WO2012051741A1 - 抑制黑色素生成的甘胺酸衍生物及其美白组合物 - Google Patents

抑制黑色素生成的甘胺酸衍生物及其美白组合物 Download PDF

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WO2012051741A1
WO2012051741A1 PCT/CN2010/001665 CN2010001665W WO2012051741A1 WO 2012051741 A1 WO2012051741 A1 WO 2012051741A1 CN 2010001665 W CN2010001665 W CN 2010001665W WO 2012051741 A1 WO2012051741 A1 WO 2012051741A1
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acid
glycine
weight
glycine derivative
acetylamino
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PCT/CN2010/001665
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English (en)
French (fr)
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徐乃璇
徐巧宣
王思晴
陈婷菀
庞菊宜
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新钰生技股份有限公司
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Priority to US13/128,446 priority Critical patent/US20130195782A1/en
Priority to PCT/CN2010/001665 priority patent/WO2012051741A1/zh
Priority to CN201080002871.7A priority patent/CN103298778B/zh
Priority to ES10858529.0T priority patent/ES2670618T3/es
Priority to KR1020127020368A priority patent/KR101414942B1/ko
Priority to JP2012555272A priority patent/JP5599905B2/ja
Priority to EP10858529.0A priority patent/EP2641894B1/en
Publication of WO2012051741A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012051741A1/zh
Priority to US14/159,741 priority patent/US8927499B2/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/185Acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof, e.g. sulfur acids, imidic, hydrazonic or hydroximic acids
    • A61K31/19Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid
    • A61K31/195Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having an amino group
    • A61K31/197Carboxylic acids, e.g. valproic acid having an amino group the amino and the carboxyl groups being attached to the same acyclic carbon chain, e.g. gamma-aminobutyric acid [GABA], beta-alanine, epsilon-aminocaproic acid or pantothenic acid
    • A61K31/198Alpha-amino acids, e.g. alanine or edetic acid [EDTA]
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07CACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
    • C07C233/00Carboxylic acid amides
    • C07C233/01Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms
    • C07C233/45Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by carboxyl groups
    • C07C233/46Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by carboxyl groups with the substituted hydrocarbon radical bound to the nitrogen atom of the carboxamide group by an acyclic carbon atom
    • C07C233/47Carboxylic acid amides having carbon atoms of carboxamide groups bound to hydrogen atoms or to acyclic carbon atoms having the nitrogen atom of at least one of the carboxamide groups bound to a carbon atom of a hydrocarbon radical substituted by carboxyl groups with the substituted hydrocarbon radical bound to the nitrogen atom of the carboxamide group by an acyclic carbon atom having the carbon atom of the carboxamide group bound to a hydrogen atom or to a carbon atom of an acyclic saturated carbon skeleton
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07CACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
    • C07C237/00Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by amino groups
    • C07C237/02Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by amino groups having the carbon atoms of the carboxamide groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms of the carbon skeleton
    • C07C237/22Carboxylic acid amides, the carbon skeleton of the acid part being further substituted by amino groups having the carbon atoms of the carboxamide groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms of the carbon skeleton having nitrogen atoms of amino groups bound to the carbon skeleton of the acid part, further acylated
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a glycine derivative, and more particularly to a whitening composition having a glycine-staining organism which inhibits the production of melanin and a whitening composition using the same.
  • tyrosinase The mechanism of the formation of melanin (melanin) is thought to be related to tyrosinase.
  • tyrosine the precursor of melanin
  • aminic acid ⁇ Dopa ⁇ Dopaquinone "Dopachrome" - melanin
  • tyrosinase is an important enzyme, which converts tyrosine to dopa by the activity of its hydroxylase, and converts dopa to dopaquinone by the activity of oxidase.
  • melanogenesis substances that inhibit melanogenesis (mel anogenes is), or inhibit any process of melanin biosynthesis, can be used as an active ingredient in skin whitening.
  • the first step in melanin production initiation is by tyrosine
  • the enzyme catalyzes the oxidation of tyrosine to form dopaquinone.
  • tyrosinase inhibitor is one of the active ingredients for skin whitening.
  • whitening main components such as Kojic acid (Kojic ac id), vitamin C derivatives (ascorbic acid derivat ives), and arbutin, are known to have the function of inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Compound.
  • the kojic acid is unstable in solution, resulting in a complicated procedure for formulation (refer to the description of US Pat. No. 6,306, 376), and it can cause skin irritation when applied to skin care products (refer to Contact Dermatitis, Jan 95, Vol. 42 (1) , Page 9 ⁇ 13) , all of which limit the usefulness of their whitening formula.
  • Vitamin C is very unstable and highly susceptible to oxidative deterioration. Therefore, vitamin C derivatives are often used in whitening formulations to enhance the stability of the formulation. However, it is still necessary to add a stabilizer such as sod iuin hydrogen sulfate in the formulation or to prepare a buffer solution to reduce the degree of oxidative discoloration of the formulation. (Refer to the examples of U.S. Patent No. 6,801,050) However, the use of sulfide as a stabilizer is likely to cause a pungent odor in the product (refer to the description of US 6,020,367), so the method is not simultaneously Solve the requirements and problems of color and odor for whitening formulas.
  • a stabilizer such as sod iuin hydrogen sulfate
  • arbutin has a whitening effect
  • its structure is a glycated derivative of hydroquinone (Glycosylated hydroquinone), which is still easily discolored by the oxidation of aromatic phenolic groups in the formulation, which makes the formulation difficult.
  • the low solubility of arbutin in water results in a low whitening effect actually produced by the application of the concentration H in the formulation (refer to Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. 2009-67691), Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2009-67691
  • the use of arbutin-nano-dispersed particles is difficult to manufacture, and the product is not used, and there is a problem that it is not easily absorbed by the skin.
  • dipeptides having a whitening effect are disclosed in Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. Hei 5-032533, No. Hei. No. Hei.
  • the amino acid side chains formed have thiol groups and derivatives thereof or aromatic groups or aromatic phenol groups and derivatives thereof, and the disclosed mechanism of the inhibition of melanin is not clear.
  • the difference in inhibition rate of tyrosinase of dipeptides disclosed in Table 1 of Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 5-170637 can be from 3% to 56%, so that it is not limited to dipeptides.
  • the compound can be a good whitening active ingredient.
  • glycine acid which has a function of inhibiting melanin production and can be used as an active ingredient for skin whitening, and can be applied to each A whitening composition.
  • one of the objects of the present invention is to provide a glycine derivative having a structure which does not have an aromatic group, an aromatic phenol and a biological group thereof, a sterol and a biological group thereof, and which has no optical activity, and is one.
  • a derivative structure having oxidative stability and a single physiological activity. It also has good color stability in the formulation.
  • R 1 represents an alkyl group of C1 C4
  • R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a fluorenyl group
  • n represents an integer of 1 to 6.
  • the glycine derivative is 3 (2-acetylamino-acetylamino)-propionic acid or
  • the glycine derivative is 4-(2-acetetylamino-acetylamino)-butyric acid or Acetyl-Glycine- ⁇ -aminobutyric Acid), having the structure of formula (III) shown below:
  • the glycine derivative is [( 2 -acetamido-acetyl)-mercapto-amino]acetic acid ([(2-Acetylamino-acetyl)-methyl-ami no]-acetic acid Or Acetyl-Glycine- Sarcosine), having the structure of formula (IV) shown below: . (IV)
  • an aqueous solution of 0.05 to 10% by weight of a glycine derivative and a buffer solution thereof are added, and the light transmittance in the wavelength range of 420 to 500 nm is 97% or more.
  • the above buffer solution is formed by citric acid and its salts.
  • the above aqueous solution containing 0.05 to 10% by weight of a glycine derivative and a buffer solution thereof have a light transmittance of 98% or more at a specific wavelength of 440 nm.
  • a whitening composition which is formed by adding 0.05 wt% to 10 wt% (by weight) of the above glycine f; anthraquinone, and has a function of inhibiting melanin production. More preferably, the above whitening composition is formed by adding 0.5 wt% to 2 wt% (by weight) of the above glycine derivative.
  • the mechanism for inhibiting melanin production is not known, the real face is confirmed to have a function of inhibiting melanin production. Moreover, because of its structure, it does not have aromatic groups, aromatic phenols and their guanidine bio-groups, thiols and their "staining bio-groups", which is an oxidatively stable ruthenium biological structure, which is difficult to manufacture and store in whitening formulations. Oxidative deterioration, color stability, no obvious cytotoxicity, harmless to the human body, and convenient for the manufacture, application and storage of whitening compositions, can improve the stability of the formulation.
  • the glycine derivatives of the present invention are not It has no enantiomer, which means that the glycine derivative of the present invention does not cause physiological activity differences due to impurities of other optical isomers, and all added components are active ingredients.
  • the glycine derivative of the present invention is particularly suitable for use in the formulation of a water-based cosmetic care product having a transparent appearance.
  • the present invention relates to a compound which is an active ingredient for whitening. According to the study by the present inventors, it has been found that the whitening effect of the dipeptide is quite different, although various dipeptides having a whitening effect have been disclosed in the literature (for example, Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 5-032533, No. In the case of the dipeptide, which is composed of one amino acid and contains one peptide bond, the present inventors have found that the inhibition of the dipeptide is found in the case of the second peptide.
  • the functions of carbonylation, saccharification, oxidation, etc. vary depending on their structure, and in particular, inhibition of tyrosinase activity or inhibition of polyphenol oxidase activity cannot be determined solely by the peptide bond, that is, The structure of the dipeptide, that is, the properties of the two amino acids constituting the dipeptide, cannot be judged simply by the fact that the dipeptide has a function of inhibiting melanin production. For example, carnos ine is known to act as an antioxidant, but does not have the effect of inhibiting melanin production.
  • ⁇ Inhibit ion of polyphenol oxidases act ivi ty by var ious dipept ides, A. Girel li, E. Mattei, A. Mess ina, and A. Tarola, J. of Agricul tural and Food Chemis try, 2004, 52. 2741-2745), which discloses the inhibition of the activity of various dipeptides on the oxidase activity, and found that not all dipeptides to polyphenol oxidase The activity has an inhibitory effect. Further, for example, in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No.
  • the difference in the inhibition rate of the tyrosine alcohol disclosed by the two peptides disclosed in Table 1 can be from 3% to 56%.
  • the inhibition of tyrosinase by the dipeptide is not determined by the peptide bond, but actually depends on the structure of the dipeptide compound.
  • R 1 represents an alkyl group of CI to C4
  • R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • n represents an integer of from 1 to 6.
  • the glycine derivative is 3 (2-acety lamino-acetylamino)-propionic acid or Acetyl-Glycine- ⁇ -Alanine , having the structure of the chemical formula (II) shown below:
  • the glycine derivative is 4-(2-Acetylamino-acetylamino)-butyric acid. or Acetyl-Glycine-Y- Aminobutyr ic acid ), having the structure of the chemical formula (III) shown below:
  • the glycine derivative is [(2-acetamido-acetyl)-methyl-amino]acetic acid ([(2-Acetylamino-acetyl)-methyl-amino]-acetic acid) Or Acetyl-Glycine- Sarcos ine), having the structure of formula (IV) shown below:
  • an aqueous solution of the glycine derivative of the present invention and a buffer solution thereof in an amount of from 0.05 to 10% by weight (by weight) are added, and the light transmittance in the wavelength range of 420 500 nm is 97% or more.
  • the aqueous solution and the buffer solution to which the above-mentioned glycine acid derivative is added in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, and the light transmittance is 98% or more at a specific wavelength of 440 nm.
  • a whitening composition which is prepared by adding a 0.05% by weight to 10% by weight (by weight) of the glycine derivative according to the present invention, and has an inhibitory effect on melanin production.
  • the above whitening composition is more preferably added by adding a glycine derivative of the present invention in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 2% by weight.
  • the glycine derivative according to the present invention is known to have an effect of inhibiting melanin production via cell solid H.
  • the glycine derivative of the present invention When applied to the skin, the glycine derivative of the present invention has a low molecular weight property and is easily absorbed by the skin, and the glycine derivative of the present invention does not have an optical entropy (no enant iomer), which means that the present invention Glycine f organisms do not differ in physiological activity due to impurities in other optical isomers, and all added components are active ingredients.
  • acetylglycine (a; Ac-Gly-OH; 3. 77 g, 32. 2 mmol) and triethylamine (triethylamine; 6.7 ml; 48.1 mol) were dissolved in 160 ml of tetrahydrofuran ( In THF), after cooling to -10 ° C, isobutyl chloroformate (i sobutylchloroformate; 5. 02 g, 38.6 mmol). The mixed solution was stirred at -1 (TC) for 1 hour. Further, ⁇ -alanine benzyl ester p-methylate (e; ⁇ - ⁇ -Ala-OBzl. PTSA; 11.26 g, 32.
  • Acetylglycine (a; Ac-Gly-OH; 2.52 g, 21.6 mmol) and triethylamine (triethylamine; 5.0 ml; 36.1 mmol) were dissolved in 100 mL of tetrahydrofuran (THF), cooled After -10 ° C, isobutylchloroformate (3.2 g, 23.8 mmol) was added. The mixed solution was stirred at -10 ° C for 1 hour. Further, benzyl p-Y-butylamine was added to toluene ⁇ "Acetate (e; H- Y Abu-OBzI.
  • PTSA 7.6 g, 20.8 mmol
  • triethylamine triethylamine
  • THF tetrahydrofuran
  • the obtained compound (hereinafter referred to simply as the compound (III)) was analyzed by a hydrogen-nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometer, and the obtained spectrum was obtained (1.58-1.64, in, 2H; 1.85, s, 3H; 2.19-2.22, t, 2H).
  • Acetylglycine (a; Ac-Gly-OH; 4.10 g, 35.0 mmol), benzyl phenyl ester p-toluenesulfonate; Sar-OBzl.
  • PTSA lL71g, 33.3 mmol, triethylamine (5.58 ml; 40.0 mmol), N-hydroxybenzotriazole (HOBt; 1.35 g, 10.0 mmol) and N,N,-dicyclohexyl Carbonimide (N, N, -dicyclohexyl carbodimide; DCC; 8.25 g, 40.0 mmol) was stirred and stirred in 200 ml of tetrahydrofuran (THF) overnight.
  • THF tetrahydrofuran
  • the mixed solution was filtered to remove dicyclohexylurea (DOT), and THF was removed by vacuum drying.
  • DOT dicyclohexylurea
  • the residue was dissolved in 100 ml of ethyl acetate, washed twice with 100 ml of a 10% aqueous solution of citric acid, washed twice with 100 ml of a 5% aqueous solution of sodium bicarbonate, and washed with 100 ml of brine.
  • the obtained compound (hereinafter referred to as the compound (IV)) was analyzed by a hydrogen-nuclear magnetic resonance spectrometer, and the H-ray R spectrum was obtained, and the peak value was as follows. Shown: (Major: 1.86, s, 3H; 2.99, s, 3H; 3.96, d, 2H; 3.99, s, 2H; 7.94, s, 1H; 12.6-12.9, m, 1H.
  • the cytotoxicity was evaluated by the MTT Assay method. All the compounds tested for whitening efficacy had a LD50 of more than 5000 fflg/kg for 3T3 fibroblasts and B16-F1G cells, and the compounds (11), (III) and (IV) is safe to use as a known and safe to use vitamin C derivative, a compound that is not cytotoxic and harmless to humans.
  • Mouse melanoma metastasis cells (Mus musculus skin melanoma; B16-F10) were injected into a 96-well plate (960-well plate) to make 5000 cells per cell (5000 cells/well). 7 Culture at 37 °C. broth in 5% C0 2 and 10% FBS (Fetal Bovine Serum Dulbecco 'smodif ied Eagle' s medium; FBS DMEM).
  • FBS Fetal Bovine Serum Dulbecco 'smodif ied Eagle' s medium
  • melanin production rate (%) 100%
  • 0 is the absorbance value of the test sample solution measured by spectrophotometry at a wavelength of 405 nm, that is, the OD (optical density) value, that is, the absorbance value when the compound (II), (III) or (IV) is used, and 0D B represents the wavelength.
  • the absorbance of the blank control group at 405 nm, 0D N represents the absorbance of the negative control group at a wavelength of 405 nm. Lmg/ml ⁇ The control group (negative control; negative control group) containing 0.
  • test sample solution first store 5wt% of compound (II), (III) or (IV) in phenol red free cultivating solution (phenol red free surface EM), ready to contain 0 Lmg/ml tyrosine (tyros ine) and ⁇ melanotropin 5wt% FBS medium (5wt% FBS DMEM), filtered with a 0.22 ⁇ m filter (because 0. lmg / ml tyrosine will cause The culture solution is supersaturated, so centrifugal filtration is required, and a test sample is prepared in the culture solution to obtain a test sample solution.
  • test sample solution or reference sample (blank control group and background control group) to each well.
  • 100 L of 1N sodium hydroxide (NaOH) After shaking for 10 minutes, the absorbance (0D value) at a wavelength of 405 nm was measured.
  • the positive control group was Kojic acid (concentration: 500 ppm) and analyzed by statistical method (Student's t-test): according to the P value of less than 0.05.
  • the test results are shown in Table 1.
  • ascorbic acid glucoside represents ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (or AA2G)
  • ethyl ascorbic acid is ethyl ascorbic acid
  • ascorbic acid 2-alkali magnesium is represented ascorbic acid 2—phosphate magnesium
  • the samples to be tested (compounds ( ⁇ ), (III) and (IV)) and the reference sample were respectively dissolved in water and a buffer having an H value of 6, to become a solution containing 0.5 wt% of the sample.
  • a buffer solution having a pH of 6 used a mixed solution of 3.8 liters of 0.1 M citric acid and 16.2 liters of citrate.
  • a 25 mg sample was dissolved therein to prepare a solution containing 0.5 wt% of the sample.
  • the first embodiment of the formulation is as follows.
  • PVM/MA Polyethylene decyl ether / maleic acid if
  • Hyaluronic acid ⁇ Sodium Hyaluronate
  • Glycerin Glycerin
  • Methylisoxyl ketone Methyl isothiazol inone
  • Polysorbate 20 can be mixed in a conventional manner. For example, the components in A are uniformly mixed, and then the components in B are separately added. After stirring, the premixed C is added. The ingredients in the mixture are added to the mixture of A and B, and stirred well.
  • Formulation Example 2 is an example of the following whitening 4 Qinghualu. Whitening Essence
  • Chrysanthemum extract Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract can be mixed by using conventional methods. For example, the components in A are uniformly mixed, and then the components in B are added separately. After stirring, it will already be The components in the mixture (prepared in D) are added to the mixture of A and B, and stirred uniformly.
  • Formulation Example 3 is an example of the following 5 skin rejuvenation lotions.
  • Glyceryl stearate Glyceryl Stearate
  • PEG-75 stearate PEG- 75 Stearate
  • Stearyl ether - 20 Steareth-20
  • Macadamia oil Macadamia Integr ifol ia Nut Oi l mixing method, you can use the existing methods, such as heating the components in A and B to 8 (TC, stirring, and then B composition A mixture of the components was added to a mixture of the components of A, stirred for 5 minutes, then cooled, neutralized by adding sodium hydroxide, and the temperature was lowered to 45 ° C, and the components in C were added one by one, and the mixture was uniformly stirred.
  • the glycine derivative according to the present invention can be used as an active ingredient for inhibiting melanin production, and can be incorporated into various skin care products and cosmetics, and can be, for example, creams, lotions, gels, lotions, and the like.
  • active ingredients of whitening Various types, as active ingredients of whitening, their efficacy experiments have confirmed the function of inhibiting melanin production, and because of its structure does not have aromatic groups, aromatic phenols and their derivative groups, thiols and their derivative groups, It is a derivative structure with oxidation stability. It is not easy to oxidize and deteriorate during the application and storage of whitening formula. It has color and odor stability, and has no obvious cytotoxicity. It is harmless to human body. Further, the glycine derivative of the present invention does not have optical activity (no
  • the glycine derivative of the present invention does not cause physiological activity differences due to impurities of other optical isomers, and all added components are active ingredients.
  • the glycine derivatives of the present invention have good stability, and are especially applied to a water-based cosmetic care product formulation having a transparent appearance.

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Description

抑制黑色素生成的甘胺酸衍生物及其美白组合物 技术领域
本发明是关于一种甘胺酸衍生物, 特别是关于一种具有抑制黑色素生 成的甘胺酸 4汙生物及使用其的美白组成物。 背景技术
一 ^&黑色素( melanin )的生成机制 ,,被认为与酪胺酸酶( tyros inase ) 有关。 表皮细胞中, 自然存在有酪胺酸( tyros ine ), 黑色素的前身, 经由 胺酸→多巴( Dopa )→多巴醌( Dopaquinone ) "^多巴色素 ( Dopachrome ) —黑色素, 在黑色素生成反应过程, 酪胺酸酶为重要的酵素, 藉由其羟化 酶的活性使酪胺酸转化为多巴, 藉由氧化酶的活性使多巴转化为多巴醌。 因此只要是可有效地作用于表皮黑色素细胞, 抑制黑色素的生成 ( mel anogenes i s ), 或抑制黑色素的生物合成的任一过程的物质, 即可作 为皮肤美白的有效成分。 黑色素生成启动的第一个步骤是由酪胺酸酶催化 酪胺酸氧化形成多巴醌, 只要抑制酪胺酸酶的活性即可抑制整个黑色素生 成的一连串的反应, 酪胺酸酶抑制剂成为皮肤美白的有效成分之一。
然而, 各种皮肤美白的有效成分, 其抑制黑色素生成的机制, 并不尽 相同也没有完全清楚。 一般熟知的美白主成分, 如曲酸(Koj ic ac id )、 维 生素 C衍生物 ( ascorbic acid derivat ives )和熊果苷 ( arbut in )等皆 为巳知具有抑制酪胺酸酶活性的功能的化合物。
曲酸在溶液中不稳定, 导致配方制造的程序复杂(参考美国专利 US 6, 306, 376 的叙述), 且应用于皮肤保养品时会造成皮肤的过敏(参考 Contact Dermat i t i s, Jan 95, Vol. 42 (1) , Page 9 ~ 13) , 以上皆限制其 美白配方的 用性。
维生素 C非常不稳定, 极易氧化变质, 因此在美白配方中通常使用维 生素 C的衍生物以提升配方的安定性。 但是, 在其配方中仍需要添加例如 亚石克酸氢钠( sod iuin hydrogen sulf i te ) 的安定剂或是调配緩冲溶液以减 轻配方氧化变色的程度。 (参考美国专利第 6, 801, 050号的实施例)然而, 使用硫化物作为安定剂容易造成产品有刺鼻气味的问题(参考 US 6, 020, 367 的叙述), 因此该方法并未同时解决美白配方对于颜色和气味的要求和问 题。
熊果苷虽具有美白效果, 但因其结构为对苯二酚的醣化衍生物 (Glycosylated hydroquinone) ,仍容易在配方中因芳香酚基团氧化而变色, 而造成配方制造上的困难。 此外, 熊果苷在水中溶解度低而导致应用在配 方中浓度 H 实际上产生的美白效果低(参考曰本专利特开第 2009-67691 号公报), 日本专利特开第 2009-67691 号公报提案使用熊果苷奈米分散粒 子, 但是在制造上较为困难, 且产品不方使使用, 而且还是有不易被皮肤 吸收的问题。
在美国专利第 6365135 号中, 揭露使用胺基酚酰胺 ( amino phenol amide )衍生物作为美白剂, 另外在日本专利特开平 07-061905 及特开平 07-233022中, 也揭露胺基酚酰胺衍生物作为美白成分, 文献中推断因酪胺 酸酶是一种含铜的多酚氧化酶(polyphenol oxidase) , 这些具有瞼结构的 化合物可能为抑制酪胺酸酶活性的有效成分, 可能与酪胺酸酶的结构相似 性有关。 不过, 其结构为具有易氧化的芳香酚基团及其衍生物。
在曰本公开专利特开平第 5-032533号公^ 、 特开平第 6-345797号公 报、 特开平第 5- 170637号公报等, 揭露各种具有美白效果的二胜肽。 文献 中 , 所构成的胺基酸侧链皆具有硫醇基及其衍生物或是芳香基团或芳香酚 基团及其衍生物, 所揭露的二胜肤对于黑色素的抑制机制并不清楚, 例如 在曰本公开专利特开平第 5- 170637号公报的表 1中所揭露的二胜肽对酪胺 酸酶抑制率的差异, 可以从 3 % ~ 56 % , 因此并非只要是二胜肽类化合物, 即可成为良好的美白有效成分。
然而, 在实务上制造和应用美白保养品配方时, 除了考虑其美白主成 分的效用外, 同时需考虑其在配方中具有稳定性, 避免和配方中的溶剂和 其他添加物产生交互作用而导致配方变质, 产生颜色和味道的问题。 有鉴 上述问题, 仍有必要开发新的美白有效成分, 适合用于各种美白保养品, 例如乳霜、 乳液、 凝胶、 化妆水等, 而且在配方中具有稳定性, 以符合产 业的需求。 发明内容
鉴于上述的发明背景, 为了符合产业上的要求, 本发明的目的的一在 于提供一种甘胺酸^ ^生物, 其具有抑制黑色素生成的功能, 可作为皮肤美 白的有效成分, 可应用于各种美白组成物。
而且, 本发明的目的之一在于提供一种甘胺酸衍生物, 其结构不具有 芳香基团、 芳香酚及其 生物基团、 υ醇及其 生物基团, 并且不具有旋 光性, 为一具备氧化安定性和单一生理活性的衍生物结构。 且在配方中具 有良好的顏色安定性。
根据本发明的一实施例, 揭露一种甘胺酸衍生物, 其具有以下一般式
( I
Figure imgf000003_0001
其中 R1表示 C1 C4的烷基, R2表示氢原子或曱基, 以及 n表示 1 ~ 6 的一整数。
在一实施例中, 上述甘胺酸衍生物为 3 ( 2-乙酰胺基-乙酰胺基)-丙酸 ( 3 (2-acetylamino-acetylamino) -propionic acid 或
Acetyl- Glycine- β- Alanine ), 具有以下所示的化学式 ( I I ) 的结构:
Figure imgf000004_0001
。 (II)
在一实施例中, 上述甘胺酸衍生物为 4- (2-乙酰胺基-乙酰胺基)丁酸 ( 4- (2-Acetylamino-acetylamino) -butyric acid ) 或 Acetyl-Glycine- γ-aminobutyric acid), 具有以下所示的化学式 (III) 的结构:
Figure imgf000004_0002
。 (III)
在一实施例中, 上述甘胺酸衍生物为 [ (2-乙酰胺基-乙酰基) -曱基- 胺基〗乙酸 ( [ (2-Acetylamino-acetyl) -methyl -ami no] -acetic acid ) 或 Acetyl- Glycine- Sarcosine), 具有以下所示的化学式(IV) 的结构:
Figure imgf000004_0003
。 (IV)
在一实施例中, 添加有 0.05 ~ 10wt % (重量比)甘胺酸衍生物的水溶 液及其緩冲溶液,在 420 ~ 500nm的波长范围内的透光率为 97%以上。上述 缓冲溶液为柠檬酸及其盐类所成。 上述添加有 0.05~10wt% (重量比)甘 胺酸衍生物的水溶液及其緩冲溶液,在特定波长 440nm时, 其透光率为 98% 以上。
根据本发明的另一实施例, 揭露一种美白组成物, 其是由添加 0.05wt%~10wt% (重量比) 的上述甘胺酸 f;†生物所成, 具有抑制黑色素生 成的功能。 更理想为上述美白组成物是由添加 0.5wt% - 2wt% (重量比) 的 上述甘胺酸衍生物所成。
根据本发明的甘胺酸衍生物 , 虽然不清楚其抑制黑色素生成的机制, 但实脸证实具有抑制黑色素生成的功能。 而且, 因其结构不具有芳香基团、 芳香酚及其 †生物基团、 硫醇及其"汙生物基团, 为一具备氧化安定性的 † 生物结构, 在美白配方制造应用和储存时不易氧化变质,. 具有颜色稳定性, 且无明显细胞毒性, 对于人体无害, 并方便于美白组成物的制造、 应用和 储存,可提升配方的安定性。 另外本发明的甘胺酸衍生物不具有旋光性(no enantiomer ), 此即表示本发明的甘胺酸衍生物不会因有其他光学异构物的 不纯物而造成生理活性有所差异, 所有添加的成分皆为有效成分。 根据本 发明的甘胺酸衍生物特别适合应用于外观透明的水性化妆保养品配方。 附图的筒要说明
无 实现发明的最佳方式
有关本发明的前述及其他技术内容、 特点与功效, 在以下配合参考图 式的一较佳实施例的详细说明中, 将可清楚的呈现。 为了能彻底地了解本 发明, 将在下列的描述中提出详尽的步骤及其组成。 显然地, 本发明的施 行并未限定于本技艺者所熟习的特殊细节。 另一方面, 众所周知的组成或 步骤并未描述于细节中, 以避免造成本发明不必要的限制。 本发明的较佳 实施例会详细描述如下, 然而除了这些详细描述之外, 本发明还可以广泛 地施行在其他的实施例中, 且本发明的范围不受限定, 其以之后的专利范 围为准。
本发明是关于作为美白有效成分的化合物。 根据本发明人等的研究, 发现二胜肽的美白效果差异甚大, 虽然已有文献揭露各种具有美白效果的 二胜肽(例如日本公开专利特开平第 5- 032533号公 ^艮、特开平第 6-345797 号公报、 特开平第 5-170637号公报等), 但是因二胜肽是由 1个胺基酸结 合而成, 含有一个胜肽键, 本发明人等发现二胜肽的抑制羰基化、 醣化、 氧化等的功能, 随其结构而异, 特别是在抑制酪胺酸酶的活性或抑制多酚 氧化酶的活性上, 无法仅是由胜肽键决定, 也就是实际上与二胜肽的结构, 即构成二胜肽的 2 个胺基酸的特性有关, 无法单纯地判断二胜肽即具有抑 制黑色素生成的功能。 例如 肽(carnos ine ) 已知可作为抗氧化剂, 但却 不具抑制黑色素生成的^效。
此夕卜, 例:^非专利文献格瑞利等人 ( Inhibi t ion of polyphenol oxidases act ivi ty by var ious dipept ides, A. Girel l i, E. Mattei, A. Mess ina, and A. Tarola, J. of Agricul tural and Food Chemis try, 2004, 52. 2741- 2745 )揭露各种二胜肽对于多纷氧化酶的活性的抑制作用, 其结 果发现并非所有的二胜肽对多酚氧化酶的活性皆具有抑制作用。 再者, 例 如在曰本公开专利特开平第 5- 170637号公■¾, 由其表 1得知揭露的二胜肽 对酪胺酸醇抑制率的差异, 可以从 3 % ~ 56 % , 因此二胜肽的抑制酪胺酸酶 的特性, 并非由胜肽键所决定, 实际上取决于二胜肽化合物的结构。
根据本发明的一实施例, 揭露一种甘胺酸衍生物, 其具有以下一般式 ( I
Figure imgf000005_0001
其中 R1表示 CI ~ C4的烷基, R2表示氢原子或甲基, 以及 n表示 1 ~ 6 的一整数。
在一实施例中, 上述甘胺酸衍生物为 3 ( 2 乙酰胺基-乙酰胺基)-丙酸 ( 3 (2-acety lamino-acetylamino) -propionic acid ) 或 Acetyl- Glycine- β- Alanine ), 具有以下所示的化学式(II ) 的结构:
Figure imgf000006_0001
在一实施例中, 上述甘胺酸衍生物为 4- ( 2-乙酰胺基-乙酰胺基)丁酸 ( 4- (2-Acetylamino-acetylamino) -butyric acid. ) 或 Acetyl-Glycine- Y-aminobutyr ic acid ), 具有以下所示的化学式 ( III ) 的结构:
Figure imgf000006_0002
在一实施例中, 上述甘胺酸衍生物为 [ ( 2-乙酰胺基-乙酰基) -甲基- 胺基]乙酸 ( [ (2- Acetylamino— acetyl) - methyl- amino] -acet ic acid )或 Acetyl- Glycine- Sarcos ine ), 具有以下所示的化学式(IV ) 的结构:
Figure imgf000006_0003
在一实施例中, 添加有 0. 05 ~ 10wt % (重量比)本发明的甘胺酸衍生 物的水溶液及其緩冲溶液,在 420 500mn的波长范围的透光率为 97 %以上。
上述该添加有 0. 05 ~ 10wt % (重量比)甘胺酸衍生物的水溶液及其緩 冲溶液, 于特定波长为 440nm时, 其透光率为 98%以上。
根据本发明的另一实施例, 揭露一种美白组成物, 其是由添加 0. 05wt% ~ 10wt% (重量比) 的才艮据本发明的甘胺酸衍生物所成, 具有抑制 黑色素生成的功能。 上述美白组成物由添加 0. lwt% - 2wt% (重量比) 的根 据本发明的甘胺酸衍生物所成更理想。
根据本发明的甘胺酸衍生物, 经由细胞实 H 得知具有抑制黑色素生 成的效果。 在应用于皮肤时, 本发明的甘胺酸衍生物具有低分子量的特性, 容易被肌肤吸收, 另外本发明的甘胺酸衍生物不具有旋光性 ( no enant iomer ), 此即表示本发明的甘胺酸 f生物不会因有其他光学异构物的 不纯物而造成生理活性有所差异, 所有添加的成分皆为有效成分。
以下藉由范例, 更详细具体地说明本发明。 首先, 说明制备甘胺酸衍 生物的方法。
范例 一 、 制备 3 ( 2- 乙 酰胺基 - 乙 酰胺基 ) - 丙 酸 ( 3 (2-acetylamino-acetylamino) -propionic acid 或
Acetyl-Glycine- -Alanine )
将乙酰甘胺酸(a; Ac-Gly-OH; 3. 77g , 32. 2 毫摩尔) 及三乙基胺 ( triethylamine; 6. 7毫升; 48. 1亳摩尔)溶解于 160毫升的四氢呋喃( THF ) 中, 冷却至 -10°C后, 添加氯甲酸异丁酯( i sobutylchloroformate; 5. 02g、 38.6毫摩尔)。 将混合溶液在 - 1(TC下搅拌 1小时。 另外将 β-丙胺酸苯甲酯 对甲^ ^酸盐 (e; Η-β-Ala-OBzl.PTSA; 11.26g、 32. G毫摩尔)及三乙基 胺(triethylamine; 6.7毫升; 48.1毫摩尔)溶解于 160毫升的四氢呋喃 (THF) 中后, 将其加入上述混合酸酐溶液中。 将反应混合物在室温下搅拌 过夜。 将其中的盐过滤, 以真空干燥除去 THF。 将残留物以管柱色层分析法 纯化, 使用乙酸乙酯及庚烷作为洗提液(eluent), 得到约 5.95g的中间物 f ( Ac-Gly-beta-Ala-OBzl )。
将中间物 溶解于 200毫升的四氢呋喃中后, 添加钯碳催化剂 (10wt %Pd/C), 将混合物在氢气环境中搅拌过夜。 然后, 藉由过滤除去催化剂, 将滤液以真空蒸发, 得到约 2.49g白色粉末 g (产率 41.0 % , 纯度 >95 % 所得的化合物 (以下筒称为化合物 (II )) 以氢-核磁共振仪分析, 结果得 到 H1 -丽 R光谱 (1.84, s, 3H; 2.35-2.38, t, 2H; 3.27-3.31, m, 2H; 3.61, d, 2H; 7.85-7.87, t, 1H; 8.03-8.05, t, 1H; 12.22, s, 1H), 确认为 3 ( 2- 乙 酰 胺 基 - 乙 酰 胺 基 ) - 丙 酸 ( 3 (2-acetyl amino-acetyl amino) -propionic acid ),具有上述化学式( II ) 所示的结构。
范例 二 、 制备 4- ( 2- 乙 酰胺基 - 乙 酰胺基 ) 丁 酸 ( 4- (2-Acetylamino-acetylamino) -butyric acid ) 或 Acetyl-Glycine-y-aminobutyric acid )
将乙酰甘胺酸 (a; Ac-Gly-OH; 2.52g、 21.6 毫摩尔)及三乙基胺 ( triethylamine; 5.0毫升; 36.1亳摩尔)溶解于 100毫^"的四氢呋喃( THF ) 中, 冷却至 - 10°C后, 添加氯甲酸异丁酯( isobutylchloroformate; 3.2g、 23.8毫摩尔)。将混合溶液在 - 10°C下搅拌 1小时。 另外将 Y-丁胺酸苯甲酯 对甲苯^ "酸盐 (e; H-YAbu-OBzI.PTSA; 7.6g、 20.8毫摩尔)及三乙基胺 ( triethylamine; 5.0毫升; 36.1毫摩尔)溶解于 90毫升的四氢呋喃( THF ) 中后, 在- 5 °C下将其加入上述混合酸酐溶液中。 将反应混合物于室温下搅 拌过夜。 将其中的盐过濾, 以真空干燥除去 THF。 将残留物以管柱色层分析 法純化, 使用乙酸乙酯及庚綻作为洗提液(eluent), 得到约 2.6g 的中间 物 i ( Ac-Gly-GABA-OBzl )。
将纯化过的 2.6g中间物 / ( Ac- Gly- GABA- OBzl )溶解于 100亳升的四 氢呋喃中后, 添加钯碳催化剂 (5wt%Pd/C、 0.26g), 将混合物在氢气环境 中搅抨过夜。 然后, '藉由过滤除去催化剂, 将滤液以真空蒸发, 得到白色 粉末 产率 43.3% ,纯度〉 95% )。所得的化合物(以下简称为化合物( III )) 以氢-核磁共振仪分析 , 结果得到1^-丽] 光谱(1.58-1.64, in, 2H; 1.85, s, 3H; 2.19-2.22, t, 2H; 3.04-3.08, , 2H; 3.61-3.62, d, 2H; 7.81-7.83, t, 1H; 8.02-8.04, t, 1H; 12.04, s, 1H), 确认为 4— ( 2 -乙酰胺基一乙酰 胺基 ) 丁酸 ( 4- (2-Acetylamino-acetylamino) -butyric acid ) 或 Acetyl-Glycine-y-aminobutyric acid), 具有上述化学式 ( III ) 所示的 结构。
范例三、 制备 [ ( 2-乙酰胺 -乙酰基) -甲基-胺基] 乙酸 ( [ (2-Acetylamino-acetyl)-methyl-amino] -acetic acid ) 或 Acetyl-Glycine-Sarcos ine )
将乙酰甘胺酸(a ; Ac-Gly-OH; 4.10g、 35.0毫摩尔)、 丙胺酸苯甲酯 对甲苯磺酸盐 ( h, sarcosine benzyl ester p-toluenesulfonate; Sar-OBzl.PTSA; lL71g、 33.3毫摩尔)、 三乙基胺( triethylamine; 5.58 毫升; 40.0毫摩尔)、 N-羟基苯并三唑(N- hydroxybenzotriazole; HOBt; 1.35g、 10.0 毫摩尔)及 N,N, -二环己基碳酰亚胺(N,N, -dicyclohexyl carbodimide; DCC; 8.25g、 40.0毫摩尔)在 200毫升的四氢呋喃 ( THF ) 中混合搅拌过夜。 将混合溶液过滤除去二环己基脲 (dicyclohexylurea; DOT), 以真空干燥除去 THF。 将残留物溶解于 100 亳升的乙酸乙酯, 利用 100毫升的 10%柠檬酸的水溶液清洗 2次, 100毫升的 5%碳酸氢钠的水溶 液清洗 2次, 100毫升的盐水(brine)清洗 2次后, 以硫酸镁干燥, 在真 空中蒸发, 得到约 9g的淡黄色油状中间物 c ( c; Ac-Gly-Sar-OBzl )„ 将该油状中间物 c溶解于 200毫升的四氢呋喃中后, 添加铯碳催化剂 (10wt%Pd/C), 将混合物在氢气环境中搅拌过夜。 然后, 添加甲醇溶解产 物, 藉由过滤除去催化剂, 再在真空中除去溶剂。 将浓缩残留物以四氢呋 喃进行再结晶, 得到约 4.49g白色粉末 (产率 .71.6%, 纯度〉 95% )。 所 得的化合物 (以下简称为化合物 (IV)) 以氢-核磁共振仪分析, 结果得到 H -丽 R光谱, 峰值如下所示: (Major: 1.86, s, 3H; 2.99, s, 3H; 3.96, d, 2H; 3.99, s, 2H; 7.94, s, 1H; 12.6-12.9, m, 1H. Minor: 1.85, s, 3H; 2.81, s, 3H; 3.82, d, 2H; 4.10, s, 2H; 7.93, s, 1H; 12.6-12.9, m, 1H ) , 确认为 [ ( 2-乙酰胺基-乙酰基 ) -甲基-胺基] 乙酸 ( [ (2-Acetylamino-acetyl)-methyl-amino] -acetic acid ) 或 Acetyl- Glycine- Sarcosine), 具有上述化学式( IV )所示的结构, 所得化 合物为旋转异构物 ( rotational isomers ) 的混合物。
以下进行化合物(Π)、 (III)或 (IV) 的各种特性测试。
细胞美白功效测试 (Melaninogenesis inhibition test ):
细胞美白功效测试以曲酸(〖o j ic acid )作为阳性控制组 , 并对化合 物( II )、 ( III )及( IV)和维生素 C衍生物在无细胞毒性的浓度下进行美 白功效评估, 测试其对黑色素生成的抑制能力。
细胞毒性采用 MTT Assay方式进行评估, 所有进行美白功效测试的化 合物其对于 3T3 纤维母细胞和 B16- F1G 细胞其半致死剂量(LD50)均大于 5000fflg/kg, 其化合物 (11)、 (III )及(IV) 的使用安全性等同于已知使 用安全无虞的维生素 C衍生物, 属于无明显细胞毒性, 对人体无害的化合 物
将小鼠黑色素瘤转移细胞 (Mus musculus skin melanoma; B16-F10) 注入于 96 孔盘 ( 96- well plate ) 中, 使每孔中含有 5000 个细胞 ( 5000cells/well )7 在 37 °C下培养于 5 % C02及 10%胎牛血清的培养液 ( Fetal Bovine Serum Dulbecco' smodif ied Eagle' s medium; FBS DMEM)。
黑色素生成率的定义如下: 黑色素生成率 (%) 100%
Figure imgf000009_0001
其中 0 表示利用分光光度计量测波长 405mn下测试样品溶液的吸光 值, 即 OD (optical density)值, 亦即使用化合物( II )、 ( III )或 ( IV ) 时的吸光值, 0DB表示波长 405nm下空白控制组( blank control )的吸光值, 0DN表示波长 405nm下负控制组的吸光值。 背景控制组 ( negative control; 负控制组) 包含 0. lmg/ml酪胺酸( tyrosine)及 ΙμΜ促黑激素 (a-MSH a- melanocyte stimulating hormone ), 空白控制组包含 0. lmg/ml酸胺酸 ( tyrosine )但不含 a- MSH,测试样品溶液先将 5wt %的化合物( II ), ( III ) 或( IV )贮存于无酚红培养液( phenol red free麵 EM )中,准备含有 0. lmg/ml 酪胺酸( tyros ine )及 ΙμΜ促黑激素的 5wt % FBS培养液( 5wt % FBS DMEM ), 以 0.22μπι的过滤器进行过滤后 (因为 0. lmg/ml酪胺酸会造成培养液过饱 和,所以需要离心过滤),在该培养液中制备测试样品,得到测试样品溶液。
待细胞完全汇聚(confluence)后, 在每一孔中分别加入 ΙΟΟμί的测 试样品溶液或参考样品 (空白控制组及背景控制组), 处理 3 天后, 添加 lOO L的 1N氢氧化钠 (NaOH), 震荡 10分钟后, 量测其波长 405nm下的吸 光值 ( 0D值)。
其中阳性控制組为曲酸(Kojic acid), (浓度 500ppm), 以统计学方法 (Student' s t- test)分析 :据, 其 P值小于 0.05。 测试结果表示于表一。
表一
样品浓度 0.2% 0.4%
黑色素生成率% 土 标准差
抗坏血酸葡萄糖苷 86.8 ± 3.4 76.2 ± 10. 5 乙基抗坏血酸 86.4 土 2.6 78.9 土 6· 3
抗坏血酸 -2-碑酸镁 88.4 ± 11. 4 肌肽 129 土 1.7 141 土 10. 5
化合物 (II) 64.7 士 12.8 11.0 土 1. 9
化合物 (III) 70.4 土 10.0 14.2 士 3. 0
化合物 ( IV ) 60.8 ± 22· 3 15.0 土 5. 6
曲酸 (阳性控制组 500ppm): 黑色素生成率% = 33%
表一中,抗坏血酸葡萄糖苷表示 ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (或 AA2G ), 乙基抗坏血酸表示 ethyl ascorbic acid,抗坏血酸- 2-石舞酸镁表示 ascorbic acid 2— phosphate magnesium
颜色安定性测试(Color stability test)
将待测样品 (化合物 (Π)、 (III)及(IV))及参考样品分别溶解于 水和 H值为 6的缓冲液中, 成为含有 0.5wt %样品的溶液。 pH值为 6的緩 冲液使用 3.8亳升的 0.1M柠檬酸及 16.2亳升的柠檬酸盐的混合溶液。 再 将 25毫克的样品溶解于其中, 配制含有 0.5wt%样品的溶液。 然后放置于 45°C烘箱中进行颜色安定性加速试验, 1 天及 28天后以分光光度计量测波 长 440nm 的光透过率, 测试 2δ 天后并且以高效液相色层分析仪 (HPLC/DAD (Diode array detection) )分析化合物 (11)、 (III)及(IV) 在 400 ~ 500nm波长范围的吸收强度, 其结果显示无任何吸收信号出现。 表 二表示样品溶解于水的结果, 表三表示样品溶解于 pH值为 6的緩冲液的结 果。
时间 14天 28天
测试溶液 水溶液
测试样品 穿透度% (440腿)
化合物 (II) 98.9 99.8
化合物(III) 99.6 99.5
化合物 ( IV ) 99.7 100
曲酸 94.9 81
α-熊果苷 96.7 95.4
AA2G 97.8 96.9
抗坏血酸 37.8 20.8
时间 14天 28天
测试溶液(PH =6) 柠檬酸缓冲溶液
测试^ »合物 穿透度 °/。 (440nm)
化合物 (II) 99.4 99.3
化合物 (III) 100 99.9
化合物(IV) . 100 100
曲酸 ( Kojic acid) 34.8 4.0
乙基抗坏血酸 98.6 97.5
抗坏血酸- 2-碑酸镁 85.6 80.9
抗坏血酸 0.7 2.1 以下, 利用配方实施例说明根据本发明的化合物的应用, 但本发明不 限于该些配方实施例。
配方实施例一为以下成为 妆米 ^例。 组別名称 %
A 甘油聚甲基丙烯酸酯及丙二 -醇 1. 20
A 甘油聚甲基丙烯酸酯、 丙二 .醇及 PVM/MA共聚合物 11. 40
A PVM/MA癸二烯交联聚合物 0. 25
A 水 To 100. 00
B 葡聚醣 3. 90
B 玻尿酸钠 7. 70
B 化合物(I I I ) 0. 20
B 甘油 3. 80
B 水解玛咖才艮 3. 80
B 甲基异噻唑啉酮 0. 10
C 辛基酚聚醚- 11 及聚山梨醇酯 20 0. 30
C 香料 0. 10 甘油聚甲基丙烯酸酯: Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
ι¾二醇: Propylene Glycol
PVM/MA: 聚乙烯曱基醚 /马来酸 if
發二蜱交联聚合物: Decadiene Cros spolymer
葡聚醣: Sclerot ium Gum
玻尿酸 }: Sodium Hyaluronate
甘油: Glycerin
水解玛咖根: Hydrolyzed Lepidium Meyeni i Root
甲基异塞唾淋酮: Methyl isothiazol inone
辛基酚聚醚 -11 : Octoxynol-11
聚山梨醇酯 20: Polysorbate 20 混合的方式, 可以使用现有习知的方法, 例如先将 A 中的组成成分混 合均匀, 再分别加入 B中的组成成分, 搅拌后, 将已经预先混合的 C中的 组成成分加入 A与 B的混合物中, 搅拌均匀。
配方实施例二为以下成为美白 4青华露的范例。 美白精华露
组别名称 比例 (% )
A 水 To 100.00
A 羟乙基纤维素 30.00
A PVM/MA癸二烯交联聚合物 13.00
B 化合物 (II) 1.00
B 丙二醇、 水及母菊花萃取物 2.00
B 甲基异噻唾啉酮 0.10
C 水 3.00
C 葡聚醣 2.00
D 辛基酚聚醚- 11 及聚山梨醇酯 20 0.15
D 香料 /香水 0.10 羟乙基纤维素: Hydroxyethylcellulose
母菊花萃取物: Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract 混合的方式, 可以使用现有习知的方法, 例如先将 A 中的组成成分混 合均匀, 再分别加入 B中的组成成分, 搅拌后, 将已经分别预先混合的(、 D中的组成成分加入 A与 B的混合物中, 搅拌均匀。
配方实施例三为以下成为 5几肤青春乳液 ( skin rejuvenation lotion) 的范例。
Λ ^青春 液 ( skin rejuvenat ion lot ion ) 组 名称 比例 别 ( % )
A 鲸蜡醇 /甘油硬脂酸酯 / PEG- 75硬脂酸酯 /鯨蜡 4. 00 醇聚醚 20/硬脂醇聚醚- 20
A '肉豆蔻醇肉豆蔻酸酯 2. 00
A 癸二酸二辛酯 4. 00
A 异壬酸乙基己酯 3. 00
A 澳洲坚果油 5. 00
B 水
B Carbomer (2%) 15. 0
0
氢氧化钠 (10%) 0. 80
C 化合物 ( I I I ) 5. 00
C 玻尿酸钠 (1%) 2. 00
C 曱基异噻唑啉酮 0. 10
C 香料 0. 05 鲸蜡醇: Cetyl Alcohol
甘油硬脂酸酯: Glyceryl Stearate
PEG- 75硬脂酸酯: PEG- 75 Stearate
鲸蜡醇聚醚 20: Ceteth-20
硬脂醇聚醚- 20: Steareth-20
1¾ J-¾S I¾ : Myr istyl Myr is tate 〇 o 姿二酸二辛酯: Dioctyl Sebacate
异壬酸乙基己酉旨: Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
澳洲坚果油: Macadamia Integr ifol ia Nut Oi l 混合的方式, 可以使用现有习知的方法, 例如先将 A及 B中的组成成 分分別加热至 8(TC , 搅拌均勾, 再将 B的组成成分的混合物加入 A的组成 成分的混合物, 搅拌 5分钟后降温, 加入氢氧化钠进行中和, 温度降至 45 °C后, 逐一加入 C中的组成成分, 搅拌均匀。
综上所述, 根据本发明的甘胺酸衍生物, 可作为抑制黑色素生成的有 效成分, 可以配合于各种皮肤保养品、 化妆品中, 可以为例如乳霜、 乳液、 凝胶、 化妆水等各种型态, 作为美白的有效成分, 其功效实验证实具有抑 制黑色素生成的功能, 且因其结构不具有芳香基团、 芳香酚及其衍生物基 团、 硫醇及其衍生物基团, 为一具备氧化安定性的衍生物结构, 于美白配 方制造应用和储存时不易氧化变质, 具有颜色和气味的稳定性, 且无明显 细胞毒性,对于人体无害。 此外, 本发明的甘胺酸衍生物不具有旋光性(no
22 enantioraer ), 此即表示本发明的甘胺酸衍生物不会因有其他光学异构物的 不纯物而造成生理活性有所差异, 所有添加的成分皆为有效成分。 而在美 白配方产品的制造储存使用, 本发明的甘胺酸衍生物皆具备良好的安定性, 特别是应用于外观透明的水性化妆保养品配方。
以上所述, 仅是本发明的较佳实施例而已, 并非对本发明作任何形式 上的限制, 虽然本发明巳以较佳实施例揭露如上, 然而并非用以限定本发
Figure imgf000014_0001
凡是未脱离本发明技术方案的内容, 依据本发明的技术实质对以上实施例 所作的任何筒单修改、 等同变化与修饰, 均仍属于本发明技术方案的范围 内。

Claims

权 利 要 求
1. 一种具有抑制黑色素生成的甘胺酸衍生物, 其特征在于其具有以下 -般式(I)所示的结构:
Figure imgf000015_0001
其中 R1表示 CI ~ C4的烷基., R2表示氢原子或甲基, 以及 n表示 1 ~ 6 的一整数。
2. 根据权利要求 1所述的甘胺酸衍生物, 其特征在于其中所述的甘胺 酸 生 物 为 3 ( 2- 乙 酰 胺 基 - 乙 酰 胺 基 ) - 丙 酸 ( 3 (2-acetylamino-acetylamino) -propionic acid), 具有以下所示的化 学式(II) 的结构:
Figure imgf000015_0002
。 (II)
3. 根据权利要求 1所述的甘胺酸衍生物, 其特征在于其中所述的甘胺 酸 ^" 生 物 为 4- ( 2- 乙 酰 胺 基 - 乙 酰 胺 基 ) ,丁 酸 ( 4- (2-Acetylamino-acetylaraino) -butyric acid ), 具有以下所示的化学 式 (III) 的结构:
Figure imgf000015_0003
。 (III)
4. 根据权利要求 1所述的甘胺酸衍生物, 其特征在于其中所述的甘胺 酸衍生物为 [ ( 2- 乙酰胺基-乙酰基 ) -甲基-胺基] 乙酸 ( [ (2-Acetylamino-acetyl) -methyl-amino] -acetic acid), 具有以下所 示的化学式(IV) 的结构:
Figure imgf000015_0004
。 (IV)
5. 根据权利要求 1 所述的甘胺酸 生物, 其特征在于其中添加有
0.05 ~10wt% (重量比)甘胺酸衍生物的水溶液及其緩冲溶液, 在 420 500mn的波长范围内的透光率为 97%以上。
6. 根据权利要求 5所述的甘胺酸衍生物, 其特征在于其缓冲溶液为柠 檬酸及其盐类所成。
7. 根据权利要求 5所述的甘胺酸衍生物, 其特征在于其中所述的添加 有 0. 05 ~ 10wt % (重量比)甘胺酸衍生物的水溶液及其緩冲溶液, 在特定 波长为 44 Onm时, 其透光率为 98%以上。
8. 一种美白组成物,其特征在于其是由添加 0. 05wt% ~ 10wt°/。(重量比) 的如权利要求 1至 4中任一权利要求所述的甘胺酸衍生物所成, 具有抑制 黑色素生成的功能。
9. 根据权利要求 8 所迷的美白组成物, 其特征在于其是由添加 0. lwt% ~ 2wt% (重量比) 的如权利要求 1至 4中任一权利要求所述的甘胺 酸衍生物所成, 具有抑制黑色素生成的功能。
PCT/CN2010/001665 2010-10-22 2010-10-22 抑制黑色素生成的甘胺酸衍生物及其美白组合物 WO2012051741A1 (zh)

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US20130195782A1 (en) 2013-08-01
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