US20180042345A1 - Jewellery stone, in particular facetted diamond and method for mounting same on a mount - Google Patents

Jewellery stone, in particular facetted diamond and method for mounting same on a mount Download PDF

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Publication number
US20180042345A1
US20180042345A1 US15/531,621 US201515531621A US2018042345A1 US 20180042345 A1 US20180042345 A1 US 20180042345A1 US 201515531621 A US201515531621 A US 201515531621A US 2018042345 A1 US2018042345 A1 US 2018042345A1
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United States
Prior art keywords
pavilion
stone
jewelry stone
mount
jewelry
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Abandoned
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US15/531,621
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English (en)
Inventor
Romain Moyse
Marie-Adélaîde LO
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Cartier International AG
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Cartier International AG
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Filing date
Publication date
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Assigned to CARTIER INTERNATIONAL AG reassignment CARTIER INTERNATIONAL AG ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: LO, Marie-Adélaïde, MOYSE, Romain
Publication of US20180042345A1 publication Critical patent/US20180042345A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A44C27/001—Materials for manufacturing jewellery
    • A44C27/005—Coating layers for jewellery
    • A44C27/006—Metallic coatings

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a jewelry stone, made from a natural or synthetic material, in particular a faceted diamond, including a visible frontal part called a crown and a dorsal part that is at least partially hidden when the stone is mounted on a mount, said dorsal part being called pavilion and being separated from the crown by an intermediate part between said crown and said pavilion, called girdle, said jewelry stone including fastening means allowing it to be fastened on said mount, said fastening means including a metal connecting zone located on said pavilion.
  • a jewelry stone made from a natural or synthetic material, in particular a faceted diamond, including a visible frontal part called a crown and a dorsal part that is at least partially hidden when the stone is mounted on a mount, said dorsal part being called pavilion and being separated from the crown by an intermediate part between said crown and said pavilion, called girdle, said jewelry stone including fastening means allowing it to be fastened on said mount, said fastening means including a metal connecting zone located on said pavilion
  • Jewelry stones in particular diamonds, are intended to be fastened on a mount or frame, for example to form pieces of jewelry or timepieces.
  • stone fastening on a mount is done by depositing, on part of the peripheral surface of the stone, a metal coating allowing it to be closely secured to the mount by a welding, riveting or a similar method.
  • publication FR 2,042,156 A describes a jewelry stone having a pavilion on which a layer of metal is deposited.
  • This metal layer makes it possible to weld the stone on a mount.
  • such an arrangement has the drawback of not being aesthetically pleasing, since this metallized layer is visible due to the fact that certain incident rays, reflected by an exit interface of the stone situated in the metallized zone, are returned by the stone by total reflection and return the image of the metallized layer.
  • Publication JP 09173115 A describes a technique for fastening a jewelry stone, such as a diamond, on a mount, in which a first layer, for example an alloy containing titanium (Ti), copper (Cu), silver (Ag) and/or zirconium (Zr), is deposited on the diamond, and a second layer of metal is deposited on the mount, for example a gold (Au) alloy.
  • the two layers of metal are next welded together to securely fasten the diamond on the mount.
  • the metal layer is deposited on the pavilion of the diamond, more particularly, at the middle of the pavilion of the diamond and on a surface which is smaller than the total surface of the pavilion.
  • this technique has an aesthetic drawback, the layer of metal being visible when incident rays reflected in the stone at the metallized zone exit through the crown of the stone.
  • Publication WO 00/57743 A2 relates to a system making it possible to crimp a precious stone in a hollow jewelry item.
  • the system includes a device used to create a metal fastening zone subjected to the surface of the precious stone and a connecting device serving to fasten the metal fastening zone on a shell of the hollow jewelry piece.
  • a circumferential part of the surface of the precious stone is metallized and a layer of metal is deposited by electrolysis on the metallized circumferential part of the surface of the precious stone.
  • This fastening belt is formed in a groove hollowed in the stone and at least partially encroaches on the frontal part of the stone (i.e., the crown).
  • Publication WO 2014/030068 A2 relates to a frame that comprises a precious stone, a mounting surface and a brazed joint.
  • the brazed joint is formed from a reactive metal alloy, this alloy allowing the adhesion of certain points on the surface of the precious stone directly to the mounting surface.
  • the fastening techniques described in this publication risk not providing sufficiently reliable or effective maintenance of the stone, and the described brazing method requires high temperatures, generally exceeding 800° C., which consume considerable energy and may potentially damage a delicate mounting surface of a mount for a top-of-the-line piece.
  • the present invention aims to overcome the above drawbacks by proposing a jewelry stone arranged to be able to be fastened on its mount invisibly and a method for fastening the stone on its mount, the obtained fastening being effective, reliable, durable and invisible.
  • the invention relates to a jewelry stone as defined in the preamble, characterized in that said connecting zone is located on part or all of a peripheral sector with a limited width of said pavilion, in which the incident rays on the crown penetrating the stone by an air/stone interface, are either reflected by a first pavilion/air interface on a point of the pavilion lower than said connecting zone or completely reflected by said first pavilion/air interface of said stone in the peripheral sector including said connecting zone, and are refracted to the outside of said stone, behind said pavilion, through at least one second pavilion/air interface of said stone.
  • said peripheral sector is situated on said pavilion near said girdle.
  • Said peripheral sector can preferably include a so-called invisible zone in which no incident ray refracted at the air/crown interface is reflected by the first pavilion/air interface.
  • Said peripheral sector can advantageously include a band extending over 360° around the pavilion. Said band preferably covers a zone corresponding at least approximately to about 20 to 35% of the surface of said pavilion.
  • the metal fastening means can comprise a plurality of metal layers deposited in a sandwich.
  • the plurality of metal layers preferably comprises an inner layer forming a layer of carbide with the stone.
  • said inner layer comprises titanium, tantalum, hafnium or niobium.
  • the plurality of metal layers also preferably comprises an outer layer comprising the same material as that of the mount intended to receive the stone.
  • the outer layer and said mount comprise gold.
  • the plurality of metal layers comprises an intermediate layer forming a diffusion barrier between said inner layer and said outer layer.
  • the intermediate layer can comprise platinum.
  • the metal fastening means are deposited using a PVD method.
  • the invention relates to a fastening method as defined in the preamble, characterized in that said connecting zone is deposited over part or all of a peripheral sector of limited width of said pavilion, in which the incident rays on the crown penetrating the stone via an air/stone interface, are either reflected by a first pavilion/air interface on a point of the pavilion lower than said connecting zone or are completely reflected by said first pavilion/air interface of said stone in the peripheral sector including said connecting zone, and are refracted outside said stone, behind said pavilion, through at least one second pavilion/air interface of said stone.
  • said peripheral sector is advantageously defined at said pavilion near said girdle.
  • a band is deposited in said peripheral sector that covers a zone corresponding to at least approximately 20 to 35% of the surface of said pavilion.
  • the band advantageously covers a zone corresponding to at least approximately 20 to 35% of the surface of said pavilion.
  • the method it is possible to deposit a plurality of metal layers in a sandwich to form the metal fastening means. It is also possible to deposit an inner layer forming a layer of carbide with the stone, this inner layer comprising titanium, tantalum, hafnium or niobium. It is also possible to deposit an outer layer comprising the same material as that of the mount intended to receive the stone before the fastening of said stone.
  • FIG. 1 is an axial sectional view of a stone schematically illustrating the trajectory of light rays penetrating the crown of said stone and returned by the crown after total reflection on the first and second pavilion/air interfaces,
  • FIG. 2 is an axial sectional view of a stone schematically illustrating the trajectory of light rays penetrating the crown of said stone provided with a connecting zone over a limited sector of the pavilion,
  • FIG. 3 is an axial sectional view of a stone schematically illustrating the trajectory of light rays penetrating the crown of said stone provided with a connecting zone in the invisible zone,
  • FIG. 4 is a side view of a stone according to the invention provided with said connecting zone
  • FIG. 5 is a bottom view of a stone according to the invention provided with said connecting zone.
  • the present invention relates to a jewelry stone, which will be referred to hereinafter as “stone” 10 .
  • the stone 10 according to the invention can be natural or synthetic, and may in particular consist of a faceted diamond, but may also consist of an emerald, a sapphire, a ruby or another type of stone.
  • the stone 10 is a round diamond having multiple cut facets 11 .
  • This example embodiment is of course not limiting, and the present invention refers to various shapes of stones.
  • the stone 10 includes a frontal part that is commonly called crown 12 , visible when the stone 10 is fastened on a mount (not shown). It is common for it to be cut so as to have multiple facets 11 .
  • the stone 10 includes a dorsal part, commonly called pavilion 13 , that is defined relative to the crown 12 by an intermediate part, commonly called girdle 14 .
  • the pavilion 13 is generally cut in a point and can also have multiple facets 11 .
  • the pavilion 13 is at least partially hidden when the stone is mounted on its mount.
  • the pavilion 13 is typically used to allow fastening of the stone 10 on a mount such that only the crown 12 is visible, while making sure that the fastening of the stone 10 is as invisible as possible.
  • One aim sought by jewelers is to hide the manner in which the stone 10 is fastened while ensuring that is fastened reliably and with optimal shine or brilliancy of the stone 10 , irrespective of the application, therefore independently of the type of mount, which may for example consist of a timepiece or a piece of jewelry.
  • incident light rays R 1 , R 2 which penetrate the stone 10 through the crown 12 , can undergo one or several total reflections on the stone/air interfaces in the pavilion 13 , such that the incident light is returned through the stone/air interface of the crown 12 and imparts shine and the desired aesthetics to the stone 10 .
  • a ray R 1 that strikes a facet 11 of the crown 12 of the stone 10 at point A 1 , along an angle i 1 , relative to the normal H A1 to the incidence point A 1 of the ray R 1 penetrates the stone 10 and undergoes a refraction phenomenon at the air/stone interface of the crown 12 .
  • the Snell-Descartes law the relationship that connects the refraction index n 1 of the air and the refraction index n 2 of the stone 10 and the incident i 1 and refracted i 2 angles is written:
  • n 1 sin( i 1 ) n 2 sin( i 2 )
  • the refracted ray R′ 1 is deviated by an angle i 2 relative to the normal H A1 , this angle i 2 being smaller than the incident angle i 1 of the incident ray R 1 , since the refraction index n 1 of the air is lower than the refraction index n 2 of the stone 10 .
  • This refracted ray R′ 1 travels inside the stone 10 and strikes the wall of the pavilion 13 , more specifically the first pavilion/air interface, at a point B 1 , on which it undergoes a complete reflection.
  • the refracted ray R′ 1 forms an angle i r relative to the normal H B1 at the point B 1 which is larger than the limit angle i l beyond which there is a total reflection and which obeys the law:
  • I l arcsin( n 1 /n 2 ).
  • the limit angle i l is substantially equal to 24°.
  • the reflected ray R′ 1 along an angle i r at the point B 1 , is next sent onto a second pavilion/air interface point C 1 , where it undergoes a new total reflection, before being returned onto a third crown/air interface at a point D 1 . It undergoes a refraction such that the exit angle i 4 is larger than the incident angle i 3 at the point D 1 .
  • the incident light at the point A 1 of the crown 12 is returned to the point D 1 of the crown 12 in the form of a ray R′′ 1 , such that the stone 10 shines with all its brilliance, when the above conditions are met.
  • a second incident light beam R 2 is shown in FIG. 1 .
  • the beam R 2 penetrates substantially perpendicular to the central range 121 of the crown 12 while propagating in a straight line without undergoing any refraction at the incidence point A 2 . It penetrates the stone 10 and reaches the first pavilion/air interface, where it undergoes a first total reflection at point B 2 , then a second total reflection at point C 2 at the second pavilion/air interface.
  • the light leaves substantially perpendicular to the central range 121 of the crown 12 without undergoing any refraction.
  • the incident light is returned after having followed a more or less complex optical path within the stone 10 .
  • the stone 10 according to the invention is provided with metal fastening means 20 to allow it to be fastened on a mount (not shown).
  • these metal fastening means 20 include a connecting zone 21 situated on part or all of a limited peripheral sector 131 of the pavilion 13 .
  • the metal fastening means 20 do not modify the normal journey of the light, but are positioned in the peripheral sector 131 such that they are made invisible. Indeed, the peripheral sector 131 of the pavilion 13 has particular optical properties that will be explained in the rest of the description.
  • the connecting zone 21 can assume the form of a metal band 22 that extends completely, i.e., over 360°, around the pavilion, as illustrated in FIG. 5 .
  • the band 22 can be situated directly below the girdle 14 .
  • the metal band 22 can be formed by a metal coating or layer that has a limited width relative to the height of the pavilion 13 and extends at least partially over the peripheral sector 131 of the pavilion 13 .
  • the peripheral sector 131 can be partially or completely metallized, depending on the mount.
  • the peripheral sector 131 includes the metal band 22 , which covers a zone corresponding to 20 to 35% of the surface of the pavilion 13 .
  • an incident ray R 3 is sent onto one of the facets 11 of the crown 12 of the stone 10 at an impact point A 3 , close to the girdle 14 .
  • the ray R 3 is sent onto the facet 11 adjacent to the girdle 14 . It penetrates the crown 12 in the form of a refracted ray R′ 3 while coming close to the normal H A3 of the facet 11 at point A 3 and falls on the first pavilion/air interface of the pavilion 13 in the peripheral sector 131 where the metal band 22 is deposited.
  • the ray R′ 3 undergoes a total reflection at point B 3 .
  • the image of the metallized or opaque metal band 22 that is situated in this peripheral sector 131 is not visible at the front of the stone 10 , i.e., an observer will not see the connecting zone 21 of the stone 10 , since the metal band 22 serving as fastening means 20 will then not be visible upon observing the crown 12 .
  • a second ray R 4 shown in FIG. 2 is refracted at an impact point A 4 on the crown 12 , refracted while penetrating the stone 10 in the form of a ray R′ 4 that is reflected on the first pavilion/air interface, below the metal band 22 , at point B 4 . After its total reflection, it strikes the second pavilion/air interface, which is opposite the first pavilion/air interface, at a point C 4 where it undergoes a second total reflection at point C 4 . It is next reflected toward the crown 12 , which it traverses at point D 4 while undergoing refraction. The ray R 4 rejoins, regarding its optical trajectory, the rays R 1 and R 2 of FIG. 1 and returns the incident light while contributing to giving shine to the stone 10 . This ray R 4 not being reflected in the peripheral sector 131 , it is visible by the viewer.
  • the peripheral sector 131 also includes a so-called invisible zone ZI in which an incident ray R 3 refracted at the air/crown interface can only be reflected by the first pavilion/air interface outside said invisible zone ZI. In other words, no ray is reflected in the invisible zone.
  • This invisible zone ZI is situated below the girdle, and its height depends on the height of the girdle, which is typically 2-6% of the diameter of the stone. For example, with a stone 10 having a diameter of 2 mm, the width of the invisible zone of this alternative may be 0.25 mm.
  • any incident ray at the air/crown interface will be reflected at the first pavilion/air interface outside the band 22 .
  • the metal band 22 will not be visible, since no light ray will be able to reach the invisible zone.
  • the connecting zone 21 including the band 22 does not completely cover the peripheral sector 131 .
  • the particular optical properties of the peripheral sector 131 make it possible to deposit the connecting zone 21 on part or all of this peripheral sector 131 , such that they are made invisible for a viewer looking at the stone 10 via the crown 12 . It has been observed in faceted round diamonds that the peripheral sector 131 is situated directly below the girdle 14 and extends over a surface smaller than the total surface of the pavilion 13 .
  • the metal fastening means 20 are deposited on the surface of the stone using a PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) method.
  • PVD Physical Vapor Deposition
  • the use of PVD makes it possible to form the connecting zone 21 in a controlled and precise manner on the surface of the stone.
  • the PVD deposition step can be preceded by a step for cleaning the surface of the stone, as well as, optionally, depositing an adherence layer.
  • the PVD deposition step takes place in a chamber comprising an inert gas, such as argon, at a pressure between 10 ⁇ 4 to 10 ⁇ 2 mbar.
  • the metal fastening means 20 comprise a plurality of metal layers deposited in a sandwich on the surface of the stone.
  • an inner metal layer of titanium (or a titanium-based alloy) is deposited first on the stone, followed by an intermediate layer made from platinum (or a platinum-based alloy), then an outer layer of gold (or a gold-based alloy).
  • the layer of titanium which preferably has a thickness of 40-500 nm, plays an adherence role, the titanium forming a layer of carbide with the stone.
  • Other materials capable of forming a carbide layer with the stone can alternatively be used in place of titanium as inner layer.
  • the outer layer of gold which preferably has a thickness of 100-2000 nm, allows fastening to a gold mount by welding or by thermocompression, as described below.
  • the platinum layer which preferably has a thickness of 60-500 nm, forms a diffusion barrier between the layer of titanium and the layer of gold, but other materials can also be used as intermediate layers.
  • Other layers aside from those that have been mentioned may also be present in the fastening means 20 .
  • a chemical cleaning step can take place to eliminate any metal material present in unwanted locations in order to ensure that the connecting zone 21 is positioned correctly and is not discernible, as explained in detail above.
  • the stone including the metal fastening means 20 can be fastened to a corresponding mount using different techniques, but is preferably fastened by thermocompression or welding.
  • a metal layer is also formed by a PVD method on the part of the surface of the mount intended to receive the stone (and in particular the metal fastening means 20 ).
  • the metal layer deposited on the mount is preferably also made from gold. This deposition of a metal layer on the mount can also be preceded by a step for cleaning the surface of the mount in question.
  • the stone is fastened to the mount by thermocompression, and the metal fastening means 20 comprising a gold outer layer are compressed against a gold layer deposited on the mount.
  • a compression machine operating at a force of 2-20 kg/mm 2 and at a temperature of 100-600° C. (or more preferably 200-450° C.) for a duration from 20 seconds to 60 minutes, is used for this step.
  • the stone is fastened to the mount by a welding machine under a force of 5-50 g/mm 2 and a temperature of 280-350° C. for a duration from 1 second to 5 minutes.
  • a pre-form of an appropriate material and having an appropriate shape for example, a conical ring made from gold-tin
  • the mount preferably has a gold layer deposited beforehand on its surface. A chemical cleaning step can take place after the welding to eliminate any remaining debris.
  • the metal band 22 is not discernible because it is found in the invisible zone ZI just below the girdle, or all of the incident rays R 3 that are reflected by the peripheral sector 131 , at a first pavilion/air interface, in which the metal band 22 is situated, are returned on a second pavilion/air interface under an angle smaller than the total reflection limit angle i l , such that they are refracted and evacuated at the rear of the pavilion 13 of the stone 10 without being seen.
  • the invention makes it possible to achieve the desired aims, i.e., making the connecting zone 21 of the stone 10 invisible when it is fastened to its mount.
  • Depositing metal fastening means 20 on the pavilion using a PVD method allows the formation of a metal connecting zone 21 with a controlled size and precise position.
  • this connecting zone 21 extends like a metal band 22 over 360° around the pavilion, which allows reliable and robust fastening to a mount, even if the stone is small and the band 22 has a relatively thin width.
  • the stone including the metal fastening means 20 can advantageously be fastened to the mount according to conditions where the temperatures do not exceed 600° C., and more preferably do not exceed 450° C.

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US15/531,621 2014-12-02 2015-11-30 Jewellery stone, in particular facetted diamond and method for mounting same on a mount Abandoned US20180042345A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CH18562014 2014-12-02
CH01856/14 2014-12-02
PCT/CH2015/000175 WO2016086323A1 (fr) 2014-12-02 2015-11-30 Pierre de bijouterie, notamment diamant facette et son procede de montage sur un support

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US20180042345A1 true US20180042345A1 (en) 2018-02-15

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US (1) US20180042345A1 (de)
EP (1) EP3226713B1 (de)
JP (1) JP6807839B2 (de)
CN (1) CN107105839B (de)
WO (1) WO2016086323A1 (de)

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US20150320153A1 (en) * 2014-05-12 2015-11-12 Yoshihiko Kodama Circular cut diamond
US20180042344A1 (en) * 2016-08-15 2018-02-15 Idd Limited Gemstone
WO2019159911A1 (ja) * 2018-02-13 2019-08-22 泰法 乾 装飾品が揺動可能な装身具
WO2019163774A1 (ja) * 2018-02-20 2019-08-29 乾 博美 装身具

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CN107105839B (zh) 2020-08-14
EP3226713A1 (de) 2017-10-11
JP6807839B2 (ja) 2021-01-06
CN107105839A (zh) 2017-08-29
EP3226713B1 (de) 2022-08-24
JP2017536183A (ja) 2017-12-07

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