WO2022121175A1 - 一种皮毛一体布及其生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种皮毛一体布及其生产工艺 Download PDF

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WO2022121175A1
WO2022121175A1 PCT/CN2021/083746 CN2021083746W WO2022121175A1 WO 2022121175 A1 WO2022121175 A1 WO 2022121175A1 CN 2021083746 W CN2021083746 W CN 2021083746W WO 2022121175 A1 WO2022121175 A1 WO 2022121175A1
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minutes
fur
cloth
needle
fabric
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PCT/CN2021/083746
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English (en)
French (fr)
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奚炳华
陆建明
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江苏新凯盛企业发展有限公司
常熟市琴盛针纺织有限公司
迅销(上海)企业管理咨询有限公司
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Publication of WO2022121175A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022121175A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B1/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C15/00—Calendering, pressing, ironing, glossing or glazing textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/52—Polyesters
    • D06P3/54—Polyesters using dispersed dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/66—Natural or regenerated cellulose using reactive dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the field of design and production technology of knitted weft-knitted fabrics, in particular to a fur-integrated fabric and a production technology thereof.
  • Existing weft knitted fabrics can be divided into two types: single-sided fabric structure and double-sided fabric structure.
  • single-sided fabric structure When the single-sided fabric structure is adopted, it is easy to curl, wrinkle, crease and loosen.
  • weft-knitted double-sided cloth structure When the weft-knitted double-sided cloth structure is adopted, under the condition of balanced force on the front and back of the coil, the curling is improved, the cloth surface is smoother, the hand feel is soft, the stretchability is good, the air permeability and water absorption are better, and the ironing and wrinkle resistance are better.
  • this fabric has various characteristics of composite fabrics, but it improves the feel of composite fabrics, has a sense of restraint when exercising, not close to the body, easy to degumming, foaming, not environmentally friendly, shortens the production cycle of fabric manufacturing, reduces the production cost.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of fur-integrated cloth and its production process with stable structure, smooth cloth surface, soft hand feeling, better air permeability and water absorption, short manufacturing period and low cost.
  • a fur-integrated fabric is made of a weft-knitting double-sided machine structure, the front of the fur-integrated fabric is made of 167dtex/288F polyester filament, the reverse side is made of 21SJC, and the middle is made of connecting yarn 83dtex/36F.
  • the grey cloth weaving machine of the fabric has a hair height of 20-35 mm, and a grey cloth weight of 180-550 g.
  • the fabric adopts a weft knitting double-sided machine structure
  • the diameter of the needle cylinder is 914mm
  • the needle distance is 16/22 needles per inch
  • the number of incoming lines is 16, and the upper dial ABAB refers to two sections.
  • Needle arrangement 10 circuits per cycle when knitting, the 1st, 3rd, 6th, and 8th of the upper needle cylinder do not hang yarn, the 4th, 5, 9, and 10th hang 21SJC, the 2nd and 7th hangs the connecting yarn 83dtex/36F; the lower needle cylinder
  • the 1st stitch is a knife
  • the 2nd and 3rd stitches are hooks
  • the 4th stitches are needles; among them, the 1st, 2nd, 6th, and 7th are the hooks, and the hooks are the veil 167dtex/288F polyester length Silk
  • needles are connecting yarns and tying yarns, namely 83dtex/36F polyester filament and veil 167dtex/288F polyester filament
  • the 3rd and 8th routes are the lower needles and the loops
  • the 4th and 9th routes are all needles.
  • the knife is drawn from the bottom; the needles on the 5th and 10th roads are all out of the needle, and the fur-integrated
  • the above-mentioned production process of the integrated fur cloth which also includes the finishing process of the integrated fur cloth, including pre-forming, dyeing in a walk-up dye vat, softening, dehydration, drying, carding, scalding, shearing, carding, shaking.
  • the dehydration step adopts a mechanical centrifugal dehydrator, the dehydration time is 15 minutes, and the moisture content is 0.5%. 10 minutes, the fluff is formed into granules, and then the temperature is lowered for 10 minutes, and the cloth is released; the ironing temperature is 170 ° C, the speed is 12 m/min; the combing speed is 22 m/min.
  • the preset process parameters are set as follows: the temperatures of 10 ovens of the setting machine are respectively 160°C, 180°C, 195°C, 195°C, 195°C, 195°C, 195°C, 195°C, 185°C, 160°C, the speed is 35m/min, the grey cloth is set with the wool side up, the smooth side down, and the wool is fed into the fabric.
  • the formula of dyeing and washing auxiliaries in the dyeing process includes: calculated by volume percentage of water, 98% glacial acetic acid 1g/L, degreaser 1g/L, leveling agent 0.5g/L g/L, some disperse dyes.
  • the dyeing process includes two processes of dyeing polyester first and then dyeing cotton:
  • the dyeing and polyester process adopts a walk-up dyeing vat.
  • the first water is fed into the cloth at room temperature, and the cloth is fed into the vat.
  • the liquor ratio is 1:15, and then the dyeing and polyester auxiliaries are added respectively: calculated according to the volume percentage of water, 98% glacial acetic acid 1g /l, levelling agent 0.5g/l, degreasing agent 1g/l, add dye after normal operation, calculated according to the weight percentage of grey fabric, including S-5BL red jade: 0.5%, S-4RL orange: 1.5%, HGL Dark blue 0.3%, run for 10 minutes and start to heat up, at 1 degree per minute to 80 degrees, then at 1.5 degrees per minute to 120 degrees, after holding for 5 minutes, then at 1.2 degrees per minute to 130 degrees, holding for 30 minutes Then cool down to 60 degrees at 3.0 degrees per minute, take samples to match the color, after the color is OK, drain the liquid, then add water and add 2g/l of flake alkali according to the water intake, heat up to
  • the cotton dyeing process adopts the up-going Lixin dyeing vat: start adding dyes at 30°C, and the dyes are calculated according to the weight percentage of the grey fabric, including 3BF red: 1%, 3RF yellow: 1%, B133 Zhangqing: 5%, 45 minutes to complete, running After 8-10 minutes, add yuan Mingfen, add in 45 minutes, run for 10-15 minutes, add soda ash, add in 3 times, add alkali for 25 minutes each time, and run for 15 minutes; start to heat up, 1 degree per minute
  • the heating rate is raised to 60 degrees, and after 60 minutes of heat preservation, sampling and color matching, after the color is qualified, start to drain and wash, and wash with hot water at 80 °C for 10 minutes; after washing, add soaping agent 1g/L to 90 °C for 15 minutes. , and then cool down to 60 °C, drain the water into the water and wash the cloth for 10 minutes, and then come out of the tank.
  • the upper softening comprises the following steps: a rope-shaped three-slot upper softening machine is adopted, the first two slots are washed with water, the latter slot is added with a softening aid, and the softening aid is applied. Including, calculated by mass percentage, softening agent 1.8%, hydrophilic softener 1.8%, Aviator 0.5%, antistatic agent 0.5%, the balance is water, the flow rate of softening agent is 60-70RPM, and it is completed in 5 minutes.
  • drying comprises the following steps: drying with a setting machine, the wool side of the colored cloth is up, the smooth side is down, the vehicle speed is 28m/min, and the setting temperature is 150°C,
  • the upwind volume is 800RPM and the downwind volume is 1700RPM.
  • the above-mentioned production process of a fur-integrated cloth includes the following steps: using a 36-bar carding machine, carding needle type: straight needle; vehicle speed 13 m/min, tension 1.0/1.03/1.12, cloth out 1.09, left
  • the bristling rate of the brush is 18.
  • the bristling rate of the right brush is 18.
  • the left and right brushes are consistent to make the suede even and flat.
  • the brushing speed is gradually increased from weak to weak. See flannel base.
  • the above-mentioned production process of a fur-integrated cloth wherein the shaping of the finished product comprises the following steps: drying with a shaping machine, the wool side of the colored cloth is up, the smooth side is down, the vehicle speed is 34m/min, and the shaping temperature is 150°C, Upwind volume is 800RPM, downwind volume is 1000RPM, and overfeed is 10%.
  • the invention adopts the weft-knitted double-sided cloth structure, the force on both sides of the coil is balanced, the structure is stable, the cloth surface is more flat, the hand feel is soft, and the air permeability and water absorption are better.
  • the hand feel is hard, easy to degumming, foaming, not environmentally friendly, shortening the production cycle of fabric manufacturing, and reducing production costs.
  • Fig. 1 is the structure schematic diagram of the weft knitting double-sided machine feeding thread of the present invention
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the number of incoming lines of the double-sided weft knitting machine of the present invention.
  • Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the dyeing and polyester process of the present invention.
  • Figure 4 is a schematic diagram of the cotton dyeing process of the present invention.
  • the invention adopts the structure of weft knitting double-sided machine.
  • the front side of the fabric is made of 167dtex/288F polyester filament, the back side is 21SJC, and the intermediate connecting yarn is 83dtex/36F.
  • the tension of the yarn count is strictly controlled during weaving, the size is suitable and uniform, and the pulling and winding tension is suitable.
  • the knitting machine directly slitting and rolling. Weaving according to specific weaving process parameters, pre-determined, dyed, softened, dehydrated, dried, carded, ironed, sheared, carded, shaken, set, and made into this fabric, the grey fabric weaving machine is 20-35MM high.
  • the gram weight of grey cloth is between 180-550G, and the yarn count specification can be adjusted accordingly according to the gram weight of grey cloth, and the organizational structure can be diversified; Count 16.
  • the present invention refers to the two-stage needle arrangement of the upper needle plate ABAB, 10 routes are one cycle during knitting, and 10 routes are one cycle during knitting, and the 1st, 3rd, 6th, and 8th upper needle cylinders do not hang yarn, and the 4th, 5, 9, 10 hang 21SJC, the 2nd and 7th hang the connecting yarn 83dtex/36F; the 1st needle path of the lower needle cylinder is a knife, the 2nd and 3rd stitch path is a hook, and the 4th stitch path is a needle.
  • the 1st, 2nd, 6th, and 7th are the hooks, the hooks are the veil 167dtex/288F polyester filament, and the needles are the connecting yarn and the binding yarn (83dtex/36F polyester filament + veil 167dtex/288F polyester filament );
  • No. 3 and No. 8 are the needles coming out from the bottom to form a circle;
  • No. 4 and No. 9 are all needles coming out of the needle plate, and the knife is coming out below;
  • No. 5 and No. 10 are all needles being drawn out of the needle disc;
  • the knitting machine is directly slitting and rolling, which means that when the loom can be woven normally, the pulling and winding tension is smaller than that of similar varieties under ordinary circumstances.
  • Pre-forming process 10 ovens for the setting machine, the temperatures are 160°C, 180°C, 195°C, 195°C, 195°C, 195°C, 195°C, 195°C, 185°C, 160°C, and the speed is 35m/min.
  • the gray cloth is facing up, the smooth side is facing down, the cloth is fed along the wool, the setting temperature is 195 °C, the upper air volume is 800 RPM, and the lower air volume is 1400 RPM, and it is leveled;
  • the dyeing process includes two processes of first dyeing polyester and then dyeing cotton:
  • the dyeing and polyester process adopts a walk-up dyeing vat, and the water is advanced into the cloth at room temperature (the wool is poured into the vat), the liquor ratio: 1:15, and then the dyeing and polyester auxiliaries are added respectively: calculated according to the volume percentage of water, 98% acid 1g/l, levelling agent 0.5g/l, degreasing agent 1g/l, add dye after normal operation, S-5BL ruby: 0.5%, S-4RL orange: 1.5%, HGL dark blue 0.3% , run for 10 minutes and start to heat up, at 1 degree per minute to 80 degrees, then at 1.5 degrees per minute to 120 degrees, after holding for 5 minutes, then at 1.2 degrees per minute to 130 degrees, after holding for 30 minutes, at every Cool down to 60 degrees at 3.0 degrees in one minute, take samples for color matching, after the color is OK, drain the liquid, add 2g/l of flake alkali into the water, heat up to 80 degrees, then add 3g/l of hydrosulfit
  • the cotton dyeing process refers to Figure 4.
  • the cotton dyeing process adopts the up-going Lixin dyeing vat: start adding dyes at 30°C (3BF red: 1%, 3RF yellow: 1%, B133 Zhangqing: 5%), complete in 45 minutes, and run for 8 to 10 10 minutes later, add yuan Mingfen, add in 45 minutes, run for 10-15 minutes, add soda ash, add it in 3 times, add alkali for 25 minutes each time, and run for 15 minutes; start to heat up, the heating rate of 1 degree per minute Rise to 60°C, keep warm for 60 minutes, take samples for color matching, after the color is qualified, start draining and washing, and wash with hot water at 80°C for 10 minutes; after washing, add soaping agent 1g/L to 90°C for 15 minutes, and then cool down. When it reaches 60°C, drain the water and wash the cloth for 10
  • Softening process Rope-shaped three-tank topping machine, the first two tanks are washed with water, and the last tank is added with softener.
  • the formula of the softener includes: smoothing agent YX-2022.9 1.8%, hydrophilic softener XY-701 1.8%, Aviator CID 0.5%, antistatic agent XY-190 0.5%, the balance is water, the flow rate of softening agent is 60-70RPM, 5 minutes to complete, after dehydration drying;
  • Dehydration process mechanical centrifugal dehydrator, dehydration time is 15 minutes, moisture content is 0.5%;
  • Drying process drying in the setting machine, the wool side of the colored cloth is facing up, the smooth side is facing down, the vehicle speed is 28m/min, the setting temperature is 150°C, the upper air volume is 800RPM, and the lower air volume is 1700RPM, and the drying temperature is higher than the predetermined temperature. If the time is low, the speed should be slow, and if the temperature is too high, the shape will change;
  • Carding process use a 36-bar carding machine, carding needle type: straight needle; speed 13 m/min, cloth feeding tension 1.0/1.03/1.12, cloth output tension 1.09, left brush bristles rate 18, right brush bristles rate 18, left and right brush
  • carding needle type straight needle
  • speed 13 m/min cloth feeding tension 1.0/1.03/1.12
  • cloth output tension 1.09 left brush bristles rate 18, right brush bristles rate 18, left and right brush
  • the suede surface is uniform and flat, and the combing speed should be gradually increased from weak to weak, so that the fluff is thick and the tension should be consistent to make the suede surface uniform and avoid excessive damage to the fabric caused by one step of strong raising; You can;
  • Ironing process The ironing temperature is 170°C and the speed is 12m/min, which makes the suede feel strong and makes the subsequent shearing more thorough;
  • Shearing process cut off the random hair and floating hair of the suede, keep the plush height of the original shearing, the quality loss is 0.2-0.25%, only the suede is cut, and the smooth surface does not need to be cut;
  • Carding process speed 22 m/min, light combing, in order to make the grain feel fuller when shaking;
  • Shaking process The fabric is heated to 120°C in the shaker cylinder, shaken for 60 minutes to make the fluff into granules, and then cooled down for 10 minutes to release the cloth;
  • Finishing process drying in the setting machine, the wool side of the colored cloth is up, the smooth side is down, the speed is 34m/min, the setting temperature is 150 °C, the upper air volume is 800 RPM, the lower air volume is 1000 RPM, and the overfeed is 10%, so as to ensure the cloth surface Good shrinkage;
  • the invention adopts the weft-knitted double-sided cloth structure, the force on both sides of the coil is balanced, the structure is stable, and a new weaving and dyeing and finishing process is invented. Ironing, wrinkle-proof, easy to care, this fabric has various characteristics of composite fabrics, but improves the composite fabric's hard feel, feels bound when exercising, not close to the body, easy to degumming, foaming, and not environmentally friendly. At the same time, the invention The process can still ensure that the fabric has excellent extensibility and elastic recovery performance, shortens the production cycle of fabric manufacturing, reduces production costs, and saves energy consumption to a certain extent;

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

本发明属于针织纬编面料的设计及生产工艺领域，具体涉及一种皮毛一体布及其生产工艺。所述皮毛一体布采用纬编双面机结构制成，所述皮毛一体布面料的正面采用167dtex/288F涤纶长丝、反面采用21SJC，中间采用连接纱83dtex/36F。本发明采用纬编双面布结构，线圈两面受力平衡，结构稳定，布面更加平整，手感柔软，透气性和吸水性更好，此面料有复合面料的各类特性，但改善了复合面料的手感硬，易脱胶、起泡、不环保、缩短了面料制造生产周期，降低了生产成本。

Description

一种皮毛一体布及其生产工艺 技术领域
本发明属于针织纬编面料的设计及生产工艺领域，具体涉及一种皮毛一体布及其生产工艺。
背景技术
现有的纬编面料可分为单面布结构和双面布结构两类。采用单面布结构时，易卷边，易折皱，易折痕，易脱散。采用纬编双面布结构时，在线圈正、反面受力平衡情况下，卷边有所改善，布面更加平整，手感柔软，伸缩性好，透气性和吸水性更好，免烫防皱，易打理，此面料有复合面料的各类特性，但改善了复合面料的手感硬，运动时有束缚感，不贴身，易脱胶、起泡、不环保、缩短了面料制造生产周期，降低了生产成本。
发明内容
本发明的目的是要提供一种结构稳定，布面平整，手感柔软，透气性和吸水性更好，制造周期短，成本低的一种皮毛一体布及其生产工艺。
为了解决上述技术问题，本发明采取的技术方案如下：
一种皮毛一体布，其所述皮毛一体布采用纬编双面机结构制成，所述皮毛一体布面料的正面采用167dtex/288F涤纶长丝、反面采用21SJC，中间采用连接纱83dtex/36F。
上述的一种皮毛一体布，其所述面料的坯布织造机型毛高20-35mm，坯布克重在180-550g。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述面料采用纬编双面机结构，针筒直径914mm，针距为每英寸16/22针，进线路数16，指上针盘ABAB两段排针，编织时10路一个循环，上针筒第1、3、6、8不挂纱，第4、5、9、10挂21SJC，第2、7挂连接纱83dtex/36F；下针筒第1针路是刀，第2、第3针路是勾，第4针路是针；其中，第1、2、第6、7是出勾出针，勾是挂面纱167dtex/288F涤纶长丝，针是连接纱及绑丝，即83dtex/36F涤纶长丝和面纱167dtex/288F涤纶长丝；第3、8路是下出针成圈；第4、9路上针盘是全出针，下面出刀；第5、10路上针盘全出针,即可制得皮毛一体布。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其还包括皮毛一体布的后整理工艺，包括预定型、上走式染缸染色、上柔、脱水、烘干、梳毛、烫光、剪毛、梳毛、摇粒和成品定型步骤，所述脱水步骤采用机械式离心脱水机，脱水时间15分钟，含水率在0.5％，所述摇粒采用将织物置于摇粒筒内，升温至120℃，摇粒60分钟，使绒毛结成粒状，后降温10分钟出布；所述烫光温度170℃，速度12米/分钟；梳毛速度22米/分钟。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述的预定型的工艺参数设置为：定型机10节烘箱的温度分别是160℃，180℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，185℃，160℃，车速为35m/min，定型时坯布毛面朝上，光面朝下，顺毛进布，定形温度为195℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1400RPM。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述染色工艺的染涤助剂配方包括：按水的体积百分比计算，98％冰醋酸1g/L，除油剂1g/L，均染剂0.5g/L，分散染料若干。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述染色工艺包括先染涤后染棉两个工艺：
染涤工艺采用上走式染缸，常温先进水进布，进布采取倒毛进缸，浴比：1:15，再分别加入染涤助剂：按水的体积百分比计算，98％冰醋酸1g/l,匀染剂0.5g/l,除油剂1g/l,运转正常后再加入染料，按坯布重量百分比计算，包括S-5BL红玉：0.5％，S-4RL橙：1.5％，HGL深蓝0.3％，运转10分钟开始升温，于每分钟1度升温至80度，再于每分钟1.5度升温至120度，保温5分钟后，再于每分钟1.2度升温至130度，保温30分钟后于每分钟3.0度降温至60度，取样对色，颜色OK后，排液，再进水且按进水量加入片碱2g/l,升温至80度，再加入保险粉3g/l,保温20分钟，进行后处理。再排液，进水加酸进行酸洗10分钟后，排液再进水，水洗10分钟；
染棉工艺采用上走式立信染缸：30℃开始加染料，所述染料按坯布重量百分比计算，包括3BF红：1％，3RF黄：1％，B133丈青：5％，45分钟完成，运转8～10分钟后加元明粉，45分钟加完，再运转10～15分钟，加纯碱，分3次加完，每次加碱25分钟，再运转15分钟；开始升温，每分钟1度的升温速率升至60度，保温60分钟后取样对色，颜色合格后，开始排液水洗，80℃热水洗10分 钟；水洗后需加皂洗剂1g/L升至90℃皂洗15分钟，再降温到60℃，排水进水洗布10分钟后出缸。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述上柔包括以下步骤：采用绳状式三槽上柔机，前两槽水洗，后一槽加上柔助剂，所述上柔助剂包括，质量百分比计算，柔滑剂1.8％,亲水柔软剂1.8％,艾维剂0.5％,抗静电剂0.5％，余量为水，上柔助剂的流量60-70RPM,5分钟完成。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述烘干包括以下步骤：采用定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为28m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1700RPM。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述梳毛包括以下步骤：用36棍梳毛机，梳毛针型：直针；车速13米/分钟，张力1.0/1.03/1.12，出布1.09，左刷刷毛率18右刷刷毛率18，左右刷一致使绒面均匀平整，梳毛速度由弱逐渐加强，张力一致使绒面均匀且可避免一步强起绒给织物带来的过大损伤；梳到见绒布基底即可。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述成品定型包括以下步骤：采用定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为34m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1000RPM，超喂10％。
有益效果：
本发明采用纬编双面布结构，线圈两面受力平衡，结构稳定，布面更加平整，手感柔软，透气性和吸水性更好，此面料有复合面料的各类特性，但改善了复合面料的手感硬，易脱胶、起泡、不环保、缩短了面料制造生产周期，降低了生产成本。
附图说明
图1为本发明的纬编双面机进线结构示意图
图2为本发明的纬编双面机进线路数示意图。
图3为本发明染涤工艺示意图。
图4为本发明染棉工艺示意图。
具体实施方式
下面对发明内容作详细的解释。
实施例
本发明采用纬编双面机结构，面料的正面用167dtex/288F涤纶长丝、反面21SJC，中间连接纱83dtex/36F，编织时严格控制纱支的张力，大小合适均匀，牵拉卷取张力合适，针织机器直接剖幅打卷。按特定的织造工艺参数编织，经过预定，染色，上柔，脱水，烘干，梳毛，烫光，剪毛，梳毛，摇粒，成定,制成此面料，坯布织造机型毛高20-35MM之间，坯布克重在180-550G之间，根据坯布克重可相应调整纱支规格，组织结构可多样化；针筒直径914MM(36英寸),针距16/22针/英寸，进线路数16。
参照图1、2，本发明指上针盘ABAB两段排针，编织时10路一个循环，编织时10路一个循环，上针筒第1、3、6、8不挂纱，第4、5、9、10挂21SJC，第2、7挂连接纱83dtex/36F；下针筒第1针路是刀，第2、第3针路是勾，第4针路是针。其中，第1、2、第6、7是出勾出针，勾是挂面纱167dtex/288F涤纶长丝，针是连接纱及绑丝(83dtex/36F涤纶长丝+面纱167dtex/288F涤纶长丝)；第3、8路是下出针成圈；第4、9路上针盘是全出针，下面出刀；第5、10路上针盘全出针；所述的牵拉卷取张力合适，针织机器直接剖幅打卷，指在保证织机能正常编织时，牵拉卷取张力要较普通情况下同类品种小，针织机底部带有布面下机时即时剖幅打卷机构。
织物后整理工艺流程：预定型→染色→上柔→脱水→烘干→梳毛→烫光→剪毛→梳毛→摇粒→成品定型
预定型工艺：定型机10节烘箱，温度分别是160℃，180℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，185℃，160℃，车速为35m/min，定型时坯布毛面朝上，光面朝下，顺毛进布，定形温度为195℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1400RPM，平定；
染色工艺包括先染涤后染棉两个工艺：
染涤工艺参照图3：染涤工艺采用上走式染缸，常温先进水进布(倒毛进缸)，浴比：1:15，再分别加入染涤助剂：按水的体积百分比计算，98％酸1g/l,匀染剂0.5g/l,除油剂1g/l,运转正常后再加入染料，S-5BL红玉：0.5％，S-4RL橙：1.5％，HGL深蓝0.3％，运转10分钟开始升温，于每分钟1度升温至80度，再于每分钟1.5度升温至120度，保温5分钟后，再于每分钟1.2度升温至130 度，保温30分钟后于每分钟3.0度降温至60度，取样对色，颜色OK后，排液，再进水加入片碱2g/l,升温至80度，再加入保险粉3g/l,保温20分钟，进行后处理。再排液，进水加酸进行酸洗10分钟后，排液再进水，水洗10分钟。染棉工艺参照图4染棉工艺采用上走式立信染缸：30℃开始加染料(3BF红：1％，3RF黄：1％，B133丈青：5％)，45分钟完成，运转8～10分钟后加元明粉，45分钟加完，再运转10～15分钟，加纯碱，分3次加完，每次加碱25分钟，再运转15分钟；开始升温，每分钟1度的升温速率升至60度，保温60分钟后取样对色，颜色合格后，开始排液水洗，80℃热水洗10分钟；水洗后需加皂洗剂1g/L升至90℃皂洗15分钟，再降温到60℃，排水进水洗布10分钟后出缸上柔。
上柔工艺：绳状式三槽上柔机，前两槽水洗，后一槽加上柔助剂，上柔助剂的配方包括：柔滑剂YX-2022.9 1.8％,亲水柔软剂XY-701 1.8％，艾维剂CID 0.5％，抗静电剂XY-190 0.5％，余量为水，上柔助剂的流量60-70RPM，5分钟完成，后脱水烘干；
脱水工艺：机械式离心脱水机，脱水时间15分钟，含水率在0.5％；
烘干工艺：定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为28m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1700RPM，平定；烘干时温度要比预定时低，速度要慢，温度过高，形态会改变；
梳毛工艺：用36棍梳毛机，梳毛针型：直针；车速13米/分钟，进布张力1.0/1.03/1.12，出布张力1.09，左刷刷毛率18，右刷刷毛率18，左右刷一致这样使绒面均匀平整，梳毛速度要由弱逐渐加强，这样起来的绒毛厚实，张力要一致使绒面均匀且可避免一步强起绒给织物带来的过大损伤；梳到见绒布基底即可；
烫光工艺：烫光温度170℃，速度12米/分钟，使绒面站立感强，为后续剪毛更彻底；
剪毛工艺：剪去绒面的乱毛和浮毛，保留最初剪毛的毛绒高度，质量损耗在0.2-0.25％，只剪绒面，光面不需要剪；
梳毛工艺：速度22米/分钟，轻梳，为了摇粒时使颗粒感更饱满；
摇粒工艺：织物在摇粒筒内，升温至120℃，摇粒60分钟，使绒毛结成粒状， 后降温10分钟出布；
成定工艺：定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为34m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1000RPM，超喂10％，这样保证布面缩水率好；
本发明采用纬编双面布结构，线圈两面受力平衡，结构稳定，发明了新的织造和染整工艺，布面更加平整，手感柔软，伸缩性好，透气性和吸水性更好，免烫防皱，易打理，此面料有复合面料的各类特性，但改善了复合面料的手感硬，运动时有束缚感，不贴身，易脱胶、起泡、不环保，同时，本发明的工艺仍能保证面料延伸性、弹性回复性能优良，缩短了面料制造生产周期，降低了生产成本，一定程度上节省能源的消耗；
以上所述仅为本发明的实施例，并非因此限制本发明的专利范围，凡是利用本发明说明书及附图内容所作的等效结构或等效流程变换，或直接或间接运用在其他相关的技术领域，均同理包括在本发明的专利保护范围内。

Claims (11)

  1. 一种皮毛一体布，其特征在于，所述皮毛一体布采用纬编双面机结构制成，所述皮毛一体布面料的正面采用167dtex/288F涤纶长丝、反面采用21SJC，中间采用连接纱83dtex/36F。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种皮毛一体布，其特征在于，所述面料的坯布织造机型毛高20-35mm，坯布克重在180-550g。
  3. 根据权利要求1-2任意一项所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述面料采用纬编双面机结构，针筒直径914mm，针距为每英寸16/22针，进线路数16，指上针盘ABAB两段排针，编织时10路一个循环，上针筒第1、3、6、8不挂纱，第4、5、9、10挂21SJC，第2、7挂连接纱83dtex/36F；下针筒第1针路是刀，第2、第3针路是勾，第4针路是针；其中，第1、2、第6、7是出勾出针，勾是挂面纱167dtex/288F涤纶长丝，针是连接纱及绑丝，即83dtex/36F涤纶长丝和面纱167dtex/288F涤纶长丝；第3、8路是下出针成圈；第4、9路上针盘是全出针，下面出刀；第5、10路上针盘全出针,即可制得皮毛一体布。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，还包括皮毛一体布的后整理工艺，包括预定型、上走式染缸染色、上柔、脱水、烘干、梳毛、烫光、剪毛、梳毛、摇粒和成品定型步骤，所述脱水步骤采用机械式离心脱水机，脱水时间15分钟，含水率在0.5％，所述摇粒采用将织物置于摇粒筒内，升温至120℃，摇粒60分钟，使绒毛结成粒状，后降温10分钟出布；所述烫光温度170℃，速度12米/分钟；梳毛速度22米/分钟。
  5. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述的预定型的工艺参数设置为：定型机10节烘箱的温度分别是160℃，180℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，195℃，185℃，160℃，车速为35m/min，定型时坯布毛面朝上，光面朝下，顺毛进布，定型温度为195℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1400RPM。
  6. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述染色工艺的染涤助剂配方包括：按水的体积百分比计算，98％冰醋酸1g/L，除油剂1g/L，均染剂0.5g/L，分散染料若干。
  7. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述染色工艺包括先染涤后染棉两个工艺：
    染涤工艺采用上走式染缸，常温先进水进布，进布采取倒毛进缸，浴比：1:15，再分别加入染涤助剂：按水的体积百分比计算，98％冰醋酸1g/l,匀染剂0.5g/l,除油剂1g/l,运转正常后再加入染料，按坯布重量百分比计算，包括S-5BL红玉：0.5％，S-4RL橙：1.5％，HGL深蓝0.3％，运转10分钟开始升温，于每分钟1度升温至80度，再于每分钟1.5度升温至120度，保温5分钟后，再于每分钟1.2度升温至130度，保温30分钟后于每分钟3.0度降温至60度，取样对色，颜色OK后，排液，再进水且按进水量加入片碱2g/l,升温至80度，再加入保险粉3g/l,保温20分钟，进行后处理，再排液，进水加酸进行酸洗10分钟后，排液再进水，水洗10分钟；
    染棉工艺采用上走式立信染缸：30℃开始加染料，所述染料按坯布重量百分比计算，包括3BF红：1％，3RF黄：1％，B133丈青：5％，45分钟完成，运转8～10分钟后加元明粉，45分钟加完，再运转10～15分钟，加纯碱，分3次加完，每次加碱25分钟，再运转5分钟；开始升温，每分钟1度的升温速率升至60度，保温60分钟后取样对色，颜色合格后，开始排液水洗，80℃热水洗10分钟；水洗后需加皂洗剂1g/L升至90℃皂洗15分钟，再降温到60℃，排水进水洗布10分钟后出缸。
  8. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述上柔包括以下步骤：采用绳状式三槽上柔机，前两槽水洗，后一槽加上柔助剂，所述上柔助剂包括，质量百分比计算，柔滑剂1.8％,亲水柔软剂1.8％,艾维剂0.5％,抗静电剂0.5％，余量为水，上柔助剂的流量60-70RPM,5分钟完成。
  9. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述烘干包括以下步骤：采用定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为28m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1700RPM。
  10. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述梳毛包括以下步骤：用36棍梳毛机，梳毛针型：直针；车速13米/分钟，张力1.0/1.03/1.12，出布1.09，左刷刷毛率18右刷刷毛率18，左右刷一致使绒面均匀平整，梳毛速度由弱逐渐加强，张力一致使绒面均匀且可避免一步强起绒给织物带来的过大损伤；梳到见绒布基底即可。
  11. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述成品 定型包括以下步骤：采用定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为34m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1000RPM，超喂10％。
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