TW202030390A - 丹寧布織物及其用途 - Google Patents

丹寧布織物及其用途 Download PDF

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TW202030390A
TW202030390A TW108148375A TW108148375A TW202030390A TW 202030390 A TW202030390 A TW 202030390A TW 108148375 A TW108148375 A TW 108148375A TW 108148375 A TW108148375 A TW 108148375A TW 202030390 A TW202030390 A TW 202030390A
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fabric
yarn
dyeing
denim
cationic
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莫維彪
陳振帆
莫光偉
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奧地利商蘭仁股份有限公司
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Abstract

本發明係關於一種至少由含有經陽離子改質劑改質之纖維素纖維的第一紗和含有未經陽離子改質劑改質之纖維素纖維的第二紗構成的織物，且關於該織物為獲得丹寧布外觀之用途。

Description

丹寧布織物及其用途
本發明係關於一種至少由含有經陽離子改質劑改質之纖維素纖維的第一紗和含有未經陽離子改質劑改質之纖維素纖維的第二紗構成的織物，且關於該織物為獲得丹寧布外觀之用途。
丹寧布氏一種舒適、時尚、耐用、休閒的紡織物且在所有年齡層和所有國家中受歡迎。由於其典型且獨特外觀，尤其是洗出效果(wash-out effect)及其作為耐用織物的名聲，由丹寧布製作之衣服具有狂受喜愛之品項的地位。 以靛青染色以及該織物之構造對此是必要的，其中在該衣服中該織物之外表面典型是藍色的且在內表面主要是白色的。 傳統的丹寧布是藉由經紗和緯紗特徵交織以產生具有褪色特徵之織物構造所梭織製造的，且彼正常是硬挺、質重且高密度的織物。該織物構造經常是3/1或2/1斜紋布(twill)和1/1水手布(chambray)構造。圖1顯示典型之織物構造。 為獲得具有該衣服之主要著色外側和主要白色內側的典型丹寧布外觀，著色之紗和白色紗必須被用於該梭織。經常地，該著色之紗被用來作為經紗，而該白紗被用來作為該緯紗。當丹寧布被梭織時，該梭織係以60%之該材料的著色經紗是在該衣服外側且40%之該白色緯紗是在內側的方式進行。這特別是意指：織工必須持有至少二類的紗存貨。若需要不同的著色織物，另外之已經染成標的織物顏色的紗必須有存貨。紗染(yarn dyeing)通常是在特定染色設備中進行且因此比例如織物染(fabric dyeing)或疋染(piece dyeing)更加昂貴。另外，僅得到極受限制之數目之適合單寧布樣子的染色的顏色。 傳統上，靛青染料普遍被用於丹寧布染色。該靛青顏料是一種不溶於水的甕染料。該靛青顏料對該纖維素纖維不具有親和力。需要很多類似氫氧化鈉和亞硫酸氫鈉之化學品以將該靛青轉化成水溶型，其為一種親纖維之無色型。為將1kg之靛青顆粒轉化成該無色型，需要0.8kg之亞硫酸氫鈉和0.67kg之氫氧化鈉於該還原製程。該典型靛青紗染色製程之工作流程如下：預潤濕(prewetting)－清洗(rinsing)－洗刷(scouring)－清洗－紗靛青染色(繩染色)－清洗／軟化－再成束(rebeaming)。 即使如今，靛青染色係在具有廢水處理廠之染房中完成且造成用於水處理之高成本。另外，該織物顯示低的耐濕摩擦性。在典型之靛青紗染色工廠中(其中每天10噸之靛青紗係以如下之配方染色：靛青顏料4g/l；亞硫酸氫鈉3.2 g/l；氫氧化鈉2.68 g/l；壓吸率70%，10次浸漬)，每天消耗280 kg靛青、224 kg亞硫酸氫鈉及188kg氫氧化鈉，在進入該水流之前，大部分需要處理。在世界上有超過一千間靛青紗染色廠。 由於該梭織丹寧布的硬手感，在流行設計中其應用是受限的，尤其是用於緊身衣服或無縫衣服部門。然而，如今消費者不僅喜歡丹寧布樣子，也要求柔軟性、穿戴時之舒適性，及亮度。針織單寧布能提供遠比梭織丹寧布更好的性質。 該典型丹寧布織物針織製程的工作流程係如下：將靛青染色的紗引導在該針織機上－針織－織物洗刷－酵素處理－軟化－以擴幅機拉直(Stenter dressing)。 針織丹寧布需要於特殊之靛青針織紗之用途，但在成本之外，此種紗之可取得性是發展此市場之關鍵障礙之一。其次，在該針織步驟期間，由於該靛青染色纖維和紗表面之差的耐摩擦性，使用該靛青針織紗將引起在導引滾筒和給料機上受著色的纖維塵粒的汙染。清潔所需之機器之停機時間明顯減低製造效率。若所造成之汙染在下一個製造期之前沒有完全移除，所得之紗將使利用該紗所製之織物明顯降級。 棉之常見的反應性染色不解決這些問題：在棉上之反應性染色不允許有洗出效果且紗染所造成之一般問題也沒有消失。問題 鑒於該先前技藝，待解決之問題是要提供一種在沒有汙染環境下以經濟方式製造具有該典型丹寧布外觀之織物的方法。
本發明之目的是要提供一種至少由下述物質構成的織物， a. 含有經陽離子改質劑改質之纖維素纖維的第一紗， b. 含有未經陽離子改質劑改質之纖維素纖維的第二紗。 該含有經陽離子改質劑改質之纖維素纖維的 紗係藉由在一套染色機中使用於水性系統中之實質無色之陽離子交聯改質劑處理該紗而製造。在本發明之上下文中「實質無色」意指用人眼可見到彼是無色的。 適合之無色陽離子交聯改質劑具有至少二個但不多於六個與纖維素具反應性之官能基。較佳地，該無色陽離子交聯改質劑是含有三甲基銨化合物和陽離子三嗪化合物之群組中之一者。適合之陽離子交聯改質劑是由The Dow Chemical Company所銷售之商標為「EcofastTM CR-2000」者。液比是1:4〜1:10。若利用2-4 g/L之氫氧化鈉，該陽離子改質劑之劑量(基於乾物質計算)基於織物重量(「o.w.f」)是1%〜10%。處理溫度是40-80℃歷時20-40分鐘。 較佳地，該織物之構造是使在該織物之第一表面上主要見到該第一紗，且在該第二表面上主要見到該第二紗。這是丹寧布織物之典型光學外觀。 該織物可含有第三紗，尤其是彈性纖維紗(elastane yarn)。典型的紗是含有100%之RoicaTM 彈性纖維的紗，其具有20丹尼(denier)之紗計數。 根據本發明之織物是針織物或梭織物，較佳是針織物。 在本發明之較佳具體例中，該織物是根據掛針(tuck)及漏凸輪(miss cam)技術針織之掛針和空針(miss stich)針法構造類型之針織物；這對藉由針織技術獲得本發明之丹寧布效果是重要的。 對於本發明之該具體例，該一般製程的路徑會如下： 製備該等紗(經陽離子改質劑改質之第一紗，未經陽離子改質劑改質之第二紗)-＞藉由褶皺和漏凸輪技術將該第一和第二紗圓形針織(circular knitting)-＞織物染色-＞酵素處理-＞軟化-＞以擴幅機拉直。 典型之針織機和機器規格可以是SHS-90型之Terrot單平針緹花織機(Single jersey jacquard machine)，圓柱直徑：26”，針軌距(needle gauge)：28 G，給料機數目：42，旋轉：逆時針。然而，機器類型和規格也有作用，若根據本發明之特徵被實現。 在較佳具體例中，該第一紗可具有在30與80%之間的萊賽爾(lyocell)含量。在低於30%萊賽爾下，不可見所欲之「褪色(fading)」或「洗下(wash down)」效果；在高於80%萊賽爾下，該織物或衣服在纖維化後看起來骯髒。典型組成物可以是50%之Lyocell纖維及50%之棉纖維。然而，在上列範圍內之變化也是可能且有效的。 該類型之紗(紡絲方法、紗計數等)極依賴待獲得之織物成品類型而定且熟練此技藝之人員會知道要選擇哪種紗。對於針織的丹寧布，環型紡絲紗可以是一個好選擇且例如該第一紗之紗計數可以是Ne 30/2。 該第一紗可用陽離子改質劑處理。該陽離子改質劑在水溶液中的濃度可以在0.5與5%(w/w)之間，較佳地在1.0與3.5%(w/w)之間，最佳地在1.5與2.5%(w/w)之間。藉由此處理，在不使用硫酸鈉、碳酸鈉和其他染色輔劑下，該第一紗能吸收反應性染料。 在較佳具體例中，該第二紗係由100% Lyocell纖維構成。依據應被獲得的觸感，與類似棉、莫代爾等之其他纖維素纖維的摻合物也是可能的。該紗計數根據MVS紡絲方法所紡絲的，可以是Ne 10。在不使用硫酸鈉、碳酸鈉和其他染色輔劑下，該第二紗不能吸收反應性染料。 圖2顯示本發明之較佳具體例：使用該針織、摺皺及漏凸輪之圓形單平針緯編針織機被使用以在該織物上建構均勻之斜紋圖案且製造包括該織物之背面和正面的雙絨毛型(dual-piled)單寧布。該背面係藉由調節該圓形緯編針織機，利用可變張力／拉力及與正面不同之針距長度而鬆針織(loosely knitted)。凸輪配置被固定以供產生起毛圈之斜紋布效果及僅斜紋布效果在該織物上。該正面係藉由調節該機器至高密度程式，利用高張力／拉力來緻密地建構。 圖2顯示(由左至右)： a. 該正面(深色)和背面(淺色)之照片； b. 該織物之剖面(B=紗1=第一紗；W=紗2=第二紗)； c./d. 為控制該針織之針移動行為的針織機程式。 在本發明之另一較佳具體例中，該織物是該丹寧布類型之梭織物。較佳地，該第一紗是該經紗且該第二紗是該緯紗。 在特佳具體例中，該織物是胚布，亦即實質無色或未染色之織物。 在另一特佳具體例中，將該織物染成丹寧布外觀。因此，本發明之較佳具體例是實質藍色的織物，較佳是與靛青染色之棉織物相當的藍色調。然而，其他顏色(類似紅色、黑色、綠色等)也被接受是為一種單寧色外觀。丹寧布外觀之重要態樣通常是該洗出效果。 較佳地，該第一紗含有在30與80%(w/w)之萊賽爾纖維，其餘較佳是棉。 較佳地，該第二紗係由纖維素纖維(更特別地是Lyocell纖維)構成。依據應得之觸感，與其他類似棉、莫代爾等之纖維素纖維的摻合物也是可能的。在一特佳具體例中，該第二紗係由100%之萊賽爾纖維構成。 在另一較佳具體例中，根據本發明之織物含有第三紗，尤其是由彈性纖維製成的。 本發明之另一目的是要使用上述織物在用於製作具有丹寧布外觀之織物的製程中，該製程係藉由在6.0與8.0之間的pH下，較佳在6.5與7.5之間的pH下，且在不存在鹽下(亦即該染色浴實質上僅由水(僅含有天然礦物含量，例如自來水)構成)，以反應性染料將上述織物染色及使用該反應性染料或反應性染料混合物。依據該水源，首先可能需要在使用該水於根據本發明之製程前調節該水之pH至上述範圍。 根據本發明，該反應性染料可以是單一反應性染料或由數種以適合在該織物上獲得所需顏色的方式摻合的反應性染料之混合物構成之組成物。 在較佳具體例中，根據本發明之用途尤其是含有根據本發明之織物之經裁縫的衣服的疋染(piece dyeing)。 本發明之另一目的是要提供根據本發明之織物於製造衣服的用途，特別是製造牛仔褲、夾克、襯衫和短上衣的用途。那些衣服則會顯出丹寧布外觀。 本發明現在將藉由實例闡明。這些實例絕不限制本發明的範圍。本發明也包括基於本發明之觀念的任何其他具體例。
實例 1 ： 陽離子處理(紗)： 該紗係由50%之Lyocell纖維(由Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft, Austria所得之商標為TENCELTM Lyocell者)和50%之棉纖維。利用環紡絲方法，該紗計數是Ne 30/2。 該第一紗在一套染色機中處理。該陽離子交聯改質劑是由The Dow Chemical Company所銷售之商標為「EcofastTM CR-2000」者。在該處理液中有2g/L氫氧化鈉下，該陽離子改質劑之濃度是o.w.f(亦即「基於紗之織物的重量」)紗之3%。該液比是1:6。該處理溫度是80℃歷時30分鐘。實例 2 ： 該織物之針織： 該第一紗是實例1之紗。該第二紗是由100%之Lyocell纖維(由Lenzing Altiengesellschaft, Austria所銷售之商標為TENCELTM Lyocell者)構成。利用MVS紡絲方法，該紗計數是Ne 10。該第三紗是100%之Roica彈性纖維，紗計數為20丹尼。 該針織機規格如下：SHS-90型之Terrot單平針緹花織機，圓柱直徑：26”，針軌距：28 G，給料機數目：42，旋轉：逆時針。該針織程序和所得之織物結構係如在圖2中者。實例 3 ： 染色和加工製程(織物) 在該染色製程之前，該胚布織物在190℃下在擴幅機熱固定2分鐘。該染色製程係藉由在以下條件下的衣服染色方法進行：
液比： 1：10
洗刷製程： 60℃×20分鐘
染色製程： 60℃×30分鐘
染色配方：   
　　Avitera Deep Blue SE： 基於織物重量2%
　　Avitera Red SE： 基於織物重量0.2%
酵素洗滌製程： 50℃×30分鐘
酵素洗滌配方： 1g/l Tanazyme CM
   0.2ml/l乙酸
軟化製程： 40℃×30分鐘
軟化配方： 1% Persoftal Nano SIL
[圖1]顯示典型之織物構造。 [圖2]顯示本發明之較佳具體例： a. 該正面(深色)和背面(淺色)之照片； b. 該織物之剖面(B=紗1=第一紗；W=紗2=第二紗)； c./d. 為控制該針織之針移動行為的針織機程式。

Claims (14)

  1. 一種至少由下述物質構成的織物， a. 含有經陽離子改質劑改質之纖維素纖維的第一紗， b. 含有未經陽離子改質劑改質之纖維素纖維的第二紗。
  2. 如請求項1之織物，其中該織物之構造是使在該織物之第一表面上主要見到該第一紗，且在該第二表面上主要見到該第二紗。
  3. 如請求項1之織物，其中該織物是針織物或梭織物，較佳是針織物。
  4. 如請求項1之織物，其為掛針(tuck)及空針(miss)針法構造類型之針織物。
  5. 如請求項1之織物，其中該織物是該丹寧布類型之梭織物。
  6. 如請求項1之織物，其中該織物是胚布(greige)織物。
  7. 如請求項1之織物，其中將該織物染成丹寧布外觀。
  8. 如請求項1之織物，其中該第一紗含有在30與80%(w/w)之間的萊賽爾(lyocell)纖維。
  9. 如請求項1之織物，其中該第二紗係由纖維素纖維構成，較佳由100%之萊賽爾纖維構成。
  10. 如請求項1之織物，其中該織物含有第三紗，尤其是彈性纖維紗(elastane yarn)。
  11. 一種如請求項1之織物的用途，其係用於藉由在不存在鹽下，在6.0與8.0之間的pH下，較佳在6.5與7.5之間的pH下以反應性染料將該織物染色以製造具有丹寧布外觀之織物。
  12. 如請求項11之用途，其中該反應性染料是由數種染料之混合物構成之組成物以在該織物上獲得所需之顏色。
  13. 如請求項11之用途，其中該染色特別是含有如請求項1之織物之經裁縫的衣服的疋染(piece dyeing)。
  14. 如請求項1之織物的用途，其係用於製造衣服，特別是牛仔褲、夾克、襯衫和短上衣。
TW108148375A 2019-02-04 2019-12-30 丹寧布織物及其用途 TW202030390A (zh)

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US20020066145A1 (en) * 2000-09-29 2002-06-06 Sudhir Gupta Method for creating a fabric with a colored pattern
AT413825B (de) * 2003-03-13 2006-06-15 Chemiefaser Lenzing Ag Verfahren zum färben einer mischung aus zwei oder mehr unterschiedlichen fasertypen
US7848841B2 (en) * 2007-03-21 2010-12-07 Tintoria Piana Us, Inc. Customer-created textiles and method of producing same
US9689092B2 (en) * 2013-10-14 2017-06-27 Invista North America S.A R.L. Stretch circular knit fabrics with multiple elastic yarns
CN108611881B (zh) * 2018-04-11 2021-02-19 华南理工大学 一种纤维素纤维留白染色织物的制备方法

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US20220120032A1 (en) 2022-04-21
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CN113366162A (zh) 2021-09-07

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