WO2010090255A1 - Vêtements avec parties de bonnets - Google Patents

Vêtements avec parties de bonnets Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010090255A1
WO2010090255A1 PCT/JP2010/051607 JP2010051607W WO2010090255A1 WO 2010090255 A1 WO2010090255 A1 WO 2010090255A1 JP 2010051607 W JP2010051607 W JP 2010051607W WO 2010090255 A1 WO2010090255 A1 WO 2010090255A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
edge
power
cup
back cloth
cloth
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2010/051607
Other languages
English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
智晴 今西
愛香 木野
Original Assignee
株式会社ワコール
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 株式会社ワコール filed Critical 株式会社ワコール
Priority to CN2010800067586A priority Critical patent/CN102307489B/zh
Publication of WO2010090255A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010090255A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/12—Component parts
    • A41C3/14—Stiffening or bust-forming inserts
    • A41C3/142—Stiffening inserts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/12—Component parts

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to clothing, particularly clothing having a cup portion.
  • the back cloth In clothing with a cup part such as a brassiere, the back cloth is located from the wearer's heel to the back. It is desired that this back cloth enhances the wearer's feeling of support, particularly at the heel, and prevents a step due to skin swell as much as possible.
  • a highly stretchable tape has been attached to the top and bottom of the back cloth. However, when a highly stretchable tape is attached, the tape bites into the skin and causes a step at the wearer's buttocks above and below the tape.
  • Patent Document 1 while eliminating the tape of the upper and lower edges of a back cloth, making the expansion power in the upper and lower sides small, and making the expansion power in the center part large, the device which makes it difficult to produce a level difference is made. Further, Patent Document 2 discloses a technique for knitting the upper and lower regions of the back cloth so that the expansion and contraction powers are different and preventing the occurrence of deviation from the skin.
  • JP 2002-235209 A Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 7-28921
  • Patent Document 1 the feeling of support at the portion of the back cloth may be poor when worn, and this tendency is particularly great when the back cloth is made narrow.
  • the technology described in Patent Document 2 also has different stretching powers at the top and bottom of the back cloth, but this is for preventing the location where the stretching power is strong from moving with the skin, It does not improve the feeling of support or eliminate the level difference, nor does it solve the problem of Patent Document 1.
  • both the techniques of patent documents 1 and 2 have strong stretch power in the front-rear direction of the back cloth, if the stretch power is sufficiently strong to achieve each purpose, The person has a feeling of wearing that is squeezed all over.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a garment having a cup portion such as a brassiere that is excellent in a compensation function, hardly causes a step, and has a good wearing feeling.
  • a garment having a cup part according to the present invention is a garment comprising at least a cup part, a back cloth extending from the side of the cup part to the back side, and a shoulder strap, the back cloth is an elastic cloth, It has an upper edge, a lower edge longer than the upper edge, a front edge, a rear edge shorter than the front edge, and an oblique edge connecting the rear edge of the upper edge and the upper edge of the rear edge.
  • the front upper part has the largest expansion power
  • the front lower part has the rear upper part, the rear lower part in order of the expansion power
  • the back cloth is It also has elasticity in the vertical direction, and the slanted edge extends over both the lower rear side and the upper rear side, and the shoulder strap is attached along the entire length
  • the shapeability and the compensation function of the heel portion are enhanced.
  • the upper part contributes to the formability, and the upper part has a feeling of support, so the front upper part is the strongest, and the front lower part is the elastic power. Is set strongly.
  • the feeling of local pressure is also strengthened, and the front upper part that needs to be strongly suppressed in order to correct the buttocks and improve the formability becomes relatively weak. Can't perform enough.
  • the lower part of the front side is set to be slightly weaker than the upper part of the front side.
  • the upper stretch power is strong, but the rear upper part is about the same as the front upper part. If it is made strong, a strong feeling of pressure is produced and the feeling of wearing is reduced.
  • the rear upper part has a third-strength expansion / contraction power.
  • the expansion power of the rear upper part is made smaller than that of the front lower part, because the rear side contributes to the shapeability of the eyelids that need to be particularly corrected, and the expansion power may be small. It is.
  • the expansion power of the rear upper part is made larger than that of the lower part of the rear part, as mentioned above, because the support part is accompanied by strengthening the upper part. Depending on the fact that there is a lot of fat, it is necessary to suppress strongly.
  • the back cloth generally has an upper edge, a lower edge that is longer than the upper edge, a front edge, a rear edge that is shorter than the front edge, and a slant that connects the upper edge rear end and the rear edge upper end along the shoulder strap.
  • the outer shape is surrounded by an edge.
  • the back cloth of such an outer shape gradually becomes thinner as it goes to the back side, and the upper edge and lower edge of the general back cloth shape in which the end of the shoulder strap is attached to one place on the upper side of the narrow width.
  • a shoulder strap is attached along the entire length of the slanted edge connecting the rear edge of the upper edge and the upper edge of the rear edge.
  • the shoulder strap expands and contracts. And will move.
  • the back cloth at the place where the shoulder strap is attached has elasticity in the vertical direction as well as in the front-rear direction. It is possible to prevent the back cloth from being displaced.
  • the lower part of the rear side where the end of the shoulder strap is attached is weakened in the expansion and contraction power. Can fully absorb the movement and expansion / contraction of the shoulder strap.
  • the upper edge is a hem specification, it is not necessary to perform end cleaning such as attaching a highly stretchable narrow tape and sewing the upper edge, so that there is no step due to the tape. Further, it is possible to further eliminate the occurrence of a step near the upper edge where a step is likely to occur.
  • the shape of the back cloth can be appropriately divided into four regions. Therefore, the effect by the back
  • the power switching line extending in the vertical direction that forms the boundary between each front side part and each rear side part is located in the vicinity of the wearer's rear axillary line
  • the next lower front part of the power covers between the anterior and posterior axillary lines.
  • This part is a place where the skin stretches and fats a lot in the human body, and because it is a place that you want to hold down firmly for correction and modeling, by making the part with strong stretching power compatible, A further improvement in feeling is achieved.
  • the division by the telescopic power has three stages in the vertical direction. Further smoothing can be achieved at the back cloth portion, that is, the silhouette at the back cloth portion can be made more beautiful than in the case of two stages in the vertical direction.
  • the back cloth is divided into the front and rear and up and down directions, and the expansion and contraction power is set according to the function of each part.
  • a garment having a cup portion such as a brassiere can be provided.
  • FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a brassiere 1 as a garment having a cup portion according to the present invention as seen from the front.
  • FIG. 2 is the figure which looked at the brassiere 2 from the back side.
  • a non-stretchable base cloth 3 is sewn from the side to the bottom of the cup portion 2 and is supported thereby.
  • a narrow tape 7 is sewn to the boundary between the cup portion 2 and the base cloth 3 on the back side, and a cup wire (not shown) is inserted therein.
  • a stretchable back cloth 4 is sewn to the side edges of the base cloth 3.
  • a narrow tape 9 is sewn on the back side at the boundary between the base cloth 3 and the back cloth 4, and a bone (not shown), which is a synthetic resin reinforcing material, is inserted in the inside.
  • a stretchable narrow-width tape 8 is sewn from the base cloth 3 to the lower end of the back side of the back cloth 4.
  • a hook attachment cloth 6 is sewn on the rear edge of the back cloth 4.
  • the back cloth 4 is shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 and an enlarged plan view in FIG. Although there are two back cloths 4 on the left and right, only one of them will be described because it is symmetrical. Further, the description will be made with the side closer to the cup portion 2, that is, the left side in FIGS. 1 to 3, as the front, and the back side, that is, the right side in FIGS.
  • the back cloth 4 has an upper edge 4a, a lower edge 4b longer than the upper edge, a front edge 4c, a rear edge 4d shorter than the front edge, and an oblique edge 4e connecting the rear edge of the upper edge 4a and the upper edge of the rear edge 4d.
  • the shape is surrounded by.
  • the slanted edge 4e has a slightly convex curve, and a stretchable shoulder strap 5 having a strong stretch force is sewn along the entire length of the slanted edge 4e.
  • the back cloth 4 has elasticity in the vertical direction.
  • the upper edge 4a has a hem specification that does not require any cleanup and has a linear shape.
  • the lower edge 4b has a slightly convex curve.
  • the back cloth is gradually tapered from the cup side end (front end) to the back side end (rear end), and the end of the shoulder strap is attached in the middle.
  • the upper edge 4a, the lower edge 4b, the front edge 4c, the rear edge 4d, and the shoulder strap 5 as described above are surrounded by the oblique edge 4e attached along the upper edge 4a. It has a shape, and while the upper edge 4a and the lower edge 4b overlap in the front-rear direction, it becomes a shape suitable for being further divided into four regions. In the range where the upper edge 4a and the lower edge 4b overlap, the width between the upper edge 4a and the lower edge 4b does not change greatly.
  • x1 is in a range 2 to 10% longer than x2, that is, x1 is in a range of 1.02 to 1.1 of x2. preferable.
  • x2 is preferably in the range of 75 to 105 mm
  • x1 is preferably 1.02 to 1.1 in length.
  • such a wide back cloth 4 is divided into four parts according to the strength of the stretching power in the front-rear direction.
  • the back cloth 4 is divided into four sections by a linear power switching line L1 extending in the vertical direction and a linear power switching line L2 extending in the front-rear direction.
  • the front upper portion 41 has the largest expansion / contraction power in the front-rear direction, and then the expansion / contraction power is gradually reduced in the order of the front lower portion 42, the rear upper portion 43, and the rear lower portion 44.
  • four areas where the expansion / contraction power in the left-right direction in the figure is the strongest are gradually reduced from 10A to 10B, 10C, and 10D.
  • the back cloth 4 may be cut from the cloth 10 so as to correspond to the respective sections 41 to 44 and cut out. And applying the strength of the expansion / contraction power to the fabric 10 includes knitting each region with yarns having different elastic forces, for example, polyurethane yarns having different thicknesses, making the number of elastic yarns to be inserted different depending on each region, It may be performed by knitting knitting structures having different powers in each region. Moreover, depending on the case, it is also possible to form the back
  • the reason why the back cloth 4 of this embodiment is divided into four according to the strength of the expansion and contraction power is as follows.
  • the power switching line L1 that divides the back cloth 4 forward and backward is positioned near the rear axilla line of the human body.
  • the power switching line L1 is positioned within a range of 10% of the length of the upper edge 4a before and after the rear axillary line of the wearer. This is because the effect of the position of the power switching line L1 from the rear axillary line does not decrease drastically even if it is slightly different from the rear axillary line.
  • the power switching line L1 it is impossible to provide the power switching line L1 at the coincident position, and if it is designed to coincide with the rear axilla line in the case of a standard body shape, it is located within the above range in the case of the majority of body shapes. Is attributed.
  • the front upper part 41 and the front lower part 42 of the back cloth 4 have a large amount of skin stretch and fat, and the anterior axillary line and the rear axilla that need to be strongly suppressed for correction and shaping It will cover between the lines. Therefore, the expansion power of these front upper part and front lower part is strengthened to enhance the effect of correcting and shaping the heel part.
  • the upper part has more fat corresponding to the human body than the lower part, and if the expansion and contraction power is increased, the effects of correction and modeling are great. Moreover, sufficient support feeling by the back cloth 4 is obtained by strengthening the upper part.
  • the front lower part 42 is set to a strong expansion / contraction power as much as the front upper part 41, the local upper part also has a strong feeling of pressure, and the front upper part that needs to be strongly suppressed in order to correct the buttocks and improve the formability. 41 becomes relatively weak and cannot function sufficiently. Therefore, the front lower part 42 has a weaker power than the front upper part 41.
  • the expansion / contraction power of the rear upper part 43 is made larger than that of the rear lower part 44.
  • the rear upper part 43 is made as strong as the front upper part 41, the overall contraction force is increased, and a strong feeling of pressure is generated, and the wearing feeling is lowered.
  • the rear upper portion 43 has the third strength because it contributes less to the formability than the front lower portion 42.
  • the feeling of support is further improved when the upper extension power is made stronger than the lower part over the front side and the rear side. Furthermore, particularly in the strongest power portion of the front upper portion 41, the correction and modeling are improved, and a step on the human body surface is hardly generated. Moreover, although the feeling of support can be improved by making the expansion / contraction power of the rear upper part 43 larger than the rear lower part 44, the part of the wearer where the rear upper part is located is further compared with the rear lower part. It depends on the fact that it is fat and needs to be strongly suppressed.
  • an oblique edge 4e connecting the rear end of the upper edge 4a of the back cloth 4 and the upper end of the rear edge 4d is formed from the rear lower part 44 to the rear upper part 43, and along its entire length.
  • a shoulder strap 5 is attached.
  • the rear upper portion 43 and the rear lower portion 44 are also stretchable in the vertical direction. Therefore, when the wearer moves the shoulder, the shoulder strap 5 expands and contracts. At that time, the rear upper portion 43 and the rear lower portion 44 of the back cloth 4 have elasticity in the vertical direction as well as in the front-rear direction. The position of the back cloth 4 can be prevented from shifting.
  • the rear side to which the shoulder strap 5 is attached particularly the rear lower portion 44 to which the end portion of the shoulder strap 5 is attached has the weakest expansion / contraction power. Is weak and easily stretchable and can sufficiently absorb the movement and expansion / contraction of the shoulder strap 5.
  • the front upper portion 41 and the front lower portion 42 are also less stretchable than the rear upper portion 43 and the rear lower portion 44, but are also elastic in the vertical direction, so It can absorb the up and down movement of the skin.
  • the upper edge 4a of the back cloth 4 has a hem specification, and therefore it is not necessary to clean up the end edge by attaching a narrow elastic tape and sewing the upper edge. Therefore, there is no step on the human body surface due to the narrow elastic tape, and the step near the upper edge 4a of the back cloth 4 where the step is likely to occur can be further eliminated.
  • the lower edge 4b of the back cloth 4 is an upwardly convex curve.
  • the human body on which the back cloth 4 is located generally has an upper portion that is larger in circumference than the lower portion, is inclined in the vertical direction, and the long lower edge 4b is linear, Does not match. Therefore, the lower edge 4b is curved upward so that it fits when worn around a human body with an inclination.
  • the back cloth 4 may be divided into six parts according to the stretching power in the front-rear direction. That is, between the front upper part 41 and the front lower part 42, the front middle part 45 having an elastic power that is smaller than the elastic power of the front upper part 41 and larger than the elastic power of the front lower part 42, and the rear upper part 43 and the rear lower part 44. There is further provided a rear middle portion 46 having a telescopic power that is smaller than the telescopic power of the rear upper portion 43 and larger than the telescopic power of the rear lower portion 44.
  • the telescopic power is divided into six parts that become smaller in the order of the front upper part 41, the front middle part 45, the front lower part 42, the rear upper part 43, the rear middle part 46, and the rear lower part 44. Therefore, there are two linear power switching lines L2 extending in the front-rear direction, L2-1 and L2-2, but the positions of the other power switching lines L1 in the vertical direction, the preferred ratio of x1 and x2, etc. Is the same as that described in the embodiment up to FIG. As in this embodiment, when it is divided into six sections, the section based on the expansion and contraction power has three stages in the vertical direction, so in the back cloth 4 portion, compared to the case of the four section embodiment. Further smoothing can be achieved. That is, the silhouette at the back cloth part can be further enhanced.
  • the hook attachment cloth 6 is disposed at the rear end of the back cloth 4.
  • the front hook is configured such that the rear ends of the back cloth 4 are integrally connected and the front sides are connected by a hook. It may be of a type.
  • the garment of the present invention has been described with the brassiere 1.
  • a cup part, a back cloth, a shoulder strap such as a brass lip, a bra camisole, a body suit, a teddy with a cup, a swimsuit, etc. It is applicable if it is clothing provided with.
  • a fabric 10 made of satin as shown in FIG. 4 was knitted by a KARL MAYER warp knitting machine RSE5EL. With such a warp knitting machine, power can be switched by switching yarns not only in the weft direction (vertical direction in the drawing) but also in the warp direction (horizontal direction in the drawing). Nylon yarn and polyurethane yarn were mixed. The area obtained by combining the two 10B and 10D divided by the power switching line L2 and the area obtained by combining the two 10A and 10C are different in the polyurethane yarn as the elastic yarn to be inserted.
  • 310 dtex (280 denier) polyurethane yarn was used in the two regions of 10B and 10D, whereas the same 310 dtex (280 denier) polyurethane yarn was used in the two regions of 10A and 10C.
  • 235 dtex (210 denier) polyurethane yarn was inserted in between, and the polyurethane yarn was 545 dtex (490 denier) in terms of yarn thickness.
  • the area where the two 10C and 10D are divided by the power switching line L1 and the area where the two 10A and 10B are combined change the knitting conditions such as the structure and runner, and have two characteristics.
  • the fabric portions corresponding to the front middle portion 45 and the rear middle portion 46 provided as intermediate portions between the power switching lines L2-1 and L2-2 are 310 dtex (280 denier).
  • 310 dtex 280 denier
  • the back fabric 4 was cut as shown in FIG. 4 to produce a brassiere as described in the embodiment.
  • the A prototype (the upper part of the back cloth 41 and 43 has the same strength, the power is the strongest, and the upper part, the lower part on the front side, and the lower part on the rear side are weakened in order).
  • B prototype (the same three sections as A prototype, but weakened in the order of lower front, upper, lower rear), C prototype (front and rear two sections strengthened)
  • Fig. 6 shows the results of the evaluation of the wear on a monitor for this example and each prototype. Note that the A to C prototypes are not publicly known, and are prototypes for comparison.
  • the buttock compensation and the formability were excellent, the level difference was eliminated well, the feeling of support was sufficient and the feeling of pressure was not felt.
  • the front side is the same as that of the present embodiment, so that the formability and the level difference elimination are acceptable, but the upper part is similarly strong in the front and rear, so that a feeling of pressure is generated.
  • the elastic power at the front upper part is lower than the front lower part, so the formability and level difference elimination (particularly the formability) are not sufficient, and the upper part is also weak, so the support feeling is poor and the wearing feeling It is inferior to.
  • the front side has no difference in power between the upper and lower sides, is inferior in formability and level difference, and the rear side also has no difference in the upper and lower sides. Therefore, the feeling of support is poor and the wearing feeling is inferior.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Corsets Or Brassieres (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention porte sur des vêtements avec parties de bonnets tels que des soutien-gorge dans lesquels un tissu arrière est divisé en sections le long des directions avant-arrière et verticale et une force d'extension est spécifiée pour chacune de ces sections en fonction de la fonction de celle-ci de façon à établir, dans son ensemble, d'excellentes propriétés de définition de forme, une irrégularité minimisée et un confort lors du port. L'invention porte spécifiquement sur des vêtements au moins équipés d'une partie de bonnet (2), d'un tissu arrière (4) s'étendant du côté sous le bras de la partie de bonnet au côté arrière et d'une bretelle (5), le tissu arrière (4), qui comprend un tissu extensible, ayant un bord supérieur (4a), un bord inférieur (4b) qui est plus long que le bord supérieur, un bord avant (4c), un bord arrière (4d) qui est plus court que le bord avant et un bord oblique (4e) qui relie l'extrémité arrière du bord supérieur à l'extrémité supérieure du bord arrière, et est divisé en au moins quatre sections en fonction de la différence d'intensités de force d'extension dans la direction avant-arrière. Notamment, la force d'extension est plus forte dans la partie supérieure dans le côté avant (41) et diminue progressivement dans la partie inférieure dans le côté avant (42), la partie supérieure dans le côté arrière (43) et la partie inférieure dans le côté arrière (44) dans cet ordre. Le tissu arrière est également extensible dans la direction verticale et le bord oblique (4) de celui-ci s'étend à la fois vers la partie inférieure du côté arrière (44) et la partie supérieure du côté arrière (43). La bretelle (5) est attachée sur toute la longueur du bord oblique.
PCT/JP2010/051607 2009-02-06 2010-02-04 Vêtements avec parties de bonnets WO2010090255A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN2010800067586A CN102307489B (zh) 2009-02-06 2010-02-04 具有罩杯部的衣服

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2009-026400 2009-02-06
JP2009026400A JP5129173B2 (ja) 2009-02-06 2009-02-06 カップ部を有する衣類

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2010090255A1 true WO2010090255A1 (fr) 2010-08-12

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/JP2010/051607 WO2010090255A1 (fr) 2009-02-06 2010-02-04 Vêtements avec parties de bonnets

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JP (1) JP5129173B2 (fr)
CN (1) CN102307489B (fr)
WO (1) WO2010090255A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2018102532A1 (fr) * 2016-12-01 2018-06-07 Chico's Brands Investments Soutien-gorge ayant des coutures réduites dans le dos et procédé de fabrication

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP5444295B2 (ja) * 2011-07-27 2014-03-19 株式会社ランブール ブラジャー
JP2013053394A (ja) * 2011-09-06 2013-03-21 Gunze Ltd ブラジャー
JP5618423B2 (ja) * 2011-09-21 2014-11-05 イオン株式会社 ブラジャー
CN108463129B (zh) * 2016-01-27 2019-07-12 株式会社华歌尔 具有罩杯部的衣服
WO2019224885A1 (fr) * 2018-05-21 2019-11-28 株式会社アシックス Soutien-gorge
JP7262414B2 (ja) * 2020-04-02 2023-04-21 株式会社アシックス ブラジャー

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JP2000008203A (ja) * 1998-04-22 2000-01-11 Wacoal Corp 体型補整機能または筋肉サポート機能を有する衣類
JP2002235209A (ja) * 2001-02-05 2002-08-23 Wacoal Corp カップ部を有する衣類
JP2003342806A (ja) * 2002-05-28 2003-12-03 Triumph International (Japan) Ltd ブラジャー
JP2005320644A (ja) * 2004-05-06 2005-11-17 Wacoal Corp カップ部およびバック布を有する衣料

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US5820444A (en) * 1997-02-03 1998-10-13 Mcgaughey; Eleanor F. Post surgical brassiere
US6514120B1 (en) * 2001-10-05 2003-02-04 Brian Hass Brassiere
CN2894310Y (zh) * 2006-03-28 2007-05-02 赖建宇 具有多段式撑托的机能罩杯结构

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2000008203A (ja) * 1998-04-22 2000-01-11 Wacoal Corp 体型補整機能または筋肉サポート機能を有する衣類
JP2002235209A (ja) * 2001-02-05 2002-08-23 Wacoal Corp カップ部を有する衣類
JP2003342806A (ja) * 2002-05-28 2003-12-03 Triumph International (Japan) Ltd ブラジャー
JP2005320644A (ja) * 2004-05-06 2005-11-17 Wacoal Corp カップ部およびバック布を有する衣料

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2018102532A1 (fr) * 2016-12-01 2018-06-07 Chico's Brands Investments Soutien-gorge ayant des coutures réduites dans le dos et procédé de fabrication
US10660375B2 (en) 2016-12-01 2020-05-26 Chico's Brands Investments Brassiere having reduced seams in the back and method of making
AU2017368151B2 (en) * 2016-12-01 2023-08-24 Chico's Brands Investments Brassiere having reduced seams in the back and method of making

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP5129173B2 (ja) 2013-01-23
CN102307489B (zh) 2013-12-11
CN102307489A (zh) 2012-01-04
JP2010180509A (ja) 2010-08-19

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