WO2004081279A1 - Procede pour colorer un melange constitue d'au moins deux types de fibres differents - Google Patents

Procede pour colorer un melange constitue d'au moins deux types de fibres differents Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2004081279A1
WO2004081279A1 PCT/AT2004/000084 AT2004000084W WO2004081279A1 WO 2004081279 A1 WO2004081279 A1 WO 2004081279A1 AT 2004000084 W AT2004000084 W AT 2004000084W WO 2004081279 A1 WO2004081279 A1 WO 2004081279A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fibers
cationized
dye
cellulosic fibers
mixture
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/AT2004/000084
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jörg Schlangen
Marina Crnoja-Cosic
Christian Baumgartinger
Original Assignee
Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft filed Critical Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft
Priority to EP04719330A priority Critical patent/EP1601831A1/fr
Publication of WO2004081279A1 publication Critical patent/WO2004081279A1/fr
Priority to US11/218,364 priority patent/US20060085926A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/854—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres containing modified or unmodified fibres, i.e. containing the same type of fibres having different characteristics, e.g. twisted and not-twisted fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8223—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/828—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/829—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of cellulose and animalized fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/22—Effecting variation of dye affinity on textile material by chemical means that react with the fibre
    • D06P5/225—Aminalization of cellulose; introducing aminogroups into cellulose

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for dyeing a mixture of two or more different types of fibers and fiber mixtures.
  • the warp yarn must be warp dyed in the indigo dyeing process, i.e. no finished fabrics can be dyed.
  • the present invention has for its object to provide a method for dyeing a mixture of two or more different types of fibers with one or more dyes, with which these disadvantages can be overcome.
  • cationized cellulosic fibers can solve various problems in the manufacture of textile products with color effects or open up new possibilities, in particular: • Achieving color intensity differences (differential dyeing) between two fiber types (cationized cellulosic fiber and other, especially cellulosic fiber) when using only one dye
  • Cationized cellulose fibers are known per se. Fibers which contain the cationic groups incorporated are particularly preferred for use in the process according to the invention. Such fibers are produced by adding a cationizing agent which is stable in the production process in question to the spinning solution for producing the fiber or a precursor to the spinning solution.
  • cationized cellulose fibers have special dyeing properties that differ from non-cationized cellulose fibers.
  • Cationized viscose fibers are particularly preferred for use in the process according to the invention, i.e. Fibers made by the viscose process and bearing cationic groups.
  • the mixture contains a proportion of non-cationized cellulosic fibers.
  • the non-cationized cellulosic fibers can be selected from the group consisting of standard viscose fibers, modal fibers, lyocell fibers, cotton fibers and linen fibers.
  • Cationized cellulose fibers in particular cationized viscose fibers, are more strongly stained by direct dyes and reactive dyes than non-cationized cellulose fibers.
  • the achievable mixed color effect depends particularly strongly on the salt concentration used in the dyeing (less strongly on the pH and the temperature of the dyeing).
  • concentration of the dye in the liquor also plays a role, the greater the dye concentration, the smaller the difference in color depth between the fibers.
  • the mixed color effect is particularly pronounced at low salt concentrations of 3 to 5 g / 1.
  • higher salt concentrations up to 25 g / 1 on the other hand, almost the same color depths of the cationized and non-cationized cellulose fibers are achieved.
  • the mixed color effect is particularly pronounced at salt concentrations of up to 20 g / 1.
  • salt concentrations up to 20 g / 1.
  • salt concentrations up to 80 g / 1 almost the same color depths of the cationized and the non-cationized cellulose fiber are achieved.
  • the use of a fiber mixture containing cationized cellulose fibers and non-cationized cellulose fibers is particularly favorable.
  • wool dyes as dyes with which wool or polyamide can be dyed. These include acid dyes, metal complex dyes and acid reactive dyes. A metal complex dye is particularly preferably used as the wool dye.
  • the non-cationized cellulose fibers While in a mixture of cationized cellulose fibers and non-cationized cellulose fibers, the non-cationized cellulose fibers are practically not dyed by the wool dye, the cationized cellulose fibers are dyed by the wool dye.
  • the non-cationized cellulose fibers are dyed by the second dye used (preferably a direct dye or a reactive dye) under appropriate dyeing conditions.
  • This second dye optionally also at least partially stains the cationized cellulose fiber.
  • lyocell fibers as non-cationized cellulosic fibers in the mixture has proven to be favorable, since these fibers are least contaminated by the metal complex dye.
  • the fiber mixture contains a proportion of non-cellulosic fibers.
  • Polyester fibers (PES) or polyamide fibers (PA) are particularly interesting for various applications. Mixtures of two components (cationized cellulose fiber / synthetic fiber) or three components (cationized cellulose fiber / non-cationized cellulose fiber / synthetic fiber) are particularly advantageous.
  • the effects that can be achieved depend on various parameters, depending on the components used and the types of dyes used.
  • the following table shows the influence of the dyeing temperature and the pH on various embodiments of the process according to the invention.
  • the table shows in particular that in the case of mixtures of cationized and non-cationized cellulose fibers, there are differences in the dyeing behavior above and below a dyeing temperature of 100 ° C.
  • the fiber mixture can be dyed in the form of a yarn or part of a chamois or a textile surface or part of a textile surface.
  • the fiber mixture is particularly preferably dyed in the form of a fabric in order to achieve a denim effect.
  • indigo dyeing The indigo effect desired for jeans is currently achieved by indigo dyeing. If you want to dye indigo continuously on cellulosic fibers, a complex, multi-stage process is necessary. Warp dyeing must be carried out, i.e. no finished fabrics can be dyed.
  • blended fabrics made of cationized cellulose fibers, polyester fibers and cotton fibers can be dyed so that the specific indigo effect can be achieved without multi-stage indigo dyeing and on an already finished fabric.
  • the invention further relates to a fiber mixture which can be obtained by the process according to the invention.
  • the invention further relates to a fiber mixture containing a portion of cationized cellulosic fibers and a portion of non-cationized cellulosic fibers, which is characterized in that the portion of cationized cellulosic fibers and the portion of non-cationized cellulosic fibers with one and the same direct dye and / or a reactive dye is dyed and that there is a difference in the intensity of the dyeing between the proportion of cationized cellulosic fibers and the proportion of non-cationized fibers.
  • the different degree of staining can be controlled in particular by the choice of the salt concentration in the coloring.
  • This embodiment of the fiber mixture according to the invention is preferably characterized in that the difference in the intensity of the coloration between the cationized cellulosic fibers and the non-cationized fibers is 5 to 50 CIELAB units according to the measurement method given below.
  • Another preferred embodiment of the present invention relates to a fiber mixture containing a portion of cationized cellulosic fibers and a portion of non-cationized cellulosic fibers, which is characterized in that the portion of cationized cellulosic fibers with a wool dye and optionally at least partially with another dye , in particular a direct dye and / or a reactive dye, is colored, while the proportion of non-cationized fibers is only colored by the other dye.
  • Non-cationized cellulosic fibers can include fibers from the group consisting of standard viscose fibers, modal fibers, lyocell fibers, cotton fibers and linen fibers.
  • the cationized cellulosic fibers preferably contain the cationic groups in the fiber mixtures according to the invention.
  • the cationized cellulosic fibers are furthermore preferably cationized viscose fibers.
  • the fiber mixtures according to the invention preferably contain a proportion of non-cellulosic fibers, e.g. Polyester fibers or polyamide fibers.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment of the fiber mixture according to the invention is in the form of a denim fabric. Preferred embodiments of the present invention are explained in more detail below on the basis of exemplary embodiments.
  • a fabric made from a mixture of standard viscose fibers and cationized viscose fibers was dyed at a dyeing temperature of 80 ° C. with a dye liquor containing 2% dye (Sirius Rubin K-2BL - direct dye, manufacturer DyStar) based on 20 g of fabric (600 ml liquor) and colored a nonionic wetting agent at various salt concentrations (Na 2 SO 4 ).
  • the brightness of the colored standard viscose fibers or the cationized viscose fibers was measured using the following measurement method:
  • the CIELAB whiteness of the fibers was determined using the following method: The color coordinates of the fibers were determined according to R x , R y R z according to DIN 6174 and DIN 5033 with illuminant D65 and at 10 ° observation angle. The CIE whiteness and the color cast in the red / green axis are calculated from these color coordinates according to DIN 55981 ( ⁇ color deviations according to Gärtner / Griesser) as follows:
  • Low-fibrillating Lyocell fibers type "Lyocell LF", manufacturer Lenzing AG
  • the non-cationized cellulose fibers (Lyocell or Modal) were stained practically exclusively with the direct dye; the cationized viscose fibers were additionally dyed with the metal complex dye, which, depending on the color and concentration of the dyes used, resulted in controllable mixed dyeings in the cationized fibers.
  • Striped socks (alternating 1 cm cationized viscose fibers and 1 cm Lyocell fibers) were produced and dyed with the following dye mixtures:
  • the colored striped socks had clearly different colored striped areas.
  • the sections with the Lyocell fibers were each colored yellow; the sections with the cationized viscose fibers each had a green mixed color (from the yellow direct dye and the blue wool dye).
  • the sections with the lyocell fibers were also colored yellow; the sections with the cationized viscose fibers each had an orange / reddish mixed color (from the yellow direct dye and the red wool dye).
  • Knitted stockings made from a yarn containing cationized viscose fibers and lyocell fibers (Nm 50/1)
  • a knitted fabric made of a twine - containing cationized viscose fibers and cotton fibers in a 50/50 ratio - and PES filament was first in a bath under dyeing conditions for PES fibers (ie at 130 ° C.) with a dye complex consisting of a metal complex dye and a disperse dye and then stained at 90 ° C with a direct dye at a salt concentration of 7 g / 1 salt.
  • a black disperse dye (Dianix Schwarz CC, manufacturer DyStar) was selected as the disperse dye for the PES fibers.
  • a fabric consisting of a mixture of cationized viscose fibers and PES fibers (60/40) in the warp and cotton fibers in the weft was first, as described in Example 4, under dyeing conditions for PES fibers with a dye mixture of one Disperse dye and a metal complex dye colored.
  • the described one-bath, approx. One-hour competition dyeing can be seen as an interesting alternative to the complex and technically demanding indigo dyeing.
  • the dyeing processes according to the invention for producing a denim effect also offer particularly good flexibility, since no previous warp dyeing is necessary and this enables rapid and efficient market adaptation.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Husbandry (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé servant à colorer un mélange constitué d'au moins deux types de fibres différents à l'aide d'un ou de plusieurs colorants. Le procédé selon l'invention est caractérisé en ce que le mélange contient une part de fibres cellulosiques cationisées. L'invention concerne également des mélanges de fibres obtenues par le procédé selon l'invention.
PCT/AT2004/000084 2003-03-13 2004-03-11 Procede pour colorer un melange constitue d'au moins deux types de fibres differents WO2004081279A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP04719330A EP1601831A1 (fr) 2003-03-13 2004-03-11 Procede pour colorer un melange constitue d'au moins deux types de fibres differents
US11/218,364 US20060085926A1 (en) 2003-03-13 2005-09-02 Process for dyeing a mixture of two or more different fibre types

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT0040003A AT413825B (de) 2003-03-13 2003-03-13 Verfahren zum färben einer mischung aus zwei oder mehr unterschiedlichen fasertypen
ATA400/2003 2003-03-13

Related Child Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
US11/218,364 Continuation US20060085926A1 (en) 2003-03-13 2005-09-02 Process for dyeing a mixture of two or more different fibre types

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2004081279A1 true WO2004081279A1 (fr) 2004-09-23

Family

ID=32968004

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/AT2004/000084 WO2004081279A1 (fr) 2003-03-13 2004-03-11 Procede pour colorer un melange constitue d'au moins deux types de fibres differents

Country Status (7)

Country Link
US (1) US20060085926A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1601831A1 (fr)
CN (1) CN100346029C (fr)
AT (1) AT413825B (fr)
TR (1) TR200503591T1 (fr)
TW (1) TW200427896A (fr)
WO (1) WO2004081279A1 (fr)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2011079331A1 (fr) 2009-12-28 2011-07-07 Lenzing Ag Corps moulé cellulosique fonctionnalisé et procédé pour le réaliser
CN104480558A (zh) * 2014-12-01 2015-04-01 江苏金太阳纺织科技有限公司 一种可无盐染色的再生纤维素纤维的制备方法
EP3486356A3 (fr) * 2019-02-04 2019-08-28 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft Tissu denim et son utilisation
EP3696317A1 (fr) 2019-02-15 2020-08-19 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft Fibre teinte dans la masse et son procédé de fabrication

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108396570A (zh) * 2018-02-26 2018-08-14 常州旭荣针织印染有限公司 天丝/羊毛/尼龙织物的染色方法

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DE3118556A1 (de) * 1980-05-12 1982-07-15 Výzkumný ústav zušlecht'ovací, Dvur Králové nad Labem Quaternaere ammoniumverbindungen, ihre herstellung und ihre verwendung bei der textilfaerbung
EP0638686A1 (fr) * 1993-08-13 1995-02-15 Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft Procédé et utilisation de colorants réactifs de dispersion pour teindre ou imprimer des textiles en coton ou en mélange coton/polyester
WO2000015896A1 (fr) * 1998-09-10 2000-03-23 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc. Procede de teinture de matieres en fibres cellulosiques
US20020066145A1 (en) * 2000-09-29 2002-06-06 Sudhir Gupta Method for creating a fabric with a colored pattern

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PT94345A (pt) * 1989-06-16 1991-02-08 Hoechst Ag Processo para obtencao de efeitos de padrao no tingimento ou estampagem de material textil na ausencia de alcalis ou agentes de reducao
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ATE168143T1 (de) * 1994-05-17 1998-07-15 Dystar Textilfarben Gmbh & Co Aminierung von cellulosischen synthesefasern
DE4422707A1 (de) * 1994-06-29 1996-01-04 Hoechst Ag Verfahren zum Färben aminierter Cellulose-/Polyester-Mischgewebe mit faserreaktiven Dispersionsfarbstoffen
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3118556A1 (de) * 1980-05-12 1982-07-15 Výzkumný ústav zušlecht'ovací, Dvur Králové nad Labem Quaternaere ammoniumverbindungen, ihre herstellung und ihre verwendung bei der textilfaerbung
EP0638686A1 (fr) * 1993-08-13 1995-02-15 Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft Procédé et utilisation de colorants réactifs de dispersion pour teindre ou imprimer des textiles en coton ou en mélange coton/polyester
WO2000015896A1 (fr) * 1998-09-10 2000-03-23 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc. Procede de teinture de matieres en fibres cellulosiques
US20020066145A1 (en) * 2000-09-29 2002-06-06 Sudhir Gupta Method for creating a fabric with a colored pattern

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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Title
CARDAMONE J M ET AL: "CATIONIC APPLICATIONS FOR UNION DYEING WOOL/COTTON BLENDS", TEXTILE CHEMIST AND COLORIST & AMERICAN DYESTUFF REPORTER, AMERICAN ASS. OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS & COLORISTS, US, vol. 32, no. 6, June 2000 (2000-06-01), pages 49 - 53, XP000970102, ISSN: 1526-2847 *

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2011079331A1 (fr) 2009-12-28 2011-07-07 Lenzing Ag Corps moulé cellulosique fonctionnalisé et procédé pour le réaliser
CN104480558A (zh) * 2014-12-01 2015-04-01 江苏金太阳纺织科技有限公司 一种可无盐染色的再生纤维素纤维的制备方法
EP3486356A3 (fr) * 2019-02-04 2019-08-28 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft Tissu denim et son utilisation
WO2020161016A1 (fr) * 2019-02-04 2020-08-13 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft Tissu denim et son utilisation
EP3696317A1 (fr) 2019-02-15 2020-08-19 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft Fibre teinte dans la masse et son procédé de fabrication
WO2020165363A1 (fr) 2019-02-15 2020-08-20 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft Fibre teinte dans la masse et procédé pour sa fabrication

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20060085926A1 (en) 2006-04-27
AT413825B (de) 2006-06-15
TW200427896A (en) 2004-12-16
ATA4002003A (de) 2005-10-15
CN100346029C (zh) 2007-10-31
EP1601831A1 (fr) 2005-12-07
TR200503591T1 (tr) 2006-05-22
CN1759217A (zh) 2006-04-12

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