CN105696375B - 纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬及其生产方法 - Google Patents

纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬及其生产方法 Download PDF

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CN105696375B
CN105696375B CN201610256605.6A CN201610256605A CN105696375B CN 105696375 B CN105696375 B CN 105696375B CN 201610256605 A CN201610256605 A CN 201610256605A CN 105696375 B CN105696375 B CN 105696375B
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曹平
李南南
朱红耀
曾燕
黄�俊
姜伟
黄新华
吴亮亮
王婷
张鹏飞
杨静新
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NANTONG HAIHUI GARMENT ACCESSORIES Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开一种纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬及其生产方法，生产流程包括翻缝、精练、染色、化学防缩整理、黑色HDPE粉光亮涂层、机械预缩等步骤。粘合衬涂层表面黑色光亮，粘合衬与有色薄型服装面料粘合后，不会产生白色发亮的热熔胶小点问题，提高了服装品质。外观检验时能很容易地检出漏点、漏涂等疵点，确保服装企业不发生因使用疵点粘合衬制成产品产生降等损失。粘合衬的游离和水解甲醛≤35mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为‑0.8%～+0.5%。本发明生产方法易操作，对环境友好，产品性能优异。

Description

纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬及其生产方法
技术领域
本发明涉及一种纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬及其生产方法。
背景技术
涂有白色PE粉纯棉粘合衬与有色薄型服装面料粘合后，在粘合处的服装面料上可以看到白色发亮的热熔胶小点，严重影响服装品质。另外，常规生产粘合衬，涂层表面暗淡，外观检验时，漏点、漏涂等疵点有时不容易全部检验出，服装企业使用含有未检出疵点粘合衬制成服装后，会产生品质降等损失。
发明内容
本发明目的在于提供一种涂层表面黑色光亮，粘合衬与有色薄型服装面料粘合后，不会产生白色发亮的热熔胶小点问题，外观检验时能很容易地检出漏点、漏涂等疵点，确保服装企业不发生因使用疵点粘合衬制成产品产生降等损失，游离和水解甲醛≤35mg/kg，经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为 -0.8%～+0.5%的纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬及其生产方法。
本发明的技术解决方案是 ：
一种纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬，其特征是：涂层表面黑色光亮；游离和水解甲醛≤35mg/kg；经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为-0.8%～+0.5%。
衬布的坯布规格为下列二种中的一种：第一种门幅为 48.5 英寸、纱支数为 20s×20s、密度为 60×60根/英寸，第 二种门幅为 48.5 英寸、纱支数为 40 s×40s、密度为58×50根/英寸。
一种纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬的生产方法，依次包括翻缝、精练、染色、 化学防缩整理、黑色HDPE粉光亮涂层、机械预缩步骤，其特征是 ：染灰色时，采用还原染料染色，染液组成为 ：还原黑 BCN 6.5g/L，还原橄榄绿T 4.4g/L，还原红 F3B 0.46g/L，其余为水 ；还原液组成为：氢氧化钠 26～30g/L，85％含量的保险粉 24～28g/L，其余为水；染色工艺流程与条件为：平幅进布→均匀轧车浸轧染液→两排红外线预烘→两组70～80℃热风预烘→一组12只锡林烘干→落布→均匀轧车浸轧还原液→102℃下还原蒸箱汽蒸 2min→两格5～30℃冷水洗→透风氧化→用含27.5％双氧水 0.5～1g/L的氧化液氧化→用浓度2～3g/L的皂煮剂进行两格皂煮→六格平洗槽逐格倒流水洗，每格温度分别为90～95℃、80～90℃、70～80℃、70～80℃、60～70℃、5～30℃冷流水→5～30℃冷水洗→两排共24只锡林烘干→落布；染黑色时，采用活性染料冷轧堆染色，染液组成：活性黑LC—G 76.0g/L，活性红LC—DB3.4g/L，活性橙LC—4RN0.5g/L；碱液组成 ：烧碱 35g/L，低温冷堆固色碱EW-956 35g/L；染色工艺为：染液与碱液4 ：1比例混合，轧液率 65%，车速 55～60m/min，室温堆置16～24h；染色后处理工艺为：进布→第一、二、三格流动冷水洗→第四、五格95～98℃，加防沾皂洗剂ANT 2～3g/L皂煮→第六格70～80℃水洗→第七格流动冷水水洗→落布。
织物化学防缩整理时，防缩整理液的组成为：
抗皱整理剂 RESIN BRT 40 g/L
Arkofix NDF liqc 80～100 g/L
MgCl2·6H2O 12～14 g/L
乙烯脲 4.0g/L
非离子柔软剂V-12 4.0 g/L
其余为水，并用柠檬酸调pH 至4.0～4.5；
化学防缩整理时通过平幅进布，二浸二轧防缩整理液，带液率 65%～70%，110～130℃松式烘燥，超喂 2%～4％上针板，八格热风焙烘，其中第一格温度 150℃，第二格温度160℃，第三～八格温度 170℃，两个锡林冷却落布步骤 , 车速为30～45m/min。
黑色HDPE粉光亮涂层处理依次包括平幅进布、1号油热辊225-245℃预热、2号油热辊220～240℃预热、雕刻辊黑色HDPE热熔胶（上海贝莱特塑胶有限公司HDPE热熔胶（黑色）0—200MY）粉点涂层、3号油热辊230～250℃加热、采用功率为3000～4500W的红外管进行红外烘融、镜面辊轧光、拉幅定形、温度≤ 25℃水冷却、卷装步骤 ；雕刻辊目数：30、33 目/英寸 ；织物粉点涂层量23～29g/m2，防止反面渗透 ；粉点涂层过程中，不能出现跳粉、漏点、半粒头 ；黑色HDPE热熔胶粉点涂层时，雕刻辊内通105-110℃的热水循环；轧光辊内通65～85℃的热水循环；进布速度为 18～22m/min。
本发明粘合衬涂层表面黑色光亮，粘合衬与有色薄型服装面料粘合后，不会产生白色发亮的热熔胶小点问题，提高了服装品质；外观检验时能很容易地检出漏点、漏涂等疵点，确保服装企业不发生因使用疵点粘合衬制成产品产生降等损失；粘合衬经纬向缩水率小，游离和水解甲醛低，对环境友好，生产方法易操作。
下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步说明。
实施例1：
衬布的坯布规格为：门幅为 48.5 英寸、纱支数为 20s×20s、密度为 60×60根/英寸。
一种纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬的生产方法，依次包括翻缝、精练、染色、 化学防缩整理、黑色HDPE粉光亮涂层、机械预缩步骤；染灰色时，采用还原染料染色，染液组成为：还原黑 BCN 6.5g/L，还原橄榄绿T 4.4g/L，还原红 F3B 0.46g/L，其余为水 ；还原液组成为：氢氧化钠 26～30g/L，85％含量的保险粉 24～28g/L，其余为水；染色工艺流程与条件为：平幅进布→均匀轧车浸轧染液→两排红外线预烘→两组70～80℃热风预烘→一组12只锡林烘干→落布→均匀轧车浸轧还原液→102℃下还原蒸箱汽蒸 2min→两格5～30℃冷水洗→透风氧化→用含27.5％双氧水 0.5～1g/L的氧化液氧化→用浓度2～3g/L的皂煮剂进行两格皂煮→六格平洗槽逐格倒流水洗，每格温度分别为90～95℃、80～90℃、70～80℃、70～80℃、60～70℃、5～30℃冷流水→5～30℃冷水洗→两排共24只锡林烘干→落布。
织物化学防缩整理时，防缩整理液的组成为：
抗皱整理剂 RESIN BRT 40 g/L
Arkofix NDF liqc 90～100 g/L
MgCl2·6H2O 13～14 g/L
乙烯脲 4.0g/L
非离子柔软剂V-12 4.0 g/L
其余为水，并用柠檬酸调pH 至4.0～4.3；
化学防缩整理时通过平幅进布，二浸二轧防缩整理液，带液率 65%～70%，110～130℃松式烘燥，超喂 2%～4％上针板，八格热风焙烘，其中第一格温度 150℃，第二格温度160℃，第三～八格温度 170℃，两个锡林冷却落布步骤 , 车速为30～40m/min。
黑色HDPE粉光亮涂层处理依次包括平幅进布、1号油热辊225-245℃预热、2号油热辊220～240℃预热、雕刻辊黑色HDPE热熔胶（上海贝莱特塑胶有限公司HDPE热熔胶（黑色）0—200MY）粉点涂层、3号油热辊230～250℃加热、采用功率为4500W的红外管进行红外烘融、镜面辊轧光、拉幅定形、温度≤ 25℃水冷却、卷装步骤 ；雕刻辊目数：30目/英寸 ；织物粉点涂层量27～29g/m2，防止反面渗透 ；粉点涂层过程中，不能出现跳粉、漏点、半粒头 ；黑色HDPE热熔胶粉点涂层时，雕刻辊内通105-110℃的热水循环；轧光辊内通65～85℃的热水循环；进布速度为 18～20m/min。
实施例2:
衬布的坯布规格为：门幅为 48.5 英寸、纱支数为 40 s×40s、密度为 58×50根/英寸。
一种纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬的生产方法，依次包括翻缝、精练、染色、 化学防缩整理、黑色HDPE粉光亮涂层、机械预缩步骤；染黑色时，采用活性染料冷轧堆染色，染液组成：活性黑LC—G 76.0g/L，活性红LC—DB 3.4g/L，活性橙LC—4RN0.5g/L；碱液组成 ：烧碱35g/L，低温冷堆固色碱EW-956（青岛艾文化学助剂有限公司） 35g/L；染色工艺为：染液与碱液4 ：1比例混合，轧液率 65%，车速 55～60m/min，室温堆置16～24h；染色后处理工艺为：进布→第一、二、三格流动冷水洗→第四、五格95～98℃，加防沾皂洗剂ANT 2～3g/L皂煮→第六格70～80℃水洗→第七格流动冷水水洗→落布。
织物化学防缩整理时，防缩整理液的组成为：
抗皱整理剂 RESIN BRT 40 g/L
Arkofix NDF liqc 80～90 g/L
MgCl2·6H2O 12～13 g/L
乙烯脲 4.0g/L
非离子柔软剂V-12 4.0 g/L
其余为水，并用柠檬酸调pH 至4.2～4.5；
化学防缩整理时通过平幅进布，二浸二轧防缩整理液，带液率 65%～70%，110～130℃松式烘燥，超喂 2%～4％上针板，八格热风焙烘，其中第一格温度 150℃，第二格温度160℃，第三～八格温度 170℃，两个锡林冷却落布步骤 , 车速为35～45m/min。
黑色HDPE粉光亮涂层处理依次包括平幅进布、1号油热辊225-245℃预热、2号油热辊220～240℃预热、雕刻辊黑色HDPE热熔胶（上海贝莱特塑胶有限公司HDPE热熔胶（黑色）0—200MY）粉点涂层、3号油热辊230～250℃加热、采用功率为3000W的红外管进行红外烘融、镜面辊轧光、拉幅定形、温度≤ 25℃水冷却、卷装步骤 ；雕刻辊目数:33 目/英寸 ；织物粉点涂层量23～25g/m2，防止反面渗透 ；粉点涂层过程中，不能出现跳粉、漏点、半粒头；黑色HDPE热熔胶粉点涂层时，雕刻辊内通105-110℃的热水循环；轧光辊内通65～85℃的热水循环；进布速度为 20～22m/min。

Claims (2)

1.一种纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬的生产方法，依次包括翻缝、精练、染色、化学防缩整理、黑色HDPE粉光亮涂层、机械预缩步骤，其特征是：所述纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬，涂层表面黑色光亮；游离和水解甲醛≤35mg/kg；经纬向水洗尺寸变化率为-0.8％～+0.5％；
染灰色时，采用还原染料染色，染液组成为：还原黑BCN6.5g/L，还原橄榄绿T 4.4g/L，还原红F3B 0.46g/L，其余为水；还原液组成为：氢氧化钠26～30g/L，85％含量的保险粉24～28g/L，其余为水；染色工艺流程与条件为：平幅进布→均匀轧车浸轧染液→两排红外线预烘→两组70～80℃热风预烘→一组12只锡林烘干→落布→均匀轧车浸轧还原液→102℃下还原蒸箱汽蒸2min→两格5～30℃冷水洗→透风氧化→用含27.5％双氧水0.5～1g/L的氧化液氧化→用浓度2～3g/L的皂煮剂进行两格皂煮→六格平洗槽逐格倒流水洗，每格温度分别为90～95℃、80～90℃、70～80℃、70～80℃、60～70℃、5～30℃冷流水→5～30℃冷水洗→两排共24只锡林烘干→落布；染黑色时，采用活性染料冷轧堆染色，染液组成：活性黑LC—G 76.0g/L，活性红LC—DB 3.4g/L，活性橙LC—4RN0.5g/L；碱液组成：烧碱35g/L，低温冷堆固色碱EW-95635g/L；染色工艺为：染液与碱液4：1比例混合，轧液率65％，车速55～60m/min，室温堆置16～24h；染色后处理工艺为：进布→第一、二、三格流动冷水洗→第四、五格95～98℃，加防沾皂洗剂ANT 2～3g/L皂煮→第六格70～80℃水洗→第七格流动冷水水洗→落布；
黑色HDPE粉光亮涂层处理依次包括平幅进布、1号油热辊225-245℃预热、2号油热辊220～240℃预热、雕刻辊黑色HDPE热熔胶粉点涂层、3号油热辊230～250℃加热、采用功率为3000～4500W的红外管进行红外烘融、镜面辊轧光、拉幅定形、温度≤25℃水冷却、卷装步骤；雕刻辊目数：30、33目/英寸；织物粉点涂层量23～29g/m2，防止反面渗透；粉点涂层过程中，不能出现跳粉、漏点、半粒头；黑色HDPE热熔胶粉点涂层时，雕刻辊内通105-110℃的热水循环；轧光辊内通65～85℃的热水循环；进布速度为18～22m/min。
2.根据权利要求1所述的纯棉光亮黑色粘合衬的生产方法，其特征是：织物化学防缩整理时，防缩整理液的组成为：
化学防缩整理时通过平幅进布，二浸二轧防缩整理液，带液率65％～70％，110～130℃松式烘燥，超喂2％～4％上针板，八格热风焙烘，其中第一格温度150℃，第二格温度160℃，第三～八格温度170℃，两个锡林冷却落布步骤,车速为30～45m/min。
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