CN113366162A - 牛仔布织物和其用途 - Google Patents

牛仔布织物和其用途 Download PDF

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CN113366162A
CN113366162A CN202080012509.1A CN202080012509A CN113366162A CN 113366162 A CN113366162 A CN 113366162A CN 202080012509 A CN202080012509 A CN 202080012509A CN 113366162 A CN113366162 A CN 113366162A
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fabric
yarn
dyeing
denim
yarns
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莫维彪
陈振帆
莫光伟
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Lianjinge
Lenzing AG
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种至少由含有被阳离子改性剂改性的纤维素纤维的第一纱线和含有未被阳离子改性剂改性的纤维素纤维的第二纱线组成的织物，以及该织物用来获得牛仔布外观的用途。

Description

牛仔布织物和其用途
本发明涉及一种至少由含有被阳离子改性剂改性的纤维素纤维的第一纱线和含有未被阳离子改性剂改性的纤维素纤维的第二纱线组成的织物，以及该织物用来获得牛仔布外观的用途。
现有技术
牛仔布是一类舒适、时髦、耐用、休闲的纺织织物，并且在所有年龄群和所有国家都受到欢迎。由于其典型独特的外观、特别是水洗(wash-out)效果和其作为耐用织物的名声，由牛仔布制成的服装具有时尚品(cult item)的地位。
对此必要的是用靛蓝染色和织物结构，其中服装中织物的外表面通常是蓝色且在内表面上以白色为主。
传统牛仔布是通过经纱和纬纱特征的交织织造制成的，以产生具有褪色特征的织物结构，并且其通常是硬挺、重量重且密度高的织物。织物结构通常是3/1或2/1斜纹和1/1钱布雷结构。图1示出典型的织物结构。
为了获得具有服装外部有色为主且内部白色为主的典型牛仔布外观，必须将有色纱线和白色纱线用于织造。通常有色纱线被用作经纱而白色纱线被用作纬纱。在织造牛仔布时，以使得60%的材料的有色经纱在服装的外部上且40%的白色纬纱在内部上的这样的方式来进行。这尤其意指织布工必须保持至少两类纱线现存。如果需要多种有色织物，必须保持已被染成目标织物颜色的另外的纱线现存。纱线染色一般在特定的染色设备中进行，并因此与例如织物染色或匹染相比更昂贵。此外，仅可得到数量非常有限的适合于牛仔布风格染色的颜色。
在传统上，靛蓝染料通常被用于牛仔布染色。靛蓝颜料是一类水不溶性还原染料。它对纤维素纤维不具有亲和性。需要大量化学剂、如氢氧化钠和连二亚硫酸钠以将靛蓝转化成水溶性形式，其是一类亲和纤维的无色形式。为了将1 kg靛蓝颗粒转化成无色形式，需要0.8 kg连二亚硫酸钠和0.67 kg氢氧化钠用于还原过程。典型的靛蓝纱线染色方法的工艺流程如下：预湿-漂洗-精练-漂洗-纱线靛蓝染色(绳状染色)-漂洗/软化-倒轴。
靛蓝染色即使现在也在具有废水处理装置的染坊中进行，并且造成了高的水处理成本。此外，织物显示低的湿摩擦牢度。在典型的靛蓝纱线染色工厂中，其中用如下配方对每天10吨靛蓝纱线进行染色：靛蓝颜料4 g/l，连二亚硫酸钠3.2 g/l，氢氧化钠2.68 g/l；吸液率70%，10次浸渍，每天的消耗是280 kg靛蓝、224 kg连二亚硫酸钠和188 kg氢氧化钠，其大多数需要在进入水流前被处理。世界上有超过千家靛蓝纱线染色工厂。
由于机织牛仔布的硬挺手感，其在时装设计、尤其是紧身服装或无缝服装部分中的应用受限。然而，现在消费者喜欢的是不仅具有牛仔布风格，而且要求柔软度、穿着舒适性和轻便。与机织牛仔布相比，针织牛仔布可更好地提供这类性质。
典型的牛仔布织物针织方法的工艺流程如下：将靛蓝染色的纱线和非靛蓝染色的纱线引入针织机上-针织-织物精练-酶处理-软化-拉幅机整理。
针织牛仔布要求使用特殊的靛蓝针织纱线，但这类纱线的可用性是除成本外开发该市场的主要障碍之一。其次，在针织步骤中，由于靛蓝染色的纤维和纱线表面的摩擦牢度差，使用靛蓝针织纱线将引起导布辊和给纱装置处被有色纤维粉尘污染。清洁所需的机器停机时间明显降低了生产效率。如果造成的污染在下一个生产阶段之前未被完全去除，所得纱线将导致使用其制成的织物显著降级。
对棉的常规活性染色没有解决这些问题：棉上的活性染料不允许水洗效果，并且纱线染色所造成的普遍问题也没有消失。
问题
鉴于该现有技术，待解决的问题是提供一种以不污染环境的经济方式生产具有典型牛仔布外观的织物的方法。
发明详述
本发明的目的在于提供一种至少由以下者组成的织物：
a.含有被阳离子改性剂改性的纤维素纤维的第一纱线，
b.含有未被阳离子改性剂改性的纤维素纤维的第二纱线。
含有被阳离子改性剂改性的纤维素纤维的纱线可通过在筒子纱染色机中使用于水性体系中的大致上无色的阳离子交联改性剂处理它来制造。在本发明的情形下，“大致上无色”意指其不具有人眼可见的颜色。
合适的无色阳离子交联改性剂具有至少两个、但不多于六个可与纤维素反应的官能团。优选无色阳离子交联改性剂是出自含有三甲基铵化合物和阳离子三嗪化合物的组的一种。合适的阳离子交联改性剂可以商品名“Ecofast TM CR-2000”从Dow Chemical公司商购获得。液体比为1:4~1:10。阳离子改性剂的剂量(以干物质计算)是基于织物的重量(“o.w.f”) 1%~10%，具有2-4 g/L的氢氧化钠。处理温度为40-80℃，持续20-40分钟。
优选织物的结构使得在织物的第一表面上主要可见第一纱线，且在第二表面上主要可见第二纱线。这对于牛仔布织物的视觉外观是典型的。
织物可含有第三纱线，特别是弹性纱线(elastane yarn)。典型的纱线可为含有100% RoicaTM弹性纤维、纱线支数为20旦尼尔的纱线。
根据本发明的织物是针织物或机织物，优选针织物。
在本发明的优选实施方案中，织物是根据集圈和浮线三角(miss cam)技术针织的集圈和浮线(miss stich)结构类型的针织物；这对于用针织技术实现本发明牛仔布效果是关键的。
对于本发明的该实施方案，一般方法路线将为如下：
制备纱线(第一纱线被阳离子改性剂改性，第二纱线未被阳离子改性剂改性)→用集圈和浮线三角技术对第一和第二纱线进行圆形针织→织物染色→酶处理→软化→拉幅机整理。
典型的针织机和机器规格可为Terrot Single乔赛提花针织机，SHS-90型，具有26"的圆筒直径、28 G的针距、42的给纱装置数目、逆时针的旋转。然而，实现了根据本发明的特征的机器类型和规格也是可行的。
在优选实施方案中，第一纱线可具有30与80%之间的莱赛尔含量。莱赛尔低于30%则想要的“褪色”或“洗掉”效果不可见；莱赛尔高于80%则在原纤维化后织物或服装看起来脏。典型的组成可为50%的莱赛尔纤维和50%的棉纤维。然而，在上述范围内的变化也是可能和有效的。
纱线的类型(纺制方法、纱线支数等)在很大程度上取决于要实现的最终织物的类型，并且本领域技术人员将知道选择哪种纱线。对于针织牛仔布而言，环锭纺纱可为良好的选择，并且例如第一纱线的纱线支数可为Ne 30/2。
可用阳离子改性剂处理第一纱线。阳离子改性剂于水溶液中的浓度可介于0.5与5% (重量/重量)之间，优选介于1.0与3.5% (重量/重量)之间，最优选介于1.5与2.5% (重量/重量)之间。通过这种处理，在不使用硫酸钠、碳酸钠和其他染色助剂的情况下，第一纱线能够吸收活性染料。
在优选实施方案中，第二纱线由100%莱赛尔纤维组成。取决于应获得的触感，与如棉、莫代尔等的其他纤维素纤维的共混物也是可能的。纱线支数可为Ne 10，根据MVS纺制法纺制。在不使用硫酸钠、碳酸钠和其他染色助剂的情况下，第二纱线不能吸收活性染料。
图2示出本发明的优选实施方案：使用针织、集圈和浮线三角的圆形单面乔赛纬编针织机被用来在织物上构造双面斜纹图案，并且产生包括织物的背面和正面的双股线牛仔布。通过调节圆形纬编针织机，背面被松散地针织，具有可变的张力/拉力和与正面不同的针迹长度。设定三角布置用于在织物上产生毛圈斜纹效果和仅斜纹效果。通过将机器调节为高密度程序，正面被紧密构造，具有高的张力/拉力。
图2（从左到右）示出：
a.正面(暗色)和背面(亮色)的照片；
b.织物的截面(B =纱线1 =第一纱线；W =纱线2 =第二纱线)；
c./d.控制针织用针的运动动作的针织机程序。
在本发明的另一个优选实施方案中，织物是牛仔布类型的机织物。优选第一纱线是经纱且第二纱线是纬纱。
在特别优选的实施方案中，该织物是本色布，即，基本上无色或未染色的织物。
在另一个特别优选的实施方案中，该织物被染色为牛仔布外观。因此，本发明的优选实施方案是基本上为蓝色、优选可与靛蓝染色的棉织物相比拟的蓝色色泽的织物。然而，其他颜色(如红色、黑色、绿色等)也被接受为具有类似牛仔布外观。牛仔布外观的一个重要方面一般而言是水洗效果。
优选第一纱线含有30与80% (重量/重量)之间的莱赛尔纤维，其余部分优选为棉。
优选第二纱线由纤维素纤维、更特别地莱赛尔纤维组成。取决于应获得的触感，与如棉、莫代尔等的其他纤维素纤维的共混物也是可能的。在特别优选的实施方案中，第二纱线由100%莱赛尔纤维组成。
在另一个优选实施方案中，根据本发明的织物含有第三纱线，特别地由弹性纤维制成。
本发明的另一个目的在于，在通过在不存在盐的情况下(即，染浴基本上仅由水(仅具有天然矿物含量如自来水)和活性染料或活性染料的混合物组成)，在6.0与8.0之间的pH、优选6.5与7.5之间的pH下用活性染料对上述织物进行染色来制备具有牛仔布外观的织物的方法中使用上述织物。取决于水源，可能需要首先将水的pH调节至上文提及的范围，之后在根据本发明的方法中使用水。
根据本发明，活性染料可为单一的活性染料或由以适合获得织物上所要求颜色的方式共混的数种活性染料的混合物组成的组合物。
在优选实施方案中，根据本发明的用途特别地是对含有根据本发明的织物的定做服装进行匹染。
本发明的又一个目的是提供根据本发明的织物用于制造服装，特别地牛仔裤、夹克、衬衫和罩衫的用途。然后那些服装将显示牛仔布外观。
现将通过实施例来例示本发明。这些实施例不以任何方式限制本发明的范围。本发明还包括基于相同的发明构思的任何其他实施方案。
实施例
实施例1：
阳离子处理(纱线)：
第一纱线由50%的莱赛尔纤维(来自奥地利的Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft，商品名为TENCELTM莱赛尔)和50%的棉纤维组成。纱线支数为Ne 30/2，利用环锭纺制法。
在筒子纱染色机中处理第一纱线。阳离子交联改性剂可以商品名“EcofastTM CR-2000”从Dow Chemical公司商购获得。阳离子改性剂的浓度为纱线的3% o.w.f (即，“基于织物的重量”)，处理液中具有2 g/L的氢氧化钠。液体比为1:6。处理温度为80℃，持续30min。
实施例2：
织物的针织：
第一纱线为实施例1的纱线。第二纱线由100%莱赛尔纤维(来自奥地利的LenzingAktiengesellschaft，商品名为TENCELTM莱赛尔)组成。纱线支数为Ne 10，利用MVS纺制法。第三纱线为100% Roica氨纶，纱线支数为20旦尼尔。
针织机规格如下：Terrot Single乔赛提花针织机，SHS-90型，具有26"的圆筒直径、28 G的针距、42的给纱装置数目、逆时针的旋转。针织程序和由此获得的织物结构如图2中所示。
实施例3：
染色和整理过程(织物)
在染色过程之前，本色布织物将在190℃下在拉幅机处热定形2分钟。染色过程通过具有如下条件的服装染色法来进行：
液体比：1:10
精练过程：60℃×20分钟
染色过程：60℃×30分钟
染色配方：
Avitera深蓝色SE：基于织物的重量2%
Avitera红色SE：基于织物的重量0.2%
酶洗过程：50℃×30分钟
酶洗配方：1 g/l Tanazyme CM
0.2 ml/l醋酸
软化过程：40℃×30分钟
软化配方：1% Persoftal Nano SIL。

Claims (14)

1.织物，其至少由以下者组成：
a.含有被阳离子改性剂改性的纤维素纤维的第一纱线，
b.含有未被阳离子改性剂改性的纤维素纤维的第二纱线。
2.根据权利要求1所述的织物，其中所述织物的结构使得在所述织物的第一表面上主要可见所述第一纱线，且在第二表面上主要可见所述第二纱线。
3.根据权利要求1所述的织物，其中所述织物是针织物或机织物，优选针织物。
4.根据权利要求1所述的织物，其为集圈和浮线结构类型的针织物。
5.根据权利要求1所述的织物，其中所述织物是牛仔布类型的机织物。
6.根据权利要求1所述的织物，其中所述织物是本色布织物。
7.根据权利要求1所述的织物，其中所述织物被染色为牛仔布外观。
8.根据权利要求1所述的织物，其中所述第一纱线含有30与80% (重量/重量)之间的莱赛尔纤维。
9.根据权利要求1所述的织物，其中所述第二纱线由纤维素纤维、优选100%莱赛尔纤维组成。
10.根据权利要求1所述的织物，其中所述织物含有第三纱线，特别是弹性纱线。
11.如权利要求1所述的织物用于通过在不存在盐的情况下，在6.0与8.0之间的pH、优选6.5与7.5之间的pH下用活性染料对所述织物进行染色来制备具有牛仔布外观的织物的用途。
12.根据权利要求11所述的用途，其中所述活性染料是由数种染料的混合物组成的组合物，以获得所述织物上的所要求颜色。
13.根据权利要求11所述的用途，其中所述染色特别地是对含有根据权利要求1所述的织物的定做服装进行匹染。
14.根据权利要求1所述的织物用于制造服装，特别地牛仔裤、夹克、衬衫和罩衫的用途。
CN202080012509.1A 2019-02-04 2020-01-31 牛仔布织物和其用途 Pending CN113366162A (zh)

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