WO2021035989A1 - 一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺 - Google Patents

一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021035989A1
WO2021035989A1 PCT/CN2019/118855 CN2019118855W WO2021035989A1 WO 2021035989 A1 WO2021035989 A1 WO 2021035989A1 CN 2019118855 W CN2019118855 W CN 2019118855W WO 2021035989 A1 WO2021035989 A1 WO 2021035989A1
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Prior art keywords
printing
color
printing paste
washing
paste
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PCT/CN2019/118855
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
唐俊松
沈迎芳
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吴江飞翔印染有限公司
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Publication of WO2021035989A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021035989A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/38—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/46—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing natural macromolecular substances or derivatives thereof
    • D06P1/48—Derivatives of carbohydrates
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
    • D06P1/5207—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06P1/525—Polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids or functional derivatives thereof
    • D06P1/5257—(Meth)acrylic acid
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/64—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing low-molecular-weight organic compounds without sulfate or sulfonate groups
    • D06P1/642—Compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06P1/649—Compounds containing carbonamide, thiocarbonamide or guanyl groups
    • D06P1/6491—(Thio)urea or (cyclic) derivatives
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
    • D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
    • D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/66—Natural or regenerated cellulose using reactive dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/02—After-treatment

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a rotary screen reactive printing process for rayon fabric.
  • the existing artificial cotton printing process has unstable color after printing, uneven color development, insufficient pattern outline, poor color fastness, and cannot meet the needs of wearing.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a rotary screen reactive printing process for rayon fabrics.
  • the printed fabric has stable color, fully uniform color development, clear pattern outline, good color fastness, and good dimensional stability. Can well meet the needs of taking.
  • a rotary screen reactive printing process for rayon fabric includes the following steps:
  • the printing paste is prepared by mixing sodium alginate and thickener FS-80 in a ratio of 3:7.
  • the thickener FS-80 is made of sodium polyacrylate and a vinyl monomer with a highly hydrophilic group. Aggregated
  • the prescription of printing paste reactive dye x%, urea 5-15%, sodium bicarbonate 2-3%, anti-dyeing salt S1-2%, printing paste 60-80%, the balance is water; according to the prescription amount Weigh each raw material, use a small amount of water to first adjust the reactive dye into a slurry dye solution, then mix urea, sodium bicarbonate, anti-dyeing salt S and the printing paste, add water, stir evenly, and then add the prepared slurry dye Liquid, stir evenly to make printing paste;
  • the printed rayon fabrics are steamed and fixed, washed, washed and then fixed, dried and shaped in sequence; the steamed and fixed color uses saturated steam in a low-temperature continuous long-loop steaming machine to vaporize and fix, and then steam
  • the temperature is 100 ⁇ 3°C, and the speed of the steaming machine is 20m/min.
  • the color fixation after washing is done by a padding process, which is carried out on the setting machine.
  • the color fixation contained in the padding liquid used in the padding process The agent is wet rubbing fastness improver TF-239A.
  • a rope-like tension-free washing machine is used for loose washing.
  • the setting temperature used in the fixing process after washing in step (4) is 150° C.
  • the setting locomotive speed is 50 m/min
  • the setting machine performs 12 positive overfeeds.
  • the amount of the fixing agent used in the fixing process after washing in the step (4) is 20-30 g/L.
  • the setting machine in the drying and setting process performs 8-12 positive overfeeds.
  • the present invention has the following advantages and effects:
  • the present invention designs a reasonable printing prescription and printing process according to the characteristics of the rayon fabric, so that the fabric after rotary screen reactive printing is bright and full, the color is fully uniform, the pattern outline is clear, the permeability is good, and the hand feel is soft. Can well meet the needs of taking;
  • the present invention uses steaming fixation and washing and fixation to improve the color fastness of the printed rayon fabric.
  • the color fastness can generally reach level 3 or higher, which can well meet customer requirements and consumption. demand;
  • the washing dimensional change rate (shrinkage rate) of the fabric is between -3% and 3%, which improves the dimensional stability of the fabric.
  • Rayon fabric (warp and weft density 460 pieces/10cm ⁇ 280 pieces/10cm, surface density 160g/m 2 , fabric weight 250g/m, count 28S ⁇ 29S).
  • Reactive dye DS-DH black (Wujiang Taoyuan Dyestuff Co., Ltd.), P-SGN black, P-3R brilliant blue (Suzhou Yiyou Co., Ltd.), BPS navy, BPS red, BPS red (Suzhou Tianshi Industry and Trade Co., Ltd.), P- 2RN Golden (Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Group Co., Ltd.).
  • Equipment Blu-ray screen making machine (Shaoxing County Textile Technology Center Co., Ltd.), automatic pulping machine (Italy Pilovano Co., Ltd.), rotary screen magnetic bar printing machine (Qima Machinery Manufacturing Co., Ltd.), low temperature long ring steaming Machine (Jiangyin Yongxin Printing and Dyeing Machinery Co., Ltd.), rope tension-free washing machine (Jiangyin Yongxin Printing and Dyeing Machinery Co., Ltd.), stenter setting machine (American Reagan), weft straightening machine (Germany Manor), Y571B Rubbing Color Fastness Tester (Ningbo Textile Instrument Factory), SW-24 Washing Fastness Tester (Ningbo Textile Instrument Factory), M232 Perspiration Color Fastness Tester (Ningbo Textile Instrument Factory), Y902N Color Fastness to Perspiration Degree oven (Ningbo Textile Instrument Factory), FOM71 Electrolux Shrinkage Tester (Sweden Electrolux).
  • reactive dyes for cellulose fiber printing are K-type, P-type, BPS-type and PN-type.
  • K type is a traditional reactive dye, its color is bright, the price is cheap, but the fixing rate is low, the lifting power is low, and some dyes are poor in water solubility, staining is serious in washing, and it is not suitable for dark colors;
  • P type is an improved version of K type It is also a mono-chloro-s-triazine single-reactive dye with improved performance and is suitable for dark colors;
  • BPS type is a double-reactive dye containing two reactive groups, mono-chloro-s-triazine and vinyl sulfone, with fixation rate and lifting power It is better than K-type and P-type;
  • PN-type has a vinyl sulfone structure and has a darker color, but the color is old and poor alkali resistance.
  • Rayon printing mainly considers color yield, permeability, water holding capacity, flatness and de-gluing.
  • the present invention finally selects sodium alginate and thickener FS-80 to mix at 3:7.
  • FS-80 is a thickener made by polymerization of sodium polyacrylate and vinyl monomers with highly hydrophilic groups. It can be mixed with sodium alginate to get the ideal effect and the overall cost is the lowest.
  • the printing paste is prepared by mixing sodium alginate and thickener FS-80 in a ratio of 3:7.
  • the thickener FS-80 is made of sodium polyacrylate and a vinyl monomer with a highly hydrophilic group. Aggregated
  • the prescription of the printing paste reactive dyes 3%, urea 15%, sodium bicarbonate 2%, anti-dyeing salt S 1%, printing paste 70%, water 9%; each raw material is weighed according to the prescription, and a small amount of water is used first Adjust the reactive dye into a slurry dye solution, then mix urea, sodium bicarbonate, anti-dyeing salt S and the printing paste, add water, and stir evenly, then add the prepared slurry dye solution, stir evenly, and make a print Color paste
  • the printed rayon fabrics are steamed and fixed, washed, washed and then fixed, dried and shaped in sequence; the steamed and fixed color uses saturated steam in a low-temperature continuous long-loop steaming machine to vaporize and fix, and then steam
  • the temperature is 100 ⁇ 3°C, and the speed of the steaming machine is 20m/min.
  • the color fixation after washing is performed by a padding process.
  • the padding process is carried out on the setting machine.
  • the color fixation contained in the padding liquid used in the padding process The agent is wet rubbing fastness improver TF-239A.
  • a rope-like tension-free washing machine is used for loose washing.
  • the washing process adopts 8 water tanks, among which 1# and 2# tanks are cold water tanks, and 3#-6# are hot water tanks, the temperature is 85-95°C, and the white background antifouling agent BPW is added, and the dosage is 2-4g/L. 7# and 8# tanks are cold water outlet tanks.
  • the setting temperature used in the fixing process after washing in step (4) is 150°C
  • the setting locomotive speed is 50m/min
  • the setting machine performs 12 positive overfeeds.
  • the amount of fixing agent used in the fixing process after washing is 20-30g/L relative to the padding liquid.
  • the effect of color fixation after washing on the color fastness to rubbing is shown in Table 2.
  • the color fastness to rubbing is measured by the Y571B rubbing color fastness tester, and is measured in accordance with GB/T 3920-2008 "Textile color fastness test for rubbing color fastness", and is rated with a gray card for assessing staining.
  • wet rubbing fastness enhancer TF-239A has a good effect on improving the rubbing fastness of rayon fabrics, especially the dark wet rubbing fastness can be improved by 0.5-1 level, and reduced
  • the formaldehyde content meets the requirements of Oeko-tex Standard 100.
  • the effect of color fixation after washing on color fastness to washing and color fastness to perspiration is shown in Table 3.
  • the color fastness to washing and the color fastness to perspiration are tested by SW-24 color fastness to washing tester and M232 color fastness to perspiration.
  • the color fastness to washing is determined in accordance with GB/T 3921-2008 "Color fastness to soaping in textile color fastness test", and the gray card is used to assess staining.
  • the color fastness to perspiration is determined in accordance with GB/T 3922-2013 "Textile color fastness test for color fastness to perspiration", and it is graded with a gray card for evaluating staining.
  • the rayon fabric has poor dimensional stability due to its fiber characteristics such as loose structure and swelling, so the shrinkage rate is an important physical test index for rayon fabric.
  • loose water washing is used. After drying, the warp shrinkage rate is much larger than that of the weft direction. Therefore, under the premise of ensuring the width of the door, the positive overfeeding must be applied to reduce the shrinkage rate in the warp direction.
  • the setting machine in the drying and setting process hits 8-12 positive overfeeds. See Table 4 for the influence of setting overfeeding on the shrinkage rate of rayon fabric.
  • the shrinkage rate is measured using FOM71 Electrolux shrinkage rate testing machine.
  • the shrinkage rate is in accordance with GB/T 8628-2013 "Preparation, marking and measurement of fabric samples and clothing in the test of textile measurement dimensional changes", GB/T 8629-2017 “Household washing and drying procedures for textile testing”, GB/T 8630-2013 “Determination of the dimensional change of textiles after washing and drying”.
  • the present invention designs a reasonable printing prescription and printing process according to the characteristics of the rayon fabric, so that the fabric after rotary screen and reactive printing is bright and full, the color is fully uniform, the pattern outline is clear, the permeability is good, and the hand feels soft. , Can meet the needs of taking;
  • the present invention uses steaming fixation and washing and fixation to improve the color fastness of the printed rayon fabric.
  • the color fastness can generally reach level 3 or higher, which can well meet customer requirements and consumption. demand;
  • the washing dimensional change rate (shrinkage rate) of the fabric is between -3% and 3%, which improves the dimensional stability of the fabric.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Molecular Biology (AREA)
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Abstract

一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺，包括如下步骤：(1)印花糊料的配制，印花糊料是由海藻酸钠和增稠剂FS-80混合配制而成；(2)印花色浆的配制，印花色浆的处方：活性染料x％、尿素5-15％、碳酸氢钠2-3％、防染盐S 1-2％、印花糊料60-80％，余量为水；用少量水先将活性染料调成浆状染料液，将尿素、碳酸氢钠、防染盐S和印花糊料混合，加水搅拌均匀，然后加入浆状染料液，搅拌均匀，制得印花色浆；(3)印花，利用圆网以及印花色浆对织物进行印花；(4)后处理，将印花后的织物经过蒸化固色、水洗、水洗后固色、烘干定型。利用该印花工艺印花后的织物色彩稳定，发色充分均匀，花型轮廓清晰，色牢度好，尺寸稳定性好，可以很好的满足服用需求。

Description

一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺 技术领域
本发明属于纺织品印染技术领域，特别涉及一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺。
背景技术
人造棉，又称粘胶，是再生纤维中的主要品种，其工业化生产已有100多年历史。随着人民生活水平的大幅度提高，服装的流行周期越来越短，一些纤维往日的优点如强力高、耐穿性好等已不再成为优点，而不被重视的缺点如穿着闷热、不透气等在人体自我保健意识增强下日趋受重视，再加上受回归自然思潮的影响，消费者对服装面料的选择越来越趋向于天然纤维。粘胶纤维价格低、吸湿性好、透气性强、手感柔软、穿着舒适、富有光泽，深受广大消费者的喜爱，尤其是印花产品，能顺应服装潮流的不断翻新，使粘胶纤维织物作为服装面料又再一次流行。
目前市场上流行的人造棉面料，有的缎面柔软滑爽富有光泽，有的绉纹细密并带有不规则的冰纹效果，有的形成粗犷的绉效应，有的形成弹性极好的顺纡效果，再加上良好的印花效果，制成宽松、休闲的服装，深受广大消费者的青睐。
人造棉，由于皮芯层结构影响，染料扩散渗透较为困难，一般的色浆印花后，织物表面花色暗淡，生产中常在色浆中加入大量尿素，通过亲水性的氨基和羧基来接近水分子，以帮助染料溶解和使纤维膨化。在印花后的汽蒸固色中，它起到提供所需水分，促进染料扩散的作用。但是大量使用尿素不仅增加了生产成本，也造成废水的污染程度增加。随着环保意识的提高，降低尿素用量的 措施迫在眉睫。
现有的人造棉印花工艺印花后的色彩不稳定，发色不均匀，花型轮廓不够清晰，色牢度差，不能满足服用需求。
发明内容
为解决上述技术问题，本发明的目的在于提供一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺，印花后的织物色彩稳定，发色充分均匀，花型轮廓清晰，色牢度好，尺寸稳定性好，可以很好的满足服用需求。
为实现上述技术目的，达到上述技术效果，本发明通过以下技术方案实现：
一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺，包括如下步骤：
(1)印花糊料的配制
印花糊料是海藻酸钠和增稠剂FS-80以3：7的比例混合配制而成，该增稠剂FS-80是利用聚丙烯酸钠和具有高度亲水性基团的乙烯基单体聚合而成；
(2)印花色浆的配制
印花色浆的处方：活性染料x％、尿素5-15％、碳酸氢钠2-3％、防染盐S1-2％、印花糊料60-80％，余量为水；按照该处方量称取各个原料，用少量水先将活性染料调成浆状染料液，然后将尿素、碳酸氢钠、防染盐S和印花糊料混合，加水，并搅拌均匀，然后加入调制好的浆状染料液，搅拌均匀，制得印花色浆；
(3)印花
根据样品花型确认经纬向后，测量花型尺寸，按照样品花型的尺寸缩小2％后的花型确定为圆网花型，然后对圆网花型进行分色，确定复色点大小，然后根据花型制网，再利用所制得的圆网以及印花色浆对人棉织物进行印花；
(4)后处理
将印花后的人棉织物依次经过蒸化固色、水洗、水洗后固色、烘干定型；其中的蒸化固色采用饱和蒸汽在低温连续长环蒸化机中蒸化固色，蒸化温度为100±3℃，蒸化机车速为20m/min，其中的水洗后固色采用浸轧工艺，该浸轧工艺在定型机上进行，该浸轧工艺采用的浸轧液中含有的固色剂为湿摩擦牢度增进剂TF-239A。
优选的，步骤(4)中的水洗过程采用绳状无张力水洗机进行松式水洗。
优选的，步骤(4)中的水洗后固色过程所采用的定型温度为150℃，定型机车速为50m/min，定型机打12个正超喂。
优选的，所述步骤(4)中的水洗后固色过程所采用的固色剂的用量为20-30g/L。
优选的，所述烘干定型中的定型机打8-12个正超喂。
本发明与现有技术相比具有下列优点和效果：
(1)本发明针对人棉织物的特性设计合理的印花处方和印花工艺，使得经圆网活性印花后的织物色彩鲜艳饱满，发色充分均匀，花型轮廓清晰，渗透性好，手感柔软，可以很好的满足服用需求；
(2)本发明采用了蒸化固色和水洗后固色，提高了印花后的人棉织物的色牢度，色牢度一般能达到3级以上，可以很好的满足客户的要求和服用需求；
(3)利用本发明的印花工艺，人棉织物经圆网活性印花后，织物的水洗尺寸变化率(缩水率)在-3％至3％之间，提高了织物的尺寸稳定性。
具体实施方式
下面对本发明的较佳实施例进行详细阐述，以使本发明的优点和特征能更 易于被本领域技术人员理解，从而对本发明的保护范围做出更为清楚明确的界定。
实施例
人造棉织物(经纬密度460根/10cm×280根/10cm，表面面密度160g/m 2，织物米克重250g/m，支数28S×29S)。
该实施例所采用的染料、各种助剂以及使用的设备的厂家及型号如下：
活性染料DS-DH黑(吴江桃源染料有限公司)，P-SGN黑、P-3R艳蓝(苏州益友有限公司)，BPS藏青、BPS红、BPS大红(苏州天时工贸有限公司)，P-2RN金黄(广东德美精细化工集团股份有限公司)。
各种助剂海藻酸钠(青岛明月海藻集团有限公司)，白底防污剂BPW、FS-80增稠剂(辽宁恒星精细化工有限公司)，尿素(江苏华昌化工股份有限公司)，碳酸氢钠(河南桐柏博源新型化工有限公司)，防染盐S(河南省泌阳县顺通化工有限公司)，柠檬酸(潍坊英轩实业有限公司)，柔软剂707(上海锦迪助剂材料有限公司)，湿摩擦牢度增进剂TF-239A(浙江传化智联股份有限公司)。
设备蓝光制网机(绍兴县轻纺科技中心有限公司)，自动调浆机(意大利皮洛瓦诺有限公司)，圆网磁棒印花机(齐玛机械制造有限公司)，低温长环蒸化机(江阴市永欣印染机械有限公司)，绳状无张力水洗机(江阴市永欣印染机械有限公司)，拉幅定型机(美国力根公司)，整纬机(德国玛诺公司)，Y571B型摩擦色牢度仪(宁波纺织仪器厂)，SW-24耐洗色牢度试验机(宁波纺织仪器厂)，M232型汗渍色牢度仪(宁波纺织仪器厂)，Y902N型汗渍色牢度烘箱(宁波纺织仪器厂)，FOM71伊莱克斯缩水率试验机(瑞典Electrolux)。
染料的选择过程
染料配方尽量选择色光接近来样的基本染料拼色，选用配伍性一致的染料，所选染料品种越少，越容易控制色光的变化。
一般纤维素纤维印花用的活性染料有K型、P型、BPS型和PN型。K型是传统的活性染料，其色泽鲜艳，价格便宜，但固色率低，提升力差，且部分染料水溶性差，水洗沾色严重，不适合做深色；P型是K型的改进版，也是一氯均三嗪单活性基染料，性能有所改善，适合深色；BPS型是双活性基染料，含一氯均三嗪和乙烯砜两个活性基团，固色率、提升力等比K型和P型好；PN型是乙烯砜结构，得色深，但颜色偏旧，耐碱性差。
经过多次小样试验对比，我们从K型、P型、BPS型和PN型燃料中筛选了一部分染料用于人棉印花，例如：DS-DH黑、P-SGN黑、BPS藏青、P-3R艳蓝、PN-A翠兰、P-2RN金黄、BPS红、BPS大红等，大生产做下来染料配伍性较好，颜色稳定性较好，色泽鲜艳。
糊料的选择
人棉印花主要考量得色量、渗透性、抱水性、平整度和脱糊性，经过对比试验(见表1)，本发明最终选择海藻酸钠和增稠剂FS-80以3：7混拼。FS-80是聚丙烯酸钠和具有高度亲水性基团的乙烯基单体聚合而成的增稠剂，与海藻酸钠混拼可以得到理想的效果，且综合成本最低。
表1糊料性能对比
Figure PCTCN2019118855-appb-000001
本实施例所提供的一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺，包括如下步骤：
(1)印花糊料的配制
印花糊料是海藻酸钠和增稠剂FS-80以3：7的比例混合配制而成，该增稠剂FS-80是利用聚丙烯酸钠和具有高度亲水性基团的乙烯基单体聚合而成；
(2)印花色浆的配制
印花色浆的处方：活性染料3％、尿素15％、碳酸氢钠2％、防染盐S 1％、印花糊料70％，水9％；按照该处方量称取各个原料，用少量水先将活性染料调成浆状染料液，然后将尿素、碳酸氢钠、防染盐S和印花糊料混合，加水，并搅拌均匀，然后加入调制好的浆状染料液，搅拌均匀，制得印花色浆；
(3)印花
根据样品花型确认经纬向后，测量花型尺寸，按照样品花型的尺寸缩小2％后的花型确定为圆网花型，然后对圆网花型进行分色，确定复色点大小，然后根据花型制网，再利用所制得的圆网以及印花色浆对人棉织物进行印花；在制网时，根据花型精度和来样品种确定圆网种类及网目数，本实施例选用100目 普通镍网。上胶后在蓝光制网机上进行制网，最后检查修花，保证无多花、漏花、塞网、砂眼、绉印等疵病。
(4)后处理
将印花后的人棉织物依次经过蒸化固色、水洗、水洗后固色、烘干定型；其中的蒸化固色采用饱和蒸汽在低温连续长环蒸化机中蒸化固色，蒸化温度为100±3℃，蒸化机车速为20m/min，其中的水洗后固色采用浸轧工艺，该浸轧工艺在定型机上进行，该浸轧工艺采用的浸轧液中含有的固色剂为湿摩擦牢度增进剂TF-239A。
步骤(4)中的水洗过程采用绳状无张力水洗机进行松式水洗。水洗过程采用8个水槽，其中1#、2#槽为冷水槽，3#-6#为热水槽，温度为85-95℃，加白底防污剂BPW，用量为2-4g/L，7#、8#槽为冷水出水槽。
步骤(4)中的水洗后固色过程所采用的定型温度为150℃，定型机车速为50m/min，定型机打12个正超喂。水洗后固色过程所采用的固色剂相对于浸轧液的用量为20-30g/L。
水洗后固色对耐摩擦色牢度的影响见表2。该耐摩擦色牢度采用Y571B型摩擦色牢度仪进行，并根据GB/T 3920-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐摩擦色牢度》测定，用评定沾色用灰色卡评级。
表2水洗后固色对耐摩擦色牢度的影响
Figure PCTCN2019118855-appb-000002
由表2可知，湿摩擦牢度增进剂TF-239A对人棉织物的耐摩擦色牢度有较好的提升作用，特别是深色的湿摩擦色牢度能提高0.5-1级，而且降低甲醛含量， 符合Oeko-tex Standard 100要求。
水洗后固色对耐水洗色牢度和耐汗渍色牢度的影响见表3。该耐水洗色牢度和耐汗渍色牢度的测试采用SW-24耐洗色牢度试验机和M232型汗渍色牢度仪进行。耐水洗色牢度根据GB/T 3921-2008《纺织品色牢度试验耐皂洗色牢度》测定，用评定沾色用灰色卡评级。耐汗渍色牢度根据GB/T 3922-2013《纺织品色牢度试验耐汗渍色牢度》测定，用评定沾色用灰色卡评级。
表3水洗后固色对常规色牢度的影响
Figure PCTCN2019118855-appb-000003
由表3可知，经过湿摩擦牢度增进剂TF-239A浸轧固色的人棉织物，部分颜色的耐水洗、耐汗渍色牢度也能提高0.5级左右。
人棉织物由于其纤维特性如结构疏松、膨润性等，尺寸稳定性很差，因此缩水率是人棉织物的一项重要的物理检测指标。在人棉织物的印染加工过程中采用松式水洗，烘干后经向缩水率比纬向大得多，因此在保证门幅的前提下必须要打正超喂，减少经向的缩水率。具体的，烘干定型过程中的定型机打8-12个正超喂。定型超喂对人棉织物缩水率的影响见表4。缩水率的测定采用FOM71伊莱克斯缩水率试验机进行。缩水率根据GB/T 8628-2013《纺织品测定尺寸变化的试验中织物试样和服装的准备、标记及测量》、GB/T 8629-2017《纺织品试验用家庭洗涤和干燥程序》、GB/T 8630-2013《纺织品洗涤和干燥后尺寸变化的测定》测定。
表4定型超喂对人棉织物缩水率的影响
Figure PCTCN2019118855-appb-000004
(备注：缩水率为“+”表示伸长，为“-”表示缩短)
由表4可知，烘干过程中，定型机打10个正超喂，织物的缩水率降低，使织物具有较好的织物尺寸稳定性。
本发明的印花工艺具有下列优点和效果：
(1)本发明针对人棉织物的特性设计合理的印花处方和印花工艺，使得经圆网与活性印花后的织物色彩鲜艳饱满，发色充分均匀，花型轮廓清晰，渗透性好，手感柔软，可以很好的满足服用需求；
(2)本发明采用了蒸化固色和水洗后固色，提高了印花后的人棉织物的色牢度，色牢度一般能达到3级以上，可以很好的满足客户的要求和服用需求；
(3)利用本发明的印花工艺，人棉织物经圆网活性印花后，织物的水洗尺寸变化率(缩水率)在-3％至3％之间，提高了织物的尺寸稳定性。
以上所述仅为本发明的实施例，并非因此限制本发明的专利范围，凡是利用本发明说明书内容所作的等效结构或等效流程变换，或直接或间接运用在其他相关的技术领域，均同理包括在本发明的专利保护范围内。

Claims (5)

  1. 一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
    (1)印花糊料的配制
    印花糊料是海藻酸钠和增稠剂FS-80以3：7的比例混合配制而成，该增稠剂FS-80是利用聚丙烯酸钠和具有高度亲水性基团的乙烯基单体聚合而成；
    (2)印花色浆的配制
    印花色浆的处方：活性染料x％、尿素5-15％、碳酸氢钠2-3％、防染盐S1-2％、印花糊料60-80％，余量为水；按照该处方量称取各个原料，用少量水先将活性染料调成浆状染料液，然后将尿素、碳酸氢钠、防染盐S和印花糊料混合，加水，并搅拌均匀，然后加入调制好的浆状染料液，搅拌均匀，制得印花色浆；
    (3)印花
    根据样品花型确认经纬向后，测量花型尺寸，按照样品花型的尺寸缩小2％后的花型确定为圆网花型，然后对圆网花型进行分色，确定复色点大小，然后根据花型制网，再利用所制得的圆网以及印花色浆对人棉织物进行印花；
    (4)后处理
    将印花后的人棉织物依次经过蒸化固色、水洗、水洗后固色、烘干定型；其中的蒸化固色采用饱和蒸汽在低温连续长环蒸化机中蒸化固色，蒸化温度为100±3℃，蒸化机车速为20m/min，其中的水洗后固色采用浸轧工艺，该浸轧工艺在定型机上进行，该浸轧工艺采用的浸轧液中含有的固色剂为湿摩擦牢度增进剂TF-239A。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺，其特征在于：步骤(4)中的水洗过程采用绳状无张力水洗机进行松式水洗。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺，其特征在于：步骤(4)中的水洗后固色过程所采用的定型温度为150℃，定型机车速为50m/min，定型机打12个正超喂。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤(4)中的水洗后固色过程所采用的固色剂的用量为20-30g/L。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的一种人棉织物圆网活性印花工艺，其特征在于：所述烘干定型中的定型机打8-12个正超喂。
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