WO2010090255A1 - Clothes with cup parts - Google Patents

Clothes with cup parts Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010090255A1
WO2010090255A1 PCT/JP2010/051607 JP2010051607W WO2010090255A1 WO 2010090255 A1 WO2010090255 A1 WO 2010090255A1 JP 2010051607 W JP2010051607 W JP 2010051607W WO 2010090255 A1 WO2010090255 A1 WO 2010090255A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
edge
power
cup
back cloth
cloth
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2010/051607
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French (fr)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
智晴 今西
愛香 木野
Original Assignee
株式会社ワコール
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Publication date
Application filed by 株式会社ワコール filed Critical 株式会社ワコール
Priority to CN2010800067586A priority Critical patent/CN102307489B/en
Publication of WO2010090255A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010090255A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41CCORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00Brassieres
    • A41C3/12Component parts
    • A41C3/14Stiffening or bust-forming inserts
    • A41C3/142Stiffening inserts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41CCORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00Brassieres
    • A41C3/12Component parts

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to clothing, particularly clothing having a cup portion.
  • the back cloth In clothing with a cup part such as a brassiere, the back cloth is located from the wearer's heel to the back. It is desired that this back cloth enhances the wearer's feeling of support, particularly at the heel, and prevents a step due to skin swell as much as possible.
  • a highly stretchable tape has been attached to the top and bottom of the back cloth. However, when a highly stretchable tape is attached, the tape bites into the skin and causes a step at the wearer's buttocks above and below the tape.
  • Patent Document 1 while eliminating the tape of the upper and lower edges of a back cloth, making the expansion power in the upper and lower sides small, and making the expansion power in the center part large, the device which makes it difficult to produce a level difference is made. Further, Patent Document 2 discloses a technique for knitting the upper and lower regions of the back cloth so that the expansion and contraction powers are different and preventing the occurrence of deviation from the skin.
  • JP 2002-235209 A Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 7-28921
  • Patent Document 1 the feeling of support at the portion of the back cloth may be poor when worn, and this tendency is particularly great when the back cloth is made narrow.
  • the technology described in Patent Document 2 also has different stretching powers at the top and bottom of the back cloth, but this is for preventing the location where the stretching power is strong from moving with the skin, It does not improve the feeling of support or eliminate the level difference, nor does it solve the problem of Patent Document 1.
  • both the techniques of patent documents 1 and 2 have strong stretch power in the front-rear direction of the back cloth, if the stretch power is sufficiently strong to achieve each purpose, The person has a feeling of wearing that is squeezed all over.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a garment having a cup portion such as a brassiere that is excellent in a compensation function, hardly causes a step, and has a good wearing feeling.
  • a garment having a cup part according to the present invention is a garment comprising at least a cup part, a back cloth extending from the side of the cup part to the back side, and a shoulder strap, the back cloth is an elastic cloth, It has an upper edge, a lower edge longer than the upper edge, a front edge, a rear edge shorter than the front edge, and an oblique edge connecting the rear edge of the upper edge and the upper edge of the rear edge.
  • the front upper part has the largest expansion power
  • the front lower part has the rear upper part, the rear lower part in order of the expansion power
  • the back cloth is It also has elasticity in the vertical direction, and the slanted edge extends over both the lower rear side and the upper rear side, and the shoulder strap is attached along the entire length
  • the shapeability and the compensation function of the heel portion are enhanced.
  • the upper part contributes to the formability, and the upper part has a feeling of support, so the front upper part is the strongest, and the front lower part is the elastic power. Is set strongly.
  • the feeling of local pressure is also strengthened, and the front upper part that needs to be strongly suppressed in order to correct the buttocks and improve the formability becomes relatively weak. Can't perform enough.
  • the lower part of the front side is set to be slightly weaker than the upper part of the front side.
  • the upper stretch power is strong, but the rear upper part is about the same as the front upper part. If it is made strong, a strong feeling of pressure is produced and the feeling of wearing is reduced.
  • the rear upper part has a third-strength expansion / contraction power.
  • the expansion power of the rear upper part is made smaller than that of the front lower part, because the rear side contributes to the shapeability of the eyelids that need to be particularly corrected, and the expansion power may be small. It is.
  • the expansion power of the rear upper part is made larger than that of the lower part of the rear part, as mentioned above, because the support part is accompanied by strengthening the upper part. Depending on the fact that there is a lot of fat, it is necessary to suppress strongly.
  • the back cloth generally has an upper edge, a lower edge that is longer than the upper edge, a front edge, a rear edge that is shorter than the front edge, and a slant that connects the upper edge rear end and the rear edge upper end along the shoulder strap.
  • the outer shape is surrounded by an edge.
  • the back cloth of such an outer shape gradually becomes thinner as it goes to the back side, and the upper edge and lower edge of the general back cloth shape in which the end of the shoulder strap is attached to one place on the upper side of the narrow width.
  • a shoulder strap is attached along the entire length of the slanted edge connecting the rear edge of the upper edge and the upper edge of the rear edge.
  • the shoulder strap expands and contracts. And will move.
  • the back cloth at the place where the shoulder strap is attached has elasticity in the vertical direction as well as in the front-rear direction. It is possible to prevent the back cloth from being displaced.
  • the lower part of the rear side where the end of the shoulder strap is attached is weakened in the expansion and contraction power. Can fully absorb the movement and expansion / contraction of the shoulder strap.
  • the upper edge is a hem specification, it is not necessary to perform end cleaning such as attaching a highly stretchable narrow tape and sewing the upper edge, so that there is no step due to the tape. Further, it is possible to further eliminate the occurrence of a step near the upper edge where a step is likely to occur.
  • the shape of the back cloth can be appropriately divided into four regions. Therefore, the effect by the back
  • the power switching line extending in the vertical direction that forms the boundary between each front side part and each rear side part is located in the vicinity of the wearer's rear axillary line
  • the next lower front part of the power covers between the anterior and posterior axillary lines.
  • This part is a place where the skin stretches and fats a lot in the human body, and because it is a place that you want to hold down firmly for correction and modeling, by making the part with strong stretching power compatible, A further improvement in feeling is achieved.
  • the division by the telescopic power has three stages in the vertical direction. Further smoothing can be achieved at the back cloth portion, that is, the silhouette at the back cloth portion can be made more beautiful than in the case of two stages in the vertical direction.
  • the back cloth is divided into the front and rear and up and down directions, and the expansion and contraction power is set according to the function of each part.
  • a garment having a cup portion such as a brassiere can be provided.
  • FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a brassiere 1 as a garment having a cup portion according to the present invention as seen from the front.
  • FIG. 2 is the figure which looked at the brassiere 2 from the back side.
  • a non-stretchable base cloth 3 is sewn from the side to the bottom of the cup portion 2 and is supported thereby.
  • a narrow tape 7 is sewn to the boundary between the cup portion 2 and the base cloth 3 on the back side, and a cup wire (not shown) is inserted therein.
  • a stretchable back cloth 4 is sewn to the side edges of the base cloth 3.
  • a narrow tape 9 is sewn on the back side at the boundary between the base cloth 3 and the back cloth 4, and a bone (not shown), which is a synthetic resin reinforcing material, is inserted in the inside.
  • a stretchable narrow-width tape 8 is sewn from the base cloth 3 to the lower end of the back side of the back cloth 4.
  • a hook attachment cloth 6 is sewn on the rear edge of the back cloth 4.
  • the back cloth 4 is shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 and an enlarged plan view in FIG. Although there are two back cloths 4 on the left and right, only one of them will be described because it is symmetrical. Further, the description will be made with the side closer to the cup portion 2, that is, the left side in FIGS. 1 to 3, as the front, and the back side, that is, the right side in FIGS.
  • the back cloth 4 has an upper edge 4a, a lower edge 4b longer than the upper edge, a front edge 4c, a rear edge 4d shorter than the front edge, and an oblique edge 4e connecting the rear edge of the upper edge 4a and the upper edge of the rear edge 4d.
  • the shape is surrounded by.
  • the slanted edge 4e has a slightly convex curve, and a stretchable shoulder strap 5 having a strong stretch force is sewn along the entire length of the slanted edge 4e.
  • the back cloth 4 has elasticity in the vertical direction.
  • the upper edge 4a has a hem specification that does not require any cleanup and has a linear shape.
  • the lower edge 4b has a slightly convex curve.
  • the back cloth is gradually tapered from the cup side end (front end) to the back side end (rear end), and the end of the shoulder strap is attached in the middle.
  • the upper edge 4a, the lower edge 4b, the front edge 4c, the rear edge 4d, and the shoulder strap 5 as described above are surrounded by the oblique edge 4e attached along the upper edge 4a. It has a shape, and while the upper edge 4a and the lower edge 4b overlap in the front-rear direction, it becomes a shape suitable for being further divided into four regions. In the range where the upper edge 4a and the lower edge 4b overlap, the width between the upper edge 4a and the lower edge 4b does not change greatly.
  • x1 is in a range 2 to 10% longer than x2, that is, x1 is in a range of 1.02 to 1.1 of x2. preferable.
  • x2 is preferably in the range of 75 to 105 mm
  • x1 is preferably 1.02 to 1.1 in length.
  • such a wide back cloth 4 is divided into four parts according to the strength of the stretching power in the front-rear direction.
  • the back cloth 4 is divided into four sections by a linear power switching line L1 extending in the vertical direction and a linear power switching line L2 extending in the front-rear direction.
  • the front upper portion 41 has the largest expansion / contraction power in the front-rear direction, and then the expansion / contraction power is gradually reduced in the order of the front lower portion 42, the rear upper portion 43, and the rear lower portion 44.
  • four areas where the expansion / contraction power in the left-right direction in the figure is the strongest are gradually reduced from 10A to 10B, 10C, and 10D.
  • the back cloth 4 may be cut from the cloth 10 so as to correspond to the respective sections 41 to 44 and cut out. And applying the strength of the expansion / contraction power to the fabric 10 includes knitting each region with yarns having different elastic forces, for example, polyurethane yarns having different thicknesses, making the number of elastic yarns to be inserted different depending on each region, It may be performed by knitting knitting structures having different powers in each region. Moreover, depending on the case, it is also possible to form the back
  • the reason why the back cloth 4 of this embodiment is divided into four according to the strength of the expansion and contraction power is as follows.
  • the power switching line L1 that divides the back cloth 4 forward and backward is positioned near the rear axilla line of the human body.
  • the power switching line L1 is positioned within a range of 10% of the length of the upper edge 4a before and after the rear axillary line of the wearer. This is because the effect of the position of the power switching line L1 from the rear axillary line does not decrease drastically even if it is slightly different from the rear axillary line.
  • the power switching line L1 it is impossible to provide the power switching line L1 at the coincident position, and if it is designed to coincide with the rear axilla line in the case of a standard body shape, it is located within the above range in the case of the majority of body shapes. Is attributed.
  • the front upper part 41 and the front lower part 42 of the back cloth 4 have a large amount of skin stretch and fat, and the anterior axillary line and the rear axilla that need to be strongly suppressed for correction and shaping It will cover between the lines. Therefore, the expansion power of these front upper part and front lower part is strengthened to enhance the effect of correcting and shaping the heel part.
  • the upper part has more fat corresponding to the human body than the lower part, and if the expansion and contraction power is increased, the effects of correction and modeling are great. Moreover, sufficient support feeling by the back cloth 4 is obtained by strengthening the upper part.
  • the front lower part 42 is set to a strong expansion / contraction power as much as the front upper part 41, the local upper part also has a strong feeling of pressure, and the front upper part that needs to be strongly suppressed in order to correct the buttocks and improve the formability. 41 becomes relatively weak and cannot function sufficiently. Therefore, the front lower part 42 has a weaker power than the front upper part 41.
  • the expansion / contraction power of the rear upper part 43 is made larger than that of the rear lower part 44.
  • the rear upper part 43 is made as strong as the front upper part 41, the overall contraction force is increased, and a strong feeling of pressure is generated, and the wearing feeling is lowered.
  • the rear upper portion 43 has the third strength because it contributes less to the formability than the front lower portion 42.
  • the feeling of support is further improved when the upper extension power is made stronger than the lower part over the front side and the rear side. Furthermore, particularly in the strongest power portion of the front upper portion 41, the correction and modeling are improved, and a step on the human body surface is hardly generated. Moreover, although the feeling of support can be improved by making the expansion / contraction power of the rear upper part 43 larger than the rear lower part 44, the part of the wearer where the rear upper part is located is further compared with the rear lower part. It depends on the fact that it is fat and needs to be strongly suppressed.
  • an oblique edge 4e connecting the rear end of the upper edge 4a of the back cloth 4 and the upper end of the rear edge 4d is formed from the rear lower part 44 to the rear upper part 43, and along its entire length.
  • a shoulder strap 5 is attached.
  • the rear upper portion 43 and the rear lower portion 44 are also stretchable in the vertical direction. Therefore, when the wearer moves the shoulder, the shoulder strap 5 expands and contracts. At that time, the rear upper portion 43 and the rear lower portion 44 of the back cloth 4 have elasticity in the vertical direction as well as in the front-rear direction. The position of the back cloth 4 can be prevented from shifting.
  • the rear side to which the shoulder strap 5 is attached particularly the rear lower portion 44 to which the end portion of the shoulder strap 5 is attached has the weakest expansion / contraction power. Is weak and easily stretchable and can sufficiently absorb the movement and expansion / contraction of the shoulder strap 5.
  • the front upper portion 41 and the front lower portion 42 are also less stretchable than the rear upper portion 43 and the rear lower portion 44, but are also elastic in the vertical direction, so It can absorb the up and down movement of the skin.
  • the upper edge 4a of the back cloth 4 has a hem specification, and therefore it is not necessary to clean up the end edge by attaching a narrow elastic tape and sewing the upper edge. Therefore, there is no step on the human body surface due to the narrow elastic tape, and the step near the upper edge 4a of the back cloth 4 where the step is likely to occur can be further eliminated.
  • the lower edge 4b of the back cloth 4 is an upwardly convex curve.
  • the human body on which the back cloth 4 is located generally has an upper portion that is larger in circumference than the lower portion, is inclined in the vertical direction, and the long lower edge 4b is linear, Does not match. Therefore, the lower edge 4b is curved upward so that it fits when worn around a human body with an inclination.
  • the back cloth 4 may be divided into six parts according to the stretching power in the front-rear direction. That is, between the front upper part 41 and the front lower part 42, the front middle part 45 having an elastic power that is smaller than the elastic power of the front upper part 41 and larger than the elastic power of the front lower part 42, and the rear upper part 43 and the rear lower part 44. There is further provided a rear middle portion 46 having a telescopic power that is smaller than the telescopic power of the rear upper portion 43 and larger than the telescopic power of the rear lower portion 44.
  • the telescopic power is divided into six parts that become smaller in the order of the front upper part 41, the front middle part 45, the front lower part 42, the rear upper part 43, the rear middle part 46, and the rear lower part 44. Therefore, there are two linear power switching lines L2 extending in the front-rear direction, L2-1 and L2-2, but the positions of the other power switching lines L1 in the vertical direction, the preferred ratio of x1 and x2, etc. Is the same as that described in the embodiment up to FIG. As in this embodiment, when it is divided into six sections, the section based on the expansion and contraction power has three stages in the vertical direction, so in the back cloth 4 portion, compared to the case of the four section embodiment. Further smoothing can be achieved. That is, the silhouette at the back cloth part can be further enhanced.
  • the hook attachment cloth 6 is disposed at the rear end of the back cloth 4.
  • the front hook is configured such that the rear ends of the back cloth 4 are integrally connected and the front sides are connected by a hook. It may be of a type.
  • the garment of the present invention has been described with the brassiere 1.
  • a cup part, a back cloth, a shoulder strap such as a brass lip, a bra camisole, a body suit, a teddy with a cup, a swimsuit, etc. It is applicable if it is clothing provided with.
  • a fabric 10 made of satin as shown in FIG. 4 was knitted by a KARL MAYER warp knitting machine RSE5EL. With such a warp knitting machine, power can be switched by switching yarns not only in the weft direction (vertical direction in the drawing) but also in the warp direction (horizontal direction in the drawing). Nylon yarn and polyurethane yarn were mixed. The area obtained by combining the two 10B and 10D divided by the power switching line L2 and the area obtained by combining the two 10A and 10C are different in the polyurethane yarn as the elastic yarn to be inserted.
  • 310 dtex (280 denier) polyurethane yarn was used in the two regions of 10B and 10D, whereas the same 310 dtex (280 denier) polyurethane yarn was used in the two regions of 10A and 10C.
  • 235 dtex (210 denier) polyurethane yarn was inserted in between, and the polyurethane yarn was 545 dtex (490 denier) in terms of yarn thickness.
  • the area where the two 10C and 10D are divided by the power switching line L1 and the area where the two 10A and 10B are combined change the knitting conditions such as the structure and runner, and have two characteristics.
  • the fabric portions corresponding to the front middle portion 45 and the rear middle portion 46 provided as intermediate portions between the power switching lines L2-1 and L2-2 are 310 dtex (280 denier).
  • 310 dtex 280 denier
  • the back fabric 4 was cut as shown in FIG. 4 to produce a brassiere as described in the embodiment.
  • the A prototype (the upper part of the back cloth 41 and 43 has the same strength, the power is the strongest, and the upper part, the lower part on the front side, and the lower part on the rear side are weakened in order).
  • B prototype (the same three sections as A prototype, but weakened in the order of lower front, upper, lower rear), C prototype (front and rear two sections strengthened)
  • Fig. 6 shows the results of the evaluation of the wear on a monitor for this example and each prototype. Note that the A to C prototypes are not publicly known, and are prototypes for comparison.
  • the buttock compensation and the formability were excellent, the level difference was eliminated well, the feeling of support was sufficient and the feeling of pressure was not felt.
  • the front side is the same as that of the present embodiment, so that the formability and the level difference elimination are acceptable, but the upper part is similarly strong in the front and rear, so that a feeling of pressure is generated.
  • the elastic power at the front upper part is lower than the front lower part, so the formability and level difference elimination (particularly the formability) are not sufficient, and the upper part is also weak, so the support feeling is poor and the wearing feeling It is inferior to.
  • the front side has no difference in power between the upper and lower sides, is inferior in formability and level difference, and the rear side also has no difference in the upper and lower sides. Therefore, the feeling of support is poor and the wearing feeling is inferior.

Abstract

Disclosed are clothes with cup parts such as brassieres in which a back fabric is divided into sections along the front-back and vertical directions and a stretching power is specified for each of these sections depending on the function thereof so as to establish, as a whole, excellent shape-defining properties, minimized unevenness and comfortableness in wearing. Specifically disclosed are clothes at least equipped with a cup part (2), a back fabric (4) extending from the underarm side of the cup part to the back side and a strap (5), wherein the back fabric (4), which comprises a stretchable fabric, has an upper edge (4a), a lower edge (4b) that is longer than the upper edge, a front edge (4c), a back edge (4d) that is shorter than the front edge, and an oblique edge (4e) that connects the back end of the upper edge with the upper end of the back edge, and is divided into at least four sections depending on the difference in stretching power strengths in the front-back direction. Namely, the stretching power is strongest in the upper part in the front side (41) and gradually decreases in the lower part in the front side (42), the upper part in the back side (43) and the lower part in the back side (44) in this order. The back fabric is also stretchable in the vertical direction and the oblique edge (4e) thereof extends toward both the lower part in the back side (44) and the upper part in the back side (43). The strap (5) is attached along the full length of the oblique edge.

Description

カップ部を有する衣類Clothing with cup
 本発明は、衣類、特にカップ部を有する衣類に関するものである。 The present invention relates to clothing, particularly clothing having a cup portion.
 ブラジャー等のカップ部を有する衣類においては、着用者の腋から背中にかけてバック布が位置する。このバック布によって、着用者の特に腋部分でのサポート感を高め、かつ皮膚の盛り上がりによる段差をできるだけ生じないようにすることが望まれている。従来においては、サポート感を高めるために、バック布の上下に伸縮性の強いテープを取り付けることがなされてきた。しかし、伸縮性の強いテープを取り付けた場合、そのテープが皮膚に食い込んでその上下において着用者の腋部での段差を生じてしまう。そのため、特許文献1においては、バック布の上下縁のテープを無くし、上下における伸縮パワーを小さくするとともに、中央部の伸縮パワーを大きくして、段差を生じ難くする工夫がされている。また、バック布の上下の領域を伸縮パワーが異なるように編成し、皮膚からのずれの発生を防止する技術が、特許文献2に開示されている。 In clothing with a cup part such as a brassiere, the back cloth is located from the wearer's heel to the back. It is desired that this back cloth enhances the wearer's feeling of support, particularly at the heel, and prevents a step due to skin swell as much as possible. In the past, in order to enhance the feeling of support, a highly stretchable tape has been attached to the top and bottom of the back cloth. However, when a highly stretchable tape is attached, the tape bites into the skin and causes a step at the wearer's buttocks above and below the tape. Therefore, in patent document 1, while eliminating the tape of the upper and lower edges of a back cloth, making the expansion power in the upper and lower sides small, and making the expansion power in the center part large, the device which makes it difficult to produce a level difference is made. Further, Patent Document 2 discloses a technique for knitting the upper and lower regions of the back cloth so that the expansion and contraction powers are different and preventing the occurrence of deviation from the skin.
特開2002-235209号公報JP 2002-235209 A 実開平7-28921号公報Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 7-28921
 しかし、特許文献1に記載の技術においては、着用時にバック布の部分でのサポート感が乏しくなることがあり、特に、バック布を細幅にした場合にその傾向が大きい。また、特許文献2に記載の技術も、バック布の上下において、伸縮パワーを異ならせているが、これは伸縮パワーの強い箇所が皮膚とともに移動することでずれることを防止するためのもので、サポート感の向上や段差解消を行うものでも、特許文献1の問題を解消するものでもない。そして、特許文献1、2の技術は、いずれも、伸縮パワーの強い箇所がバック布の前後方向に渡っていることから、それぞれの目的を達成するために、伸縮パワーを十分に強くすると、着用者は全体に渡ってきつい圧迫されるような着用感を持つことになる。 However, in the technique described in Patent Document 1, the feeling of support at the portion of the back cloth may be poor when worn, and this tendency is particularly great when the back cloth is made narrow. In addition, the technology described in Patent Document 2 also has different stretching powers at the top and bottom of the back cloth, but this is for preventing the location where the stretching power is strong from moving with the skin, It does not improve the feeling of support or eliminate the level difference, nor does it solve the problem of Patent Document 1. And since both the techniques of patent documents 1 and 2 have strong stretch power in the front-rear direction of the back cloth, if the stretch power is sufficiently strong to achieve each purpose, The person has a feeling of wearing that is squeezed all over.
 本発明は、これらの問題点を解決するためになされたもので、バック布を前後、上下方向に区分して、それぞれの箇所の機能に合わせて伸縮パワーを設定し、全体として、造形性、補整機能に優れ、段差も生じ難く、かつ着用感のよいブラジャー等のカップ部を有する衣類を提供することを目的とする。 The present invention was made to solve these problems, dividing the back cloth in the front-rear and up-down directions, and setting the expansion and contraction power according to the function of each part, as a whole, the formability, An object of the present invention is to provide a garment having a cup portion such as a brassiere that is excellent in a compensation function, hardly causes a step, and has a good wearing feeling.
 本発明に係るカップ部を有する衣類は、カップ部と、カップ部の脇側からバック側に延びるバック布と、肩紐とを少なくとも備える衣類において、バック布は、伸縮性の布であって、上縁、上縁より長い下縁、前縁、前縁より短い後縁、及び上縁後端と後縁上端とを結ぶ斜め状の縁とを有するとともに、前後方向の伸縮パワーの強弱によって、少なくとも4つの部分に区分され、前側上部の部分が最も伸縮パワーが大きく、次いで、前側下部、後側上部、後側下部の順に伸縮パワーが段階的に小さくされており、さらに、バック布は、上下方向にも伸縮性を有しており、かつ斜め状の縁は、後側下部と後側上部の両方に渡って延びており、その全長に沿って肩紐が取り付けられていることを特徴とする。 A garment having a cup part according to the present invention is a garment comprising at least a cup part, a back cloth extending from the side of the cup part to the back side, and a shoulder strap, the back cloth is an elastic cloth, It has an upper edge, a lower edge longer than the upper edge, a front edge, a rear edge shorter than the front edge, and an oblique edge connecting the rear edge of the upper edge and the upper edge of the rear edge. It is divided into at least four parts, the front upper part has the largest expansion power, then the front lower part, the rear upper part, the rear lower part in order of the expansion power, and the back cloth is It also has elasticity in the vertical direction, and the slanted edge extends over both the lower rear side and the upper rear side, and the shoulder strap is attached along the entire length And
 本発明によれば、着用時に腋の部分に位置することになるバック布の前側の伸縮パワーを強くすることで、腋部分の造形性、補整機能を高めている。そして、バック布の前側であっても、特に、上部が造形性に寄与し、かつ上部の緊締力が強いとサポート感を伴うことから、前側上部を最も強くし、前側下部をそれに次いで伸縮パワーを強く設定している。また、前側下部までを前側上部と同じように強くすると、局所的な圧迫感も強くなる上に、腋部を補整し造形性を高めるために強く抑える必要のある前側上部が相対的に弱くなり、十分な機能を果たせない。そのため、前側下部は、前側上部よりは伸縮パワーを多少弱く設定している。
また、前側上部と後側上部との関係においても、サポート感を十分に感じるような着用感を増すためには、上部の伸縮パワーの強いことが望ましいが、後側上部まで前側上部と同じほどに強力にすると、強い圧迫感を生じて却って着用感が低下する。そのため、後側上部は、3番目の強さの伸縮パワーとしている。ここで、後側上部の伸縮パワーを前側下部よりも小さくしたことは、後側は補整が特に必要な腋の造形性に寄与することが前側よりも小さいことから、伸縮パワーも小さくてよいためである。また、後側上部の伸縮パワーを後側下部よりも大きくしたことは、前記のとおり、上部を強くすることでサポート感が伴うためであるが、さらに、上部が位置する人体の部分は下部に比べて脂肪が多いことから、強く抑える必要があることにもよる。
According to the present invention, by enhancing the expansion and contraction power on the front side of the back cloth, which is positioned at the heel portion when worn, the shapeability and the compensation function of the heel portion are enhanced. And even on the front side of the back fabric, the upper part contributes to the formability, and the upper part has a feeling of support, so the front upper part is the strongest, and the front lower part is the elastic power. Is set strongly. In addition, if the front lower part is strengthened in the same way as the front upper part, the feeling of local pressure is also strengthened, and the front upper part that needs to be strongly suppressed in order to correct the buttocks and improve the formability becomes relatively weak. Can't perform enough. For this reason, the lower part of the front side is set to be slightly weaker than the upper part of the front side.
Also, in relation to the front upper part and the rear upper part, in order to increase the feeling of wearing that gives a sufficient feeling of support, it is desirable that the upper stretch power is strong, but the rear upper part is about the same as the front upper part. If it is made strong, a strong feeling of pressure is produced and the feeling of wearing is reduced. For this reason, the rear upper part has a third-strength expansion / contraction power. Here, the expansion power of the rear upper part is made smaller than that of the front lower part, because the rear side contributes to the shapeability of the eyelids that need to be particularly corrected, and the expansion power may be small. It is. In addition, the expansion power of the rear upper part is made larger than that of the lower part of the rear part, as mentioned above, because the support part is accompanied by strengthening the upper part. Depending on the fact that there is a lot of fat, it is necessary to suppress strongly.
 また、バック布は、全体として、上縁、上縁より長い下縁、前縁、前縁より短い後縁、及び上縁後端と後縁上端とを結び肩紐がそれに沿って取り付けられる斜め状の縁によって囲まれる外形をなしている。このような外形のバック布は、バック側になるにつれて徐々に細くなり、その細幅の上辺一箇所に肩紐の端部が取り付けられる一般的なバック布形状に対して、上縁と下縁が前後方向で重複する範囲で上下方向幅を十分な広幅に形成でき、また上記のような少なくとも4つの領域に区分するのに適した形状になる。そのため、上部の伸縮パワー、特に前側上部の伸縮パワーを強くしても、局部的な圧迫感を生じることなく、また人体表面の段差も生じ難い。さらに、十分なサポート感も得ることができる。そして、上縁後端と後縁上端とを結ぶ斜め状の縁には、その全長に沿って肩紐が取り付けられており、着用者が肩を動かす運動をしたような場合、肩紐が伸縮して移動することになる。その際、肩紐が取り付けられている箇所のバック布は、前後方向のみでなく上下方向にも伸縮性を有していることから、上下方向や場合によっては斜め方向における肩紐の移動や伸縮を吸収して、バック布が位置ずれすることを防止できる。肩紐がそれに沿った状態で取り付けられている後側でも、特に肩紐の端部が取り付けられる後側下部は伸縮パワーが弱くされていることから、人体表面に対する拘束力が弱くて伸縮もし易く、十分に肩紐の移動、伸縮を吸収できる。 In addition, the back cloth generally has an upper edge, a lower edge that is longer than the upper edge, a front edge, a rear edge that is shorter than the front edge, and a slant that connects the upper edge rear end and the rear edge upper end along the shoulder strap. The outer shape is surrounded by an edge. The back cloth of such an outer shape gradually becomes thinner as it goes to the back side, and the upper edge and lower edge of the general back cloth shape in which the end of the shoulder strap is attached to one place on the upper side of the narrow width. Can be formed with a sufficient width in the vertical direction within a range overlapping in the front-rear direction, and has a shape suitable for being divided into at least four regions as described above. For this reason, even if the upper extension power, particularly the front upper extension power, is increased, local pressure does not occur, and a step on the human body surface hardly occurs. Furthermore, a sufficient support feeling can be obtained. A shoulder strap is attached along the entire length of the slanted edge connecting the rear edge of the upper edge and the upper edge of the rear edge. When the wearer moves the shoulder, the shoulder strap expands and contracts. And will move. At that time, the back cloth at the place where the shoulder strap is attached has elasticity in the vertical direction as well as in the front-rear direction. It is possible to prevent the back cloth from being displaced. Even at the rear side where the shoulder strap is attached along the shoulder strap, the lower part of the rear side where the end of the shoulder strap is attached is weakened in the expansion and contraction power. Can fully absorb the movement and expansion / contraction of the shoulder strap.
 また、本発明において、上縁をヘム仕様とすれば、伸縮性の強い細幅のテープを取り付けて上縁を縫合するような端始末を行う必要がないことから、テープによる段差も生じずに、段差が生じやすい上縁付近の段差発生を一層解消できる。 In the present invention, if the upper edge is a hem specification, it is not necessary to perform end cleaning such as attaching a highly stretchable narrow tape and sewing the upper edge, so that there is no step due to the tape. Further, it is possible to further eliminate the occurrence of a step near the upper edge where a step is likely to occur.
 また、本発明において、上縁と下縁とが前後方向において重複する範囲における前端での上縁と下縁との間の距離x1と、後端での上縁と下縁との間の距離x2とは、x1がx2に対して2~10%だけ長いものとすれば、上縁と下縁が前後方向で重複する範囲における幅の長さの変化が少ないものとなり、さらに、十分幅が広く4つの領域に区分するのに適したバック布の形状とすることができる。そのため、前記のとおりの本発明のバック布部による作用効果が一層達成できる。 In the present invention, the distance x1 between the upper edge and the lower edge at the front end and the distance between the upper edge and the lower edge at the rear end in a range where the upper edge and the lower edge overlap in the front-rear direction. If x1 is 2 to 10% longer than x2, x2 has little change in the width in the range where the upper edge and the lower edge overlap in the front-rear direction. The shape of the back cloth can be appropriately divided into four regions. Therefore, the effect by the back | bag cloth part of this invention as mentioned above can be achieved further.
 また、本発明において、前記各前側部と前記各後側部との境界をなす上下方向に伸びるパワー切り替え線が、着用者の後腋窩線近傍に位置すれば、最も伸縮パワーの強い前側上部とそれに次ぐパワーの前側下部が、前腋窩線と後腋窩線の間をカバーすることになる。この部分は、人体において皮膚の伸縮が激しくかつ脂肪も多いところであって、補整、造形のためにしっかりと抑えたい箇所であることから、伸縮パワーの強い箇所を対応させることで、造形性、着用感の一層の向上が達成される。 Further, in the present invention, if the power switching line extending in the vertical direction that forms the boundary between each front side part and each rear side part is located in the vicinity of the wearer's rear axillary line, The next lower front part of the power covers between the anterior and posterior axillary lines. This part is a place where the skin stretches and fats a lot in the human body, and because it is a place that you want to hold down firmly for correction and modeling, by making the part with strong stretching power compatible, A further improvement in feeling is achieved.
 また、本発明において、前側上部と前側下部の間に、前側上部の伸縮パワーよりも小さく前側下部の伸縮パワーよりも大きい伸縮パワーを有する前側中部と、後側上部と後側下部の間に、後側上部の伸縮パワーよりも小さく後側下部の伸縮パワーよりも大きい伸縮パワーを有する後側中部とを、さらに設けた場合、伸縮パワーによる区分が、上下方向に3段階になっていることから、バック布部での更なるスムージング化を図る、すなわち、上下方向に2段階の場合よりもさらにバック布部でのシルエットを美しくすることができる。 Further, in the present invention, between the front upper part and the front lower part, between the front middle part having the expansion power smaller than the front upper elastic power and larger than the front lower power, between the rear upper part and the rear lower part, When a rear middle portion having a telescopic power smaller than that of the rear upper portion and larger than that of the lower rear portion is further provided, the division by the telescopic power has three stages in the vertical direction. Further smoothing can be achieved at the back cloth portion, that is, the silhouette at the back cloth portion can be made more beautiful than in the case of two stages in the vertical direction.
 本発明によれば、バック布を前後、上下方向に区分して、それぞれの箇所の機能に合わせて伸縮パワーを設定し、全体として、造形性、補整機能に優れ、段差も生じ難く、かつ着用感のよいブラジャー等のカップ部を有する衣類を提供することができる。 According to the present invention, the back cloth is divided into the front and rear and up and down directions, and the expansion and contraction power is set according to the function of each part. A garment having a cup portion such as a brassiere can be provided.
本発明の実施形態のブラジャーの斜視図である。It is a perspective view of the brassiere of the embodiment of the present invention. 本発明の実施形態のブラジャーを裏から見た図である。It is the figure which looked at the brassiere of the embodiment of the present invention from the back. 本発明の実施形態のバック布の説明のための平面図である。It is a top view for explanation of a back cloth of an embodiment of the present invention. 本発明の実施形態のバック布を作製するための布地の説明図である。It is explanatory drawing of the fabric for producing the back | bag cloth of embodiment of this invention. 本発明の他の実施形態のバック布の説明のための平面図である。It is a top view for explanation of back cloth of other embodiments of the present invention. 本発明の実施形態のブラジャーと各試作品についてモニターによる着用評価を行った結果である。It is the result of having performed the wear evaluation by the monitor about the brassiere and each prototype of embodiment of this invention.
 以下、図面に基づいて、本発明によるカップ部を有する衣類の好適な実施形態について詳細に説明する。図1は、本発明におけるカップ部を有する衣類としてのブラジャー1を前方から見た斜視図である。また、図2は、ブラジャー2を裏側から見た図である。カップ部2は、その脇から下部にかけて、非伸縮性の土台布3が縫着され、それによって支持されている。カップ部2と土台布3との境界には、裏側において、細幅のテープ7が縫着されており、その内部にはカップワイヤ(図示せず)が装入されている。土台布3の脇端部には伸縮性のバック布4が縫着されている。土台布3とバック布4との境界には、裏側において、細幅のテープ9が縫着されており、その内部には、合成樹脂製の補強材であるボーン(図示せず)が装入されている。土台布3からバック布4の裏側下端部には、伸縮性の細幅テープ8が縫着されている。また、バック布4の後端縁には、ホック取り付け布6が縫着されている。 Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of a garment having a cup portion according to the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a brassiere 1 as a garment having a cup portion according to the present invention as seen from the front. Moreover, FIG. 2 is the figure which looked at the brassiere 2 from the back side. A non-stretchable base cloth 3 is sewn from the side to the bottom of the cup portion 2 and is supported thereby. A narrow tape 7 is sewn to the boundary between the cup portion 2 and the base cloth 3 on the back side, and a cup wire (not shown) is inserted therein. A stretchable back cloth 4 is sewn to the side edges of the base cloth 3. A narrow tape 9 is sewn on the back side at the boundary between the base cloth 3 and the back cloth 4, and a bone (not shown), which is a synthetic resin reinforcing material, is inserted in the inside. Has been. A stretchable narrow-width tape 8 is sewn from the base cloth 3 to the lower end of the back side of the back cloth 4. A hook attachment cloth 6 is sewn on the rear edge of the back cloth 4.
 バック布4は、図1、2に示すとともに、図3に拡大した平面図で示す。なお、バック布4は、左右に2つあるが、左右対称であるために、一方のみを説明する。また、カップ部2に近い方すなわち図1~3における左方を前、バック側すなわち図1~3における右方を後として説明する。バック布4は、上縁4a、上縁より長い下縁4b、前縁4c、前縁より短い後縁4d、及び上縁4aの後端と後縁4dの上端とを結ぶ斜め状の縁4eとによって囲まれる形状をしている。この斜め状の縁4eは、わずかに下に凸の曲線をなしており、この斜め状の縁4eの全長に沿って強い伸縮力を有する伸縮性の肩紐5が縫着されている。また、バック布4は、上下方向にも伸縮性を有している。また、上縁4aは、端始末が不要なヘム仕様とされており、直線状をなしている。また、下縁4bは、わずかに上に凸の曲線をなしている。 The back cloth 4 is shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 and an enlarged plan view in FIG. Although there are two back cloths 4 on the left and right, only one of them will be described because it is symmetrical. Further, the description will be made with the side closer to the cup portion 2, that is, the left side in FIGS. 1 to 3, as the front, and the back side, that is, the right side in FIGS. The back cloth 4 has an upper edge 4a, a lower edge 4b longer than the upper edge, a front edge 4c, a rear edge 4d shorter than the front edge, and an oblique edge 4e connecting the rear edge of the upper edge 4a and the upper edge of the rear edge 4d. The shape is surrounded by. The slanted edge 4e has a slightly convex curve, and a stretchable shoulder strap 5 having a strong stretch force is sewn along the entire length of the slanted edge 4e. In addition, the back cloth 4 has elasticity in the vertical direction. Further, the upper edge 4a has a hem specification that does not require any cleanup and has a linear shape. The lower edge 4b has a slightly convex curve.
 一般的なブラジャーでは、バック布はカップ側端部(前端)からバック側の端部(後端)に渡ってテーパ状に次第に細くなり、その途中に肩紐の端部が取り付けられている。それに対して、本実施形態のバック布4では、前記のとおりの上縁4a、下縁4b、前縁4c、後縁4d及び肩紐5がそれに沿って取り付けられる斜め状の縁4eにより囲まれる形状をなしており、上縁4aと下縁4bが前後方向で重複する間は、4つの領域に区分しさらに広幅とするのに適した形状となる。この上縁4aと下縁4bとが重複する範囲での上縁4aと下縁4bとの間の幅は大きく変わることない。すなわち、図3において、前記重複範囲での前端の幅となる、上縁4aから下縁4bの前端に垂直に下ろした距離x1と、後端での幅となる、上縁4aの後端から下縁4bに垂直に下ろした距離x2との比を取った場合、x1がx2に対して2~10%長い範囲、すなわち、x1がx2の1.02~1.1の範囲であることが好ましい。また、具体的な長さでいうと、x2が75~105mmの範囲内の長さであり、x1はその1.02~1.1の長さであることが好ましい。本実施形態では、このような広幅とされるバック布4を、前後方向の伸縮パワーの強弱によって4つの部分に区分している。 In a general brassiere, the back cloth is gradually tapered from the cup side end (front end) to the back side end (rear end), and the end of the shoulder strap is attached in the middle. On the other hand, in the back cloth 4 of this embodiment, the upper edge 4a, the lower edge 4b, the front edge 4c, the rear edge 4d, and the shoulder strap 5 as described above are surrounded by the oblique edge 4e attached along the upper edge 4a. It has a shape, and while the upper edge 4a and the lower edge 4b overlap in the front-rear direction, it becomes a shape suitable for being further divided into four regions. In the range where the upper edge 4a and the lower edge 4b overlap, the width between the upper edge 4a and the lower edge 4b does not change greatly. That is, in FIG. 3, the distance x1 vertically dropped from the upper edge 4a to the front edge of the lower edge 4b, which is the width of the front edge in the overlapping range, and the rear edge of the upper edge 4a, which is the width at the rear edge. When a ratio with the distance x2 lowered perpendicularly to the lower edge 4b is taken, x1 is in a range 2 to 10% longer than x2, that is, x1 is in a range of 1.02 to 1.1 of x2. preferable. In terms of a specific length, x2 is preferably in the range of 75 to 105 mm, and x1 is preferably 1.02 to 1.1 in length. In the present embodiment, such a wide back cloth 4 is divided into four parts according to the strength of the stretching power in the front-rear direction.
 図のように、バック布4は、上下方向に延びる直線状のパワー切り替え線L1と前後方向に延びる直線状のパワー切り替え線L2とによって4区分されている。そして、前側上部41が最も前後方向の伸縮パワーが大きく、次いで、前側下部42、後側上部43、後側下部44の順に伸縮パワーが段階的に小さくされている。バック布4に伸縮パワーの差を設けるには、図4に示すように、図における左右方向の伸縮パワーが最も強い領域10Aから、10B、10C、10Dと順次弱くなる4つの領域が形成される布地10から、バック布4をそれぞれの区分41~44に対応させて裁断して切り抜けばよい。そして、布地10に伸縮パワーの強弱をつけることは、弾性力の異なる糸、例えば太さの異なるポリウレタン糸によって各領域を編成すること、挿入する弾性糸の本数を各領域によって異ならせること、伸縮パワーの異なる編組織をそれぞれの領域で編成すること等によりおこなえばよい。また、場合によっては、伸縮パワーの異なる布地を接いでバック布4を形成することも可能である。 As shown in the figure, the back cloth 4 is divided into four sections by a linear power switching line L1 extending in the vertical direction and a linear power switching line L2 extending in the front-rear direction. The front upper portion 41 has the largest expansion / contraction power in the front-rear direction, and then the expansion / contraction power is gradually reduced in the order of the front lower portion 42, the rear upper portion 43, and the rear lower portion 44. In order to provide the back cloth 4 with a difference in expansion / contraction power, as shown in FIG. 4, four areas where the expansion / contraction power in the left-right direction in the figure is the strongest are gradually reduced from 10A to 10B, 10C, and 10D. The back cloth 4 may be cut from the cloth 10 so as to correspond to the respective sections 41 to 44 and cut out. And applying the strength of the expansion / contraction power to the fabric 10 includes knitting each region with yarns having different elastic forces, for example, polyurethane yarns having different thicknesses, making the number of elastic yarns to be inserted different depending on each region, It may be performed by knitting knitting structures having different powers in each region. Moreover, depending on the case, it is also possible to form the back | bag cloth 4 in contact with the cloth from which expansion-contraction power differs.
 ここで、本実施形態のバック布4を伸縮パワーの強弱で4つに区分けした理由は次のとおりである。ブラジャー1の着用時には、前側上部41及び前側下部42が着用者の腋に位置する。特に、本実施形態では、バック布4を前後に区分するパワー切り替え線L1は、人体の後腋窩線近傍に位置するようにしている。具体的には、着用時における、パワー切り替え線L1は、着用者の後腋窩線の前後にそれぞれ上縁4aの長さの10%の範囲内に位置するようにしている。これは、パワー切り替え線L1の位置は、後腋窩線から、多少前後しても効果が極端に低下することはなく、また、体型には個人差があるため、全ての人の後腋窩線に一致する位置にパワー切り替え線L1を設けることは不可能であり、標準的な体型の場合に後腋窩線と一致するよう設計すると、大多数の体型の場合、前記範囲内に位置するということに起因している。この範囲内に位置することによって、バック布4の前側上部41,前側下部42が、皮膚の伸縮が激しく脂肪も多くて、補整、造形のために強力に抑える必要のある前腋窩線と後腋窩線の間をカバーすることになる。そのため、これら前側上部と前側下部の伸縮パワーを強くして腋部分を補整、造形する効果を高めている。また、前側部分であっても、上部の方が下部に比べて、対応する人体の脂肪も多く、伸縮パワーを強くすれば補整、造形の効果も大きい。また、上部を強くすることで、バック布4による十分なサポート感が得られる。ここで、前側下部42を前側上部41と同じほどに強い伸縮パワーに設定すると、局所的な圧迫感も強くなる上に、腋部を補整し造形性を高めるために強く抑える必要のある前側上部41が相対的に弱くなり、十分な機能を果たせない。そのため、前側下部42は、前側上部41よりは弱いパワーとしている。 Here, the reason why the back cloth 4 of this embodiment is divided into four according to the strength of the expansion and contraction power is as follows. When the brassiere 1 is worn, the front upper part 41 and the front lower part 42 are located on the wearer's heel. In particular, in the present embodiment, the power switching line L1 that divides the back cloth 4 forward and backward is positioned near the rear axilla line of the human body. Specifically, at the time of wearing, the power switching line L1 is positioned within a range of 10% of the length of the upper edge 4a before and after the rear axillary line of the wearer. This is because the effect of the position of the power switching line L1 from the rear axillary line does not decrease drastically even if it is slightly different from the rear axillary line. It is impossible to provide the power switching line L1 at the coincident position, and if it is designed to coincide with the rear axilla line in the case of a standard body shape, it is located within the above range in the case of the majority of body shapes. Is attributed. By being located within this range, the front upper part 41 and the front lower part 42 of the back cloth 4 have a large amount of skin stretch and fat, and the anterior axillary line and the rear axilla that need to be strongly suppressed for correction and shaping It will cover between the lines. Therefore, the expansion power of these front upper part and front lower part is strengthened to enhance the effect of correcting and shaping the heel part. Even in the front part, the upper part has more fat corresponding to the human body than the lower part, and if the expansion and contraction power is increased, the effects of correction and modeling are great. Moreover, sufficient support feeling by the back cloth 4 is obtained by strengthening the upper part. Here, if the front lower part 42 is set to a strong expansion / contraction power as much as the front upper part 41, the local upper part also has a strong feeling of pressure, and the front upper part that needs to be strongly suppressed in order to correct the buttocks and improve the formability. 41 becomes relatively weak and cannot function sufficiently. Therefore, the front lower part 42 has a weaker power than the front upper part 41.
 また、前側に限らず後側においても、上部の伸縮パワーを強くすることで、バック布4の全体として、サポート感に影響の大きい上部がしっかりと緊締されて、サポート感が増す。そのために、後側上部43の伸縮パワーを後側下部44よりも大きくしている。しかし、後側上部43まで前側上部41と同じほどに強力にすると、全体として緊縮力が大きくなって、強い圧迫感を生じ、却って着用感が低下する。また、後側上部43と後側下部42の関係では、後側上部43は、前側下部42に比べて造形性に寄与することは少ないことから、3番目の強さとしている。ここで、本実施形態におけるバック布4は、前記のように広幅となる形状であることから、前側、後側に渡って上部の伸縮パワーを下部よりも強くした場合、サポート感が一層向上し、さらに、特に前側上部41の最も強いパワーの部分において、補整、造形性が高められるとともに人体表面の段差も生じ難くなっている。また、後側上部43の伸縮パワーを後側下部44よりも大きくすることで、サポート感を高めることができているが、さらに、後側上部が位置する着用者の部分は後側下部に比べて脂肪が多いことから、強く抑える必要があることにもよる。 Also, not only on the front side, but also on the rear side, by strengthening the expansion and contraction power of the upper part, the upper part of the back cloth 4 as a whole is firmly tightened at the upper part, which has a great influence on the feeling of support, and the feeling of support increases. Therefore, the expansion / contraction power of the rear upper part 43 is made larger than that of the rear lower part 44. However, if the rear upper part 43 is made as strong as the front upper part 41, the overall contraction force is increased, and a strong feeling of pressure is generated, and the wearing feeling is lowered. Further, in the relationship between the rear upper portion 43 and the rear lower portion 42, the rear upper portion 43 has the third strength because it contributes less to the formability than the front lower portion 42. Here, since the back cloth 4 in the present embodiment has a wide shape as described above, the feeling of support is further improved when the upper extension power is made stronger than the lower part over the front side and the rear side. Furthermore, particularly in the strongest power portion of the front upper portion 41, the correction and modeling are improved, and a step on the human body surface is hardly generated. Moreover, although the feeling of support can be improved by making the expansion / contraction power of the rear upper part 43 larger than the rear lower part 44, the part of the wearer where the rear upper part is located is further compared with the rear lower part. It depends on the fact that it is fat and needs to be strongly suppressed.
 さらに、バック布4の上縁4aの後端と後縁4dの上端とを結ぶ斜め状の縁4eは、後側下部44から後側上部43に渡って形成されており、その全長に沿って肩紐5が取り付けられている。そして、これらの後側上部43と後側下部44は、上下方向にも伸縮性を有している。そのため、着用者が肩を動かす運動をしたような場合、肩紐5が伸縮し移動することになる。その際、バック布4の後側上部43と後側下部44は、前後方向のみならずに上下方向にも伸縮性を有していることから、いずれの方向にも肩紐5の移動や伸縮を吸収して、バック布4の位置がずれることを防止できる。特に、肩紐5が沿った状態で取り付けられている後側、特に肩紐5の端部が取り付けられている後側下部44は伸縮パワーが最も弱くされていることから、人体表面に対する拘束力が弱くて伸縮し易く、十分に肩紐5の移動、伸縮を吸収できる。なお、本実施形態においては、前側上部41及び前側下部42においても、後側上部43及び後側下部44よりは伸度は小さいものの、やはり上下方向にも伸縮性を備えていて、人体表面の皮膚の上下方向への移動を吸収することができる。 Furthermore, an oblique edge 4e connecting the rear end of the upper edge 4a of the back cloth 4 and the upper end of the rear edge 4d is formed from the rear lower part 44 to the rear upper part 43, and along its entire length. A shoulder strap 5 is attached. The rear upper portion 43 and the rear lower portion 44 are also stretchable in the vertical direction. Therefore, when the wearer moves the shoulder, the shoulder strap 5 expands and contracts. At that time, the rear upper portion 43 and the rear lower portion 44 of the back cloth 4 have elasticity in the vertical direction as well as in the front-rear direction. The position of the back cloth 4 can be prevented from shifting. In particular, the rear side to which the shoulder strap 5 is attached, particularly the rear lower portion 44 to which the end portion of the shoulder strap 5 is attached has the weakest expansion / contraction power. Is weak and easily stretchable and can sufficiently absorb the movement and expansion / contraction of the shoulder strap 5. In the present embodiment, the front upper portion 41 and the front lower portion 42 are also less stretchable than the rear upper portion 43 and the rear lower portion 44, but are also elastic in the vertical direction, so It can absorb the up and down movement of the skin.
 また、本実施形態においては、バック布4の上縁4aはヘム仕様としていることから、細幅の伸縮テープを取り付けて上縁を縫合するような端始末を行う必要がない。そのため、細幅の伸縮テープによる人体表面の段差を生じることもなく、段差が生じやすいバック布4の上縁4a付近の段差が一層解消できる。 Further, in the present embodiment, the upper edge 4a of the back cloth 4 has a hem specification, and therefore it is not necessary to clean up the end edge by attaching a narrow elastic tape and sewing the upper edge. Therefore, there is no step on the human body surface due to the narrow elastic tape, and the step near the upper edge 4a of the back cloth 4 where the step is likely to occur can be further eliminated.
 また、本実施形態においては、バック布4の下縁4bは上に凸の曲線とされている。バック布4が位置する人体は、一般に上部が下部より周長が大であって、上下方向には傾斜状を呈しており、長さの長い下縁4bが直線状であると、人体の周囲に合致しない。そのため、下縁4bを上に凸の曲線として、傾斜を伴う人体周囲に着用した時に適合するようにしている。 In the present embodiment, the lower edge 4b of the back cloth 4 is an upwardly convex curve. The human body on which the back cloth 4 is located generally has an upper portion that is larger in circumference than the lower portion, is inclined in the vertical direction, and the long lower edge 4b is linear, Does not match. Therefore, the lower edge 4b is curved upward so that it fits when worn around a human body with an inclination.
 また、他の実施形態として、図5に示すように、バック布4を前後方向の伸縮パワーによって、6つの部分に区分してもよい。すなわち、前側上部41と前側下部42の間に、前側上部41の伸縮パワーよりも小さく前側下部42の伸縮パワーよりも大きい伸縮パワーを有する前側中部45と、後側上部43と後側下部44の間に、後側上部43の伸縮パワーよりも小さく後側下部44の伸縮パワーよりも大きい伸縮パワーを有する後側中部46とを、さらに設ける。これによって、伸縮パワーが、前側上部41、前側中部45、前側下部42、後側上部43、後側中部46、後側下部44の順に小さくなる6つの部分に区分される。そのため、前後方向に延びる直線状のパワー切り替え線L2が、L2-1とL2-2の2本となるが、それ以外の上下方向のパワー切り替え線L1の位置や、x1とx2の好ましい比などは、図4までの実施形態で述べたと同様である。この実施形態のように、6つに区分した場合、伸縮パワーによる区分が、上下方向に3段階になっていることから、4つの区分の実施形態の場合よりも、バック布4の部分での更なるスムージング化を図ることができる。すなわち、バック布部でのシルエットをさらに美しくすることができる。 As another embodiment, as shown in FIG. 5, the back cloth 4 may be divided into six parts according to the stretching power in the front-rear direction. That is, between the front upper part 41 and the front lower part 42, the front middle part 45 having an elastic power that is smaller than the elastic power of the front upper part 41 and larger than the elastic power of the front lower part 42, and the rear upper part 43 and the rear lower part 44. There is further provided a rear middle portion 46 having a telescopic power that is smaller than the telescopic power of the rear upper portion 43 and larger than the telescopic power of the rear lower portion 44. As a result, the telescopic power is divided into six parts that become smaller in the order of the front upper part 41, the front middle part 45, the front lower part 42, the rear upper part 43, the rear middle part 46, and the rear lower part 44. Therefore, there are two linear power switching lines L2 extending in the front-rear direction, L2-1 and L2-2, but the positions of the other power switching lines L1 in the vertical direction, the preferred ratio of x1 and x2, etc. Is the same as that described in the embodiment up to FIG. As in this embodiment, when it is divided into six sections, the section based on the expansion and contraction power has three stages in the vertical direction, so in the back cloth 4 portion, compared to the case of the four section embodiment. Further smoothing can be achieved. That is, the silhouette at the back cloth part can be further enhanced.
 なお、各実施形態においては、バック布4の後端にホック取り付け布6が配置されるタイプとしたが、バック布4の後端どうしを一体に連結し、前側どうしをホックによって連結するフロントホックタイプのものであってもよい。また、カップワイヤやボーンの補強材がないものであってもよい。さらに、各実施形態においては、本発明の衣類をブラジャー1によって説明したが、ブラジャー以外でも、ブラスリップ、ブラキャミソール、ボディスーツ、カップ付きテディ、水着等のようにカップ部、バック布、肩紐を備える衣類であれば適用可能である。 In each of the embodiments, the hook attachment cloth 6 is disposed at the rear end of the back cloth 4. However, the front hook is configured such that the rear ends of the back cloth 4 are integrally connected and the front sides are connected by a hook. It may be of a type. In addition, there may be no cup wire or bone reinforcing material. Further, in each embodiment, the garment of the present invention has been described with the brassiere 1. However, other than the brassiere, a cup part, a back cloth, a shoulder strap such as a brass lip, a bra camisole, a body suit, a teddy with a cup, a swimsuit, etc. It is applicable if it is clothing provided with.
 図4のとおりのサテン地からなる布地10を、カールマイヤー製の経編み機RSE5ELによって編成した。このような経編み機であれば、緯方向(図面の上下方向)だけでなく、経方向(図面の左右方向)についても糸を切り替えてパワー切り替えを行うことができる。糸は、ナイロン糸とポリウレタン糸を混用した。パワー切り替え線L2で区分される、10B、10Dの2つを合わせた領域と、10A、10Cの2つを合わせた領域とは、挿入する弾性糸としてのポリウレタン糸において差を付けた。具体的には、10B、10Dの2つの領域では、310dtex(デシテックス)(280デニール)のポリウレタン糸を使用したのに対し、10A、10Cの2つ領域では、同じ310dtex(280デニール)のポリウレタン糸に加えて、235dtex(210デニール)のポリウレタン糸を間に挿入し、糸の太さ換算で、ポリウレタン糸を545dtex(490デニール)とした。一方、パワー切り替え線L1で区分される、10C、10Dの2つを合わせた領域と、10A、10Bの2つを合わせた領域とは、組織、ランナーなど編条件を変化させ、2つの特性の異なる領域を連続して編成することで、L1を境目に経方向、緯方向ともに伸度、パワーに極端な差が生じるようにした。なお、図5の実施形態の作製においては、パワー切り替え線L2-1とL2-2の間に中間部分として設けた前側中部45,後側中部46に対応する布地部分は、310dtex(280デニール)のポリウレタン糸に、1本おきに、235dtex(210デニール)のポリウレタン糸を挿入することで、中間的な伸縮パワーとする。 4 A fabric 10 made of satin as shown in FIG. 4 was knitted by a KARL MAYER warp knitting machine RSE5EL. With such a warp knitting machine, power can be switched by switching yarns not only in the weft direction (vertical direction in the drawing) but also in the warp direction (horizontal direction in the drawing). Nylon yarn and polyurethane yarn were mixed. The area obtained by combining the two 10B and 10D divided by the power switching line L2 and the area obtained by combining the two 10A and 10C are different in the polyurethane yarn as the elastic yarn to be inserted. Specifically, 310 dtex (280 denier) polyurethane yarn was used in the two regions of 10B and 10D, whereas the same 310 dtex (280 denier) polyurethane yarn was used in the two regions of 10A and 10C. In addition, 235 dtex (210 denier) polyurethane yarn was inserted in between, and the polyurethane yarn was 545 dtex (490 denier) in terms of yarn thickness. On the other hand, the area where the two 10C and 10D are divided by the power switching line L1 and the area where the two 10A and 10B are combined change the knitting conditions such as the structure and runner, and have two characteristics. By continuously knitting different areas, there was an extreme difference in the elongation and power in the longitudinal and weft directions at the boundary of L1. In the production of the embodiment of FIG. 5, the fabric portions corresponding to the front middle portion 45 and the rear middle portion 46 provided as intermediate portions between the power switching lines L2-1 and L2-2 are 310 dtex (280 denier). By inserting 235 dtex (210 denier) polyurethane yarn into every other polyurethane yarn, intermediate stretching power is obtained.
 各領域の経方向(図面左右方向)の伸度及び伸縮パワーの確認は次のとおりに行った。先ず、幅2cm、つかみ間隔10cmの試料により、荷重14.7N(ニュートン)(1.5kgf)における伸度を測定した。結果は、10A~10Dの順に、50%、43%、108%、132%であった。次に、伸縮パワーを計測したが、伸縮パワーは、荷重を増加する段階と減少する段階でヒステリシスを生じるため、次のように計測した。伸度40%に達するまでの荷重を最大荷重として、荷重を徐々に増加させながら最大荷重に達する前の伸度30%での荷重を、行きの荷重として測定し、最大荷重から減少させて伸度30%での荷重を帰りの荷重として測定した。そして、このような測定は回を重ねる毎に100%は回復せずに、値は変化するために、3回目の測定での行きの荷重と帰りの荷重を合計して、2で割った平均値を伸縮パワーとした。結果は、10A~10Dの順に次のとおりであった。かっこ内の初めの数値が行きの荷重、後の数値が帰りの荷重で、その平均値が伸縮パワーを表している。
10A:(492+353)/2=423cN(センチニュートン)、10B:(494+192)/2=343cN、10C:(272+249)/2=261cN、10D:(140+129)/2=135cN
また、本実施例においては、緯方向(図面上下方向)についても、各領域では伸縮性を有している。その伸縮性は、経方向と同様に、バック布の後側となる10C、10Dが、前側となる10A、10Bよりも伸縮性が大きくされている。
例えば、経方向と同様に、荷重14.7Nにおける伸度が、10Bにおいて56%、10Dにおいて84%である。また、その場合の経方向と同様の方法で測定した伸縮パワーは、次のとおりであった。
10B:(624+424)/2=524cN、10D:(208+129)/2=169cN
Confirmation of the elongation and expansion / contraction power in the warp direction (horizontal direction in the drawing) of each region was performed as follows. First, the elongation at a load of 14.7 N (Newton) (1.5 kgf) was measured with a sample having a width of 2 cm and a gripping interval of 10 cm. The results were 50%, 43%, 108%, and 132% in the order of 10A to 10D. Next, the expansion / contraction power was measured, but the expansion / contraction power was measured as follows because hysteresis occurred at the stage of increasing and decreasing the load. Measure the load at the elongation of 30% before reaching the maximum load while gradually increasing the load as the maximum load, the load until reaching the elongation of 40%, and increase the load by decreasing from the maximum load. The load at 30% was measured as the return load. And since such a measurement does not recover 100% every time it is repeated, and the value changes, the average load obtained by adding the outgoing load and the return load in the third measurement and dividing by 2 The value was taken as the expansion / contraction power. The results were as follows in the order of 10A to 10D. The first value in parentheses is the outgoing load, the latter value is the return load, and the average value represents the expansion / contraction power.
10A: (492 + 353) / 2 = 423 cN (centinewton), 10B: (494 + 192) / 2 = 343 cN, 10C: (272 + 249) / 2 = 261 cN, 10D: (140 + 129) / 2 = 135 cN
In this embodiment, each region also has elasticity in the weft direction (vertical direction in the drawing). Similar to the warp direction, the stretchability of 10C and 10D on the back side of the back cloth is larger than that of 10A and 10B on the front side.
For example, as in the warp direction, the elongation at a load of 14.7 N is 56% at 10B and 84% at 10D. Moreover, the expansion / contraction power measured by the method similar to the warp direction in that case was as follows.
10B: (624 + 424) / 2 = 524 cN, 10D: (208 + 129) / 2 = 169 cN
 このような布地10から、バック布4を図4のとおりに切り取り、実施形態で説明したとおりのブラジャーを作製した。また、対比のために、A試作品(バック布の41と43の上部を同じ強さにして、最もパワーを強くし、上部、前側下部、後側下部と順に弱くした3区分を有するもの。)、B試作品(A試作品と同じ3区分であるが、前側下部、上部、後側下部の順に弱くしたもの。)、C試作品(前側と後側の2区分として、前側を強くしたもの。)を試作し、本実施例と各試作品について、モニターによる着用評価を行った結果が図6のとおりである。なお、A~C試作品も公知のものではなく、あくまで対比のために試作したものである。 From the fabric 10, the back fabric 4 was cut as shown in FIG. 4 to produce a brassiere as described in the embodiment. For comparison, the A prototype (the upper part of the back cloth 41 and 43 has the same strength, the power is the strongest, and the upper part, the lower part on the front side, and the lower part on the rear side are weakened in order). ), B prototype (the same three sections as A prototype, but weakened in the order of lower front, upper, lower rear), C prototype (front and rear two sections strengthened) Fig. 6 shows the results of the evaluation of the wear on a monitor for this example and each prototype. Note that the A to C prototypes are not publicly known, and are prototypes for comparison.
 図6のとおり、本実施例においては、腋部の補整、造形性が優れ、段差も良好に解消し、着用感においてもサポート感も十分でかつ圧迫感も感じられなかった。それに対して、試作品Aにおいては、前側は本実施例と同様であることから造形性、段差解消については合格であるが、上部は前後が同様に強いことから、圧迫感を生じている。B試作品については、前側上部での伸縮パワーが前側下部よりも小さいことから、造形性、段差解消(特に造形性)が十分でなく、同じく上部のパワーが弱いためにサポート感に乏しく着用感に劣っている。また、C試作品においては、前側が上下においてパワーの差がなく、造形性、段差解消において劣るとともに、後側においても上下に差がないことから、サポート感が乏しく着用感が劣っている。 As shown in FIG. 6, in this example, the buttock compensation and the formability were excellent, the level difference was eliminated well, the feeling of support was sufficient and the feeling of pressure was not felt. On the other hand, in the prototype A, the front side is the same as that of the present embodiment, so that the formability and the level difference elimination are acceptable, but the upper part is similarly strong in the front and rear, so that a feeling of pressure is generated. For the prototype B, the elastic power at the front upper part is lower than the front lower part, so the formability and level difference elimination (particularly the formability) are not sufficient, and the upper part is also weak, so the support feeling is poor and the wearing feeling It is inferior to. Further, in the C prototype, the front side has no difference in power between the upper and lower sides, is inferior in formability and level difference, and the rear side also has no difference in the upper and lower sides. Therefore, the feeling of support is poor and the wearing feeling is inferior.
 1‥ブラジャー、2‥カップ部、3‥土台布、4‥バック布、41‥前側上部、42‥前側下部、43‥後側上部、44‥後側下部、45‥前側中部、46‥後側中部、4a‥上縁、4b‥下縁、4c‥前縁、4d‥後縁、4e‥斜め状の縁、5‥肩紐、6‥ホック取り付け布、7~9‥テープ、10‥布地。 DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1. Bra, 2 cup part, 3 base cloth, 4 back cloth, 41 front upper part, 42 front lower part, 43 rear upper part, 44 rear lower part, 45 front middle part, 46 rear part Middle part, 4a ... upper edge, 4b ... lower edge, 4c ... front edge, 4d ... rear edge, 4e ... oblique edge, 5 ... shoulder strap, 6 ... hook attachment cloth, 7-9 ... tape, 10 ... cloth.

Claims (5)

  1.  カップ部と、カップ部の脇側からバック側に延びるバック布と、肩紐とを少なくとも備える衣類において、
     前記バック布は、伸縮性の布であって、上縁、上縁より長い下縁、前縁、前縁より短い後縁、及び上縁後端と後縁上端とを結ぶ斜め状の縁とを有するとともに、
     前後方向の伸縮パワーの強弱によって、少なくとも4つの部分に区分され、前側上部の部分が最も伸縮パワーが大きく、次いで、前側下部、後側上部、後側下部の順に伸縮パワーが段階的に小さくされており、
     さらに、前記バック布は、上下方向にも伸縮性を有しており、かつ前記斜め状の縁は、前記後側下部と前記後側上部の両方に渡って延びており、その全長に沿って前記肩紐が取り付けられていることを特徴とするカップ部を有する衣類。
    In a garment comprising at least a cup part, a back cloth extending from the side of the cup part to the back side, and a shoulder strap,
    The back cloth is an elastic cloth, and includes an upper edge, a lower edge longer than the upper edge, a front edge, a rear edge shorter than the front edge, and an oblique edge connecting the upper edge rear end and the rear edge upper end. And having
    Depending on the strength of the front / rear stretching power, it is divided into at least four parts, and the front upper part has the largest stretching power, and then the stretching power is gradually reduced in the order of the front lower part, the rear upper part, and the rear lower part. And
    Further, the back cloth has elasticity in the vertical direction, and the slanted edge extends over both the rear lower part and the rear upper part, along its entire length. A garment having a cup portion to which the shoulder strap is attached.
  2.  前記上縁はヘム仕様とされていることを特徴とする請求項1に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 The garment having a cup portion according to claim 1, wherein the upper edge has a hem specification.
  3.  前記上縁と前記下縁とが前後方向において重複する範囲における前端での前記上縁と前記下縁との間の距離x1と、後端での前記上縁と前記下縁との間の距離x2とは、x1がx2に対して2~10%だけ長いことを特徴とする請求項1又は2に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 A distance x1 between the upper edge and the lower edge at the front end in a range where the upper edge and the lower edge overlap in the front-rear direction, and a distance between the upper edge and the lower edge at the rear end The clothing having a cup portion according to claim 1 or 2, wherein x2 is longer by 2 to 10% than x1.
  4.  前記各前側部と前記各後側部との境界をなす上下方向に伸びるパワー切り替え線が、着用者の後腋窩線近傍に位置することを特徴とする請求項1~3のいずれか1項に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。 The power switching line extending in the vertical direction that forms a boundary between each front side portion and each rear side portion is located in the vicinity of the wearer's rear axillary line. The clothing which has a cup part of description.
  5.  前記前側上部と前記前側下部の間に、前記前側上部の前記伸縮パワーよりも小さく前記前側下部の前記伸縮パワーよりも大きい伸縮パワーを有する前側中部と、
     前記後側上部と前記後側下部の間に、前記後側上部の前記伸縮パワーよりも小さく前記後側下部の前記伸縮パワーよりも大きい伸縮パワーを有する後側中部とを、さらに設けたことを特徴とする請求項1~4のいずれか1項に記載のカップ部を有する衣類。
    Between the front upper part and the front lower part, a front middle part having a telescopic power smaller than the telescopic power of the front upper part and larger than the elastic power of the front lower part,
    Between the rear upper part and the rear lower part, a rear middle part having a telescopic power that is smaller than the telescopic power of the rear upper part and larger than the elastic power of the rear lower part, is further provided. The garment having a cup part according to any one of claims 1 to 4.
PCT/JP2010/051607 2009-02-06 2010-02-04 Clothes with cup parts WO2010090255A1 (en)

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