WO2016039407A1 - 保湿剤及びこれを含有する化粧料 - Google Patents
保湿剤及びこれを含有する化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2016039407A1 WO2016039407A1 PCT/JP2015/075691 JP2015075691W WO2016039407A1 WO 2016039407 A1 WO2016039407 A1 WO 2016039407A1 JP 2015075691 W JP2015075691 W JP 2015075691W WO 2016039407 A1 WO2016039407 A1 WO 2016039407A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a composition containing a specific acylproline or a salt thereof and a pyrrolidone carboxylic acid zinc salt with a specific odor suppressed. Furthermore, it is related with the composition suitable for adding to cosmetics etc. which were excellent in the external appearance containing hydroxycarboxylic acid.
- Acyl amino acid salts are known as low-irritant and highly safe surfactants, and are particularly used in detergents for sensitive skin.
- acylproline salts are known to be useful materials as humectants having hygroscopicity and moisture retention (Patent Documents 1 and 2).
- acylamino acid salts such as acylproline salts have the disadvantage of producing a specific odor when the amount of the compound is increased or when the compound is mixed for a long time. For example, as a method for solving the problem that the unique base odor possessed by an acylamino acid salt is unpleasant, a method of masking the odor using a synthetic perfume has been found.
- Patent Document 3 Japanese Patent Document 3
- masking means “scenting”, cannot be deodorized, and the scent is fixed to cosmetics and the like, so it is avoided to manufacture cosmetics with a unique scent.
- PCA zinc pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
- PCA zinc pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
- An object of the present invention is to provide a composition having a reduced odor of acylproline or a salt thereof, a moist feeling, and excellent stability.
- a composition comprising the following (A) and (B): (A) Acylproline represented by the formula (1) or a salt thereof
- (C) is citric acid.
- a cosmetic comprising the composition according to any one of [1] to [9].
- acyl group represented by R 1 —CO— represents an acyl group derived from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 3 to 23 carbon atoms
- B Pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid zinc salt.
- a method of moisturizing the skin comprising applying to the skin an amount effective to moisturize the skin of a composition comprising the following (A) and (B): (A) Acylproline represented by the formula (1) or a salt thereof
- acyl group represented by R 1 —CO— represents an acyl group derived from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 3 to 23 carbon atoms
- the composition useful as a moisturizer etc. with which the specific odor derived from acylproline or its salt was reduced can be provided. Further, according to the present invention, since a transparent state can be maintained even when acylproline or a salt thereof and PCA zinc are blended, a cosmetic material having an excellent appearance can be produced. Moreover, since the appearance can be freely changed such as coloring, it is useful for the production of cosmetics and the like.
- the present invention provides a composition comprising the following (A) and (B) or (A), (B) and (C): (A) Acylproline represented by the formula (1) or a salt thereof (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as acylproline of the present invention)
- acyl group represented by R 1 —CO— represents an acyl group derived from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 3 to 23 carbon atoms
- B pyrrolidone carboxylic acid zinc salt
- C hydroxycarboxylic acid; (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as composition of the present invention).
- the acyl group represented by R 1 —CO— is an acyl group derived from a fatty acid having 3 to 23 carbon atoms, preferably an acyl group derived from a fatty acid having 4 to 18 carbon atoms, An acyl group derived from a fatty acid having 6 to 14 atoms is more preferable, an acyl group derived from a fatty acid having 10 to 12 carbon atoms is more preferable, and a decanoyl group is further preferable.
- the fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated, but an acyl group derived from a saturated fatty acid is preferred.
- Examples of the acyl group represented by R 1 —CO— include propanoyl group, isopropanoyl group, butanoyl group, isobutanoyl group, sec-butanoyl group, tert-butanoyl group, pentanoyl group, isopentanoyl group, sec- Pentanoyl group, tert-pentanoyl group, hexanoyl group, heptanoyl group, octanoyl group, tert-octanoyl group, 2-ethylhexanoyl group, nonanoyl group, isononanoyl group, decanoyl group, isodecanoyl group, undecanoyl group, lauroyl group, myristoyl group, Examples include palmitoyl group, stearoyl group, eicosanoyl group, behenoyl group, undecylenoyl group
- decanoyl group, lauroyl group, butanoyl group, pentanoyl group, hexanoyl group, octanoyl group, undecanoyl group, myristoyl group, palmitoyl group, stearoyl group, eicosanoyl group, and behenoyl group are preferable, decanoyl group, lauroyl group, octanoyl group, hexanoyl A group is more preferable, and a decanoyl group is more preferable.
- the acylproline represented by the formula (1) is decanoyl proline, lauroyl proline, butanoyl proline, pentanoyl proline, hexanoyl proline, octanoyl proline, undecanoyl proline, myristoyl proline, palmitoyl proline.
- Stearoyl proline, eicosanoyl proline and behenoyl proline are preferred, decanoyl proline, lauroyl proline, octanoyl proline and hexanoyl proline are more preferred, and decanoyl proline is more preferred.
- the long-chain acyl group represented by R 1 —CO— is an acyl group derived from an acid having a single composition, as well as a natural mixture such as coconut oil fatty acid, castor oil fatty acid, olive oil fatty acid, and palm oil fatty acid. It may be an acyl group derived from a fatty acid or a fatty acid obtained by synthesis (including a branched fatty acid). One of these may be used, or two or more selected from the above group may be mixed and used.
- Examples of the salt of the compound of the formula (1) include alkali metal salts such as lithium salt, sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; alkanolamine salts such as triethanolamine salt; ammonium salt And basic organic salt and the like.
- alkali metal salts and ammonium salts are preferable, sodium salts, potassium salts, and ammonium salts are more preferable, sodium salts and potassium salts are further preferable, and sodium salts are particularly preferable.
- the manufacturing method of the compound represented by the formula (I) of the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be easily manufactured by combining known methods. Specifically, it can be prepared by the Schotten-Baumann method using proline and acid chloride. In that case, acid chloride and bases, such as sodium hydroxide, are dripped simultaneously, for example.
- the proline may be L-form, D-form, or a mixture thereof, but is preferably L-form.
- the compound represented by the formula (I) or a salt thereof may be any of the above-described chemical synthesis methods, natural products derived from animals and plants, those obtained by fermentation methods or genetic recombination methods, and commercially available products. Also good.
- the content of acylproline or a salt thereof in the composition of the present invention is preferably 0.001 to 40% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.
- the lower limit is more preferably 0.01% by weight, more preferably 0.05% by weight, and particularly preferably 0.1% by weight.
- the upper limit is preferably 35% by weight, more preferably 30% by weight, still more preferably 20% by weight, still more preferably 15% by weight, particularly preferably 10% by weight, and 5% by weight. % Is most preferred.
- the acylproline salt content can be converted from the acylproline free form.
- PCA zinc Zinc pyrrolidone carboxylic acid zinc salt
- L-PCA zinc salt and DL-PCA zinc salt can be used, and L-PCA zinc salt is preferred. Used. These can be used alone or in combination. When a DL form is used, the ratio of the D form and the L form is not particularly limited.
- PCA zinc may be any of chemical synthesis methods, natural products derived from animals and plants, those obtained by fermentation methods or gene recombination methods, and commercially available products.
- the content of (B) PCA zinc is usually 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight.
- the lower limit is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.1% by weight, and the upper limit is preferably 5% by weight, more preferably 4% by weight.
- the amount is less than 0.01% by weight, the effect of reducing the odor of (A) and the anti-inflammatory effect are not sufficiently exhibited, and when the amount exceeds 10% by weight, the skin feels squeezed. There are problems and neither is desirable. Reducing the odor means that the unique odor is weakened and not bothered or felt.
- the acylproline or its salt of the present invention has both hygroscopicity and moisture retention.
- PCA is one of the components of the natural moisturizing factor, which is an important component that keeps the moisturizing component in the skin's keratin.
- PCA zinc functionalized by combining PCA with zinc is the moisturizing property of PCA.
- the antibacterial activity of zinc and zinc is known to suppress sebum, prevent bacterial growth, and suppress skin inflammation, and is expected to condition skin to suppress collagen degradation. Therefore, acylproline or a salt thereof and PCA zinc can be used as a moisturizer (humidity-retaining composition) or an anti-inflammatory agent (anti-inflammatory composition) in combination with the above (C) and other components. .
- composition of the present invention can be blended in cosmetics (including quasi drugs) and the like.
- the humectant means that it gives a moist and moist feel to the skin and hair.
- an anti-inflammatory agent means the useful formulation which suppresses skin inflammation.
- (A) is 1 part by weight
- (B) is usually 0.1 to 20 parts by weight, preferably 0.2 to 10 parts by weight, More preferred is 4.0 parts by weight. If it is in the said range, the composition excellent in the reduction effect with respect to the specific odor of (A) and the moisturizing effect can be provided.
- the hydroxycarboxylic acid used in the present invention is a carboxylic acid having a hydroxy group, and is widely distributed in the living body including a TCA circuit.
- the hydroxycarboxylic acid any of a chemical synthesis method, a natural product derived from an animal or a plant, a product obtained by a fermentation method or a gene recombination method, or a commercially available product may be used.
- Hydroxycarboxylic acids include aliphatic hydroxy acids: glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartronic acid, glyceric acid, hydroxybutyric acid (2-hydroxybutyric acid, 3-hydroxybutyric acid, ⁇ -hydroxybutyric acid), malic acid, tartaric acid, citramalic acid, citric acid Acid, isocitric acid, leucine acid, mevalonic acid, pantoic acid, pantothenic acid, ricinoleic acid, ricinaleic acid, cerebronic acid, quinic acid, shikimic acid, etc .; aromatic hydroxy acid: monohydroxybenzoic acid derivative (salicylic acid, creosotenic acid ( Homosalicylic acid, hydroxy (methyl) benzoic acid), vanillic acid, syringic acid, etc.); dihydroxybenzoic acid derivatives (pyrocatechuic acid, resorcylic acid, protocatechuic acid, gentisic acid, orthoric acid, etc.); trihydroxybenzoic acid
- the content of hydroxycarboxylic acid is usually 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight. In the said range, a transparent solution can be provided, without producing precipitation in the composition containing (A) and (B). On the other hand, when the amount exceeds 10% by weight, irritation may be felt.
- the weight ratio (B) / (C) of (B) to (C) is usually less than 1 from the viewpoint of the solubility of the precipitate formed in the composition containing (A) and (B). .98 or less is preferable, and 0.90 or less is more preferable. Within this range, a clear solution can be provided without causing precipitation. Although a minimum is not specifically limited, It is 0.01 or more, Preferably it is 0.05 or more.
- the method for producing the composition of the present invention is not particularly limited except that the ratio of (B) / (C) is adjusted when (C) is added. You may combine suitably.
- Cosmetics containing the composition of the present invention are also included in the present invention.
- cosmetics include face wash, lotion, milky lotion, cream, gel, serum, mask, soap, body shampoo, white powder, foundation, lipstick, teak, eyeliner, mascara, eye shadow, eyebrow, etc.
- face wash, lotion, milky lotion, cream, gel, cosmetic liquid, Body shampoo and shampoo are more preferable.
- ingredients that may be added to normal cosmetics may be blended within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.
- Oils include fatty acids such as isostearic acid, undecylenic acid, oleic acid; myristyl myristate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, glyceryl monostearate, diethyl phthalate, monostearic acid Esters such as ethylene glycol, cetyl octoate, octyl oxystearate, alkyl benzoate; hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, polyisobutene, petrolatum, squalane; waxes such as lanolin, reduced lanolin and carnauba wax; silicone oils; mink oil; Fats and oils such as cocoa oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, camellia oil, sesame oil, castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil; ethylene / ⁇ -olefin / co-oligomer
- silicone oils include methylpolysiloxane, highly polymerized methylpolysiloxane, polyoxyethylene / methylpolysiloxane copolymer, polyoxypropylene / methylpolysiloxane copolymer, and poly (oxyethylene, oxypropylene) / methyl.
- Ether-modified silicone such as polysiloxane copolymer, stearoxymethylpolysiloxane, stearoxytrimethylsilane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, tetrahydrotetramethylcyclotetrasiloxane, methylcyclopoly Cyclic silicones such as siloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; methylphenylpolysiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, aminoethylaminopropyl Amino-modified silicone such as siloxane / dimethylsiloxane copolymer, silanol-modified polysiloxane, alkoxy-modified polysiloxane, fatty acid-modified polysiloxane, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, epoxy-modified polys
- the chelating agent is not particularly limited, but preferably triethylenetetramine, 2-thenoyltrifluoroacetone, thioglycolic acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, 8-quinolinol, pyridine-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, pyridine, 1, 10-phenanthroline, lactic acid, 8-hydroxyquinoline-5-sulfonic acid, glycine, 2,2′-pyridylethylenediamine, aurintricarboxylic acid, xylenol orange, 5-sulfosalicylic acid, salicylic acid, pyrocatechol-3,5-disulfonate, 4,5-dihydroxybenzene-1,3-disulfonic acid, 1,2-diaminocyclohexane-N, N, N ′, N′-tetraacetic acid, citric acid, oxalate, nitrilotriacetic acid, ethylenediamine-N,
- the surfactant examples include N-long chain acyl amino acid salts such as N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid salts and N-long chain acyl neutral amino acid salts, N-long chain fatty acid acyl-N-methyl taurine salts, alkyls.
- Anionic surfactants such as sulfates and their alkylene oxide adducts, fatty acid amide ether sulfates, fatty acid metal salts and weak base salts, sulfosuccinic acid surfactants, alkyl phosphates and their alkylene oxide adducts, alkyl ether carboxylic acids; Ether type surfactants such as glycerin ether and its alkylene oxide adduct, ether ester type surfactants such as alkylene oxide adduct of glycerin ester, alkylene oxide adduct of sorbitan ester, polyoxyalkylene fatty acid ester, glycerin ester Ester surfactants such as fatty acid polyglycerin ester, sorbitan ester, sucrose fatty acid ester, alkyl glucosides, hydrogenated castor oil pyroglutamic acid diester and its ethylene oxide adduct, and nitrogen-containing nonionic interface
- the powder examples include resin powders such as nylon beads and silicone beads, nylon powder, metal fatty acid soap, yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, chromium oxide, cobalt oxide, carbon black, ultramarine, bitumen, Zinc oxide, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicon oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, titanium mica, boron nitride, barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, silicon carbide, dye, lake, sericite, mica , Talc, kaolin, plate-like barium sulfate, butterfly-like barium sulfate, fine particle titanium oxide, fine particle zinc oxide, fine particle iron oxide, acyl lysine, acyl glutamic acid, acyl arginine, acyl glycine, and the like, and further silicone treatment, Fluorine compound Management, silane coupling agent treatment, silane treatment organic titanate process, acylated lysine treatment, fatty acid treatment, metal
- amino acids examples include glycine, alanine, serine, threonine, arginine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, isoleucine, leucine, and valine.
- polyamino acids and salts thereof examples include polyglutamic acid and polyaspartic acid.
- sugar alcohol and its alkylene oxide adduct examples include mannitol and sorbitol.
- lower alcohols examples include ethanol and propanol.
- Other additives include animal and plant extracts such as lecithin and gelatin; nucleic acids such as disodium 5'-inosinate and disodium 5'-uridylate; vitamins such as vitamins A and C and derivatives thereof; papain Enzymes such as proteases; anti-inflammatory agents such as potassium glycyrrhizinate; bactericides such as triclosan, trichlorocarban, octopirox and zinc pyrithione; antiseptics such as methylparaben and butylparaben; antioxidants such as dibutylhydroxytoluene; isopentyl Moisturizers such as diol and rubitol; thickeners such as hydroxypropyl starch phosphate; viscosity modifiers such as polyoxyalkylene sorbitan ester, polyoxyethylene glycol distearate, and ethanol; ultraviolet absorbers such as octyl meth
- Antiperspirants pigments such as titanium dioxide; tar-type dyes, inorganic dyes, dyes such as dyes derived from natural bases; fragrances; pH adjusters such as citric acid, trisodium citrate, sodium carbonate, and phosphoric acid
- a pearlizing agent such as ethylene glycol distearate; a wetting agent such as propylene glycol;
- the present invention also includes a moisturizing method or inflammation suppressing method characterized by applying a composition containing (A), (B) and (C) to a subject.
- a composition containing (A), (B) and (C) Each definition is as described above.
- application refers to acylproline or a salt thereof alone or in the form of a composition or cosmetic as described above, and an effective amount of (A) or (B) is locally applied to the skin or the like. Means to apply. For example, it may be applied to the skin in the form of cream or gel, or sprayed with a liquid preparation.
- the “effective amount” varies depending on the age, sex, symptom, application site, composition dosage form, and the like of the subject, but includes an amount to apply the above-described composition or the like according to the symptom.
- a method for suppressing the formation of insoluble solids in the composition containing (A) and (B), including the step of coexisting (C) is also included in the present invention.
- the formation of insoluble solids can be suppressed and the composition can be made transparent simply by coexisting (C), and an optimal composition for cosmetics and the like can be prepared.
- Each definition, amount, etc. are as described above.
- a skin moisturizing method comprising applying to the skin an amount effective to moisturize the skin of the composition comprising the above (A) and (B) is also included in the present invention.
- a non-therapeutic skin care or cosmetic treatment method for making up the skin which comprises applying to the skin a composition comprising the above (A) and (B).
- the definition of the composition is as described above.
- ⁇ Synthesis Example 2 Synthesis of decanoyl proline sodium salt After suspending the decanoyl proline obtained in Synthesis Example 1 with an appropriate amount of water, the solution is neutralized to pH 7 with sodium hydroxide and concentrated to dryness. To obtain decanoylproline sodium salt.
- Decanoylproline Na, PCA zinc and citric acid were added to water at the concentrations shown in Table 1, and the pH was adjusted to 5.7 with hydrochloric acid or aqueous sodium hydroxide solution.
- the test composition was completely sealed in a 30 mL glass bottle, stored at 45 ° C. for 4 months, then returned to room temperature and evaluated as follows.
- ⁇ Evaluation 2 of prescription> Specific odor The specific odor of the composition of the present invention was tested by 8 healthy men and women. It was investigated whether or not the specific odor of the composition prepared as described above was worrisome and evaluated according to the following criteria. ⁇ More than 6 subjects answered that they did not care about the specific odor. ⁇ Four or five subjects answered that they did not care about the specific odor. ⁇ Three or less subjects answered that they did not mind the specific odor. In addition, the test subject was made to recognize the smell of decanoyl proline Na beforehand as a specific odor of A component.
- the moist feeling of the composition of the present invention was tested by 8 healthy men and women. Each of the compositions prepared as described above was applied to the skin on the inner side of the forearm within an area of 8 ⁇ 2 cm, and whether or not a moist feeling was felt was examined and evaluated according to the following criteria. ⁇ More than 6 subjects answered that they were moist. ⁇ Four or five subjects answered that they were moist. ⁇ Three or less subjects answered that they were moist.
- Each compounding amount in this example is expressed by weight%. Moreover, in the table
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Abstract
Description
一方、アシルプロリン塩等のアシルアミノ酸塩は、その配合量を増加させたり、配合から長時間経つと、特異臭を生じるという欠点があった。
例えば、アシルアミノ酸塩の有する独特な基剤臭が不快であるという問題を解決する方法として、合成香料を用いて臭いをマスキングする方法が見出されている。しかし、肌が敏感な者の中には合成香料にアレルギーを示す者がおり、安全性面に問題があることが示唆されている(特許文献3)。すなわち、アシルアミノ酸塩を化粧品等に配合させる場合には、特異臭をマスキングすることが行われている。この場合、マスキングは「匂いをつける」ことを意味し、消臭することはできず、匂いが化粧品等に固定されるため、独自の香りもつける化粧品の製造には敬遠されている。
[1]以下の(A)および(B)を含む組成物:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩。
[2](A)において、式中、R1-CO-で表されるアシル基が炭素原子数6~14の飽和または不飽和脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基である[1]に記載の組成物。
[3]式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンがデカノイルプロリンである[1]または[2]に記載の組成物。
[4]式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンの塩が、ナトリウム塩である[1]~[3]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
[5](A)の含有量が、組成物の全重量に対して0.001重量%~40重量%である[1]~[4]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
[6](B)の含有量が、組成物の全重量に対して0.01重量%~10重量%である[1]~[5]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
[7]さらに(C)ヒドロキシカルボン酸を含む、[1]~[6]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
[8](C)がクエン酸である、[7]に記載の組成物。
[9](B)の(C)に対する重量比(B)/(C)が1未満である[7]または[8]に記載の組成物。
[10]保湿剤である[1]~[9]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
[11][1]~[9]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物を含む化粧料。
[12]以下の(A)を含む組成物における(A)の臭いの低減方法であって、(B)を共存させる工程を含む方法:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩。
[13]以下の(A)および(B)を含む組成物における不溶性固形物の生成抑制方法であって、(C)を共存させる工程を含む方法:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩、
(C)ヒドロキシカルボン酸。
[14]以下の(A)および(B)を含む組成物の皮膚に潤いを与えるのに有効な量を皮膚に適用することを含む、皮膚の保湿方法:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩。
また本発明によれば、アシルプロリンまたはその塩とPCA亜鉛を配合しても透明な状態を維持できるため、外観の優れた化粧料等を製造できる。
また着色等外観の変更が自由にできるため化粧料等の製造に有用である。
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩(以下本発明のアシルプロリンと略すときもある)
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩、
(C)ヒドロキシカルボン酸;に関する(以下本発明の組成物と略すときもある)。
本発明で用いられるアシルプロリンは、式(1)で表される。
R1-CO-で表されるアシル基は炭素原子数3~23の脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基であり、炭素原子数4~18の脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基であることが好ましく、炭素原子数6~14の脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基であることがより好ましく、炭素原子数10~12の脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基であることがさらに好ましく、デカノイル基がさらに好ましい。当脂肪酸は飽和または不飽和のいずれでもよいが、飽和脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基が好ましい。
また式(I)で表される化合物又はその塩は、上記化学合成法、動物や植物に由来する天然のもの、発酵法又は遺伝子組換法によって得られるものや市販品のいずれを使用してもよい。
本発明に用いられるピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩(PCA亜鉛)としては、L-PCA亜鉛塩やDL-PCA亜鉛塩を用いることができるが、L-PCA亜鉛塩が好ましく用いられる。これらを単独あるいは混合して用いることが可能であり、DL体を用いる場合、D体とL体の比率は特に限定されない。またPCA亜鉛は、化学合成法、動物や植物に由来する天然のもの、発酵法又は遺伝子組換法によって得られるものや市販品のいずれを使用してもよい。
臭いを低減するとは、特異な臭いが弱くなり気にならなくなる、又は感じられなくなることを意味する。
一方PCAは、肌の角質において、潤い成分を保つ役割をもつ重要な成分である天然保湿因子を構成する成分のひとつであり、PCAに亜鉛を組み合わせて機能化したPCA亜鉛は、PCAの保湿性と亜鉛の抗菌力により、皮脂の抑制、菌の繁殖抑制、また皮膚炎症抑制作用があることが知られ、コラーゲンの分解を抑制するため肌のコンディションを整えることが期待されている。
したがってアシルプロリンまたはその塩およびPCA亜鉛は、上記(C)、さらには他の成分と組み合わせて、保湿剤(保湿用組成物)や抗炎症剤(抗炎症用組成物)として使用することができる。本発明の組成物は、化粧料(医薬部外品を含む)等に配合することができる。
本発明において、保湿剤とは皮膚、毛髪にうるおいのあるしっとりとした感触を与えるものであることを意味する。
また本発明において、抗炎症剤とは皮膚炎症を抑制する有用な製剤を意味する。
本発明に用いられるヒドロキシカルボン酸は、ヒドロキシ基を併せ持つカルボン酸であり、TCA回路を初めとして生体内に広く分布している。ヒドロキシカルボン酸は、化学合成法、動物や植物に由来する天然のもの、発酵法又は遺伝子組換法によって得られるものや市販品のいずれを使用してもよい。
ここで適用とは、アシルプロリンまたはその塩を単独で、または上述のような組成物や化粧料の形態で、それを要する対象に有効量の(A)や(B)を皮膚等へ局所的に適用することを意味する。例えば、クリームやゲル等の形態で皮膚上に塗布することや液体製剤を噴霧すること等が挙げられる。一般的には「有効量」は、対象の年齢、性別、症状、適用部位、組成物の剤形等により変化するが、上述の組成物等を症状に応じて適用する量が挙げられる。
また上記(A)および(B)を含む組成物を皮膚に適用することを含む、非治療的スキンケアや皮膚をメーキャップするための、美容トリートメント方法も本発明に含まれる。当該組成物の定義等は既述に準じる。
プロリン(味の素社製)34.54gを100gの水に溶解後、デカノイルクロライド(東京化成社製)52.01gと25%水酸化ナトリウム水溶液をpHを12に調整しながら加えた。75%硫酸を加えて中和し、水層を除去後、さらに水と酢酸エチルを加え、水層を除去した。酢酸エチルを減圧留去し、デカノイルプロリン68.12gを得た。
合成例1で得られたデカノイルプロリンを、適当な量の水と懸濁後、水酸化ナトリウムでpHを7まで中和し、濃縮乾燥することによりデカノイルプロリンナトリウム塩を得た。
プロリンとラウロイルクロライド(東京化成製)を用い、合成例1と同様の方法でラウロイルプロリンを得た。
合成例3で得られたラウロイルプロリンを用い、合成例2と同様の方法でラウロイルプロリンナトリウム塩を得た。
前記のように調製した組成物の溶状を確認し、下記の基準にて評価した。
○ 透明の水溶液が得られた。
× 沈殿が確認された。
本発明の組成物の特異臭について、健康な男女8名により試験した。前記のように調製した組成物の特異臭が気になったかどうかを調査し、下記の基準にて評価した。
○ 被験者の6名以上が特異臭は気にならないと回答した。
△ 被験者の4名または5名が特異臭は気にならないと回答した。
× 被験者の3人以下が特異臭は気にならないと回答した。
なお、被験者には、A成分の特異臭として、あらかじめデカノイルプロリンNaの臭いを認識させた。
本発明の組成物のしっとり感について、健康な男女8名により試験した。前記のように調製した組成物を前腕内側の皮膚8×2cm以内の範囲にそれぞれ塗布し、しっとり感を感じたかどうかを調査し下記の基準にて評価した。
○ 被験者の6名以上がしっとりすると回答した。
△ 被験者の4名または5名がしっとりすると回答した。
× 被験者の3名以下がしっとりすると回答した。
Claims (13)
- (A)において、式中、R1-CO-で表されるアシル基が炭素原子数6~14の飽和または不飽和脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基である請求項1に記載の組成物。
- 式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンがデカノイルプロリンである請求項1または2に記載の組成物。
- 式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンの塩が、ナトリウム塩である請求項1~3のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- (A)の含有量が、組成物の全重量に対して0.001重量%~40重量%である請求項1~4のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- (B)の含有量が、組成物の全重量に対して0.01重量%~10重量%である請求項1~5のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- さらに(C)ヒドロキシカルボン酸を含む、請求項1~6のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- (C)がクエン酸である、請求項7に記載の組成物。
- (B)の(C)に対する重量比(B)/(C)が1未満である請求項7または8に記載の組成物。
- 保湿剤である請求項1~9のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- 請求項1~9のいずれか1項に記載の組成物を含む化粧料。
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WO2016195038A1 (ja) * | 2015-06-02 | 2016-12-08 | 味の素株式会社 | アシルプロリンを含有する化粧料組成物 |
WO2017094852A1 (ja) * | 2015-12-02 | 2017-06-08 | 味の素株式会社 | 外用組成物 |
WO2020196424A1 (ja) | 2019-03-28 | 2020-10-01 | 住友ベークライト株式会社 | 水溶性添加剤組成物 |
WO2022270554A1 (ja) * | 2021-06-23 | 2022-12-29 | 味の素株式会社 | 化粧料用組成物 |
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EP3192493A1 (en) | 2017-07-19 |
JP6645434B2 (ja) | 2020-02-14 |
US20170181947A1 (en) | 2017-06-29 |
EP3192493A4 (en) | 2018-09-19 |
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