JPWO2016039407A1 - 保湿剤及びこれを含有する化粧料 - Google Patents
保湿剤及びこれを含有する化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- JPWO2016039407A1 JPWO2016039407A1 JP2016547496A JP2016547496A JPWO2016039407A1 JP WO2016039407 A1 JPWO2016039407 A1 JP WO2016039407A1 JP 2016547496 A JP2016547496 A JP 2016547496A JP 2016547496 A JP2016547496 A JP 2016547496A JP WO2016039407 A1 JPWO2016039407 A1 JP WO2016039407A1
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- acid
- composition
- salt
- acyl group
- formula
- Prior art date
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Abstract
Description
一方、アシルプロリン塩等のアシルアミノ酸塩は、その配合量を増加させたり、配合から長時間経つと、特異臭を生じるという欠点があった。
例えば、アシルアミノ酸塩の有する独特な基剤臭が不快であるという問題を解決する方法として、合成香料を用いて臭いをマスキングする方法が見出されている。しかし、肌が敏感な者の中には合成香料にアレルギーを示す者がおり、安全性面に問題があることが示唆されている(特許文献3)。すなわち、アシルアミノ酸塩を化粧品等に配合させる場合には、特異臭をマスキングすることが行われている。この場合、マスキングは「匂いをつける」ことを意味し、消臭することはできず、匂いが化粧品等に固定されるため、独自の香りもつける化粧品の製造には敬遠されている。
[1]以下の(A)および(B)を含む組成物:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩。
[2](A)において、式中、R1−CO−で表されるアシル基が炭素原子数6〜14の飽和または不飽和脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基である[1]に記載の組成物。
[3]式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンがデカノイルプロリンである[1]または[2]に記載の組成物。
[4]式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンの塩が、ナトリウム塩である[1]〜[3]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
[5](A)の含有量が、組成物の全重量に対して0.001重量%〜40重量%である[1]〜[4]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
[6](B)の含有量が、組成物の全重量に対して0.01重量%〜10重量%である[1]〜[5]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
[7]さらに(C)ヒドロキシカルボン酸を含む、[1]〜[6]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
[8](C)がクエン酸である、[7]に記載の組成物。
[9](B)の(C)に対する重量比(B)/(C)が1未満である[7]または[8]に記載の組成物。
[10]保湿剤である[1]〜[9]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
[11][1]〜[9]のいずれか1項に記載の組成物を含む化粧料。
[12]以下の(A)を含む組成物における(A)の臭いの低減方法であって、(B)を共存させる工程を含む方法:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩。
[13]以下の(A)および(B)を含む組成物における不溶性固形物の生成抑制方法であって、(C)を共存させる工程を含む方法:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩、
(C)ヒドロキシカルボン酸。
[14]以下の(A)および(B)を含む組成物の皮膚に潤いを与えるのに有効な量を皮膚に適用することを含む、皮膚の保湿方法:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩。
また本発明によれば、アシルプロリンまたはその塩とPCA亜鉛を配合しても透明な状態を維持できるため、外観の優れた化粧料等を製造できる。
また着色等外観の変更が自由にできるため化粧料等の製造に有用である。
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩(以下本発明のアシルプロリンと略すときもある)
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩、
(C)ヒドロキシカルボン酸;に関する(以下本発明の組成物と略すときもある)。
本発明で用いられるアシルプロリンは、式(1)で表される。
R1−CO−で表されるアシル基は炭素原子数3〜23の脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基であり、炭素原子数4〜18の脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基であることが好ましく、炭素原子数6〜14の脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基であることがより好ましく、炭素原子数10〜12の脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基であることがさらに好ましく、デカノイル基がさらに好ましい。当脂肪酸は飽和または不飽和のいずれでもよいが、飽和脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基が好ましい。
また式(I)で表される化合物又はその塩は、上記化学合成法、動物や植物に由来する天然のもの、発酵法又は遺伝子組換法によって得られるものや市販品のいずれを使用してもよい。
本発明に用いられるピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩(PCA亜鉛)としては、L−PCA亜鉛塩やDL−PCA亜鉛塩を用いることができるが、L−PCA亜鉛塩が好ましく用いられる。これらを単独あるいは混合して用いることが可能であり、DL体を用いる場合、D体とL体の比率は特に限定されない。またPCA亜鉛は、化学合成法、動物や植物に由来する天然のもの、発酵法又は遺伝子組換法によって得られるものや市販品のいずれを使用してもよい。
臭いを低減するとは、特異な臭いが弱くなり気にならなくなる、又は感じられなくなることを意味する。
一方PCAは、肌の角質において、潤い成分を保つ役割をもつ重要な成分である天然保湿因子を構成する成分のひとつであり、PCAに亜鉛を組み合わせて機能化したPCA亜鉛は、PCAの保湿性と亜鉛の抗菌力により、皮脂の抑制、菌の繁殖抑制、また皮膚炎症抑制作用があることが知られ、コラーゲンの分解を抑制するため肌のコンディションを整えることが期待されている。
したがってアシルプロリンまたはその塩およびPCA亜鉛は、上記(C)、さらには他の成分と組み合わせて、保湿剤(保湿用組成物)や抗炎症剤(抗炎症用組成物)として使用することができる。本発明の組成物は、化粧料(医薬部外品を含む)等に配合することができる。
本発明において、保湿剤とは皮膚、毛髪にうるおいのあるしっとりとした感触を与えるものであることを意味する。
また本発明において、抗炎症剤とは皮膚炎症を抑制する有用な製剤を意味する。
本発明に用いられるヒドロキシカルボン酸は、ヒドロキシ基を併せ持つカルボン酸であり、TCA回路を初めとして生体内に広く分布している。ヒドロキシカルボン酸は、化学合成法、動物や植物に由来する天然のもの、発酵法又は遺伝子組換法によって得られるものや市販品のいずれを使用してもよい。
ここで適用とは、アシルプロリンまたはその塩を単独で、または上述のような組成物や化粧料の形態で、それを要する対象に有効量の(A)や(B)を皮膚等へ局所的に適用することを意味する。例えば、クリームやゲル等の形態で皮膚上に塗布することや液体製剤を噴霧すること等が挙げられる。一般的には「有効量」は、対象の年齢、性別、症状、適用部位、組成物の剤形等により変化するが、上述の組成物等を症状に応じて適用する量が挙げられる。
また上記(A)および(B)を含む組成物を皮膚に適用することを含む、非治療的スキンケアや皮膚をメーキャップするための、美容トリートメント方法も本発明に含まれる。当該組成物の定義等は既述に準じる。
プロリン(味の素社製)34.54gを100gの水に溶解後、デカノイルクロライド(東京化成社製)52.01gと25%水酸化ナトリウム水溶液をpHを12に調整しながら加えた。75%硫酸を加えて中和し、水層を除去後、さらに水と酢酸エチルを加え、水層を除去した。酢酸エチルを減圧留去し、デカノイルプロリン68.12gを得た。
合成例1で得られたデカノイルプロリンを、適当な量の水と懸濁後、水酸化ナトリウムでpHを7まで中和し、濃縮乾燥することによりデカノイルプロリンナトリウム塩を得た。
プロリンとラウロイルクロライド(東京化成製)を用い、合成例1と同様の方法でラウロイルプロリンを得た。
合成例3で得られたラウロイルプロリンを用い、合成例2と同様の方法でラウロイルプロリンナトリウム塩を得た。
前記のように調製した組成物の溶状を確認し、下記の基準にて評価した。
○ 透明の水溶液が得られた。
× 沈殿が確認された。
本発明の組成物の特異臭について、健康な男女8名により試験した。前記のように調製した組成物の特異臭が気になったかどうかを調査し、下記の基準にて評価した。
○ 被験者の6名以上が特異臭は気にならないと回答した。
△ 被験者の4名または5名が特異臭は気にならないと回答した。
× 被験者の3人以下が特異臭は気にならないと回答した。
なお、被験者には、A成分の特異臭として、あらかじめデカノイルプロリンNaの臭いを認識させた。
本発明の組成物のしっとり感について、健康な男女8名により試験した。前記のように調製した組成物を前腕内側の皮膚8×2cm以内の範囲にそれぞれ塗布し、しっとり感を感じたかどうかを調査し下記の基準にて評価した。
○ 被験者の6名以上がしっとりすると回答した。
△ 被験者の4名または5名がしっとりすると回答した。
× 被験者の3名以下がしっとりすると回答した。
Claims (13)
- 以下の(A)および(B)を含む組成物:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(式中R1−CO−で表されるアシル基は炭素原子数3〜23の飽和または不飽和脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基を表す)
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩。 - (A)において、式中、R1−CO−で表されるアシル基が炭素原子数6〜14の飽和または不飽和脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基である請求項1に記載の組成物。
- 式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンがデカノイルプロリンである請求項1または2に記載の組成物。
- 式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンの塩が、ナトリウム塩である請求項1〜3のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- (A)の含有量が、組成物の全重量に対して0.001重量%〜40重量%である請求項1〜4のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- (B)の含有量が、組成物の全重量に対して0.01重量%〜10重量%である請求項1〜5のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- さらに(C)ヒドロキシカルボン酸を含む、請求項1〜6のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- (C)がクエン酸である、請求項7に記載の組成物。
- (B)の(C)に対する重量比(B)/(C)が1未満である請求項7または8に記載の組成物。
- 保湿剤である請求項1〜9のいずれか1項に記載の組成物。
- 請求項1〜9のいずれか1項に記載の組成物を含む化粧料。
- 以下の(A)を含む組成物における(A)の臭いの低減方法であって、(B)を共存させる工程を含む方法:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(式中R1−CO−で表されるアシル基は炭素原子数3〜23の飽和または不飽和脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基を表す)、
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩。 - 以下の(A)および(B)を含む組成物における不溶性固形物の生成抑制方法であって、(C)を共存させる工程を含む方法:
(A)式(1)で表されるアシルプロリンまたはその塩
(式中R1−CO−で表されるアシル基は炭素原子数3〜23の飽和または不飽和脂肪酸より誘導されるアシル基を表す)、
(B)ピロリドンカルボン酸亜鉛塩、
(C)ヒドロキシカルボン酸。
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