘干步骤得到所述镂空面料。
作为改进的一种技术方案，将棉与莫代尔纤维按照65:35的混纺比经开清棉、梳理、并条、粗纱、细纱混纺成40支棉混纺纱作为经纱；将棉、莫代尔与舒弹丝按照55:35:10的混纺比混纺成40支棉混纺弹力纱作为纬纱；将碱溶涤纶丝纤维经并纱、倍捻制成75D合股碱溶涤纶丝。
作为另一种改进的技术方案，将棉与涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤按照50:15：35的混纺比经开清棉、梳理、并条、粗纱、细纱混纺成40支棉混纺纱作为经纱；将棉、涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤与舒弹丝按照40:15:35:10的混纺比混纺成40支棉混纺弹力纱作为纬纱；将碱溶涤纶丝纤维经并纱、倍捻制成75D合股碱溶涤纶丝。
采用色纤织造，不仅在浆纱过程更容易区分和控制，而且省去了后续的染色工序。
作为改进的一种技术方案，所述煮漂步骤中的煮漂液中含有36波美度的火碱溶液10～15ml/L、30wt％的双氧水8～15ml/L、烷基聚乙二醇醚混合物精炼剂1～2ml/L、多功能前处理剂4～7ml/L、有机络合剂0.5～3.5ml/L，煮漂温度为98～101℃,煮漂时间为35～45分钟。
作为再进一步改进的技术方案，所述烷基聚乙二醇醚混合物精炼剂为精炼剂FORYL EPD-C；所述多功能前处理剂为多功能前处理剂STABILOL NC；所述有机络合剂为有机络合剂SECURON CD。
作为改进的一种技术方案，所述加软烘干步骤中的柔软剂工作液中含有：有机硅亲水柔软剂25～35g/L，使用中和酸调节pH值为4.5～7.5，烘干温度为110～130℃，车速为15～25m/min。
作为再进一步改进的技术方案，所述有机硅亲水柔软剂为超级亲水柔软剂TEXMACROSILK PRIME DA-60；所述中和酸为中和酸AD-1。
各种助剂的含量是指在其所在的工作液中的加入量。
作为一种改进的技术方案，75D合股碱溶涤纶丝用单独两片综，单独一列停经片控制；区别于普通的顺穿。
其中，精炼剂FORYL EPD-C、多功能前处理剂STABILOL NC和有机络合剂SECURONCD优选使用科凯精细化工(上海)有限公司生产的。柔软剂优选使用青岛欧诺思工贸有限公司生产的超级亲水柔软剂TEXMACROSILK PRIME DA-60。
由于采用了上述技术方案，本发明的有益效果是：
本发明的镂空面料，所述镂空面料是采用棉混纺纱和碱溶涤纶丝按一定规律排列作为经纱；采用棉混纺弹力纱和碱溶涤纶丝按一定规律排列作为纬纱交织而成坯布后，经碱溶去除碱溶涤纶丝得到的。碱溶涤纶丝耐高温，可整经浆纱，经纱两种不同材料可在同一经轴织造，碱溶涤纶丝经碱处理后可融化掉，布面呈规则的小格子网孔，易散热透气，且柔软蓬松、洗后快干、易打理。
本发明产品有良好的柔软舒适性能、优异的吸湿排汗性能，比其它棉制品手感柔软舒适，天然的透气孔增加了透气性；而工艺简单可靠，便于工业化生产。
本发明作为经纱的棉混纺纱是由棉与莫代尔按照65:35的混纺比混纺成的40支棉混纺纱；作为纬纱的棉混纺弹力纱是由棉、莫代尔与舒弹丝按照55:35:10的混纺比混纺成的40支棉混纺弹力纱；所述碱溶涤纶丝为75D合股碱溶涤纶丝；优选所述棉混纺纱和碱溶涤纶丝按照10:2的排列比例作为经纱，所述棉混纺弹力纱和碱溶涤纶丝按照6:2的排列比例作为纬纱；以上参数经过本申请发明人大量反复的实验得出，采用以上棉混纺比例时，既能保留棉的舒适，兼顾莫代尔的柔软滑爽、吸湿透气性特点，以及良好的弹力性能，又可以提高纱线的可纺性。
本发明优选的煮漂工艺，优选的精练助剂，以及优选的加软烘干工艺，赋予产品柔软、滑爽、蓬松的手感，提高服用性能和舒适度。
附图说明
下面结合附图和实施例对本发明进一步说明。
图1是本发明实施例的穿综图；
图2是本发明实施例的纹版图；
图3为本发明实施例1的实物效果图。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和实施例，进一步阐述本发明。应理解，这些实施例仅用于说明本发明而不用于限制本发明的范围。此外应理解，在阅读了本发明讲授的内容之后，本领域技术人员可以对本发明作各种改动或修改，这些等价形式同样落于本申请所附权利要求书所限定的范围。
实施例1
一种镂空面料，所述镂空面料是采用40支棉混纺纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按照10:2的排列比例作为经纱，40支棉混纺纱为混纺比为65:35的棉与莫代尔混纺成的；采用40支棉混纺弹力纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按照6:2的排列比例作为纬纱，40支棉混纺弹力纱由混纺比为55:35:10的棉、莫代尔与舒弹丝混纺成的；经纱和纬纱交织成坯布后，经碱溶去除75D合股碱溶涤纶丝后得到的。
实施例2
一种镂空面料，所述镂空面料是采用40支棉混纺纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按照10:2的排列比例作为经纱，40支棉混纺纱为棉与涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤按照50:15：35的混纺比混纺成的；采用40支棉混纺弹力纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按照6:2的排列比例作为纬纱，40支棉混纺弹力纱由棉、涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤与舒弹丝按照40:15:35:10的混纺比混纺成的；经纱和纬纱交织成坯布后，经碱溶去除75D合股碱溶涤纶丝后得到的。
实施例3
将棉和莫代尔分别纺成条，将棉条和莫代尔纤维条用并条机合并成棉混纺条，经粗纱、细纱、络筒成40支棉混纺纱筒子纱，将75D碱溶涤纶丝进行合股定型，提高其可织性。采用40支棉混纺纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按照10:2的排列比例作为经纱，40支棉混纺纱为混纺比为65:35的棉与莫代尔；采用40支棉混纺弹力纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按照6:2的排列比例作为纬纱，40支棉混纺弹力纱由混纺比为55:35:10的棉、莫代尔与舒弹丝。75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按照合同量设置米数，不可破筒，否则在破筒过程中极易出现扭结，也会出现磨纱、刮纱现象。
整经用卡尔迈也V型整经机，在分批整经机上设置张力器打开延时时间为8秒，确保整经机从停止状态到正常运行无打捻现象，正常开车后纱线无张力，保证纱层张力一致性。
浆纱时，为保证不同纱线在同一纱层上张力一致，走双槽单面，75D合股碱溶涤纶丝轴单独在B槽，棉混纺轴在A槽。另外在B槽中单独加入食用色来区分75D合股碱溶涤纶丝，避免找错纱。
织造时棕片数为6片，75D合股碱溶涤纶丝单独两片综框和单独一排停经片控制，断线后不会找错纱；如图1和图2所示的穿综图和纹版图，经、纬纱交织成为平纹布。
将平纹布依序进行碱溶、煮漂、染色、加软烘干，最后进行缝纫制成镂空产品：碱溶使用含有36波美度的火碱，加入量为28ml/L、温度为108℃,蒸煮55分钟碱溶去除碱溶涤纶丝得到网孔胚布；所述煮漂步骤中的煮漂液中含有36波美度火碱溶液12ml/L、30wt％双氧水10ml/L、精炼剂FORYL EPD-C 1.2ml/L、多功能前处理剂STABILOL NC 5ml/L、有机络合剂SECURON CD 1.5ml/L，煮漂温度为100℃,煮漂时间为45分钟。染色采用huntsman染料REDSE 0.1％、YELLOW SE 0.2％、BLUE SE 0.25％染色，温度102℃，汽蒸90s；所述加软烘干步骤中的柔软剂工作液为：超级亲水柔软剂TEXMACROSILK PRIME DA-60加入量28g/L，利用中和酸调节pH值为5.5，烘干温度为120℃，车速为20m/min。
其中，精炼剂FORYL EPD-C、多功能前处理剂STABILOL NC和有机络合剂SECURONCD优选使用科凯精细化工(上海)有限公司生产的。柔软剂优选使用青岛欧诺思工贸有限公司生产的超级亲水柔软剂TEXMACROSILK PRIME DA-60。
实施例4
将棉和莫代尔色纤混合纺出生条-预并纺出预并条A，将棉、和涤纶色纤混合纺出生条-预并纺出预并条B,预并条A与预并条B并纺出熟条，经粗纱、细纱(赛络纺)、自络筒成40支棉混纺纱筒子纱做经纱；其中棉与涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤按照50:15：35的混纺比；将棉和莫代尔色纤混合纺出生条-预并纺出预并条A，将棉、舒弹丝和涤纶色纤混合纺出生条-预并纺出预并条B,预并条A与预并条B并纺出熟条，经粗纱、细纱(赛络纺)、自络筒成40支棉混纺弹力纱筒子纱做纬纱筒子纱；其中棉、涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤与舒弹丝按照40:15:35:10的混纺比。将75D碱溶涤纶丝进行合股定型，提高其可织性。采用棉混纺纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按照10:2的排列比例作为经纱；采用40支棉混纺弹力纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按照6:2的排列比例作为纬纱。75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按照合同量设置米数，不可破筒，否则在破筒过程中极易出现扭结，也会出现磨纱、刮纱现象。
整经用卡尔迈也V型整经机，在分批整经机上设置开车、停车延时时间为8秒；正常开车后纱线无张力，保证纱层张力一致性。
浆纱时，为保证不同纱线在同一纱层上张力一致，走双槽双面，75D合股碱溶涤纶丝轴单独在B槽，棉混纺轴在A槽。
织造时棕片数为6片，75D合股碱溶涤纶丝单独两片综框和单独一排停经片控制，断线后不会找错纱；如图1和图2所示的穿综图和纹版图，经、纬纱交织成为平纹布。
将平纹布依序进行碱溶、煮漂、加软烘干，最后进行缝纫制成镂空产品：碱溶使用含有36波美度的火碱加入量为32ml/L、温度为105℃,蒸煮45分钟碱溶去除碱溶涤纶丝得到网孔胚布；所述煮漂步骤中的煮漂液中含有36波美度的火碱溶液14ml/L、30wt％双氧水12ml/L、精炼剂FORYL EPD-C 1.5ml/L、多功能前处理剂STABILOL NC 6ml/L、有机络合剂SECURON CD 2.5ml/L，煮漂温度为99℃,煮漂时间为40分钟。所述加软烘干步骤中的柔软剂工作液为：超级亲水柔软剂TEXMACROSILK PRIME DA-60加入量30g/L，利用中和酸调节pH值为6.0，烘干温度为125℃，车速为22m/min。
其中，精炼剂FORYL EPD-C、多功能前处理剂STABILOL NC和有机络合剂SECURONCD优选使用科凯精细化工(上海)有限公司生产的。柔软剂优选使用青岛欧诺思工贸有限公司生产的超级亲水柔软剂TEXMACROSILK PRIME DA-60。

Claims (10)

1.一种镂空面料，其特征在于：所述镂空面料是采用棉混纺纱和碱溶涤纶丝按一定规律排列作为经纱；采用棉混纺弹力纱和碱溶涤纶丝按一定规律排列作为纬纱交织而成坯布后，经碱溶去除碱溶涤纶丝得到的。
2.如权利要求1所述的镂空面料，其特征在于：所述棉混纺纱和碱溶涤纶丝按照10:2的排列比例作为经纱，所述棉混纺弹力纱和碱溶涤纶丝按照6:2的排列比例作为纬纱交织而成坯布。
3.如权利要求1所述的镂空面料，其特征在于：作为经纱的棉混纺纱是由棉与莫代尔混纺成的40支棉混纺纱；作为纬纱的棉混纺弹力纱是由棉、莫代尔与舒弹丝混纺成的40支棉混纺弹力纱；所述碱溶涤纶丝为75D合股碱溶涤纶丝。
4.如权利要求3所述的镂空面料，其特征在于：所述40支棉混纺纱中棉与莫代尔的混纺比为65:35；所述40支棉混纺弹力纱中棉、莫代尔与舒弹丝的混纺比为55:35:10。
5.如权利要求1所述的镂空面料，其特征在于：作为经纱的棉混纺纱是由棉与涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤混纺成的40支棉混纺纱；作为纬纱的棉混纺弹力纱是由棉、涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤与舒弹丝混纺成的40支棉混纺弹力纱；所述碱溶涤纶丝为75D合股碱溶涤纶丝。
6.如权利要求1所述的镂空面料的制备工艺，其特征在于包括以下步骤：
(1)将40支棉混纺纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按10:2的排列比例作为经纱；将40支棉混纺弹力纱和75D合股碱溶涤纶丝按6:2的排列比例作为纬纱；交织而成平纹布；
(2)将所述平纹布使用含有36波美度的火碱25～35ml/L的火碱溶液、温度为100～110℃,蒸煮40～60分钟碱溶去除75D合股碱溶涤纶丝得到网孔胚布；
(3)将网孔坯布经煮漂、加软烘干步骤得到所述镂空面料。
7.如权利要求6所述的镂空面料的制备工艺，其特征在于：将棉与莫代尔纤维按照65:35的混纺比混纺成40支棉混纺纱作为经纱；将棉、莫代尔与舒弹丝按照55:35:10的混纺比混纺成40支棉混纺弹力纱作为纬纱；将碱溶涤纶丝纤维经并纱、倍捻制成75D合股碱溶涤纶丝。
8.如权利要求6所述的镂空面料的制备工艺，其特征在于：将棉与涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤按照50:15：35的混纺比混纺成40支棉混纺纱作为经纱；将棉、涤纶色纤、莫代尔色纤与舒弹丝按照40:15::35:10的混纺比混纺成40支棉混纺弹力纱作为纬纱；将碱溶涤纶丝纤维经并纱、倍捻制成75D合股碱溶涤纶丝。
9.如权利要求6所述的镂空面料的制备工艺，其特征在于：所述煮漂步骤中的煮漂液中含有36波美度的火碱溶液10～15ml/L、30wt％的双氧水8～15ml/L、烷基聚乙二醇醚混合物精炼剂1～2ml/L、多功能前处理剂4～7ml/L、有机络合剂0.5～3.5ml/L，煮漂温度为98～101℃,煮漂时间为35～45分钟。
10.如权利要求6所述的镂空面料的制备工艺，其特征在于：所述加软烘干步骤中的柔软剂工作液中含有：有机硅亲水柔软剂25～35g/L，调节pH值为4.5～7.5，烘干温度为110～130℃，车速为15～25m/min。
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