CN107059399A - 硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬及其生产方法 - Google Patents

硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬及其生产方法 Download PDF

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CN107059399A
CN107059399A CN201710315824.1A CN201710315824A CN107059399A CN 107059399 A CN107059399 A CN 107059399A CN 201710315824 A CN201710315824 A CN 201710315824A CN 107059399 A CN107059399 A CN 107059399A
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曹平
王春梅
张宝庆
黄�俊
朱红耀
李南南
曾燕
黄新华
姜伟
吴亮亮
杨静新
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SHANGHAI TEXTILE INDUSTRY TECHNOLOGY SUPERVISION INSTITUTE
NANTONG HAIHUI GARMENT ACCESSORIES Co Ltd
Nantong University
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SHANGHAI TEXTILE INDUSTRY TECHNOLOGY SUPERVISION INSTITUTE
NANTONG HAIHUI GARMENT ACCESSORIES Co Ltd
Nantong University
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬及其生产方法，生产工艺流程依次包括坯布翻缝、烧毛、精练、漂白、涤增白热定形、防缩硬挺整理、粉点涂层、质量检验等步骤；粘合衬的抗弯强度≧12cm，游离和水解的甲醛≤120mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为 ‑0.8%～+0.5%，剥离强力≧20N。本发明的产品的生产方法易操作，对环境友好，产品安全性能达到GB18401《国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范》C类:非直接接触皮肤的产品的要求。

Description

硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬及其生产方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种粘合衬及其生产方法。
背景技术
西服的主胸衬、挺胸衬、挺肩衬，裤子的腰衬等服装生产中，都要使用硬挺衬。衬布硬挺度越高，则服装挺括性、弹性和立体感越好。高档西服、裤子等服装生产中使用优良品质的生态友好的硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬，既可提升服装品种，又可增强服装的舒适性和安全性。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种粘合衬的抗弯强度≧12cm，游离和水解的甲醛≤120mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为 -0.8%～+0.5%，剥离强力≧20N的硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬及其生产方法。
本发明的技术解决方案是：
一种硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬，其特征是：粘合衬的抗弯强度≧12cm，游离和水解的甲醛≤120mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为 -0.8%～+0.5%，剥离强力≧20N。
一种硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬的生产方法，其特征是：依次包括坯布翻缝、烧毛、精炼、漂白、涤增白热定形、防缩硬挺整理、粉点涂层步骤；防缩硬挺整理时，防缩硬挺整理液的组成为：
醚化改性六羟树脂M—6 500～700g/L
10%PVA 150～250g/L
分散蓝2BLN 0.0025g/L
普拉红10B 0.005g/L
MgCl2·6H2O 25～35g/L
乙烯脲 4～6 g/L
PH 4.0～5.0
防缩硬挺整理时通过平幅进布，二浸一轧防缩整理液，140～ 160℃松式烘燥，超喂1.0% ～2.0％上针板，八格热风焙烘，其中第一格温度 165℃，第二格温度 170℃，第三～四格温度 180℃，第五～八格温度 190℃，两个锡林冷却落布步骤。
粉点涂层处理依次包括平幅进布、1号油热辊180-200℃预热、2号油热辊200～220℃预热、雕刻辊PE热熔胶粉点涂层、雕刻辊内通40～65℃的热水循环、3号油热辊230～250℃加热、拉幅定形、温度≤ 25℃水冷却、卷装步骤；雕刻辊目数：30或33 目/英寸；织物粉点涂层量35～40g/m2，防止反面渗透；粉点涂层过程中，不能出现跳粉、漏点、半粒头；进布速度为 18～22m/min。
坯布的规格为：涤/棉65/35，门幅为 48.5 英寸、纱支数为 21s×21s、密度为 60×58根/英寸，纯涤纶坯布的规格为：门幅为 48.5 英寸、纱支数为20s×10s/2、密度为56×44根/英寸。
本发明的粘合衬粘合衬的抗弯强度≧12cm，游离和水解的甲醛≤120mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为 -0.8%～+0.5%，剥离强力≧20N，理化性能达到服装外衣用粘合衬优等品质量指标。本发明的产品的生产方法易操作，对环境友好，产品安全性能达到GB18401《国家纺织产品基本安全技术规范》C类:非直接接触皮肤的产品的要求。
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
具体实施方式
实施例1：
一种硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬，粘合衬的抗弯强度≧12cm，游离和水解的甲醛≤120mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为 -0.8%～+0.5%，剥离强力≧20N。
涤/棉（65/35)坯布的规格为：门幅为 48.5 英寸、纱支数为 21s×21s、密度为 60×58根/英寸。
生产工艺流程依次包括坯布翻缝、烧毛、精练、漂白、涤增白热定形、防缩硬挺整理、粉点涂层、质量检验等步骤；防缩硬挺整理是最关键的生产技术，其防缩硬挺整理的组成为：
醚化改性六羟树脂M—6 500g/L
PVA(10%) 250g/L
分散蓝2BLN 0.0025g/L
普拉红10B 0.005g/L
MgCl2·6H2O 25g/L
乙烯脲 4～6g/L
PH 5.0
防缩硬挺整理时通过平幅进布，二浸一轧防缩整理液，140～ 160℃松式烘燥，超喂1.0% ～2.0％上针板，八格热风焙烘，其中第一格温度 165℃，第二格温度 170℃，第三～四格温度 180℃，第五～八格温度 190℃，两个锡林冷却落布步骤。
粉点涂层处理依次包括平幅进布、1号油热辊180-200℃预热、2号油热辊200～220℃预热、雕刻辊PE热熔胶粉点涂层、雕刻辊内通40～65℃的热水循、3号油热辊230～250℃加热、拉幅定形、温度≤ 25℃水冷却、卷装步骤；雕刻辊目数：33目/英寸；织物粉点涂层量35～40g/m2，防止反面渗透；粉点涂层过程中，不能出现跳粉、漏点、半粒头；进布速度为 18～22m/min。
依据GB/T18318-2009《纺织品 弯曲性能的测定》第1部分:斜面法、GB/T2912.1《纺织品 甲醛的测定》游离和水解的甲醛（水萃取法、FZ/T01084-2009 《热熔粘合衬水洗后的外观及尺寸变化试验方法》、FZ/T01085-2009 《热熔粘合衬剥离强力试验方法》四个标准方法，测定的涤/棉硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬性能：弯强度14cm，游离和水解的甲醛108mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为 -0.6%，剥离强力22N。
实施例2：
一种硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬，粘合衬的抗弯强度≧12cm，游离和水解的甲醛≤120mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为 -0.8%～+0.5%，剥离强力≧20N。
纯涤纶坯布的规格为：门幅为 48.5 英寸、纱支数为20s×10s/2、密度为56×44根/英寸。
生产工艺流程依次包括坯布翻缝、烧毛、精练、漂白、涤增白热定形、防缩硬挺整理、粉点涂层、质量检验等步骤；防缩硬挺整理是最关键的生产技术，其防缩硬挺整理的组成为：
醚化改性六羟树脂M—6 700g/L
10%PVA 150g/L
分散蓝2BLN 0.0025g/L
普拉红10B 0.005g/L
MgCl2·6H2O 35g/L
乙烯脲 4～6 g/L
PH 4.0
防缩硬挺整理时通过平幅进布，二浸一轧防缩整理液，140～ 160℃松式烘燥，超喂1.0% ～2.0％上针板，八格热风焙烘，其中第一格温度 165℃，第二格温度 170℃，第三～四格温度 180℃，第五～八格温度 190℃，两个锡林冷却落布步骤。
粉点涂层处理依次包括平幅进布、1号油热辊180-200℃预热、2号油热辊200～220℃预热、雕刻辊PE热熔胶粉点涂层、雕刻辊内通40～65℃的热水循、3号油热辊230～250℃加热、拉幅定形、温度≤ 25℃水冷却、卷装步骤；雕刻辊目数：30 目/英寸；织物粉点涂层量35～40g/m2，防止反面渗透；粉点涂层过程中，不能出现跳粉、漏点、半粒头；进布速度为 18～22m/min。
依据GB/T18318-2009《纺织品 弯曲性能的测定》第1部分:斜面法、GB/T2912.1《纺织品 甲醛的测定》游离和水解的甲醛（水萃取法、FZ/T01084-2009 《热熔粘合衬水洗后的外观及尺寸变化试验方法》、FZ/T01085-2009 《热熔粘合衬剥离强力试验方法》四个标准方法，测定纯涤纶硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬性能：弯强度15cm，游离和水解的甲醛70mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为 -0.5%，剥离强力31N。

Claims (4)

1. 一种硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬，其特征是：粘合衬的抗弯强度≧12cm，游离和水解的甲醛≤120mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为 -0.8%～+0.5%，剥离强力≧20N。
2. 一种权利要求1所述硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬的生产方法，其特征是：依次包括坯布翻缝、烧毛、精练、漂白、涤增白热定形、防缩硬挺整理、粉点涂层步骤；防缩硬挺整理时，防缩硬挺整理液的组成为：
醚化改性六羟树脂M—6 500～700g/L
10%PVA 150～250g/L
分散蓝2BLN 0.0025g/L
普拉红10B 0.005g/L
MgCl2·6H2O 25～35g/L
乙烯脲 4～6 g/L
PH 4.0～5.0
防缩硬挺整理时通过平幅进布，二浸一轧防缩整理液，140～ 160℃松式烘燥，超喂1.0% ～2.0％上针板，八格热风焙烘，其中第一格温度 165℃，第二格温度 170℃，第三～四格温度 180℃，第五～八格温度 190℃，两个锡林冷却落布步骤。
3. 根据权利要求2所述的硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬的生产方法，其特征是：粉点涂层处理依次包括平幅进布、1号油热辊180-200℃预热、2号油热辊200～220℃预热、雕刻辊PE热熔胶粉点涂层、雕刻辊内通40～65℃的热水循环、3号油热辊230～250℃加热、拉幅定形、温度≤ 25℃水冷却、卷装步骤；雕刻辊目数：30或33 目/英寸；织物粉点涂层量35～40g/m2，防止反面渗透；粉点涂层过程中，不能出现跳粉、漏点、半粒头；进布速度为 18～22m/min。
4. 根据权利要求2所述的硬挺度特高的机织粘合衬的生产方法，其特征是：坯布的规格为：涤/棉65/35，门幅为 48.5 英寸、纱支数为 21s×21s、密度为 60×58根/英寸，纯涤纶坯布的规格为：门幅为 48.5 英寸、纱支数为20s×10s/2、密度为56×44根/英寸。
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