WO2020161016A1 - Tissu denim et son utilisation - Google Patents

Tissu denim et son utilisation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020161016A1
WO2020161016A1 PCT/EP2020/052440 EP2020052440W WO2020161016A1 WO 2020161016 A1 WO2020161016 A1 WO 2020161016A1 EP 2020052440 W EP2020052440 W EP 2020052440W WO 2020161016 A1 WO2020161016 A1 WO 2020161016A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
yarn
dyeing
denim
knit
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2020/052440
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Wai Biu Mok
Chun Fan Chan
Kwong Wai Mok
Original Assignee
Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft filed Critical Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft
Priority to JP2021545708A priority Critical patent/JP2022519847A/ja
Priority to KR1020217027961A priority patent/KR20210122294A/ko
Priority to EP20701817.7A priority patent/EP3921463A1/fr
Priority to CN202080012509.1A priority patent/CN113366162A/zh
Priority to US17/428,182 priority patent/US20220120032A1/en
Publication of WO2020161016A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020161016A1/fr

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/52—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/53—Cooling; Steaming or heating, e.g. in fluidised beds; with molten metals
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/243—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel upper parts of panties; pants
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/66—Natural or regenerated cellulose using reactive dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8219—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and amide groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/828—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl groups
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/854—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres containing modified or unmodified fibres, i.e. containing the same type of fibres having different characteristics, e.g. twisted and not-twisted fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/13—Fugitive dyeing or stripping dyes
    • D06P5/137—Fugitive dyeing or stripping dyes with other compounds
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/20—Physical treatments affecting dyeing, e.g. ultrasonic or electric
    • D06P5/2066—Thermic treatments of textile materials
    • D06P5/2072—Thermic treatments of textile materials before dyeing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/22—Effecting variation of dye affinity on textile material by chemical means that react with the fibre
    • D06P5/225—Aminalization of cellulose; introducing aminogroups into cellulose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/14—Dyeability
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a fabric consisting of at least a first yarn containing cellulosic fibers modified by a cationic modifier and a second yarn containing cellulosic fibers not modified by a cationic modifier, and to the use of this fabric in order to obtain a denim appearance.
  • Denim is a kind of comfortable, fashionable, durable, casual textile fabric and popular in all age groups and all countries. Due to its typical, unique appearance - in particular the wash-out effect and its reputation as a durable fabric - garments made of denim have a cult item status.
  • the traditional denim is woven-made by interlacings of warp and weft yarns feature to create fabric construction with color fading feature. and it is normally a stiff, heavy weight and high-density fabric.
  • the fabric construction usually is 3/1 or 2/1 twill and 1/1 chambray construction.
  • Fig. 1 shows a typical fabric construction.
  • a coloured yarn and a white yarn have to be used for the weaving.
  • the coloured yarn is used as the warp yarn while the white yarn is used as the weft yarn.
  • the weaver has to keep at least two kinds of yarn in stock. If various coloured fabrics are needed, further yarns already dyed to the target fabric colour have to be kept in stock. Yarn dyeing generally is performed in specific dyeing equipment and therefore more costly than e.g. fabric dyeing or piece dyeing. Furthermore only a very limited number of colours suitable for denim-look dyeing is available.
  • indigo dyestuff is commonly used for denim dyeing.
  • the indigo pigment is a kind of water-insoluble vat dye. It has no affinity for the cellulosic fibre.
  • a lot of chemicals like sodium hydroxide and sodium hydrosulfite are required to convert the indigo into a water-soluble form which is a kind of fibre- affinitive leuco form.
  • the work-flow of the typical indigo yarn dyeing process is as follows: Prewetting - rinsing - scouring - rinsing - yarn indigo dyeing (rope dyeing) - rinsing/softening - rebeaming.
  • Indigo dyeing even nowadays is done in dye houses with waste water treatment plant and causes high cost for water treatment . Furthermore the fabrics show low wet rubbing fastness.
  • Indigo pigment 4g/l; Sodium hydrosulfite 3.2g/l; sodium hydroxide 2.68 g/l; pick-up 70%, 10 dips, the consumption is 280 kg indigo, 224kg sodium hydrosulfite and 188kg sodium hydroxide per day, most of it need to treat before going into the water streams.
  • Knit denim requires use of a special indigo knit yarn but the availability of such yarn is one of the key hurdles to develop this market, besides the cost.
  • Reactive dyes on cotton do not allow for a wash-out effect and the general problems caused by yarn dyeing are also not vanishing.
  • a second yarn containing cellulosic fibers not modified by a cationic modifier is not modified by a cationic modifier.
  • the yarn containing cellulosic fibers modified by a cationic modifier can be manufactured by treating it in a package dyeing machine using a substantially colorless cationic crosslinking modifying agent in an aqueous system.
  • substantially colorless means in the context of this invention that it has no colour visible by the human eye.
  • a suitable colorless cationic crosslinking modifier has at least two, but no more than six functional groups reactive with cellulose.
  • the colorless cationic crosslinking modifier is one out of the group containing trimethylammonium compounds and cationic triazin compounds.
  • a suitable cationic crosslinking modifier is commercially available under the trade name “EcofastTM CR-2000” from The Dow Chemical Company. The liquid ratio is 1 :4 ⁇ 1 : 10.
  • the dosage of the cationic modifier (calculated on dry substance) is 1 % ⁇ 10% on weight of fabric (“o.w.f”) with 2-4 g/L of sodium hydroxide.
  • the treatment temperature is 40-80°C for 20-40 minutes.
  • the construction of the fabric is such that on the first surface of the fabric mainly the first yarn is visible and on the second surface mainly the second yarn is visible. This is typical for the optical appearance of a denim fabric.
  • the fabric may contain a third yarn, in particular an elastane yarn.
  • a typical yarn may be a yarn containing 100% RoicaTM elastane fiber with yarn count 20 denier.
  • the fabric according to the invention is either a knit fabric or a woven fabric, preferably a knit fabric.
  • the fabric is a knit fabric of the tuck and miss stich construction type knitted according to the tuck and miss cam technology; this is crucial to achieve the inventive denim effect by a knit technology.
  • a typical knitting machine and machine specification may be a Terrot Single jersey jacquard machine, model SHS-90, with Cylinder Diameter: 26”, Needle gauge: 28 G, number of feeder: 42, rotation: Anticlockwise.
  • the first yarn may have a lyocell content of between 30 and 80%. Below 30% lyocell the wanted“fading” or“wash down” effect is not visible; above 80% lyocell the fabric or garment looks dirty upon fibrillation.
  • a typical composition may be 50% of Lyocell fibers and 50% of cotton fiber. However variations within the range outlined above are possible and effective, as well.
  • the type of yarn is very much depending on the type of the final fabric to be achieved and the skilled in the art will know which yarn to choose.
  • a ring spin yarn may be a good choice and for example a yarn count of the first yarn may be Ne 30/2.
  • the first yarn may be treated with a cationic modifier.
  • concentration of the cationic modifier may be between 0,5 and 5 %(w/w) in aqueous solution, preferably between 1 ,0 and 3,5 %(w/w), most preferably between 1 ,5 and 2,5 %(w/w).
  • the second yarn is composed of 100% Lyocell fibers. Blends with other cellulosic fibers like cotton, modal etc. are also possible, depending on the touch which should be obtained.
  • the yarn count may be Ne 10, spun according to the MVS spinning method.
  • the second yarn yarn is not able to absorb reactive dyestuff without using sodium sulphate, sodium carbonate and other dyeing auxiliary.
  • Fig. 2 shows a preferred embodiment of the invention:
  • a circular single jersey weft knitting machine using the knit, tuck and miss cam is used to construct a even twilling pattern on the fabric and produces a dual-plied denim including a back side and a face side of the fabric.
  • the back side is loosely knitted with variable tension/tensile force and a different stitch length than that of face side by adjusting the circular weft-knitting machine.
  • Cam arrangements are set for creating terry twill effect and only twill effect on the fabric.
  • the face side is compactly constructed with high tension/ tensile force by adjusting the machine to a high-density program.
  • Fig. 2 shows (from the left to the right):
  • a knitting machine program to control the movement action of the knitting needles.
  • the fabric is a woven fabric of the denim type.
  • the first yarn is the warp yarn and the second yarn is the weft yarn.
  • this fabric is a greige, i.e. an essentially colorless or undyed fabric.
  • this fabric is dyed to a denim appearance. Therefore a preferred embodiment of the invention is a fabric of essentially blue color, preferably a shade of blue comparable to indigo-dyed cotton fabric. However also other colors (like red, black, green, etc.) are accepted as having a kind of denim appearance. An important aspect of denim appearance in general is the wash-out effect.
  • the first yarn contains between 30 and 80% (w/w) of lyocell fibers, the remainder being preferably cotton.
  • the second yarn consists of cellulosic fibers, more particularly Lyocell fibers. Blends with other cellulosic fibers like cotton, modal etc. are also possible, depending on the touch which should be obtained.
  • the second yarn consists of 100% lyocell fibers.
  • the fabric according to the invention contains a third yarn, in particular made of elastane fibers.
  • the reactive dyestuff may be either a single reactive dyestuff or a composition consisting of a mixture of several reactive dyestuffs blended in a way suitable to obtain the requested color on the fabric.
  • the use according to the invention is in particular piece dyeing of the tailored garment containing the fabric according to the invention.
  • the first yarn was composed of 50% of Lyocell fibers (from Lenzing
  • the first yarn is treated in a package dyeing machine.
  • crosslinking modifier is commercially available under the trade name “EcofastTM CR-2000” from The Dow Chemical Company.
  • concentration of the cationic modifier is 3% o.w.f (i.e.“on weight of fabric”) of yarn with 2g/L of sodium hydroxide in the treatment liquid.
  • the liquid ratio is 1 :6.
  • the treatment temperature is 80°C for 30 min.
  • the first yarn was the yarn of Example 1.
  • the second yarn was composed of 100% Lyocell fibers (from Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft, Austria, under the trade name TENCELTM Lyocell).
  • the yarn count is Ne 10 with MVS spinning method.
  • the third yarn was 100% Roica spandex, yarn count 20 denier.
  • the greige fabric will be heat set at a stenter at 190°C for 2 minutes before the dyeing process.
  • the dyeing process is done by garment dyeing method with the conditions as follows: Liquid ratio: 1 : 10
  • Enzyme wash process 50°C x 30 minutes
  • Enzyme wash recipe 1 g/l Tanazyme CM

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un tissu constitué d'au moins un premier fil contenant des fibres cellulosiques modifiées par un modificateur cationique et un deuxième fil contenant des fibres cellulosiques non modifiées par un modificateur cationique, et l'utilisation de ce tissu afin d'obtenir un aspect Denim.
PCT/EP2020/052440 2019-02-04 2020-01-31 Tissu denim et son utilisation WO2020161016A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2021545708A JP2022519847A (ja) 2019-02-04 2020-01-31 デニム生地及びその使用
KR1020217027961A KR20210122294A (ko) 2019-02-04 2020-01-31 데님 패브릭 및 이의 용도
EP20701817.7A EP3921463A1 (fr) 2019-02-04 2020-01-31 Tissu denim et son utilisation
CN202080012509.1A CN113366162A (zh) 2019-02-04 2020-01-31 牛仔布织物和其用途
US17/428,182 US20220120032A1 (en) 2019-02-04 2020-01-31 Denim fabric and its use

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CN110205731B (zh) * 2019-05-30 2020-09-08 青岛新维纺织研究院有限公司 一种“先织后染”常压同浴染多色织物的制备工艺
CN113481740A (zh) * 2021-07-01 2021-10-08 韶关市北纺智造科技有限公司 染色牛仔面料及其制备方法
EP4361344A1 (fr) * 2022-10-28 2024-05-01 Swiss Performance Chemicals AG Tissu sans indigo présentant un aspect visuel denim
CN116446197B (zh) * 2023-03-30 2024-09-03 广州迅捷数码科技有限责任公司 一种活性仿色织的面料及其生产方法和应用

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WO2004081279A1 (fr) * 2003-03-13 2004-09-23 Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft Procede pour colorer un melange constitue d'au moins deux types de fibres differents
WO2008115685A1 (fr) * 2007-03-21 2008-09-25 Tintoria Piana Us, Inc. Textiles créés pour des clients et machine de teinture de vêtement orientée clients
US20160265146A1 (en) * 2013-10-14 2016-09-15 Invista North America S.A R.L. Stretch circular knit fabrics with multiple elastic yarns

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JP2022519847A (ja) 2022-03-25
KR20210122294A (ko) 2021-10-08
EP3486356A2 (fr) 2019-05-22
EP3486356A3 (fr) 2019-08-28
EP3921463A1 (fr) 2021-12-15
TW202030390A (zh) 2020-08-16
US20220120032A1 (en) 2022-04-21

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