WO2022121174A1 - 一种皮毛一体布及生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种皮毛一体布及生产工艺 Download PDF

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WO2022121174A1
WO2022121174A1 PCT/CN2021/083740 CN2021083740W WO2022121174A1 WO 2022121174 A1 WO2022121174 A1 WO 2022121174A1 CN 2021083740 W CN2021083740 W CN 2021083740W WO 2022121174 A1 WO2022121174 A1 WO 2022121174A1
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Prior art keywords
cloth
fur
needle
integrated
fabric
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PCT/CN2021/083740
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English (en)
French (fr)
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奚炳华
陆建明
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江苏新凯盛企业发展有限公司
常熟市琴盛针纺织有限公司
迅销(上海)企业管理咨询有限公司
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Publication of WO2022121174A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022121174A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D04B1/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
    • D06C7/02—Setting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/52—Polyesters
    • D06P3/54—Polyesters using dispersed dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the field of design and production technology of knitted weft-knitted fabrics, in particular to a fur-integrated fabric and a production technology.
  • Existing weft knitted fabrics can be divided into two types: single-sided fabric structure and double-sided fabric structure.
  • single-sided fabric structure When the single-sided fabric structure is adopted, it is easy to curl, wrinkle, crease and loosen.
  • weft-knitted double-sided cloth structure When the weft-knitted double-sided cloth structure is adopted, under the condition of balanced force on the front and back of the coil, the curling is improved, the cloth surface is smoother, the hand feel is soft, the stretchability is good, the air permeability and water absorption are better, and the ironing and wrinkle resistance are better.
  • this fabric has various characteristics of composite fabrics, but it improves the feel of composite fabrics, and it has a sense of restraint when exercising, not close to the body, easy to degumming, foaming, not environmentally friendly, shortening the production cycle of fabric manufacturing, reducing production cost.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of fur-integrated cloth and production process with stable structure, smooth cloth surface, soft hand feeling, better air permeability and water absorption, short manufacturing cycle and low cost.
  • a fur-integrated fabric is made of a weft-knitting double-sided machine structure, the front of the fur-integrated fabric is made of 222dtex/96F polyester filament, the reverse side is made of 21SJC, and the intermediate connecting yarn is made of 83dtex/36F polyester Filament.
  • the grey cloth weaving machine of the fabric has a hair height of 20-35 mm, and a grey cloth weight of 180-550 g.
  • the fabric adopts a weft knitting double-sided machine structure, the diameter of the needle cylinder is 914mm, the needle distance is 16/22 needles per inch, the number of incoming lines is 16, and the upper dial is ABAB. Needle, 10 loops per knitting, the 1st, 3rd, 6th, and 8th of the upper needle cylinder do not hang yarn, the 4th, 5, 9, and 10th hang 21SJC, the 2nd and 7th hangs the connecting yarn 83dtex/36F; the lower needle cylinder No.
  • the 1st stitch is a knife, the 2nd and 3rd stitches are hooks, and the 4th stitches are needles; among them, the 1st, 2nd, 6th, and 7th are hooks and hooks, and the hooks are veil 222dtex/96F polyester filament , the needle is connecting yarn and tying yarn, that is, 83dtex/36F polyester filament and veil 222dtex/96F polyester filament; the 3rd and 8th routes are the lower needle and the loop; the 4th and 9th routes Pull out the knife; on the 5th and 10th routes, the needle plate is completely out of the needle, and the fur-integrated cloth can be made.
  • the above-mentioned production process of the integrated fur cloth which also includes the finishing process of the integrated fur cloth, including the steps of pre-forming, dyeing with a walk-up dyeing vat, softening, dehydration, drying, carding, shaking and final product shaping,
  • the dehydration step adopts a mechanical centrifugal dehydrator, the dehydration time is 15 minutes, and the moisture content is 0.5%.
  • the shaking particles the fabric is placed in a shaking tube, and the temperature is raised to 120 ° C. The shaking is 60 minutes, so that the fluff is formed. Granular, after cooling for 10 minutes, the cloth is released.
  • the preset process parameters are set as follows: the temperatures of 10 ovens of the setting machine are respectively 175°C, 178°C, 185°C, 190°C, 195°C, 192°C, 188°C, 182°C, 178°C, 173°C, the speed is 35m/min, the grey cloth is facing up, the smooth side is facing down, and the fabric is fed along the wool. 1400RPM.
  • the formula of dyeing and chemical auxiliaries in the dyeing process calculated according to the weight percentage of grey cloth, including disperse red 0.88%; disperse yellow 1.34%; disperse blue 0.26%; The calculation includes 98% concentration of glacial acetic acid 0.5-1g/L; high temperature leveling agent DO-2203 0.5-1g/L; Yajierui TS-E 0.5-1g/L.
  • the above-mentioned production process of a fur-integrated cloth wherein the dyeing process comprises the following steps: adopting a walk-up dyeing vat, feeding the cloth and water into the dyeing and chemical auxiliaries at a normal temperature of 30°C, and controlling the liquor ratio at 1:8-10 , the heating rate is controlled at 1.0 °C/min, after heating to 80 °C, the heating rate is controlled at 1.5 °C/min, the temperature is raised to 120 °C, the temperature is maintained for 20 minutes, and then the temperature is lowered to below 60 °C at a rate of 3.0 °C/min, and then discharged After the liquid is drained, wash it with hot water for 15-20 minutes and then release the cloth.
  • the upper softening comprises the following steps: a rope-shaped three-slot upper softening machine is adopted, the first two slots are washed with water, the latter slot is added with a softening aid, and the softening aid is applied. Including: 1.8% of smoothing agent, 0.2% of hydrophilic softener, 0.5% of Ivey agent, 0.5% of antistatic agent, the balance is water, the flow rate of softening agent is 60-70RPM, and it is completed in 5 minutes.
  • drying comprises the following steps: drying with a setting machine, the wool side of the colored cloth is up, the smooth side is down, the vehicle speed is 28m/min, and the setting temperature is 150°C,
  • the upwind volume is 800RPM and the downwind volume is 1700RPM.
  • the above-mentioned production process of a fur-integrated cloth includes the following steps: using a 36-bar carding machine, carding needle type: straight needle; vehicle speed 13 m/min, tension 1.0/1.03/1.12, cloth out 1.09, left
  • the bristling rate of the brush is 18.
  • the bristling rate of the right brush is 18.
  • the left and right brushes are consistent to make the suede even and flat.
  • the brushing speed is gradually increased from weak to weak. See flannel base.
  • the above-mentioned production process of a fur-integrated cloth wherein the shaping of the finished product comprises the following steps: drying with a shaping machine, the wool side of the colored cloth is up, the smooth side is down, the vehicle speed is 34m/min, and the shaping temperature is 150°C, Upwind volume is 800RPM, downwind volume is 1000RPM, and overfeed is 10%.
  • the invention adopts the weft-knitted double-sided cloth structure, the force on both sides of the coil is balanced, the structure is stable, the cloth surface is more flat, the hand feel is soft, and the air permeability and water absorption are better.
  • the hand feel is hard, easy to degumming, foaming, not environmentally friendly, shortening the production cycle of fabric manufacturing, and reducing production costs.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the thread feeding of the double-sided weft knitting machine of the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the number of incoming lines of the double-sided weft knitting machine of the present invention.
  • Figure 3 is a schematic diagram of the dyeing process of the present invention.
  • the invention adopts the structure of weft knitting double-sided machine, the front side of the fabric is made of 222dtex/96F polyester filament, the reverse side is 21SJC, the intermediate link yarn is 83dtex/36F polyester filament, the tension of the yarn count is strictly controlled during weaving, the size is suitable and uniform, and the pulling roll When the tension is appropriate, the knitting machine can directly slit and roll. Weaving according to specific weaving process parameters, pre-determined, dyed, softened, dehydrated, dried, carded, shaken, and set, this fabric is made.
  • the yarn count specification can be adjusted according to the gram weight of the grey cloth, and the organizational structure can be diversified; the diameter of the needle cylinder is 9mm (36 inches), the needle distance is 16/22 needles/inch, and the number of incoming lines is 16.
  • the present invention refers to the two-stage needle arrangement of the upper needle plate ABAB, 10 routes are one cycle during knitting, and 10 routes are one cycle during knitting, and the 1st, 3rd, 6th, and 8th upper needle cylinders do not hang yarn, and the 4th, 5, 9, 10 hang 21SJC, the 2nd and 7th hang the connecting yarn 83dtex/36F; the 1st needle path of the lower needle cylinder is a knife, the 2nd and 3rd stitch path is a hook, and the 4th stitch path is a needle.
  • the 1st, 2nd, 6th and 7th are the hooks, the hooks are the veil 222dtex/96F polyester filament, and the needles are the connecting yarn and the tying wire (83dtex/36F polyester filament + veil 222dtex/96F polyester filament ); No. 3 and No. 8, the needle is drawn out into a circle; No. 4 and No. 9, the needle is fully drawn out, and the knife is drawn from the bottom; No.
  • the said pulling and winding tension is suitable, and the knitting machine is directly slitting and rolling, which means that when the loom can be woven normally, the pulling and winding tension is smaller than that of similar varieties under ordinary conditions, and the bottom of the knitting machine is equipped with a cloth surface lowering machine. Real-time slitting and rolling mechanism.
  • Fabric finishing process pre-type ⁇ dyeing ⁇ softening ⁇ dehydration ⁇ drying ⁇ carding ⁇ shaking ⁇ finished product setting
  • Pre-forming process 10 ovens for the setting machine, the temperatures are 175°C, 178°C, 185°C, 190°C, 195°C, 192°C, 188°C, 182°C, 178°C, 173°C, the speed is 35m/min, the setting When the grey cloth is facing up, the smooth side is facing down, the cloth is fed along the wool, the setting temperature is 185-190 °C, the upper air volume is 800 RPM, and the lower air volume is 1400 RPM, and it is leveled;
  • the dyeing and chemical auxiliaries formula of the dyeing process: calculated according to the weight percentage of the grey fabric, including 0.88% of disperse red; 1.34% of disperse yellow; disperse blue 0.26%; calculated according to the bath ratio of water, including 98% concentration of glacial acetic acid 0.5-1g/L; high temperature leveling agent DO-22030.5-1g/L; Yajierui TS-E 0.5-1g/L.
  • the bath ratio was controlled at 1:8-10, the heating rate was controlled at 1.0 °C/min, after the temperature was raised to 80 °C, the heating rate was controlled at 1.5 °C/min, the temperature was raised to 120 °C, the temperature was maintained for 20 minutes, and then the temperature was increased to 3.0 °C/min. Cool down to below 60°C, and then drain the liquid. After draining, wash it with hot water for 15-20 minutes, and then apply it to the cloth.
  • Softening process Rope-shaped three-tank topping machine, the first two tanks are washed with water, and the last tank is added with softening aid.
  • the formula of softening aid includes, smoothing agent YX-2022.9 1.8%, hydrophilic softening agent XY-701 0.2 %, Aviator CID 0.5%, antistatic agent XY-190 0.5%, the balance is water, the flow rate of the softening agent is 60-70RPM, it is completed in 5 minutes, and then dehydrated and dried;
  • Dehydration process mechanical centrifugal dehydrator, dehydration time is 15 minutes, moisture content is 0.5%;
  • Drying process drying in the setting machine, the wool side of the colored cloth is facing up, the smooth side is facing down, the vehicle speed is 28m/min, the setting temperature is 150°C, the upper air volume is 800RPM, and the lower air volume is 1700RPM, and the drying temperature is higher than the predetermined temperature. If the time is low, the speed should be slow, and if the temperature is too high, the shape will change;
  • Carding process use a 36-bar carding machine, carding needle type: straight needle; speed 13 m/min, tension 1.0/1.03/1.12, cloth output 1.09, left brush hair ratio 18 Right brush hair ratio 18, the left and right brushes are consistent so that the velvet The surface is even and flat, and the combing speed should be gradually increased from weak to weak, so that the fluff should be thick and the tension should be consistent to make the suede uniform and avoid excessive damage to the fabric caused by one step of strong raising; comb until the base of the flannel is seen;
  • Shake technology the fabric is in the shaker cylinder, heated to 120°C, shaken for 60 minutes, the fluff is formed into granules, and then the temperature is lowered for 10 minutes and the cloth is released;
  • Finishing process drying in the setting machine, the wool side of the colored cloth is up, the smooth side is down, the speed is 34m/min, the setting temperature is 150 °C, the upper air volume is 800 RPM, the lower air volume is 1000 RPM, and the overfeed is 10%, so as to ensure the cloth surface Good shrinkage.
  • the invention adopts the weft-knitted double-sided cloth structure, the force on both sides of the coil is balanced, the structure is stable, and the characteristics of easy-cut spandex are used to invent a new weaving and dyeing and finishing process, which completely solves the problem that elastic fabrics are easy to curl, wrinkle and fold. Marks, easy to come off, difficult to control when cutting and sewing.
  • the fabric can be further processed by laser punching, cutting holes and post-processing by thermoplastic forming such as molded bra cups. Easy-cut spandex has extremely high heat-setting benefits, lower processing temperature, and shortened processing time, thus saving energy consumption to a certain extent.

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  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

本发明属于针织纬编面料的设计及生产工艺领域，具体涉及一种皮毛一体布及生产工艺。所述皮毛一体布采用纬编双面机结构制成，所述皮毛一体布面料的正面采用222dtex/96F涤纶长丝、反面采用21SJC，中间连接纱采用83dtex/36F涤纶长丝。本发明采用纬编双面布结构，线圈两面受力平衡，结构稳定，布面更加平整，手感柔软，透气性和吸水性更好，此面料有复合面料的各类特性，但改善了复合面料的手感硬，易脱胶、起泡、不环保、缩短了面料制造生产周期，降低了生产成本。

Description

一种皮毛一体布及生产工艺 技术领域
本发明属于针织纬编面料的设计及生产工艺领域，具体涉及一种皮毛一体布及生产工艺。
背景技术
现有的纬编面料可分为单面布结构和双面布结构两类。采用单面布结构时，易卷边，易折皱，易折痕，易脱散。采用纬编双面布结构时，在线圈正、反面受力平衡情况下，卷边有所改善，布面更加平整，手感柔软，伸缩性好，透气性和吸水性更好，免烫防皱，易打理，此面料有复合面料的各类特性，但改善了复合面料的手感硬，运动时有束缚感，不贴身，易脱胶、起泡、不环保、缩短了面料制造生产周期，降低了生产成本。
发明内容
本发明的目的是要提供一种结构稳定，布面平整，手感柔软，透气性和吸水性更好，制造周期短，成本低的一种皮毛一体布及生产工艺。
为了解决上述技术问题，本发明采取的技术方案如下：
一种皮毛一体布，其所述皮毛一体布采用纬编双面机结构制成，所述皮毛一体布面料的正面采用222dtex/96F涤纶长丝、反面采用21SJC，中间连接纱采用83dtex/36F涤纶长丝。
上述的一种皮毛一体布，其所述面料的坯布织造机型毛高20-35mm，坯布克重在180-550g。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，所述面料采用纬编双面机结构，针筒直径914mm，针距为每英寸16/22针，进线路数16，指上针盘ABAB两段排针，编织时10路一个循环，上针筒第1、3、6、8不挂纱，第4、5、9、10挂21SJC，第2、7挂连接纱83dtex/36F；下针筒第1针路是刀，第2、第3针路是勾，第4针路是针；其中，第1、2、第6、7是出勾出针，勾是挂面纱222dtex/96F涤纶长丝，针是连接纱及绑丝，即83dtex/36F涤纶长丝和面纱222dtex/96F涤纶长丝；第3、8路是下出针成圈；第4、9路上针盘是全出针，下面出刀；第5、10路上针盘全出针,即可制得皮毛一体布。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其还包括皮毛一体布的后整理工艺， 包括预定型、用上走式染缸染色、上柔、脱水、烘干、梳毛、摇粒和成品定型步骤，所述脱水步骤采用机械式离心脱水机，脱水时间15分钟，含水率在0.5％，所述摇粒采用将织物置于摇粒筒内，升温至120℃，摇粒60分钟，使绒毛结成粒状，后降温10分钟出布。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述的预定型的工艺参数设置为：定型机10节烘箱的温度分别是175℃，178℃，185℃，190℃，195℃，192℃，188℃，182℃，178℃，173℃，车速为35m/min，定型时坯布毛面朝上，光面朝下，顺毛进布，定形温度为185～190℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1400RPM。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述染色工艺的染化料助剂配方：按坯布重量百分比计算，包括分散红0.88％；分散黄1.34％；分散蓝0.26％；按浴比水量计算，包括98％浓度的冰醋酸0.5-1g/L；高温匀染剂DO-2203 0.5-1g/L；雅洁瑞TS-E 0.5-1g/L。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述染色工艺包括以下步骤：采用上走式染缸，常温30℃时进布进水进染化料助剂，浴比控制在1:8-10，升温速度控制在1.0℃/分钟，升温到80℃后，升温速率控制在1.5℃/分钟，升温至120℃，保温20分钟，后以3.0℃/分钟的速率降温至60℃以下，然后排液，排液后，用热水洗15-20分钟后出布。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述上柔包括以下步骤：采用绳状式三槽上柔机，前两槽水洗，后一槽加上柔助剂，所述上柔助剂包括：柔滑剂1.8％，亲水柔软剂0.2％,艾维剂0.5％,抗静电剂0.5％，余量为水，上柔助剂的流量60-70RPM，5分钟完成。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述烘干包括以下步骤：采用定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为28m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1700RPM。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述梳毛包括以下步骤：用36棍梳毛机，梳毛针型：直针；车速13米/分钟，张力1.0/1.03/1.12，出布1.09，左刷刷毛率18右刷刷毛率18，左右刷一致使绒面均匀平整，梳毛速度由弱逐渐加强，张力一致使绒面均匀且可避免一步强起绒给织物带来的过大损伤；梳到见绒布基底即可。
上述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其所述成品定型包括以下步骤：采用定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为34m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1000RPM，超喂10％。
有益效果：
本发明采用纬编双面布结构，线圈两面受力平衡，结构稳定，布面更加平整，手感柔软，透气性和吸水性更好，此面料有复合面料的各类特性，但改善了复合面料的手感硬，易脱胶、起泡、不环保、缩短了面料制造生产周期，降低了生产成本。
附图说明
图1为本发明的纬编双面机进线结构示意图。
图2为本发明的纬编双面机进线路数示意图。
图3为本发明染色工艺示意图。
具体实施方式
下面对发明内容作详细的解释。
实施例
本发明采用纬编双面机结构，面料的正面用222dtex/96F涤纶长丝、反面21SJC，中间链接纱83dtex/36F涤纶长丝，编织时严格控制纱支的张力，大小合适均匀，牵拉卷取张力合适，针织机器直接剖幅打卷。按特定的织造工艺参数编织，经过预定，染色，上柔，脱水，烘干，梳毛，摇粒，成定,制成此面料，坯布织造机型毛高20-35mm之间，坯布克重在180-550G之间，根据坯布克重可相应调整纱支规格，组织结构可多样化；针筒直径9mm(36英寸),针距16/22针/英寸，进线路数16。
参照图1、2，本发明指上针盘ABAB两段排针，编织时10路一个循环，编织时10路一个循环，上针筒第1、3、6、8不挂纱，第4、5、9、10挂21SJC，第2、7挂连接纱83dtex/36F；下针筒第1针路是刀，第2、第3针路是勾，第4针路是针。其中，第1、2、第6、7是出勾出针，勾是挂面纱222dtex/96F涤纶长丝，针是连接纱及绑丝(83dtex/36F涤纶长丝+面纱222dtex/96F涤纶长丝)；第3、8路是下出针成圈；第4、9路上针盘是全出针，下面出刀；第5、10路上针盘全出针。所述的牵拉卷取张力合适，针织机器直接剖幅打卷，指在保证织机能正常编织 时，牵拉卷取张力要较普通情况下同类品种小，针织机底部带有布面下机时即时剖幅打卷机构。
织物后整理工艺流程：预定型→染色→上柔→脱水→烘干→梳毛→摇粒→成品定型
预定型工艺：定型机10节烘箱，温度分别是175℃，178℃，185℃，190℃，195℃，192℃，188℃，182℃，178℃，173℃，车速为35m/min，定型时坯布毛面朝上，光面朝下，顺毛进布，定形温度为185～190℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1400RPM，平定；
染色工艺：参照图3，
采用上走式染缸，常温30℃时进布进水进染化料助剂，染色工艺的染化料助剂配方：按坯布重量百分比计算，包括分散红0.88％；分散黄1.34％；分散蓝0.26％；按浴比水量计算，包括98％浓度的冰醋酸0.5-1g/L；高温匀染剂DO-22030.5-1g/L；雅洁瑞TS-E 0.5-1g/L。浴比控制在1:8-10，升温速度控制在1.0℃/分钟，升温到80℃后，升温速率控制在1.5℃/分钟，升温至120℃，保温20分钟，后以3.0℃/分钟的速率降温至60℃以下，然后排液，排液后，用热水洗15-20分钟后出布后上柔；
上柔工艺：绳状式三槽上柔机，前两槽水洗，后一槽加上柔助剂，上柔助剂配方包括，柔滑剂YX-2022.9 1.8％,亲水柔软剂XY-701 0.2％,艾维剂CID 0.5％,抗静电剂XY-190 0.5％，余量为水，上柔助剂的流量60-70RPM,5分钟完成，后脱水烘干；
脱水工艺：机械式离心脱水机，脱水时间15分钟，含水率在0.5％；
烘干工艺：定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为28m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1700RPM，平定；烘干时温度要比预定时低，速度要慢，温度过高，形态会改变；
梳毛工艺：用36棍梳毛机，梳毛针型：直针；车速13米/分钟，张力1.0/1.03/1.12，出布1.09，左刷刷毛率18右刷刷毛率18，左右刷一致这样使绒面均匀平整，梳毛速度要由弱逐渐加强，这样起来的绒毛厚实，张力要一致使绒面均匀且可避免一步强起绒给织物带来的过大损伤；梳到见绒布基底即可；
摇粒工艺：织物在摇粒筒内，升温至120℃，摇粒60分钟，使绒毛结成粒 状，后降温10分钟出布；
成定工艺：定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为34m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1000RPM，超喂10％，这样保证布面缩水率好。
本发明采用纬编双面布结构，线圈两面受力平衡，结构稳定，再利用易裁剪氨纶的特性，发明了新的织造和染整工艺，彻底解决弹力面料易卷边，易折皱，易折痕，易脱散，裁剪缝制难控制问题。面料可进一步做激光冲孔、裁切孔以及利用热塑性成形如模压文胸罩杯等后加工，布面平滑，手感柔软，形态稳定，不脱散。易裁剪氨纶的热定型效益极高，加工温度可以较低，加工时间可以缩短，因此一定程度上节省能源的消耗，同时，本发明的工艺仍能保证面料延伸性、弹性回复性能优良。
以上所述仅为本发明的实施例，并非因此限制本发明的专利范围，凡是利用本发明说明书及附图内容所作的等效结构或等效流程变换，或直接或间接运用在其他相关的技术领域，均同理包括在本发明的专利保护范围内。

Claims (11)

  1. 一种皮毛一体布，其特征在于，所述皮毛一体布采用纬编双面机结构制成，所述皮毛一体布面料的正面采用222dtex/96F涤纶长丝、反面采用21SJC，中间连接纱采用83dtex/36F涤纶长丝。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种皮毛一体布，其特征在于，所述面料的坯布织造机型毛高20-35mm，坯布克重在180-550g。
  3. 根据权利要求1-2任意一项所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述面料采用纬编双面机结构，针筒直径914mm，针距为每英寸16/22针，进线路数16，指上针盘ABAB两段排针，编织时10路一个循环，上针筒第1、3、6、8不挂纱，第4、5、9、10挂21SJC，第2、7挂连接纱83dtex/36F；下针筒第1针路是刀，第2、第3针路是勾，第4针路是针；其中，第1、2、第6、7是出勾出针，勾是挂面纱222dtex/96F涤纶长丝，针是连接纱及绑丝，即83dtex/36F涤纶长丝和面纱222dtex/96F涤纶长丝；第3、8路是下出针成圈；第4、9路上针盘是全出针，下面出刀；第5、10路上针盘全出针,即可制得皮毛一体布。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，还包括皮毛一体布的后整理工艺，包括预定型、用上走式染缸染色、上柔、脱水、烘干、梳毛、摇粒和成品定型步骤，所述脱水步骤采用机械式离心脱水机，脱水时间15分钟，含水率在0.5％，所述摇粒采用将织物置于摇粒筒内，升温至120℃，摇粒60分钟，使绒毛结成粒状，后降温10分钟出布。
  5. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述的预定型的工艺参数设置为：定型机10节烘箱的温度分别是175℃，178℃，185℃，190℃，195℃，192℃，188℃，182℃，178℃，173℃，车速为35m/min，定型时坯布毛面朝上，光面朝下，顺毛进布，定形温度为185～190℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1400RPM。
  6. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述染色工艺的染化料助剂配方：按坯布重量百分比计算，包括分散红0.88％；分散黄1.34％；分散蓝0.26％；按浴比水量计算，包括98％浓度的冰醋酸0.5-1g/L；高温匀染剂DO-2203 0.5-1g/L；雅洁瑞TS-E 0.5-1g/L。
  7. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述染色工艺包括以下步骤：采用上走式染缸，常温30℃时进布进水进染化料助剂，浴 比控制在1:8-10，升温速度控制在1.0℃/分钟，升温到80℃后，升温速率控制在1.5℃/分钟，升温至120℃，保温20分钟，后以3.0℃/分钟的速率降温至60℃以下，然后排液，排液后，用热水洗15-20分钟后出布。
  8. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述上柔包括以下步骤：采用绳状式三槽上柔机，前两槽水洗，后一槽加上柔助剂，所述上柔助剂包括：柔滑剂1.8％，亲水柔软剂0.2％,艾维剂0.5％,抗静电剂0.5％，余量为水，上柔助剂的流量60-70RPM，5分钟完成。
  9. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述烘干包括以下步骤：采用定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为28m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1700RPM。
  10. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述梳毛包括以下步骤：用36棍梳毛机，梳毛针型：直针；车速13米/分钟，张力1.0/1.03/1.12，出布1.09，左刷刷毛率18右刷刷毛率18，左右刷一致使绒面均匀平整，梳毛速度由弱逐渐加强，张力一致使绒面均匀且可避免一步强起绒给织物带来的过大损伤；梳到见绒布基底即可。
  11. 根据权利要求3所述的一种皮毛一体布的生产工艺，其特征在于，所述成品定型包括以下步骤：采用定型机烘干，色布毛面朝上，光面朝下，车速为34m/min，定型温度为150℃，上风量800RPM，下风量1000RPM，超喂10％。
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