US20060123846A1 - Method for setting a stone in a metal element - Google Patents

Method for setting a stone in a metal element Download PDF

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Publication number
US20060123846A1
US20060123846A1 US10/560,625 US56062505A US2006123846A1 US 20060123846 A1 US20060123846 A1 US 20060123846A1 US 56062505 A US56062505 A US 56062505A US 2006123846 A1 US2006123846 A1 US 2006123846A1
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United States
Prior art keywords
tool
metal
stone
piece
tip
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Abandoned
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US10/560,625
Inventor
Pierre Espinosa
Grigor Topalian
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LYON SERTI
Original Assignee
LYON SERTI
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
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Assigned to LYON SERTI reassignment LYON SERTI ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST (SEE DOCUMENT FOR DETAILS). Assignors: ESPINOSA, PIERRE, TOPALIAN, GRIGOR
Publication of US20060123846A1 publication Critical patent/US20060123846A1/en
Abandoned legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/043—Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method for setting a stone in a metal part.
  • an operator applies a graver obliquely to the surface of a piece of metal to deform it. This causes the metal to deform to produce a collar that covers the periphery of the stone and immobilizes it in the metal element.
  • Another drawback with this method is that it can be used to set stones only in metals such as gold or silver, that is metals having a certain ductility. If instead the method is applied to hard metals, such as titanium, it is found that the action of the graver acting obliquely to the surface of the piece of metal does not produce a collar because the metal breaks and forms a chip.
  • Another drawback with the current setting method has to do with the fact that, in the case of pave settings, meaning many stones set side by side over the surface of a piece of jewelry or a watch, the area of metal bounded by the stones appears dull and does not contribute to setting off the stones.
  • this method for setting at least one stone having a girdle in a piece of metal comprising the following steps:
  • At least one hole is pierced in the piece of metal for receiving the stone
  • a tool is applied perpendicularly to the surface of the piece of metal and close to the periphery of each hole, the end of said tool having a tip for pushing back a lip of metal onto the girdle of the stone, and forming at least one indentation comprising at least one light-reflecting facet.
  • the method according to the invention therefore makes it possible to set pieces in an extremely hard metal because of the perpendicular action of a tool in deforming the metal and forming a lip.
  • the indentation forming a lip has at least one facet, giving the setting according to the invention additional visual appeal.
  • the tool is applied manually.
  • the tool is applied mechanically.
  • the invention also relates to a tool for carrying out the method, having at its end at least one surface ending in a tip.
  • the tool may take:
  • the tool has at its end a conical form ending in a tip
  • the tool has at its end a tetrahedral form ending in a tip;
  • the tool has at its end several facets converging toward a tip;
  • the tool has a radius of 0.2 to 0.5 mm.
  • the invention also relates to the product such as a jewel or timekeeper comprising a piece of metal on which is placed at least one stone having a girdle, said product being characterized in that it exhibits, around at least one stone, at least one indentation having a facet impressed into the surface of the piece of metal, forming a lip that covers the girdle of the stone.
  • the entire surface of the piece of metal bounded by two or more stones is impressed with indentations.
  • FIGS. 1-3 show the different steps in carrying out this method
  • FIG. 4 is a top view of a product produced by this method.
  • FIGS. 5-8 show several possible embodiments of a tool for carrying out the method according to the invention.
  • FIG. 1 shows, in section, a piece of metal 1 with a hole 2 as is well known in setting techniques.
  • This hole 2 comprises, near the surface of the piece of metal 1 , a conical seat 3 and a cylindrical part 3 .
  • the conical seat 3 on which the stone is to rest is a very short distance, perhaps 0.1 to 0.2 millimeters, away from the surface of the piece of metal 1 .
  • FIG. 2 shows the stone 5 placed in the hole 2 before setting has commenced.
  • FIG. 2 shows a tool 6 approaching in a direction perpendicular to the surface of the piece of metal 1 .
  • the tool 6 illustrated has a conical end terminating in a tip 12 .
  • the tool can be seen to be applied to the surface of the piece of metal 1 .
  • the material is pressed out away from the tip of the tool 6 and the material constituting the piece of metal 1 is therefore displaced to form a lip 8 over the girdle 9 of the stone 5 as it sits in the hole.
  • This lip. 8 therefore serves to immobilize the stone 5 in its hole.
  • the next step in the method is to use the tool 6 to form new indentations 11 in that surface of the piece of metal 1 which is bounded by the stones 5 .
  • this shows the multiple indentations 11 produced in the inter-stone surfaces.
  • these indentations 11 have facets—four facets in this case.
  • the indentations 11 situated adjacent to the stones hold the stones in place, while the function of the other indentations 11 is to reflect the light.
  • FIGS. 5-8 show several embodiments of the tool. These embodiments, though non-restrictive, nonetheless all have the common feature that the end of the tool consists of a tip 12 at its end. This tip 12 , applied perpendicularly to the surface of the metal, displaces even the hardest metal to form a lip 8 .
  • FIG. 5 shows a tool with a pyramidal end.
  • FIG. 6 shows a tool with a tetrahedral end.
  • FIG. 7 shows a tool with a conical end.
  • FIG. 8 shows a tool whose end has four facets.
  • the process thus described has many advantages. It can be used to set stones in an extremely hard metal, such as titanium, because the tool used to deform the metal and create a lip over the girdle of the stone acts perpendicularly to the surface of the piece of metal that is to hold the stones.
  • the fact that the tool has an end which will give the indentation a smooth surface procures an additional effect in that the indentation that holds the stone in place also reflects the light.
  • Another advantage of the method according to the invention is that it can be used to set stones in an internal surface or in an uneven surface.
  • the surface set by the method according to the invention has a continuous appearance which causes the set stones to appear as if aligned in rows and columns.
  • the method is particularly suitable for setting in hard metals such as titanium, it can also be used in metals such as gold, silver or steel.

Landscapes

  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Processing Of Stones Or Stones Resemblance Materials (AREA)
  • Physical Vapour Deposition (AREA)
  • Inorganic Insulating Materials (AREA)
  • Ceramic Products (AREA)
  • Die Bonding (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for setting a girdle (9) in a piece of metal (1), said method comprising the following steps: at least one hole (2) is pierced in the piece of metal (1) for receiving the stone, a stone (5) is placed in each hole (2), a tool (6) is applied perpendicularly to the surface of the piece of metal and close to the periphery of each hole (2), the end of said tool (6) having a tip for pushing back a lip (8) of metal onto the girdle (9) of the stone, and forming at least one imprint comprising at least one light-reflecting

Description

  • The present invention relates to a method for setting a stone in a metal part.
  • In the jewelry and horological field, the setting of precious stones in metal parts is well known.
  • In one conventional method, an operator applies a graver obliquely to the surface of a piece of metal to deform it. This causes the metal to deform to produce a collar that covers the periphery of the stone and immobilizes it in the metal element.
  • This method is satisfactory except for the fact that the deformation of the metal can cause burring, which detracts from the smoothness of the resulting piece of jewelry.
  • Another drawback with this method is that it can be used to set stones only in metals such as gold or silver, that is metals having a certain ductility. If instead the method is applied to hard metals, such as titanium, it is found that the action of the graver acting obliquely to the surface of the piece of metal does not produce a collar because the metal breaks and forms a chip.
  • Another drawback with the current setting method has to do with the fact that, in the case of pave settings, meaning many stones set side by side over the surface of a piece of jewelry or a watch, the area of metal bounded by the stones appears dull and does not contribute to setting off the stones.
  • It is therefore an object of the invention to provide a method for setting stones in a piece of hard metal such as titanium.
  • It is another object of the invention to provide a method of setting that displays the stones to advantage.
  • According to the invention, this method for setting at least one stone having a girdle in a piece of metal, said method comprising the following steps:
  • at least one hole is pierced in the piece of metal for receiving the stone,
  • a stone is placed in each hole,
  • a tool is applied perpendicularly to the surface of the piece of metal and close to the periphery of each hole, the end of said tool having a tip for pushing back a lip of metal onto the girdle of the stone, and forming at least one indentation comprising at least one light-reflecting facet.
  • The method according to the invention therefore makes it possible to set pieces in an extremely hard metal because of the perpendicular action of a tool in deforming the metal and forming a lip. What is more, the indentation forming a lip has at least one facet, giving the setting according to the invention additional visual appeal.
  • In one possible version the tool is applied manually.
  • In another possible version the tool is applied mechanically.
  • The invention also relates to a tool for carrying out the method, having at its end at least one surface ending in a tip.
  • In accordance with several shapes which the tool may take:
  • the tool has at its end a conical form ending in a tip;
  • the tool has at its end a tetrahedral form ending in a tip;
  • the tool has at its end several facets converging toward a tip;
  • the tool has a radius of 0.2 to 0.5 mm.
  • The invention also relates to the product such as a jewel or timekeeper comprising a piece of metal on which is placed at least one stone having a girdle, said product being characterized in that it exhibits, around at least one stone, at least one indentation having a facet impressed into the surface of the piece of metal, forming a lip that covers the girdle of the stone.
  • Preferably the entire surface of the piece of metal bounded by two or more stones is impressed with indentations.
  • In order that it may be understood clearly, the invention is described with reference to the accompanying drawing showing, by way of non-restrictive example, a possible way of carrying out the method of the invention.
  • FIGS. 1-3 show the different steps in carrying out this method,
  • FIG. 4 is a top view of a product produced by this method, and
  • FIGS. 5-8 show several possible embodiments of a tool for carrying out the method according to the invention.
  • FIG. 1 shows, in section, a piece of metal 1 with a hole 2 as is well known in setting techniques. This hole 2 comprises, near the surface of the piece of metal 1, a conical seat 3 and a cylindrical part 3. As can be seen, the conical seat 3 on which the stone is to rest is a very short distance, perhaps 0.1 to 0.2 millimeters, away from the surface of the piece of metal 1.
  • FIG. 2 shows the stone 5 placed in the hole 2 before setting has commenced. FIG. 2 shows a tool 6 approaching in a direction perpendicular to the surface of the piece of metal 1. In FIG. 2, the tool 6 illustrated has a conical end terminating in a tip 12.
  • Turning to FIG. 3, the tool can be seen to be applied to the surface of the piece of metal 1. During this application of the tool, the material is pressed out away from the tip of the tool 6 and the material constituting the piece of metal 1 is therefore displaced to form a lip 8 over the girdle 9 of the stone 5 as it sits in the hole. This lip. 8 therefore serves to immobilize the stone 5 in its hole.
  • The next step in the method is to use the tool 6 to form new indentations 11 in that surface of the piece of metal 1 which is bounded by the stones 5.
  • Referring to FIG. 4, this shows the multiple indentations 11 produced in the inter-stone surfaces. In the illustrative embodiment depicted, these indentations 11 have facets—four facets in this case. The indentations 11 situated adjacent to the stones hold the stones in place, while the function of the other indentations 11 is to reflect the light.
  • FIGS. 5-8 show several embodiments of the tool. These embodiments, though non-restrictive, nonetheless all have the common feature that the end of the tool consists of a tip 12 at its end. This tip 12, applied perpendicularly to the surface of the metal, displaces even the hardest metal to form a lip 8.
  • FIG. 5 shows a tool with a pyramidal end.
  • FIG. 6 shows a tool with a tetrahedral end.
  • FIG. 7 shows a tool with a conical end.
  • FIG. 8 shows a tool whose end has four facets.
  • The process thus described has many advantages. It can be used to set stones in an extremely hard metal, such as titanium, because the tool used to deform the metal and create a lip over the girdle of the stone acts perpendicularly to the surface of the piece of metal that is to hold the stones.
  • Moreover, the fact that the tool has an end which will give the indentation a smooth surface procures an additional effect in that the indentation that holds the stone in place also reflects the light.
  • Adding more indentations of this kind between the stones creates a reflective area between the stones which displays their luminosity to advantage. The dull area that occurs in pave settings created by conventional techniques disappears in the invention and is replaced by a light-reflecting area.
  • Finally, the action of the tool produces no burring, with the result that the jewel or timekeeper set in this manner will not snag or catch.
  • Another advantage of the method according to the invention is that it can be used to set stones in an internal surface or in an uneven surface.
  • Lastly, the surface set by the method according to the invention has a continuous appearance which causes the set stones to appear as if aligned in rows and columns.
  • It goes without saying that the invention is not limited to the embodiment described above by way of example. On the contrary, it encompasses all embodiments of the invention.
  • For example, other shapes of tools may be envisaged. It is obvious of course that all types of precious, semiprecious or synthetic stone can be set by this method.
  • It will also be understood that, though the method is particularly suitable for setting in hard metals such as titanium, it can also be used in metals such as gold, silver or steel.

Claims (10)

1. A method for setting at least one stone having a girdle in a piece of metal, said method comprising:
piercing at least one hole in the piece of metal for receiving the stone,
placing a stone in each hole,
applying a tool perpendicularly to a surface of the piece of metal and close to a periphery of each hole, an end of said tool having a tip for pushing back a lip of metal onto the girdle of the stone, and forming at least one indentation comprising at least one light-reflecting facet.
2. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the tool is applied manually.
3. The method as claimed in claim 2, wherein the tool is applied mechanically.
4. A tool for carrying out the method as claimed in claims 1, comprising at its end at least one convergent surface ending in a tip.
5. The tool as claimed in claim 4, wherein the tool has at the end a conical form ending in the tip.
6. The tool as claimed in claim 4, wherein the tool has at the end a tetrahedral form ending in the tip.
7. The tool as claimed in claim 4, wherein the tool has at the end several facets converging toward the tip.
8. The tool as claimed in claims 4, wherein the tip of the tool has a radius of 0.2 to 0.5 mm.
9. A product such as a jewel or timekeeper comprising a piece of metal on which is placed at least one stone having a girdle, the product comprising, around at least one stone, at least one indentation having a facet impressed into a surface of the piece of metal, forming a lip that covers the girdle of the stone.
10. The product as claimed in claim 9, wherein an entire surface of the piece of metal bounded by two or more stones is impressed with indentations.
US10/560,625 2003-06-11 2004-06-08 Method for setting a stone in a metal element Abandoned US20060123846A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR03/07013 2003-06-11
FR0307013A FR2855947B1 (en) 2003-06-11 2003-06-11 METHOD FOR CRIMPING A STONE IN A METAL ELEMENT
PCT/FR2004/001419 WO2004110200A2 (en) 2003-06-11 2004-06-08 Method for setting a stone in a metal element

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US20060123846A1 true US20060123846A1 (en) 2006-06-15

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US (1) US20060123846A1 (en)
EP (1) EP1631163B1 (en)
JP (1) JP4842808B2 (en)
CN (1) CN1802113A (en)
AT (1) ATE549954T1 (en)
AU (1) AU2004246840B2 (en)
CA (1) CA2527818C (en)
EA (1) EA007233B1 (en)
ES (1) ES2384171T3 (en)
FR (1) FR2855947B1 (en)
PT (1) PT1631163E (en)
UA (1) UA87457C2 (en)
WO (1) WO2004110200A2 (en)
ZA (1) ZA200509862B (en)

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20070095105A1 (en) * 2005-10-28 2007-05-03 Harout Dagesian Jewelry having a pave mounted gem stone
US20070151293A1 (en) * 2003-12-12 2007-07-05 Manfred Essich Article of jewellery with an element of ornamentation and a method and a tool for manufacturing such an article of jewellery
WO2012107209A1 (en) * 2011-02-08 2012-08-16 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Jewelry article having a jewel element and method for producing such a jewelry article
US9820538B2 (en) 2013-02-08 2017-11-21 Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior Sa Timepiece part, and method for producing such a timepiece part

Families Citing this family (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2010005346A (en) * 2008-06-30 2010-01-14 Tsutsumi Jewely Co Ltd Gem mounting structure of ornament
JP2010119699A (en) * 2008-11-20 2010-06-03 Tsutsumi Jewely Co Ltd Gem mounting structure of ornament
CN102845944B (en) * 2012-08-29 2015-08-19 恒信玺利实业股份有限公司 A kind of method for embedding of gem ornament
CN107230565A (en) * 2017-06-29 2017-10-03 宁波公牛电器有限公司 A kind of mosaic texture and switch and socket
JP2021115075A (en) * 2020-01-22 2021-08-10 株式会社アズホーム Jewelry printing plate

Citations (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US755654A (en) * 1903-06-05 1904-03-29 Leo Guild Jewel-setting.
US4648248A (en) * 1985-07-19 1987-03-10 Yves Raymond Precious stone setting
US5475910A (en) * 1993-09-28 1995-12-19 Yamamoto; Katsumi Jewel setting method
US6668584B1 (en) * 2002-05-07 2003-12-30 Giuliano Tosti Housing for setting a stone in jewelry

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US1449158A (en) * 1919-11-12 1923-03-20 Arch Crown Mfg Co Gem setting
US1600142A (en) * 1924-11-21 1926-09-14 Rothenberg Marco Jeweler's tool
US1826567A (en) * 1930-01-07 1931-10-06 Jacob H Payer Jewel setting tool
US3548471A (en) * 1968-06-10 1970-12-22 Hans K Biller Gem position fixing tool
FR2620911B1 (en) * 1987-09-30 1990-01-05 Favre Diamants Joaillerie Henr CRIMPING SUPPORT FOR PRECIOUS, FINE, ORNAMENTAL STONE, ESPECIALLY DIAMOND; KITTEN COMPRISING SUCH A STONE AND SUCH A CRIMPING SUPPORT; METHOD AND TOOL FOR SHAPING SUCH A SUPPORT; SHAPING APPARATUS COMPRISING SUCH A TOOL; CRIMPING INSTALLATION COMPRISING SUCH A DEVICE
JPH0617471Y2 (en) * 1989-09-04 1994-05-11 住友ゴム工業株式会社 Play equipment
JP3367733B2 (en) * 1994-02-07 2003-01-20 克美 山本 How to attach jewelry
JPH0788004A (en) * 1993-09-28 1995-04-04 Katsumi Yamamoto Means to set gem and glasses with gem set by this means
JPH0856717A (en) * 1994-08-19 1996-03-05 Katsumi Yamamoto Fitting method of gem
JPH08299037A (en) * 1995-05-02 1996-11-19 Hiroyoshi Yamaura Finger ring
FR2792508B1 (en) * 1999-04-21 2001-07-27 Clerc Sa PROCESS FOR CRIMPING SOFT GRAIN STONES IN A HARD METAL PART
JP2001327311A (en) * 2000-05-25 2001-11-27 Kissho Seimitsu Yugenkoshi Method for embedding jewel in stainless steel pedestal

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US755654A (en) * 1903-06-05 1904-03-29 Leo Guild Jewel-setting.
US4648248A (en) * 1985-07-19 1987-03-10 Yves Raymond Precious stone setting
US5475910A (en) * 1993-09-28 1995-12-19 Yamamoto; Katsumi Jewel setting method
US6668584B1 (en) * 2002-05-07 2003-12-30 Giuliano Tosti Housing for setting a stone in jewelry

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20070151293A1 (en) * 2003-12-12 2007-07-05 Manfred Essich Article of jewellery with an element of ornamentation and a method and a tool for manufacturing such an article of jewellery
US20070095105A1 (en) * 2005-10-28 2007-05-03 Harout Dagesian Jewelry having a pave mounted gem stone
WO2012107209A1 (en) * 2011-02-08 2012-08-16 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Jewelry article having a jewel element and method for producing such a jewelry article
US9820538B2 (en) 2013-02-08 2017-11-21 Les Ateliers Horlogers Dior Sa Timepiece part, and method for producing such a timepiece part

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EA007233B1 (en) 2006-08-25
WO2004110200A2 (en) 2004-12-23
ES2384171T3 (en) 2012-07-02
JP2006527043A (en) 2006-11-30
ZA200509862B (en) 2006-12-27
CN1802113A (en) 2006-07-12
CA2527818A1 (en) 2004-12-23
AU2004246840A1 (en) 2004-12-23
EA200501939A1 (en) 2006-04-28
CA2527818C (en) 2013-04-16
PT1631163E (en) 2012-06-20
FR2855947A1 (en) 2004-12-17
EP1631163A2 (en) 2006-03-08
JP4842808B2 (en) 2011-12-21
UA87457C2 (en) 2009-07-27
ATE549954T1 (en) 2012-04-15
WO2004110200A3 (en) 2005-03-24
EP1631163B1 (en) 2012-03-21
AU2004246840B2 (en) 2009-02-19
FR2855947B1 (en) 2005-07-22

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AS Assignment

Owner name: LYON SERTI, FRANCE

Free format text: ASSIGNMENT OF ASSIGNORS INTEREST;ASSIGNORS:ESPINOSA, PIERRE;TOPALIAN, GRIGOR;REEL/FRAME:017381/0566

Effective date: 20051207

STCB Information on status: application discontinuation

Free format text: ABANDONED -- FAILURE TO RESPOND TO AN OFFICE ACTION